Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by home craftsmen. And any master has encountered problems when drilling, especially if the work is delicate. And delicate work most often occurs: the drill is missing half a millimeter - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom is askew, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tiles have just been laid. Grace and “oakiness” are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill correctly with a drill.
Safety
Electrical safety available in wide sale The power tool belongs to class II: double working insulation, use without additional grounding is permissible, i.e. Such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-European socket through an adapter. At “iron bazaars” you can find class I (“industrial”) tools with a grounding terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its chuck is most often used for a drill with a conical shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary impact drilling. Therefore, do not buy such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.
Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the body is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with a Euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool with an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat crosswise contacts. It is suitable for home use, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.
For protection against foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, instead corresponding figure the letter X is placed. So, the drill is IP32 - can be used outdoors in good weather; IPХ2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzling rain, and IP68 can work during the Samum in the Sahara and under water.
Important: the first digit 2 means that the device is finger-resistant; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection of IP22. But this in no way means that if you grab a drill chuck with the same degree of protection with your hand while working, it will stop on its own. The IP standard is not fool proof.
Cartridge
The regular three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. When using a rotary impact drill, it quickly becomes loose, and the chuck itself loses accuracy and may completely fail: the threaded race of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard, brittle materials, the three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation-only mode.
IN keyless chuck(it can be recognized by its corrugated plastic clip) the drill is clamped with a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during impact-rotary drilling, but is less accurate for fine work of little use. Powerful drills are equipped with a two-sleeve collet chuck - clamping and loosening are carried out by different rings.
The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of shaped grooves, see figure, absolutely securely fixes the working element according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; replacing the drill is done with just two light movements.
Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalworking and carpentry: the centering accuracy of the drill is insufficient. An adapter from a three-jaw chuck to an SDS makes no sense: it will become loose from vibration, just like a regular drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the conventional working tool fit.
Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools weighing up to 5 kg; SDS Max – for heavy two-handed.
Power and speed
When buying a rotary impact drill for general work, you don’t need to skimp on power. Power reserve is needed to create the required torque at low speeds. External characteristics a commutator electric motor with sequential excitation used in drills is close to ideal, but the low-power motor at low speeds overheats from the high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front slip handle.
The maximum speed of the drill is also important. Diamond tool literally “eaten up” before our eyes at a rotation speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools require at least 1500 rpm. If you come across a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool for work general purpose unsuitable.
For precision work For metal, a simple, low-power drill with only rotation is best - 120-200 W. A stand that turns the drill into a tabletop will be very useful. drilling machine. And if you also fork out for Rotary table to the bed, then it will be possible to mill small parts with a dental bur.
Mains or battery?
Cordless drill home handyman needed in two cases:
- If you work on the side, this is your more or less regular extra income.
- If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.
In any case, an expensive professional drill with lithium battery and its charging time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals who work full shifts day after day. A regular alkaline battery, charged in 4-8 hours, will suit you. In extreme cases, you can “pump it up” to a hole or two in half an hour.
Section summary
All of the above can be reduced to the following recommendations:
- Regular construction works, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and hammer drill at 350 W and above.
- Occasional household work – rotary impact drill from 250 W.
- For precision drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably with a frame.
Drill
The following types of drill bits are most commonly used:
- Spiral - are made of tool steel, coated with carbide, with a carbide insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
- Spade bits can be used to drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill holes large diameter. They are made either in one piece or in the form of a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. This set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
- Crowns (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with or without a centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but are only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
- A circular drill (centre drill, ballerina drill) is used to drill large-diameter holes in thin, durable but fragile materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative rock. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be changed smoothly. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
- Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy coated with diamond. They can be used to drill glass, polished decorative stone, and glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.
Drill sharpening 
Drill sharpening
Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist drills and feathers. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap sets can be made from ordinary carbon steel; their feathers can be straightened with a regular needle file.
Spiral drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a device - a wedge with an angle of 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly turned when sharpening. The best sharpening is obtained using a fine (“velvet”) hand-held emery wheel, see fig. below.
