Boards and timber are one of the main building materials. But not everyone has the financial means to buy ready-made boards. In such situations, one of the solutions is to independently harvest wood on a plot taken from the forestry.
The advantage of a chainsaw as a tool for sawing logs
You can saw a log using a sawmill, gas or electric saw and additional accessories. When choosing one of these tools, you should consider the amount of work ahead. The cost of the cheapest stationary sawmill along with all components is 150 thousand rubles. A chainsaw is much cheaper. It is more convenient than an electric saw for the following reasons:
- Electricity is not required to operate the tool - this makes it possible to use a chainsaw on plots.
- It is more powerful compared to an electric saw.
- It starts smoothly and allows you to conveniently adjust the speed, which reduces the likelihood of a chain break.
- The inertial brake operates faster than that of an electric saw.
- Long working time without interruption – up to one hour.
- Can be used in conditions of high humidity.
Types of working attachments
When sawing logs with a chainsaw, various attachments are used.
- Nozzle for longitudinal sawing. It is used for sawing logs lengthwise, the process takes place in a horizontal position. After work, the master receives the same thickness of the product. Finished materials are subjected to a drying process, after which the boards are used in construction. By appearance the device is a small frame, it is attached to the tire on each side.
- Drum debarker (debarker). With the help of such an attachment it is easy to dissolve the log; it works due to V-belt transmission. Attached to belts on both sides, special pulleys are used for this. The speed of rotation of the shaft depends on the size of the pulleys, so the performance of the attachment is easy to change. This technology forces the master to carefully monitor each stage of the process; some specialists use an assistant during this cutting. But this option requires increased security measures.
- Sawing with a lightweight nozzle. The method is no different high performance, but is used quite often. The element is fastened on one side, but the workpieces are slightly uneven. Such materials are necessary for the construction of sheds or fences.
Features of sawing using a homemade tool
You can easily saw a log into boards using a self-made tool. It's easy to make. To do this you need to do the following:
- As a support, you need to use a frame from a school desk or a pipe with a cross-section in the form of a square, its optimal size is 20x20, more is allowed.
- It is necessary to build two clamps, mount a cross member with two holes for coupling bolts at one end, and make a protrusion for the tire in the middle.
- To cut logs longitudinally into boards, you need to make support frame, its width should be seven to eight centimeters less than its length.
- Then two parts ten centimeters long are welded to both sides, holes are made for the bolts, and a handle is attached in the middle for ease of operation.
- Then you need to insert the clamps into the grooves, install the tire, and secure everything carefully.
To Work with homemade instrument It’s not difficult, for this you will need goats, they will serve as a support. In addition, you need to prepare a metal strip or board to use as a guide. A log is placed underneath and the required height for work is set.
The procedure for performing preparatory work
To cut a log lengthwise, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:
- Take two straight boards and attach one to the other at right angles. The result is a strong guide line.
- To support the manufactured ruler, you need to make stops from boards.
- Moving the trunks must be done using a tilter.
- The log should be placed on a comfortable base.
- You need to secure the frame to the chainsaw bar using nuts.
- The supports of the leading ruler must be attached to the ends of the log, checking the horizontal position with a level.
- Self-tapping screws must be used to secure all brackets and structural elements. Nails are not suitable for these purposes, since they are difficult to remove in the future without causing damage to the structural parts.
- The leading ruler needs to be attached to the supports using brackets and its height adjusted taking into account that the cut will not go along it, but approximately one centimeter higher.
- The log needs to be rotated and the second board secured so that it rests on the ground and supports the log.
Procedure for performing basic work
- Now you need to start the chainsaw and make the first cut.
- Next, you need to free the log from the stops and boards and attach a guide ruler to the cut surface of the log in the direction of the next cut. The ruler is attached directly to the surface or to the ends of the log using supports. The second cut is made perpendicular to the first cut.
- The log needs to be turned and secured with a board against the ground.
- A ruler is not required to perform the following steps. One of the cut sides serves as a guide.
- It is necessary to adjust the thickness of the cut on the frame and saw off the log from the other side so that you get a beam with bark remaining on only one side.
- This beam must be turned over and secured so that the attachment point of the fixing board is as low as possible.
- Then you need to adjust the frame to the required thickness of the board and saw the timber into boards.
Safety rules when performing work
- Should not be used circular saw without protective casing.
- It is necessary to wear headphones, gloves, glasses, thick clothing and a respirator.
- Do not pour fuel into hot tank tool, you need to wait until it cools down.
- Children should not be allowed to be present at the work site.
- It is necessary to start the tool on the ground with the chain brake engaged, which must be released only before starting to cut.
- You should always have a first aid kit on hand.
- When working, you need to hold the chainsaw by the arc handle, moving it forward along the guide. You should not put too much pressure on the chainsaw - it should move freely.
- Right-handed people should place the log on their right side, left-handed people should place it on their left.
