For drilling a well or earthworks a drill can become an indispensable tool. From our article you will learn how to make a drill with your own hands. We will consider the main options for its manufacture and the features of the workflow. Will also be given practical recommendations and advice.
You can drill a large number of holes for planting shrubs or trees or for installing fence posts, as well as drilling a well for water using an excavation drill. On the farm, this tool can come to your aid many times. Let’s take a closer look at how to make a drill with your own hands.
To make a drill we will need the following tools:
- welding machine;
- corner Sander;
- drill with a set of drills for metal.
The design of the drill is extremely simple, it consists of:
- rods
- pens
- knives
Let's look at the manufacturing of all components and start with the simplest.
Making a rod
A rod is a metal rod or tube onto which the knives and handle are attached. Depending on the purpose for which you need the drill, you need to select the material for making the rod.
If you plan to use a drill to dig holes for seedlings or fence posts, then cutting a pipe or metal rod from the floor to your chest (1-1.2 m) will be sufficient.
If a drill is needed to make a well, then the rod will need to be upgraded. This is due to the fact that drilling must be carried out at great depths, so the system must be made with the ability to expand. Here are a few options on how you can do this:
- cut threads on rod sections and splice them, if necessary, using couplings. To prevent unauthorized unwinding, it is necessary to secure the connection with cotter pins;
- At one end of the rod, you can weld a nut, for example, 20M, and to the other rod, a 20M bolt. It is also necessary to provide for the possibility of fixing the threaded connection;
- take small pieces of pipe with a slightly larger diameter than the rod and weld them on one edge. A new rod is inserted into them and drilled through hole for bolted connection.
In this way you can prepare required amount connecting sections.
The drill should penetrate the soil easily, so the lower part should be made sharp. A more advanced version can be made by welding an old drill onto the bottom of the rod.
Handle and its features
To make a handle, you will need a piece of pipe approximately 40 cm long. Select a diameter such that when you wrap your hand around it, it will be comfortable for you to hold it.
Before attaching the handle, squeeze the top edge of the bar in a vice to give it oval shape. Weld the handle perpendicular to the rod.
Knives
The most important part in a drill is the knives. Their design will determine how much labor can be required to make holes in the ground. The material from which they will be made must be hard and elastic.
Option 1. Sheet metal
The simplest drill knife can be made from a sheet of iron. To do this, you need to draw a circle on paper the size of the knife disk. Cut it out with scissors. The resulting template is applied to a metal plate and outlined with a marker.
Now you need to cut out the outlined circle from the metal. You can do this with a grinder and then finish the edges. Don't forget to make a hole in the central part for the rod.
So, the blank for the knife is cut out. The next step is to mark a sector on the prepared workpiece and cut it out. Sharpen the cutting surface and bend it down (approximately 30-40°).
All that remains is to weld the manufactured knife to the rod. You need to retreat approximately 10 cm from the bottom edge of the product.
Option 2. From a circular saw blade
A more advanced model can be made from an old disk circular saw. To do this, it must be sawed in half and the halves welded to the rod at an angle of 30-40° relative to each other. Please note that the teeth should be positioned in the direction of rotation of the drill. Such an improved unit will even allow you to cut the roots without large diameter.
Did you know that the drill can be improved? To do this, you need to take a disk of small diameter and also cut it in half. Sharpen the edges and weld them parallel to the knife blades below on the rod. This device is called a subsoiler and allows you to crumble dense soil. You can make another ripper of a smaller diameter and install it even lower.
Option 3. Spiral drill
Making a spiral drill on your own is more difficult. However, you can look for items suitable for this purpose at metal collection points. For example, a fishing drill or an auger from agricultural machinery of a suitable diameter may be suitable. You just need to cut it to the required length, sharpen the edges and weld it to the rod. A spiral drill can be used when driving a water well.
