Arrangement of the workshop on the balcony. Workshop on the balcony

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About a separate working area many people dream in their apartment, regardless of whether it is a man or a woman. In other words, such a corner can be called a working workshop. Of course, the owners own house this idea does not seem impossible. The workshop in this case can be located on any free territory both inside the house and nearby.

It is a little more difficult to fulfill such a dream if a person is not the owner of a huge house, but of an ordinary city apartment. In an apartment with a large area, a workshop can be organized in a free room. But what if the housing is small? In this case, you can get out of the situation in your own way. If you wish, you can organize workplace on his long-empty balcony.

As with any construction, before you start working, you need to plan your actions. First of all, the balcony is freed from various furniture and other things that no one remembers for a long time. This usually takes a little time. It is very difficult for many to part with their old furniture, so you can not send it to the trash, but transport it to a more secluded place, for example, to the country house, to the garage, or simply give it to good hands. But you can give an old closet or table new life. In this construction it will be possible to use their details.

By correctly measuring the territory and calculating the scale of the work to be done, you can save not only personal time, but also money. This must be done with great accuracy in order to acquire the correct amount of building material in the future.

What you need

A workshop on the balcony of a city apartment is a rather serious step, especially for a beginner in this business. Therefore, pick necessary materials should be slow. Initially, you need to consider everything as carefully as possible. repair work that are to be carried out. For best result you can see the options for the workshops in the photo. In the gallery you can find many options, and at least one, but you should definitely fit.

You can create a workshop on the balcony on your own or with the whole family. Buy necessary details for repairs, you can in a hardware store or even in the market. It is much easier, of course, to contact the masters of their craft, who will complete the order as quickly and efficiently as possible, but for a certain amount of money.

DIY artist's workshop on the balcony

For execution construction works it is desirable to purchase such materials:

  • wooden slats;
  • wooden bars;
  • screws;
  • foil insulation;
  • putty mixture;
  • small fixtures.

What do you need first

In any case, the loggia must be glazed - this is the first rule for creating a workplace on the balcony. By doing this, you keep warm in your future workshop. If the balcony is already glazed, but with old ventilated windows, you need to install durable double-glazed windows. This is exactly the moment when you can not do without experts in their field. Only they will be able to cope with this task quickly and efficiently.

Thorough insulation of the balcony should be approached only if it is used. all year round. If in winter time the workshop will not function, you can not deal with insulation. All that needs to be done is to update the interior and put things in order by making cosmetic repairs.

DIY workshop on the balcony

Balcony insulation

After the windows are installed, you need to pay attention to cracks and crevices, if they are detected, they must be covered up. Cracks can be found on the walls as well as on the floor and ceiling.

After the installation of the frame follows the perimeter of the entire room. For this you should use wooden bars. They are attached to the walls of the balcony with the same interval from each other, after which a heater is inserted into the openings formed. Its thickness should correspond to the scale of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony and not take up extra space.

After the work done, you need to hide the insulated walls behind a special fabric - isospan. Thanks to this fabric, neither cold nor moisture is allowed into the house. So full time job in the workshop on the balcony will be provided.

Workshop on the balcony - self-refurbishment

All insulation and shelters are pressed with wooden slats, this is done thanks to a drill and screws. To cover the main surface of both walls and ceilings, plastic panels. Such a step provides not only practicality and reliability, but also aesthetics.

To complete the insulation, it is necessary to install a heated floor and a radiator. These items are purchased in a special store. After the heating elements are installed on the floor, they are poured cement screed. Leave the floor in this state and wait until it dries. Later it will need to be closed using any flooring which is more suitable.

At the final stage, you need to connect the elements of the radiator and the floor with electrical wiring, checking how well everything works. The main work can be considered completed, in front of you is a finished workshop on the balcony. But soon this place will look different.

Room furnishings

It is at this stage that an ordinary balcony turns into a workshop. Everything needs to be well thought out and planned, as you are faced with not an easy task- hold a large amount various items in one small room. It must be remembered that the most basic element of any workplace on the balcony is the table and departments, in which the storage of all sorts of little things is concentrated. The convenience of your work depends on the location of these elements.

