There is one eternal question: “What is the difference between a spoiler and a wing?” The difference is simply simple - spoiler is designed to redirect air flow, and a wing to increase the downforce of the car with road surface. Both devices are designed to improve aerodynamic characteristics and, accordingly, improve car handling. The spoiler starts working from the moment the car starts moving, and the wing, in turn, requires a minimum speed of 100 km/h to start working on the speedometer.
Types of spoilers
Installing spoilers on the car sills will help you keep the body clean - the diverted air flows from the wheels, together with the large width of the spoiler, simply will not allow tar and dirt particles to fly outside the wheel arch. This will also help reduce the amount of water splashing during wet driving. To increase the speed of air flow under the machine, there are two principles: different approaches. They differ depending on the wheel drive of your vehicle. If you have a front-wheel drive car, you need to install a spoiler on the edge of the trunk, because due to design features car, during its movement air currents are created that lift the front part of the car above the road, as a result of which controllability is lost. In the case of rear-wheel drive cars, the spoiler is mounted on the edge of the hood; it is also advisable to install a spoiler at the rear to increase downforce, which will improve the contact of the wheels with the road surface. The spoiler guide plane should be at an angle to the oncoming air flows. Thanks to these simple steps, we will achieve a vacuum in the air behind the car, which will increase the speed of air flow under the car itself. Downforce is needed for fast cornering. With proper aerodynamic settings, you can achieve an increase in cornering speed by several tens of kilometers. Where previously your car “licked” off the track, now you can drive as if glued.
In addition to its aerodynamic and practical functions, the spoiler is used as an aesthetic decoration. However, “craftsmen” do not always manage to make their “swallow” more beautiful.
How to choose a spoiler
Before choosing a spoiler you need remember its main functions, and also ask the question “why do you need it” and how expedient is it to install it on your car. Having decided that we need it, we remember what functions it will perform - this question is key, because after answering it, we can begin to choose the spoiler itself. The main point when choosing a spoiler is where it was purchased. It is from this circumstance that the quality of the part, the ability to perform the assigned tasks, and also the most important factor - its price. The most ideal place to buy a spoiler is a specialized tuning company, or as it is now fashionable to say “studio”, because it is here that you will be able to choose the right plane angle for your new toy. When choosing a spoiler in a tuning workshop, pay attention to the price tag. High-quality and “working” parts are more expensive, but if your main function is aesthetic, you can freely choose cheaper bells and whistles. Choosing an expensive option don't skimp on having it professionally installed within the walls of this institution. An expensive spoiler that is installed incorrectly will not be able to perform the functions expected of it, and moreover, the likelihood of it “breaking off” will increase significantly. If you come to the car market or a small car shop, be prepared for the fact that 80% of the tuning elements provided to you are simply unable to perform functions other than decorating the car. Most often here you can find “homemade” products, or worse, fakes of famous brands produced in “handicraft” conditions. When subscribing to something like this, you must be prepared for the short service life of such a spoiler; moreover, this part may turn out to be unsafe both for your car and for other participants traffic- due to poor quality fastening. 
When making the final choice of a spoiler, the key factors are the buyer’s financial capabilities and his taste. When making a decision, you should remember that any tuning is developed and tailored for a specific model, so we advise you to immediately discard thoughts about purchasing “universal” tuning packages. Having decided on the price tag and spoiler material, take a look at the car forums, where you can find answers about the life and quality of service of the part you have chosen. All the above points will help you do a good choice, but as they say, “one head is good, two are even better” - before purchasing, seek correct and objective advice from a professional who installs such equipment.
How to make your own spoiler
To achieve your goals, it is best to use spoilers tested in wind tunnels. However, a test in a pipe is quite an expensive pleasure, so it is worth resorting to the help of freely available 3D programs with which you can conduct tests and evaluate the results of your future product. If you want to make a spoiler yourself, be prepared for a week of wasted time, and this is if you have “direct hands.” To start you need to make a rigid matrix frame, which will serve as a platform for your future creation. It is on its basis that the modeling and gluing of parts will take place. Before making it, estimate the dimensions of the future spoiler, and also select future materials. To fix the wing in space, you can use plasticine and double-sided tape; the spoiler plane itself can be made of chipboard. In this case, plasticine helps perfectly when adjusting the angle of the spoiler plane, as well as its symmetry. To create the base and the spoiler itself, it is best to use thin and thick glass mat. For trimming and shaping recommended sharp knife
, however, to remove the fleecy edges of the glass mat, it is better to use a grinder. Sanding will help give the spoiler a smooth finish. The shape of the future product depends on the personal preferences of its creator. 
