The ax is one of the oldest tools used by man in his activities. He passed long haul, accompanying the evolution of man from the stone ancestor to modern product from steel itself High Quality. The scope of application of this tool has the widest range of all kinds industrial production, and for home use. The need for its use will not decrease in the near future.
Tool classification
Depending on the area of application, they may have different shape designs and size.
The specialization of this tool can be classified as follows:
- Lumberjack's axe.
- Large and small carpenter's axe.
- Cleaver for harvesting firewood.
- Tourist or hunting camp hatchet.
- Hatchet for the kitchen.
- All kinds of souvenir axes imitating ancient military weapons.
- Sports tomahawk for throwing at targets.
- Firemen's axe.
- Butcher's axe.
Some design differences
Specialization may give rise to some design differences between axes, but basically any of them consists of two parts: a working chopping metal part and a handle attached to it, called an ax handle. The ax handle is mainly made of wood.
Some models of tourist and kitchen samples can be made entirely of metal with wooden or plastic overlays to give the flat metal handle the required shape.
The lumberjack's tool is distinguished by a rounded blade and an elongated axe. It is most often used for preparing brushwood from branches. A special type of ax, a splitting ax, is used to prepare firewood from logs. His metal part more massive than ordinary axes, and has a more obtuse angle of the pointed chopping part.
The firemen's weapon also has a longer ax handle. In addition, the back side of the metal part, called the butt, may differ significantly for such axes. U ordinary tools it is simply flat, but for firefighters this part can be made in the form of a hook or a sharp narrow wedge.
The butt of a kitchen hatchet is usually made in the form of a hammer for beating meat, and the ax handle is round cross section manufactured at lathe.
Carpenter's axes
This type of ax is probably the most used in the world. Even with modern technologies no construction can be completed without such an ancient tool. Its versatility is unique.
Carpenter's axes are large, they are used for chipping logs, for making all kinds of notches during construction wooden houses and other buildings.
Small hatchets that are used for smaller jobs.
The chopping blade of carpenter's axes is usually smooth and very sharp.
There are various types of ax handle. Its shape generally depends on the personal preferences of the owner, aimed mainly at ease of working with such a tool. Often a good ax is the face of a carpenter as a specialist. Good master values this instrument more than any other. Therefore, he never uses a purchased ax, but makes it for himself. However, in in capable hands it has to be changed very rarely.
Manufacturing methods
For ordinary person you have to use an ax most often when working on summer cottage. Here, along with the work inherent in such a tool, not very qualified workers are used to various works. Therefore, axes, as a rule, do not withstand prolonged use, and they have to be changed quite often.
The most suitable material for the handle is birch. It is durable, relatively light and smooth material to work with. For zealous owners, it will be useful to place birch bars to dry. Birch should be dried for a long time, at least 3-5 years, and always out of exposure to sunlight. To make a good ax handle, you will need well-dried birch. Otherwise, it will dry out in the ax itself, the handle will begin to dangle, which can lead to significant inconvenience in work and injury.
There are several in various ways how to make an ax handle correctly. But all of them can be divided depending on technological equipment:
- Using electric woodworking mechanisms ( a circular saw, planing machine, various types grinding).
- Manually from ready-made boards using a plane, rasp, and so on.
- Handmade from birch logs.
- With a minimum of tools.
Technological production of an ax handle
First of all, the necessary blank is cut out on woodworking machines. All its dimensions (width, thickness and length) are made with a small margin for further adjustment.
The thickness and width are determined by the size of the ax's entrance hole, which is called the eye and is located at the bottom. It must be remembered that the upper outlet hole is much wider than the lower one, and they should not be confused when taking measurements.
For the convenience of further processing, it is advisable to plan the workpiece to planer, to make its cross-section close to a triangular shape with an acute angle at the bottom of the future ax. Using a cardboard template, a drawing of an ax of the chosen shape is applied to the workpiece. A template can be made by making a drawing according to the dimensions of an old broken tool, or you can find a suitable shape of an ax in specialized literature or on the Internet.