For different materials need different angles drill sharpening A. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Precise angles and methods for sharpening drills different types for different materials can be found in material processing reference guides.
About hard alloys
Carbide alloys for drills are made based on boron, tungsten or zirconium compounds. The cheapest are boron-based, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will wear out quickly. Such drills are marked “by stone”. Drill with them decorative materials You can’t - the edges of the hole will chip. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in their durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They cost more accordingly.
What and how to drill
Whenever drilling, the hole locations must be marked. For metal this is done with a center punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone - either with a special diamond center punch, or with half a pobedit roller from an old glass cutter, clamped into a homemade holder. Marking (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in fragile hard materials must be done manually. Now let's move directly to drilling technology.
Steel, brass, bronze, massive duralumin
Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 – with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.
We mean maximum speed at idle. During the drilling process, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. Selecting the feed when manual drilling by weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, crumbs will form, the hole will end up with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.
If the feed is excessive, so-called drain chips will form - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. To develop the feeding skill faster, you need to drill even small holes with both hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and fragile. For steels 42 and 44 (regular structural steels), chips with a bluish tarnish color are acceptable.
Bronze and some types of duralumin require special attention: they do not produce flush chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to monitor bronze by its tarnish: its appearance is undesirable. The duralumin needs to be cooled with liquid machine oil: if it boils, you need to press it lightly.
You can set the idle speed by clicking the regulator. If the drill is at 2800 rpm, and the regulator gives 14 clicks from edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then make the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill a given material.
Note: When drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the formation of correct chips.
Sheet metal
For the same materials, but sheet materials, so that drilling does not lead to bending of the sheet, two methods can be recommended:
- When drilling from the bed, give more revolutions, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pad. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be secured with nails driven into the cushion at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
- When drilling by weight, as soon as you feel increased resistance to feed (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill a hole on the other side, pressing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.
But a radical way to get in thin sheet metal wide hole with an ordinary drill - first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then in one or three steps expand it to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill cleanly. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one double thickness metal The maximum permissible diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with heavily smoothed corners.
Aluminum is a soft metal, very viscous and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it may melt on the cutting edge, the hole will spread out, its edges will bulge and the drill will bite. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, the speed should be one and a half times less than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool little by little, without interference.
The drill bit for aluminum must be sharp, factory sharpened or sharpened on a special machine. Hand-sharpened drills are not suitable for aluminum.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill bit sharpened for metal. Such drills are very fragile, so the tool must be fed easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in a stand.
Wood, MDF and plastic
Industrial wood is drilled with a twist drill or a feather drill, sharpened to look like wood. Dense woods (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a core bit and a centering drill. Drill revolutions are 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for feathers and crowns.
Drilling plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood are produced either with a special wood drill (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid feather drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is drilled in advance; it can be drilled with a regular drill. Turnovers are the same as for industrial wood; The feed is easy, without pressure.
Concrete and reinforced concrete
Drilling of concrete is carried out using special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or liner, using a rotary impact method at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. Best option– SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip gets chipped. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly advisable to determine the location of the reinforcement using a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.
Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is done with a crown for stone (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is applied tightly, without distortion, to the wall, pressed, and with sharp, quick pressure, turn on the drill.
There is a special tool and technology for through-drilling walls, but this is the subject of a separate description.
Ceramics and stone
How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative; chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. They drill into already laid tiles, so cracking is also unacceptable. By smooth surface the drill can easily slip off, which is again unacceptable. Drilling - only by rotation.
Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:
- A hole with a diameter larger than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the compass drill.
- A centering hole is drilled using a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
- Using a concrete finishing drill, the hole is finally drilled.
Porcelain tiles are drilled in the same way as ceramic tile. Drill speed is maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; serving – light, minimal. It is advisable to provide continuous cooling working area water. You cannot cool the tiles with oil - when heated, it can ruin the decorative surface.
Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and steady hands: misalignment is unacceptable, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a cetrobur with both hands, placing the front handle on the drill. The revolutions are higher, but not more than 900, because with large ones, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and chip off its edges.
Video: how to drill tiles
Solid stone and glass
Glass, granite and other brecciated (grainy) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill bit. This is a job for an ace and virtuoso of drilling. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, tried on, aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, immediately turned on “full” and slowly, smoothly inserted the drill into the material. Pressure and distortion are unacceptable.
If the piece being processed can be laid on a table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed using the ancient Egyptian method: with a copper tube and quartz (not sea shell) sand:
- A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made from plasticine or putty around the drilling site.
- Fine powder is poured into the formed hole. quartz sand and moisten it to a liquid paste.
- A flat, thin-walled copper tube is inserted into the drill chuck.
- The drill is set to MINIMUM speed.
- Drill with a series of short, light pecks with the lightest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the tips of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw the material.
Note: You won’t get the exact diameter, but you will get a matte spot around the hole.
Video: examples of glass drilling at home
Holes in pipes
If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vice, then it is better to drill with a precision drill from the bed. If you have to drill by weight, then after punching the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill bridge. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.
Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and turn on the drill, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then first drill a centering hole 2-4 mm in diameter. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling while hanging, the drill, if it splashes, can damage the wall or furniture.
Square holes
Is it possible to drill square holes? Yes, you can if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come complete with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a rod and clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the unnoticed area of the hole will be only 2%.
However, you can only drill square holes with a drill in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and enormous lateral forces arise on the tool. Square holes in metal are drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled this way at all: lateral forces will tear the part into pieces.
Bottom line
Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling a smooth, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.
When improving an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TV, baseboards and much more.
In order to hang a photograph or a small painting, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this task. It is best to use dowels - nails from fastening brackets that secure computer network cables to walls. These cloves are of sufficient length, thick and hardened. It turns out to score even in concrete wall.
Performing the operation of drilling holes in walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present any greater difficulty if you know how to drill correctly. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.
How to drill a wall
A better tool than a hammer drill for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely does anyone have the luxury of having such an expensive tool on their household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.
Drill selection
At the time of buying electric drill Please refer to the following specifications below.
The power of the drill must be at least 600 W. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the ability to smoothly adjust them from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch for the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The best chuck is a quick-release chuck; you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and constantly searching for a lost key. The diameter of drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.
The presence of a switchable hammer drilling function. Of course, when this function is enabled, the drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and here’s why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Karatekas, with a strong blow, easily break a brick in two with the edge of their palm. When drilling with a drill without a hammer function, there is simply pressure from the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on to the material, so drilling is slow and the drill becomes very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. Upon impact, the drill punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, falling with an impact into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of particles of the material. Something similar to chiseling is happening.
Drill selection
Walls made of wood, plasterboard, and foam concrete can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a regular drill, usually Pobeda. Less commonly, artificial diamond.
The pobedite insert is clearly visible at the end of the top drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.
Using drills with pobedite surfacing, you can drill a hole no more than 10-15 cm deep. For drilling to greater depths, for example, to drill through a wall, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. Even the cutting edges of the drill are made not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.
Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS+ or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a regular jaw chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are stamped on its shank.
If you need to drill through a thick wall, for example half a meter, then the passage is carried out in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, drill the wall with a 20 cm long drill to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and finish drilling with a 50 cm long drill. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. To perform this type of work, it is better to rent a real hammer drill.
How to drill a wall
Before you start drilling a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no holes in the plaster under the intended place. electric wires or other cables. Otherwise, you can damage the electrical wiring and get under voltage yourself.
How to avoid getting caught in a wire
It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch or socket. Usually, wires extend upward from them in a vertical direction to distribution box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often hidden wiring laid diagonally. Here's an example of this. When I made repairs and moved the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.
But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. The wire will also go from the chandelier to the nearest box.
Typically the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check, use a blunt instrument, such as a screwdriver, to dig into the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press too hard on the drill and after deepening every couple of millimeters, visually check whether the wire is caught.
There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of wires in the wall. Here are some of them that are not expensive, made in China, but nevertheless work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal fittings in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper electrical wiring at a recessing depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires can only be detected in metal detector mode.