Table and cabinet

The table, which is located in the workshop, simply must be durable, stable and functional. At the moment, models that include drawers and additional shelves are already widespread. They are not only considered very comfortable, but thanks to them the use of space is as rational as possible.

Shelving or can be like separate design, and be located above the table. Items that will be rarely used should be placed in boxes, containers, or on the topmost shelf. To conveniently store small parts, many tend to use shelves, pockets, loops, hooks and any other convenient devices. Thanks to them, all the necessary tools will be at hand, they will not need to be searched for a long time.

Not to buy new furniture, can be used old wardrobe or a table. They can either be repaired or used as separate parts for new designs. Nowadays, almost everything for lovers of tinkering at home is on sale.

Starting from the square, even several machines can be placed on the loggia. But you should not forget that you need to use such devices, adhering to certain rules. Most machines require stable foundation- a frame made of metal.

Converting a balcony into a workshop

So, it became clear that the workshop on the balcony, the photo of which is presented in this article, is a dream that can be realized. Almost anyone can create a workplace on the loggia. Even a balcony of small dimensions allows you to organize a workshop in which there will be a table and a section with the most necessary tools. And if your balcony has an area of ​​​​more than 3 square meters, it can become a full-fledged workshop, which will contain everything that is needed.

Do-it-yourself design option for a workshop on a balcony Workshop on a balcony - independent conversion

A skilled craftsman simply needs a workshop on the balcony of a city apartment in order to equip a stationary place to work and “create” without consequences for the situation in living rooms. With the systematic performance of some tasks, it is not always convenient to regularly go to the garage or to the country, especially in winter. A permanent hobby all the more requires a separate room where you can concentrate and do what you love.

Planning and calculations

Depending on the type of activity, before starting the reorganization on the balcony, the workshop is personally designed according to the following parameters:

High-quality carrying out of all calculations and determination of the parameters of interest is the key to comfort and effective functionality of the premises.

Site preparation

Use usable area to the maximum

Ergonomic use of limited space balcony slabs and a fence, will allow the layout of all objects, drawn in 3 dimensions. Since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room to be finished is usually not large, it is advisable to load the vertical surfaces (number of floors) to the maximum.

If you plan to use the workshop on the balcony only during the warm period, insulation and heating are not necessary, it is enough to protect the room from the sun, wind, prying eyes. In summer, it is better to provide air conditioning.

layout

The main zones of the workshop, located on a limited area of ​​​​the loggia, most often intersect, but you can make them separate, up to separation by partitions. These include:

  • reserve storage departments - spare parts, raw materials, infrequently used tools, as well as storage of finished products;
  • table for precise work with small parts, assembly / disassembly of units and assemblies. There are also shelves with drawers, pockets, pencil cases, glasses, in which there is hand tool, devices, components of products. The principle of placement is to reach everything that may be needed in the work;
  • platform for machining(drilling, cutting, rolling, sawing, rewinding). Here they put machines, plates, mini-workbenches, or simply unwind roll material, drums, cut sheets and rods. In general, blanks of the required size are made from large raw materials.

In the case when your favorite business does not take up much space, you can separate it with a partition, screen, vertical blinds from the recreation area, where flowers, books or a computer desk will be located.

Lighting

Make a combined lighting on the balcony

The following rules will help you rationally plan the location of light sources:

  1. General lighting is diffused, not creating contrasting shadows;
  2. The place of work is equipped with directional sources that create a light spot below the level of the eyes of the master, so as not to blind;
  3. The lamps are turned on sectionally, on separate fittings, for use as needed (it is convenient to use lighting intensity controls).

The required number of points with low power consumption is provided by the use of LED spotlights and strips. For lamps with certain characteristics (light white, yellow, ultraviolet, incandescent spiral), separate desktop, portable, bench options are used. On turning a balcony into a workshop, see this video:

Furnishings

Standard pieces of furniture will not be able to fill tightly narrow space balcony so that the workshop has a finished look. Most of the furnishings are made independently or by individual order.

The table, racks, sectional cabinets, tool holder shelves are made in such a shape and dimensions so as not to hamper the movement of the master. Deviation from this rule not only creates conditions for a decrease in the quality of work, but can also lead to injury. How to make a workshop on the balcony with your own hands, see this video:

You can expand the functionality of a small area using folding, collapsible handy tools that are put on time a certain kind technological operations (principle of the ironing board).

