How to dismantle a cast iron sewer. Dismantling an old sewer How to dismantle a cast iron sewer in an apartment

Attention! Dismantling a cast iron sewer riser is a plumbing job of increased complexity. Sufficient experience in working with power tools and strict adherence to safety precautions are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. If you fail, you will flood your neighbors and, perhaps, not with water at all, injure your hands, damage your eyes, or start a fire.

It only makes sense to change the riser when the new plastic pipes go beyond the boundaries of your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, we will consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm by replacing the tee or cross located near the base of the floor; they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Required tools and materials:

1. Hammer;
2. Chisel, hammer;
3. Strong knife;
4. Small "grinder";
5. 3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding disc;
6. Old chisel, several screwdrivers different widths,length and sharpness;
7. Safety glasses, respirator, hat;
8. Steel wedge for breaking cast iron pipe parts;
9. two adjustable wrenches;
10. a large nail puller or a small crowbar to use as a lever.
11. Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. Using such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive and is rarely used on the farm.
12. Old iron bucket half filled cold water;

First you need to determine how the cast iron parts were connected, first of all, the tee (1) or cross (2,3) with the socket (fitting part) of the pipe located in lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the joint, usually it is located above the floor level. But if you have previously made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case you may need a hammer drill or chisel. You should work with both the hammer drill and the chisel very carefully so as not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with the seams caulked using the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Use an old chisel or a sharp screwdriver to pry it out upper layer seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling in order to get to the sealant. If it feels hard to the touch and the chisel slides across the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you drag a knife across glass, then it is very possible that you have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the picked sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time a caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

1. Metal, but preferably asbestos shields to protect flammable objects from open fire;
2. Gas torch or blowtorch:
3. Several gas masks, it’s better not to take on such work alone.

• Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet, dismantle the pipes of the internal sewage system (if you have not already done this). If plastic water pipes(and it usually doesn’t happen any other way) pass next to a sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut and restored upon completion of the work.
• If there are others above your apartment, then you need to warn your neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do this.
• Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere normal operation. Apartment keys, mobile phone, lighter, cigarettes may accidentally fall out of your pocket while working and, what is most unpleasant, fall inside the riser.

Work should be performed in a respirator, headgear and safety glasses.

Work technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If you don’t have a pipe cutter, use a grinder to make two almost horizontal cuts around the perimeter of the pipe at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge at the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe may sag and pinch the disk, and the disk, grinder, water risers, etc. may fail. tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable to make cuts not all the way to the end so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the resulting hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For subsequent installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of the upper ceiling with a height equal to the height of the shaped part that will be pressed on during installation. Define required height make a cut with a grinder (if you don’t have a pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, you need to try to ensure that the cut plane is as perpendicular to the pipe itself as possible. If you stick it near the cut line masking tape so that the end of the tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack in the narrowest place, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to dexterity, you will also need strength - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall; the further the pipe is located from the wall, the easier it is to do this. If the pipe is cut through at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is located at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the lower piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make a cut in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upward, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of pipe, located near the wall, is cut from the inside of the pipe with a grinder without a protective casing.

Preparing to install the top of the pipe. "Bulgarian" with grinding disc The pipe cut is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed along the entire perimeter.