Wiring detection is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent beep. In metal detector mode, when detected, the diode lights up constantly and the sound produced is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Krohn-type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and suspended ceilings, since the load-bearing structures are attached with self-tapping screws near the ceiling, exactly where electricians usually lay the wiring.
Drilling holes in reinforced concrete
Brick walls can be drilled with a Pobedit drill without much difficulty. We decided on the location, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that you come across burnt bricks in the wall, which drills more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the impact mode turned on, pressing harder on the drill handle, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.
I bring to your attention a great video where you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with a hammer drill function and a drill with pobeditovy surfacing. A hole was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.
As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, When drilling for a long time, the drill heats up to high temperature And If you touch it, you can get a severe burn. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill in water.
Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is made of 600 or 500 grade cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only grade 400 cement is used. In houses old building sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They are very difficult to drill and take a long time.
In the production of concrete blocks and wall panels for strength, they install iron reinforcement welded together mutually perpendicularly, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and add granite crushed stone. A pobedite drill is not able to overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, while drilling, the drill suddenly stops going deeper, it means it has encountered reinforcement or granite. The reinforcement can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you don’t have a simple drill on hand and it is permissible to move the location of the hole, then you can move it diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble when struck with a drill or narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each blow, to prevent the tool from jamming in the concrete and to make the work go faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter turn. After removing the obstacle, drilling continues with a Pobedit drill. For a drill with a hammer drill, granite stones are not an obstacle and can be drilled successfully.
Drilling tiles
To drill into tiles with a carbide-tipped drill not specifically designed for tiles, it is necessary to first remove the glaze after marking the drilling point.
This is done very simply, with a core, and if it is absent, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with a sharp end to chip off the glaze in the place of the future hole with very light blows and then drill like a brick wall at low speeds.
Drilling large diameter holes in the wall
With equipment ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide it in the wall electric meter, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.
At home, this problem can be solved using a carbide drill. The outline of the future hole is drawn on the wall with a pencil. WITH outside From the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, a sample of the wall material is made using a chisel and hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will be neater, but you will have to drill more holes.
If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to achieve through drilling, then you can drill in two stages.
If it is possible to drill a wall on both sides, then first drill as described above on one side of the wall, then in the geometric center of the resulting sample, a hole is drilled in the wall to reach out, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, markings are made on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.
If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then you will have to do drilling and sampling in two stages. From the marking line on the outside, another line is drawn at a distance sufficient so that after the first sampling in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deeper into the made niche without touching the edges of the wall.
To reduce the labor intensity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.
Drilling depth limiter
To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tube) of the required length on the drill bit until it stops in the chuck.
If you don’t have a suitable cambric on hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape, winding several turns of it. This simple device will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.
Jig for drilling holes without dust
Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place and if there is more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or, even worse, it is impossible to hang it, since the installed dowels do not coincide with the mounting ones loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling due to vibration it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is simple technology, allowing you to drill two or more holes strictly in specified locations.
Precise hole drilling
It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or double-sided tape to the entire area of the side of the conductor that is attached to the wall. At the same time, the adhesion of the jig to the wall surface increases many times over, and during drilling, the specified accuracy of positioning of the jig is ensured. The hole will appear exactly at the marking location.
Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, you have to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the jig, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.
To top it off, attach a plate to the end of the base of the conductor at a right angle. Thanks to this modification, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent contamination of the wallpaper and reduce the scattering of dust in all directions.
The proposed device is also indispensable when drilling holes for attaching skirting boards. Drill a hole in the jig at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, place the shelf on the floor and all the holes will be exactly at the required height from the floor, which will guarantee a tight fit of the plinth to the floor surface.
Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a jig.
To make a conductor for precision drilling A board, sheet of plywood or metal will do. After marking in the sheet, it is drilled with an ordinary drill required amount holes. Consider the case for fastening the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill that will be used to drill the wall, the second with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall using the jig for the precision drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.
The jig is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw into the hammered dowel and leveled using a water level so that the drilled holes are on the same horizontal plane.
Thanks to the use of a simple jig, which can be made in a few minutes from any available material, the holes were created exactly at a given distance from each other.
Using the same technology, you can drill a whole series of holes on greater distance from each other. In this case, first the outer holes are drilled using the technology described above, the jig is screwed with two outer self-tapping screws, and then all other holes are drilled.
The proposed options for conductors are convenient when renovating an apartment, when dirt is common everywhere.
However, when the renovation is completed and cleaned up, drilling becomes stressful. I don’t want to stain carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust.
Drilling without dust
When drilling walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This happens because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and throws it out heated in the chuck area. This measure makes it possible to make a drill of greater power with small dimensions and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present simple design allowing you to drill without dust.
The drilling jig for dust-free drilling is a modified previous version, but the shelf is replaced by a part cut off from plastic bottle. A piece of 9-11 ply plywood measuring 80×150 mm is cut out, and a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. From the side on which it will be pasted sandpaper, a trapezoidal sample is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake during drilling.
A part is cut off from a plastic bottle so that the remaining part can be attached to the conductor. The width of the base of the conductor is selected based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. Insulating tape is wound onto the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until a size equal to internal diameter suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the required configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and secure them with a stationery stapler. You can close them with tape. There is no need for tightness here. Gaps of a few millimeters will not matter, since the suction power of even a low-power vacuum cleaner is excessive.
Then using furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the conductor, on the side where the sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. We make a hole in the bottle for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, since the edges forming the hole will become thicker and last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt a hole by heating it gas stove until red with a nail.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, and do test drilling.
The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle or brick flour on the drilling surface!
Good mood to everyone! Today we will consider the issue of drilling precise holes drill in solid metal. The topic may seem quite simple, but still, there are certain secrets of skill, having mastered which you will drill holes with particular ease.
Drilling holes in metal using a drill and special tools.
At home, it is often necessary to drill holes in metal to install fasteners and other mechanical parts. Although using a conventional hand-held electric drill in some cases it is possible to drill holes quite accurately, however, to obtain High Quality For work, a vertical drilling machine should be used. To change the rotation speed of the machine, you need to move the drive belt from one pulley to another.
Drill selection.
Regardless of the drilling device used, the size and shape drilled hole determined by the drill used. A cylindrical hole (sometimes not entirely correct geometrically) is usually drilled with a twist drill. This drill is a pointed metal cylinder with a spiral channel running along the axis of the drill. In soft metals such as aluminum and copper, these drills often produce holes with jagged edges. To drill such metals, you can use a drill for sheet material, which is made in the form of a cone and has one side cutting edge.
Holes in metal should always be drilled using high-speed drills. Made from the hardest steels, these drill bits range in diameter from 0.5mm to 25mm or more.
Marking of drills and design features.
One of the options for marking drills (according to sizes) is to indicate their diameter in millimeters. For drilling recesses big size can be installed instead of a drill hole saw- a cylinder with teeth that can cut holes up to 150 mm in size and up to two-thirds the height of the saw itself. You can also use a special drill, which differs from the usual one by the presence of an elongated L-shaped cutting edge. Special drills are available for drilling conical or cylindrical recesses for the heads of fasteners, such as bolts, rivets or screws.
To give the drilled hole precise geometric dimensions, provided that the diameter of this hole does not exceed 35 mm, it is necessary to process it with a reamer. This processing is done manually or on a machine. Hand reamers are straight drills with four or more cutting edges that gradually machine the inside of the hole as they rotate. Machine reamers are installed in vertical drilling machines.
Precise drilling of metal on a machine.
When drilling precise holes, you should always use a special cutting fluid that reduces friction and cools the drill during operation. In addition, it is necessary to use clamps and a vice for precise, stationary installation of the workpiece. When marking the drilling site, you should use a center punch, with which a small depression is made at the drilling site.
When drilling on a machine, to determine the position of the hole, you need to draw two short lines, intersecting at right angles in the center of the hole. To prevent the drill from slipping, it is necessary to make a small depression in the found center using a center punch and a hammer.
Determination of tool rotation parameters.
