There is no summer resident who has not met wheatgrass. This perennial weed quickly spreads over the ground and causes a lot of trouble to summer residents. Therefore, most of them are puzzled about how to get rid of wheatgrass in the garden. That's what we'll talk about today.

First, let's get to know the weed. Creeping couch grass is a grass that has a creeping branched root that can go as deep as 20 cm. It very quickly occupies large areas, thanks to its roots, since the root system of the plant captures an area of ​​​​about 3 meters.

Wheatgrass grows on any soil, it propagates by seeds and pieces of roots, is resistant to dry and frosty weather, and is unpretentious. Its seeds can germinate in March. For this, only +3 degrees C is enough. Here are all his “merits” that allow us to consider this weed malicious.

The fight against wheatgrass, as with all malicious weeds, must be carried out in several directions.. It could be:

• mechanical destruction (mowing and weeding);
• digging the earth;
• mulching thickets;
• exposure to chemicals;
• green manure plants;
• folk ways.

It is impossible to say for sure which method is better and more effective. Each of them has positive and negative sides, and today we will try to dwell on each of them in more detail.

mowing

It is necessary to mow and weed out the grass several times during the summer. This method will allow you to remove wheatgrass only for a while, since most of the roots will remain in the ground and continue to develop and spread.

Digging

Digging up the ground, and then picking out roots from it, is long and tiring. In addition, this method does not guarantee that you will forever forget how to deal with wheatgrass. Cut and broken roots from the ground you will not completely choose anyway, and after a while they will begin a new life.

But quantity weed grass, will certainly decrease, and if you are persistent and consistent, then positive results will not be as soon as we would like, however.

Mulching

This is enough reliable way get rid of the weed. Mulch stops access sun rays and air to growing weeds and prevents seeds from germinating. It reliably protects the garden from unwanted vegetation.

Mulching material can be:

• cellophane or non-woven fiber;
• sawdust;
• gravel, expanded clay;
• cut grass, hay;
• any available material.

It takes time and patience to remove dense thickets of wheatgrass. It will take about 4 months to achieve the result. If you want to destroy it in the beds, then the order of work will be as follows.

1. First of all, we mark the beds for vegetables.
2. We carefully cover the earth on the marked beds with a film from weeds or with what is at hand. On top of the covering material we cover a thick layer of straw.
3. After 3-4 months, we remove the covering material and proceed to tillage.
4. You can start getting rid of weeds by mulching even in late autumn. Before winter, the plots are mulched, and by the time you need to start planting, all that remains is to cultivate the soil and select the remaining roots.

herbicides

If you are tired of unequal weed control, and do not know how to get wheatgrass out of the garden, then try using herbicides. In practice, they have long shown that they quickly and effectively destroy weeds. When spraying, the reagents penetrate the leaves, spread along the stem of the plant, penetrate the roots and destroy weeds.

Important! When choosing herbicides, you should know exactly what you want: to remove all plants or just certain types weeds.

If your goal is to get rid of the plants on the path and clean it completely or clean the gaps between the tiles, then you should use preparations continuous action. Usually on large garden plantings, lawns use preparations of selective action on certain types weeds.

Today, various chemical products are sold in retail chains for gardeners who are puzzling over how to get rid of wheatgrass in the garden.

These are drugs such as:

• Agrokiller;
• ground;
• Fusilad Forte.

These preparations are low toxic and are actively used. The toxic liquid makes its way into the plant, and after a week gets to its roots. The land is also cultivated in preventive purposes. The liquid for processing is prepared according to the instructions. It will help you get rid of weeds in your area.

Important! Asking the question: “How to destroy wheatgrass?” and armed for it chemicals to remove wheatgrass, sow thistle and other unwanted guests on your site, do not forget that by killing weeds, you are simultaneously harming the earth and its inhabitants.

Vegetables growing in such a land will still feel the effects of chemistry for a long time. It is believed that such drugs can be used in one place no more than once every three years.