Security Question

After detailed plan the future workshop should return to checking the ability of the balcony to support the weight of all property. It is necessary to take into account not only specific gravity the maximum allowable loads generated by people, but also the detrimental effects of vibration, strong wind and snow.

No matter how spacious modern apartment, the home master still interferes with the rest of the family. And the home master always wants to have his own place for creativity, where no one would interfere with him. In modern new buildings, the loggia is very spacious. Arrange a workshop in the loggia home master very attractive idea glazed balcony will fit too. If we ignore specific types of creativity or business, the workshop on the balcony is not so difficult task. The main thing is to approach the design of your workplace systematically.

Creation of comfortable conditions

Any building structure, especially in a new building, has a number of flaws that have to be eliminated. We must try to close the gaps in the seams of the loggia mounting foam, inspect the glazing and frames, foam the cracks here too. If there is open space under the loggia or balcony, then the floor will freeze through in winter. The floor needs to be insulated. The simplest and most effective option is polyurethane foam yoga mats. If it will be a carpentry workshop on the balcony, then linoleum must be laid on top of the rugs for ease of cleaning.

In areas with long and cold winter, Siberia and the Far East, there is a need for an electric heater. Many economical and compact models are now being produced. The choice of model is up to the owner, but it is better to place the heater on the wall of the loggia, so you need to choose a model with the possibility of such an attachment. The location on the street wall of the loggia is more rational, heating occurs more quickly and the effect of street temperatures is immediately cut off, and the wall of the apartment is warm by default.

Space organization

Usually, the area of ​​a balcony or loggia ranges from 3 m2 to 5 m2. For a balcony workshop project and even for starting a business, this is quite enough if the space is organized correctly. There should be one vertical rack or cabinet for tools and materials. You have to install it by blocking one of the windows. To the detriment of design, but without vertical structures indispensable in order to save usable space.

It is necessary to choose the side from which the sun is the least time during the day. It is better not to block the eastern part, but this depends on many factors.

Illumination is one of the main conditions for comfortable work. Electric lighting is implemented by a duty light bulb above the exit to the balcony and a lamp on a flexible stand above the workbench.

Install a workbench or work table according to the most long wall tempting but not rational. Working with any material requires maximum flexibility in the workshop. If the workplace on the balcony is not a creative workshop of a writer or webmaster, you need a workbench, and not desk. You need to find a workbench for sale with a width that fits into the width of the loggia, or make it yourself. And the processing of long parts can be done on a folding workbench, several models of which are always on sale. They are very comfortable and functional assembled doesn't take up much space. Thus, you can free up space as much as possible.

A stationary workbench must have a cabinet with drawers for small tools and a heavy, stable tabletop. In any case, a bench vise will have to be attached to it - a mandatory attribute of a locksmith's craft.

This example of the simplest design is universal for any kind of home craftsman's work. If the work is not a business, and the creativity itself is episodic, this type of layout is the most rational - checked. A folding workbench, if necessary, is, as it were, a continuation of a stationary one.

An alternative design involves the installation of a large stationary workbench. In this case, it is installed along a warm wall under the window that leaves the room.

The design is similar, but results in a loss free space and acquiring the ability to install equipment on a workbench. Such equipment can be mini lathe, small drilling machine, milling machine based on an electric drill, etc. Walls between windows and balcony glazing certainly engaged different tool, which is recommended to be placed on special hangers. Reinforced hangers and shelves on the walls will free up space on the lower tier of the workshop.

Machine tools and equipment

Workshop on the balcony provides various modes creativity and various areas business. Narrowly focused workshops are equipped in accordance with their specifics. The design will also be subordinated to the type of activity of the home master. The universal workshop is subordinated to the idea of ​​“the master of golden hands”. To the most common types home business include the work of a domestic plumber, carpentry, wood carving and the manufacture of carved sculptures. "Jack of all trades" is also a kind of business, the neighbors will always be grateful. We do not consider such specific activities as working with glass, repairing computers and TVs, weaving and macrame.

