How to install sewerage in an apartment without the help of a specialist? Sewerage diagram in an apartment - wiring arrangement using examples Drain pipes in an apartment.

As a rule, they have fallen into disrepair sewer pipes cause a lot of trouble for apartment owners and their neighbors. Few people will like constant leaks and bad smell in a residential area! Of course, you can turn to utility companies for help, but in this case you will need to pay a decent amount of money to the specialists. The topic of this article is the installation of sewerage in an ordinary city apartment. How to calculate required amount materials? How to prepare the instrument? How to dismantle old sewer and install new pipes? Our material is about all this.

If you feel the strength and desire to do sewer repairs yourself, we suggest using our instructions. In the end, installing a sewer system with your own hands is not such a labor-intensive process, and every owner who knows how to handle a tool is able to master this job.

So, first you need to prepare the necessary material and tools.

Installation of a sewerage system: calculation of materials

What material will you need? First you need to calculate how many water intake points there are in your apartment. Let's take for example standard scheme sewer connections: toilet, bathroom sink, bathtub, kitchen sink and washing machine. You may have additional plumbing fixtures, such as a bidet or dishwasher, in which case these will also need to be included in the design.

Now you need to draw a diagram of the future sewerage system on paper, specifying the distances between the devices. This will make it much easier to count all the corners, tees, pipes and cuffs (see Fig. 1).

Installation of a sewerage system has its own subtleties that must be taken into account at the stage of purchasing materials. So, the following points are important to us:

• pipe diameter (for the toilet you need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, and for other appliances - pipes with a diameter of 50 mm);
• diameter of siphons in the bathroom, sink, etc. (corrugation on siphons can have a diameter of 50 mm, 40 mm, 32 mm; corrugation on a washing machine with a diameter of 20-25 mm);
• the need to lift the sewer pipe to drain from washing machine 500 mm from the floor.

Thus, you need to put on each siphon rubber cuff, for example 50/40, 50/32, 50/25. It is better to purchase corrugation for the toilet, this will simplify the task. For connecting PVC pipe and old cast iron pipe you will need a transition cuff with a diameter of 126/110 mm. Finally, it is advisable to purchase silicone sealant, which will greatly simplify the installation of the sewer system.

We recommend purchasing sewer pipes and components from the same manufacturer. Products from different brands may not have the same joint diameters or colors, which creates some inconvenience during installation and operation.

Also, pay attention to the rigidity of the pipes. High-quality sewer pipes should not bend or deform.

Tool for sewer installation

Let's move on to selecting the tools needed for sewer installation. You will need:

• hammer drill or impact drill
• grinder (to install a new sewer, you can get by with a hacksaw, but it is rarely possible to dismantle an old cast-iron sewer without the help of a grinder)
• small chisel
• various small tools (screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, adjustable wrenches, etc.)

To work with silicone sealant will fit optimally mounting gun. However, it is not at all necessary to buy it for a one-time job. The sealant can be squeezed out using a hammer by inserting its handle into the tube.

Dismantling of old sewerage

Having prepared the materials and tools, we begin to dismantle the old sewer pipes.

1. Turn off the water supply in the apartment.
2. Disconnect the water supply hose from cistern. To do this, you will need an adjustable wrench or a 22/24 open-end wrench.
3. Remove the toilet. Unscrew the mounting bolts that secure the toilet to the floor.
4. Remove from the bathroom all plumbing devices that may interfere with you: sink, washing machine, bidet.
5. Now you can break down the old sewer. Pipes that are located away from the riser can simply be broken with a hammer. Cast iron is a rather brittle metal and breaks easily.
6. Remove sewer pipes that are dangerously close to the riser. Particular care must be taken here. As a rule, a tee is cut into the riser, from which the sewerage system is routed throughout the apartment. It is critically important not to damage the bell (Fig. 2) of this same tee. To dismantle sewer pipes near the socket without consequences, you need to use a grinder. Cut off unnecessary pipes with a grinder at a distance of 5-10 cm from the socket.

Now you only need to remove a small piece of pipe from the socket. Sometimes, if you rock it a little, it easily falls out on its own. If this does not happen, then you need to be patient.

Using a grinder, make cuts on the section of pipe that remains in the tee. The cuts must be made along the pipe right up to the socket, along the entire circumference of the pipe in increments of about 20 mm.

Take a chisel and insert it into the cut. Start tapping the chisel slowly with the hammer. There is a good chance that the pipe will burst all the way inside the socket. If this does not happen, and all the incised areas have already broken off, then you need to find weakness in the pipe. Look from the end of the pipe and you will notice that it has worn unevenly: in one place the wall is thicker, and in another it is much thinner. You need to set the chisel and chop the pipe lengthwise in the thinnest place. The pipe will crack in any case, and when this happens, you can easily remove its remains from the socket.