Determine the required rotation speed and set the machine to rotate at this speed. To set the rotation speed, you need to open the casing cover and loosen the belt tension by unscrewing the handle that secures the motor in the casing. To change the speed, the engine moves forward and the belt is moved from one level of pulleys to another in accordance with the necessary change in speeds, which are determined from the nameplate or operating instructions. The lowest speed is achieved when the belt is placed in its lowest position - between the smallest motor pulley and the largest spindle pulley. On the contrary, the highest speed is achieved when the belt is installed in the uppermost pulleys. Next, you need to make sure that the belt is tensioned horizontally between the pulleys, move the engine to its original position and tighten the knob securing the engine to the casing.
Setting up tools and fixtures.
Before drilling begins, the drill is installed in the chuck and tightened. Don't forget to adjust the vertical movement of the spindle by lowering the drill along the workpiece and moving the stopper to the desired point on the graduated stopper movement scale. The spindle rises to a height sufficient to install the workpiece under the drill and is fixed in this position. The workpiece is moved so that the intended hole is exactly under the drill. The workpiece is clamped securely before drilling begins.
Subsequently, it is necessary to lower the spindle sleeve lock and turn on the drilling machine. Squeeze a drop of coolant and lubricant onto the recess, lower the drill with the lever and start drilling. Even pressure should be applied during operation. A brush is used to remove shavings and sawdust. The appearance of smoke from the drilled hole indicates the need to check the color of the metal shavings. They should be white or straw yellow. Blue color means overheating. In this case, you need to add cutting fluid or reduce the rotation speed. After finishing drilling, you must slowly release the feed handle and turn off the machine.
Drilling precise holes in metal with a hand drill.
If there is no need to maintain the precision that a vertical drilling machine provides, you can use a powerful hand-held electric drill. However, if this drill is not multi-speed, then when drilling holes in metal, it should be turned on for short periods of time by briefly pressing the switch in succession.
The key to success in most cases depends on how you hold the drill. Before drilling begins, the workpiece is clamped in a vice or pressed firmly to the table. Then, without turning on the drill, the end of the drill is installed on the point marked with the center punch. To increase the starting point, you can manually rotate the drill chuck several times while pressing on the drill bit. After applying the cutting fluid, the voltage will turn on. The drill body is held motionless by the left hand, right hand the tool itself is pressed when the drill starts to increase speed. If possible, place a vertical square next to the drill to make it easier to install the drill in a vertical position. This will make it easier to drill precise holes.
If the drill cannot go deep into the surface of the metal workpiece, a second, larger depression is made using a center punch at the desired point.
Safety precautions when working with a hand drill.
When working with drills, one should not neglect the rules. To prevent the risk of accidents when drilling metal products The following instructions must be strictly adhered to:
- It is prohibited to drill a product that is held only by hands;
- It is forbidden to work with dissolute long hair or wearing loose clothing that is not fastened, as well as wearing gloves, since there is a danger of the glove material being caught by the drill;
- Safety glasses should not be neglected;
- Before turning on the machine, make sure that the drill in the chuck is tightened tightly and the key is removed.
Perhaps we'll end here. Drilling precise holes in metal is useful not only at home but also when performing industrial tasks.
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How to drill high-speed steel grade P6M5 or HSS according to the European designation? For example, we made a knife from a blade from a mechanical saw, and we need to drill holes in it with a diameter of 5-6 mm for pins to install and secure the handle pads.
The same operation may be needed to drill a hacksaw blade for metal from 1Х6ВФ steel, from which you can make some useful products. A piece of blade from a mechanical saw made of 9HF steel is suitable not only for making knives, but, for example, also non-standard keychains.
Necessary tools and samples
All reviewed and other brands high speed steels are drilled using spear-shaped (feather) drills for tiles, having various designs. For example, shanks are made round or hexagonal, which is not of fundamental importance for the main work - drilling.
They are freely sold in almost all construction stores or outlets selling all kinds of tools. What is very important, drills of this type and appointments are attractive because they are inexpensive.
Also, for drilling high-speed steels, you will need cutters of various shapes and designs. With their help, the accuracy, cleanliness, shape and required diameter of the drilled hole are ensured.
We have to drill the following samples:
- a piece from a frame saw made of 9HF steel.
- blade from a hacksaw for metal made of steel grade 1Х6ВФ.