  • avoid oversized and heavy machines and tools, professional equipment has no place on the balcony, if only because it is impossible to work effectively on it, and energy costs will be prohibitive,
  • noise and vibration can not only interfere with neighbors, but also lead to a loss of strength of the balcony itself,
  • the mini-workshop just provides for the use of compact removable equipment, which achieves versatility and ease of use,
  • avoid fire hazardous work and work with chemicals, in the case of such work it is imperative to have all necessary funds protection and elimination of negative consequences.

When visiting the shops "Do It Yourself", "Home Goods", "My House", the heart of the home master stops at the sight of a variety of equipment that has appeared on sale not so long ago. The choice ranges from elementary sharpening machines to mini lathes for wood and metal. They are low energy, do not create dangerous vibration and take up very little space. At the same time, modern hand-held equipment often has the function of a fixed installation and addition of various devices.

DIY studio-workshop
Repair work, insulation and decoration of the balcony,
creating a comfortable and functional workplace

We moved to a neighboring house, and the question arose of a new workplace. My first balcony, also described in detail, has served perfectly for more than five years, in excellent condition to this day. Now the question arose more thoroughly, because. it was necessary to do everything completely, including the floor screed, and at the same time think it over so that the balcony fully performed the functions of a year-round studio-workshop - a computer place, a place for drawing and modeling, a place for wood carving and other works.

So, I present to the readers 110 photos “from and to”.
Balcony, area 8.7 sq. m.
The former 1-layer glazing was replaced with wide winter 2-chamber double-glazed windows.

View before work began.

Impregnation with a primer of a bar 40x20. It is convenient to cover right there, on the floor, which will then also be primed. It is better not to save and take a planed timber.

To level the floor, I used self-leveling floors. You can use laser level, but did not have such a device. Assuming a floor thickness of about 3 cm, I screwed in a self-tapping screw at this height in one side of the balcony, pulled the thread from it to the other corner, checking, as far as possible, with a "level". Additionally outlined the thread perimeter with chalk.

He put the bar to dry. Prepared packages of foam 30 mm, penofol 10 mm and a roll of 2 mm foam film.

Primed the floor. Dilapidated particles and layers of the solution are first knocked off the surface with a chisel, even before priming.
Everything is carefully swept, vacuumed and only then primed.

Approximately divided the area of ​​​​the balcony into 3 equal parts. Since I have access to the balcony near its middle, it would be impossible to pour and level the liquid floor over the entire area. First, I did it on the extreme sides, and only then - flooded the central square.

Take Special attention sealing contours for self-leveling floor! Its consistency is similar to kefir, the mixture flows easily into any holes. I made the sills from the remnants of skirting boards wrapped in polyethylene, firmly resting them in opposite walls, applying from the non-poured side of the bags of the mixture for reliability. It is better to come up with something more technological and convenient, but in general, it’s so good.

The mixture is mixed according to the instructions. Mixer attachment, drill, large bucket, leveling studded roller. It is useful to have on hand an additional container, a cardboard for tapping the roller and other incidental trifles.

The mixture is fast-hardening, after a few hours you can walk on foot (depending on the type of mixture). But you can’t give a long load, for example, if you put bags of the mixture on a fresh floor for several hours, a dent will appear in this place.

Hardened floors are matte, perfectly even, very pleasant to the touch.

With two thirds ready, I needed to fill in the central one. This is the most difficult part, because you need to get into the level of those thirds. In addition, there was a hole at the threshold, the deepest part of the floor.

And the threshold also required "topping up"))), I had to fence something like a side-formwork there.

Finally topped up the floor. Minimal height differences cannot be avoided during partial filling, the curvature within 1 mm is solved simply - we wait until the solution thickens a little and with a denser mass that does not spread so actively, more and more gain a level like that of neighboring thirds. With a spatula, we align the borders to an ideal plane. Ideally, if there is access to the entire area from different sides, it is better to fill the entire area in one go, but in my case this was not possible.

As a result, we have an excellent flat floor and threshold. On the sides, if you wish, you can lay a damper soft tape up to the bay, but I don’t think that in this case the tape will play any role, it’s better to put it for sheet materials, with a large coefficient of expansion / contraction from temperature and humidity.