Now all you have to do is thoroughly clean the bell from the old cap and mortar. The socket must be smooth, otherwise the cuff will not fit into it.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation

1. Insert a rubber cuff with a diameter of 126/100 mm into the socket.
2. Coat the joint with silicone sealant.
3. Proceed to connecting the pipes.

As a rule, the first point of water intake is the toilet. Therefore, here you need to use a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

In general, PVC pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, not 100 mm, but everyone is accustomed to a diameter of 100 mm, so that is what is indicated here. After installing the tee on the toilet, many people immediately insert into it a transition to a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. Do not do this. It is better to make a small insert after the tee of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, at least 100-150 mm long, and then switch to a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. If possible, it is better not to use corners and tees at 90 degrees. It is better to put 2 angles of 45 degrees. It is advisable to give a slope to the drain of at least five degrees. It is better to fasten sewer pipes near each joint. The following pipes are assembled: the children's designer- simply inserted into one another.

Each pipe has a rubber gasket that ensures the tightness of the structure. Before connecting two pipes to each other, I recommend lubricating the joint with silicone sealant. Firstly, it will be more reliable, and secondly, it will be easier to connect the pipes to each other. It is important that there are no fractures at the joints, otherwise there may be a leak. Cuffs are inserted under all corrugations from siphons required diameter. If you have a distance of 50 cm between points, this does not mean that you can buy one pipe 2 m long and cut it into four parts. You will need four 0.5 m pipes.

Installation of sewerage requires accuracy and minimal technical skills. If you are interested in this topic, we recommend that you pay attention to our material.

During long-term operation of the sewerage system, residents of high-rise buildings begin to think about replacing it. Because it is impossible to restore its functioning due to emergency local repairs. It's not so much about quality starting materials, but with the operational process. Sewer functionality is affected by daily waste discharged into the system, sudden changes in temperature and chemical composition waters that lead to disgusting sewer smell, blockages and leaks. In addition, due to mechanical impact from neighboring repair work sewer risers are at risk of movement and depressurization. Replacing the sewer system in your apartment with your own hands can be an acceptable solution to this problem.

Before changing the sewer system in an apartment, you need to decide on the material of its main elements, which are presented:

1. Ceramics, products from which are characterized by high cost, which leads to their infrequent use. However, the difference between this raw material is its resistance to aggressive environments.
2. Polymers. The replacement of pipes with polymer materials can be explained by their surface smoothness, which prevents the formation of contamination and overgrowth of pipes. Such products can be polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. Usage polypropylene products are considered the most optimal when arranging sewerage in an apartment due to their resistance to elevated temperatures, durability and ease of installation. Polyvinyl chloride raw materials are characterized by strength and ultraviolet resistance. But, during its combustion or heating, harmful substances are released. Such products are weak to aggressive environments. However, their use in sewage systems is quite common.
3. Metal, namely steel and cast iron. Steel is known for its low cost, strength and durability high temperatures. Before using more expensive cast iron, it is necessary to take into account its susceptibility to corrosion, installation complexity and the need for special tools. However, such products are durable and last a long time.

It is necessary to decide on the connection of sewer fittings:

• Rubber couplings suitable for cast iron pipes;
• Due to the socket method (for plastic products). Its implementation is possible by putting the expanded part on another, smaller, socket. Sealing of connections is achieved by using rubber seal or rings.

How to install a sewer system

Before you begin any manipulations, you need to check the pre-drawn sewer diagram in the apartment. This is useful for determining the number of pipes and necessary elements. To draw up such a diagram, it is necessary to take into account all plumbing fixtures, places and methods of connecting them to the sewer pipe. In addition to socket elements, plastic-cast iron adapters may be required, expansion pipes, revisions, crosses, couplings, bends and tees.

The main principle of the sewerage system is more high value pressure in the riser compared to atmospheric pressure, and clear consistency of slopes. At reduced pressure, due to atmospheric air sewer gases will be squeezed out into the living space, which contributes to the formation of an explosive mixture. If the pressure is excessive, harmful gases are released from the water siphons and penetrate into the apartment.

Dismantling the existing cast iron sewer system

Owners of apartments on the upper floors can immediately dismantle them. In other cases, neighbor consent is required in connection with the planned work, as well as temporary non-use of the sewerage system. Ideal option will be a simultaneous replacement of the entire apartment riser. If such manipulations are impossible, only one part of the riser is cut out.

All manipulations are carried out carefully, avoiding damage to neighboring pipes. Pipe cutting is carried out at any length due to the uselessness of old elements. Before this, all plumbing fixtures are disconnected to prevent their destruction. Short sections can be disassembled, after which the dismantling of the riser begins.

Using a pipe cutter or grinder, the middle of the riser is subjected to two cuts with a distance of 15 centimeters and a slight slope. Complete cutting of the pipe is undesirable due to the possibility of the grinder disc being pinched by the upper part of the riser. After this, the cut piece is carefully removed, followed by cutting off the remaining upper piece of the riser, taking into account the height of the shaped parts that are put on the remaining part of the riser. To ensure an even, clearly perpendicular pipe cut, construction tape can be used.

