Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even the large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - no perfect roof, like no and very bad, each has strong and weak sides, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.
Piece roofing tiles are considered the most prestigious and complex; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with additives of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Coating options for metal and flexible tiles They are found most often in bathhouse coverings, so we’ll focus on them for now.
To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little brief characteristics coverings.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
Advantages
Low cost, quick installation, wide choose color solutions and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.
Flaws
Makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.
Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roofing carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.
We will describe the most complex method of installing metal tiles - with warm roof. Depending on specific use attic spaces you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Check for correct construction and dimensions rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.
How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.
Step 2. If possible, treat all wooden elements of the rafter system antiseptics complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety indicators. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.
Step 3. Laying waterproofing.
It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms with bottom side metal tiles, droplets of water can fall on the mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause premature damage. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.
Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.
The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.
This device increases efficiency natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.
Step 4.
Nail wind boards along the eaves, and wrap the waterproofing over the boards.
For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.
Lathing for metal tiles - photo
Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. Slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element roofing covering.
The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account individual characteristics roofs. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.
Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.
All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.
Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, mark this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The entire part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.
Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney
Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, in last resort the upper part is sealed.
In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Bulgarian with diamond blade a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done all around the perimeter. brick chimney. The planks are screwed with self-tapping screws countersunk heads to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.
The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which one can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.
Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.
The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.
Important. Bottom cornice strip should drop slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, during strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.
The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.
Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.
Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.
Step 7 You need to bring the edges of the waterproofing sheet over the installed cornice strip and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.
Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time, you can use wooden joists, installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.
If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.
The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.
If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, last page will also have such a bias. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.
Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.
Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.
Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.
At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.
You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.
Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.
Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.
They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.
Step 10 Installation of end strips.
Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.
If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof it is necessary to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.
How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe
| Step, No. | Description | illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors |
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| Step 2 | Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips |
|
| Step 3 | Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size |
|
| Step 4 | Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe |
|
If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.
The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and thin drill drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.
Prices for snow guards
snow guards
Video - Installation of metal tiles
Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles
Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; this coating universal use, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.
In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, the price range among different brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but based on the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All manufacturers' advertising brochures attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.
But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.
We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.
The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is a more expensive option made of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.
| Material thickness, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Distance between sheathing rafters, mm | OSB | Sheet plywood | Natural edged board |
| 300 | 9 | 9 | - |
| 600 | 12 | 12 | 20 |
| 900 | 18 | 18 | 23 |
| 1200 | 21 | 21 | 30 |
| 1500 | 27 | 27 | 37 |
The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. It is considered the most profitable to use more thin slabs, laid on a step lathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.
Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Flexible roofing structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.
Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.
The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing
Baths, as a rule, are small in size and have simple roofs; such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting the slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.
You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are easily crushed at the edges. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.
Step 3. Secure the drainage system hooks.
How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the section “Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles.” And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.
Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.
Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves overhangs. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not adhere well, use special liquid bitumen mastic.
Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. It is possible additionally underlay carpet fix with nails with wide heads, nail length within 20 mm, pitch 25÷30 cm.
Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.
One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.
Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.
Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it in difficult areas of the roof and correct incorrect dimensions of the slope.
Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.
Step 9 Setting up the starting line.
This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bathhouse. The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.
Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.
The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle has reverse side The protective film is removed, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.
Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.
There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.
Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove and insert metal decorative strips and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.
Pass-through element - fixation
Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.
Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.
If the ridge has an acute angle or the tile laying work is carried out in the cold season, then the line should be warmed up before bending the ridge tile construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.
At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.
Prices for flexible tiles
flexible tiles
Video - Installation of flexible tiles
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
Drawings and diagrams of a metal roof
Lathing
To securely fix the roofing covering, you will need to prepare a strong and reliable sheathing. It consists of wooden planks, determines the slope of the roof. For optimal precipitation removal, it is recommended to install rafters with an angle of more than 14-15 degrees. Additional jumpers must be installed between the three outer boards. This will give the gable roof structure greater strength and protect it from strong gusts of wind.
