The ceiling in a house is its most important element. This is not only a building divider into floors, but also a floor for the second floor, which often experiences heavy loads. Therefore, the overlap should be light on one side, like the other parts frame house, and on the other hand – quite reliable.
Required qualities of this element
What to pay attention to when building a floor for a frame house? What qualities should it have?
- Ease. Since frame houses are considered light buildings, a light foundation is placed under them. To reduce the load on the foundation, the ceiling is also made lightweight. Wood is traditionally considered the main material for such houses. Better for frame construction choose coniferous species, since timber or boards are made of coniferous species less susceptible to bending in places where force is applied to them.
- Rigidity. The ceiling structure must be rigid. Its deformations, bends, deflections, etc. are not allowed. It is to improve the rigidity parameters that the boards used in construction are placed with an edge.
- Strength. If it is assumed that the weight of the second floor of a frame building will be sufficiently large, Special attention emphasis should be placed on strength. It is often necessary to use not just timber, but glued timber. It has the necessary margin of safety, so it is preferable. If you want to use a board, use elements from three connected boards. If you compare the strength of three connected boards and one piece of timber of the same thickness, then the structure of the boards will be more durable.
Do not forget that the joists for the floor of the second floor must be reinforced, and mesh or reinforcement must be laid in the screed. This will reduce the deformation of the floor. Boards or timber must be processed. If you buy timber for the floor that has already been processed thin layer wax, you must be extremely careful when installing them. Place something over the treated wood if you need to walk on it. This will preserve the treatment from abrasion, and you will not slip on a rather slippery surface.
Construction methods: what options are there
There are several types of floors that are suitable for a frame house. They differ from the material from which they are created, and from the design itself. Let's consider all the methods.
- Most often used for floor construction solid timber with oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing. Glued laminated timber, which is more durable, can also be used.
- The second way to make floors is to use an I-beam made of wood with OSB sheathing.
- You can use a wooden prefabricated truss, which is also sheathed with OSB.
- “Sandwich” panels, which are complemented by strapping made of calibrated timber, have become very popular due to the lightness of the device.
- In addition to wood, you can use metal beams cold rolled bent profile, which in its parameters is an order of magnitude stronger than wood.
- Another way to use metal is to install floors from a prefabricated metal truss based on a bent profile.
All these methods have both their pros and cons.
Step by step creation
So, where to start construction? First of all, you should pay attention to the harness. The strapping is the platform on which the boards or beams for the ceiling will be laid. During the installation of strapping in top beam we make so-called nests. It is in them that the timber from the ceiling will be laid.
If according to your plan there is a staircase to the second floor, you need to mark its location. Using timber or joined boards, we make a frame for the floor, going around the opening under the stairs. Connecting metal corners, which impart rigidity to the connection. It is believed that the use of self-tapping screws is inferior in reliability to connections with nails, but the use of self-tapping screws saves time. So, using nails and corners, we securely attach the floor beam to the top frame.
We waterproof the resulting floor frame in the house on both sides, for which we use either a film or a membrane.
Since when using a two-story house, the issue of sound insulation is acute, it is necessary to use a sound-, heat-, and waterproofing polymer. At the moment, this is the most modern material for flooring, and the thinnest.
If you want to improve the thermal insulation between floors of a frame building, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but this is not always financially sound.
The surface of the floor and ceiling is formed chipboard sheets or OSB, which are laid on logs. If possible, the joists should also go along the top trim. Flooring from OSB boards or fiberboard must be at least 2 cm thick. They are screwed on with self-tapping screws.
If you don’t want to bother with frame construction of floors in your house, pay attention to SIP panels. The panels are already finished design, which consists of OSB-3 on both sides, and inside contains polystyrene foam insulation.
In frame construction, SIP panels are used as walls, but they can also be used as floors. These are special reinforced panels with an increased threshold of rigidity and strength.
Also don't forget that concrete screed enhances sound transmission in the house, so it is better not to use it for the second floor of a frame building. In this regard, porous substances, such as expanded clay, are much better at preventing the propagation of sounds.
K category: Walls
Frame walls and ceilings
The walls of a house can perform both enclosing and load-bearing functions, or both enclosing and load-bearing functions at the same time. For example, in the house frame structure performs load-bearing functions wooden frame, and enclosing - filling (insulation and sheathing). In a cobblestone house, the walls perform load-bearing and enclosing functions at the same time and, by design, are frameless. Such walls can be single-layer, consisting only of beams, or layered, having cladding on the outer and inner sides or only on one side.