The next step in replacing the apartment sewer system is to remove the bottom piece of the riser. To do this, it is possible to carefully swing it and pull the pipe out of the tee. With strong pipe fixation, the riser seam and tee are cleared and then rocked. If there is no positive result, the tee is sawed off at a distance of several centimeters from the socket. After which, pieces of tee residues are removed with a special wedge. During the dismantling process, it is necessary to limit the sewerage from the possible entry of pieces of pipe. It is advisable to block the hole with a rag.

Do-it-yourself installation of a new sewer system in an apartment

The sewerage installation process can be divided into the following stages:

1. Using a square and a ruler, apply fixing markings for the sewer pipe to the wall, observing a 5-degree slope from the extreme drain point to the sewer riser.
2. Complete set of pipes of the required length with tees for connecting plumbing fixtures.
3. Applying clamp mounting points to the wall.
4. Drilling the required holes.
5. Installation and wall mounting.
6. Connecting pipes to the sewer riser.
7. Their extension with pipes of the required length to the next water distribution point with the entire structure secured with mounting clamps. Rubber lip seals are used for all connections.
8. Checking the tightness of the assembled system.
9. Connecting plumbing fixtures to the sewer system.

Features of internal wiring

The wiring is determined by the sewerage diagram in the apartment. To provide normal voltage In addition to rigid fastenings, floating ones are also allowed. Rigid fasteners with bolted seals ensure pipe stability. Floating fasteners that do not have a seal are allowed to move longitudinally. When carrying out installation manipulations, follow certain rules:

• The installation of main pipes is carried out in the opposite direction of the flow, which helps prevent leaks.
• Shortening and deformation of shaped parts is not allowed.
• The sewer line slopes in the direction of the riser.
• A rectangular transition of the riser into the outlet pipe is not recommended.
• The recommended diameter for the pipe leading to the toilet is 11 centimeters, for other plumbing fixtures – 0.5 centimeters.

If you don’t want to have an open system, you can hide it in two ways:

• Wall or floor backfilling by drilling a hole of the required depth or constructing a podium structure;
• After installation, concealment due to the construction of decorative plasterboard box under the pipes in the toilet and bathroom, subsequently tiled.

Video instruction - “Laying pipes and sewerage”

Dismantling the old sewer system in an apartment is in many ways a more responsible procedure than in a private house. After all, in case of mistakes, not only your home, but also your neighbors’ apartments may suffer. For this reason, many owners hire a professional team to work with sewerage, whose services are not the cheapest. But if you want to save money and are the happy owner skillful hands, you can replace your apartment sewer system yourself.

Where to begin?

The first thing you should do on the way to new system in-house sewage system is to draw a future network. It is important to do this even if you plan to replace pipes and some plumbing equipment, and not remodel sewer scheme, changing the position of sanitary fixtures and the location of pipes.

It is not necessary to draw up a drawing, as is done in design organizations, but the diagram should be as detailed as possible.

The plan should show:

• lengths of all pipes to scale;
• be sure to indicate the diameters of the pipelines, their number, as well as the number and locations of all connecting elements and water seals;
• sketch out the sanitary equipment and its location;
• riser location;
• the number of pipes and the distance from them to the walls;
• location of inspection hatches;
• pipeline slope.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for arranging a drainage system, as well as implement it, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of installing an internal sewer network.

Rules for arranging sewerage in an apartment

Since the sewerage replacement will take place in apartment building, in which apartments located above each other have a common riser, then do not forget to notify your neighbors about the upcoming work. After all, you will cause them a number of inconveniences, which is better to warn them about.

In addition, you will have to agree with the organization that maintains the house to turn off the water supply. So, you will at least protect yourself from the activities of forgetful neighbors related to the bathroom.

From a purely technical point of view, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

1. Many experts do not recommend replacing a cast iron riser unless absolutely necessary, since this material is really durable, and dismantling a cast iron pipe is a complex process, which, if necessary, is best left to professionals.

   

2. Modern material, most suitable for installation on our own, are pipes and fittings made of plastic.

   
   

   

3. An important condition when installing wiring is to maintain a slope for each linear meter of the pipeline. The amount of slope depends on the diameter of the pipe. If the cross-section of the pipes is 5 cm, then the slope should be about 3 cm, with a diameter of 11 cm - 2 cm. Changing the slope should not be allowed either in a larger or smaller direction, because this will ultimately lead to blockage.

