How to install partitions from plasterboard and profiles. How to make a plasterboard partition with a door, with your own hands (step-by-step instructions)

To make a room unique and original, designers use methods of zoning rooms. One of these methods is interior partitions. There are many types of partitions ( brick, wood, glass etc.), but the most optimal choice- This is a partition made of plasterboard. It is light, durable, does not take up much space, and most importantly, you can build it yourself. Let's find out how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands - step-by-step instruction this process will make your task easier.

Plasterboard partition in the interior of the house

During construction, houses are most often not provided internal partitions, but only load-bearing walls. This is done so that the owners themselves decide what size rooms they want and where to place the partitions. To implement various ideas, you can use a material such as drywall. It is not heavy, bends easily and will help fulfill any designer’s fantasy.

Plasterboard partitions can be used to zone space, complement furniture, a television area or an aquarium, create beautiful niches and simply beautiful decorative partition. With its help, you can create beautiful shaped elements that will move from the partition to the ceiling or adjacent walls, create interesting lighting (all cables will be safely hidden inside the structure), or create niches for storing books, favorite trinkets and paintings. It all depends on the flight of fancy of the owner of the premises. And such a wonderful material as drywall will help bring this beauty to life.

Note: The main advantage of such structures is easy dismantling. For example, if your life changes, you can easily remove such a partition during renovation and make a new one in another place, or simply expand the space in the room.

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction.

Making a partition from plasterboard yourself is not difficult. Let's look at how to do this. To carry out the work you will need:

1. Screwdriver and hammer drill.
2. Guide and rack profile.
3. Self-tapping screws and dowels.
4. Plumb, level or laser level.
5. Drywall.
6. Tape measure and marker.
7. Construction knife.
8. Metal scissors.
9. Hammer.
10. Reinforcing tape.
11. Primer, putty and spatula.

In addition, if the partition has switches or lighting, you will need:

• cables;
• sockets;
• switches and lamps.

To begin, choose a place for future design and using a level we draw the exact location of the guide profiles along the perimeter of the partition.

Tip: For more accurate markings, it is better to use a laser level. But since this is an expensive item, it can be rented from the appropriate organizations.

At the next stage, we measure the required size of the profiles and cut it off. You can start installation. We apply the profile to the wall along the mark and drill holes for the dowels with a hammer drill. The distance between the holes is 30 - 40 cm. The perimeter of the partition is mounted in this way.

Next, the rack profiles are mounted. We measure the height of the room using a tape measure or other measuring devices and cut the profile 10 mm smaller. First, profiles are installed at the location of the opening. The horizontal jumper is cut out the right size and is secured with self-tapping screws on profiles installed in the location of the doorway.

Tip: If you plan to install a door in an opening, the profiles should be strengthened with wooden beam, inserted in the middle.

After this, the remaining profiles are placed at a distance of 60 cm or at the rate of 3 profiles per 1 sheet of drywall.

Rack profiles are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws. Now you can install the drywall sheets. To do this, the height of the sheet should be 10 mm less than the room. If the sheet is larger than the required size, it can be cut using a construction knife.

On the cut edge we make a chamfer at an angle of 300 for convenient filling of the wall. The drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, first to the middle profile, and then to the outer ones. The distance between the screws is 25 – 30 cm.

After covering one side of the partition, we lay the cables for future wiring through the holes in the profiles. Now you can lay soundproofing material and sew up the structure on the other side. After attaching the drywall, the joints and screw locations should be treated with a primer. Next, apply putty to the joints, glue the reinforcing tape and putty again. To install lamps or switches, we make holes using a cutter. The partition is ready. For a more aesthetic appearance of the partition, the entire surface of the drywall should be puttied.

To know detailed information For installation of a plasterboard partition, see the video:

Where would a plasterboard partition be appropriate?

As you know, a partition is a lightweight version of a wall, the main function of which is to divide space. But there are also partitions that serve decorative element in the room and are a decoration. For example, a plasterboard partition will fit perfectly in the bedroom for highlighting the dressing area or emphasize sleeping area in a studio apartment. She can serve in one-room apartment for visual zoning and dividing a room into several separate rooms. In its cavity you can hide various communications(cables, pipes, installations for wall-hung toilets).