The next step is laying the vapor-waterproofing material. Izospan vapor barrier has proven itself quite well. The material allows you to really high-quality installation roofs made of metal tiles, eliminating the accumulation of moisture under the roof and the destruction of wood elements.
Before installing the counter-lattice, you need to prepare the bars and boards to be used. It will be necessary to coat the elements with an antiseptic to maximize service life. The beams are then attached directly to the rafters.
Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles
You should begin installing metal tiles after installing the brackets. They are leveled and attached to the bottom board.
Gutters are installed on the brackets, and a drip line is mounted.
The drip tray is closed with waterproofing.
1. The first sheet of metal roofing is lifted (work starts from the edge) and fixed at the top.
2. The sheet is screwed to the boards using roofing screws (along the entire length and width).
3. The second sheet is lifted, it is overlapped with the first (an overlap of 1 strip is enough). Fixed in a similar way.
4. The remaining sheets are laid, right up to the edge of the roof.
5. Work according to similar instructions is performed for the second side of the roof.
The next step is to install the ridge.
To position it evenly, it is necessary to stretch a thread between the gables.
Completion of work
In addition to information on how to install a metal roof, the contractor must remember the need to properly close the end walls of the roof. For work you will need to use OSB boards. They are lightweight and optimally suited for construction frame house. The slabs must be installed with inside- attic space.
Initially, the contractor will need to take measurements and make markings on the slab according to which it will be trimmed. First of all, the side parts of a triangular shape are prepared. After their installation, the lower and upper parts are adjusted. It is important to consider that you need to leave a hole in the attic for subsequent window installation. Once the last pieces of the slabs have been installed, the gable roof assembly is completed. For a detailed study of all the described stages, from attaching the insulating layer to closing the end walls, it is recommended to additionally view the attached photo and video tips.
DIY metal tile installation video
Metal tiles are one of the most popular among owners country houses roofing materials. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.
What tools and materials will you need?
- Screwdriver and hammer;
- Electric hacksaws and scissors;
- Long staff and marker.
An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.
You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.
From the materials you will need to prepare:
- Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
- Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
- Lathing board 25x100 mm;
- 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Mineral wool;
- Consumables.
The cross-section of lumber is maintained in mandatory. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various kinds additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.
Additional elements for metal tiles How much does a metal roofing cost?
The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:
- Type of polymer coating material;
- Difficulty in roof configuration;
- Type of insulation used;
- Roof size.
On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.
Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles
Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time, even if correct cladding waterproofing agent.
Preparatory work
The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother they will be structural elements boxes at home, the less energy you will have to spend on adjusting the rafter legs in the future. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.
Material measurements
In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
- First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
- Determine where the chimney, ventilation holes, skylights etc.
In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.
Lumber calculation
After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the required lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often it is arranged under metal tiles gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees.
The amount of timber for the rafter legs is determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.
The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.
The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:
- Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
- Add one to the result and round up.
The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.
Assembling the rafter system
The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:
- Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or on anchor bolts, poured into the upper reinforcing belt;
- Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.
Roof frame construction On large and high roofs, ridge beams are often used. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house box.
Hydro- and thermal insulation device
Sometimes a cold roof is made from metal tiles. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves its performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.
Waterproofing scheme The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.
Roof sheathing
It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of unfavorable weather factors. The sheathing is installed using a pole and a building level.
The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way, you can assemble a reliable base for metal tile sheets.
How to correctly calculate metal tiles
After assembling the sheathing, you can install the roofing sheets themselves. But of course, you must first make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:
- Calculate the area of each slope;
- Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
- Add up the results obtained.
How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys
The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before the sheets are installed. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.
Installation of cornice strips Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
- Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
- Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.
Choosing metal tiles
There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
- Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
- IN middle lane Russian roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
- Warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.
Installation of sheets
So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
- The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
- Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
- The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.
Installation of additional elements
After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First they fasten top bars endov. In this case, they mostly perform purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.
On next stage The end elements are fixed on the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.
Attic roof roof
The installation of the rafter system of the attic roof is carried out as follows:
- Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
- The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
- Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
- The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.