Option 4. Spoon drill
The spoon drill is intended primarily for drilling wells under water with the simultaneous installation casing pipe. To make it, you need to take a piece of pipe (approximately 70-100 cm) and make a slot along its length. You can weld an old drill in the lower part. The peculiarity of the spoon drill is that its attachment of the upper part to the rod is offset relative to the axis by approximately 10-15 mm. In this case, the welded drill and rod are coaxial. Thus, when drilling, the diameter of the well will be greater than the diameter of the drill itself.
All that remains is to sharpen the cutting edge as it rotates. The cut soil will remain inside the cylinder cavity and the drill must be periodically freed from the rock.
Hand drills can be used to drill holes in loose rocks, but this tool is not suitable in rocky areas. Of all the options listed, a spiral drill can handle small stones.
So, four are considered various options products that you can make yourself. The first two are more suitable for digging holes for posts and seedlings, the last two are more “specialized” for drilling wells for water. Which option suits you best - choose for yourself.
A hand drill is necessary for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or vegetable garden. Using this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for installing supports during the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced with any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that hand drill for poles you can do it yourself, saving a significant amount of money. Everything you need to make this an indispensable tool, - This detailed instructions, describing how to make a drill, availability necessary materials, tools and, of course, patience.
Using a hand auger, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for posts or planting trees.
It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loamy base. In this case, the drill is usually made of high quality materials. In this case, its service life may be unlimited.
Materials and tools
Before you begin, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do this, you need to have:
- welding machine;
- welding clamps;
- grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
- electric drills;
- pairs of gas keys;
- dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
- die holder;
- vice.
Materials for making a drill: grinder disc, drill, pipes.
As practice shows, application in in this case simple cutting plates with a sufficiently large diameter are unable to produce the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take away your energy and time in the process of drilling earth holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made drill made by yourself will be much more effective, and working with it will take noticeably less time.
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Device
A hand drill consists of the following elements:
- Pen.
- Insert.
- Cutting attachment.
- Clutch.
- Bolt with nut.
- Cutting blades.
- Guide rod.
- Blade.
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Manufacturing of pre-rippers
As for the worm version of the tool, making it yourself is quite difficult. Taking this into account, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of force applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.
The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the hole and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disk ripper.
The disk ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil upward. During one such process, the depth of the dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, working with a hand drill will be quite difficult.
A good material for making pre-rippers can be car spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.
To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, it is necessary to maintain a certain angle. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can begin welding the next section of the rod. The next step it is necessary to attach the second pre-ripper element to it (end-to-end). Finally, all that remains is to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise backlash may occur.
As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, for its manufacture it is recommended to use processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid displacement of forces, as a result of which the dug wells may turn out crooked.
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Threading
At the opposite end of the rod it is necessary to cut a thread onto which the coupling will subsequently be screwed. For this purpose you will need a vice and a special die. Clamp the barbell (end up) in a strong vise, maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, completely undesirable depreciation may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end to form a cone. This will guarantee that the die will sit correctly and evenly on the bar. After this, you can begin cutting work.
There is nothing complicated in the thread cutting process. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die gets stuck during work, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After this, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The most optimal thread is considered to be 10 cm long.
The next step is to screw a coupling onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the connecting seam. At this point, you can safely assume that you have completed the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.
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Making a pen
The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at right angles in a T-shape. The main bar itself can have a length of 40 to 50 cm. The recommended width of the handle should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the rod's resistance to rotational force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand-held pole drill will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the ground in moderate parts.
Before you start welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, making sure the corners are straight. This way you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The weld seam should be end side main rod. At this stage you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and service life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on all the stress, don’t skimp on the electrodes.
The uneven joints are ground down using a grinder; this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but will also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get while using a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod in the same way as the previous one.
When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same holes, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.
Designs and Applications
Garden gardeners that are easier to make earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.
Making a garden drill
A garden drill is the simplest, but efficient design. It consists of:
This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.
Materials
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.
Blade knives can be made from:
It's easier to make blades from saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.
