After assembling and connecting the input panel with circuit breakers, installing the wiring with distribution boxes, it is time to install light switches. Correct installation These switching devices will not only rationally illuminate any area in the room, but also save energy.
Installation of any switch can be done by yourself. There are no restrictions in this regard in the legislation. However, there are “Rules for the construction of electrical installations” (PUE). Their compliance inside the apartment is not checked by supervisory authorities, but for general security it is recommended to do them.
General principles for installing switches
If you don't mount complex system pass-through switches, there are only two main connection diagrams:
- Both lines are inserted into the switch body: phase and zero. A ready-made bundle of power conductors emerges from the switching device, which is directly connected to the lighting source. That is, the installation of the switch is actually combined with the installation distribution box.
With this method, the diagram is more understandable (especially for those who will subsequently maintain or upgrade the lighting system). However, from the point of view of cable consumption and the number of wires in the line (grooves, corrugations), such an approach is irrational.
Another drawback: you have to install contact blocks or twisted wires in the housing. Therefore, to implement the scheme, larger mounting boxes (at least deep) are required.
Despite certain difficulties, many homeowners choose this particular installation scheme. Firstly, it is convenient to implement complex circuits turning on the light. Secondly, it is always possible to change the configuration without laying new lines. This is especially important when replacing the light point with a more “advanced” one.
In addition, the circuit with a direct connection to the power source (zero-phase) makes it possible to easily install lighting controllers, as well as RGB systems.
A prerequisite when creating such a diagram (it can be unique for each specific case) is to display the wiring in graphical form. Then it will be easier for the new owners of the premises to understand it. And over time, the owner himself may forget what he came up with at the time of connection.
- Remote switch. With this method, all wiring is done in distribution boxes, and only conductors are connected to the switch to open the line.
This is a standard diagram for a typical wiring installation in finished apartments. The method is not mandatory, the PUE does not prescribe any specific installation schemes. The tradition originated back in the days of the USSR, when housing was state-owned, and teams of electricians had to save on everything.
In addition to saving wiring, there is another significant advantage: any electrician with a classical education will understand the standard circuit. In all typical Soviet-era buildings, the light connection is the same.
There are also disadvantages. At a minimum, additional distribution boxes must be installed: one for each switch. This spoils the aesthetics of the walls.
A more serious problem is difficulties with modernization. For example, installing an additional light source on the same line as the main one is impossible without laying a new line. In addition, a remote keyboard player cannot simply be replaced with an intelligent light level controller. With such a scheme, it is only possible to install primitive resistor (triac) systems, which simply dim the brightness without saving electricity.
Most often, a similar scheme is used when the installation of a single-key switch is required, which does not involve further modernization.
However, both methods have the right to life. The owner chooses the scheme based on the complexity of the lighting system and calculation of electrical costs.
Safety considerations when installing switches
The first rule is that the power of the switch must exceed the design load by at least one and a half times. The contact group can withstand a certain current. If it is exceeded, the metal will burn and the resistance will increase. In addition to the blinking light, the owner can expect more serious problems. Constant sparking in the housing can lead to melting of the switch, and even to its fire.
The quality of workmanship also matters. You should not choose products from little-known brands or switches made according to specifications. The packaging must be certified in accordance with GOST R 50345–2010 (IEC 60898–1), preferably ISO-9000. Cheap counterfeits use low-quality contacts that quickly wear out even under acceptable load.
The following criteria are not mandatory, but they also affect the safety of use:
- robust housing
- reliable fixation of the keys (they should not warp or fall out when switching)
- high quality wall mounting
Let's take a closer look at the last point. Almost all owners of old apartments have seen sockets falling out of the walls and switches dangling in boxes. IN best case scenario, such “freedom of movement” could lead to the contacts closing on the metal installation box, and in the worst case, you could get an electric shock in the dark.
Steel boxes have been installed before if you have old apartment- for safety reasons, they should be replaced with plastic ones. The problem is this: on any indoor switch there are two mounting options. Either with expansion anchors or using self-tapping screws. The first option was used in metal mounting boxes. Over time, the elasticity of the anchors is lost, and the stops do not hold the switching device in place.
IN concrete walls panel houses there are already cylindrical ones seats for boxes. Sometimes unscrupulous electricians ignore the installation of mounting boxes, securing switches to spacer anchors. This is a violation of safe installation. On concrete or any other walls, first use construction mixture the mounting box is installed, then the switch is attached to it.
There are boxes for drywall and SIP panels. In any case, the body of the built-in switch is attached to the box using self-tapping screws.
The next important issue is the correct connection of the disconnecting conductor. On the one hand, in networks AC voltage 220 volts no polarity. Any electrical appliance will work regardless of which contacts are connected to zero or phase (we are talking about a single-phase household network). And if this issue is not relevant for the outlet, connecting the light switch is strictly regulated.
Important! Only the phase wire is supplied to the breaking contact (a group of contacts if you have two or three keyboard players).