- Mechanical saw blade made of HSS steel.
The process of drilling high-speed steel samples
Let's start with a hacksaw blade for metal. As a tool, we will choose a used tile drill bit, which has already been sharpened more than once on a diamond wheel. That is, for a long time nothing remained of the factory sharpening, which would have undoubtedly given the best result.We insert our tool into the chuck of an electric drill and start drilling without the use of lubrication or cooling. We select low speed as the operating mode. We notice that the process is slow, but with some patience, after some time a conical depression appears on the blade, a kind of countersink caused by the shape of our drill.
We drill until a tubercle appears on the other side.
After this, we turn the canvas over and continue the process, focusing on the tubercle.
Alternately drilling from one side to the other, we achieve an increase in the diameter of the hole until we get the desired size.
The next sample is a blade from a frame saw. We select the drilling location at the base of the teeth, where the material has the greatest hardness.
The process also does not proceed very quickly, but steadily. This can be seen by the gradually increasing volume of chips around the drill.
We notice that the work goes faster if you slightly rock the tool from side to side. This helps remove chips from the cutting area.
We continue drilling on one side until the tip of the tool passes the entire thickness of the metal and forms a small tubercle on the other side of our sample.
Since the thickness of the metal is greater than that of a metal blade, we will have to replace the drill halfway through the process or resharpen the one we are using. After this, we turn the sample over and continue drilling.
Literally after a few turns of the drill, a through hole. Continuing the process, we achieve the required diameter for the mating part.
Make the hole using a suitable cutter.
In our case, it is most convenient to use a conical-shaped tool. It is easier and faster to achieve the required hole size and give it a cylindrical shape.
After all, after using a feather drill with its large taper, the hole turns out to be different in diameter: closer to the surface of the sample it is larger, and in the center it is smaller.
Let's start drilling the blade from a mechanical saw.
To do this, we also choose a zone closer to the teeth, since in this place the metal is harder due to special hardening.
The process seems to be faster compared to the previous two samples. This can be seen from the intensity of chip formation and the production of a through hole without drilling from the reverse side.
Bring the hole to required diameter and giving it a cylindrical shape, as in previous cases, one of the cutters will help. Using linseed oil for drilling (it is used when working with stainless steel and contains oleic acid), it will be possible to increase productivity, sharpen the tool less often and improve the cleanliness of processing.
Practice shows that the process of drilling high-speed steels will become more productive if you first use drills of a smaller diameter, and then a larger one.
Some craftsmen use screws or screws made in Germany and used for concrete work as tools for drilling high-speed steels. Their distinguishing feature– on the head there is the letter “H” (Hardened - hardened).
Drilling metal
When drilling a hole in metal with a hand drill, the drill usually jams. A wooden plug, previously driven into the hole, will help correct this defect.
Drilling a hole in a thin sheet of metal will not be difficult if you hold it in a vice along with a wooden block. It is most inconvenient to drill thin metal sheets. Every now and then they try to break out and injure the driller.
Cut yourself a “shovel” from steel with a comfortable handle. Fasten the workpiece with clamps to the upper surface of the “shovel”.
Anyone who has tried it knows that a large-diameter drill will “break” the hole and it will be uneven. Place a piece of rubber or a rag folded in several layers under the drill and start working. The hole will be straight.
To cut blind holes in a part, you can use a piece of a round file clamped into the chuck of an electric drill. To avoid damaging the back wall of the part, the working end of the file fragment should be slightly rounded on an emery wheel.
Drilling a radial hole in a metal rod or tube is very difficult. Especially if you are trying to do it with a hand drill. You can make this task easier in this way: drill a hole of the appropriate diameter in a wooden block, insert a tube there and drill calmly, without fear that the drill will slip.
If a blind (non-through) hole in a metal part is filled with paraffin, then the thread cut on it will be clean.
Drilling wood
Drill into the board big hole at home, the matter is very difficult, because the shank of a large drill cannot be clamped in the chuck hand drill. A hole with a diameter of 15 to 40 mm can be made using simple device, consisting of metal rod and a piece of cloth of the required size using a hacksaw. Its cutting edges are sharpened at an angle of 45 degrees, inserted into a longitudinal slot previously made in the rod, and soldered or fixed with a wedge, which is driven into the slot.