Using chemicals precautions must be taken: wear clothing that will prevent the drug from getting on the body.

EM drugs

Along with powerful herbicides that allow you to fight weeds, new preparations have been developed that do not destroy the soil and its inhabitants. Scientists have identified microorganisms that feed on residual organic matter.

They are called EM preparations (effective microorganisms). When processing the soil with these preparations, the soil does not lose its properties. Moreover, the soil and its microflora are able to recover without the use of traditional methods agricultural technology and digging. When EM preparations get on the roots of weeds, they die from EM fermentation, and the effective microorganisms themselves are an excellent microbiological fertilizer.

Of the EM preparations intended for soil cultivation, the following can be highlighted:

• Baikal EM-1;
• Shine;
• Renaissance;
• Tamir;
• Emix;
• EM molasses;
• Humazate EM-universal.

siderates

With the help of green manure plants, you can defeat the annoying wheatgrass weed. This method of ridding the land of wheatgrass and other weeds is called organic tillage. Sowing green manure plants on the site does not affect its ecological state in any way. On the contrary, the site is cleared of weeds, and at the same time the soil improves and aeration occurs.

Here are the most famous green manure plants:

• phacelia;
• mustard sarepta;
• rape;
• lupine;
• buckwheat;
• peas;
• clover;
• rye.

The soil on the site should be plowed shallowly and green manure plants should be sown a month before planting. You can sow them after harvest. Siderates will grow, preventing the root system of wheatgrass from growing, will force out the weeds from the garden and clean it. Beveled green manure and embedded in the ground have the ability to improve its quality, increase fertility and contribute to its aeration.

Folk remedies

All means are good to destroy the creeping couch grass, and the measures to combat it are different. This and modern drugs, and folk remedies, which include:

• soda;
• salt;
• blowtorch;
• lemon acid;
• vinegar.

Here are some of the most famous and easily accessible recipes.

Soda

Baking soda is sold in all stores. It is quite aggressive and can destroy individual bushes of couch grass, thistle thistle and other weeds on the paths between the tiles. All you need is to make a strong solution of soda and pour grass over it.

Salt

Edible salt - cheap way get rid of weeds. Salt should be sprinkled on weeds. During watering, the salt will soak into the ground and significantly slow down the growth of young weeds.

Blowtorch

It effectively burns wheat grass in the garden on the entire surface of the earth, but, unfortunately, the root system suffers little from its impact.

Ethanol

Ethyl alcohol must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and cultivate the land. This mixture (11 liters) can be processed from 2 to 2.5 acres of land.

This method should be used a month before planting the garden. On the site, which was processed in this way, there will be no weeds during the spring-summer season.

Lemon acid

We take 1 liter hot water, it is necessary to dissolve 3 tablespoons of lemon in it. Treatment of weeds with this solution should be done on quiet sunny days.

Vinegar

• vinegar (15-20%) - 4 liters (maybe a little less);
• table salt - ½ cup;
• detergent (any) - 1 teaspoon (with it the solution will stick better).

All ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and grass is generously sprinkled. Processing should be done in the morning in dry weather. The vinegar mixture is a rather aggressive agent, so you need to use it carefully so that it does not get on cultural plantings.

Creeping wheatgrass is a perennial rhizomatous plant of the Bluegrass family (cereals) is one of the most difficult to eradicate and harmful weeds. Underground shoots of it (the awl) penetrate through potato tubers, making them unmarketable. The root system of wheatgrass releases toxic substances that inhibit the growth of cultivated plants. In addition, the thickets of this weed serve as a shelter (reservoir) for many pests (wireworms, scoops, beetle larvae) and diseases (rust, ergot, root rot, viruses). In connection with this fight against couch grass, give Special attention.