Let's consider typical installation single-key switch. Two wires are supplied to the lamp socket: zero and phase. Let's say you open the neutral wire using a switch. The light will go out, but there will always be a dangerous potential of 220 volts on one of the cartridge contacts. If you touch this contact while replacing the lamp, you will receive an electric shock. And this is with the device turned off!
Therefore, the neutral wire always goes directly to the light source, and the phase wire passes through the switch contacts.
In this regard, there is a positive " by-effect» when choosing a circuit breaker installation scheme with the “zero” and “phase” inserted into the housing. Thanks to the “high competence” of electricians, it is possible to change the neutral and phase input to your home. You can change the so-called "polarity" on the input without changing the entire wiring configuration.
Ground switch
Despite the apparent absurdity, there are such models. In general, the grounding loop should not have disconnecting devices along its entire length. Therefore, the contacts of the switch with grounding do not intersect. Metal parts of the housing may be grounded: for example, the mounting substrate is often made of steel for strength. When installing internal switches in the bathroom (which is generally undesirable), or in places where moisture could potentially get on the housing, use protective grounding. If a dangerous 220 volt potential occurs on the housing and wet wall, a short circuit or current leakage will occur. The circuit breaker or RCD will trip.
Geometry of switching devices in the room
There are no strict rules for violation of which there are sanctions. You can place them as you see fit. For example, instead of installing a two-key switch, it is permissible to place two one-key switches side by side. However, there are accepted in the European Union and Russian Federation standards, the implementation of which is recommended for your own safety.
Do I need backlit switches?
This is a convenient feature; you won’t have to fumble the keys in the dark. However, there are also side effects. Regardless of how the backlight is implemented (LED with a resistor or neon lamp), a small galvanic connection occurs between the phase and neutral wires. This does not affect safety, but some types of lamps may glow slightly when off.
Connecting two or three-key switches
If you do not have a lighting brightness adjustment system, it makes sense to connect a multi-arm chandelier in a combined way. For example, a two-key switch allows you to select 3 lighting levels (on a lamp with 6 lamps):
- first key - 2 lamps
- second key - 4 lamps
- both keys - 6 lamps
The connection diagram does not depend on the method of installation of the switch (see section " General principles installation of switches"). A phase wire is supplied to the common contact, and the necessary groups of consumers are connected to the output contacts (2 lamps or 4 lamps on a chandelier).
When connected various sources light, the connection principle is the same, with the exception of the combined neutral wire. It must be separated into both light spots.
For example, using one three-key unit, you can turn on a chandelier with three levels of brightness (see description above) and a night light. In practice, switches with no more than two keys in one housing are usually used. The only exception is in the case of total space saving.
Proximity switches
For ease of use, switching devices are produced without mechanical keys. For example:
- sensory ones are triggered by a raised hand;
- acoustic ones turn on (turn off) the light by clap or voice command;
- switches with motion (presence) sensors also operate without mechanical contact.
There are also automatic switches that are triggered by a timer, or when an external command is given (phone call, SMS, or control using computer application). True, the installation of circuit breakers must provide for the possibility of forced unlocking. In case the electronics fail.
Installation of a touch switch, as well as any other with a control circuit, from the point of view electrical installation work no different from ordinary “mechanics”. Power contacts are connected according to the same principle. Unless the “remote switch” circuit from the distribution box may not work.
But the control scheme may require a qualified approach. At a minimum, the control unit requires a separate power supply. This can be a built-in module in the housing, or a remote device that needs to be discreetly mounted nearby.
Automatic switches for lighting systems
Although the installation circuit breaker It is practically not used to power light points; to save equipment, such a connection is acceptable. In this case, it is highlighted on the power panel separate group"machines" to which the lighting network. Connection is made via standard scheme: contacts open phase.
Otherwise, when you turn off the light, you may mistakenly turn off the power important node. If possible, such switches are placed in a separate panel.
The advantage of this method: the machines are designed for higher loads and immediately include protection functions. The reliability of such devices is higher in comparison with household switches. The disadvantage is that when used in a residential area, such a switch does not look aesthetically pleasing.
Bottom line
As can be seen from the description, installing home switches is not difficult. In comparison, installing a vacuum circuit breaker in production requires complex equipment, and qualified personnel. Special alloys and high-strength bolt ties are used.
And the contact groups of household electrical appliances are designed for direct connection of wires, without the use of special terminals.
Video on the topic
Before purchasing and installing a two-key switch, you first need to decide what it is for? And it is designed to control two lighting circuits from one point.
Don't confuse it with pass-through switches, which have different roles. They differ in the number of contacts. Therefore, when choosing, look first of all not at the front panel, but at reverse side switch.
two-key pass-through light switch
two-gang simple switch
Let’s say if you have 2 or more light bulbs in a chandelier, using a two-key switch you can make it so that when you press one key, only half of the lamps turn on, and when you press the second, all the rest turn on at once. 
It can also control two different lamps located at separate points from each other - for example, sconces at different ends of the room or in another room altogether. 