Rice. 1. Plan for tying and installing frame racks: 1 - tying from bars with a section of 50X100 mm along the foundation base; 2, 3 and 4 - racks, respectively, from two bars with a cross-section of 50X150 mm (or one bar with a cross-section of 100X150 mm), from a bar with a cross-section of 50X100 mm, from two bars with a cross-section of 50X100 mm
At individual construction In frame houses, local materials are often used as filler: sawdust, adobe, reeds, etc. It is difficult to prepare such filler. It is easier to use mineral wool slabs or mineral wool mats in a roll as insulation.
In a floor-by-floor solution, the frame of the first floor is installed first, and then the second (attic).
The frame of the first floor consists of bars of the lower and upper trim, racks, crossbars and struts. First, along the perimeter of the brick plinth, we lay out the bars of the lower trim with a section of 50X 100 mm. If the length of the bars within the straight sections is insufficient, they need to be extended end-to-end. We check the geometric dimensions of the harness ( linear dimensions straight sections and right angles at the junctions and intersections of straight sections) and with a pencil, taking into account overall dimensions window boxes and the available assortment of lumber, we mark on the bars the installation sites for the racks (Fig. 1). If the joint of the strapping bars coincides with the installation location of the rack, then it should be moved into the space between the racks. Then we lay the strapping on a layer of waterproofing (2 or 3 layers of roofing felt laid on top of the plinth) and fasten it with nails measuring 4X100 mm to the wooden liners of the brick plinth. In corners and joints, nails must be driven in obliquely.
Racks located along the coordinate axes with letter designation(axes A, B, C), take the load from the beams interfloor ceiling and the weight of the attic. Therefore they cross section must be at least 50 X 100 mm. The distance between the rafters of the attic frame also depends on the accepted distance between the racks (the pitch of the racks), since the rafters rest on the interfloor beam, which, in turn, is located above the racks of the first floor frame.
Accepted Constructive decisions The frame of the house is also determined by the assortment of lumber. For example, if the width of the window block is 1170 mm and the height is 1460 mm, then the clear distance between the posts must be at least 1190 mm. Window block must fit freely between the posts. It is recommended to fill the gap at the junction of the frame and the racks with a heat-insulating gasket.
The accepted pitch of the racks also determines the pitch of the rafters of the attic frame and the size of the lumber from which this frame should be made. In our case, these are boards 130...150 mm wide and 50 mm thick. If you use window blocks with a width of 1470 mm, then the distance between the frame posts in the axes will be 1500 mm. With this step, the posts and rafters may not be sufficient load bearing capacity interfloor beams that take the load from the weight of the attic. Then each interfloor beam, consisting of a board and two cranial bars, must be replaced with a beam consisting of two boards 150 mm high and 80 mm wide (two boards with a section of 150X40 mm).
For stability of the stand with outside we fasten (embroider) with inclined contractions from boards 25...30 mm thick. Four corner posts and two at the junction points interior walls The external ones have a cross-section of 100X X 150 mm (two bars of 50 X 150 mm, connected with nails), six racks - a cross-section of 100X100 mm (two bars of a cross-section of 50X 100 mm, connected with nails), the remaining racks - a cross-section of 50X 100 mm. The top of all installed racks must be at the same mark (check using the cord). On top of five racks located along axis A and four racks located along axis 1, we lay and secure one lower beam of the upper trim with a section of 50 X 100 mm (Fig. 2). We attach struts between the posts (Fig. 3), and in places window openings- additional racks (over-window and under-window).
Now we install the racks of the frame of the inner wall, first along axis B, then along axis 3, then along axis A. Between the racks we place temporary contractions, crossbars, top trim and struts.
It is convenient to fasten the posts to the bottom of the harness with metal pins with a diameter of 8...10 mm (Fig. 4). The diameter of the socket for the pin in the harness should be 1...2 mm less than the diameter of the pin. The crossbar is connected to the post with two nails, and from the outside of the house the nail should be driven obliquely through the crossbar into the post, and from the inside, on the contrary, through the post into the crossbar (Fig. 25). This fastening prevents the crossbar from moving during the outer cladding of the house.
The frame, consisting of racks and frames (upper and lower), is not a rigid structure and needs to be installed additional elements- struts or braces. The brace is supported at one end into the lower frame, and at the other end into the height of the rack. The lower end of the brace is fixed to the post at the point where it mates with the lower frame, and the upper end is fixed to the upper part of the adjacent post at the place where it mates with the top frame. The braces and braces are placed so that there is one, or preferably two, triangles along each wall.