It's also possible beat the aquarium, which will be visible from two rooms or television zone. Using a partition you can hide built-in furniture and give the room lightness and space. A highlight openings using arched structures is now available to everyone, since these building materials are not expensive. Can make a partition with shelves for books and other little things needed in the household. And decorative lighting will give the room lightness and airiness.

Do not stop at the proposed options; any idea you implement will add comfort and individuality to your home.

Photos of interior partitions

As can be seen in the photographs of interior partitions presented on various sites on the Internet, everything that was described earlier is a small part of what can be done using plasterboard partitions. Such designs can be presented in various architectural styles and directions in design. Below are photos of some original ideas plasterboard partitions.

Plasterboard partition - inexpensive and convenient way change the layout of the apartment. This material allows you to independently change the internal structure of the apartment, create your own individual design and delimit the premises into clear zones. In new apartments, as a rule, the number of partitions is kept to a minimum so that the owner can use drywall to zone the room to his liking.

Advantages of plasterboard partitions

Drywall - relatively new material, it first went on sale about 15 years ago. At the same time, in the construction of interior partitions, it very quickly replaced traditional brick and foam block. This is due to the following advantages:

• Flexibility and the ability to cut any shape, which opens up new design possibilities.
• Easy to install - drywall is installed with a minimum of tools and effort.
• The ability to regulate humidity in the apartment.
• Moisture-resistant types of drywall are suitable for bathroom partitions.
• The light weight of the material does not put a load on the supporting structures.
• Environmental friendliness and safety of the material.
• Low cost of drywall compared to brick and foam block.

Modern drywall practically does not burn, which makes it good choice to provide fire safety.

Preparation

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for installing it - we will tell you further. If you follow this, you can easily and without problems build a partition from plasterboard with your own hands. The work is divided into the following stages:

1. Marking.
2. Installation of the frame.
3. Installation of drywall.
4. Laying insulating materials.

The first stage is marking. It is not particularly difficult, you just need to take measurements of the room, transfer them to paper and calculate required amount building materials. Having carried out such calculations, you need to purchase the following materials:

• Plasterboard thickness from 6 to 12.5 mm. Its thickness varies depending on the expected load on the walls.
• Metallic profile. Its width ranges from 50 to 100 mm, the choice depends on the load on the wall.
• Vertical posts for the frame.
• Self-tapping screws. Their choice depends on the material used for the walls of the building. To screw them in you need a screwdriver.
• Plumb for measurements.
• Insulating materials - mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
• To install a partition in a concrete building, you will need a hammer drill.

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

After purchasing all necessary tools and materials, you can begin installing the partition.

Frame

The basis of the future partition is the frame, and the strength and aesthetics of the structure depend on the correct installation. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for a plasterboard partition frame are very important, since this stage is the most difficult.

So, its installation looks like this:

1. A line is drawn along the ceiling, exactly perpendicular opposite walls. Control points are lowered plumb to the floor and a similar line is drawn along them.
2. Using a screwdriver, profiles are installed on the floor, ceiling and walls. They need to be secured especially carefully, since they bear the main load.
3. Vertical supports are attached to the profiles, at the rate of three pieces per sheet of drywall. In this case, the joints of adjacent sheets will be on the same support, and there should also be a stand in the center of each sheet.

To ensure sound insulation, you can lay a self-adhesive seal between the profiles and the wall, and only then screw them in with self-tapping screws. If heavy furniture will be hung on the wall, the step between the vertical supports should be no more than 40 cm.

Drywall installation

Installing drywall is not difficult. Its sheets are installed in a vertical position, and the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets should not be located in a row. Fastening is carried out as follows:

• The self-tapping screw should be located no closer than 5 cm from the corners of the drywall, and 1.5 cm from its edges.
• The heads of the screws need to be recessed into the drywall as much as possible so that they do not subsequently stick out.

For cutting drywall, a simple stationery knife, which must be used in combination with the rule. The knife does not need to go too deep into the sheet; a 2 mm cut is enough, after which it will break on its own.

Insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of a plasterboard partition is also done according to step-by-step instructions. She insulates the partition and prevents noise penetration. The most environmentally friendly and fireproof option is mineral wool, but polystyrene foam can also be used. The insulation should be installed after the drywall has been installed on one side of the wall. As a rule, the material comes in the form of slabs and does not need to be particularly secured. After installing the insulation, you should complete the sheathing with plasterboard. After this you can start decorative design partitions.

Today it is difficult to imagine renovating an apartment in an old building without redevelopment. They change the configuration or number of rooms with their own hands using interior partitions. They are created from suitable building material– brick, foam block or gypsum fiber board. But the simplest and practical solution space divisions - interior.

Why drywall? It is easy to install with your own hands, durable, and the weight of the gypsum board is small. The sheet is small in thickness, so the structure made from it does not take up extra space. In addition, gypsum plasterboard is a good soundproofing plus fire-resistant material. The main thing is that you build such a plasterboard wall with your own hands. GCR forgives mistakes, and flat wall Even inexperienced builders can make it work.

Dividing a room with gypsum board sheets

For the work you will need plasterboard, a rack and guide profile, soundproofing material, screws, dowels and tools. After puttying the surface new wall you will have to paint it, put wallpaper on it or ceramic tiles. Material for finishing is also necessary.

Veteran builders recommend Knauf materials. For DIY work, it is better to choose them. It doesn’t matter whether it’s slabs, profiles, putty or primer - Knauf quality is always at its best. Knauf mineral wool is used as sound insulation in residential premises and industrial facilities.

Before the purchase Supplies calculate the required quantity. For this purpose, it is determined whether the partition will be multilayer. As a rule, it is made of a single layer, but sometimes it is necessary to strengthen it with a second layer of gypsum board, for example, if you plan to attach heavy structures to it - a boiler or a hanger.

The strength of the structure depends on the thickness of the profile - load-bearing (CW) and guide (UW). It must be at least 0.55 mm.

The profiles are connected using so-called fleas - self-tapping screws 11 mm long. They have a sharp tip or a gimlet and drill through metal up to 2 mm. It's difficult to use them - they always try to slip out and get lost. Therefore, if you are planning to do the repairs yourself, buy them with a reserve, and when working, use the PH-2 nozzle. Self-tapping screws with a tip without a gimlet are preferable.

Installation materials

For attaching guides to main walls and the ceiling requires dowels and screws, which are driven in with a hammer. A suitable dowel is 6 mm in diameter. If the wall has a loose surface, use dummies and self-tapping screws with a diameter that is 1-2 mm smaller. For a metal frame, you need screws for metal 2.5 cm long, and for a wooden frame - the same length, but for wood.

During the lining process, the structure is prepared for installation of electrical wiring and other communications. To do this, cutouts should be provided in the plaster. Draw an approximate connection diagram and follow it to avoid difficult to correct errors. Wires are distributed in free places and attached to the profile.

Sound insulation is carried out after covering one side of the partition. To do this, insulation – mineral wool – is laid between the profiles. It is cut a little wider and thicker than the opening so that it fits tightly between load-bearing profile. Its thickness is no less than the width of the partition. It is better to use large or whole pieces to get rid of cracks right away.

Sheathing

Don't forget about gloves, otherwise you can damage your hands. People suffering from respiratory diseases should wear a respirator. The cotton wool is installed in one “window” and the area is immediately covered with plaster. This will reduce the amount of dust in the air.

If on one side the cladding device goes in one direction, then on the other side the drywall is attached in the reverse order. This will eliminate the risk of seams matching on the uprights.

You can immediately close the opening with a sheet, and then make a cut on the spot with a knife (for example, a paint knife) or a hacksaw. About 60 self-tapping screws are required per sheet of drywall. Make sure that their caps are recessed when screwed in. This will make subsequent puttying easier.