The two-key switch differs from its single-key counterpart not only in the number of switches, but also, most importantly, in the number of contacts. There are only 3 of them here. One common and two outgoing. Through them, the phase is separated and then returned to the junction box via separate wires or directly goes to the lamps.
Please note that for installation double switch You will need at least a three-wire wire, even if you do not have a PE protective grounding conductor in your apartment wiring. 
Installation of a two-button light switch and connecting wires
There is nothing complicated in the connection diagram and in the process of installation, installation and connection of wires to the switch contacts. First of all, the switch needs to be disassembled. To do this, remove the keys themselves. If you can’t do this manually by simply pulling them towards you, use an ordinary screwdriver, prying the keys off from the side. 
As a result, what you have in your hands is the body itself with the fastenings on the sides and the internal contact part. The main task is to supply voltage from the phase conductor to the common contact. Further, when two keys are closed, this phase will diverge into one or the other lighting circuit. 
To find the central contact, look at the marking, since it may not always be located alone and in the center. 
What to do if you don’t understand the inscriptions or they are erased and painted over? Then you need to use a contact screwdriver with a battery-powered tester with a continuity test function.
Insert into the intended common contact any metal object(nail, screw). You wrap your fingers around it and touch the other two contacts with a screwdriver.
When you press the keys one by one, that is, turn on one - check, then turn off the first and turn on the second - check, the screwdriver LED should light up each time. If this does not happen, then this is not a common contact. 
To connect the common contact, use the conductor phase coming from the junction box gray. Strip the end of the core, insert it between the contact plates and tighten the screw with a screwdriver. 
Next, connect the other two wires in the cable to the outgoing contact connectors. 
Connecting the conductors directly to the two-key switch itself is now complete. Insert the housing into mounting box and tighten the mounting screws. 
Then you tighten two spacer screws, which help the mounting fork with teeth to rest as much as possible against the walls of the box and firmly hold the switch body inside it. 
After this, you can return all the decorative frames and the keys themselves to their place. 
Installation of connections for a two-gang switch in a distribution box
The following cables can enter the junction or distribution box:
- power cable from the machine in the panel
- cable going down to the switch
- one (if you have a chandelier with two lighting circuits) or two cables (if the light points are in different places) to the outgoing lamps
To avoid confusion, follow the following order:
First of all, connect all neutral conductors. They usually of blue color. Zero does not pass through the two-key switch and goes directly from the panel to the lamp, through the connections in the distribution box.
All stripped wires can be connected using Wago quick-release terminals. 
Although everyone has to them different attitude, but specifically for lighting circuits with minimal loads, they are an ideal option. 
Next in order is protective grounding. This is a yellow-green wire. If you do not have a grounding conductor in your apartment or the lamp body is insulated and the cable is two-core, then this connection will not be in the junction box. 
It remains to connect the phase conductors. Here you need to be extremely careful. First, clamp the phase that comes from the power supply into the Vago terminal block. Then insert a wire into the same terminal that comes from the common phase contact of the two-key switch.
You should have 4 free, unconnected wires left. Two of them are the wiring that goes to the chandelier or sconce, and the other two wires are phases connected to the lower outgoing contacts of the two-key switch. 
Take two more clamps and SEPARATELY connect these conductors through them. Thus, you will connect two lighting circuits to the lamps independently of each other. 
Connection to a chandelier or lamp
In a lamp or chandelier, terminal blocks are usually used for connection. Place the wires of the cable coming from the junction box onto them according to the color marking. 
A factory-made lamp must have cores of exactly the color specified in the rules. Phase - a gray or dark-colored conductor should go to the central contact of the lamp, and zero - blue to the light bulb base itself.
The yellow-green ground connection can be attached either to the terminal or directly under the screw on the housing. 
Errors when connecting a two-key switch
The first mistake that an illiterate specialist can make is to connect not a phase to the switch, but a zero.
Remember: the switch must always break the phase conductor, and in no case the zero conductor.
In the opposite situation, the phase will constantly be on duty on the base of the chandelier. And simply replacing a light bulb can end very tragically. 
By the way, there is another nuance due to which even experienced electricians can break their heads. For example, you wanted to check directly at the contacts of a chandelier whether the phase arrives there through a switch or zero. You turn off the two-key switch, touch the contact on the chandelier with a Chinese sensitive indicator - and it lights up! Although you assembled the circuit correctly.
What can be wrong? And the reason lies in the backlight, which is increasingly included with switches. 
A small current, even when turned off, still flows through the LED, applying potential to the lamp contacts. 
By the way, this is one of the reasons why LED lamps blink when turned off. How to deal with this can be found in the article "". To avoid such a mistake, you need to use not a Chinese indicator, but a multimeter in voltage measurement mode.
The second error is when the phase supply conductor is connected not to the common contact of the switch, but to one of the outgoing ones. In this case, the circuit will not work as expected. All lights will light only if you press two keys at the same time. But if you press only the key to which the phase does not come initially, the chandelier will not light up at all. 
If you have entered new apartment, where you were not the one who connected the chandelier, and it behaves in such a strange way, that is, it does not respond as expected to the two-key switches, then the issue is most likely precisely this erroneous installation of the supply wires. Feel free to disassemble the switch and check the common contact.
If you have an illuminated switch, an indirect sign of such an incorrect connection may be the neon bulb not working properly. Why indirect? Since here everything depends on which key you start the phase on.
The third common mistake is connecting the neutral wire on the chandelier not to the common zero in the junction box, but to one of the phase wires. 
To avoid this, use and follow color coding wires, and even better, if you don’t trust the colors, before turning on the lamp, check the voltage supply using a high-quality indicator or multimeter.
Every house has switches, and more than one. We have all become accustomed to these small devices and consider them an integral part of our everyday life. It may seem that they are all designed the same and are extremely easy to install. However, this is not at all true - the devices are very diverse.
Agree, anyone home handyman It would be a good idea to find out which model is best to use and how to install the light switch so that the device works flawlessly.
The article is devoted to solving these questions. We will outline the operational features of different switches, and also provide detailed instructions for installation of open, hidden and walk-through models.
Although installing a switch may seem very simple matter, exists a large number of nuances that a novice electrician must know.
First you need to decide on the type of wiring.
Open wiring is still used in everyday life. It is especially loved by designers who create interiors in retro or loft style.
Electrical wiring – required element, present in every home.
There are two types of it:
- Open. The wires are laid on top of the wall. They can be secured with decorative rollers or covered with plastic cable ducts.
- Hidden. The wire is laid inside the wall. To do this, channels are cut into its surface into which the cable is laid. After installation, the grooves are sealed with mortar.
For each type of wiring is used different type switch. For open system choose overhead models that are placed directly on the wall. They are easily recognizable because they are very visible on the surface.
This type of switch was the first to appear and has changed little over the past decades. For closed wiring internal or built-in models are used.
Image gallery
No. 4: Switches with built-in motion sensor
Devices react to movement. The appearance of people is registered by a sensor that activates the lighting and turns it off if there is no movement. To work with a switch it is used infrared sensor, which is capable of analyzing the intensity of infrared radiation and distinguishing a person from other objects.
- Brown or white The insulation of the wire is designated as a phase conductor.
- Blue- zero core.
- Green or yellow– grounding.
Installation and further connection are carried out according to these color prompts. In addition, the manufacturer can apply special markings to the wires. All connection points are designated by the letter L and a number.
For example, on two-button switch The phase input is designated as L3. On the opposite side are the lamp connection points called L1 and L2. Each of them will need to be output to one of the lighting fixtures.
Before installation, the surface-mounted switch is disassembled, and after connecting the wires, the housing is mounted back
Surface Mount Switch Installation Procedure
Such devices are used for wiring open type and where for any reason it is impossible to make a hidden connection.
Let's look at the installation procedure using the example of a fully factory-assembled single-key switch. To connect it, you need to turn off the power supply to the apartment, and then perform the following operations sequentially.
Step 1: Disassemble the device
Let's take it slotted screwdriver, very carefully lift the device key and remove it. After this, just as carefully, trying not to damage it, remove the protective decorative cover. All we have to do is disconnect the working mechanism from the socket plate. Let's carry out this operation.
Step 2: Design the installation location
The manufacturer must make holes on the base plate for securing the device. They need to be marked on the wall. To do this, take the socket box, apply it to the surface and mark the line of the top edge with a pencil.
Using a level, we check that it is horizontal, otherwise we will not be able to install the switch evenly. After this, we again apply the plate to the wall and mark the attachment points.
Step 3: Install the socket plate
Further actions depend on the material from which the wall is made. If it is soft wood, fasten the base with galvanized screws. If the base is made of harder materials, you will have to drill holes in it.
We try to do all the work accurately so that we don’t have to do additional holes. We securely fasten the plate to the wall.
The last stage of mounting a surface-mounted switch is the installation of a protective decorative case and a key. After this, the device can be used
Step 4: Connect the wires
We determine the type of contact switching and cut and strip the wires in strict accordance with it. It is imperative that it does not subsequently melt and cause problems in the operation of the device.
We check that the wires reach the terminals as accurately as possible; it is undesirable for excess wires to remain. In accordance with the markings and color of the wires, we connect them to the required contacts.
Step 5: Assembling the device
First we need to make sure that the wires are connected correctly, for which we test them with a multimeter screwdriver or other device. Having found out that everything is assembled correctly, we take the switch mechanism and install it in place.
Then we return the protective decorative cover and last resort snap the key. We check the operation of the device.
Installation instructions for hidden switch
The design of hidden devices differs in the shape of the socket box and decorative cover. The first is made in the form of a bowl, inside of which the switch mechanism is placed. The lid has the shape of a small panel or even a frame.
Accordingly, the connection diagram for such a switch will be slightly different. Before installation, you need to purchase a socket box, which is sold separately from the switch.
How to connect the light yourself in an apartment if it is turned off by default?
It depends where they are disabled. The control panel is usually disabled when only VES electricians can access it.
Still, I would recommend paying your electricity bills and living a peaceful life.