Finished with subfloors. We are starting to warm up. I wrap the cold walls with a 2-mm foam film with the first layer. You can not use it at all, but there are two reasons why it does not interfere - extra heat-moisture-vapor barrier and more comfortable installation conditions (nothing falls on your head or floor, it's more pleasant to work). This film is attached with 2-sided tape. Remember that the wall adjacent to the rooms is not insulated, the rooms should give off heat to the balcony to the maximum.

Along the way, I'm thinking about mortgages for hanging cabinets. At the end of the balcony cold wall(it is known that the neighbor is not going to insulate the balcony, i.e. it will be a cold wall). The thickness of the mortgages is calculated according to the "pie" of thermal insulation. The column is also partially insulated, because is a huge heat exchanger.

We begin to lay the Penoplex slabs. This is a great material that is easy to cut and easy to install.

Installation is very easy. Drilling into the ceiling is, in principle, possible with one hand with some experience. Fastening is carried out on plastic dowels-fungi.

When the ceiling is finished, we sheathe the parapet.

Do not throw away Penoplex pieces, even the smallest and thinnest. Plots with big gaps densely clogged with these trimmings, so you get the densest Penoplex-covering of the area.

The space behind the column was also covered with foam to avoid the release of cold.

Everything is glued, the view is very beautiful, at least leave it like that!)

We proceed to penofol, we will make a tormos from the balcony.

Useful advice on how to attach penofol to penoplex? Simply, take 3 cm self-tapping screws and push them into the ceiling with your fingers. Then, when you fix the ceiling sheathing, some self-tapping screws can be unscrewed so that the good does not disappear.

It is quite possible to attach five-meter penofol tapes to one.

The ceiling is closed, I proceed to the parapet and the end wall.

I also close the column with penofol.

Spaceship, no less!

I'm starting to mount the crate for the ceiling.
Along the entire perimeter, at a level with a wooden crate, you will need to drill plastic U-profile. It is indicated that it is 5mm, but 7mm panels are inserted into it very tightly. Wooden crate should have one level with plastic guides, which is understandable.
I don't buy any special ceiling systems. You can completely get by with simple tape profiles for drywall boards. We bend them and fasten them to the ceiling, through the central hole, bend the side wings down and get a convenient thing for attaching the timber. The beam is attached to the wings with ordinary furniture short self-tapping screws (one at a time from the narrow sides). in this way we obtain a stable, strong hanging crate. By perforation in the wings, you can change its level.

The ceiling level is calculated from a combination of the dimensions of the window ceiling extension, the level of room windows, etc. As a result, two lines with crossbars for hanging fixtures are obtained. These points must also be thought out and calculated in advance, and wires must be connected.

Lathing on the parapet. Three lines are enough per meter of height. sewn to brick wall dowel-nails 6x80 mm.

We throw wires into the light. The crossbars are drilled in the center, a wire with a section of 1.5 mm is wound up, tied in a knot higher so that it does not pull out under possible tension.

Along the way, the crate is being completed on other walls, points for sockets are outlined. I start laying foam on the floor.

I plan to put a 12-mm OSB-plate on the penoplex. It is a large chipping material, stable, natural and durable.

The material is very beautiful and fragrant :)

Don't forget about wiring.

I prepared a crate for sockets, a switch and a floor heating console.

OSB boards were cut on beer crates. Beer crates are generally a super-convenient thing for work - if you want, focus on it, if you want to drill on it or drink, sit or get up.

The slabs were relied on in size, a layer of penofol along the parapet appeared in the background of the damper tape. But, I think, the expansion of the material here will be insignificant to take into account.

The slabs lay so tightly that in some places it was impossible to see the seams.

At least cover with durable glass and leave it like that, very beautiful!

Penofol joints are also glued with mirror tape.

Electrical wiring.

In the process, it turned out that he forgot a couple more mortgages.

Trying on window sills. 5 years ago, the docking of the window sill with the frame was of a different design, now there is a flexible plastic "lip" from the bottom of the frame, where the window sill is pushed with force. Pushing a 2.5 m window sill there alone was not easy, every 10 cm wedged the "lip" with two screwdrivers, it seems. ten sweats gone.