   
   

4. The diameter of the pipes depends on their purpose. The riser, which will receive waste in large portions, should have a cross-section of 100-110 mm. This applies, for example, to a vertical pipe that collects wastewater from a toilet, washing machine and dishwasher.
   If the installation of the latter is not planned, and the bathroom has a separate riser, then the vertical pipeline receiving water from the kitchen can have a diameter of 5 cm. For sewer wiring, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 4-5 cm.
5. It is important to consider that the sewer system is subject to dynamics during operation. For this reason, when making a socket connection, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of one pipe into the socket of the other not completely, leaving a gap of 10 cm.
   This compensates for the increase in pipe length as temperatures rise. Another dynamic is associated with the creation of internal tension in the pipeline, which is regulated by two types of fastening the riser using clamps, which will be discussed below.
6. On pipes that drain water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers, it is recommended to install grease traps.

   

7. Of all the plumbing fixtures, the toilet should be located at the lowest point of the intra-apartment sewer network.
8. It is mandatory to have water seals after the plumbing, in which liquid remains, preventing the penetration of fetid odors into the room.

   
   

   Water seal for sewerage

9. If, during the operation of the old network, a characteristic odor emanated from the plumbing drains, and when flushing water from the toilet or washing machine, a loud squelching sound was heard from the pipes, then this indicates poor ventilation of the riser. Perhaps it's clogged fan pipe. Then you need to call a locksmith from the organization servicing your home. However, in some cases, simply cleaning the ventilation is not enough. Then the riser is equipped with a check valve.

   
   

After all measurements have been made, a diagram has been drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, and selected and purchased necessary materials, you can begin the dismantling process if we are talking about replacing the old network.

Dismantling the old network

Used pipes can only be removed when the water supply is turned off.

They start by dismantling the riser. It’s easier if this vertical pipe is replaced at the same time for all neighbors. However, this option is rare.

It is much more common to change the system in only one apartment. Let's consider this option.

Work related to dismantling the riser is dangerous and requires a certain skill, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out. In any case, you can’t do without a partner.

Step 1. Secure the riser from above using two half-brackets connected to each other with studs mounted into the wall. A rubber gasket must be placed between the half-brackets and the pipe itself. This measure will allow, when removing part of the riser, not only to avoid the fall of its section coming from the neighbors living above, but also to compensate for the vibration that will appear during the dismantling process.

Step 2. First, all plumbing fixtures are separated from the sewer network. The bathroom is emptied as much as possible.

Step 3. Cut off the pipe going to the tee, leaving small area pipeline. This measure will make it easier to dismantle the tee in the future.

Note! Cutting old pipes must be done carefully not only if you plan to preserve the riser or at least the tee. The reason for caution is the fragility of cast iron. During dismantling, vibration is created, which can damage the riser itself, and a fragment can clog the pipe.

Step 4. 2 oblique cuts are made in the center of the riser so that the maximum distance between them is 12 cm.

Step 5. By inserting wedges first into the lower and then into the upper cut, using a chisel and hammer, carefully remove the section of pipe between the cuts.

Step 6. While one person is holding on top old pipe, the other cleans the top joint of old pipes. If the sealing is done using sulfur, then you can heat the joint with a burner. The sulfur will melt and can be removed with a knife.

Step 7. Rock the pipe together with the crosspiece in order to then pull them out of the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors below. This joint can also be secured with sulfur.

Step 8. Clean the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from the old sealant.

The old riser has been removed and you can begin installing a new one.

Installation of a new riser

If you removed not only part of the riser, but also the tee, installation of the vertical pipe can be done according to the following scheme.

Step 1. A rubber seal lubricated with sealant is inserted into the socket of the lower pipe, freed from the old sealant.

Step 2. Now a tee is installed in the socket.

Note! In some cases, the connection between the cross and the socket may not seem strong enough. This can be corrected by using special silicone or plumbing tow.

Step 3. Mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil.

Step 4. Assemble the riser without rubber seals and install it in place for testing. At this point, you can mark the mounting locations of the fasteners on the wall. In standard apartments, 3-4 clamps are enough. If there are any errors in the assembly of the riser, they are corrected.

Note! Don't forget about inspection hatches on the riser. They will help in inspecting the vertical pipe for blockages and cleaning it.

Step 5. Mount the brackets into the wall.

Note! It is advisable to use brackets, since it is not recommended to install the pipe close to the wall.

Step 6. Assemble the riser for finishing, this time using rubber seals and hermetic lubricant. At the top it is connected to a cast iron pipe with a cuff, and the lower part is inserted into the tee. Fix the riser to the wall with clamps.

There are 2 types of fixation.

1. Near the sockets, rigid fastening is used, carried out using tightly tightened clamps with rubber gaskets.
2. Additional fixation can be achieved with a floating connection, which is made with the same clamps. In this case, a rubber gasket is not used, and the fasteners are not tightened too much.

The installation of the riser is complete. You can start wiring.

Video - Replacing a sewer riser

It makes no sense to dwell in detail on the dismantling of old horizontal sewer pipes. The main thing is to free the pipes from the concrete and carefully disconnect them from the tee. Since the pipeline is old and there is no need to maintain its integrity, dismantling it is much easier.

The principle of installing new wiring is not much different from installing a riser.