The shelter for housing in most houses is located on a forest cell, and there is also a meter for the electricity consumed.
To connect to the phase and working zero bus, you must find the wires coming from the meter and connect them, although it is difficult to find the phase wire because 1) the meter is powered and sealed
2) Connecting past the meter is a crime
3) If you do not have the appropriate qualifications and training, you may be injured by impact electric shock and even even lose your life. From this conclusion - pay the debt for electricity, call an expert and establish communication.
So then climb on your shield and break the law, but really you will steal electricity, I absolutely do not advise you and will tell you how to do it - I won’t!
But from the situation you can avoid the other method, firstly without breaking the law, and secondly, without running the risk of a violation in the switch distribution.
They can negotiate with their neighbors and have portability in my apartment, of course, compensate the costs of their rescuers if the installation and excluded from the power supply line, after all, the transmission can be attributed to the socket and plug, insert it into the socket, submit it is fully supplied with electricity to the entire home network (apartment).
First, you can use batteries that are already charged, for example, in a nearby garage.
From these, using an adapter, you can get a standard voltage of two hundred and twenty volts.
If used gasoline generator, it will be noisy and smoky, so the generator should be placed away from the house, for example in a neighboring house.
There are also wind power plants, which are bladed generators and driven by wind power.
And finally, solar cells.
If it is disconnected for non-payment of electricity, connect it directly to the apartment.
I walked into this situation.
He told me how to leave the room with her.
He allowed him to connect to his home electrical network, while I solved the problem of paying off debt and linking.
We mutually decided how much I owed them during the electricity consumption period.
When I acquired the required length and part electric cable, output and plug and connection to a nearby network, I easily consumed electricity.
It seems illegal, but over the counter.
If you want to connect electricity to the apartment, you can, if you interrupt the power supply, you can fill the neighbor (of course, when you warned him, when you talked to him), you can pull the wire out of the driveway, as the electricians say "I'm breathing". but it is illegal, if you are caught to fly all this, connect to the input, you will get electricity and will always be in danger.
How to install a light switch: connection diagram and connection rules
Be careful when working with the current one, you don’t know how - it’s better not to interfere.
You can contact your neighbor in a big way panel house so that he doesn't know about it (or finds it in time). There are distribution boxes, KON, (on the wall, people they call "crescent") Turn on connecting wires. The work will need to be emphasized and keep in mind that your neighbor probably won't be grateful.
More questions on the topic:
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Types of Light Switches
Currently there are many various types switches.
How to connect crossover switch?
They differ in design, level of safety and performance. Types: Dimmers, Timers, Remote, Keypad, Motion Sensor Switches and Availability.
A dimmer allows you to control the power of the light. With this type of switch, you can save energy.
The timer is very convenient to use.
The light automatically turns off when the time signal is activated.
Remote controller remote control Allows you to remotely control the switch using a remote control.
The keyboard is a common switch that everyone uses and is familiar with.
Single and double keyed keys.
Switches with motion and presence sensors react to the presence of a person in the room. They shine when someone is in the room.
If you are interested in the shift sensor, then detailed information about them is on our website.
How to install the switch
First of all, turn off the switch! Use the tester to check if there is more electricity available.
To change the light switch, you must first disassemble the old switch.
To dismantle the light switch, simply remove the buttons and unscrew the screws. Remove remaining colors and other residue.
The length of the wires, starting from the wall, should be approximately 15 cm. This length is most optimal for switching the switch. If you do less it is not suitable for the job, longer and the wires may not be in the junction box.
After this, approximately 2.5 cm of insulation should be removed from the wire.
Each wire color has a different meaning.
White or brown has a phase meaning. Blue or black is nothing. Green, yellow-green or yellow means soil.
Once you find the wires, you must connect them.
With pliers that are insulated without the edge of the wires, bend them into an L shape and secure them into in the right place. Don't forget to attach the screws that secure the wires. Make sure all wires are screwed in correctly.
After this, install the switch into the wall and tighten it a little.
Adjust the position of the switch and finally tighten the screws.
There's no need to get too complicated to attach the buttons to the switch. Take the key, connect the switch and press it a little. It should be a small click. This means the key is attached.
The last thing you need to do is check if the lights are on.
Turn on the switch and press the switch. If the lamp is stuck in without interference, the light switch installation has been done correctly. The procedure is described in more detail in the article "How to connect a light switch", read the article on switches.
Watch the video: how to install the switch yourself
There are 4 options to solve this problem:
Option 1 - Insert a new socket box into the old socket box.
This is possible when the back wall of the old socket is at a depth of more than 4 cm or, if you level the wall, it will be at a depth of more than 4 cm.
Work technology:
- Buy a new socket box with fastenings (screws) for switches (sockets).
There are socket boxes for main walls or for drywall. You need for main walls, simple cylindrical. If there is no simple shape, take it with “ears”, and then cut the “ears” with a hacksaw or metal scissors.
- Turn off the power supply in the apartment (unscrew the plug or turn off the machine). But if you think it’s high time for you to be treated with electricity, then you can skip this and similar points.
- Remove the keys and switch cover (unscrew the socket cover).
You can see what the switch looks like here
- First unscrew one wire and insulate it with electrical tape.
For reliability, wrap 3-4 layers of electrical tape. Do the same with the second wire.
- Loosen the housing by unscrewing the screws.
- Bend down the ears if there are any.
- Pull out the switch (socket) housing.
- Now that you see where the wires come into your socket box, you can determine with sufficient accuracy the place where to make a hole for the wires in new box. There is one small detail here: if you had a socket box with “ears,” then you need to install it so that the holes for attaching the switch (socket) are at the top and bottom.
- Remove the screws from the socket box and place them where they can be found.
- Cut or drill a hole in the new box for the wires.
The hole can be made larger so that there is some play during installation.
- Insert the wires into the new hole, bend the wires in any convenient direction so that they do not interfere with you.
- Turn on the power supply in the apartment.
- Using a hammer drill, drill a hole in the socket boxes and in the wall.
If nothing banged and your drill didn’t get charred, congratulations, you didn’t hit the wiring.
- Hammer the dowel into the wall.
- Turn off the power supply in the apartment.
- If the socket box is recessed deeper than necessary, spread the alabaster and smear the outside of the back wall and side walls of the socket box with alabaster.
Connection diagram for pass-through switch
If you are not in a hurry, you can use finishing putty instead of alabaster.
- Route the wires into the socket box and insert the new socket box into the old one. Remove excess alabaster (putty) with a spatula.
- Screw the socket box with a screw.
- Fill the remaining gaps between the wall and the new socket box with alabaster (putty) flush with the wall.
- After the alabaster (putty) has dried, take the switch (socket) housing and screw the wires.
- Insert the switch (socket) housing.
- Tighten the housing mounting screws.
- Tighten the screws securing the housing.
- Place the cover and switch keys (screw the socket cover).
If you don't have a hammer drill, or don't want to take risks, you can simply place the box on alabaster.
Option 2 - Screw the body of the new socket (switch) to the wall.
The front panel of the Euroswitch (Eurosocket) housing is a square with four holes in the corners.
The diameter of the holes is 3-4 mm. To attach to these holes, you need to use screws with a small head, otherwise the switch (socket) cover will not fit into place.
Remove old switch(socket), insert a new one and mark with a pencil the places where you need to drill holes.
If the marks get on the alabaster, you can screw the body of the new switch (socket) to the alabaster on which the socket box was installed; to do this, you need to drill holes in the alabaster with a diameter of no more than 2 mm.
If the old socket box is plastic, you can try to screw the body of the new switch (socket) to the socket box; to do this, you need to drill holes at an angle to get into the socket box.
There are 2 drawbacks here: if there is a void between the socket box and the wall, not filled with alabaster, then the drill will pass tangentially and will not drill through the socket box; if the hole is drilled at a large angle, then the heads of the screws will stick out and the switch (socket) cover will not fall into place.
In all other cases, drill 4 holes with a diameter of 5 mm using a hammer drill, hammer in dowels, and screw the switch (socket) housing to the wall.
There is also a drawback here: the wall near the box is often not very dense and the depth of the hole may be quite large, more than 6 cm, then difficulties will arise with the selection of screws.
Option 3 - Reduce the diameter of the socket box in the places where the switch housing (socket) is attached.
I use this option most often because of its simplicity and minimum of tools and materials, especially when you go to a house to drink tea, and instead of cookies you get a dangling socket.
To do this you will need a hammer, a screwdriver, a knife, 2 wooden wedges about 3 cm long, if you cannot make wedges, you can use a wooden pencil. Briefly, the technology of work is as follows:
- Remove the old switch (socket).
- On the right and left (if the fastenings of the new socket (switch) are located on the right and left), bend the edges of the socket box from the wall using a screwdriver or an old chisel.
- Drive wedges between the socket box and the wall (pieces of pencil, first sharpen the pencil like a wedge, it is advisable to drive 2 pieces of pencil on each side).
Thus, the size of the socket box in the location where you need to mount the socket (switch) body will decrease, and when you insert the body of the new switch (socket) and tighten the fastenings, the switch will hold tightly.
Option 4 - clamp the body of the switch (socket) with the ears.
This option is only possible for metal socket boxes with ears.
Sometimes it is possible to remove the old socket or switch and put a new one in its place without breaking the ears (indicated in orange in the figure):
For a switch, such a clamp will be quite reliable, and also for the socket into which the carrier will be inserted.
To remove the old switch or socket, you need to bend the tabs slightly using a simple screwdriver, and after installing the new switch or socket, bend the tabs back with a hammer.
It often happens that the owner, after repairs, must do it himself household. The most common example is the installation of switching lamps. Many people in this situation are scared and believe that nothing can be done without an electrician. But it's actually not that difficult. In this article, we will tell you and show you how to connect switches yourself.
So there are only a few types of switches:
- Single key;
- Two keys;
- Three keys;
- sensory;
- Remote.
We talk about each of them.
THEORY.
Single Contact Switches- the easiest way is by forming appearance switch.
The switch has two contacts: lead, which serves to connect the wire to the phase and to the outgoing one, through which it contacts the lamp.
First make a hole in the wall where the end of the wire and the switch are installed.
Then the lid is inserted into it. The further they go into the wall, the better.
Two keys- essentially the same as the previous tip, but, as you may have guessed, it already has two buttons. Typically used to control lights on a chandelier. With two keys you can only control two groups. This means that one switch controls one group of lamps, the other controls another.
The light switch switch works the same as the previous switches, only the sensor sensors are included in the device.
Appearance - standard touch panel with inscriptions.
PREPARATION.
If you still decide to do the wiring yourself, you should proceed according to this plan:
- first Consider where you would like your lighting fixtures to be and what locations would be more suitable for you to control that light.
- second Make a connection diagram similar to the one below - this is necessary so that they do not get tangled in the wires.
- third Along with lights (lamps, chandeliers) you can buy everything necessary equipment in the shop.
The connection method for both types of switches is the same.
In addition to the switch itself, the light bulb and maybe a screwdriver, you don't need to run anything else. All additional brackets are usually equipped with a switch, but most often this is not the case.
Wires are usually connected in a junction box
Also, we must not forget one thing important rule: The connection of the phase conductor to the lamp must be made through a switch. this means that the phase must always be related to the offset.
This will give you additional security. If you connect a one-button switch to several lamps, they must be connected in parallel.
If you are done with your preparation, you can go directly to the link.
LINK. Single buttons.
To connect to the terminal box, a single-phase and single-core cable is required.
In addition, the cable with the lamp and the cable from the switch are connected to the terminal box. Phase wire from deci. the screen is connected to the phase wire, which goes into the switch.
The other (neutral) wire of the switch must be connected to this phase wire, which is connected to the light source (lamp, lamp). When you press the button (key) of the switch, the circuit closes, the phase from electrical panel fed into the lamp to make the light come on.
To understand this, look at the figure below.
LINK. Closing the circuit breaker
TWO KEY POINTS.
As mentioned, connecting a two-button switch isn't entirely different. For lighting devices, connect a three-core cable with a phase and a working zero. Sometimes another cable is used - a ground switch.
Just like the previous paragraph, you can see the diagram below to get an idea of the link.
LINK. Passive.
So a transition switch is a kind of switch that allows you to control the light from different places. This is especially convenient in large rooms. Transition switches can be one- or two-position.
Again, the bottom of the chart is a visual reference.
RESULTS.
Here we have captured all the main types of switches and how to connect them. We hope this information helps you take a closer look at the lighting in your home.
Lighting in an apartment is an important component of all home electrical wiring. In turn, it is difficult to imagine lighting without switches. Therefore, installing a switch is a fairly popular type of electrical installation work, which will not be difficult to learn. In this article we will take a closer look at how to connect a switch with your own hands.
Types of switches
Modern switches are classified into several types.
By design:
- single-key;
- two-key.
By installation method:
- internal;
- external.
The choice of which one to install depends on the type of electrical wiring you have and the type of fixture.
Features of connecting the switch
A switch is a switching device for closing and opening an electrical circuit by breaking a phase.
Therefore, it is the phase wire that must pass through the switch, not the neutral wire, which must pass to the installation site of the lamp directly from the junction box.
In some apartments, incorrect connections sometimes occur. This is fraught with the fact that when the light is turned off while replacing the light bulb, an electric shock may occur, since instead of a phase, zero is disconnected, and the light bulb socket is energized.
If such an incorrect connection is detected, the phase phase of the wires should be changed. To do this, you need to change the circuit in the distribution box to the correct one.
When installing this device, the question arises at what height to install it, are there any rules and standards. According to the rules for electrical installations:
- It is recommended to install switches on the wall on the side door handle at a height of up to 1 m, it is allowed to install them under the ceiling with control using a cord.
- Any switches and sockets must be located at a distance of at least 0.6 m from the doorway of the shower stall.
- Minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and elements of electrical installations to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 m.
IN Soviet time there were slightly different requirements on what height to install switches in the apartment. Standard height was at a level of 1.6 m. Therefore, in many apartments they are now located “at eye level”.
Preparation of the workplace
When performing any electrical installation work, first of all, it is necessary to turn off the power supply, check that there is no voltage, and exclude the possibility of unauthorized re-switching on the voltage. Using a voltage indicator, determine which of the wires in the junction box is phase and mark it with a marker.
Prepare the necessary tools:
- pliers;
- voltage indicator;
- screwdriver;
- construction knife;
- marker.
This type of switch is installed in apartments with internal electrical wiring, that is, all wiring is hidden in the wall.
At the location where the socket is installed there should be a recess in which a special box for the switch is installed, into which the wire is routed.
Operating procedure:
- Preparing the switch for installation. It is necessary to disassemble the switch; to do this, unscrew the screws connecting the button to the frame and remove it from the frame.
- Trim the insulation from the wires where they connect, leaving about 1 centimeter of exposed area on each.