Brief step-by-step installation instructions
The process of installing a spoiler is much faster than the process of selecting or manufacturing it. Below we will describe how to install a spoiler with your own hands. To do this, we will need a drill, several screws and a tape measure. First you need to remove the existing sheathing and insulation. Next, attach the spoiler to its future location, then mark the places for drilling. You need to drill a diameter slightly smaller than needed. Then we apply the spoiler to the future installation location to check the coincidence of the holes on the body with the spoiler holes; if everything is fine, we take drills of a larger diameter. Never brush away chips by hand, as this may damage the integrity of your paintwork. 
It's best to install a spoiler in designated factory locations or to power body elements. IN ideal It is better to use bolts instead of screws. Don't forget to put Engraver washers under the nuts. 
We also recommend using silicone sealant, having previously washed and degreased the place where we will apply it. The installed spoiler must fit tightly to the car body. Special attention Pay attention to the places where the part itself is attached. Poor installation spoilers and unpainted chips on the paintwork threaten you with water getting into the joints, which is fraught with subsequent corrosion. 
Basic materials
When choosing a spoiler, you need to pay attention to the material from which it is made. Now we are seeing the widespread dominance of plastic spoilers. Carbon analogues will be stronger, but their price will be much more expensive. In this situation, aluminum spoilers are a good alternative - they are lightweight and quite attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Plastic spoilers last the least. Constant exposure sun rays and various kinds of “road chemicals” kill them right before our eyes. Fiberglass is especially weak. Now almost all fakes on the market are made from it. However, you should not be completely biased towards plastic; there is a type of ABS, which is characterized by increased practicality. 
Coloring
The painting process is quite a troublesome task, so we suggest that you better contact specialists to save time. But if you like challenges then let's begin. First you will need fine sandpaper, putty, a drill, a primer for plastic, masking and double-sided thick tape, a pencil and a place for painting (we recommend using a garage) and finally paint to match the color of the car. Will you spend on this is 4-5 hours and approximately 1000 hryvnia. All small holes and cracks must be filled with putty first; after drying, sanding is done to obtain a smooth surface. Then we hang the spoiler by the fastening wire. This will allow you to have complete freedom in the process of painting the part. Then the process of priming and painting occurs. When painting a spoiler, there are three directions of action: 1) spray painting 2) using vinyl film 3) painting work.
Legality of installation
In Ukraine, the installation of various types of spoilers is legal, which cannot be said about neighboring Russia. All their upgrades must be certified; if they are not, then all spare parts, in particular the spoiler, must meet the requirements of technical regulations. We allow any modifications, domestic insurers are responsible for the quality and reliability of their operation, who, in turn, do not pay any attention to such updates. A common question is the issue of warranty. You can only install new parts on your “swallow” from the factory, taking into account the fact that the parts will be purchased at an official dealership. However, we can agree with this, because an incorrectly installed spoiler, as well as body kits, sills, bulky bumpers and deflectors change the aerodynamics, increase weight, increase fuel consumption, and also this is fraught with loss of the car's factory balance. Otherwise, there is no point in thinking about the warranty. 
It all started with a trip to the auto store; I came in one day and saw an assortment of spoilers of the most different forms, made of fiberglass and at reasonable prices (1400-2000 rubles), and, naturally, I liked one. I leave a deposit, go out, try it on in the car... bad luck, the length of the spoiler turned out to be 10 cm less than desired. It’s a shame, but I want to, and then different thoughts begin to creep in. One was like this - take this spoiler, cut it, make an insert of 10 cm, minimum time investment, but another 200 rubles are added to the cost of the spoiler, in the end we get 2200 (the spoiler we liked cost 2000 rubles) plus painting. The second thought is to do it completely yourself, while offhand we get the cost in the range of 700-1000 rubles. plus the shape of the spoiler can be made absolutely to your liking. Since my work schedule allows me to calmly go about my business and there are obvious savings, I decided to take on this business.