What why

The work is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

• The gypsum board is screwed to the profile in increments of 25 cm. The second layer is attached with self-tapping screws every 60 cm.
• The edges of the scraps are processed with a rasp. Screws must not be screwed into corners and edges of sheets. They are separated by 5 cm and 1.5 cm, respectively.
• When one side is ready, the opposite side is completed.
• For greater confidence, the back side of the profile is glued with soundproofing tape.
• The slabs of the second layer are fastened in a checkerboard pattern so that the seams do not coincide with the seams of the first. The spacing is at least 40 cm.

Putty work

Preparing for finishing

When the wall is almost ready, they begin to putty. But first the seams are unstitched. The chamfer is made at 45 degrees using a knife. Next stage– primer, sealing seams with serpyanka and puttying. The seams are coated gypsum mixture using a spatula. The outer corners of the doorway are reinforced with a perforated corner profile.

When the seams are dry, treat the surface acrylic primer(preferably made by Knauf) and start puttingty. One layer of putty is enough if the surface is to be covered with wallpaper. If it is being prepared for painting, then another layer is needed - a finishing one.

After complete drying, grouting and sanding are required. This operation is performed using floats and grouting meshes with numbers from 100 to 150. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Knauf system

The Knauf company enjoys well-deserved trust among builders. IN Lately The so-called partitions according to the Knauf system have gained popularity. The difference from conventional ones is that their installation is carried out exclusively using materials from this manufacturer.

The Knauf profile is known for the fact that after connecting the parts, no irregularities or unnecessary protrusions appear on the resulting wall. This helps save on subsequent finishing.

The video shows the process of installing an interior partition from gypsum plasterboard:

Knauf technology involves the use of moisture-resistant sheets own production. Knauf also offers complete kits for assembling frames of varying complexity. They include profiles, corners and other elements of various shapes - it’s practically a construction kit. The material is characterized by increased resistance to mechanical stress and water. The company offers five standard sizes of gypsum boards, which helps speed up assembly. As insulation and sound insulator, Knauf mineral wool is recommended, which has best characteristics in your class.

In contact with

Hello, hello, our brave drywallers. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of plasterboard partitions. To be specific, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - C 111 according to the Knauf classification, because Such partitions are the most widespread. Let's deal with general principles their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and connecting several partitions to each other. As an example, we will take a corner partition with a doorway, this is usually used to enclose pantries and dressing rooms (essentially nurseries for moths) to store pickles/jams and all sorts of junk that is long overdue for disposal.

Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment have completely dried.

First, let's get acquainted with the special profiles used to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack profiles. To be more precise, there are rack-mount PS (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Dimensions of guide profiles: 40×50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, profiles with a width of 100 mm will be used. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guide has straight shelves, like the horns of the letter U, and the rack has curved shelves, like the C. By the way, the side edges of the profiles are called shelves, and the rear walls are called walls. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mount, i.e. wall from the German “Wand”.

Knauf rack and guide profiles

They are in a conjugate version

Once again we repeat that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of their rigidity, but also because their design allows them to be inserted into each other, thereby lengthening and strengthening them on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not have this option. The walls of the PN already have ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.

Dimensions of rack profiles: 50×50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th racks are rather weak, so we advise all of you to take the 75th or 100th. In the walls of the Knauf rack profiles there are 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.

1. Guide profiles KNAUF PN 100×40 mm
2. Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100×50 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separator tape
5. “Dowel-nails” (another name for “Quick installation”) 6×40 mm
6. Cord release device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Aluminum rule 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. Hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting HA)
15. Hammer + drill
16. Screwdriver and cutter
17. Metal screws 3.5×25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x13mm or shorter
19. Metal scissors or grinder
20. Mineral wool ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Schumanet, etc.
21. Narrow and wide spatulas

On the next slide on the left there is a self-tapping screw with a press washer; it is used to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with and without a drill. They are designated LB and LN, respectively. On the slide is the LN option. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a self-tapping screw for drywall. More precisely, it is still made of metal, but it is used for attaching GK sheets to profiles. That’s why it’s most often called that – a self-tapping screw for drywall. Has a secret, so-called carob, head. Designated as TN. There is also a TB, with a drill at the end, but you can do just fine without it, 0.6 mm TN steel can be easily taken.

Self-tapping screws for installation of gypsum plasterboard structures

Instructions for installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands.