Some subtleties of installing metal tiles
The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
- All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.
We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney
Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:
- Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15–20 cm over the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself around the entire perimeter.
- After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.
Subtleties of installing curtain rods
The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and unnecessary repairs will have to be made. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of valleys: features
The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).
Fastening sheets to roof breaks
Installation of roof breaks As already mentioned, in the attic broken roofs metal tiles are placed with an overhang at the break. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.
Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that it extends at least 35 cm onto the upper part of the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower part. The sheathing under it should also be continuous.
Installation of snow guards
This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:
- Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
- You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
- The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.
Installation of lightning protection
Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge- a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:
- Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
- Down conductor (circular wire);
- Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.
The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.
Safety precautions
When installing metal tile sheets, observe following rules security:
- Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
- Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
- To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
- People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.
Conclusion
As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all the required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.
Despite the fact that covering a roof with metal tiles with your own hands is quite difficult, and the work requires special care, it is quite possible to complete them without outside help.
Construction of a rafter system with an insulated attic
Since the mass of a metal roof is quite large, the rafter system under it must withstand significant pressure. For rafter beams, beams with dimensions from 100x50 to 150x50mm with wood moisture content within 22% are taken.
The pitch between them is selected from 60 to 90 cm. If the system was originally built for a different roof and the pitch between the beams is higher than specified, reinforcing sheathing is placed across the beams.
Installation of roofing films, sheathing and eaves strips must be carried out with extreme caution, carefully selecting materials. The strength and durability of the roof itself depends on the correct construction of the roofing “pie”. It includes not only the rafter skeleton, but also a thermal and moisture protection system.
Vapor barrier and insulation
A vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the rafters using stainless steel staples or nails. It prevents the internal moisture of the house from reaching the loose layer of insulating material. Insulation, for example, VAL-FLAX (Teplolen), is laid on top of the vapor barrier film, between the rafters.
Waterproofing is laid on top of it, retaining water but allowing water vapor to pass through.
Features of waterproofing installation
The waterproofing is rolled out horizontally, parallel to the cornice, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. The amount of overlap is 150-200 mm. The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with wooden counter battens. Their dimensions are 25*50 mm. The planks are stitched with nails or staples. The waterproofing should not be stretched too much, otherwise it will break due to temperature changes in length. The amount of sagging of the canvas is about 10mm.
The roof waterproofing should not touch the insulation. The size of the gap between it and waterproofing membrane is 3-5 mm. This design allows moisture to flow freely down the membrane, straight into the gutter.
Sheathing, valley and cornice strip
The sheathing is laid perpendicular to the counterbattens. The outermost lath, installed along the eaves line, should have a height 10-15 mm higher than the others. It serves as a stop for the bottom step of the first row of metal tiles. The bar rests on the protrusion formed by the bottom row of the profile pattern. Thanks to this, the protruding cut of the sheet is located above the gutter.
The second lathing is installed at a distance from the height of the metal tile step profile. It should hit the bottom of the first step. For the second and subsequent battens, a strip from 25x100 to 35x100 mm is taken. The edges of the prepared sheathing are smoothed out, and the hanging ends are cut off.
Installation of cornice strips
The cornice strip is stuffed over the first batten in such a way as to protect the front board from moisture. It is fastened with galvanized nails at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The outlet of the lower edge of the waterproofing is laid loosely on the eaves strip.
Installation of the valley
Endova is metal V-profile for laying in places where there is an internal break in the connection of roof slopes. The valley protects the joints of the slopes from moisture getting under the roof and onto the insulation layer. Consists of two elements: upper and lower.
The lower one is installed before laying the metal tiles at the fracture site. It is through this element that water flows from the roof into the gutter. The upper valley is installed on top of the tiles and serves for decorative purposes. Both are fastened with self-tapping screws. When screwing the upper valley, you must make sure that the self-tapping screw does not get into the central part of the lower one. The fastening pitch is 300-500 mm.
Roof installation always starts from the bottom row. The best option- if the height of the sheet is equal to or longer than the height of the roof slope. Then the roof surface is covered in one pass, and the number of connecting seams on it is minimal.