Rice. 2. Schemes of placement and fastening of the upper trim: a - along the frame racks outer wall; b - on the rack connecting the frames of the outer and inner walls; 1 - block of upper trim; 2- nail; 3 - joint of the lower row of bars of the upper trim; 4- stand on which the bars of the 2nd row of the upper trim are joined; 5 - corner post
Rice. 3. Scheme of fastening the strut between the posts: 1 - two bars of the upper trim; 2 - strut; 3 - nail; 4 - block of the lower trim; 5 - stand
Rice. 4. Scheme of fastening the rack to the lower frame: 1- rack; 2 - metal pin; 3-marking the end of the rack; 4 - socket; 5 - bottom harness
Rice. 5. Scheme of fastening the crossbar to the rack: 1 - rack; 2 - nail; 3- spacer
The frames of each of the walls of the house are not the same. The wall along axis A has two windows and a door (Fig. 6, a). Window and door frames placed between the frame posts and an additional strut is installed. Crossbars and intermediate posts are placed above and below window openings. It should be remembered that the frame posts of this wall and top harness carry the load from the weight of the attic through the beams of the interfloor floor. The wall along axis 1 is an end wall and has three windows (Fig. 6). In accordance with the width of the windows, racks, crossbars and other elements are placed.
The wall along axis 3 has one window opening that is not adjacent to its edge (Fig. 7, a), which makes it possible to install struts along the edges of the frame. The wall along axis B is blank, that is, it has no openings, which also makes it possible to place struts along the edges of its frame (Fig. 7, b).
First, we install the frame elements along axis 1, then along axis B (Fig. 28), then along axis 3. After this, we place the second beam of the upper trim so that it overlaps the joint of the bottom row and lies on the nearest rack, consisting of two beams. We fasten the bars of the upper trim with nails measuring 4X 100. We hammer them in after 20...25 cm.
Two bars of the upper trim, each with a cross-section of 50 X 100 mm, can be replaced with one bar with a cross-section of 100 X 100 mm. Such bars are spliced along the length of half a tree. The joint is placed above the stand. The upper surfaces of the mating bars must be located in the same plane.
The rigidity of the external wall frame is ensured by reliable fastening of the struts. We place the strut blank from the outside to the mating corners of the posts and frames (upper and lower), located diagonally, and mark the junction of its upper end. We cut off the end of the upper end of the workpiece and place it in place. At this time, the lower end of the workpiece should touch the angle at which the stand meets the lower frame. In this position of the workpiece, on the inside of the house we mark its lower end, that is, we apply a vertical line to the workpiece and horizontal line along the plane of connection of the strut to the rack and the lower trim. After this, remove the workpiece. We cut off its lower end along the marking lines. We install the strut in place (its ends should be tightly adjacent to the mating elements) and secure it with nails.
Rice. 6. Design of external wall frames along axes A(a) and 1(6): 1, 3 and 4 - corner, sill and above-window posts; 2 and 5 - window sill and over-window crossbars; 6 and 7 - joints of bars of the 2nd and 1st rows of the top trim; 8 - strut; O - window opening; D - doorway
Rice. 7. Schemes of frames of external walls along axes 3(a) and 6(6)
Rice. 8. Frame elements of external (a) and internal (b) walls: 1 and 6 - upper frames of external and internal walls; 2 - corner post; 3 and 5 - racks of the internal wall; 4- brace
We proceed to the installation of the interfloor ceiling (Fig. 9). It consists of beams, floors, false ceilings, insulation and waterproofing. The main load-bearing functions are performed by beams (Fig. 10). We make them from boards with a section of 50 X 150 mm for a floor load of up to 200 kg/m2 and with a section of 50X 180 mm for a load of up to 400 kg/m2 with and without cranial bars. The bars should be nailed with construction nails measuring 4X 100 mm. Nails need to be driven in along the axis of the bars every 250 mm. Before installing the floors, it is necessary to break the axes of the beams on the top trim. Beams should be laid parallel to one another, checking that they are laid horizontally building level. We mount the attic frame on beams with cranial bars.