It is most convenient to cut rounded areas using electric jigsaw. Next, smooth out all the corners using a wide chisel and pre-grind the product. It is not worth processing it completely to working condition, because if it is directly connected to the metal part of the tool, when significant forces and impacts are applied, the wood may split, and all the final finishing work will be done in vain.
Mechanical grinding should be done on a flat surface. Using a regular stone sharpening disc is not effective. It is better to make a special disk, with the same hole in the center as the corresponding sharpening stone.
It is better to use the material for the circle from hard electrically insulating plastic, at least 5 mm thick. Sandpaper is glued onto it using PVA glue. You should know that you should only use waterproof paper. A simple one will quickly break. In addition, the circle is covered with waterproof sandpaper, can be washed to remove wood dust hot water. Therefore, if such a circle is made from plywood, then washing it will be problematic. Plywood can become deformed when exposed to water.
On such a wheel it will be convenient to grind the smooth and convex parts of the axe, especially the part that is inserted inside the ax. This must be done very evenly so as not to weaken the thickness. wooden part.
For sanding internal curves, it is good to have a vertical sander. You can also make equipment for it yourself. To do this, you will need to turn a wooden cylinder on a lathe with a through internal hole corresponding to the shaft of the engine being used, and paste it on the outside with waterproof sandpaper.
The finished cylinder should be tightly placed on the shaft of a vertically mounted engine. For grinding the ax itself, the diameter of the cylinder is not so important, but the thickness of the walls from the inner hole to the outer surface should be quite massive, at least 10-15 mm.
Ax head
The upper edge of the ax, which should be inserted inside the ax, is made slightly conical so that it fits tightly enough. Before this, perpendicular axial lines are drawn at the end so that during the work, focusing on their location, the workpiece does not skew in any direction.
Before the final mounting of the ax, a cut is made under the wedge. Its depth should not exceed the width of the ax itself.
How to properly place an ax on an ax handle is shown in the figure:
It is possible to make a wooden wedge from another, softer type of wood, which is more susceptible to compression than birch. To prevent the wedge from jumping out of the ax handle even at the slightest drying, it is advisable to lubricate it with waterproof glue. This is necessary in case the ax gets into water.
After the wooden one, you can additionally wedge it with a metal wedge. Such wedges are specially forged in a forge, making notches along its edges for better adhesion to the wood.
It happens that the upper hole of the ax is larger than the lower one not only in thickness, but also in width. Small gaps remain on the side of the inserted axe, into which additional wooden wedges also have to be driven.
If the connection of the ax with the ax handle went well, proceed to the final finishing of the wood using finer-grained sandpaper. This process is done manually.
Making an ax by hand
Despite the apparent complexity of this process, it is quite possible for a more or less skilled owner to make an ax handle without using electrified equipment. Especially if there are boards of the appropriate size available. If there are no boards, then the blank on the ax handle can be cut out of a birch log. The log for these purposes should be selected, if possible, without knots and with a straight-layer structure.
To grind the ax handle using sandpaper, it must be secured in a vice. Cut narrow, fairly long strips of sanding material. They will be very convenient for the grinding process, wrapping strips around the ax and moving the ends of the strip back and forth. In this position working surface sandpaper fits tightly to the surface being processed without special effort from the human side.
Working with purchased axes
If a person does not want to bother making an ax handle on his own, ready-made samples are always available for sale. Of course, serious manufacturers of such parts know well how to make an ax handle correctly. But still, when buying it, you should adhere to some rules so as not to 
make mistakes. First of all, you should very carefully measure the entrance hole of the existing ax. The discrepancies in sizes between different axes are sometimes very significant and individual, especially if this tool was taken from my grandfather’s stock. The main condition is that the dimensions of the acquired ax should not be less than the required values.
You should also pay attention to the quality of the wood of the finished ax handle. The density of the structure, the presence of cracks and the possibility of chipping when inserting it.
Work with a purchased ax will be limited to adjusting its end part, which directly fits into the eye.
Sharpening and operation
Carpenter's axes require the most careful sharpening. It's okay if the sharpness of these tools allows you to sharpen a pencil or even make a toothpick.
Before sharpening the cutting edge of the ax, you need to check the hardness of the metal and, if it turns out to be too soft, you will need to additionally harden the ax by exposure high temperatures. It is best to do this in a forge, trusting a professional specialist.
The tool blade is sharpened after connecting it to the wooden handle.
Like an ax, the picture below explains.
Useful instructions
The correct use of an ax can be described by following some basic rules:
- Try not to cut metal products.
- Carefully check the wood being processed for the presence of foreign solid objects in its body.
- Do not use the tool in a capacity that is not inherent to it: as a lever, hoe or shovel.
- Do not throw the tool onto a hard surface, especially from a great height.
- Do not store it for a long time open place exposed to sunlight or in an extremely humid place.
At careful attitude the ax and its wooden handle will serve for a long time and please its owner.
An ax is one of the most famous and accessible tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in excellent results. You can not only buy an ax ready-made in a specialized store, but also make it at home. This will not take much time, effort and Money. Today we will look in detail at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.
How to select and prepare wood?
Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models there are quite a lot of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible to suit any requirement.
But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.
Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an axe. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.
Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to turn to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and others deciduous trees related to hard rocks. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high-quality handles. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.
The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only under natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet longer (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place with good ventilation. To the space where it will be prepared natural material, precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate. Otherwise, such drying simply won’t do any good, and you won’t be able to make a good axe.
How to make a template?
If you have the material already prepared and dried to the required degree, then you should move on to next stage creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template that will become a great assistant in further works.
Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict standards regulating the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. Thus, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that everything existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.
So, they highlight the following types these tools:
- carpentry;
- lumberjack;
- knotty;
- cleaver;
- butcher's
Before you start independent design such a tool, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with detailed drawings of different models of handles.
When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.
- So that during the work the ax handle does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the gripping point.
- When making an ax for a cleaver, you need to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches 0.5 m.
- Another 8-10 cm should be added to the handle length parameter for the butt for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree does not begin to split at this moment.
The template with its correct shape and all dimensions will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.
Step-by-step manufacturing instructions
It is not difficult to prepare an ax handle with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to a not very complex technology for carrying out work. Let's get acquainted with it:
- mark the workpiece using a template;
- after this it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
- Next, the prepared part will need to be turned to special machine and grinding.
There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to as work progresses.
- Processing the fixing area of the ax must be done as carefully and carefully as possible, so as not to accidentally remove excess part of the wood. Otherwise, the butt simply will not be able to be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle against the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
- You should not use a file while finishing the part. This will lead to inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper and a grinder rather than a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
- Give final, correct and beautiful shape the fixing point of the handle is necessary, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, the specified angle for it should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax – 75 degrees.
At self-production the ax must be used very carefully. There's no need to rush. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, you will need to correctly install the cutting part on it.
Let's look at how this should be done.
- Adjust the top of the piece to the eye of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
- On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part should be placed on top. Then you need to make a mark on the handle with a pencil until it will be driven in. Divide the segment and make another mark.
- Secure the handle in a vertical position using a vice. The wide part should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second wedge mark.
- At a specialized retail outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
- Place the board on a separate tabletop. Point the blade at it. Place it upside down. Place the prepared ax handle over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the tool over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to be seated. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, you will be able to thoroughly drive the ax into the eye.
- Then place the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge into the cut. Hammer it in with a mallet. Saw off any excess protruding parts
How to protect against rotting?
The wood from which the ax handle is made, like other similar materials, is susceptible to rotting. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of your homemade ax in advance, protecting it from rotting. It is strongly not recommended to use compositions such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.
The optimal solution other suitable impregnations will be available to protect the ax from rotting. Can cover the handle linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics, which will extend the service life natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this procedure.
Some masters add to antiseptic protective equipment red pigment. People turn to such tricks not at all to make the instrument more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.
Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross-section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, you can successfully hold it without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.
Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood to build an axe. As a result, this ends up with the handle changing in size, and metal part with the butt it stays on very poorly. It is permissible to handle undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.
When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing/template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.
It is permissible to begin sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax handle.
It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.
It is strongly recommended not to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax under open air. Precipitation or aggressive Sun rays may negatively affect the quality of the wooden part. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.
IN Lately There is a real boom in blacksmithing. Young people are becoming blacksmiths. The knives and axes made by their hands are real works of art.
Nothing is impossible
Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, this turns out to be much more difficult.
In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, holes for the eye. Not everyone has such a set of tools. Of course, you can make a forge and punches, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.
Making an ax using the metalwork method
Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the metalworking method. The ax consists of three parts:
- ax blade
- ax handle
If everything is clear with the materials for making an ax and a wedge, then the question of what, and most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the blade consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:
- metal strip for blade
- piece of pipe for butt
Blade
The full size drawing will show the quantity required material. For the blade you need hard metal, for example, a car spring.
We transfer the outline of the drawing to the spring and saw off all the excess. We also make descents using a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal so that the edge remains hard and holds an edge well.
Butt
For the butt of a medium ax you will need a pipe with internal diameter 38-40 mm. It is better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it up, for example gas burner, and compress it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.
Assembly of the canvas
The blade and butt are connected by welding. It is important to weld the metal thoroughly so that the ax does not crack during operation.
Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, and grind again. For additional strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.
Toporische
A good ax requires the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made from, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.
The most common wood for making ax handles is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping wood, but for the soul, then you should look for a type of wood with a more expressive texture.
Wood for an ax
An ax handle made of ash, elm, or hornbeam will look very beautiful. It’s just difficult to buy boards made from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use online trading.
The wood for the ax must be well dried and free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature within six months
The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to custom, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.
Action plan
Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A compiled list of actions will help you avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.
Note! 
The step-by-step process on how to make a pen at home will look like this:
- drawing up a sketch of an ax and a template
- wood processing
- ax attachment
- finishing coating.
Sketch and template of an ax
For comfortable work, the ax handle is made about 50-70 cm. Having drawn a full-size sketch, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.
Roughing
Using the template, we outline the outline of the handle on the wood and cut out the blank. Give the handle a more rounded shape. For these purposes, you can use a plane, chisels or a small hatchet.
Fit
The next stage in making an ax handle is adjusting the shape and ergonomics. We grind the wood to give it the correct shape and comfortable grip.
A large rasp, as well as a power grinding tool, are perfect for these purposes. The main thing here is not to loosen the place where the ax fits on the ax handle.
Note! 
Sanding and assembly
After rough processing, sand the handle with sandpaper and make a slot for the wedge. Place the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise placing the wedge on glue or epoxy resin. The choice is yours.
Finishing
The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The wood can be covered with stain or left as is. Protective layer applied with oil or varnish.
For greater exclusivity, the ax handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire notches. A pattern etched in a saline solution will look beautiful on the ax blade.
Conclusion
It is very easy to purchase an ax for chopping wood, and there is no need to make it yourself for these purposes. Homemade axes are more used as a subject of creativity, but it is capable of fulfilling its direct duties.
Some independent specimens will give industrial designs a run for their money, giving owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.
Photo of a homemade ax
Note! 
Do-it-yourself hatchet, drawing and detailed description products.
Types of wood used for the ax hardwood, best suited:
Ash
Jatoba
hickory
oak
beech
birch
maple
The fracture strength of the product is ensured by the position of the wood fibers in the workpiece from which the ax handle will be made.
Let's look at the picture, which shows the position of the workpiece relative to the cutting plane of the barrel or chock. As you can see, the workpiece is placed outside the center of the tree trunk.
When choosing (chocks), you must remember that the area is free of chips, knots, cracks and rot.
We split off the workpiece from the block required sizes, and send it to dry.
The best option, if drying is carried out under natural conditions, in a ventilated area and for a long time.
The moisture content of wood after drying should be 8...12%.
Let's start making the ax handle according to the drawing:
1. Let's prepare a workpiece of the required size.
2. Let's transfer the outline from the drawing to the workpiece.
The deviation of the fiber arrangement from the longitudinal axis along the workpiece should not exceed 5°
3. Let's cut out the outline of the product according to the dimensions of the drawing.
4. Smooth out the sharp edges and round the corners.
The handle of the product must be perfectly smooth and oval
the bottom of the ax is thickened and rounded
the top of the ax is adjusted to the eye of the attached blade.
5. We will treat the product with an antiseptic.