Features of the structure of metal tile sheets
The right and left edges of the tiles have different heights profile. This is done for a better fit of the metal when overlapped. The manufacturer always indicates which edge is installed underneath and which edge is installed on top.
- Metal roof tiles are quite heavy, so the sheets are fed upward using ropes along inclined boards. At the same time, it is important not to bend them, so it is better to lift them on two ropes, with four hands, respectively.
- When installing metal tiles with your own hands, fastening is done with roofing self-tapping screws, equipped with sealing polymer gaskets. The color of the screw is matched to the color of the roof. You cannot nail metal tiles with nails - they gradually become loose, the sheet begins to vibrate and collapse in this place.
- The bottom edge of the sheet is installed with a protrusion of 50 mm. Then the moisture flows from the roof directly into the gutter and does not fall on the wall of the building.
- It is recommended to first secure the first two or three sheets to the ridge with one screw. After leveling the bottom line and fitting relative position sheets, they are thoroughly strengthened with screws along the entire length. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower part of the profile wave, and in places of overlap - along the crest.
- 6-8 attachment points are required per square meter of sheet. At the edges, along the roof eaves and at the ridge, fastening is done through a wave. Along the overlap line - under each crossed ridge of the pattern.
End strip
This strip is screwed to the end board. The latter should protrude above the roof sheathing to the height of the profile according to the drawing metal sheet. The top and side planks are attached to the end board. At the junction points, the overlap of adjacent elements should be from 7 to 10 millimeters.
The chimney bypass is made of metal to match the color of the roof tiles. Usually the outline is made of 4 elements - right, left, bottom and top. Depending on the design, it can be simple upper or lower.
In the first case, the edge is laid under the tiles. Its design includes a special groove that diverts water to the drain. The contact areas between the apron and the pipe are sealed with a special sealant with a high level of heat resistance, for example, Loctite, Henkel, Macroflex.
The top edge is laid on top of the roof tiles. The area adjacent to the chimney must also be sealed, as well as the upper part (to prevent water from entering along the tile profile). It is advisable to sew the lining apron to the chimney with metal dowels.
Mounting the ridge strip
The roof ridge strip is important element ventilation of the under-roof space. It protects metal and wooden elements from dampness and is very an important condition long term roofing services. The under-roof air, heated by the heat of the roof, naturally rises from the eaves to the ridge.
There it goes outside through technological ventilation gaps. Manufacturers of metal tiles offer various designs ridge elements and give their recommendations for their installation. The roof ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 300-400 mm along the crests of the sheet profile waves. The overlap of adjacent ridge strips is 7-10 mm.
Bottom line
Work with metal roof tiles is considered one of the most expensive. Therefore, many owners of private houses cover the roof themselves. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof will reward its owners with reliability and many years of trouble-free service.
If you do not decide to install it yourself and entrust it to a specialist, then the knowledge gained will allow you to control the process and the skills of the workers, which as a result can become a guarantee of the quality of your home in the future.
Even the cheapest metal tiles can look much better than luxury roofing materials. 90% of success lies in the quality of installation of this material, making the right choice"accessories" and bold design solutions. Now we will look at how to make the roof of your dreams and lay the tiles so that “the boss does not swear.” We present to your attention detailed instructions and analysis difficult moments.
Types of metal tiles and coatings
When obvious corrosion of the material appears, many people blame the poor quality of the metal tiles, but almost all manufacturers make them the same thickness, and the grade of steel is also the same. It's all about the coating, which can be disposable or last for years. Before scolding a supplier who sold a “low-quality” product, let’s try to figure out what to cover the roof with and what polymers are used to protect the metal.
- (PE) polyester. The material can be considered universal, it is suitable for most climate zones, can withstand very high temperatures in summer, and is not afraid of wild frosts in winter. Corrosion resistance is very high. The polyester-based mixture occupies the middle price range. Spray thickness is 25 microns.