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 15:19
Hello everyone!!! Comrades, please, provide Help with this trick: I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. For all sorts of different country needs. Here it was necessary to cut down the railway sleepers. I cut about a dozen and...... away we go, the chain either tightens or loosens on its own, jumping off the tire. I adjusted the tension regularly, cleaned the bar and saw. The chain became dull in one fell swoop. Upon closer inspection, I find out that the tire has darkened around the edges! Sparks are noticeable when the chain moves. There is oil in the sawdust, but somehow it’s not enough. I'm blaming the chain for insufficient lubrication. When purchasing, it was recommended to fill in any oil, except for waste oil; I filled in semi-synthetic oil from BP, which was left over from replacing it in the car. Maybe I messed up here? I really need a saw for the next shoot. What recommendations do you recommend?
ZY Before this saw, I only saw them in pictures and on TV!
kaizer2007 01-08-2010 15:26
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 16:51
First of all, if the chain is scorched and it becomes dull, change it.
The chain has darkened noticeably. Sharpening won't save the "patient"?
Mikhai 01-08-2010 17:15
Sharpening won't save the "patient"?
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 17:24
No. Replacement only. Better together with the tire.
However! I'd like a reason understand that there is still the same kind of work ahead. God be with him, you can change the tire and chain once, but every weekend, it’s going to be a bit steep. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such consumption of tires and chains? Wrong oil?
kaizer2007 01-08-2010 18:02
quote: Originally posted by Igoreh@:
However! I wish I could understand the reason; there is still the same kind of work ahead. God be with him, you can change the tire and chain once, but every weekend, it’s going to be a bit steep. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such consumption of tires and chains? Wrong oil?
Probably not the same tree.
Each chain and bar are designed for a certain hardness of the wood species.
We went a little too far with sawing.
Regarding the replacement of the tire, I will express my opinion - it is possible to replace the corresponding
chains - try sawing, if it’s not so good, then change the tire.
Before replacing -go to the manufacturer's website- Additional Information will also help in the future.
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 18:09
quote: Originally posted by kaizer2007:
Probably not the same tree.
Yes, it's definitely not the same tree. The sleepers are covered in creosote, although they are old. I see, thanks, I'll go search now.
Mikhai 01-08-2010 20:24
quote: Originally posted by Igoreh@:
The sleepers are covered in creosote, although they are old.
One little advice: soak the tire in kerosene, rinse, dry and be sure to regularly fill the sprocket bearing with lithol (there are two tiny holes there, conveniently with a syringe without a needle).
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 20:47
quote: Originally posted by Mikhai:
If I'm not mistaken, the manual says that old trees and dead wood contribute to the speedy failure of both the chain and the tire.
Yes, I read it, but there is no way out. Thanks for the advice! I cleaned it with kerosene (or rather with VeDeshka, everything is not so bad with the tire. The black marks are most likely from creasote, washed off with a mixture of gasoline and Vedeshka. I’m not an expert, but nothing more suspicious was found, I think it will last. With the chain it’s worse, the verdict is the same, change it. I was thinking about finding a chain that is more wear-resistant for my case, but as always there is no meaningful information on the official website.
Serjant 01-08-2010 22:41
You need a chain with carbide teeth.
It costs as much as a small plane, but it lasts a long time.
quote: Recently I had to cut down the railway sleepers.
for yourself or for money??
If you don't mind drowning them right away in the nearest swamp.
if for money, the person must be put under the condition that the purchase of a new chain and tire is for him. anyway.
Otherwise, let him drown in a swamp for that kind of money...
Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 23:24
for yourself or for money??
No, not for yourself and not for money. I help my parents; there is a lot of construction going on there. I’m building something like a barn in such a way that I have no one to ask but myself, sleepers and I can’t drown them in a swamp either, for obvious reasons. Of course, all this does not justify using a saw that costs more than these sleepers. but they decided, and it’s not customary for us to contradict. Naturally, there is simply no one to demand compensation from, except yourself.
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
and sharpen a regular chain periodically.
Sharpening won’t fix the problem, I’ll look for a chain with tungsten carbide and can’t find it, I’ll buy a pair of simple ones, where should I go?
Serjant 01-08-2010 23:43
quote: No, not for yourself and not for money. I help my parents; there is a lot of construction going on there.
throw these sleepers completely out of the area. and the faster the better.
1. they stink. Always. under any conditions.
2. the smell is never erased by anything.
3. Poisonous impregnation of sleepers will never improve anyone’s health. (unless you want to speed up the process of burying 7 feet underground)
4. they stink.
If you have a benzucha, mowing down an aspen or a club in the forest is a piece of cake, but if you have a second eagle like you, dragging aspen trees the size of a sleeper is a matter of no harm.
Igoreh@ 02-08-2010 12:24
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
PS. Drink has nothing to do with it. We think head on, there is no need to use sleepers in construction, especially for yourself and your loved ones.
It’s too late to drink Borjomi The old people can’t be changed, but something can be done with the poison. The premises are not residential, there are simply no open sleepers left, there are plans and experience in isolating creasote.