Rice. 9. Beam floor plan:
1, 2 and 3 - beams laid respectively along the top frame of the outer wall, between the racks and above the racks with cranial bars; 4 - spacer
Rice. 10. Design of beams of T-section (a) and rectangular (b) section:
1 - cranial bars; 2 - nails
Rice. 11. Scheme for laying floor beams on the top trim of external walls:
1 and 4 - corner and intermediate posts; 2 - strut; 3 - cornice lining boards; 5 and 6 - beams rectangular section and with cranial bars
The procedure for installing the ceiling is as follows. First, along the top trim, for example along axis 3 (see Fig. 9), we place two boards (each 350 cm long) on an edge and join them end to end at the junction of the internal load-bearing wall (Fig. 11). We fix the same beam parallel to the laid beam at a distance of 150 mm. We fasten these beams with spacers. Then we lay beams with cranial bars above each post, and in the spaces between them - boards on edge. On the top frame of the internal load-bearing wall, the interfloor floor beams located above the racks are joined end-to-end, and those located between the racks - apart (Fig. 12). We cover the seams with cranial blocks.
Rice. 12. Scheme of laying beams on the top frame of the internal load-bearing wall: 1 and 6 - racks of the frames of the external and internal walls; 2 and 7 - upper frame frames of external and internal walls; 3 - floor beams; 4 - strut; 5 - joint of cranial bars; 8 - nails
The top of all laid beams must be at the same mark (check with a cord or batten). Then we fix the beams with nails and lay a flooring of boards on top of them.
When assembling frame elements, the following requirements must be observed:
– the bars of the lower trim must fit tightly to the waterproofing of the base; – the ends of the racks, crossbars, struts and truss elements must be marked with an accuracy of 1 mm and cut off mainly with an electric saw (it is difficult to obtain them with a hacksaw high-quality surface);
– the bottom row of bars of the upper trim should be laid so that their ends rest on racks of two bars with a length of at least 60 mm;
– the strapping bars must be additionally fastened with nails to the posts;
– each end of the crossbar must be secured to the post with two nails, and from the inside, the nail should be driven obliquely through the post into the end of the crossbar;
– all frame elements must be secured with nails. Nails with a diameter of up to 3.5 mm are driven in at a distance of at least 40 mm from the end or edge of the board. For nails with a diameter greater than 3.5 mm, pre-drill holes with a diameter equal to 0.9 of the nail diameter. When joining two bars, the distance between the axes of the nails should be 25...30 cm.
Frame walls It is recommended to sheathe the outside with tongue-and-groove factory-made boards with a thickness of 20 mm or less, and a width of 80... 100 mm. This thickness of the boards was taken from the condition, firstly, of saving wood and, secondly, the possibility of obtaining relatively exact dimensions tongue and groove when processing wood.
In the absence of factory-made tongue and groove boards for external cladding It is advisable to use at home edged boards 30...40 mm thick and 150 mm wide. They need to be processed into tongue and groove. In this case, the number of processed boards is reduced by one and a half to two times, and large tolerances in the manufacture of tongue and groove are acceptable without compromising quality. The simplest type of tongue obtained using a power tool is a quarter (rebated).
For aesthetic reasons, we cover the lower part of the frame (from the base to the bottom of the windows) with vertically arranged boards (Fig. 13). We match them in a quarter or overlap (Fig. 14). The boards must be nailed from the corner after the vertical installation of the first board has been checked and plumb. To reduce the ventilation of the walls, we lay thick paper - glassine - between the frame and the sheathing. There should be no gaps where the boards meet. The top of the sheathing also needs to be cut into quarters to securely mate (to prevent raindrops and wet snow from getting in) with the horizontal boards above. Within a blank wall, the “tooth” of the tongue can protrude entirely above the upper plane of the crossbar by half the thickness of the board. Within the window opening (Fig. 15), the protruding part of the tongue should be equal to the thickness of the sealing gasket.
Rice. 13. Scheme of the outer cladding of the house frame: 1 - stand; 2 - lower trim; 3 - brick plinth; 4 - slit; 5 - plank cladding; 6 - nails; 7 - crossbar; 8 - glassine
Rice. 14. Schemes for pairing cladding boards: a - in a quarter; 1 - stand; 2 - crossbar; 3 - casing); b - overlap (1-post; 2 - crossbar; 3 and 4 - boards 40 and 20 mm thick)
Rice. 15. Vertical section of a window opening: 1 - slot for water drainage; 2 - drain; 3 and 5 - external and internal cladding; 4- stand; 6 - crossbar; 7 - window sill board with a section of 50X 100 mm; 8- sealing gasket; 9 - finishing detail; 10 - flashing
Rice. 16. Scheme for connecting the outer cladding of the 1st and 2nd floors: 1 - rack; 2-top trim; 3 - vertically located attic cladding boards; 4 - interfloor beam; 5 - horizontally located cladding boards of the 1st floor
All windows in the house should be made with paired frames of the C series (GOST 11214-78). The dimensions of such windows are as follows: height - 560, 860, 1160, 1460 mm; width - 570, 720, 870, 1170, 1320 mm. The window opening must be arranged to fit specific existing windows. To reduce air permeability around the perimeter of the window, it is necessary to install sealing gaskets made of polyurethane foam or other material.