Unfortunately, my first step was taken in the direction of garbage containers, and all because after reading that you can take polyurethane foam sealant and squeeze a mold out of it, I went to the store. I read on the can that the volume of blown foam is about 20 liters, and after estimating how much I would need for the spoiler, I took one can...
Lay newspapers on the floor and let’s blow out the foam sealant into the blank. It turned out that what was written there - “foam yield is 20 liters” in practice is only 5 :(. I also had to buy a couple of large ones, which say 40 liters. I blew it out as it is written in the attached instructions, best result- maximum 10 l. And the most big drawback- the more you heat the balloon, the larger the pores in the frozen mass; reached 5 cm. Having spent 5 cylinders, I gave up on this matter and concluded that if necessary A little mold, then the method is not bad and it is better that the balloon is cold, and all this is not done in the heat. So I threw 500 rubles into the trash.
Well, I had to take foam; By the way, at first I wanted to use it, but then I abandoned this idea because large quantity garbage, which is remarkably electrified and then sticks to everything.
So, a sheet of polystyrene foam 1 x 1 m thick, 5 cm thick (actually 4.5 cm, but that’s just minor things) was purchased. I cut out the wing blade diagonally, otherwise the sheet width was not enough. Next, I put off making the spoiler and took on something simpler - a stand for the number. Everyone knows that Japanese numbers are more square and smaller than Russian ones, so our numbers don’t look good in the places provided for them.
I cut out a blank, bought epoxy glue, but not the kind that comes in syringes for 40-150 rubles per 30 ml, but paper box. The quantity and manufacturer are different, but the box is the same. I didn’t have fiberglass; I didn’t know where to get it at that time. And here the old silk shirts came in handy. In general, after a couple of days I glued this stand, a few more days were spent on sanding and painting. I bought the paint in cans for 70 rubles and covered it with the same varnish (it says Korean).
This is what happened:
Next... no, not a spoiler, but a lip, it’s easier to make (at least the one that turned out :)). I took off the bumper, turned it over, and glued a blank out of foam plastic, which was weakly held on the bumper by silicone auto sealant. I tore off the blank and let’s give it a shape. After that, I wrapped it in plastic bags. I took the last tights from my friend, pulled them on and coated them with epoxy. After the two layers of tights had dried, I pulled the blank out of the lip (so that it would come out just like the bags are needed, epoxy does not stick to them). The epoxy will finally polymerize only after a few days. Of course, after a day it seems to be hard, but this is not always the case (my lip dried out for more than a week). Although it all depends on the amount of hardener, the more of it, the faster it polymerizes, but it also becomes more fragile, and it is better to add a plating agent for flexibility. Next, the glued lip is not yet strong, so I took the shirt again and glued it from the inside, 2 layers. The lip took two shirts. For strength in building materials, I bought reinforcing mesh and glued it with it. Well, then there was sanding, priming, painting.
Regarding the grip of the lip... on my first trip out of town I updated it :) (high speed + swelling on the road), in the 3rd photo it is just under repair.
Well, it came to the spoiler... I did the fastenings like this: I cut out 1.5 mm plates from sheet steel, drilled 3 mm holes in increments of 2-3 cm, for better adhesion and to reduce weight, I bent them in an L shape, and welded two 6 mm nuts at the base. . Then I glued them into foam blanks, covered the wing blade with a couple of layers of fabric and assembled everything. And then, lo and behold, a man known under the nickname Paperman told me where there is fiberglass, and I’ll tell you that the only thing better than fiberglass is carbon fiber :) (if you can find it), it’s lighter and stronger.
A few tips: as practice has shown, the lip glued together not from fiberglass will simply crumbles, like a cookie, and the reinforcing mesh doesn’t help :(, so be sure to look for fiberglass or carbon fiber, otherwise all your work will go down the drain after a small blow. I applied the glue with a brush, it then washes off remarkably well in a solvent, but it’s cheaper and odorless and can be washed under running water hot water. Do not prepare a lot of glue at once, you may not have time to use it all (my largest portions were 200 ml). To prevent foam chips from sticking to you, touch your kitchen faucet frequently to relieve the electricity.