An experienced person will never begin to drill into a round log before he has secured it securely. He knows that without taking precautions, he most likely will not be able to drill a hole exactly along the intended path, and besides, he may lose the drill.
Place a 1.5-2 cm long spring between the handle and the “runner” of a hand drill for wood, and even with sudden movements of the “runner”, a finger that accidentally ends up between it and the handle will not get pinched.
When drilling a large diameter hole (20-30 mm) in wood, you may not have the required drill or perk. In this case, first drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then insert a flat steel washer (preferably a new one) into the rotor chuck and go through the hole again. This method is also applicable for countersinking holes.
If in wooden parts If you need to drill a lot of holes at right angles, then take a cube of hard wood and drill a reference hole in it with great precision. And then use this conductor in your work. The cube placed on the drill will also serve as a drilling depth limiter.
Capsule cap from lemonade or beer is quite good substitute drills, when it is necessary to drill compass needles in the wood holder, you will reduce the risk of breaking it when fibrous material or plaster a hole with a diameter of about 20 mm. Pierce the plug, place it on the bolt, secure with two lock nuts, and drill.
It is difficult to make a hole in laminated plywood, it splits. Take a steel tube of the required diameter, sharpen the cutting edge inside with a round file and cut teeth on it with a triangular file. Inside the tube, insert a wooden cylinder with a nail without a head. During operation, the end of the nail protruding 1-2 mm serves as a guide.
To prevent them from spinning when drilling small parts made of sheet material, we recommend placing sandpaper under them.
If you attach a drill with a diameter of 0.8-1.1 mm, you will drill small-diameter holes in wood, textolite, and plastic.
There are quite a few devices for cutting large diameter holes in sheet material - plastic, plywood, chipboard, etc. You can use the design: a bracket is bent from a strip of steel 2-3 mm thick, its ends are ground in, and a hole is drilled in the center, then the bracket is put on a bolt with a pre-sawed off head. To operate, the device is clamped in the chuck of an electric drill.
You can cut a large hole in sheet material in a simple way: clamp a nail in a vice (it will serve as an axis) and a piece of a drill (this will serve as a cutter). The circle is cut by rotating the sheet around its axis.
A circle of any diameter from plywood can be cut accurately, accurately and quickly using a wooden strip and two pointed nails driven into the strip.
The pencil sharpener bit (sold separately) can be successfully used for boring holes in wood and plastic. It is fixed in the chuck of an electric drill and the edges of the hole are processed.
A potato peeler in the hands of a craftsman is an almost ready-made tool for processing round holes in plywood. You just need to sharpen its cutting edge.
When drilling a board or plywood, remove the burrs at the same time, for which you string several rings of thick felt onto the drill.
Drilling concrete
It is easier and faster to drill concrete with a carbide drill, sharpened asymmetrically. However, we still recommend marking and starting holes with a drill with a regular sharpening.
When drilling a hole in the ceiling, crumbs of concrete and plaster fly in all directions, get into your eyes, and into your collar. Make a funnel out of spring wire and wrap it around it plastic film and put it on the drill.
If you drill into a concrete or brick wall made in a shoe polish tin, the dust will collect in it rather than fly into the room.
If you don’t have a Pobedit drill for drilling concrete, you can replace it with a punch from the “New Resident’s Dream” set. Inserted into a drill chuck, it takes concrete well.
When drilling a hole in concrete or brick, the drill will last longer if it is periodically moistened with water. It is convenient to use an elastic plastic bottle as a water reservoir.
When drilling holes in a wall, it is very difficult to hold the drill in a strictly horizontal position. Attach to her
Apply a small level or a vial replacing it with electrical tape to the case, and the matter will be greatly simplified.
If you need to drill a through hole in the wall, but the drill is not long enough, what should you do? Try to perform this operation in two steps: on one side and on the other side of the wall. After drilling a hole at the designated point, place a magnet in it. Then use a compass to locate the drilling point on the opposite side of the wall. The compass needle will not be mistaken.