- Matte polyester. The thickness is 35 microns, due to which metal roofing looks much more expensive and more beautiful. The matte surface imitates natural materials. The attractive texture is not corrosive (moderate resistance) and can withstand +120C. Bending of the material is allowed down to -10C. polyurethane coating . If funds allow you to purchase such building material, then it is better to give preference to it. A layer of 50 microns protects against corrosion by almost 100%, suppresses 25 dB of sound, and absorbs hail and raindrops. It will be very cozy and quiet under such metal tiles. Withstands from +150 degrees to -90C. Ultraviolet radiation does not affect the polymer in any way, so it would be beneficial to cover the roof with metal tiles with a polyurethane coating if you need to do it once and for a long time.
- Pastizol. A fairly “old” generation of materials that were developed 30 years ago for coating metal used in a highly corrosive environment. The polymer has excellent appearance, has been in use for at least 20 years and can create strong competition with all modern analogues. It is inexpensive, easy to use, and does not fade over time.
- Granite. Yes, there can also be stones on the roof and this is considered an excellent coating. Essentially polyurethane and fine granite chips mix 50/50, which gives many advantages: enormous resistance to mechanical damage, protection from ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes. Perhaps it best metal tiles, but there is only one drawback - high price.
- Aluminum-zinc coating. The composition of this surface is as old as Yorkshire bridges. 44% zinc, 54% aluminum and 2% silicon. Tile roofing has a coating of only 20 microns, the average service life is 25 years. The cost is below average.
Before buying building materials and installing a metal tile roof, you should inquire about the type of polymer coating of stainless steel, because you can overpay money for unnecessary properties. If you have a residential second floor or want to make an attic comfortable for living, then pay attention to the thickness and softness of the coating.
IMPORTANT: polyurethane, which is included in many suspensions, muffles sound and absorbs shocks; the living space will be much quieter. But if the second floor is non-residential, it would be better to save money and install regular metal tiles, the price of which is 30-40% less.
Advantages and disadvantages of a metal roof
Not everything is a roof that is on top of a building. Each coating has its own pros and cons, but before you cover the roof, you need to get to know your “enemy” better. Let's start with the significant advantages of metal tiles:
- Economical. And just before you start throwing tomatoes at me, installing metal roofing will cost much less than most other roofing options. You save on lathing, building materials, workers, and on purchasing the roofing material itself. And if you also consider that the useful life of a roof is about 50 years, then the savings are obvious.
- Light weight metal tiles per 1 m 2. It is much lighter than most building materials. Depending on the type of coating, 1 m2 of metal tiles weighs from 3.6 kg to 5.2 kg. Polyurethane polymers lighten the structure, and the zinc coating adds almost 1 kg per square meter. You can only find out exactly how much metal tiles weigh from the supplier, since the thickness of the metal also varies (0.3-1.2 mm)
- Corrosion resistance. It is very difficult to wait until the roof becomes covered with rust, since this occurs no less than 25 years after the start of operation. It is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, moisture, or temperature changes, unlike roofing felt, for example, which is unpredictable and insidious.
- Fire safety. The metal does not burn and does not emit volatile substances when heated and that says it all. If you are looking for a heat-resistant material, tiles are ideal for this and comply with all SNiPs, which ECO roofing made from reeds, straw and other miracle materials of the “Middle Ages” cannot boast of.
- Solid look. Many people believe metal roofs aesthetic and neat, but in taste and color... The objective advantage is the ability to create complex geometric designs and perform a variety of installations of metal tiles with your own hands, which is limited only by your imagination.
There are also disadvantages to roofing made from metal tiles; there is no way around them. Of course, for many they may not seem significant at all, but they still exist and can ruin your mood after purchasing and installing metal tiles on your home. Let's take a closer look at these fly in the ointment in a big cauldron of honey:
- Very noisy during hail or rain. Of course, you can move to the first floor or put earplugs in your ears during bad weather, but this technique is not suitable for everyone. Whatever the coating of the metal tile, the manufacturer, the thickness of the metal, nothing will help. The noise will be quite loud.