Gaskets must be elastic, durable and frost-resistant. Before fixing the window block in the opening, you should check that it is installed correctly with a plumb line and level. The axes of the window block (vertical and horizontal) must be parallel to the axes of the mullions and crossbars. We fasten the window block to the mullions and crossbars with nails.
Horizontally located boards of the outer cladding of the first floor should end at the level of the top trim.
The lower part of the attic to the bottom of its window opening is sheathed vertically. boards. The connection between the outer cladding of the 1st and 2nd floors is shown in Figure 16. Then we sew horizontally spaced boards to the level of the attic ceiling. We cover the triangular part of the pediment with vertically installed boards. We cover the joints of the rows of cladding with strips.
Next stage work - wall insulation. Bulk (for example, 90% sawdust and 10% lime - fluff, slag, straw, etc.), rolled (mineral wool in a roll on a soft cardboard base) materials and slabs can be used as insulation. The best insulation(according to thermal data and labor intensity of work) are slabs.
The smaller the number of the slab brand, the better insulation according to thermal data. For example, a slab of grade 50 and a thickness of 60 mm laid in a wall is equivalent in terms of thermal performance to a wall with a 300 mm layer of sawdust.
For the wall of our structure (Fig. 17), with a distance between the inner sides of the outer and internal lining 100 mm (across the width of the bottom trim), the most acceptable insulation thickness is 80 mm. In this case, a 20 mm ventilation opening can be provided in the wall.
Rice. 17. Design of the wall element: 1 - slats with a section of 20X 20 mm; 2 - glassine; 3 - outer skin; 4 - drain; 5 - base; 6 - waterproofing; 7 - lower trim; 8- joint of mineral wool slabs; 9 - nails
Rice. 18. Construction of the basement: 1 - lower trim; 2 - brick base; 3 - corrugated asbestos-cement sheets of the subfloor; 4 - cranial block; 5 - waterproofing; 6 - finished floor boards; 7 - insulation; 8 - frame stand
Rice. 19. Scheme of laying the beams of the basement: 1 - brick base; 2 - lower trim; 3 - cranial block; 4 - board placed on edge; 5 - frame stand; 6 and 7 - joints of cranial bars and beams on the inner wall trim
Rice. 20. Section of a beam made of two paired boards with cranial bars
The procedure for laying and fastening mineral wool slabs is as follows. First, we fill the wall with slats with a cross-section of 20X20 mm (you must use slats obtained by processing quarter boards 40 mm thick for external cladding) every 250 mm in height. We install two slats at the joints of the plates. We lay the slabs from bottom to top and sew them with nails. To protect the slabs from being moistened by air vapor moving from the room to the outside through the walls in cold weather, it is necessary to lay them on inner side(from the room side) an insulating layer of roofing felt. Then we fasten the internal cladding boards along this insulating layer.
We arrange basement floors in the house (Fig. 18). We lay the beams on the bottom frame along a layer of roofing material every 500...700 mm (Fig. 19). With a step of 500 mm, a board with a section of 150X50 mm with cranial bars can be used as a beam; with a step of 700 mm, two paired boards with cranial bars can be used (Fig. 20).
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- Frame walls and ceilings
Greetings to all readers of the blog, Sergey Menkov is in touch with you.
In this article I will continue to describe the construction of my house, and now I will tell you how I made the floors for my house.
I have three floors, this is the bottom floor - the floor of the first floor, the interfloor floor, and attic floor in the attic.
Brief plan articles:
- Types of floors
- Floors frame buildings
- Floor covering
- Ceiling lining
- Insulation
- Soundproofing
- Construction order
Overlap in frame house must have certain properties. The most important thing is to have sufficient deflection strength of the beams. I will tell you later how to calculate the size and pitch of beams depending on the width of the overlapped span, but for now let’s go through a little theory.
Types of floors
For private housing construction they are used different kinds floors, the most common are wooden beam floor, and with the help concrete slabs ceilings
Without beam monolithic ceiling in case of independent house construction it is used less often, since it is more labor-intensive in execution, with a large number preparatory work.
I will not consider them all in this article, but will talk about how frame floors are arranged; my house is frame
Floors of frame buildings
Frame beams ceilings must have a number of properties; I will list the main ones that you should rely on when designing a frame house:
- Safety margin for deflection - so as not to get a trampoline instead of a floor, and it won’t simply fall into the underground.
- Resistance to biological effects is concerns lower ceiling , it is close to the ground, and if rotting happens, the weak wood will quickly collapse.
- Thermal insulation properties - this determines how warm the house will be. This is especially true for the upper ceiling, it is through it that the a large number of warmth from home.
- Sound insulation is a property characteristic of interfloor slabs. Complete sound insulation is very difficult to achieve. I neglected this, and will limit myself to only a partial one, with a bookmark soundproofing boards, or backfilling with any bulk material.
- Ease of construction is also very important; as a rule, frame houses are erected by one or two people during self-construction, so the technology should be feasible. Below I’ll tell you how I made the floors for my house, all by hand, no cranes, lifts or other devices.
In order to start calculations, you will need to stock up on data on the interaxial distance between the walls on which the beams will rest.
The material for the beams was larch; it is a very durable tree, resistant to various influences, we have a large quantity of it in stock, and it is cheaper than pine.
Of course, there are also disadvantages, such as the tendency to torsion and the heavy weight of the boards. But they are easily leveled out by those described above positive qualities.
Floor covering
The frame floor beams are covered with decking. They use different types of subfloors, I used a magpie board and 10 mm plywood on top of it, and in the kitchen 18 mm plywood, it so happened that I miscalculated the quantity of tens and ordered a little less than necessary.
A quarter of the house was left unprotected by plywood. And then a friend of mine offered me 18 plywood right into my hand for half the price (it came out at the price of tens). I quickly bought ten sheets from him, the problem disappeared by itself, and I will cover the most popular rooms in the house with thicker plywood, this will only improve the quality of the floor.
If the pitch of the beams is small, then you can use plywood or OSB sheets, this is a common practice, I didn’t do this, so I can’t talk about it in detail. If anyone wants to do this, then google it, everything will be found)
Ceiling lining
My ceiling has not been hemmed yet, for the first time I plan to sheathe it with boards or gypsum plasterboard sheets over the sheathing. There, under the plasterboard, I will place the electrical wiring leading to the lighting.
To be honest, I have not yet decided how I will make the ceiling, so the frame interfloor ceiling is still in question. I depicted the option in the picture below. Think.
This is where my mistake lies; it was necessary to think in advance about insulating these places. Now you will have to work hard to blow out these places efficiently. I want to hire an installation and blow foam into this distance to a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm, I think this will be enough.
When using mineral wool at the junction of walls, it is recommended to lay insulation 60 cm from the edge of the wall, approximately as in this picture.
My attic is insulated with sawdust, the layer thickness is still 25 cm, when this layer dries completely, I will gradually increase it to 40-50 cm. Sawdust as an insulation material is a very good material, and most importantly, it is practically free. The sawmills themselves call and ask where to unload.
I did not use cotton wool in the attic for reasons of steam regulation in the house. The sawdust will easily release some of the steam to the street, without losing its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, there is no vapor barrier in the house on the second floor ceiling.
Soundproofing
Used as sound insulation for floors various materials, let's look at the main ones:
- Mineral wool - these include all types mineral wool used for sound insulation. It is recommended to use a denser one, although sound waves are well damped by light glass wool. From impact noise anyway, only an integrated approach will save you.
- Bulk - various backfills, for example, ecowool, sawdust, sand, expanded clay and other materials with soundproofing characteristics.
- Sheet materials in the form of vibration-isolating sheets, special floor coverings under finishing, cork coverings. They are more often used in complex sound insulation methods.
- An integrated approach to eliminating noise consists of a combination various solutions, for example, the use of layers of different density and strength.
Construction order
Well, let's finish with the theory, now I'll tell you how I made my ceilings.
The lower and interfloor ceilings in a frame house are almost identical in construction technology. The only thing is that when working on the second floor you should take precautions; falling from there is not very pleasant.
Well, I think it’s time to finish, I hope that after reading the article you will not have any questions about how to make a ceiling in a frame house. If you leave a comment, I will definitely answer.
And if anyone wants to add anything, don’t be shy!
PS.
And one more thing, we had a discussion with my wife, and she decided to try to take on a couple of blog columns. So maybe the blog will soon become a family blog!
Well, that’s all bye everyone, don’t forget to subscribe to updates, I’m off to bed….
After exterior walls of a frame house assembled, raised and, most importantly, leveled, you can move on to the interfloor floors. If you have cottage, the ceiling will be called “attic” and will be the last in the structure of the house. We will also look at the characteristics of frame houses types of roofs and their design.
Frame house floors
The main task frame house floors- this is not only the creation of the floor of the second floor and the ceiling of the first, but also strengthening the structure of the house. Floor beams are selected for strength and rigidity. Strength requirements depend on the load the beams must bear. The rigidity, in turn, should be such as to minimize the possibility of cracks in the ceiling finish due to temporary loads and, more importantly, to reduce unpleasant vibration of the floor from moving loads.
Beams frame house floors are made, as a rule, from boards 38 mm thick and width (beam height) 140, 184, 235 or 286 mm. The size (height) depends on the load, span, distance between beams, species and type of wood, as well as on the permissible deformation. The spacing between beams is usually 400 mm (16 in.), although for higher loads or limited space, reduced height beams can be spaced 300 mm (12 in.) apart. If the beam board has a slight curvature in the plane, it should be installed with the curved side up. Once the decking and finished floor are installed, the curvature of the beam is usually leveled out. The figure below shows the structure of a beam floor.
If you need to make an opening in the ceiling for a staircase or fireplace chimney.
Preparation for the floors is done by sheathing panels made of plywood, OSB plywood, and sheathing with boards no more than 184 mm wide in quarter or tongue and groove. Plywood panels are installed so that the surface fibers are directed perpendicular to the floor beams. If the plywood preparation is made together with a floor underlay, then the side edges of the panels should be supported by blocking with 38 x 38 mm (2 x 2 in) blocks between the floor beams. There is no need to support if the edges of the panels are joined into a tongue and groove.
Roof of a frame house
The simplest roof of a frame house for construction directly on the site is a pediment gable roof(option A). All rafters are cut to the same length with the same details, and installation is not difficult. When installing an attic living space, it is important to pay attention to insulation and correct installation air insulation and vapor barriers. This key points frame structure pie.
What is the roof frame made of?
Technology for constructing the roof of a frame house
Installation of a ridge beam frame house roofs begins with attaching two vertical support posts to the top frame of the frame house. The racks are assembled from boards and installed strictly level in order to secure the intermediate racks (ridge supports). In the upper floor, the beams on which they rest must be specially reinforced. The ridge beam is also assembled from boards to enhance its longitudinal strength. The boards are fastened together with metal plates.
The rafter legs are mounted on the ridge and on the edges of the top trim with metal corners. In order to reduce the unsupported span of the rafters, intermediate supporting walls are made from them.
All rafters are cut strictly according to the template with the most accurate cutting angle at the junction with the ridge beam and the edges of the lower trim. All uneven rafters are laid with the unevenness facing up. For roof overhangs, boards are used just above the rafters in order to make lathing along the rafters and ultimately obtain a flat surface on which sheets of OSB plywood (12.5 mm thick) are laid in a checkerboard pattern. Roofing material can be mounted on the resulting structure.
The choice of the frame structure of a house by many developers is by no means random. Such structures have several selection priorities. Among others, the following can be noted:
- Budget advantage compared to houses made of other materials and other technologies
- Short-term time spent on building a house structure
- No need to use special construction equipment and heavy lifting mechanisms
- It is possible to create complex architectural formats
- It is possible to adjust the planning part of the project at all stages of construction
Although, despite these advantages of frame construction, it also has disadvantages. True, they are in smaller quantities:
- The need to make a large number of joints and connections when tying the upper and lower piping and strengthening the rigidity of the structure
- Selection bulk materials for backfilling into the inter-wall space - when using some of their types, rodents may infest
Types of frame houses
Building regulations provide for several standard designs frame structures, distinguished by the design of beams, lintels, type of roof and other features structural elements. There are also differences in the number of floors.
Post-frame houses
In this option, supporting vertical posts are installed on concrete foundations or in the ground as piles.
This type of house is used in wetlands or in areas where it is desirable to provide ventilation to the lower part of the house.
The design of such buildings provides for the installation of frame elements between load-bearing vertical posts.
Frames are placed with ready-made openings for windows and doors. The rest of the wall surfaces are made of solid frame elements.
Post-beam frame houses
A special feature is the use of massive beams and racks with a beam section of 150x150 mm and even up to 200x200 mm.
This makes it possible to install window and door openings with large area. In this case, there is no need to install auxiliary crossbars and other reinforcing elements.
The massiveness of the timber makes the house less susceptible to the influence of aggressive factors. Such houses can often be seen in villages in Austria and Germany.
Houses with a frame made of continuous posts
Usually this two-story houses, whose designs are characteristic of the Scandinavian countries. Vertical racks they pass through both floors.