Step 1. Marking

For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly advisable to pre-align it with the beacons. We draw a line as a continuation of the wall on the ceiling, making a right angle using a simple square. This line is the internal boundary of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But first we need to mount the frame, and the dimensions for it are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame; you can make everything simpler. How? You'll find out very soon...

Marking lines on the ceiling

For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.

Transferring markings to the floor

And now here in front of you is the very simplified method of marking PN.

Marking holes for fasteners

The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles, cut to size, and then placed along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the sheets of civil code are sewn on, the rule will not “jump” at the wall/partition border. Pieces of plasterboard should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We align the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.

From a different angle

Step 2. Attaching the PN

Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and on the profiles in mandatory sealing tape is applied. Its absence can completely ruin the entire sound insulation of the future partition. With it, the connection to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.

Fastening the profile to dowel-nails

Floor guides

Near the opening

On the ceiling

We do not unscrew the pieces of plasterboard from the profiles until we secure the PN in all the right points. There are often situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and this can be done in one step - through the profile into the base. The main thing is to carefully ensure that the boundaries of the gypsum board pieces clearly coincide with the marking lines. After securing the guides on the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rules and make sure that they lie strictly on the same line.

It is necessary to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually the pitch of the fastenings is made around 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the pitch is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide the PN into several segments. We do the same thing on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of plasterboard, but do not throw them away, they will be useful to us later...

Step 3. Fastening wall substations

Attaching racks to walls

We cut the rack profiles to the height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls directly through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We hammer the dowel nails into these holes again. Don't forget to seal the profile walls with sealing tape! And control them with rules, they should not bend. By the way, the height of the PS should be less height ceilings in the room by at least 1 centimeter. They should not support the ceiling.

The length of the racks is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling

As you can see, there is some distance between the rack profile and the floor.

Step 4: Installing the Frame Posts

The rack profiles of the frame are installed in increments of 60 cm. If tiles are laid on the partition, then in increments of 40 cm. The profiles of the doorway are extraordinary, and they do not affect the spacing of the remaining substations. The slide shows profiles placed at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. The near PS just forms the doorway.

Partition frame posts

To reliably form an opening, the side PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles match in height. Inserting the PS into each other is not an easy task; sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.

PSs are placed in one direction - with the wall facing the corner from which the plasterboard covering will begin. Weight Limit door leaf, which can withstand a pair of PS-100 - 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. The profiles can be secured to the guides using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (temporarily). Before installing the gypsum board stripe, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.

Stands in place

Yes, PSs are installed in one direction, because fastening the sheets should begin from that part of the profile flange that is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile flange, and it may bend. On the slide you can see almost finished frame partitions. Let's take a look at how an outer corner is formed correctly...

Forming an external corner

Frame from another angle

One of the rack profiles is turned with its wall outward, and the second one faces us with a shelf. Between them there is a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard; we laid it at the stage of attaching the PN. Thus, the Civil Code sheet with inside the partition will be wound, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.

Step 5. Jumper

Jumper from PN

All that remains for us is to make a lintel for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by cutting its shelves obliquely and bending part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and bend it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts using 2-3 LN self-tapping screws.

Installing a jumper in the frame

Now our frame is completely finished. Electrical cables can be passed through the frame. But you should not place them inside the profiles, as they can be pierced with TN screws when covering the gypsum board.

Step 6. Sheathing gypsum boards

Covering the frame with plasterboard

BEFORE jumpers

There are several rules here.

• We have already mentioned the first - you cannot join sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
• Secondly, cross-shaped joints of the “+” type are unacceptable, only of the “t” type.
• Third - the joints of sheets with the inner and with outside should be shifted horizontally by a profile step, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as supports. After all, HA sheets cannot be placed directly on the floor; they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
• And they shouldn’t reach the ceiling either, about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.

To secure the drywall to the double studs of the opening, you can use small metal drills. Otherwise, very often the screws simply jam the inside of the profile. First, drill holes through the plasterboard, then screw the screws into them. Of course, the sheets can only be joined horizontally on profiles, which means that we must make PS jumpers at the joints. See what they look like on the next slide.

PS jumpers

These are sections of ordinary rack profiles. Once again, you need to start attaching them from the side of the shelf that is closer to the wall. When installing jumpers, it is advisable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of profiles while you twist the screws in them. Once all the jumpers have been placed, you can lay sound insulation slabs (mineral wool) between the profiles. Our favorite is ISOVER. When laying, we try not to leave unfilled areas. It should be cut with a margin of about 5 cm so that it rests against the profiles and thus stays in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use goggles, a respirator and gloves!

Sheathing process

Sheathing process 2

Finished cladding

The pitch of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, every 10-15 cm. Make sure that the heads of the screws are recessed into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the screw should be twisted. What is also important is that the screws must enter at a strictly right angle. They must be spaced from the end edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 15 mm and longitudinal edge- not less than 10 mm. By the way, gypsum boards can only be mounted in a vertical position! If the room is planned suspended ceiling, under it in the partition it is advisable to mount mortgages from PS, into which we recommend additionally inserting timber of the appropriate size.

I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the jumpers on both sides of the partition, and not just on the joint side. It is advisable to guess the location of the sheets on outer corner so that they would lie on it with the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will go deeper and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive humanity has long been using a special corner-protective paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that in our country it’s hard to find one, so our Stone Age has dragged on, and we still use outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.

And here are the promised pairings:

Right outside corner

Cross mate

T-joint

And here is a video from Knauf:

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Interior partitions from plasterboard – perfect solution for residential and free premises. Complete systems offered by both domestic and foreign companies allow you to implement the assigned tasks in the shortest possible time and avoid unnecessary procedures. Main building elements designs are those that are joined together strictly according to technology and auxiliary components.

Advantages of plasterboard partitions

Compared to other materials, gypsum plasterboard partitions have many advantages:

• Simplicity of the device;
• No wet processes;
• Easy disassembly of the structure or part of it during complete dismantling, or the need to replace the damaged area;
• Versatility. GKL can be installed in any premises, including those with high humidity conditions and fire safety requirements (GKLO, GKLV, GKLVO);
• Perfect smooth surface after installation of sheets, ease of further finishing;
• Light weight;
• Small cash costs - 800-1000 rubles per m2 (without the involvement of specialists - 400-500 rubles / m2).



Attention! The installation of a wall between rooms is part of the redevelopment. Before the beginning repair work it is necessary to contact the BTI to legitimize the process. Possible consequences– fine up to 2.5 thousand rubles. (V apartment buildings), or the need to bring the premises back to their previous form (dismantling).

When can you use a gypsum board partition?

The use of drywall to construct a wall between rooms is the best and always relevant option.



In addition to the advantages described above, the apartment owner gets the opportunity to create a full-fledged structure in which, if necessary, you can place.



Types of interior partitions

Frame between rooms followed by cladding plasterboard sheets There are 2 types and they differ:

• According to the material;
• By device type.



Galvanized metal profiles are also used as building materials. Horizontal guides and vertical wooden posts must be made of coniferous species and comply with GOST 8486-86. The main requirements for them are impregnation with antiseptic and flame resistance-increasing compounds, humidity - no more than 12%. The recommended dimensions of the guides and rack bars are 6x4 cm and 6x5 cm.



Metal elements are created on roll forming equipment from steel strip using the cold rolling method. They have a length from 50 cm to 5 meters. Longitudinal corrugations give rigidity to the profiles. The components are cut using metal scissors and joined together using cutters and self-tapping screws. To assemble the frame, two types of profiles are used:

• PS (rack-mount);
• PN (guides).



Rack profiles are used to form vertical racks, which in turn are placed between guides (PN) fixed to the floor and ceiling. Standard width rack profiles – 5 cm. This is quite enough for productive work. The chance of getting past the canvas while fastening the sheets with self-tapping screws is extremely low. The width of the guide profiles is 4 cm. They are also used to form jumpers.



The size of PS and PN is selected based on the height of the interior partition, requirements for soundproofing material, and the number of layers of gypsum plasterboard. For example, at height future wall 3 meters its thickness should be 7.5 cm. For this, a profile PN 50x40 mm and PS 50x50 mm are suitable (fastening step - 60 cm). The thickness of the insulation is taken to be 5 cm.

According to the type of device, partitions are:

• Single-layer, two-layer, three-layer on a single metal frame;
• Double-layer on a double metal frame;
• Double-layer on a double separated metal frame (a space is formed inside to accommodate communications);
• Single-layer and double-layer on a wooden frame.



Single and double metal carcass, sheathed with two or three sheets on each side, is used as a fire wall and is characterized by increased sound insulation properties.

The structures, based on the number of layers, have a certain height that cannot be exceeded to ensure the safety of the system. In this case, the indicators depend on the type of profiles used and the step of their location. So, the maximum height for a wall is:

• Single layer – 8 meters (step – 30 cm);
• Two-layer – 9 m (step – 30 cm);
• Three-layer – 9.5 m (step – 30 cm);
• Double-layer with double base – 6.5 m (step – 60 cm);
• Two-layer with a double spread base – 6.5 m (step – 60 cm).



The greater the height of the partition, the smaller the step between the rack profiles is chosen. For wooden bases the maximum height does not exceed 4.1 m. The distance of the beams from each other is taken to be 60 cm.

Step-by-step instructions for the device

Installation begins after wiring engineering communications, wet processes and until the final floor is formed. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Marking;
2. Fastening guide profiles;
3. Fastening rack profiles;
4. Laying wires through special holes;
5. Installation of embedded parts in places where heavy objects will be hung on the wall;
6. Installation of drywall on one side;
7. Placement between racks insulating material if necessary;
8. Installation of gypsum board sheets on the other side;
9. Sealing of seams, primer;
10. Laying flooring;
11. Finishing.

Depending on the required height walls, the number and thickness of gypsum plasterboard layers, sound insulation requirements, select the appropriate profiles. With a single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, a structure height of 3 meters, a thickness of 7.5 cm, take profiles PN50 (50x40 mm) and PS50 (50x50 mm). Take the step between the posts to be 60 cm. Similar posts and guides are suitable for heights of 4 and 5 meters, only in steps of 40 and 30 cm. In the guide profile, pre-drill holes for dowels at the required distance from each other, if they are missing. Do the same in the floor.

Step 1

Draw a straight line in the place where you want to place the partition (on the floor). Use a marker and a ruler for this. Draw similar lines at the same level to the ceiling and walls. Use a plumb line, or better yet, building level, it's faster. If you plan to install a door, make markings for it as well.

Step 2

Apply sealing tape to the guide profile. Lay it on the floor along the marked line. Fix with plastic anchor dowels. Follow the same steps to screw the PN to the ceiling, only using metal anchor dowels.

Step 3

Take the first one rack profile. Its length should be less distance from floor to ceiling by 10 mm. Place it in the space between the guides in their grooves (near the wall). Secure the elements with LN or LB type self-tapping screws with a length of at least 9 mm, a notch, or air gun. Mount the second vertical profile, then all the rest with the required step. Take into account the fact that the joint of the sheets should be in the middle of the profile. Apply soundproofing tape in the place where the gypsum board will future adjoin the ceiling on both sides.

Step 4

Install the first sheet of gypsum board tightly. Fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 mm so that there is a gap of 1 cm between it and the floor. Make the connection from the center to the edges or in two perpendicular planes, without fastening drywall to the guides on the floor and ceiling. Place the gypsum boards at the horizontal joints additional profiles to add rigidity. Place them apart. Repeat the process until the entire frame is covered on one side.

Step 5

Lay electrical low-current wires in the space of the future wall through the holes in the profiles (perpendicular to vertical posts). Carry out installation soundproofing material(avoid voids). Connect the sheets with the profiles so that their horizontal joints do not coincide with those on the opposite side. In this case, the vertical joints should be shifted by the pitch of the racks.

Note! If it is planned, additional racks are mounted under it, which are obtained by joining two PN profiles to each other. A horizontal jumper is placed between the racks at the required height. Additional vertical racks are placed between it and the ceiling.

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