I advise you to glue at least three layers of fiberglass (on the spoiler it turned out to be 4 + two layers of tights and mesh). Naturally, not all at once, but at intervals necessary for at least a small polymerization of the resin. By the way, epoxy glue polymerizes and does not dry. Moreover, this process accelerates several times with more high temperature(up to 120 C, if I'm not mistaken), so for him the main thing is time and temperature.
Having glued the spoiler, I re-routed the wires in it, because in addition to the stop bar I also wanted side lights. Then I skipped the puttying operation, but in vain, it takes a very long time to remove the surfaces with just a primer, and the resulting layer is too thick. Well, after suffering for almost a month with sanding, I started painting. There are generally two options: give it to specialists or paint it yourself. Of course, specialists will do better, but since everything is done with your own hands, why not paint it. I bought 3 cans of black spray paint and painted it.
The glass for the stop bar was made from epoxy. It would be better, of course, to find a rod of the appropriate size made of plexiglass or plexiglass (something transparent and fileable), but I could not find one.
Car before and after:
The costs are as follows (for the lip, license plate stand and spoiler) RUR:
Styrofoam - fit into one sheet, and there is still =70 left.
Fiberglass - it took about 2 m for 55 rubles = 110.
Fastenings and welding - scrap metal and oxygen from friends for beer = 20.
Shirts - I wanted to throw them away, my hand didn’t raise = 0.
LEDs 12 mm - 2x7=14.
Neon lights in spoiler = 300 *
.
Paint - it took two cans = 140.
Primer, 3 jars of 65 = 195.
Epoxy glue - I can’t say for sure, but approximately 2 kg (let’s say 8 bottles of 60 each) = 480.
Foam sealant = 540*
.
Wires - 2 meters = 10.
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces = 15.
Grid = 20.
Sandpaper = 100
Total 2014 rubles, although not counting the foam sealant and stop bar, then 1174. I did all this for 3 (three) months. So, if you have a lot of enthusiasm and patience for the cargo train, then go ahead :) But I’m still going to make the rear and front bumpers (not very beautiful lip it turned out, as they say, the first pancake is lumpy), ears and maybe a hood trim, but I won’t paint it myself.
Nowadays, car stores offer a considerable variety of all kinds of spoilers. However, often those that you like in appearance are partially not suitable in size. Or those that fit perfectly fall somewhat short in terms of characteristics.
What can you make a car spoiler from with your own hands?
If you encounter similar problems, then, of course, there is an option to buy a ready-made spoiler, and if there is not enough length, simply saw the object and make an insert. The time required is minimal, but here the cost of the material and paint is added to the cost of the spoiler itself. And this turns out to be quite expensive.
Creating a spoiler from scratch is profitable (the average cost is about 25-35 dollars) and convenient.
In order to make your own spoiler to your liking and necessary requirements, we will need:
Styrofoam;
- epoxy adhesive;
- Sheet steel;
- fiberglass or old silk-look shirts;
- paint of the required color.
You can paint with a brush or.
Spoiler creation process
Working with polystyrene foam is quite simple, but there is one caveat. After cutting, a lot of debris remains, which is very well electrified and can stick to the drying element at the most crucial moments. Therefore, try to remove the crumbs immediately.
We cut a sheet of foam plastic measuring 1x1 and 4.5 cm thick (sellers usually say 5 cm) diagonally. Cut out the wing blade. So the width of the foam sheet will definitely be enough for you. Next we move on to the fastenings. It is necessary to cut 1.5 mm plates from sheet steel. We drill 3 mm holes with a distance of approximately 2-3 cm. In order to reduce weight and improve adhesion, bend them with the letter L. After these manipulations, weld two 6 mm nuts to the base. Now you can glue them into foam blanks.
We glue the wing blade with epoxy glue and two layers of fabric. Then we assemble the structure.
Working on the lip
The lip is done the same way - not very difficult. Remove the bumper and turn it over. Next, you need to glue the blank from foam plastic. We give it a shape and wrap it in plastic bags. Ideally, it is better to find ordinary nylon women's tights, pull them onto the uniform and coat them epoxy glue. When the two layers of tights are dry, you need to pull the blank out of the lip. The bags are needed just so that the blank can come off easily, since the epoxy glue does not stick to them. We leave the structure for several days so that the epoxy completely polymerizes.