The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of her designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.
Pike - one of the tip options
And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and fastening method
First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.
After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.
One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters
You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.
Sheet steel
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.
From a saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.
This homemade drill for excavation work shows quite high performance. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.
Modifications
In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.
If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.
And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.
Auger drill
Auger drill due to large quantity turns creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, devices for underground probes for heat pump and so on.
To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.
The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
Drill for TISE piles
In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.
Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options
A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.
The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to folding design on bolted connections.
The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.
Blueprints
A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.
There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case you can do garden auger from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).
If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.
This drawing shows interesting design handles - it can be rearranged as the length of the bar increases.
Basic drawings of auger and garden auger
Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.
Garden auger drawing
Video materials
When you need to dig a lot of holes at your dacha or personal plot, many people old habit, they pick up a shovel, but as practice shows, it is much easier to use a drill (mechanical, electric or fuel) for this - a simple device allows you to cover a large volume of excavation work in relatively less time.
This tool is an indispensable assistant when installing a fence and street lamps, and also applies to summer cottage and in the garden - for example, when planting cuttings of shrubs and young trees. It makes it easier to organize drainage system and dig a well. Even “punching holes” in the ice winter fishing It’s more convenient to use an auger rather than a shovel.
What types of drills exist
On sale are non-motorized drills, mechanized hand drills (electric and fuel models) and attachments. The most accessible and unpretentious in operation are non-motorized. They are light in weight and compact in size, and are reliable and durable due to their simplicity of design (if desired, they can be easily made independently).
There are 3 types of earth-moving tools:
- garden drill - used primarily for drilling holes for planting plants and trees, but is also useful for installing columnar supports;
- screw - has an extended cutting part, due to which earthmoving work takes less time;
- for TISE piles - the design is classic, but in addition to the knife, there is also a folding blade, with the help of which a characteristic expansion is formed in the lower part of the pit.
Fuel and electric manual models They captivate with greater productivity, but require careful care and constant “smoke breaks” during operation. Fuel drills are completely mobile, while electric drills require a nearby source of current or gasoline generator. Compared with mechanical drills, electric and gas drills fail more often.
Knives and mounting methods
Working parts are made different shapes: rounded, rectangular and for spiral screws (augers). Also, homemade hand drills come with removable and non-removable blades. In the first case, steel shelves are attached to the lower end of the rod using electric welding at an angle of 25-30 degrees, and then several holes are made for fasteners (a similar operation is performed with the blades).
The elements are connected using bolts or studs and nuts with washers. “Stationary” discs are simply welded to metal rod. To ensure a tighter fit of the finished blades to the pipe, you will first need to cut semicircular holes along the edges before installing them.
Productivity of tools and quality of work
The performance of a hand-held hole drill depends on the design of the product, the type of cutting element, as well as the diameter and depth of the hole in the ground. To drill a hole with a diameter of 25–30 cm and a depth of 3 meters, it will take 2–3 hours. It is problematic to perform labor-intensive work with a hand drill, but for daily tasks it will do just fine. With its help, you can make up to 30 holes a day - to make the work easier, use special tripods.
If you decide to make a tool with your own hands, choose only high-quality steel for the cutting blades - in this case, the homemade product will serve faithfully for many years.
Making your own drill
Using a conventional manual or mechanized hole drill, you can quickly and accurately drill holes in the ground for planting trees, installing poles, etc. It’s just not practical to buy an expensive power tool or gas drill to perform one-time work on the site (and sometimes you need a product non-standard sizes). Therefore, in such situations, a manual drill for excavation work can be made on your own if desired.
DIY garden auger
First, weld the handle perpendicular to the vertical rod, which can be a hollow pipe, steel rod or reinforcement. When choosing a material, consider for what purpose you are making an earth drill with your own hands. The easiest way to make blades is from a carbide saw blade - cut it with a grinder, and then weld the two halves to the rod.
Improved excavation drill
Take a square from sheet metal with dimensions 210x210 mm and a thickness of 3–4 mm, mark the center by drawing two diagonals and draw a circle using a caliper required diameter, then cut with a grinder. You will also need a three-quarter pipe and a bendix from the starter.
Using a special crown or lathe drill a hole in the circle to match the diameter of the pipe. Weld a steel triangle to the bottom of the rod (you can use metal scraps left over from the square), and then insert a circle at a distance of 10 cm from its edge, securing it with electric welding. Make two cuts in the longitudinal section of the disk and bend them in different directions so that the bending angle is within 25–30°. Weld a bendix and a horizontal handle to the top of the pipe. The earth drill with your own hands is ready.
Digging holes for fence posts is a problem known to every summer resident who wants to develop his or her plot. Narrow holes can be dug with a simple shovel, but this will take a lot of time and cause a lot of inconvenience. If the soils on the site have a complex structure, the task becomes unsolvable without the use of special tools. A pole drill, which not everyone has on the farm, can easily cope with such work. You have to buy it, rent it and hire a specialist.
What it is
A garden auger is a compact device of simple design. The principle of using the tool and the design of the drill are similar to the action and structure of an ordinary corkscrew. Using rotational movements, it crushes stones and roots, and deepens complex dense soils.
Designs and Applications
The purpose of the drill is to drill wells of a certain depth. Most often this is the depth under columnar foundation. When rotating, the cutting part of the drill forms holes, the profile of which depends on the shape of this part; it can be:
- in the form of a screw;
- having two blades;
- screw-shaped;
- in the form of half-discs;
- having many cutting tiers;
- all-welded and removable.
The earth drilling tool has different design. Differences in the structure of drills that determine their functional characteristics:
- ripper. The element consists of inclined planes(2 pcs.) or auger. The auger is located on a rod and is a spiral knife;
- soil receiver. The component accumulates soil and has the greatest productivity when preparing holes with a diameter of more than 35 cm;
- forming plow. The device expands the lower zone. Effective in the construction of large structures;
- bolt fastening. Allows you to extend the structure for pit preparation great depth(standard working length of the rod is 70 cm, plus an additional pipe - 50 cm). The device is located on the end sections of the rod.
The most unpretentious productive form is a simple garden hand auger for posts. Its design consists of the following parts.
- The cutting part consists of two semicircles, sharpened along the edges. If you design a drill for poles with your own hands, you can make the blades removable and fasten them with bolts. This will make it possible to change the diameter of the hole at your discretion.
- Kernel. Its length is calculated as the sum of the depth of the required hole and 60 additional centimeters. The part is made from profile pipe or a simple round pipe.
- Pen. The standard rod is 1.5 m, a handle from 40 to 60 cm is welded to it T-shaped for ease of use.
- The tip is a drill. The part is located under the cutting blades. The tip of the drill centers the tool at the beginning of work, and then loosens the soil.
The tool is used for the following work:
- construction of a light chain-link fence and a more serious fence;
- erection of supports for the gazebo and climbing plants in a green hedge;
- planting hedges (barberry, derain, spirea);
- organization of subsoil watering of bushes. Half a meter from the tree, holes are made and sections of pipes are inserted through which watering is carried out. Root system develops in depth;
- plant nutrition. Several holes are drilled around the plant, into which fertilizer with humus and peat is placed;
- carrying out aeration. Holes are made with a drill at a distance of 0.5 m from each other and filled with sand. Sand allows oxygen to pass through well and saturates the soil;
- drilling small wells and compost pits;
- laying communications in inclined tunnels, installing ventilation systems.
Types of drills for pillars
Before you buy a drill or decide to make it yourself, you should understand what types of these mechanisms exist. Simple hand held garden post augers are very simple and light weight. Coping with such a device is not difficult even for a person inexperienced in technology. By making forward circular movements with the handle of the tool, the gardener sets in motion the entire structure that performs the drilling.
Model with removable cutters
The hand drill model with replaceable cutters comes with two types of attachments: 150 mm and 20 mm. The tool performs two actions simultaneously - it deepens the drifts to the right size and pulls out the earth. The hole is obtained with a clear shape and size necessary for poles or planting. The height of the tool is 1.2 m, and the cutters are 3 mm thick. The design is equipped with a comfortable rubberized reinforced handle (56 cm). Made from durable materials, the tool has a long service life. The edges of the auger can be easily re-sharpened yourself.
With a 150 mm cutter you can perform the following work:
- plant care - fertilizing, root treatment;
- planting bushes;
- taking soil samples, determining the water level;
- installation of supports;
- drilling wells and pits for ventilation and drainage.
With 200 mm cutter:
- planting plants with tap roots;
- extraction of water, sand and clay;
- installation of supports for large structures (fence, gates, greenhouses).
Auger drilling device
The auger drill has an elongated cutting part, which allows you to reduce operating time by removing it from the hole less often. The device is equipped with a spiral cutting surface. The tool is used for drilling holes for posts for fences and other structures. Auger drills are used in the mining industry to drill through rock. The drilling machine used in this industry is also equipped with auger drills.
What to look for when purchasing
Installing fence posts requires preparing holes for the supports. To carry out this work, it is much better to use earth drills, which you can buy, make yourself, or rent. First of all, we must pay attention to specifications tool. In this case, the required depth of the holes, their diameter and number are taken into account (if you rent a gasoline drill, then the number of holes per shift). The knives (shovel) with which the tool is equipped require great attention. They should be sharp and, preferably, self-sharpening. Cutting elements will be used for processing soil, breaking stones, cutting grass, so they must be made of high-quality materials. When choosing a tool to buy or rent, you need to select a unit that matches the characteristics of the type of soil that will have to be processed.
Estimated cost
If a person regularly drills holes on his property, builds and cares for plants, it makes sense for him to purchase a simple drill with good qualities. On the market garden equipment you can buy a simple auger drill for 629 rubles or even a ROSTOK garden drill for 329 rubles. On average, the price of hand drills, depending on the material, cutting surface, and convenience, reaches 2,000 rubles, which is quite affordable for everyone. In the case when global excavation work is ahead for the construction of a capital fence around the entire perimeter and the preparation of deep holes, it makes sense to rent equipment. Renting drilling equipment will cost 12-20 thousand rubles. Manual hole drills can be rented for 9-11 thousand rubles per work shift. Equipment for drilling holes deeper than 12 meters and up to 80 cm wide has a rental cost of up to 18 thousand rubles per shift. If there is construction going on on a site and piles need to be screwed in, then the cost of renting equipment for this can reach up to 80 thousand rubles per shift.
How to make a post drill with your own hands. Step-by-step description of tool manufacturing
Sometimes a gardener wonders how to make a drill himself. The drill is a connection between the upper part (handle) and the lower part (cutting part). The length of the structure should not be less than a meter, which will allow you to dig holes 70 cm deep. This, as a rule, is enough to do work in the garden.
List of required parts, materials and tools
To make the design you will need:
- pipe sections of 400, 500 and 500 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm and an outer diameter of 40 mm;
- discs with a diameter of 100 and 150 mm;
- nut and bolt with metric thread M20;
- drill with a diameter of 20 mm and a tip.
The discs for the structure can be taken from a circular saw or made from steel with a thickness of 3 mm or more.
To assemble the drill, you may need the following tools:
- welding machine. You can use a device of any simplified design;
- Bulgarian. A tool with a 125 mm disc can be used for cutting and sharpening metal;
- two hammers – a metalworker’s and a small sledgehammer “bulda”, which can be used as an anvil;
- anvil (using improvised means);
- vices of any type.
The pipe is clamped in a vice, and a cone (tip) is formed at its end using a cutting tool and a sledgehammer, which must be exactly in the middle, otherwise the drill will be pulled to the side during operation.