The main mass of couch grass rhizomes is formed in the upper (15 cm) soil layer. Their length reaches 1000 km per hectare, on these rhizomes up to 40 million renewal buds. Buds germinate throughout the growing season. Crushing the rhizomes into small parts increases the number of buds by 80-90%, since a small segment of the rhizome 1.5-2 cm long, having only one bud, can germinate and form a new plant. But when the segments are embedded in the soil to a depth of 30 cm, all the wheatgrass buds die. Therefore, direct the methods of dealing with creeping wheatgrass to destroy the rhizomes of the weed, do not let it catch on. Do not use poorly rotted manure, do not bring in soil from "dusty" areas, do not allow it to spread from neighboring areas, weed out its sprouts every 10-12 days.

Destroy the rhizomes of the wheatgrass can be such agrotechnical methods as exhaustion, drying, suffocation. Depletion: immediately after harvesting the cultivated crops, disk the soil in two directions (longitudinal and transverse), respectively, to a depth of 8-12 and 12-15 cm. or plow the soil (27-30 cm). Drying: Remove the rhizomes from the soil with a rake or harrow, leave them on the surface for 25-30 days, then plant them to a depth of 27-30 cm, from where they cannot germinate. Suffocation: in places of focal distribution of couch grass (at the beginning of the spring regrowth of the weed), cover the area with the old plastic wrap or cardboard, sprinkle a layer of soil 5-7 cm thick on top to completely shade the plants. Deprived of light and moisture, creeping wheatgrass dies in 30-40 days.

To control wheatgrass and other weeds, 3-4 weeks before sowing or planting crops, use preparations based on glyphosate - raumdap, hurricane, etc. at a rate of 30-50 ml, diluted in 5 liters of water per 100 m 2 (prepare the solution for pure unsalted water). When spraying, completely exclude the ingress of herbicides on the leafy mass of cultivated plants. The height of wheatgrass at the time of processing should not be more than 15-20 cm.

Anticereal herbicides Fuziladsuper, nabu, targa-super, etc. (40-50 ml, diluted in 5 l of water for spraying 100 m 2) are highly effective in the fight against creeping couch grass. Use them on vegetable and gourd crops, potatoes, sugar and fodder beet, sunflower, tobacco, in gardens and vineyards - on all cultures of the dicotyledonous class. Do not use these herbicides on cereals, cereals and corn. Plan to spray herbicides in the spring on growing crops (regardless of their stage of development) during the period when the height of the wheatgrass does not exceed 20 cm. The preparations quickly penetrate the leaves and root system weed and after 2-3 weeks completely dry up its rhizomes. During this time, do not loosen the soil, so as not to reduce the efficiency of processing.

The herbicides recommended for the control of couch grass do not pose a risk to humans, animals and environment, they quickly disintegrate after application. When working with them, strictly follow the safety regulations.

A hot topic for all gardeners is weeds. How much time is spent on them. It seems to have weeded everything recently, you see, they climbed out again, especially after the rain. The most unpleasant and tenacious of all weeds is wheatgrass. Nature endowed him with a special vitality. Its roots seem thin and fragile, but this does not prevent them from growing even through thick wood. If the site is covered with wheatgrass, then removing it is quite difficult, very time consuming. How to get wheatgrass out of the garden if it has been growing for many years and has become like a carpet. Is it possible to stop his “invasion and get rid of this wheatgrass forever?

Brief description of wheatgrass

First, let's get to know the weed. Creeping couch grass is a grass that has a creeping branched root that can go as deep as 20 cm. It very quickly occupies large areas, thanks to its roots, since the root system of the plant captures an area of ​​​​about 3 meters. Wheatgrass grows on any soil, it propagates by seeds and pieces of roots, is resistant to dry and frosty weather, and is unpretentious. Its seeds can germinate in March. For this, only +3 degrees C is enough. Here are all his “merits” that allow us to consider this weed malicious.

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How to get rid of wheatgrass on the site with agrotechnical means

Often, gardeners are looking for ways to do without herbicides. Multiple ways to get rid of wheatgrass grass in the garden are aimed at weakening its growth and reproduction intensity. For example, couch grass does not tolerate shading: if the area where it grows freely is covered with a dense black film, a layer of earth, peat, straw is poured on top so that its sprouts are further oppressed, by autumn this plot can be cleared of weeds.