Then we take the fabric and glue the lip from the inside again. In order to make the structure even more durable, the store building materials You can buy reinforcement mesh and glue it with it too. Next, we sand the structure, prime it and paint it. After the paint has completely dried.
Adviсe
1. Practice shows that a lip not made of fiberglass is quite vulnerable to impacts. Therefore, if you have the opportunity to purchase fiberglass, or better yet carbon fiber, the structures will be many times more impact-resistant and reliable.
2. Apply glue only with a brush, it is convenient and safe, and you can clearly calculate the amount of substance. The brush can be washed well in a solvent or running hot water.
3. Do not prepare all the glue at once, there is a possibility that you will not have time to use it up. The largest portion at a time should be no more than 200 ml.
4. If you did not manage to remove the foam chips in time, then try to touch the water tap in the kitchen more often, this will remove the electricity.
5. If you use fiberglass, then for reliability, glue at least three layers of it. Usually the spoiler ends up with 4 layers of fiberglass, 2 layers of tights and mesh. Each layer must harden, allow the resin to polymerize.
6. If you want to speed up the polymerization process, increase the temperature.
7. If you take into account all these nuances and do not rush to assemble the lip and spoiler, then you can easily get what you have planned the first time.
Individuality for a car has always been highly valued. However, the desired result cannot always be obtained quickly, efficiently and relatively inexpensively. To stylishly change the appearance of their favorite car, owners often use tuning body kits. Such decorations can not only make a car stand out from the crowd, but also protect it to some extent.
After all, it’s unlikely that anyone would covet a conspicuous car to steal it. It is easy to spot on the streets or parking lots. Therefore, by attaching a purchased bumper or installing a spoiler with your own hands, the owner not only makes the car stylish, but also hangs a kind of amulet on it.
A spoiler installed on the rear of a car is also called a wing.
At correct installation and certain calculations, the body kit part improves the aerodynamic properties of the car.
It also helps to slightly reduce fuel consumption; power is added by reducing air resistance.
Step-by-step manufacturing algorithm
To shape the wing, it is necessary to make a matrix. It will initially outline the contours of the product. Then the entire future structure is given rigidity. On next stage A primer, paint and a layer of automotive varnish are applied to the product. After manufacturing, the finished product is installed.
Foam spoiler
We will tell you step by step how to make a spoiler with your own hands. One of the most common frame bases for such a body kit is a strip of galvanized iron. Two L-shaped bends are made along both edges at 90 degrees. In the future, the entire structure will be fixed on such “legs”.
Step 1. Making a metal frame 
Step 2. Glue the foam 
Step 4. Paint and varnish 
Step 5. Install on car
After this, the metal “skeleton” should be overgrown with foam “meat”. White lightweight material can be easily processed with any fine-toothed saw and polished sandpaper.
After preparing the matrix, you will need to fix it with carbon fiber.
It is advisable to apply at least three layers. This will provide high-quality texture and additional rigidity to the product. It is advisable to take short breaks between laying layers to allow the resin to polymerize. In some cases, you can use an industrial hair dryer to speed up the process.
Installation of alarm LED backlight is performed at this stage.
This way the wires will not be visible, they can be covered with layers of texture, and the LEDs can easily be mounted in any area.
After complete drying, you can prime the surface to impart adhesive properties. Irregularities must be filled with putty. This stage forms final surface. After it there will only be a primer, applying several layers of paint and varnish.
Foam wing
To perform this operation, you must first close plastic film the top of the trunk. After that polyurethane foam Fill the prepared surface and wait for it to dry. Next, using a sharply sharpened knife, we form the product. For finishing you will need to work with sandpaper.
Step 1. Foam the base 
Step 2. Cut out the blank 
Step 3. Apply carbon fiber 
Step 4. Install LEDs 
Step 5. Sanding with sandpaper 
Step 6. Paint and polish 
Step 7. Installation on a car
Rigidity is also achieved using carbon fiber reinforced plastic (fiberglass).
At the final stages, the tuning part is puttied, and then primed and varnished.
Plaster spoiler
Duplication of spoilers can be done using plaster. To do this you will need an original tuning part. We wrap this spoiler with film and then place it in a foam box. Pour gypsum solution inside and wait for it to harden. Then we carefully get rid of the foam and saw the hardened plaster so as not to damage the original product.