- Insert both phase wires into the holes for the wires: the one coming from the distribution box into the inlet hole and the one coming from the switch to the installation site of the lamp into the outlet hole.
- Tighten the screws tightly to securely fix the wires, which should not move freely.
- Install the mechanism in a special box in the wall and securely fix it to avoid loosening.
- Install the previously removed frame onto the mechanism and secure it with screws.
- Install switch keys.
If we are not talking about replacement, but about installing a new switch, it becomes necessary to install a special box for the switch. This is done as follows:
- At the location where the electrical wiring switch is installed, make a niche in the wall slightly larger than the size of the box.
- Lead the phase wire through the hole in the bottom of the box. Secure the box in the niche using any plaster solution.
Connecting an external single-key switch
If the home wiring is done open method, that is, on top of the walls, then external switches are used. IN in this case a box for the switch is not used; the switch is mounted directly on the wall using self-tapping screws, and in some cases, dowels.
Operating procedure:
- Disassemble the switch. To do this, remove the keys from it and unscrew the screws securing the mechanism to the body.
- Having cut off the insulation at the ends of the wires, insert the phase wire coming from the junction box into the inlet of the mechanism, and going from the switch to the installation site of the lamp into the outlet.
- Tighten the screws to securely fix the wires.
- Attach the socket box with the mechanism to the wall and connect it to the switch body. Some models of switches come without a socket box, in which case the mechanism is mounted directly on the wall.
- Set a key.
Connecting a two-gang switch
Installation of this type of switch is used in the following cases:
- The chandelier shades are divided into sections to regulate the level of illumination, each section is connected to a separate switch button.
- The switch is connected to autonomous lamps.
If with a single-key switch everything is clear and simple, then connecting a two-key switch seems much more complicated: the terminal box is different and there are more wires. In fact, this should not cause any big difficulties, the connection algorithm is the same. The device is not much different from a single-key device.
Operating procedure:
- Disassemble the switch. The mechanism is somewhat different from the single-key mechanism. But there's nothing wrong with that: modern switches all contacts are marked. L - contact for the supply phase, outgoing contacts are indicated by downward arrows.
- Having cut off the insulation from the wires at the point of their connection, we connect the wires to the corresponding contacts of the mechanism.
- At indoor installation fix the mechanism in a special box in the wall, put on the previously removed frame. For outdoor use, mount it on the wall and install the switch housing.
- Set keys.
Connecting an illuminated switch
Who, at least once, while searching for a switch in complete darkness, did not trip over shoes and other objects lying on the floor, and, swearing, barely fumble for the treasured button on the wall? This situation is painfully familiar to everyone. Therefore, to make searching easier, an illuminated switch was created. When the light is off, the indicator lights up and indicates its location.
Principle of design and operation of an illuminated switch
Unlike a conventional one, a backlit switch is equipped with a light indication; the indicator is a neon lamp or LED connected in parallel to the contacts of the device and a current-limiting resistor that reduces the voltage in the network.
When we turn off the light, a phase break occurs in the switch contacts going to the lamp. But at the same time, the circuit to which the indicator LED is connected is not broken. The resistor lowers the incoming voltage to the minimum required to turn on the LED.
When the light is turned on, the indicator turns off. This occurs because the current follows the path of least resistance. The lamp is connected to a wire with a cross-section much larger than that of the wire going to the LED, which means the resistance is much less.
A reasonable question arises: if the indicator LED lights up, it means there is voltage, then why doesn’t the lamp in the lamp turn on? It's all about the resistor through which current passes to the LED. It lowers the voltage to a level that is not enough to turn on a light bulb in a chandelier, but enough to turn on an LED.
Connecting an illuminated switch is the same as a regular one.
It is not recommended to connect an illuminated switch together with fluorescent or LED lamps equipped with a ballast. The reason is that when the switch is off, the current flowing through the LED to the lamp charges the filter capacitor, which does not need much current to charge. The capacitor, in turn, tries to turn on the energy-saving lamp startup circuit. However, there is not enough charge on the capacitor, it discharges, and the lamp goes out again. And this can continue indefinitely.
Therefore, the backlit switch is installed only on incandescent or halogen lamps.
You should also pay attention to the fact that if the lamp is missing or burnt out, the backlight will not work. For the simple reason that an LED indicator needs both zero and phase to light up. And the zero to the indicator comes from the switched off chandelier on the ceiling. If the lamp is missing, then the power circuit is broken.
Compliance with safety regulations
Well, we’ve figured out how to install switches - one of the simplest electrical installation jobs that does not require special skills and talents. If you study everything in advance and understand what, how and why exactly this is done, then you can easily and quickly carry out this hitherto unfamiliar procedure for installing a switch.
And one of the most important moments- this is compliance with safety precautions, otherwise the current strength will test your strength. And there are not so many safety rules:
- Before starting work, stop the power supply by turning off the circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Take measures to exclude the possibility of re-applying voltage.
- All tools must be in good working order. It is necessary to check for damage and chips on the insulating parts of the instruments.