In total there are 10 running meters on the balcony.

I'm starting to build a ceiling. Material - MDF panels, 200x2600x7mm.

Wesavlyayuschaya in U-profile the ends of the board, I fix it with two more thin screws to the crate beam. It is better to pre-drill so that the timber does not crack.

In general, the ceiling is recruited quite quickly. But I had a forced pause, the sender guessed to rewind part of the packages masking tape without a substrate, it stuck to the laminated layer and came off only together with the latter, leaving white ruts on the boards. Soaking also did not work, so some of the boards came in non-marketable form, I had to wait two weeks until the seller brought new ones at his own expense.

I pull out conclusions on "light". There was a large supply of extra three-core wire 1.5 mm in stock, and they led the light, even if the third core remained superfluous.

This time, the window sills were also installed only en foam, without any kind of hard fixation to the parapet. I consider it redundant. The foam holds very well, especially since there is no effort to pull it off from the bottom up. The only thing, after a certain distance, I put the timber trimmings, again without fasteners, with an emphasis on the crate for additional rigidity. The foam will harden, there will be an MDF board outside. A uniform load is needed so that the foam does not lift the window sill set on the level. Packs with laminate are also excellent for these purposes.

A beam is needed for mounting sockets and switches to make the structure more rigid and reliable.

Sidebar set. Here another incident happened, the seller assured that the MDF panels had a length of 2700 mm, I believed, knowing that such a size really exists. In fact, the boards turned out to be 2600. This difference was just not enough for me to calmly put the wall panel from floor to ceiling. But perfect solution it came quickly - foam trimmings! I cut out the missing 4cm bars from it and placed the panels on them. Thus the problem was solved. The plinth was attached easily, because. Penoplex trimmings were not all over the perimeter of the floor.

The corners will later be covered with decorative corner strips.

Lathing of the column with a bar 40x10.

Slopes and steps.

The same support bar on the crate.

The peak of a creative day!

The panel joints at the corners will no longer be closed with paper MDF corners, but with durable plastic ones.

When everything was ready, proceeded to the furniture. Markup under wall cabinets including mortgages.
Glue the butt corners last.

The ceiling is not yet completely ready, because. while I wait until they bring new panels to replace those damaged by the seller, only a couple of boards were missing.

Where does the furniture come from? kitchen furniture hung out with the apartment. After two unsuccessful attempts to sell it, I thought, why did I sell it, if it fits so well on my balcony. At wall cabinets I just changed the order, and sawed half the tables 60 cm deep, but more on that later.

We turn to the device of warm floors. This time I decided to use Caleo tape floors. All according to the technology described in detail by the manufacturer. The first layer is a lavsan (not foil!) reflector.

The joints of the strips are connected with ordinary tape.

Next, we lay out thermal film mats. Keep in mind in terms of area that if there are beveled sides in the room, then the mats, of course, can only be laid with a ladder, on a much smaller area. For an area of ​​9 meters, you will need about a 5-6-meter kit.

The view becomes completely cosmic. Floor strips are fixed with ordinary adhesive tape. Do it securely, they move easily.

The connection of the strips is parallel, as the manufacturer claims, it will be easy to change them at any time. On my own behalf, I’ll add that this convenience is conditional, when you put the laminate and put all the furniture, the very idea of ​​disassembling it all will seem a little attractive ... The only thing that unpleasantly surprised me in this wonderful set was completely idiotic crimp terminals. It seems that in the age of self-clamping terminals, they could do something like WAGO products. But no - you have to crimp the twisted wire, and then see how it all falls out at the slightest load. I fiddled with each clamp for a long time, every time I think whether to solder it to hell.

And only then lay the laminate. At this stage, I realized that one still can’t cope when you have to gain a line of boards of almost six meters! Prochertyhavshis couple of hours, "made a call to a friend." My friend and I installed laminate flooring in less than three hours. And yes, by the way, do not buy wax in tubes, supposedly to protect the laminate. If it hardens, and you want to reposition the boards or get rid of the gap that suddenly appears, then the problem will be real, the "wax" hardens in the manner of Moment glue, and the entire edge of the board can no longer be cleaned properly, and, accordingly, high-quality laying.