Some plants help to get rid of wheatgrass, next to which it simply cannot grow. After plowing a plot with wheatgrass and sowing it:

• corn;
• peas;
• sunflower;
• beans.

Sowing oats on a plot will help not only destroy wheatgrass in the garden, but also significantly fertilize the soil that it depletes:

1. Dig overgrown area, cut furrows every 15 cm, sow oats.
2. Give the oats the opportunity to grow, mow, leave on the surface of the site. After a couple of days, dig, cut the furrows again, sow the grass again.
3. Mow the grown oats, and sow in the same place a third time. This number of procedures is enough to get rid of couch grass and, by planting cut oats in the ground, fertilize it with organic matter.

The benefit of this method is also that it helps to get rid of the wireworm that inhabits areas with wheatgrass. You can try to sow oats with vetch or peas, which gives very good results.

How to get rid of wheatgrass on the site with chemicals

Green pest control chemicals have proven their effectiveness and speed of action. Systemic chemicals penetrate the entire plant when sprayed and are detrimental to the weed. The choice of herbicide should be based on the goal of achieving the effect: continuous removal all plants in a given area or selective exposure. If you need to remove all the plants on the path or between paving slabs- apply herbicides of continuous action. On lawns, large areas of garden crops, drugs of selective action on certain types of weeds are used.

Online stores and specialized horticultural centers offer big choice chemical reagents to combat wheatgrass:

• Roundup;
• Hurricane Forte;
• Agrokiller;
• Glyphos;
• Tornado;
• ground;
• Fusilad Forte.

Chemical methods of influencing wheatgrass are effective, but one should not forget that by removing the "annoying" weed from the garden with the help of herbicides, a person causes irreparable damage to the living soil and its inhabitants. Plants planted on such land long time will be exposed to these reagents. According to scientists, herbicides in one area should not be used more than once every three years. When working with chemical herbicides, personal protective equipment should be used: goggles, respirators, gloves, tight clothing that does not allow the herbicide to come into contact with the skin.

How to get rid of wheatgrass on the site with folk remedies

All means are good to destroy the creeping couch grass, and the measures to combat it are different. These are modern drugs, and folk remedies, which include:

• Baking soda is sold in all stores. It is quite aggressive and can destroy individual bushes of couch grass, thistle thistle and other weeds on the paths between the tiles. All you need is to make a strong solution of soda and pour grass over it.
• A blowtorch effectively burns wheatgrass in the garden on the entire surface of the earth, but, unfortunately, the root system suffers little from its impact.
• Vinegar is a well-proven vinegar solution. This mixture is called herbicidal soap. To prepare it, you should take:

1. vinegar (15-20%) - 4 liters (maybe a little less);
2. table salt - ½ cup;
3. detergent (any) - 1 teaspoon (with it the solution will stick better).

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All ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and grass is generously sprinkled. Processing should be done in the morning in dry weather. If there is no vinegar of the desired strength, then you can spray it with the usual 9% table vinegar. This also leads to the death of the above-ground part of the plant.

• Lemon acid. Dissolve 3 tablespoons in 1 liter of hot water citric acid. Weeds are sprayed with a solution in sunny calm weather.

Measures to prevent the appearance of wheatgrass

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To maintain the dacha in a well-groomed form, along with the methods of struggle, it is necessary to adhere to some preventive measures for the appearance of weeds: Sow a strip of earth with bluegrass or clover along the perimeter of the site. Cover the paths with sawdust from straw or mulch. Weed rhizomes should not be added to compost heap- even when completely dry, they retain the ability to germinate throughout the year. The roots must be dried and burned. Clogged soil should not be brought into the garden and into the garden. It is undesirable to use fresh manure as a fertilizer - it is highly likely that it contains the remains of roots and seeds of unwanted plants. Close plantings reduce the amount of weed germination. However berry crops should not be planted too close to each other. Wide aisles are recommended to be covered with polypropylene mats. To prevent the entry of weeds from neighboring dachas along the fence, you can dig a trench 30-40 cm deep, cover one wall with polyethylene and cover it with earth.