A board is attached in the middle of the beams, providing fastening of the interfloor floors.
The strength of wall elements is achieved by strengthening the logs.
However, such structures are difficult in structures of complex configuration, since it is necessary to ensure strict parallelism of the vertical beams.
Frame houses with frame structures with floors
One of the most common structures that came to Russia from Canada, which is why buildings based on such projects received their second name - “ canadian houses" This technology is also known in construction circles as a “platform” or pallet structure.
The lower frame is laid on the base of the foundation. Floor joists and beams for the equipment of the lower floor are installed on it. They are also connected into another pallet or platform using façade logs. And already on such a platform the wall frame structural elements are mounted.
Vertical bars serve as racks to create the frame. load-bearing beams. From below they are connected to the joists of the lower platform and the façade joists. Their upper parts serve as the basis for creating another platform, which will be the lower part of the second floor. Next, the construction procedure is repeated similarly to the lower part of the house.
Foundation for a frame house
Since the peculiarity of frame buildings is their light weight, choosing a foundation is not difficult.
When laying the foundation, you will need to take into account the structural features of the soil, deep freezing of the soil, the distance to the upper horizon of soil water and the ratio of the last two parameters.
If the ground on the site freezes above the groundwater level, then a shallow strip foundation can be laid. Otherwise you will have to arrange columnar foundation or foundation on stilts. The latter option may involve the use of concrete or screw piles.
In areas with very heaving soil or with a loose soil structure, a monolithic foundation made of slabs or by continuous pouring of concrete is more suitable.
If you are just thinking about building such a house, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the disadvantages of frame houses, which are described.
Floor installation of a frame house
Concrete floors on the first floor are made by pouring with a layer thickness of up to 100 mm. In this case, it is necessary to carry out insulation first. For this purpose it is necessary to use roll insulation thickness from 180 mm.
If a frame house is built on stilts and equipped with a concrete floor, then the thickness of the insulation should be 250 mm. At the same time, the space between the piles or pillars must be filled with sand or expanded clay.
When installing a wooden floor, brick or concrete supports, on which they fit wooden joists made of durable wood. Floor boards are laid on them. They are tightly fitted to each other with staples and wedges.
Load-bearing structures of walls of frame structures
The walls in frame houses are wooden frames with vertical bars along the edges of such a frame.
The frame is tied with longitudinal straps located parallel to each other and strictly perpendicular to the vertical bars. Additionally, each frame must be strengthened with oblique struts.
The construction of window openings in load-bearing wall structures is made using wooden lintels to give the frame additional stability and strength. If the jumpers do not reach the elements of the top layer of the trim, then they must be connected to each other by racks.
The two boards of each lintel must be connected to each other by additional spacers made of plywood or thin boards.
Installation of floors in frame houses
The installation of interfloor lintels is a less complex process than the installation of floors on the first floor. Since on the ground floor it is important to ensure reliable heating, then when installing jumpers between the first and second floors, it is necessary to ensure that flows are cut off warm air and create reliable sound insulation.
When creating a second floor floor platform, a vapor barrier and soundproofing materials are attached under the floor joists. Their thickness may be less than when installing the floor on the first floor.
A board up to 20 mm thick is placed at the bottom of the logs. It will also serve as a frame base for the ceiling of the first floor. After laying the insulation and sound insulation, the log is laid along the upper edge wooden floor from boards up to 50 mm thick.
Partitions between rooms in the house
Interior partitions in a frame house are also mounted from wooden frames.
Spans of partitions can be completed from several small frames attached to vertical risers and elements of load-bearing walls. One-piece frame structures can also be used.
Fastening interior partitions is made along their entire perimeter - the sidewalls of the frames are fastened with load-bearing walls and among themselves. The top is mounted to the ceiling platform, and the bottom of the partition is installed on the floor surface.
To give strength to interior partitions, they are supplemented with diagonal braces. The space of frames for interior partitions is equipped with sound insulation.
Roof of a frame building
The roof must have high vapor emission and sound insulation. In addition, the roof must be equipped with waterproofing and windproofing agents.
The roof frame can be gable or single-pitch.
The material for the roof frame is dense wood.
Various roofing materials are used modern materials- metal tiles, slate, bitumen shingles and other roofing materials.
Conclusion
Considering the descriptions individual elements frame house given above, it is easy to conclude that the construction of such a structure is quite acceptable on our own. Such houses do not take much time and effort during construction. For budgetary reasons, they are much cheaper than houses made of brick, foam blocks and other materials.
Video about the features of building a frame house