Plinths, this is quite a trifling matter.

The floors are ready.

Due to the softness of the MDF corners and the rigidity of the U-shaped plastic ceiling profile, I sacrificed aestheticism and fixed them with small self-tapping screws. I made the docking in the corner according to the principle of rectangular cuts, in my opinion, it is easier than maintaining the ideal 45 degrees (especially when the walls are not strictly perpendicular).

We return to the subject of furniture. I sawed some of the tables with a depth of 60 cm, sorted out the bottle holder by a minimum of 14 cm, added muskets made from free chipboard, which the Ronikon company somehow nicely presented to me. (Wonderful story, somehow they brought a built-in wardrobe to the last apartment, with a depth of 10 cm less than described in the contract, they brought new wardrobe, but they didn’t take the boards for the old one, so I got a huge amount of chipboard material, from which I made 2 cabinets and a rack :)

For the balcony tables, in principle, everything was there, only the countertops were missing. I ordered two three-meter ones with a cut. Even their very remains came in handy as well - for example, this small shelf of 10 cm.
Half L-shaped table was ready, and sawed half of what was. Put it all together and came out a beautiful table. What is important for the warm floor, all the furniture on the balcony now stands on legs.

The level of the table came out perfectly in all directions even without adjusting the legs! Everyone was waiting for the moment of unity!

The lamps also moved from the prola apartment. A computer place, monitor, printer, audio is planned in the right corner.
On the left - a drawing place, a copy table (made from a broken scanner) and everything else for manual graphics.
Three windows opposite will be covered with blackout roller blinds, with complete light blocking (important for working with a computer).

And this is the "department" of the workshop. Three meter workbench. In this table, only two left bedside tables were ready. The rest was mercilessly cut from 60 cm to 30 cm for everything I need.

Tabletop 36 cm.

Corner connections.

Step.

When buying a countertop, I asked a neighboring seller if there was any cheaper plywood for a workbench? He went to the rack, pulled out a single board and said, just like that, 35 cm! I say she was waiting for me! This is the base for working with wood, and the plastic kitchen plinth protects the mdf panels.

I put a board with the so-called "carver's vise" on it. I wanted to saw off, but the idea came again, to make a mobile carving tray.

Which was made within an hour from improvised materials. I sawed out a couple of combs, set the limiters for the vices and built up the back.

As a test, I laid out more tool. Everything was arranged freely and quite conveniently. The steel washer of the vise is covered with plywood to protect the blade from damage during dismounting.

And a bar is attached on top, which can be very convenient for cutting out small elements (in particular, the sawn corners of my dragon, I sawed it out on it). The entire tray is fastened together with a plywood base with a pair of clamps to the table top. And can be removed and moved to another location.

Along the way, I pasted the foam on the board, for work where you need to tap something with less noise. The publication is placed on the foam, the shock sound is extinguished noticeably stronger.

Either from a new kitchen, or from something else - I found just such a thing ... amazing handy thing was born. Now I have a dozen of all sorts of devices there, from clamps to scissors, and vacuum cleaner hose holders! The hose holder, as you know, is a leather strap with a carabiner from my wife's unnecessary bag :) in general, everything is in order. The vacuum cleaner turns on with your foot and reaches anywhere.

The internal filling of the table does not interfere at all with the case if I sit on a chair and place my legs here.

Bottom view. On the left, there are shelves for a sharpener, boxes with wood trimmings, and other useful things.

The tabletop had a cutoff of 24 centimeters. I looked at it, looked, well, is there really nowhere to use it? And again the thought, but how - I will make an overhead table on the windowsill. It is not fixed by anything, it can be carefully lifted and removed, but in general there is no point in removing it already, everything has become so convenient. Sewed to him a side of centimeter beam. Along the way, such pleasant little things as a pencil holder and rulers were born.

After all, it is sometimes convenient to immediately attach a part to it, as to a measuring column. Or remove the line in a second.
On top of the drill is a "microscope", which will be discussed below.

Another nice little thing was the idea of ​​​​storing the level - under the windowsill is the place. And others - on hangers at the room window.