- There is a lot of waste when installing complex metal roofs. Despite the low cost of the material, it is a pity to throw it away when it is necessary to create complex geometric shapes.
- Slippery. Working and moving on the roof is difficult and quite dangerous; it’s better not to try your luck again.
Many builders are attracted by the simple installation of metal roofing, because constructing such structures is quite easy, quick and interesting. It is practical, popular and cost-effective, regardless of the type of structure being built. Next, we will look at the process of making a roof from metal tiles with our own hands and key points, which will help you do everything right the first time and not spend extra money.
Installation of a metal roof and calculation of materials
Do you like to draw? No? But you have to. This work can be done with a pen and one sheet of paper; it will take about 30 minutes to calculate the fastening of the metal tiles and all consumables. It is worth considering that the working area of the sheets will be 8-12% less than the total area, so you must immediately add this amount of material to the calculations.
First you need to measure the length of the roof slope, from the very bottom to the ridge, you also need to take into account the canopy (10-15 centimeters). Everything is simple here, we write down the number of required whole sheets of metal tiles and subtract small overlaps (10 centimeters is enough). The number of rows is also easy to calculate. We divide the length of the roof by the width of the working area of the sheet, that is, subtract 15 centimeters of overlap from it. If your roof is not too large and you can get by with 1 sheet of metal tile on the slope, then the overlap is not taken into account, of course.
Calculate exact amount sheets of metal tiles will now not be difficult. Size building material may vary, from 60 cm to 10-12 meters, so it is better to select the most suitable length to avoid large residues. Don’t forget to add to the total cost and list all the “accessories”, which include the ridge, a water collector around the entire perimeter, valleys and snow holders.
In addition, you will need: wooden blocks 50x50 mm, boards 50x100 mm, board 50x100 mm for the perimeter of the cornice, short and long screws, vapor barrier film, waterproofing and insulation of your choice (let's look at the example of mineral wool).
Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier under metal tiles
Before laying the tiles, everything must be carefully insulated from condensation and moisture. This is necessary to prevent corrosion of the insulating material and maintain high temperatures in the attic without the appearance of moisture. However, we can agree that it’s as simple as that and that’s all. Let's look at the step-by-step isolation instructions.
STEP 1: installation of waterproofing. We climb onto the outer part of the roof and lower the rolls along the rafters from the ridge to the eaves protective material. The overlap should be left at least 150 mm; it is better not to use staples, but to use special adhesive tape (if you don’t have the money for this, you can take regular double-sided tape - it will do). The sagging at the cornice is 2-3 centimeters. 
STEP 2: insert insulation. A short instruction on how to fit in something that can’t be squeezed in: cut out rectangular pieces of mineral wool (ecowool or other miracle material that you think of installing) 5 centimeters wider than the distance between the rafters. We squeeze the rectangle a little, with a slight movement of the hand (legs, head or other parts of the body) we push it into place. Due to its elasticity, it is clamped between the rafters and hangs there. Similarly, we fix the roof insulation between all the rafters. 
STEP 3: We attach the steam insulator. Whichever roofing covering was not installed, including metal tiles, you will definitely need instructions for installing steam insulation. We go from the inside of the roof and arm ourselves with a stapler. You can buy a special construction staple thrower or confiscate your child's educational paper stapler - it will be enough. Nail it to the rafter with a bracket every 20 centimeters. This layer is required and without it the insulation will pick up moisture., having lost its insulating properties. 
You should end up with a kind of pie, where there will be 2 layers (vapor barrier and waterproofing) and a filling in the form of insulation inside. It would be best to carry out this work in the absence of wind, since it may slightly disrupt your plans and you will have to redo the work several times. The film is not very strong and a strong gust of wind can simply tear it off the rafters.
Please note that most waterproofing and vapor barriers are made directional, that is, they cannot be laid on any side. They should let air out and keep moisture out. If installed incorrectly, all the water will accumulate on the insulation and all your efforts will be as useful as a laptop for Indians.