Monolit-kbf 02-08-2010 08:37
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
and forget about the sleepers as building material. forget it altogether. poisonous rubbish and dirty tricks.
I completely agree. In cold, especially frosty weather, creosote does not smell or evaporate, but in hot weather... While working as a telecommunications electrician, I worked quite a bit on creosote supports.
1\2 off. A friend complained at one time that there were rats in the barn with the chickens. And one day he stacked the sawn logs from the creosote supports in this shed. The rats are gone. The chickens died too
In the section on the question how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to bandage them, how can I break them? given by the author Forward The best answer is that you can cut it with a diamond disc without any problems. The idea is great, it’s perfect for the sole, BUT.... There are a number of nuances. J.b. sleepers have prestressed reinforcement with a diameter of 3 mm. , approximately 40 rods. If the sleeper works in a gurunt, then the reinforcement can rot quite quickly and the sleeper will lose its properties; concrete without bending reinforcement does not work. Sleepers work on sand-gravel preparation, i.e. on railway. d. embankments where there is no impact groundwater, so they live on a piece of iron for a long time. In general, if you use sleepers, you need to create them comfortable conditions, for example, to make drainage, and good waterproofing, it is better to paste it to get rid of capillary movement of moisture. According to the rules, foundations are not reinforced with reinforcement less than 12 mm. in diameter.
Answer from 22 answers[guru]
Hello! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to bandage them, how can I break them?
Answer from European[newbie]
sit on it
Answer from Woke up[guru]
They break like a sledgehammer - with 2 hits. Use a grinder to saw off iron
Answer from Alexander Schefer[guru]
You take an ISC 633 saw with a diamond chain and cut it off. Delov something.
Answer from Guy from the Future...[guru]
Well, if we use a grinder, then with a diamond on reinforced concrete. checked. in concrete on reinforcement they do not burn
Answer from Yotary Plinth[guru]
A powerful grinder and a cutting abrasive wheel for concrete... works together with the reinforcement...
I usually use a chainsaw for this purpose, and the Stihl MS 180 is quite suitable. It cuts quite easily, despite the fact that sleepers can even be made from larch. But! There is one huge but... you will have to sharpen the chain quite often, since the sleeper is used and it is full of stones and dirt, and they dull the chain very quickly. So get a file, preferably more than one, and cut the sleeper the way you need it.
Of course, one sleeper can be sawed with a two-handed saw, but this is only if there is one. For the rest, it would be advisable to use manual gasoline saw. Also, if you don’t mind using a woodworking machine, you can cut it on it. This will even be even faster and easier, but the saws there are even more expensive. As for household needs, when it comes to the construction of outbuildings, then, of course, good and reliable chainsaw irreplaceable.
Of course, such a thickness will be easier to cut with a chainsaw. If there is no such tool, then the last option is a friendship saw. Cutting sleepers with a one-handed saw will be extremely difficult and time-consuming. I’m sure after the first sleeper my hand will be completely clogged. So my advice is definitely a chainsaw.
Is your band sawmill installed and all the necessary settings made? So it’s time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. In order to really get quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and secure it with special clamps.
From correct calculation The quantity and type of material you want to get from this log also determines the quality.
Having gained further experience, one glance at a log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt part of the log is. The butt part is usually larger in diameter than the apex. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.
How to calculate a log
So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.
Firstly.
We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly straight trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as croaker. When the log is laid and fixed, you should make sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.
Set the diameter size on the ruler of the sawmill, and to this size add the greatest height of the convexity of the log. This is the bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.
Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and start counting the dimensions from this size required material, taking into account the cut size, which ranges from 2 to 5 mm.
Secondly.
As soon as the width of the cut reaches the required size, and the remaining height of the log has reached the right size, it is turned over. That is, if you cut a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the remaining log should correspond to this value, even be greater, taking into account the removal of the slab.
To do this, after turning the log over, start calculating from the final size until the full height of the log is used, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, ranges from 2 to 5 mm.
For example, you have a log on your overpass that you have cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's turn the log over and continue.
The final result we want to achieve is a carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Next, in a simple way, calculate that 260 mm-150 mm = 110 mm. We get as much as 110 mm thickness additional material. And it is precisely this that needs to be calculated correctly.
We take this additional size and calculate it to get the block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50 = 60, don’t forget the cut, and ours is 2 mm, 60-2 = 58 mm, then the plank, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, hump 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.
As you can see, from our calculations, we get 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm gorge and 50 mm block. And the final size will be 150 mm.
Possible mistakes
As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmills make mistakes in calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to it for the cut, otherwise it will be 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we get it as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 = 202 mm.
If it is necessary to obtain edged material, we turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations as described above.
So you have cut your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when making calculations is that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take this fact into account. And don't make such mistakes.
In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will happen automatically in your head; it will be enough to look at the log.
We are sure that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.