It should not be forgotten: to achieve effective results in the fight against the most malicious weeds is possible only with a systematic struggle, and not in their episodic destruction.

How to get rid of wheatgrass

Hello, friends! As you already know, this article is dedicated to how to get rid of couch grass. Couch grass is a pioneer plant. It quickly occupies the territory where the land was previously intensively cultivated, fertilized with mineral and even organic fertilizers, and also constantly plowed, cultivated or dug up. Usually wheatgrass grows in one place up to 7 years, and then gradually gives way to other plants. But still, we will not wait 7 years, but we will start getting rid of it this spring (you can also do it in summer or autumn, if you read the article in summer or autumn).

Some use chemical herbicides, referring to the fact that "They are allowed to be used." But not always what is allowed is useful. Remember that they will not bring anything good. By the way, weeds very quickly get used to herbicides and then they need to be poured more and more. Surely, your health and your children and grandchildren are more important to you than the enrichment of corporations, both chemical and pharmaceutical.

By the way, remember that wheatgrass is not only an obnoxious weed, but also useful plant. More about this, and there is also information about his strengths and weaknesses.

If wheatgrass only grows in some places, then you can dig it up and try to select all the roots, but this article is more about how to get rid of wheatgrass if it has flooded a huge area.

How to deal with couch grass creeping on the lawn

The easiest way to fight is used where you want to make a natural lawn. In this case, you will need a tool or equipment for mowing grass (scythe, trimmer, lawn mower). By the way, a trimmer or lawn mower is even more convenient. It is necessary to constantly mow the wheatgrass, he will get tired of it very quickly and he will pass the baton to other plants.

A white clover lawn is good, as it is quite soft when it grows back and it is pleasant to walk on it barefoot. And walking barefoot in the morning dew is doubly pleasant, plus even more beneficial.

Knotweed (highlander bird) is also good. It is soft, pleasant to walk on, it does not need to be mowed, as it grows close to the ground. He also loves spores to be walked on - he breeds like that. And vice versa, where knotweed is not walked on, it grows reluctantly, or even disappears altogether.

If ordinary meadow grasses grow, it’s also good. The main thing is that it will not be wheatgrass. Meadow grasses very good between beds. They can be periodically mowed and used as mulch for beds. By the way, between the beds of wheatgrass at first, it also does not interfere much. To prevent its rhizomes from climbing onto the beds, you can use a curb tape. First, you will mow down the wheatgrass, walk on it, and soon it will leave.

Nikolai Kurdyumov in his book "Encyclopedia of a smart summer resident" recommended using bluegrass and shoot-bearing bentgrass for a wild lawn. These plants grow quickly and give a pleasant soft carpet. The only thing is that in extreme heat they can turn yellow, but after rain they begin to turn green again. Their rhizome is not the same as that of wheatgrass, but still they can easily climb into the garden. Therefore, it is desirable to fence off the beds from them with a curb tape.

There is also an opinion that this weed does not like neighborhood with dahlias.

How to deal with wheatgrass in the garden

The fight against wheatgrass in the garden is not so easy, but feasible. Described below different ways struggle with wheatgrass, and you choose those that are more suitable.

1 way. Destruction of wheatgrass by picking out roots

Picking wheatgrass roots from the ground is a well-known method. The main thing here is to carefully choose the roots, while it is advisable to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork. This is due to the fact that even a piece of wheatgrass rhizome allows it to grow quickly, and thanks to a shovel, the roots are more crushed. In addition, digging the earth overgrown with wheatgrass with a shovel is practically hard labor. In this case, you will have to spend much more effort than digging with a pitchfork.

Minus: this method requires a lot of effort and time. Almost every lump of earth will have to be sorted out.

2 way

This method is the opposite of the first. Here it is recommended to grind the rhizome into small segments (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm). At the same time, the germination of buds that "slept" is stimulated.

What is so good about it? Sprouted buds are more weakened than adult couch grass - after all, they take strength for growth from a small root. It is easier to choose such plants from the ground, because they do not yet have such a branched root system as the "parent".

But it will be necessary to quickly work with them so that they do not have time to build up a branched root system. As soon as green sprouts appear, they need to be pulled out of the ground. Farmers of traditional agriculture use repeated cultivation and pruning, and also “comb out” the rhizomes from the plot using special equipment.

The downside is that it takes a lot of effort and time. In addition to wheatgrass, other weeds can germinate from seeds. In addition, crushing the roots through plowing leads to the destruction of the capillary structure of the soil and the death of microorganisms that make the soil fertile. This is especially true with repeated cultivation and plowing.

Summary: in pure form this method is highly undesirable in natural agriculture.

3 way. How to remove wheatgrass from the garden and harm the earth less

Similar to the second method, but with refinement. In practice, he answers the questions of how to get rid of wheatgrass with improved soil fertility.

After crushing the roots (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm), the plot or individual beds are sown with green manure, which wheatgrass does not like. Remember that he does not like buckwheat, cruciferous plants and legume mixtures. In fact, you can use the same green manure as - you get a double benefit.

In addition, couch grass does not like shading, and fast-growing green manure will provide this shade. He does not like rye either, but wireworms love it, so it is not advisable to use it. In addition, rye also greatly dries out the soil.

Advantage over method 2:

Although the roots are crushed, the capillary structure of the soil is destroyed and the microorganisms that make soil fertility die, there are also positive side. Crushed wheatgrass roots are weaker at the beginning of growth than mature plant. Plus siderates at rapid growth they shade the wheatgrass, and even oppress it with the release of substances that it does not like. Green manures will help to quickly improve and structure the soil, nourish it with the missing substances, and also expel wireworms. Good double crops of vetch-oat or pea-oat mixture, as well as sowing of oil-bearing radish.

This method can be used to quickly improve a large area. If you want to grow some vegetables in the same year, it will be difficult, although if you plant seedlings, you can get a crop this year.

Alternatively, it is possible to clean only part of the area in this way, and use a different method on the other part.

4 way

The next option is spring pruning of young wheatgrass plants. It doesn't need to go deep. Cut with a Fokin flat cutter, Swift or another tool familiar to you to a depth of 5-7 cm. In this way, remove the grass, its growth point and part of the rhizomes. What you cut off - select from the garden - it's easier than choosing all the roots from a depth of 20 cm (when compared with the 1st method).

The rhizomes of the wheatgrass will receive the signal to grow new grass and wake up dormant buds. The grass will grow, and you will cut it again by the same 5-7 cm. The next germination of couch grass from the 2nd generation of dormant buds is not excluded. BUT for each germination, he will have less and less strength. In practice, in this way, you will exhaust the couch grass and there will be nothing left for him but to die or “crawl away” to those places where he is not disturbed.

The advantage of this method is that the soil structure is almost not destroyed.

Minus: it is unlikely that you will have time to sow or plant something from cultivated plants in the spring. Although, after trimming green manure, you can try to plant some seedlings, taking into account crop rotation. Also, instead of green manure, you can immediately sow or plant cultivated plants, but which expel wheatgrass. Read about these in 5 ways.

5 way

This method is also based on two weaknesses of wheatgrass at once - intolerance to strong shading and dislike for legumes and cruciferous crops. In some ways, it is similar to the 3rd method.

First, we plow the area, but no deeper than 20 cm. If the area is small, then you can get by with a hoe or flat cutter (for example, in a garden). Then we plant Jerusalem artichoke and sow a mixture of seeds: lettuce, radish, radish, peas, beans, corn, sunflower. Sow not very thick, but scattered. Such a mixture is good because it does not give wheatgrass a chance to survive. The fact is that these cultures different heights and form a dense "carpet". Plus, they release substances that our favorite weed doesn't like.