In the section of the workshop I hung white roller blinds, they do not reduce the illumination, but they well extinguish all sharp glare and reflections on a sunny day.

I put in both sections on the lamp-bracket. Very convenient, reaches in both directions for the entire length of the desktop.

As a final chord, he hung his first woodwork - the coat of arms of Dürer, the May Queen and the dragon, which fit perfectly across the width of the column.

Computer-drawing section.

Work in the evening.

Amazing feeling, I have a lot of space, everything is in its place, everything is comfortable ...
Work on insulation and finishing is quite within the power of one person to perform within 2-3 weeks, without much haste and without unnecessary expenses.

A few words about the drill. There was an old microscope at home, which somehow had not yet been used. In a couple of minutes, the microscope is now turning into an excellent drilling machine. Made a primitive wooden block, fixed the transmission unit of the microscope on it, the drill itself is inserted tightly and easily from above, like in a glass - one second, it does not hang out, it can be easily removed. My father made a machine tool from a microscope, but more solid - he separately took a cartridge, an engine and calculated and assembled the entire electrical circuit himself. (Someone can, of course, buy a standard Micromot holder, but I don’t have it, but I have a microscope)))

For example, I drilled a toothpick with a drill) 0.5 mm. Then I cut it with a 20mm cutter.

The bracket allows you to work at any angle - the move is tight and smooth (later I will make a degree marking).

Here is a workshop.

And these are my future masters! :)

Thank you for your attention!

Finished workshop last week. I think the experience of its manufacture will be useful for lovers of crafts. So, a workshop with a width of 800, a height of 2400 and a depth of 600 mm was installed on a loggia insulated with foam plastic.

Structurally, it consists of three parts - the lower one, for heavy tools, the middle one, the actual workplace, and the mezzanine, for drawings and reference literature.

The lower part, 700 mm high, is divided by a vertical partition for easy attachment of smaller shelves. After the completion of the work, it turned out that there was nowhere to remove the compressor and the lower part had to be rescheduled and redone.

After the alteration, it was possible to pack a serious compressor (170l per minute), a refrigerator compressor, an electric drill, an electric drill into a space of 800 by 700 and 600 mm. jigsaw, grinder, planers, plumbing tools, circular saw, sharpener, drilling machine, lathe, boxes of paints and small things, and there is not much space left behind the lathe, closer to the back wall.
The middle part is conditionally divided vertically to a depth of 300 +300 mm.

Of which, the front 300 mm is the workshop itself, and the rear ones are a warehouse of useful small things and materials, the height of the middle part is 1200 mm


The workshop itself (front 300 mm) has a table, opens like a secretary, leaning on the open doors of the lower part, the size of the table is 800 by 600 mm, hinged to a rigidly installed shelf - coupler, screwed with screws into the end, through the wall. The connection between the shelf and the wall is reinforced with metal corners.

A lamp is installed on the shelf, which has a vertical axis of rotation, and in the depth of the floor there is a shelf where you can put unfinished parts and work. The main shelves - with a step of 300 mm. Between them there are five semi-shelves made in the form drawers 300 mm wide. 50 - 60 mm high which can be interchanged or removed altogether, which provides a convenient approach to the warehouse of materials in depth.

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The doors of the lower part, on which the desktop rests, are supported by wooden wedges to the floor to prevent them from sagging. The middle part is closed by a table and upper doors, also hung on ordinary hinges. In the retracted state, the table is fixed with an ordinary hook, on outside right wall, and the doors - with magnetic latches.

The mezzanine, 500 mm high, was assembled separately, and after the cabinet was installed and screwed to the wall, (through metal corner To top panel cover) is put in place and screwed to the top cover of the workshop.

I cut panels and shelves according to pre-measured dimensions right in the store, at the place where the chipboard was purchased. All the pleasure amounted to about 2900 rubles, along with transportation.

Collected front side to the bottom, right on the balcony, first I pulled the box, the top and bottom covers with screws into the end of the walls, then installed the vertical partition of the lower part together with the table shelf screwed to it, then sewed the back wall and raised it to a vertical position. I hope this experience will be useful to someone. Unfortunately, I dismantled the former small but comfortable workshop, located in the kitchen, without having thought to take a picture.

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