Step 1. First, draw the axis of future pipes on the wall with a pencil, observing the slope. Often a groove is made in the wall, in which wiring secured with clamps is laid.

Note! The width of the groove should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipeline laid in it.

Step 2. Roughly assemble the pipeline without gaskets and attach it to the wall.

Note! The sockets must face the movement of water.

Step 3. Assemble the pipeline from its entry point into the tee to the plumbing fixtures. All connections are made using rubber seal and sealant. The ends of the pipes must be chamfered and free from irregularities.

Installation of sewer pipes

Note! Some of the clamps must rigidly fix the pipe, while in others the pipeline must have a floating stroke to compensate for the vibration of the pipes during the movement of water.

Step 5. The toilet is connected to the riser using a corrugated pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm.

Step 6. Connect the rest of the sanitary equipment to the wiring.

After installation, carry out first visual inspection for tightness. Then you can turn on the water and use it to accurately check the strength of the connections.

Video - How to connect plastic pipes

Checking pipe joints

To make sure that the pipes are tightly connected to each other in the outlet and riser, you must proceed as follows.

1. Drain the bathtub by closing the overflow hole.
2. Release the drains and simultaneously open the hot and cold valves. cold water at full capacity.
3. Shut up the toilet drainer. It is convenient to use a plunger for this.
4. Fill the toilet with a bucket of water to the brim and open the drain.
5. Ask the neighbors above to drain the water to check the tightness of the riser.

If the work is done efficiently, there should be no water at all at the joints.

like this difficult work work needs to be done to replace the sewer network inside the apartment. If you doubt that you can do this efficiently and in a short time, then contact the specialists. After all, the neighbors also don’t come and wait while you figure out the nuances of dismantling the old and installing a new network on site.

Video - Laying plastic sewerage

Often, in the process of renovating an apartment, they not only refinish the walls, floors and ceilings, but also move plumbing fixtures - sinks, bathtubs, washbasins or showers. And this, in turn, leads to the re-routing of the apartment sewer system, changing the network configuration, and replacing the elements from which the sewer system is installed.

Since the project is not always carried out by specialists before this design organization. Therefore, the transfer of networks may lead to a violation of current sanitary and building codes, which are presented to the sewerage device.

To prevent this, you should adhere to the recommendations set out in SNiP.

Let's find out in this article how to make a sewer system in an apartment to ensure drainage Wastewater from sanitary fixtures and not to violate current standards.

Principles of sewerage design

The main condition reliable operation Any sewer network requires a correctly selected diameter and slope of pipelines. It would seem - what could be simpler? I took bigger pipes, that's all. But this is not entirely true.

In order for wastewater, along with the contaminants it contains, to move freely through the pipes, the correct slope should be chosen. The slope is directly related to the diameter of the pipe. And the diameter of the pipe is dictated by the flow of wastewater.

If the selected sewer diameter turns out to be larger than required, the requirements for filling the pipeline and non-silting speed of drainage will not be met, which can over time lead to the appearance of silt deposits inside the pipe, which cause subsequent blockage.

In turn, a diameter less than the required one can lead to the fact that the water simply will not have time to leave, since the pipe will not be able to pass the required volume of water.

The fillability of pipes with water with a diameter of up to 200 mm should be approximately 0.6. Filling capacity is defined as the ratio of the liquid height to the pipe diameter (h/d):

Sewage diameters and slopes

In order not to rack our brains every time when connecting each sink or bathtub, we decided that for laying the in-house sewer system it is enough to use certain diameters and slopes, which are guaranteed to meet all the requirements for the sewer system - its slopes and diameter.

These diameters and slopes directly depend on the type of plumbing equipment that is connected to the sewer network and the per second costs from them. All these costs can be found in Table A.1 of Appendix A SP 30.13330.2012 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”.

Thus, the highest second flow that sewer pipes in a residential building should be able to pass is approximately 1.6 l/s. This is the flow rate at which the drains move when you flush the toilet. To pass such a flow, pipes with an internal diameter of 100 mm are used.

From sinks, washbasins and shower cabins the costs are much lower and for their disposal, as a rule, pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm are sufficient.

In general, for laying sewerage in an apartment, you can use the slopes and diameters shown in the table below:

Device type	Connection diameter	Slope
		Nominal	Minimum
Sink
Urinal, washbasin, bathtub

A slope of 0.02 means that when laid, for every 100 cm of its length the pipe will drop by 2 cm. And with a slope of 0.035, for every meter of pipe the drop will be 3.5 cm.

If you stick to these diameters and slopes, you can't go wrong.

In general, sometimes it is convenient to use minimum slopes, which are very easy to determine. To do this, it is enough to divide one by inner diameter pipes in millimeters. In this way, you can quickly estimate offhand how much the sewer pipe will drop during installation in order to understand at what level to start laying. So, for example, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm can be laid with minimum slope 1/200 = 0,005.

