How to repair a barrel perforator. Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair

A rotary hammer, like any electric tool, requires careful attitude, proper operation and timely prevention. If these standards are neglected, the device may fail without exhausting its service life. In case of some malfunctions, you can repair a hammer drill yourself, but to eliminate breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the engine, you will need the help of a specialist.

All unit malfunctions can be divided into 2 groups: mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical breakdowns

If any mechanical malfunction appears in the hammer drill, then its presence can be determine by ear(noise increases, grinding noise appears).

You may also experience increased vibration or bad smell emanating from the unit body.

So, mechanical failures include the following:

• failure of the device operating mode switch;
• worn rubber bands of the striker and striker;
• failure of the impact mechanism;
• failure of the unit barrel due to wear;
• breakage of gear teeth;
• breaking chuck, causing the drill to fly out.

Electrical faults

Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill may also be accompanied by an unpleasant odor from the device body and sparking. Also you may notice that The engine heats up quickly and hums without rotating, or smoke appears from it.

TO electrical breakdowns devices can be classified as:

• the device does not turn on;
• breakage of the start button;
• brush wear;
• collector clogged;
• violation of electrical contacts;
• burnout of the stator or rotor winding of an electric motor.

Algorithm for disassembling a hammer drill

To eliminate mechanical and electrical faults(excluding breakdown electrical plug) it is impossible to do without disassembling the unit housing. The most popular brands among craftsmen, both home and professional, are Bosch rotary hammers, Makita, Interskol, Energomash. Unit design different manufacturers approximately the same, therefore the methods of disassembling the devices will be similar. But you should not completely disassemble the device, since it will be difficult to put it back together. The photo below shows what a completely disassembled hammer drill looks like.

Removing the cartridge

Disassembling the unit for troubleshooting should be carried out carefully, inspecting each removed part. To make assembly easier, it is better to photograph the disassembly process. If you do not find external defects on the device, then it is recommended to start disassembling it with the cartridge.

We disassemble the case

If disassembling the unit housing is required, you must first remove the operating mode switch.

Disassembling the electrical part of the hammer drill

To get to the electrical part of the device, if you suspect that this is where there may be a breakdown, you must perform the following steps.

If you need to disassemble a barrel perforator with a vertical electric drive, first remove the handle, and then unscrew the bolts holding the motor.

Replacing motor brushes

The main sign that it is time to change the brushes is the formation of increased sparking in the area of ​​the electric motor commutator, rapid heating of the brush holders, and a burning smell. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark can only be seen under them. Otherwise, the spark is visible throughout the entire circle of the collector.

The presence of a spark around the commutator circle with unworn brushes is a sign of bearing wear, rotor or stator insulation failure, commutator plate burnout, stator or rotor burnout.

Another sign that the stator has burned out is the presence of sparks under only one electrode. If you have a tester, then you can use it check stator and rotor: measure the resistance on the rotor and stator alternately. If it is the same on both windings, then everything is fine with the stator. If you notice clear signs of problems with the rotor or stator in your hammer drill, you will have to take the device to a service center for repair. As for the brushes, you can change them yourself.

To get to the place where the brushes are installed, you will need to disassemble the housing in which the motor is installed, or simply remove the back cover. Opening the lid, you will see brushes secured in special holders. The photo below shows what these parts look like.

Brushes that are installed on rotary hammer motors come in 3 types.

1. Graphite- they are durable, but since they are very hard, their rubbing into the collector is not ideal, which negatively affects the latter.
2. Coal– easily rub against the commutator, providing good contact, but wear out quickly.
3. Carbon-graphite– an ideal option, since they are a mixture of 2 components that complement each other.

It is very important not to wait until the engine sparks and then change the brushes. Replacement is needed after they are worn to 1/3 of the nominal value (8 mm). Even if one brush is worn less than the other, both still need to be replaced.

Pay attention to the condition of the spring in new brushes and the fastening of the contact. If the spring falls off while the engine is running, it will suffer significant damage. Also, if the spring is weak, then it will not be able to provide good contact.

Be sure to check thoroughly before changing brushes clean the rotor and stator from residual graphite or coal dust. These parts can be cleaned using technical or medical alcohol.

Next, you should secure the electrodes in the holders and rub them into the collector. To do this, put a piece sandpaper fine grain onto the collector and perform rotational movements in different directions grinding in the electrode. The grinding continues until the contact area of ​​the electrode is slightly rounded. This will ensure a better fit to the collector plates and, accordingly, better contact.

Diagram of the impact mechanism, its malfunctions and repairs

The impact mechanisms of rotary hammers differ in their design, depending on which family the devices belong to. Therefore, the repair of these mechanisms will take place according to different principles.

Barrel perforators

Rotary hammers with a vertical engine usually have an impact unit based on a crank mechanism (CSM). Below is a diagram of this type of impact mechanism.

On next photo The device is shown in section, where you can see the location of the crankshaft.

The impact mechanism of a unit with a vertical motor may have the following malfunctions. The connecting rod mechanism has a separate bearing that is mounted on the cam of the wheel with an eccentric, but sometimes it can be located at the base of the connecting rod. In some models of rotary hammers, a plain bearing (instead of a rolling bearing) may be installed at this location, which requires constant lubrication. If it is not there, or it is already old, then this unit will wear out. During repairs, you will have to completely replace the connecting rod and eccentric barrel.

Another common problem is the firing pin broke. This malfunction can be calculated if you notice that there is no longer any impact on your hammer drill. To get to the firing pin, you will need to completely disassemble the barrel of the device. It is done as follows.

In this case, the firing pin is intact. But if it is broken, then replace it with a new one. You should also pay attention to the rubber seals and seals in the barrel body. If they are worn out, they must be replaced.

Pistol type hammer drills

The design of the impact mechanism in a pistol-type unit is slightly different from the same-purpose mechanism installed in a barrel-type unit.

Its main difference is that the piston is driven not by a connecting rod, but by a swinging (“drunk”) bearing. Therefore, the most frequent breakdown of this unit is the wear of a “drunk” bearing that needs to be replaced.

The next photo shows a destroyed “drunk” bearing, which is the reason why the hammer drill stopped hammering.

The swing bearing is removed using a flat screwdriver, which you need to pick up the bracket and remove it. After this, the bearing is easily separated from the gearbox housing.

When replacing a failed bearing, you should carefully wash the gearbox, since it is in its body that fragments of a broken part may remain.

After cleaning and installing a new bearing, apply a thick layer of lubricant to this block.

Also, the reason that the device does not hit can be a broken firing pin. To get it out, you need to remove the retaining ring that is visible in the hole.

Take a small screwdriver, pick up the ring with it, and move it to the right (towards the gear).

Do the same steps on the other side of the part. Next, insert a screwdriver into the hole in the part and push through the removed internal parts of the mechanism.

After this action, you can easily get the locking ring and the housing in which the broken striker is located.

If you disassemble this case, you will see the “culprit” of the malfunction, due to which the hammer drill does not hammer.

When assembling the impact mechanism, be sure to generously apply lubricant to all parts.

Other mechanical breakdowns and their elimination

In addition to breakdowns associated with the impact mechanism, other mechanical breakdowns may also occur in the hammer drill.

Mode switch

There are times when the unit mode switch fails. Mainly this happens due to dust clogging of this node. To repair the switch, you will need to disconnect it from the body (see how to do this above) and clean it from dirt. If you find any damage to the plastic parts of the switch, it will have to be replaced.

Helical gears

The reason that the device stopped working normally, namely, stopped drilling and chiseling, may lie in worn-out teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth will be worn out on the intermediate helical gear.

This problem occurs when the tool is jammed or the clutch is malfunctioning. The breakdown is eliminated by replacing the intermediate gear and engine rotor.

The drill does not stay in the chuck

The reason that the hammer drill does not hold the drill lies in the breakage of the chuck and the wear of its constituent parts:

• deformation of the balls occurred;
• the restrictor ring is worn out;
• The retaining spring gave way.

You will need to disassemble the cartridge and replace problematic parts.

Drill stuck in hammer drill

The reasons that the drill is stuck in the chuck of the device may be the following.

1. Before installing the equipment, you did not apply lubricant to its shank. You will need to move the sealing rubber of the cartridge and inject WD-40 into the place where the tool fits.
2. Dust got under the balls. Perform the same operation as in the paragraph above.
3. If you used a regular drill inserted into an adapter in a hammer drill, then also process it liquidWD-40, wait a couple of minutes, and, lightly tapping the surface of the clamp with a hammer, loosen the equipment in different directions. Typically, after these steps, the clamping jaws open and allow the drill to be removed.
4. The tool shank came loose. You will need to first add WD-40 and try to remove the drill. If nothing works, then you need to disassemble the cartridge and knock out the equipment. You can also use tips on how to remove a tool stuck in the device from this video.

If you need a rotary hammer repair, this means, at a minimum, that you already have one. Although it is quite possible that you are still just studying, at the same time, the weak points of its design, and which components could theoretically fail in it.

Well, let's try to help you. In this article we will explore:

• Device of perforators.
• The most loaded parts and components of the tool.
• Disassembly and assembly.
• Measures to extend the life of impact drilling power tools.

Device of rotary hammers

Studying the operating principle of impact drilling tools will not only expand your technical horizons, but first of all, it will allow you to competently carry out its maintenance and, if necessary, repairs. To make it easier to understand the processes that occur during drilling hard materials (and this tool is designed to perform just such work), take the time to watch these two short videos. The first clearly shows the operation of a rotary hammer with a longitudinal engine.

The second video demonstrates the design of a rotary hammer with a transverse engine.

So, let's start with the most important thing: the tool destroys concrete, brick, stone shock wave, which occurs at the moment of very short contact of the striker with the end of the drill (through the striker). The energy of the shock wave is transmitted through a drill (impact drill) and destroys the bonds (forms microcracks) between the grains of minerals that make up the stone (concrete, brick). The spiral grooves of the rotating drill serve to remove loose particles of material from the hole.

(The conclusion follows from this: there is no need to press hard with a hammer drill on a concrete wall; it will not drill faster - you will only get tired, and the tool will break faster.)

The hammer is made of high-strength steel and moves quite freely inside the piston cylinder. The rubber O-ring seals the gap, preventing air from freely passing into the gap between the cylinder and the firing pin.

The outer race of the rolling bearing, mounted at an angle on the shaft rotated by the electric motor, performs reciprocating movements, causing the piston cylinder to move back and forth. When the cylinder moves forward (towards the drill), the hammer remains in place by inertia, the air between the hammer and the rear wall of the cylinder is compressed and pushes the hammer to meet the end of the drill.

In fact, this air serves as a damping element that prevents deformation and destruction of the hammer cylinder. In a tool with a transverse engine, the cylinder is stationary, and the vacuum and compression of the air behind the striker is created by a piston driven by a crank mechanism.

The most loaded parts and components of a hammer drill

Based on the foregoing, the impact mechanism and gearbox are in the process of long work experiences maximum loads. Part of the kinetic energy of the striker turns into thermal energy and heats the entire assembly. The sealing ring continuously rubs against the inner surface of the cylinder and, if there is a lack of lubrication, wears out, leaking everything over time. more air from the work area.

Energy compressed air becomes less and less - the impact drill no longer chisels as needed. When repairing a hammer drill yourself, sometimes it is enough to simply replace the lubricant in the gearbox, the piston cylinder and the rubber sealing ring on the hammer.

During prolonged continuous operation or during normal drilling under high load, the electric motor can easily overheat and burn out. Although the latest instrument models have the electronic unit control, including motor overload protection. If you wish, you can read about the power cord, electronics and power button in the previous article.

Disassembling and assembling a hammer drill

When trying to repair a rotary hammer with your own hands, first of all, you need to disassemble it. To do this, remove the rubber tip, the ring spring, and the casing of the drill fixing coupling. The fixing steel ball is removed. By turning the operating mode switch to its extreme position and pressing the locking button on it, the switch handle is removed.

The rear cover on the handle is removed, and the motor brushes are removed. Unscrew 4 screws (from the drill side) and remove the entire front part of the tool (gearbox housing), containing the barrel, gearbox, impact mechanism and operating mode switch.

The engine rotor is removed. Unscrew the two screws securing the stator. 4 terminals are removed from the stator contacts, then it is removed from the housing. The switch (button + reverse switch), brush holder, noise filter and power cord are removed.

If it is necessary to repair the hammer drill in terms of the impact mechanism and gearbox, unscrew 4 screws from the end of the gearbox housing, then remove the outer plastic casing. It is better to do this in a vertical position. Then in the inner case all the parts will remain in their places.

After replacing the faulty part, assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Parts that turn out to be “extra” should be wiped dry and taken to a repair shop along with the hammer drill.

Activities to extend the “life” of a rotary hammer

All activities boil down to the following:

• Please read the user manual and operating instructions for the instrument carefully.
• Strictly follow the instructions specified in the instructions.
• Regularly replace the lubricant of the gearbox and impact mechanism. Exactly replace, since there is no point in adding new lubricant to the used old one - metal dust serves as an excellent abrasive, “eating” everything in its path.
• Before work, lubricate the drill shank.
• Inspect motor brushes regularly and replace as necessary.
• Clean the outside of the tool every day after finishing work.
• Try not to work in clouds of dust - it is harmful not only for the hammer drill, but also for your lungs. Ventilate workplace by opening all the windows.
• Don’t go into something you understand absolutely nothing about - entrust the maintenance to a professional, or, if you’ve already decided to repair the rotary hammer yourself, then do it slowly, remembering well where you put it.

We wish you success!

If the warranty period for the hammer drill has expired, you will have to repair it yourself.

As a rule, actions come down to replacing faulty parts, and today we will talk about typical breakdowns, selecting components and doing repairs yourself.

How does a hammer drill work?

A hammer drill can be classified as a tool that has a device of increased complexity. However, a sequential examination of the details and principle of operation will help to thoroughly understand the nuances of the mechanism and troubleshooting.

The source of movement, as in many other construction tools, in a hammer drill is a single-phase motor with a wound rotor. We will consider it separately, but now we will take the gear mounted on the front armature shaft as the reference point. It is she who sets the rotation of all other elements of the system.

Barrel perforator structure: 1 - power cord; 2 - carbon brushes; 3 - electric motor; 4 - switch; 5 - eccentric mechanism; 6 - impact mechanism; 7 - quick-change cartridge

In a barrel hammer, the motor and drive gear are located vertically. The key difference from a pistol-type tool here is the presence of an intermediate gearbox. There is nothing tricky about its design: a flat gear from the engine rotates two others with different gear ratios. One of them transmits rotation to the main shaft, the other rotates the eccentric shaft with a connecting rod, which provides reciprocating movement of the impact mechanism.

In horizontal (pistol) type hammer drills there is no transfer gear as such; rotation is immediately transmitted to an intermediate shaft located below the axis of the main spindle. This shaft is mounted on two bearings; between them there is a “drunk bearing”, which, when rotated, oscillates and sets the firing pin piston in motion. At the protruding front end of the shaft there is a gear, through which rotation is transmitted to the barrel.

Pistol type hammer drill device: 1 - switch; 2 - electric motor; 3 - brushes; 4 - “drunk bearing”; 5 - “flying” piston; 6 - striker; 7 - quick release chuck SDS

Any rotary hammer has mode switches. In the barrel, they simply lift the gears of the transfer gearbox, disengaging them. A pistol hammer drill can use one of two control schemes. In the simplest case, one switch displaces the intermediate shaft, which, being extended as far forward as possible, engages with the cartridge gear, but at the same time the rotation transmission clutch to the swing bearing is disengaged. In the middle position, both mechanisms are included in the transmission, and in the most recessed position, only the drummer works. The outdated kinematic circuit has two switches, one of which disengages the oscillating bearing clutch, and the other moves the intermediate shaft.

Engine Troubleshooting

If the rotary hammer engine has a manufacturing defect, the latter manifests itself in the very first months of operation. Otherwise, the cause of failure is often a violation of operating techniques or extreme wear. components.

The main element of the motor part, subject to intense wear, is the graphite brushes that transmit current to the rotor windings. When the brushes are worn, their pressure weakens, causing the gap between the graphite and the armature lamellas to increase and intense sparking to occur. The sound of this malfunction cannot be confused with anything: when you turn it on, you can hear a strained hum, the collector is showered with a sheaf of sparks, and the rear part of the engine heats up intensely.

The motor windings are made of wire in varnish insulation, which, due to overheating, loses its dielectric properties, cracks and crumbles. Small short circuits between adjacent turns can be identified by the characteristic hum of the engine during operation. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to rewind the stator and armature at home, but most engine parts are standard and easy to find replacements for.

Other vulnerable parts are bearings. There are two of them on the anchor: the rear one is fixed in the electrical part housing inside the vibration-damping cap, the front one is inserted into the seat of the gearbox housing or screwed to it with a slip die. The wear of the bearings is quite easy to determine: when rotating by hand, their movement is either too free with a characteristic rustling sound, or there is wedging, play and extraneous noise. The bearings have a closed cage and are not designed for maintenance. It is much easier to replace them with new ones; just write the number on the separator cover or the end of the outer race.

Replacing the button and brushes

During the operation of a high-quality hammer drill, the button may have to be changed more than once. It is optimal if you purchase a button in advance for a specific model. If you need to remove a faulty part for a sample, sketch out a connection diagram on paper indicating color coding wires Some of the buttons have screw clamps and to unscrew them you will need a narrow slotted screwdriver. Some buttons are equipped with spring-type clamps; to release them, you need to drive an awl into the hole next to the wire entry. It is quite rare to find disposable spring clamps, the wires from which cannot be disconnected. The wires from the old button will have to be cut, stripped and tinned, and then connected to the new button in accordance with the connection diagram.

It is quite easy to change brushes in a rotary hammer; the channels for them in some models are brought out and closed with plugs for access without disassembling the tool. Otherwise, you will only have to remove the housing of the electric motor part of the tool and carefully inspect the commutator assembly. The brush seats are located inside or near the plastic posts that hold the rear bearing plug; two wires go to them. The mechanism for attaching and pressing the brushes varies from model to model.

In most cases, to remove the brushes, you only need to pull out two metal tabs with pliers, unscrew a couple of screws, or unfasten the springs of the clamps. During periodic inspection, it is recommended to remove the brushes and check for chips, and clean the landing grooves from dust and dirt. Be careful not to confuse the left brush with the right one, keep them in their original position when installing. As a rule, brushes are lapped at an individual angle, changing which will either require re-grinding or will lead to destruction of the graphite element.

When replacing worn brushes, it is only important to select right size and cross-section, and then grind in the brushes by running the engine for 2–3 minutes without load in the no-impact mode. Nowadays, almost every rotary hammer is equipped with a set of replacement brushes, but replacements can also be found from the remnants of already used ones.

How to replace bearings yourself

The hammer drill contains from five to ten radial rolling bearings different sizes and the need to replace them is only a matter of time. It is very important to periodically disassemble and evaluate the degree of wear of these components, otherwise more serious malfunctions may develop in the future.

Almost every bearing in a hammer drill is quite easy to remove; the seating dimensions for them are selected with high precision. In some cases, a retaining ring may prevent removal. If it is not there and the bearing refuses to be removed, a universal two-jaw puller is used. If a puller is not available, then the part on which the bearing is seated must be clamped in the soft jaws of a vice, and then the worn element must be knocked off by striking the inner ring through the adapter.

When seating a new bearing, direct hard blows must not be applied to it. You should use an elastic attachment, such as a trim polypropylene pipe. It must first be cut obliquely so that the impact force falls exclusively on the inner race. This way, the rolling elements will not leave microscopic dents on the grooves.

Chuck malfunctions

The SDS cartridge consists of a fitting with one or two holes in which balls are seated, usually with a diameter of 6.7 mm. The balls move freely in the holes while the plastic body of the cartridge is pulled back; in the normal position they are tightly pressed by a spring through a massive steel ring.

To disassemble the cartridge, you need to pry out the front boot with a screwdriver and remove the locking ring from the fitting. The remaining parts are simply put on the fitting and can be removed without additional manipulation, it is only important to return them to their place in the correct order.

As a rule, the main cause of chuck malfunction is ground off balls or a dented plate and pressure ring. Because of this, the equipment either does not hold at all or flies out during operation. You can get such balls in any quantity by breaking bearing number 106. Mounting holes and the splines inside the bushing have a much longer service life, but if the replacement does not give the expected result, you will only have to change the fitting assembled with the barrel.

Please note that rapid wear of the cartridge parts occurs due to loose sealing of the anthers, both the front one and the annular one on the fitting. The drill shanks should always be kept lubricated, and when drilling the ceiling, use a special dust washer.

Repair of gearbox and impact mechanism

Now we have come to the most substantive part of our instructions. Due to differences in the structure of the transmission part and the shock pulse generator in different families of rotary hammers, their maintenance and repair are carried out according to different schemes.

Barrel perforators

The drive gear of the transfer gearbox is mounted on the engine bearing, the other two have their own stops. They need to be periodically checked for jamming and play, and replaced if necessary.

The connecting rod mechanism has its own bearing, which is usually mounted on the cam of the eccentric wheel, sometimes at the base of the connecting rod itself. Occasionally, a sliding bearing is used in this place, which requires the constant presence of lubricant with a standardized viscosity index. Wear of this unit often requires replacement of the eccentric barrel and connecting rod.

The transmission of rotation is carried out by a straight or bevel gear; the constant presence of lubricant is also important in this place. The need for replacement is determined by blackening, liquefaction and the presence of shiny inclusions.

Pistol hammer drills

In rotary hammers with a horizontal rotor, problems can arise from wear or jamming of the bearings. This is the most dangerous malfunction for all hammer drill components: fragments of a broken bearing can get into the parts of the impact mechanism and damage them.

The landing of the intermediate shaft and the “drunk bearing” is often made according to an individual scheme. For complete disassembly you need to unscrew the clamping bracket of the front end of the shaft and disconnect the switch lever.

A typical failure of a horizontal gearbox is wear of the transmission gears. In the absence of a press, removing them will not be an easy task; it is much easier to break them by making a couple of cuts to 2/3 of the thickness. The new gear is pressed in after preheating to 150–200 ºС; this can be done with a hair dryer or in the oven.

Gearboxes of all types should be periodically thoroughly cleaned and replaced with lubricant. After disassembly, all parts are thoroughly washed in kerosene, getting rid of fragments of broken elements and metal shavings. After this, a special type of lubricant is applied to all moving parts.

Raster coupling

The barrel of almost all types of hammer drills has the same structure. The outer sleeve of the coupling rests on a needle bearing in the front of the gearbox housing. On outside The main gear of the rotation transmission is secured to the glass together with the safety clutch. To remove them, you need to remove the retaining ring by first compressing the spring with adjustable pliers.

Disassembling the insides of the raster coupling is also easy. They are fixed with a locking ring, which is removed through a pair of side holes with a regular screwdriver. Once the ring is removed, the parts inside can be pressed out by inserting a screwdriver into the front of the barrel.

Inside there is a “flying” impact bolt and an industrial mass - a shock force receiver. Most bolts are assembled; rubber gaskets and seal rings often wear out. It is recommended to change these elements at every service. The bolt itself and the industrial mass can be split due to fatigue during long-term use. These elements cost mere pennies and if there is the slightest trace of flaring, it is also better to replace them immediately.

It is difficult to give more specific recommendations for repairing the raster coupling and gear part: each manufacturer’s kinematic diagrams may have slight differences. However, most of the faults are clearly visible during inspection and revision. In this regard, it is recommended to save the assembly diagram from the instructions for the tool; it should also be used when searching for components that are determined serial number list of used parts.

A hammer drill is in demand not only when carrying out professional construction work, but also in everyday life, when it is necessary to drill a hole in a concrete wall. If you think that a drill can cope with any task, then you are mistaken, since this tool is designed for drilling wood and metal. Even the most expensive tools do not last forever, so in case of breakdowns, every owner can repair the hammer drill with his own hands. To do this, you do not need to take the tool to a service center so that the technician can estimate the cost of a simple repair. How to repair each hammer drill unit is discussed in detail in the material.

What is a hammer drill and how does it work?

Structurally, a rotary hammer is similar to a drill, but its main difference is that it is endowed with an enhanced impact function. The impact function is needed in order not only to drill, but also to drill holes in durable materials, such as concrete, reinforced concrete, brick, etc. The tool copes with its main purpose in the best possible way. Achieved through special mechanism, which is called shock. This impact mechanism experiences heavy loads, so the need to repair the hammer drill yourself arises depending on the frequency of its operation.

The impact mechanism is implemented through the use of a so-called “drunk bearing” in the tool’s device, which creates shocks that are transmitted to the piston. This piston, in turn, acts as an impact hammer, which hits a rod or striker connected to a working nozzle fixed in the chuck. A detailed diagram of the hammer drill device is shown in the photo below, based on which it becomes clear how the percussion system of the tool is designed.

In addition to the impact motion created by the indirect rotation of the bearing, the tool also requires rotational motion to drill holes. This option is implemented through a gear unit, presented in the form of a pair of straight gears. Rotational and impact movements are created by the rotation of the shaft of a powerful electric motor.

It is precisely due to the fact that the design of the tool uses a powerful impact mechanism, it can be used not only for drilling holes in concrete, reinforced concrete and asphalt structures, but also to perform such manipulations as chiseling, destruction, removal ceramic tiles and so on. This tool is also called destructive, but this does not make it eternal.

The time comes when the components and mechanisms of power tools break down, which requires repairs, the cost of which is service centers decent. Repairing rotary hammers is not a difficult procedure, as it might initially seem, and for its successful implementation you will need not only to know the device and design of the tool, but also the principle of operation.

Types of rotary hammers and their design differences

Before you repair a rotary hammer with your own hands, you need to understand the types of these tools. Rotary hammers are produced in two types:

If straight hammer drills are classified by purpose into household and professional, then barrel units are intended exclusively for performing complex work. They have a large reserve of power, so they are used exclusively by professionals to perform work of any complexity.

Many people do not understand how barrel units differ from direct ones, except for the location of the engines. The main difference, and also the main advantage, is that barrel models have a more advanced cooling and lubrication system, presented in the form of a container into which liquid lubricant is poured. This means that barrel appliances have a longer service life and therefore break down less often.

Although barrel perforators are more advanced, they are main drawback lies in their dimensions. Not only are they massive in size, but they also weigh 2 times more than straight units. Both pistol and barrel perforators break down over time, which leads to the need for repair work. To repair the instrument, there is no need to contact specialized service centers. After all, repairing a rotary hammer can be done with your own hands quickly and easily.

Operating principle of a rotary hammer

Let's consider the operating principle of the units in question, which will simplify the troubleshooting process. For barrel and straight units, the operating principle is the same, despite their distinctive design parameters. All rotary hammers work according to this principle:

The tool not only creates rotational movements, but also shock, due to which heavy types of work with concrete and reinforced concrete structures. Having an idea of ​​how a hammer drill works and how it works, it will not be difficult to undertake its repair, which can be done at home.

What types of faults occur on rotary hammers?

If the hammer drill does not work, then you should not immediately rush to disassemble it. There is also no need to rush to buy a new power tool. You need to act in order. To begin with, it doesn’t hurt to find out what types of faults are most often found on hammer drills, which will help simplify not only repairs, but also identifying the cause of the breakdown.

The most common cause of breakdowns is wear and tear of parts. If the parts are of high quality, then they have a long service life, and in the case of low-quality components, as on household units, you have to resort to repairing the rotary hammer with your own hands quite often. That is why it is not recommended to use household hammer drills often and for a long time, otherwise the need for repair in the near future is inevitable.

The design of the hammer drill shows that the unit converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is used to perform useful actions. The tool can be divided into two parts:

• Electrical
• Mechanical

Actually, breakdowns are also divided into electrical and mechanical. Common signs of mechanical problems with rotary hammers include:

1. When the start button is pressed, the motor sounds like it is running, but the actuator remains stationary
2. The tool chuck gets stuck working attachment- drill, chisel, spatula, crown, etc.
3. It is impossible to install the nozzle into the chuck
4. When the unit is turned on, extraneous noise occurs
5. Operation modes do not switch
6. Grease leaks

It is much easier to identify faults in the mechanical part of a hammer drill than electrical ones. This is due to the fact that the user sees signs of damage, which simplifies the repair procedure by 90%. TO frequent malfunctions The electrical parts of the rotary hammer include:

1. When you press the “Start” button there are no signs of the motor functioning
2. The sparking of the brushes increases during operation, and signs of a burning sensation also appear
3. Smoke appears when the tool is in use
4. When you press the button, the motor alternately turns on and off.

In almost all cases of malfunction of the rotary hammer, in order to repair it yourself, you will need to disassemble it. This is not difficult to do, but there is no need to rush. After all, tool inoperability can often occur due to a lack of electricity in the outlet. Therefore, it is important to start repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands according to the instructions.

Repair of the electrical part of the rotary hammer, diagnostics of breakdowns and their elimination

Most often, as practice shows, hammer drill breakdowns occur in the electrical part, so this is where diagnostics should begin. If the tool works, but at the same time cracks, hums or makes other sounds, then the breakdown must be looked for in the electrical part, so it is immediately recommended to skip the point about repairing the electrical part and move on to fixing the breakdowns in the mechanics.

Diagnostics of the electrical part depends on what specific breakdown has occurred - the device shows no signs of life or it works, but sparks, smokes or periodically turns off. So, in order to repair a hammer drill without outside help, you must follow the instructions. Let's look at the main types of breakdowns and how to fix them.

The engine does not turn on and shows no signs of life

The most common breakdown is when the tool does not turn on. The reasons may be various factors - from a lack of electricity in the outlet to a breakdown of the electric motor. But you need to start looking for the reason from smaller to larger, and not vice versa. It is not advisable to immediately disassemble the hammer drill if it does not show signs of life, since this can be facilitated by the following types of malfunctions, as described below.

There is no voltage in the network

It’s trite, but in 15% of cases these types of breakdowns occur for this reason. You are working, and suddenly the tool stops showing signs of life. Check immediately for the presence of electrical voltage in the room. Even if the lights in the room turn on, this does not mean that everything is working properly. Perhaps while drilling or using a hammer drill, you caught the wire in the wall that powers the outlet. Even during prolonged operation, the cable could overheat and knock out the “automatic” on the meter. In most cases, sockets and lighting in rooms are powered from different machines, so a sign of the presence of light in a room does not mean that everything is in order.

To make sure there is voltage in the network, you need to use a multimeter. It is better to pick up a multimeter and set it to measurement mode AC voltage over 220 V, insert the probes into the socket holes. If there is electricity in the outlet, and its indicators correspond to the norm (not lower than 190V and not higher than 250V), then we proceed to the next stage of testing.

Damage to the power cord

The electric motor of the tool receives current through a power cord, the length of which depends on the manufacturer of the hammer drill. When using a tool, you can damage not only the cable in the wall, but also the network cable. And this may not necessarily be the working attachment of the tool, but also the squeezing of the wire by a door or other objects, tools and materials.

You can identify a faulty wire in the following way - visually inspect it for defects in the form of squeezing, damage and melting. If there are no signs of defects, then it’s too early to beat the drums. The core could have become thinner, so to determine whether the network cable is 100% serviceable, you will need to ring it.

To test the network cable, you will need to disassemble the hammer drill. More precisely, it is not the entire tool that needs to be disassembled, but only its handle. After this, set the tester to the continuity mode, and touching one probe to the terminal on the plug, and the second to the wire core (connected to the button), check. A beep means the life is OK. Carry out the same procedure for the second core. If both wires are ringing, then you will need to make more serious repairs to the hammer drill yourself.

Repairing a punch button and diagnosing its malfunction

What is a button on a hammer drill (it is also called a switch) - this is part electrical diagram, which is responsible for supplying current to the electric motor, that is, for turning the tool itself on and off. If the button on the hammer drill is broken, you can try to repair it. However, experience shows that repair attempts lead craftsmen to a dead end, and the result of such attempts is the same - buying a new button. Just don’t rush to buy a button for a hammer drill, as it is not always the weak link.

If mechanically it shows no signs of failure, then the probability of its malfunction is 50%. If, when you press a button, there is a feeling that it is malfunctioning, which is manifested by such signs as sticking, jamming, failure to operate, or the need to make great efforts to press it, then only a continuity test will help confirm its failure. To do this, you will also need a multimeter, which needs to be used to test the contacts.

It is worth considering that depending on the model of rotary hammers, the start buttons may differ. Moreover, the difference is not only in design, but also in functionality. Professional models rotary hammers are equipped with start buttons without a speed controller, but with a lever for switching the direction of rotation of the chuck - reverse. Household rotary hammers, which also often replace drills, are equipped with additional speed controllers, which allows you to carry out work at the appropriate rotation speed of the chuck, for example, when you need to drill woodworking material.

Depending on the hammer drill model, the button can be disassembled and its contacts can be cleaned. However, if it jams, it is better to replace it immediately. A multimeter set to dialing mode will help you make sure that the problem with the tool not working is in the button. We turn on the dialing mode and touch both probes to the corresponding terminals of the hammer drill button. In this case, the trigger on the button must be pressed. If the corresponding sound signal is emitted when the trigger is pressed, then the button is working, and if not, then it needs to be replaced.

Below is a diagram of connecting a button on a hammer drill with reverse without a regulator. This diagram will be useful not only for testing the button, but also for those who do not remember the location of the wires when replacing the switch.

If you have disassembled the hammer drill and don’t know where to connect the test leads, then you need to find the wires that go to the power supply and the capacitor. It doesn’t matter whether the hammer drill, what brand you have broke, Bosch, Makita or others, in any case, the principle of checking is the same. To remove the wires from the switch contacts, on some models of hammer drills you will need to use a thin wire or an awl. An awl is inserted into a thin hole near the contact where the wire enters and you remove it.

If you want the new button to last much longer, it is recommended to buy the original one. The video below shows how to repair a punch button and replace it yourself.

How to repair a hammer drill when the brushes are worn out

If the graphite brushes on the hammer drill, which are designed to transmit current to the commutator connected to the armature winding, have worn out. Principle of operation electric motors consists in creating a magnetic field by the stator, which helps drive the moving part - the armature or rotor.

Over time, the graphite brushes on the hammer drill wear out, which is absolutely normal. When they wear out, the quality of contact decreases, so if strong sparking occurs, which is visible through the ventilation holes in the rotary hammer body, as well as if a burning smell and smoke are detected, it is necessary to replace the brushes. These items cannot be repaired as they are classified as consumables. If they are worn out, then the motor brushes will need to be replaced. Changing the brushes is quite simple, for which you need to remove them from the brush assembly, having first unscrewed the screws, disconnect the power wires that come from the button, and then in sequence reverse withdrawal install new ones.

The malfunction and unsuitability of brushes for further use can be determined by measuring their length of the working part. If the length of the graphite base is less than 8 mm, then the elements need to be replaced. After replacement, the hammer drill will work like new. The process of replacing brushes on an Einhell barrel hammer drill is described in the video.

Speed ​​controller malfunctions

Not all rotary hammer models have a speed controller. This device is usually located in the design of a push-button mechanism. If your tool has a chuck speed regulator that is faulty, it cannot be repaired, so it should be replaced.

A sign such as the absence of a change in the rotation speed of the cartridge will help identify a malfunction of the regulator. A malfunction of the regulator may also cause the tool to become completely inoperable.

Malfunctions of the hammer drill electric motor

The heart of any power tool is a commutator motor, which converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. If all the diagnostic and repair steps described above have been completed, but the hammer drill does not work, it means that the electric motor of the hammer drill requires repair. This is one of the most complex elements of the instrument, which requires a special approach. Failures of this unit can be divided into two parts - faults in the rotor and stator.

If the motor armature breaks, diagnostics and repair

You need to start diagnosing the rotor (armature) by checking the condition of the commutator - these are plates or lamellas, due to which current flows through the brushes. First you need to inspect the condition of these lamellas, which should not show signs of soot or blackening. If there is carbon deposits, then this may be the reason for the malfunction. It is recommended to clean carbon deposits using the finest paper sandpaper. For control cleaning, you need to take cotton wool with alcohol and thoroughly clean each plate.

After cleaning the commutator and replacing the brushes, you need to check whether the hammer drill works or not. If such a hammer drill repair does not give positive results, then you will need to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the suitability of the armature.

The causes of power tool armature failures are:

• Violation of winding insulation, which leads to an increase in resistance
• Violation of the integrity of the winding or break
• Steel core delamination

The process of checking the serviceability of the electric motor armature consists of performing the following steps:

It is almost impossible to replace the armature winding with your own hands at home, so you will need the help of specialists. Practice shows that replacing the winding is advisable only if you have an expensive hammer drill, the purchase of a new armature for which will cost a tidy sum. If the hammer drill is inexpensive, then it is easier to buy a new rotor and replace it yourself than to take it to a service center for repairs. The principle of checking the serviceability of the rotor on all power tools is the same, so a detailed description is described using the example of grinders.

Stator malfunctions on a rotary hammer: how to identify and eliminate them

The stator is the stationary part of the electric motor, which also consists of a steel base on which a copper winding is wound. The stator is a magnet that acts on the rotor, thereby causing it to move. To verify the serviceability or malfunction of the rotary hammer stator, you will also need to pick up a multimeter and carry out some simple manipulations:

1. The presence of resistance between the stator windings and the core is checked. We touch the probe to the output of the windings, and the second to the core. The absence of resistance indicates the serviceability of the device
2. Each probe must be touched in turn to the corresponding winding terminals. The resistance in each winding should be approximately the same, and with a large run-up, we can conclude that there is an insulation failure
3. A visual inspection of the stator will also allow us to make a conclusion about its suitability. If there are signs of delamination of the steel plates, it will need to be replaced. If only the winding is damaged, the stator can be repaired. However, to do this you will need to take it to a service center for rewinding.

It is also worth noting that rotary hammers are equipped with powerful electric motors with high torque, so problems with failure of the “heart” of the tool are extremely rare. If this happens, the reason for this is improper operation of the tool, for example, household hammer drills cannot be used for a long time. Another reason may be improper storage when the instrument is lying in a damp room. In any case, there are enough factors that can cause the motor to fail, so only after a specific breakdown has been identified will it be necessary to make a decision to eliminate it.

Repair of the mechanical part of the rotary hammer, diagnostics of breakdowns and their elimination

If there is a breakdown in the mechanical part of the hammer drill, you will also need to disassemble the tool to identify defects. Mechanical failures are much easier to detect, since they are audible or visible after disassembly.

In the mechanical part of the hammer drill, there are three main components that need repair:

1. Gearbox - to identify a breakdown of this unit, you will need to disassemble the tool and then inspect the mechanism. If this is a barrel perforator, then you must first drain the oil. Visually, it is possible to identify such gearbox defects as licking of gear teeth, faulty bearings, or damage to the integrity of the striker. Repairing a rotary hammer gearbox, unlike an electric motor, can be done with your own hands
2. The cartridge is another component that can fail if not properly maintained. Often cartridge failures are associated with clogging of its internal part. You can troubleshoot the chuck on a rotary hammer after disassembling this unit. If internal parts are damaged, the cartridge must be replaced
3. The mode switch is a useful option that is designed to be able to operate the tool not only for drilling, but also for drilling

All these components break sooner or later, and in order not to take the tool to a service center, it is recommended to repair the hammer drill yourself.

Gearbox repair or if the hammer drill does not work in impact hammer mode

If the hammer drill, when the impact mode is turned on, does not drill, but drills, that is, the impact function does not work, then the reasons for this may be factors such as a malfunction of the floating bearing (destruction of the inner race) and a violation of the integrity of the rod (striker). It is impossible to detect such a breakdown from afar without dismantling the plastic case, so the hammer drill (its mechanical part) is disassembled and inspected internal structure mechanism.

How to replace a worn-out bearing on a hammer drill

If the floating bearing (on direct ones) or the crankshaft (on barrel units) fails, they should be replaced. If the reason for the inoperability of the hammer drill is a rod or striker that wears out over time, then it should also be replaced. The process of dismantling a drunken bearing is quite simple. To do this, remove the fixing U-shaped bracket using a screwdriver, after which the bearing can be removed by hand.

When replacing a floating bearing, you will need to thoroughly clean all internal parts.

How to repair the striker and reassemble it

Breakage of the impact pin on rotary hammers is a common malfunction, which you can fix yourself if you know how to properly disassemble the design of the gear unit. If it is necessary to repair or replace the firing pin (also known as the firing pin), then the process of removing it from the raster tube is carried out in the following way:

As a result, we get a firing pin, which consists of some parts, including sealing collars, which are recommended to be replaced with new ones.

Often the impact bolt in the striker fails and needs to be replaced.

After replacing it, it is necessary to assemble the parts and install the mechanism in place inside the raster tube, having previously lubricated each element. The striker is secured with a locking ring, which is installed by pressing it in with a screwdriver.

How to remove and replace skew bearings and impact pins on rotary hammers is shown in detail in the video material.

In any case, if you change parts, then at the same time you need to completely replace the lubricant, cleaning the entire mechanism and the body of the mechanical part from the old work. If this is not done, then the repair will most likely have to be repeated, since the lubricant contains a lot of metal dust and fragments.

If the cartridge stops rotating, how to repair it?

Before you repair a hammer drill, you will first need to identify the cause of the breakdown. For example, if the working element or chuck does not rotate, then the cause may be a gear mechanism. The torque from the motor shaft to the intermediate shaft of the tool is not transmitted due to abrasion of the teeth on the gears, so the chuck does not rotate.

The chuck may also not rotate due to jamming of the gear unit. If part of a gear tooth breaks off, it could become trapped inside the rotating elements, resulting in jamming. If the gearbox is jammed, you will hear it. The engine will hum, but the tool will not work. Disassembling the tool and removing stuck parts will help eliminate such damage.

If the drill does not hold in the chuck and constantly falls out

If, when installing a drill or other attachments into the tool chuck, they fall out, then the reason for this is non-compliance with the operating rules of the unit. Working with a tool that does not hold the drill and other attachments is not only difficult, but also dangerous.

If the cartridge does not hold, then the reason for this is its wear or breakage. To eliminate this type of failure, you will need to disassemble the cartridge and identify the cause. The reasons may be the following factors:

• Deformation of the locking balls for rotary hammers with type SDS cartridge plus and rollers for SDS max
• Development of the restrictive ring
• Sagging of the retaining spring

By replacing the worn part, the cartridge begins to work properly again. How to disassemble a hammer drill chuck and repair it is shown using the example of a DIOLD sds max brand tool in the video below.

The cartridge does not hold in the hammer drill: causes and repairs

In addition to the fact that the chuck does not hold the attachments, there are situations when the drill flies off along with the chuck. This is also not a pleasant phenomenon, which has its own explanation. The cause of such a breakdown is wear of the housing fastening that secures the element. The cartridge body is secured by a locking ring mounted on the end of the raster sleeve.

As soon as the integrity of the locking ring is broken, the entire cartridge with all its component parts crumbles during operation - protective cover, balls, rollers, springs, etc. It is not difficult to repair a hammer drill with your own hands if the cartridge falls off. To do this, you need to place all the elements in their places, and then secure everything with a new locking ring. To install the retaining ring, you will need to use special devices - round nose pliers.

How to replace bearings on a rotary hammer and their lubrication

The hammer drill has not only a “drunk” bearing, but also ordinary ball bearings on which the electric motor armature is centered. The bearings that allow the armature shaft to rotate require regular lubrication. The skew bearing must also be lubricated, otherwise it may accelerate its wear. When installing drills and other attachments, you need to lubricate their shanks, which will extend the life of the cartridge components, which include locking balls or rollers, depending on the type of cartridge.

To dismantle bearings to replace them, you will need to use special tool, which is called a puller. Installing new bearings is done by using the appropriate size tube and hammer. When installing new devices, one factor must also be taken into account - they should not be skewed relative to the rotor shaft. How a drunken bearing changes is already known. On barrel hammer drills, instead of a dead bearing, a crankshaft can be installed, which has a longer service life compared to its counterpart on direct units.

This is interesting! If we compare the cost of barrel models with impact mechanisms - a drunk bearing and a crankshaft, then the latter are more expensive, which is due to their efficiency and reliability. However, this does not mean that models with floating bearings are not effective. They have a slightly shorter resource, but also have high impact efficiency.

How to properly disassemble the gearbox on a hammer drill and repair it

To diagnose the gearbox, as well as repair it on a hammer drill, you will first need to disassemble it. Let's look at how to do this correctly below. Initially, you need to unscrew all the screws holding plastic cover housing, and also dismantle the cartridge. After this, the gearbox and housing are moved apart in different directions until a gap appears between them. To remove the mode switch, it must first be set to “impact with drilling” mode and then removed. To do this, you need to press the switch against the body and move it slightly below the impact mode with drilling, and then pull it towards you.

Following the switch, you can remove the plastic housing cover, under which the gearbox is located, or remove the mechanism from the base of the housing. It all depends on the model of the hammer drill being repaired. After repairing the gearbox on the hammer drill, you will need to assemble it in place, having previously treated lubricants. Lubricant must be in sufficient quantity to eliminate the possibility of the mechanism operating in conditions without lubricants.

How to repair a barrel perforator

Disassembling a hammer drill does not present any difficulties, but the dismantling process differs depending on the type of tool. For example, repairing a barrel perforator begins with draining the oil from a special container, while pistol devices do not have such devices.

The process of disassembling a barrel perforator begins with the removal of the plastic cover, which is located on top. To access the electrical part, you will need to remove the plastic cover at the bottom. The principle of repairing the electrical and mechanical parts of a barrel-type hammer drill is similar to direct devices.

On barrel perforators, instead of skewed bearings, crank mechanisms are used. However, the design of such units uses sliding bearings located on the wheel cam together with the eccentric. All these mechanisms operate in liquid lubricant, the amount of which must be sufficient. If there is not enough lubricant or it has not been changed for a long time, the likelihood of failure of the crank mechanism of the hammer drill increases.

If it is working properly, as in the photo, then it is necessary to replace the seals and lubricate it. If it is damaged, then it should be completely replaced.

This is interesting! Barrel units do not have a drilling function in the design of the mechanism, as is typical for pistol devices. This means that professional barrel units are used exclusively for heavy work, like slotting and drilling. In addition, in the design of such units, only cartridges for attachments with the type of shanks are usedSDS-max.

How to properly use and care for a hammer drill so as not to have to repair it often

How long a power tool will last depends on how correctly it is used and stored. Even if it's professional tool popular brands DeWalt, Makita, Metabo, Bosch, Hitachi and others, this does not mean that they can be fully loaded. Any instrument, even the highest quality and most expensive, has its own specific resource, which largely depends on the nature of its operation and storage.

If you want to extend the service life of a newly purchased hammer drill, then from the first days you need to follow a number of the following recommendations:

1. Before using the tool, you must check its technical condition visually
2. Use the unit only for the work for which it is intended. If the purpose does not include a drilling option, then you should not try to drill a hole with the impact function in metal or wood, as you will not only fail, but the tool will also break
3. Before installing the drill and other attachments into the chuck, be sure to apply lubricant to the tail section. This will extend the service life of not only the tool, but also the attachments used.
4. After finishing work, clean the rotary hammer from dust and debris, or even better, using a compressor and a blow gun, clean the tool with compressed air
5. Do not store the tool in damp rooms, as moisture accumulates in the design of the working mechanisms, which not only destroys the metal, but can also cause short circuit when plugging in the instrument

These are the simplest rules that will help extend the life of the tool to 5-10 years, depending on the frequency of its use. In addition to electric ones, there are also battery models of rotary hammers, the repair of which is almost the same. Structurally, battery devices are similar to barrel units, only they are additionally equipped with autonomous batteries.

In general, it should be noted that if the design of the device and the principle of operation are known, then any repair of a hammer drill of different brands with your own hands will not be difficult. Difficulties only arise mainly in the electrical part, however, using the above material, any breakdowns can be easily and quickly eliminated.An adapter for attaching a drill to a hammer drill

People who have used a hammer drill at least once are well aware of how difficult it is to use it correctly and monitor its working condition. That is why systematic repair and maintenance of this device is an integral part of the operation process. Repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands is the most financially profitable option, especially since some of the damage is minor.

A hammer drill is an indispensable device in construction. However, if used incorrectly, it can quickly fail.

Such frequent malfunctions of the tool are due to the fact that it is used in very difficult conditions when greater productivity is required. Often, a hammer drill simply cannot withstand the loads that are placed on it. Even branded models are not immune from breakdowns.

As a rule, almost any tool that stops functioning over time can be repaired at home. However, not everyone has an idea of ​​how to repair this or that instrument. The hammer drill is no exception.

Some general information

When a tool fails, it often happens that the cause of the malfunction is some loose wire. Many people pay a lot of money at service centers to insert this wire into place. Mechanical damage most often can be seen visually. Upon careful inspection of a broken hammer drill, you can, for example, see a minor malfunction that led to a breakdown.

However, there are also situations when the usual “old-fashioned” method - shaking, knocking - cannot solve the problem. In this case, the question arises: contact a professional repair office or undertake the repair yourself.

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Can I repair it myself?

If at visual inspection If the hammer drill does not show any damage, then the next step is to disassemble it.

It all depends on how serious the breakdown is and whether you have certain skills to fix a broken hammer drill. If we are talking about an old tool that has been in use for a long time and is not of particular value to the user, then you can try and find problems yourself. In addition, if the breakdown is visible visually and you have an idea of ​​​​what needs to be done with the tool, then independent repair also takes place.

If the hammer drill model is more modern, purchased relatively recently, and costs a lot of money, then it is not always recommended to take on the work yourself, as you can make it even worse. If no visible problems were found during the initial inspection, then further repairs are not recommended. Only users with experience and technical skills should carry out repairs.

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Some signs of possible problems

If during operation you find any malfunctions in the operation of the hammer drill, then you need to find out the cause of the malfunctions.

Of course, when people purchase a hammer drill, they expect 100% performance from it. Especially if the purchased device is a high-quality imported product. Therefore, in order to prevent serious damage, you need to have an understanding of how the device works. Based on the operation of the tool (certain signs), you can sometimes determine the cause of the malfunction. Such things should not be neglected to prevent further damage.

1. Unpleasant smell from the device, especially burning.
2. The operation of the rotary hammer in normal mode is unstable - short circuits or short pauses in operation occur.
3. The device does not perform its intended purpose sometimes or for a certain period of time.
4. When you turn on or operate the instrument, strange sounds appear that were not present before.

In the event that one of the above or other signs was noticed unstable work hammer drill, you should immediately find out what’s wrong. Attention and care of the tool are indispensable conditions for a long service life. Therefore, the first step towards it is the ability to completely disassemble it into its component parts.

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How to disassemble a rotary hammer or drill?

In order to repair a rotary hammer, you need to know how to disassemble the device correctly and in what order.

Many may wonder what this is for. The answer is quite simple: if you disassemble the tool into its components and find that one of the parts is broken, you can purchase a new one and replace the spare part. Most may also think that it is much better and faster to take the tool to the appropriate service center, and they will fix it for you. However, first of all, you will need to spend a lot of time bringing and taking the tool, which is extremely wasteful when work is limited; In addition, this is a waste of extra money on repairs. Thus, by carrying out repairs yourself, you can save money and time on repairs.

Disassembly instructions:

1. You need to start working from the top node. First, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, and finally the spring and ball.
2. After removing the ball, you can begin to unscrew the screws that hold the body in place. Next, remove the cover on the handle (if it is available). Only after the work has been done are the starter wires disconnected.
3. It is necessary to remove the brush holder.
4. At this stage, you need to separate the gearbox and housing before a gap forms. The switch will be removed through this gap.
5. At the final stage, the hammer body is placed vertically and fixed in one position using a vice. All parts and spare parts are carefully removed from it.

Regardless of what kind of damage is present, it is strongly recommended to clean both the body and all parts from dust and dirt.

Unremoved contaminants may further interfere with stable work hammer drill.

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