Step 1. Making a mold for casting 
Step 2. Lay the sample and fill it with plaster 
Step 3. Sawing the shape and removing the workpiece 
Step 4. Pour the future spoiler into the mold and remove it after drying
After this we have a gypsum matrix. We put polyethylene in it as a gasket and fill in a portion of gypsum. Having opened the halves of the matrix after hardening, we take out the workpiece. Next, finishing, reinforcing and painting operations are carried out.
Conclusion
When manufacturing using any of the proposed methods, care must be taken to ensure that the structure has high-quality rigidity characteristics.
After all, during installation or further operation, a low-quality tuning product can not only fall apart itself, but also cause damage to a car, including someone else’s. Also, the fastening should provide reliable fixation and prevent loss of the body kit.
Spoilers from a car store are not always suitable for your car. It happens that a few centimeters are missing. You can, of course, cut a brand new spoiler, making an insert of the required length, but you can make a spoiler yourself, reducing its cost by almost half! A nice bonus is that you can shape the spoiler to your own taste. We stock up on time and get to work.
When choosing between polyurethane foam sealant and polystyrene foam, we are inclined to favor the latter, due to its obviously low comparative cost. We will need a sheet of polystyrene foam, 5 cm thick and 1 x 1 m in size. We cut the wing blade diagonally, otherwise the width of the sheet simply will not be enough. Next we make a stand for the number.
As you know, Japanese numbers are smaller than Russian ones and more square, which is why our numbers don’t look right in the places allocated for them. We cut out the blank and take epoxy glue in a paper box. Instead of fiberglass, old silk fabrics from unnecessary things are suitable. It will take you a couple of days to glue the stand, and sanding and painting will also take a few days. In this case, it is better to take the paint in cans and cover it with varnish on top.
The result is this:
Then... not a spoiler - the lip. It's easier to do. We remove and turn over the bumper, glue the foam blank. It was weakly held on the bumper with the help of silicone auto sealant. We remove it and give it shape. Then we wrap it in polyethylene bags. You can use women's tights. We simply stretch them in two layers onto the mold and coat them with epoxy glue. Once they are completely dry, remove the blank from the lip.
And in order to avoid problems with this, bags are exactly what is needed, since epoxy does not stick to them. Only after a few days or even a week does it completely polymerize, although it seems to have dried out within a day. However, a lot here depends on the hardener, or more precisely, on its quantity: the more of it, the faster the epoxy polymerizes, but at the same time it becomes more fragile. It’s also good to add a payer for flexibility.
Even after this, the glued lip does not have the required strength, so we glue two more layers of silk fabric and a reinforcing mesh from the inside for strength. But instead of silk, it is better to use fiberglass or carbon fiber so that the lip does not crumble! Even the reinforcement mesh doesn't help! Then we start sanding, after which we apply a primer, and start painting.
Let's get to the spoiler. We make fastenings by cutting out plates from 1.5 mm sheet steel, drilling holes in increments of 2-3 cm, 3 mm wide, and welding two 6 mm nuts at the base. After that, we glue them into the foam blanks we have.
Then we cover the wing blade with two layers of fabric and assemble it. Apply the glue with a brush, then wash it in a solvent or under running hot water. You should not prepare a lot of glue at once, more than 200 ml, it is difficult to use it all in one go.
To prevent foam chips from sticking to you, touch the faucet often - this will help relieve static. It is best to glue up to 3 layers of fiberglass at intervals to allow the resin to polymerize. This process accelerates several times at temperatures up to 120 C.
We glue the spoiler, putty and paint it with three cans of black paint.
You can make a piece of glass for the stop bar from plexiglass or plexiglass, but in in this case, it is made of epoxy.
New spoiler installed. Let's summarize the materials spent:
polystyrene foam - one sheet;
fiberglass about 2 m;
fastening and welding;
LEDs 12 mm – 2 pcs.;
neon lighting in the spoiler;
two cans of paint;
3 cans of primer;
epoxy glue about 2 kg;
wires – 2 meters;
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces;
sandpaper.
And all this work took 2 months. If you are enthusiastic enough, get started! But it’s still better to paint it in a salon.