You can watch a video on how to lay a sewer with the required slope below:

Requirements for laying sewerage

It has already been said above that each section of sewer pipes must provide passage necessary expenses and have a certain bias. But there are still some sewer installation requirements that you should know before starting the sewer project.

One of the main rules (clause 8.2.2. SP 30.13330.2012) states the following:
“Sections of the sewer network should be laid in a straight line. Changing the direction of laying is done using special connecting parts.”

That is, you cannot take and bend, for example, polymer pipe, simply heating it with a burner. All changes in the direction of laying must be carried out using bends, half-bends, tees, and crosses.

Another rule (clause 8.2.5. SP 30.13330.2012) tells us that:
“Bilateral connection of drain pipes from bathtubs to one riser at the same level is allowed only with the use of oblique crosses. Connect sanitary fixtures located in different apartments on the same floor, to the same pipeline is not allowed.”

That is, in other words, you can connect the drain pipes from the kitchen appliances and from the bathroom plumbing to one riser, but for this you will need to use an oblique cross. A straight cross will not work here.

But it will no longer be possible to connect plumbing fixtures located in different apartments to one riser. And in fact, suddenly a blockage occurs, you will need to quickly take measures to clear it, but you won’t be able to get to the place of the blockage, since the owner of the apartment has simply left somewhere.

In addition to these requirements, when designing indoor sewage systems, the following rules should be taken into account:

1. Sewerage is allowed to be laid openly in underground areas, technical floors, as well as in special rooms for laying utility networks. In other cases, sewer pipes must be laid hidden in special attached boxes (for example, in plasterboard boxes), in false ceilings, under baseboards in the floor, in special shafts and grooves.
2. To provide fire safety SNiP prescribes the laying of sewer pipes from polymer materials hidden behind structures whose flammability level is not lower than G2.
3. Passages of sewer risers through interfloor ceilings must be done with sealing cement mortar over the entire thickness of the ceiling, and above the ceiling - to a height of 8-10 cm.

It seems that no questions should arise here, since each of the requirements is quite reasonable and is aimed at ensuring sanitary and fire safety standards in the premises.

Just below you can watch a video on how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and tile it:

Where can you not lay sewerage in a residential area?

In accordance with the current SNiP standards, laying sewerage is not allowed under the ceiling, in the walls or in the floor. living rooms, kitchens and sleeping areas. Therefore, before installing a sewer system in an apartment, you should make sure that the wiring diagram excludes network passages that are prohibited for its installation.

As a rule, when installing sewerage in an apartment, this requirement is rarely violated. And in fact, who would even think of laying a sewer under the ceiling in the bedroom or living room?

But now, if you own own home, to comply with this rule it is necessary in advance at the stage architectural project layouts, arrange the rooms so that the rooms are above the rooms, and the bathrooms and baths are above the bathrooms and bathrooms.

Sewerage outlets for residential and public premises

If in the same house there are both residential apartments and public premises (post office, store, etc.), sewer outlets for them must be arranged separately.

At enterprises, it is not allowed to connect industrial sewerage systems transporting wastewater containing flammable and flammable liquids to the domestic sewerage network and drains.

But this rule is unlikely to be useful to you when relaying pipes inside your home. However, this requirement is very relevant where flammable liquids are discharged. In addition, this requirement results in a ban on flushing various solvents (acetone, gasoline, etc.) into the toilet during repairs

Where are sewer inspections and cleanings installed?

Clogging of the sewer during its operation is not such a rare thing, and therefore, in order to be able to quickly clean the internal sewer network, it is necessary to install special elements - cleaning and revisions.

Inspection differs from cleaning in that it is installed on a sewer riser, while cleaning is installed on horizontal section outlet pipeline. They are small hatches directly on the sewer pipe, closed with a lid held in place with bolts (on cast iron pipes) or threads (on plastic pipelines).

If a blockage occurs, the plumber will need to open the revision or clean it out and destroy it with a plumbing cable:

Inspections and cleanings are not carried out at random, but in strictly defined places. The installation locations for cleaning and inspection are listed in clause 8.2.23. SP 30.13330.2012:

• on risers, if there are no indentations on them - in the lower and upper floors, and in the presence of indentations - also in the floors located above the indentations;
• in residential buildings with a height of 5 floors or more - at least every three floors;
• at the beginning of sections (along the movement of wastewater) of drain pipes when the number of connected devices is 3 or more, under which there are no cleaning devices;
• at network turns - when changing the direction of movement of wastewater, if sections of the pipeline cannot be cleaned through other sections;
• in passage tunnels.

As you can see, the installation locations for cleaning and inspection allow for the use of a short length of plumbing cable for cleaning, located in close proximity to places of possible blockage - before turns and indentations.

The distance between inspections and sewer cleanings is determined according to Table 4 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Distance between inspections and cleaning depending on the type of wastewater, m				Type of cleaning device
Pipeline diameter, mm	Industrial uncontaminated drains and drains	Household and industrial, close to them	Production containing a large number of suspended solids
				Cleaning
				Cleaning
200 or more

Inspections and cleanings are installed so that they are easily accessible. If the network is laid under the ceiling, then the cleaning should be carried out to the floor above, and if the network goes under the floor, the inspection hatch is located in a small recess in the floor, closed by a lid (hatch).

Installation of hatches for sewerage maintenance

In order to provide access to the sewerage system for its maintenance, hatches should be installed in certain places to allow access to cleanings and inspections if necessary (clause 8.2.13. SP 30.13330.2012). The size of the hatch should be no more than 0.1 square meters.

Installing plumbing fixtures in the basement

In some cases, it may be necessary to install a sink or other plumbing fixture in the basement or ground floor. In this case, the side of the plumbing fixture is lower than the neck of the hatch sewer well and if it floods, the basement may be filled with sewage.

To prevent this from happening, such plumbing fixtures are connected to separate system sewerage system that is not connected to the sewerage system of the premises located above, and an automated shut-off valve is installed at the outlet, which, in the event of flooding, closes the outlet, preventing wastewater from entering it from the external network and flooding the basement.

Instead of an electric valve, you can install a pump that will turn on when water is used and pump the wastewater to a higher level, as shown in the figure below:

Length of sewer outlet to first well

If you have your own home, you should know that the maximum distance from cleaning to the axis of the first well in the direction of movement of wastewater in the external sewer network is regulated by the values ​​​​given in Table 5 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Why do you need a water seal?

To prevent the stench from the sewer network from penetrating inside our apartments, engineers came up with a very simple, but very effective solution– connect all plumbing fixtures to the sewer through a water seal.

A water seal is a bend in a pipe that drains drainage from a plumbing fixture, in the shape of the Latin letter S. You can see what a water seal looks like in cross-section in the figure below:

The design of the water seal is simply genius. After draining the water, a small amount of liquid remains in it, which reliably blocks the pipe, preventing odors from leaking through it from the sewer.

However, in some cases, a water seal may not prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. Typically, this happens in two cases:

• the water in the water seal has dried up and air from the sewer began to freely penetrate into the room;
• the water seal failed.

In the first case, everything is clear - if you do not use a plumbing fixture for a long time, the water in the water seal simply dries out, opening the way for unpleasant odors. Therefore, if you plan to go somewhere for a long time, you can protect against drying out by pouring it into the toilet or sink vegetable oil, which will prevent water from evaporating and protect the water plug from drying out.

In the second case, everything is somewhat more complicated. The water seal may fail due to the fact that when moving along the riser large mass water, a vacuum is formed behind it, which can cause a breakdown. The water from the water seal will simply be sucked out by this vacuum.

July 15, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Currently, replacing sewer pipes in an apartment with your own hands is not done with the cast iron that was there before, it is replaced with polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This not only saves money, but also greatly facilitates the work process, since PVC products are very light and easy to install, and have a service life of at least 50 years (the same as cast iron).

But I will talk about the advantages of such a solution below, and main theme There will be a montage itself, and I also suggest you watch the video in this article.

Installation of sewerage in an apartment

Since in most cases you need to change sewer pipes in an apartment according to the same project as before, calculating the amount of material is quite simple.
But, in cases where new bathrooms are added, you will also need to add the amount of material.

Most common mistakes

1. On the riser there is a separate drain tee for connecting the toilet and a thinner sewer pipe or a direct outlet, only for connecting the toilet. This fitting is much longer than the PVC fitting and, of course, takes up more scarce space; moreover, such adapters are not always in good condition. In most cases it is difficult to remove them, but it must be done. This way you will free up space and be able to open the doors of the toilet (bath) inwards so that they do not hit the toilet;
2. Some people believe that if the riser does not leak, then it can be left alone, even though it appearance leaves much to be desired, but it serious mistake. As I noted, the main motivation for such passivity is high price for the replacement work. But in the event of a breakthrough, the cost will already increase, since moral problems will also be added here in the form of feces on the floor and not really pleasant aroma in the apartment. Remember that this pipe can be replaced with a plastic one even if the neighbors below and above do not want such repairs!
3. Another serious mistake that I often see among customers is the fear of hiding the wiring of water supply and sewerage pipes under ceramic tiles- what if it breaks through? Reasonable arguments in such cases usually work in a 50/50 ratio! But there are very serious arguments in favor of sealing such communications - this is the absolute anti-corrosion structure of PVC and the excellent quality of rubber double-leaf seals at the joints (about decorative effect I'm already keeping silent).
4. Another extreme is when sewer pipes in an apartment are replaced by the owners themselves, sometimes they do not consider it necessary to fix the pipeline to open area brackets. Of course, if this is a solid and short section of no more than a meter, then you can do without a console, but in other cases fasteners are required! Be that as it may, the pipes will become dirty and will have to be cleaned at some point, and the loose joints will simply fall apart.

Dismantling nuances

Of course, “breaking is not building,” but such “wisdom” is not entirely appropriate here, since we need to leave certain sections of the pipeline intact, and cast iron is a rather fragile metal. So, if the riser does not need to be replaced, then we will need to remove the fan tee or outlet (the tee is somewhat easier to remove due to its configuration).

First, free it from the 75 pipes that go under the bathtub, sink and sink - just pull them out or cut them off at the fan fitting with a grinder.

After this, you need to loosen the fan fitting and if it is a tee, then leave a piece of 75 pipe in it, as shown in the photo above, for ease of pulling. Very rarely this can be done by hand without using any tools.

In 95% of cases, you will first have to remove all the sealant from the socket where this fitting goes - this can be resin, cement, lime mortar, lead and even rags. Some people use a cutter or blowtorch, but I usually make do with a chisel and dismantle it in 20-40 minutes.

I don't use heat because:

1. firstly, the fitting will not come out “hot” (the metal expands);
2. and, secondly, there is a whole cascade of “flavors” that you will get from the pipeline.

So, after the bell, try to loosen the bend with your hands or with a hammer, but you need to constantly clean the joint - this way the insert will gradually come out. If the fitting breaks off and its neck remains in the socket, then it is carefully broken with a chisel so as not to damage the walls of the socket.

Dismantling the riser (1-fan fitting; 2 - revision)

Now let's figure out how to dismantle the riser if the neighbors below and above do not support you (instructions on this matter are not provided by any GOST or SNiP). You will first need to simply cut out a piece of vertical pipe in the locations shown in the diagram above.

To do this, you will need a 230 mm disc, but you can get by with a diameter of 180 mm, you just have to finish off the pipe with a hammer. When you cut this piece out, you will have an excellent lever for loosening, but it must be used very carefully so as not to damage the bell of the downstream piece of pipe (if this happens, then replacing the riser of the neighbor below will be at your expense).

Most likely, you will have to break the floor along the perimeter of the riser to free the transition fitting - this way you remove not only the elbow, but also the direct adapter. I can't tell you the exact steps here, since the joints may behave differently.

I can only say that if you don’t rush, the dismantling will go smoothly. By the way, it is precisely such moments that sometimes mainly determine how much it costs to change the sewer system in an apartment, since replacement in the usual mode is simply priced according to the number of points (the cost of one point differs depending on the region).

If you don't live in top floor, that is, there is a chance that one of the neighbors above will use the sewer, even if you warn them (tested from personal experience!).
Therefore, immediately stock up on a basin - when a cut pipe sticks out from above, and you hear the characteristic noise of a drain - immediately substitute the prepared container.
It’s better to catch them in a bowl than to remove them from the floor later.

Installation work

We continue to look at how to replace sewer pipes in an apartment and let's start with the riser that you cut out (if you change it entirely, then there’s nothing to even talk about - just insert fan tees and reductions on the floors). To make the transition you will need a reducing fitting with a cast iron socket and a coupling, but a 110 pipe - both of these fittings are clearly visible in the photo above.

There are O-rings there, but to be on the safe side, you can lubricate them with silicone sealant, and if this is your first time, be sure to lubricate them.

From below, to move into the socket of a cast iron pipe, you will also need a reduction, only this time it is rubber - such as in the top photo. And then everything is simple - put on the adapter at the top with the coupling pushed onto it as far as it will go.

Insert a fan fitting from below (it will be either a tee or a cross with a 50 mm bend), and insert a piece of pipe into it so that it is shorter by the length of the socket (this makes it easier to insert). Then lower the coupling down so that it grabs two edges at once (if necessary, apply silicone to the seals) - the riser is ready.

After installing the riser, replacing the sewer system in the apartment is very simple - you will need to assemble a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm from fragments of the required length, connecting them with tees to drain to a particular bathroom. If there is no fragment of the required length, then take a longer piece and cut it with a hacksaw, and chamfer the end with a knife for ease of assembly.

Do not forget that for each connection you need a two-leaf rubber sealing ring - they are supplied complete with the pipes.

To connect the drain from a washing machine or dishwasher you can use a siphon with a special outlet, as in the photo above, but this is only suitable if the connected unit is located in close proximity to a bathtub, sink or sink. But if such a device is installed on the other side of the room, then it is used for drainage PVC pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, and the entrance to the socket of the 50th pipe is made through a rubber reduction.

If the slope of the 50th pipe is optimal mode should be 35 mm/m linear, and at a minimum - 25 mm/m linear, then for the 32nd pipe a slope is not needed at all, and if technically necessary, a counter-slope can even be allowed. The whole point is that it provides for forced, and not arbitrary, drainage of water from the unit.

Sometimes the assembly of pipe fragments and fittings is difficult due to poor sliding on the sealing ring, especially if you buy pipes from different manufacturers.
But there is a good way out of this situation - lubricate the seals with liquid detergent, and assembly occurs without problems.

Conclusion

July 15, 2016

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