Manufacturing of pre-rippers
The part is designed to loosen the soil and maintain a vertical position. To make it, you can use a metal strip 3-4 cm wide, 25 cm long and 4 mm thick. The part occupies 10-15 cm from the length of the rod. The workpiece is sharpened on one side at an angle of 10 degrees, and the other side is welded to the rod. The direction of the tape must correspond to the direction of rotation of the future drill. The end of the tape is cut off from below (30 degrees) and sharpened ovally.
After the pre-ripper, cutting blades made from an old circular saw blade, cut into two parts, are welded to the axle. They are welded to the axis at a spiral angle, and the sides are bent in opposite directions, so that one becomes an intake (it should be sharpened) and the other an ejector. The homemade drill is ready.
Threading
If a well is being drilled on a site and the length of the drill is not sufficient, then the drill pipe must be made detachable. Several additional rods with a length of 1 m should be made so that it is enough to reach the required depth of the well. The sections can be connected using a threaded coupling. The threads are cut at the ends of the sections and secured with a cotter pin. Such fastening will prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the pipes.
Making a pen
The handle is the element that transmits rotational movement the entire structure. It is made from materials that have a large margin of safety, since when working with difficult rocky soil, a decent load will be placed on it. The handle is usually made of rolled metal. It should not spring and clearly transfer forces to the entire device. The upper edge of the main pipe is connected to the handle by welding. The complexity of the entire process depends on the size of the handle (lever). The standard and optimal length is considered to be 50 cm. To make the handle, a piece of pipe 50 cm long and 1.25 cm in diameter is taken. The diameter is selected according to the user’s preferences. The workpiece is welded to the base perpendicularly.
Additional links
Sharpening working surfaces is one of the important stages. To make the drill penetrate the ground easier, the lower edges of the cutting strip are sharpened at an angle of 60 degrees. For the same purpose, additional notches of 3 mm are made on them. A drill is welded at the end of the tip, which makes it easier to penetrate the soil. The nozzle is short-lived and quickly destroyed, since it bears the main load when drilling the soil. For ease of use of the tool and to prevent injuries, the handle must be carefully sanded so that there are no nicks, or a piece of rubber or plastic hose must be used.
The final stage and application of a protective coating
At the end of the work, you need to thoroughly clean everything welds and other connections sandpaper. For further processing, a primer and a phosphating solution are used. The last stage processing is painting the product. The coating will prevent premature deterioration of the material and corrosion and increase service life.
Methods to improve tool performance
When the active use of a self-made earth drill begins, its shortcomings begin to emerge in practice. This may be poor quality of the selected materials, incorrect calculations or manufacturing defects. You can always find a way to improve the soy design.
Ways to improve the design
You can strengthen the tip of the tool to work in dense soil layers. You can make notches on it with a grinder (like screw pipe). To work on light soils, you can make a pre-ripper, like turns of an auger (1-2 pcs.). The auger is welded at the base of the drill. In this case, the drill will enter the ground much easier, without requiring significant effort.
For laying deep wells many craftsmen make a special extension for the main pipe. At the same time they do not use threaded connections, since when pulling out the tool, a piece of the rod could unscrew and the main structure could remain in the ground. Therefore, it is recommended to use male-female fasteners with bolts and nuts.
Operation and care of the pole drill
Making garden equipment yourself is one thing, but how to make equipment so that it lasts a long time and performs its functions correctly. It is necessary to operate and care for it correctly, following the rules:
- the blade of the cutting surface and the main rod should be immediately coated with an anti-corrosion compound;
- paint the instrument with metal paint;
- With each use, you should check the sharpness of the blade and, if necessary, sharpen it with sandpaper or a block;
- to be on the safe side before drilling, you should loosen the soil with a shovel;
- the drill should be pulled out carefully, avoiding deflection of the cutting surface;
- After work, you need to clean the tool from the soil.