Lathing and counter-lattice for metal tiles
The roofing material requires a “foundation” on which it will be installed - wooden sheathing. It consists of 50x50 mm wooden blocks, which are nailed vertically to the rafters (forming an air cushion between the metal tiles and the waterproofing) and 30x100 mm boards, which are nailed every 60 centimeters across the rafters. The first board from the eaves will be slightly thicker - 50x100 mm, since the load on it is much greater. The ridge is covered with 2 boards on both sides without a gap. 
The instructions for installing metal tiles involve installing a cornice strip, which protects against strong gusts of wind and prevents moisture from entering the sheathing. It is better to nail it with galvanized nails in a staggered pattern (1 stroke - 30 cm), since this part is subject to severe corrosion. Soak the board in a protective suspension. This work must be done after installing the drain in order to insert the edge of the board into it and not interfere with the gutter supports. 
Around “problem areas” such as corners, valleys, joints, chimneys, the sheathing is nailed with a solid board, and at the butt corners of the slope it is screwed into the bottom valley board. The overlap there is at least 100 mm (it is better to do up to 150 mm so that the board does not break off under load). In fact, it's simple - everything is intuitive. When building a roof, “grooves” are created into which the boards will fit perfectly; the main thing is to work with a level when installing the rafters so that they are perfectly level or to properly level the sheathing. 
Installation of sheathing under metal tiles is the most difficult and critical stage of work, but screwing the roofing material is very simple work. Even a not very experienced migrant worker can do it after studying the manual.
Another useful tip: before attaching the roofing material, you need to lay an insulating material, preferably self-adhesive (based on polyurethane, for example), on the board of the lower valley. It will reduce the “wind noise” under the roof and increase the overall absorption of sound that will come from rain or hail.
Installing metal tiles with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
Now let's move on to the pleasant and creative process - screwing the metal tiles to the sheathing. This can be done from any side of the roof, as convenient for you. Consider a simple step by step installation metal tiles, which are used on most construction sites.
STEP 1: remove the protective film from the metal tile, take the first sheet and align it exactly along the edge of the cornice, making an overlap of 5-6 centimeters. We fix it with a screw (screw it directly into the metal) at the level of a thick board that runs along our perimeter. We check the evenness of the sheet using a tape measure, which we use to measure the distance from the edge of the metal tile to the eaves strip. 
STEP 2: We lay the second sheet higher, make an overlap of at least 4-5 centimeters and screw it along the top point of the wave at the level of the sheathing. 2 screws on different sides of the sheet will be enough. When several sheets are already “tacked”, you need to check the evenness of their laying and screw everything to the sheathing. 
STEP 3: we lay the remaining “blocks” of 2-3 or more sheets (depending on the length of the metal tile itself), leave a 50-60 mm overlap and screw everything into the joint to the sheathing. Do not forget to level the first sheet - it is the most important and determines the evenness of the entire structure. It is better to do measurements of subsequent sheets and trimming with a grinder on the ground - it’s more convenient. The last and first row is also aligned along the pediment. 
STEP 4: we install end strips that protect from rain and wind; they must be screwed with long screws to the rafters of the house and the sheathing that runs along the edge. The end strip is not always wooden. When installing a metal tile roof with your own hands, you don’t have to skimp on the little things and use PVC strips or other plastic compounds that do not corrode and better protect the wood from moisture. 
Installing a flat ridge. The joint of the metal tile sheets at the top does not need to be very level, since the ridge will hide everything. It is screwed on each side to the last strip of secondary sheathing. It is recommended to install a polyurethane gasket between the metal and the roof so that the structure is securely fixed, does not make unnecessary sounds and does not increase air circulation. 
Chimney finishing. Here you need to use L-shaped elements. In a brick smoker, using a grinder, a 2-3 centimeter cut is cut, into which 1 edge of the fastening goes, and the other edge simply goes down onto the metal tile. The laying and installation of tiles can be considered complete; all that remains is to screw in all the fittings and snow catchers. There is nothing complicated about fastening; the main thing is to align everything well and rely not only on your keen eye, but also on the readings of the building level.
And by tradition, we offer installation of metal tiles on video, because no matter how many times you read, it will be much clearer to watch: