How to stick a melamine edge: technology and step-by-step instructions with photos and videos. Secrets of using PVC edges at the edge banding stage Corner cutting of PVC edges

Subscribe
Join the koon.ru community!
In contact with:

This describes the process of pasting the ends of chipboard with a conventional paper edge using a conventional iron.

For gluing, the most suitable is an ordinary Soviet-made iron with a temperature regulator.

In most cases and for most edges, the optimal temperature regime exposed almost reaching the third division.

On short parts, up to 40 cm long, the entire length at once.

On long sections of 40-45 cm.

An indicator of a well-heated edge is the sagging of the edge under the iron, because. melted adhesive layer.

An insufficiently heated edge will not adhere well to the end and subsequently, if not immediately, will begin to peel off.

However, edge overheating is also undesirable. because the glue simply burns out and the edge does not stick.

Immediately after the edge section has been warmed up, we smooth it to the end with a cloth (felt, etc.).

The edge cools down quickly enough, so you should not smooth it for a long time. It’s better to immediately go to another section of it, thereby avoiding a trace of the transition.

For the same reasons, when warming up the edge, we “carry” the iron along the edge without holding it in one place for too long.

That is, we simply perform the same actions as when ironing clothes. The principle is the same.

Now we move on to trimming the excess edges. First, cut off the ends.

Then on the plane.

We hold the knife as shown in the photo. It is desirable to direct the cutting movements towards the part, and not outwards. Because not all edges are of the same level of moisture and quality, therefore, on drier edges, when the knife is moved “outward”, ugly scuff marks of the front layer may form, which will be difficult to remove even with subsequent grouting with sandpaper.

Also, with the help of an iron, you can remove the previously glued edge.

1. heat the edge section, pry it off and separate it from the part ....

(LDSP) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option- edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.

PVC

Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature range: from -5 ° C to + 45 ° C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:


This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. On the reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to the ideal state by fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

S- or P- shaped profiles most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then it is given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, an iron or building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. Also handle the edges drawers(not facades).

On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees good result v a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

An easy way to stick PVC edge

The easiest way to stick a PVC edge is to order hot melt glue to be rolled onto the edge in any furniture workshop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or a hair dryer (naturally, not with an ordinary hair dryer, but with a technical one, which gives 500-600 degrees at the output). I myself did not use this method, so I can only tentatively talk about the negative aspects of it, based on work experience with material.

I glue the PVC edge on the usual rubber glue sold by us in bulk. Best for "Moment", "88" is also suitable.

Knife and other hand cutting tools for PVC processing are not suitable. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the effort nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay for itself.

To process such an edge, you will need a router. In fact, a special edge router is used for these purposes:

But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. It is better to purchase a normal, large milling cutter. In addition to processing PVC, it is useful for finishing the ends, and for grooving - both at the ends of the panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then you simply need a router!

It is not necessary to buy a cool and expensive, quite good Phiolent routers - a reliable semi-professional

Cutter cutter ABS edging

For processing PVC edges, the following cutter is used:

Therefore, the first step will be to slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform. . It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material 4-5 mm thick. You can fix it on screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to drown the hats or glue!

Now you need to adjust the cutter height. On the processed panel, this should not be done. It is unlikely that the first time you will be able to accurately adjust the height. Take some scrap (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not swing), glue it with an edge, and set it up on it.

Usually, no matter how you set it up, a small protrusion remains after processing. This is not scary, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you finish tuning, do not throw away this cut - it will come in handy next time. When it becomes necessary to adjust the cutter height again, simply turn it cutting part perpendicular to the butt and lower the platform so that the cutter fits snugly on the machined edge.

The cutter is set, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will most likely be uneven, with the second pass we align all the protrusions and depressions:

It's in that order! If you change the pass order, the cutter will knock out and chip off the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and edge from adhering chips - the bearing can bounce on it and the cut will be uneven.

So, the panel you have processed with a milling cutter, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have a long manual processing, which takes two to three times more time. First you need to trim the hanging ends of the edge. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off by first cutting with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the butt so that it does not peel off. Cut not at the very root, but retreating somewhere by 0.5 mm. It is better to spend time sanding or sanding than cutting more than necessary.

No router cuts PVC perfectly. In any case, bumps will remain that will be clearly visible in the light. In most companies that manufacture furniture for sale, no one bothers with further processing - they cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, strike a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut and that's it.

But are you doing it for yourself? So get ready to spend the same amount of time to bring the cut to perfect condition. First of all, cut off the protrusion remaining after the router with a knife (if the height of the cutter is set correctly, then you will have to cut off a thin thread).

If you glued PVC on contact adhesive, then most likely there will be streaks and streaks of glue on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. And it is better to first remove them with a cloth moistened with solvent or gasoline. After that, walk along the cut with a fine sandpaper, aligning all the “ripples”, then polish it with felt.

Now you have a finished panel that is not inferior in quality to the one made on furniture factory, and maybe surpassing it!

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edge banding - this is melting of the PVC edge, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wavy formation on the edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, delamination of the edge from the part, 0.4 mm edge roughness, whitish edges and many more problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to write off everything on the quality of the edges.

So, you should first consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we are talking about using only PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

    gluing

    Facing

    Overhangs milling

    Cycling

    Polishing

Bonding of PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge bonding is carried out using glue - melt.


The likelihood of marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

    Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

    Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

    Take into account the parameters of chipboard (moisture, friability)

The edge melts when glued.


If you use a feed rate of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape, and not to the part. We recommend changing the working temperature of the glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, the surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - melt.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

It will be possible to correct the problem by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the tuberosity will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:

Such a problem is easily solved. Just move the additional pressure rollers.


Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end of the part.

When gluing edges PVC thick 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the adhesive to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and laminated chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

So, for example, for machines manual type When the part is moving around a fixed adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feeding When the workpiece moves around the adhesive unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to edging tape.

Milling of overhangs, scraping.


After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs if the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase cutter speed and decrease edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

Chips formed at the edges of the edge.

Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the speed of rotation of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.

Polishing.


In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, all the remnants of chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel with a separating liquid applied to the surface of the chipboard.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off bad edge banding for when changing suppliers.

In order to make sure that the edge does not fit, it is necessary to check its use on several modes / machines, check whether the temperature, feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the adhesive and much more.

Undoubtedly, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edge bands, we recommend that you choose materials based not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the stage of edge banding, it is necessary:

    Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

    Pay attention to how much the importer works in the market

    How many suppliers/factories the importer has (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the STANDARD PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve all the problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.

Types of end edges for furniture

In the manufacture of furniture from laminated edge chipboard parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Such an edge can also be obtained independently

Paper or melamine edges

The cheapest option is melamine impregnated paper edges. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.

Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. From the mass painted in a certain color, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

  • High mechanical resistance.
  • Withstand impact chemical substances (household chemicals, For example).
  • Moisture-resistant material protects the ends of the product from moisture.
  • PVC is an elastic material, which allows processing curved surfaces.
  • Well processed with simple fixtures which allows you to get a good result even at home.

Different edge thickness looks different

PVC furniture edge is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with an applied adhesive composition, there is - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature range: from -5 ° C to + 45 ° C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

  • Resistant to high and low temperatures, therefore, when gluing, you can use glue with any melting temperature. Slight shrinkage during heating - about 0.3%.
  • High mechanical stability.

Multiple options for ABS edging

This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. A pattern is applied on the reverse side of the strip. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Acrylic gives the picture volume

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

T-profile for furniture edges

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They coat the edge with it, then put on a plastic profile, press it well and fix it. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

Gluing a C-shaped furniture profile does not cause problems

If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then given the desired shape and fixed with masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

It is real to get such an edge at home

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.

On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

Laying the edge tape on the part

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges can be processed manual router, if he is. This guarantees a good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

You can even use a spatula with a hard blade

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To tightly press the edge to the cut, you can use a wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

We press hard, leaning with all our weight

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

Hello, tell me, is the fluoroplastic sole the same as the Teflon sole,? Thank you.

Not too, but Teflon will work too ..

Teflon and PTFE are the same material.

Thank you. Is it the same for those characteristics? Or does the heating time need less / more?

The heating time generally depends on the thickness of the lining. Teflon is an aluminum base with fluoroplastic coating ... In general, the modes are selected “on the spot”, since the irons are also different. Try to glue a couple of times on scraps ...

OK thank you very much!

Oh, I forgot one more thing, they told me in the store that the edge with glue for the machine is for sale and its type cannot be glued at home, are there any varieties? Or are you just gluing this on the video? Thank you.

Why can't it?

Where in Moscow can I buy pvc edging with glue applied?

Source: http://stroychik.ru/mebel/vidy-torcevyh-kromok

How to cut the edge of chipboard

Gluing melamine edging

Melamine edging is a traditional edging material used in the manufacture of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard. Despite the fact that today there are more wear-resistant edging materials, for example, based on PVC or ABS, melamine edging is one of the first places in terms of applicability. There are two main reasons for this: low price and simplicity of edging technology. Let's show how, with the help of simple and affordable tools, you can qualitatively edge a chipboard part.

Edging tools:

  1. Iron. Any will do, but preferably small, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and without deep scratches.
  2. Knife. You can work with an ordinary clerical (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. Also, a shoe knife and a knife from a planer are suitable. There are special ready-made devices for fast edge trimming, for example, from Virutex.
  3. Bar with sandpaper. You can buy ready-made or make it yourself by sticking a piece of sandpaper on a workpiece that is suitable in size (it is convenient when the bar has sandpaper of different grain sizes on different sides). The recommended grain size is 150 units.

Edge technology.

It should be said that the quality of the edging largely depends on how well the chipboard is cut. The end surface of the part should be flat, without a visible step from the scoring (saw) disk of the panel saw, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when the chip has just begun to form. High-quality and fast cutting of chipboard is carried out only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. Edgebanding is sold in coils of 200 pm, but almost always it can be bought in 1 pm or more. A typical melamine edge has a width of 19 mm and a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm (excluding adhesive thickness).

The process of processing the edge of one end of the part consists of the following steps:

  1. The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the end face being machined is on top.
  2. The edge segment is measured 2-4 cm more than the length of the machined side of the part.
  3. The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
  4. Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; if too high temperature, the edge begins to bubble, at low - it sticks badly or for a long time). It should be pressed with moderate force on the iron. Excessive pressure may cause edge displacement, insufficient pressure may cause non-glue. Indirect confirmation of good edge heating can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Special attention should be given to the ends of the edge and the places of its contact with the laminated surfaces of the part.
  5. After warming up the edge, it must be cooled. A small cloth is suitable for this operation. The edge is smoothed with a cloth, pressing lightly so that the edge does not move away when cooling. After the edge has cooled down to approx. 50°C (wait until the edge has room temperature makes no sense), you can start cutting off the excess.
  6. First remove the excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are gently bent down, the edge is broken, the fracture site is lightly sanded with an emery bar and the excess is simply torn off. It remains to work a little more with an emery bar so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or cling).
  7. To cut off the excess edge along the length, it is necessary to set the knife blade at an angle of approximately 45 ° (see photo) and draw the knife along the end of the part. The angle of inclination (fitting) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not chip). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to slightly process the edges of the end of the part with a bar with sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If local non-gluing is noticed, then problem area you need to heat it with an iron and press it again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.

Return

×
Join the koon.ru community!
In contact with:
I'm already subscribed to the koon.ru community