We also get the following benefits:

• taller plants cover moisture-loving and cool-loving neighbors from the sun (this is true in hot regions);
• step landing allows you to protect yourself from the effects of hail. Those plants that are taller, of course, will suffer, but at the same time they will protect lower crops. Accordingly, you will get at least some kind of harvest, something will survive.

Then you need to cover the ridge with mulch (you can use black agrofibre) and leave for 1-2 weeks. Or, if there is time before the main planting, sow green manure. After that, you can start sowing seeds or planting seedlings. It is important that if the bed is not high, then in the first year you can plant pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons (if the region is hot). But with carrots you have to wait until next year otherwise it will be all twisted and you simply will not want to clean it.

This method is good for making raised beds or box beds. It is also possible for high beds or multi-tiered. To help choose the beds this article, as well as your imagination and reflections

About how to get rid of couch grass creeping, told. A lot has happened, so you have plenty to choose from. You can come up with your own way based on the above. As you understand, you can combine methods, use all conditions to limit the growth of the weed. Remember its weaknesses and let the question “How to deal with wheatgrass in the garden” no longer bother you. And, of course, I will be glad to know about your methods and results.

I wish you success!

I advise, dear readers, not to miss the publication of new materials on this blog.

This plant can reach 120 cm in height, and its long, creeping and knotty rhizomes penetrate the soil to a depth of 1 meter. Many gardeners have been waging an unequal struggle with him for years. How to remove couch grass creeping?

Planting oats and spring pruning

The fastest, most efficient and useful way The fight against wheatgrass consists in sowing oats at the place of its growth. Oats can be mixed with vetch or peas. The roots of the oats will kill the roots of the wheatgrass, and the greens will enrich the soil with nitrogen, improving its fertility. If possible, you need to dig up the ground to the floor of the bayonet or plow without choosing wheatgrass. Then a furrow is made with a chopper and oats are sown in a strip approximately equal to 5 cm. Subsequent furrows are made at a distance of 15 cm from the previous ones. When the oats reach 15 cm in length, the site must be dug up, turning the layers over. It is important to prevent the oats from sprouting. After that, the oats are sown a second time and also dug up. In this way, you can completely destroy the weed and get ready for spring planting plot.

As an option to deal with creeping wheatgrass you can cut the young shoots of the weed with the advent of spring. It doesn't even have to go deep. It will be enough to remove the grass and part of the rhizomes at a depth of 5-7 cm. This can be provided by the Fokin flat cutter, Swift, or any other familiar tool. What is cut will need to be removed from the garden, and this will be much easier to do than picking all the roots from a depth of 20 cm. Each subsequent generation of wheatgrass will be weaker and fewer than the previous one. Thus, the plant will have nothing left but to die or crawl away to those places where nothing threatens its life and growth.

How else can you get rid of wheatgrass and organize a warm bed

Creeping couch grass grows very hard from the depths. Therefore, this feature can be put in the basis of the fight against this weed. It is required to remove a 20-centimeter layer of soil and lay it with a green mass down. It is not forbidden to lay another layer with wheatgrass, and pour earth on top. The result should be a ridge up to 1.5 m high. In this way, wheatgrass can rot, and in order to get rid of it for sure, various plants can be planted on a hilly ridge. Preference should be given to those who "do not like" wheatgrass. We are talking about corn, sunflower, beans, radishes, radishes and peas.

Mulching is also very popular. It is necessary in the spring to lay cardboard on the young shoots of the weed, and sprinkle it on top with either mowed grass or peat. Due to the lack of light, the roots of the wheatgrass will rot in the ground along with the cardboard, and if some shoots “break through” through the barrier, they can be sprayed with vinegar and they will dry out. In autumn, weed control will not be successfully completed.

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