3. Removing the lower piece of cast iron pipe from the socket concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast iron revision, coupling, expansion pipe etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try rocking the top of the pipe. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower bell. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you're in luck - carefully pull out all the loose parts. If the tee (crosspiece) “moves” even a little at the joint, then you can use a crowbar or a nail puller to carefully loosen it and remove it. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking for the possibility of swinging. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a hammer drill with a thin drill, preferably without a pobedit tip. The mortar at the joint is carefully hollowed out around the perimeter, and the remaining mortar is removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old metal cloth. But if you feel that this does not give results and are determined to change the tee (crosspiece), then there is only one thing left to do - cut off the tee (crosspiece) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that pipe scraps do not fall into the sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a grinder with the protection removed, cut through the piece of pipe remaining in the socket as much as possible at different angles of inclination of the disk, without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove pipe remains inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removing the tee or cross if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or crosspiece itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large bell of the crosspiece or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to insert the working part of the blowtorch into the pipe, and thereby ensure the necessary heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is placed on top of the pipe. This will allow you to regulate the draft in the riser. If in the lower ceiling near the socket there is through holes, for example, remaining after installing a water supply system, then through these holes molten sulfur can get into the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, onto the neighbor’s head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small cracks you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge made of non-flammable material so that as little sulfur as possible gets into the riser. It is advisable to perform heating evenly and change the direction and angle of the torch as often as possible. With sudden heating, even a whole bell can burst; if you hear a loud bang, you know that you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from low quality cast iron. However, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill out the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a pobedit tip; you can also use a drill with long drill, to remove possible stresses. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. It is advisable to remove hardened pieces to the side, away from open fire. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, molten sulfur can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so wear protective glasses when working with gas burner or blowtorch necessary. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by rocking or hitting with a hammer from different sides. As soon as play appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either by first swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two supplied adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the grip site may break, so you need to act carefully.

If there is still burning sulfur on the tee (crosspiece), then lower the tee into an iron bucket with cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from any remaining sulfur, caulk, or soot with an old chisel or a sharp, strong knife.

Surely there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. Cast iron is still in great demand in sewer laying. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which makes it possible to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function in damp or cold rooms for decades, paint adheres well to a cast iron pipe, that is, it can be inscribed beautifully into design. In a word, a sewer pipe made of cast iron is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies her main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, part of such a pipeline. And sometimes there is an urgent need for this. For example, you needed an additional outlet or the existing outlet became unusable. What to do?

embossed pipe before starting work

It’s best when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be confident in the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often you have to wait weeks for a plumber, and their prices are, to put it mildly, inflated. It happens that this “master” has no experience in similar works. Not all those who wear plumber's overalls are plumbers.

Therefore, if you have at least some skills in working with your hands, then you can disconnect or, as they correctly say, hammer out cast iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on an algorithm of actions.

Preparing for pipe caulking

First of all, you need to stock up on everything in advance necessary tool so that it is at hand. You need to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably one adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be reached with a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it’s a good idea to have several spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

heating the pipe before starting caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were caulked, the condition of the caulking, and your skills, the operation may take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all the plumbing repair jobs, caulking cast iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and you can do it too.

First stage

So, let's begin dismantling the cast iron sewer system with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flowing through the disassembled pipe. It is advisable (but not necessary) to agree with your upstairs neighbors to temporarily limit the use of the water supply, and therefore the sewerage system. We free up as much space as possible and disconnect all drain pipes. A special mention needs to be made about the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugation, while Soviet toilets were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, then it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, and you need to clear out the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

start of coining cast iron pipe using a chisel and hammer

Having removed the toilet and disconnected the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be caulked. If you need to replace the end pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problem part of the pipe is in the middle common pipeline or has additional branches - cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. Never flush!

The incision is made with a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the remaining part with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a fragile material. This fragility is unpredictable; you can hit one place several times to no avail, but it will crack unexpectedly in another. The pipes you are replacing are already worn out and may have holes and microcracks inside, which could cause the pipe to burst. And the danger is that part of the bell may break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will have to be changed, and it may be part of a common riser or pass through interfloor covering. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

Properly performed partial pipe caulking

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal cuts on the rest of the pipe up to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from getting into the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it’s better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rag won’t fly into the riser.

Caulking of pipes caulked in different ways

Carefully make several blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If slight movement is observed, then the caulking method is simpler, consisting of a compacted rope (heel). In this case, you need to try to dig through its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, hooking the edge of the heel with pliers, we try to pull it all out, while shaking the rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of caulking in Soviet time there was a pouring of sulfur into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this you only have to use effective method– heating Be sure to remember simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use the respirator in mandatory, and if possible, then a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if there is a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more valuable!

connection of a hammered pipe with a plastic pipe

So, let's heat the sulfur. Periodically tap the pipe until it begins to move noticeably. This suggests that the consistency of the sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, pull it towards us, loosening it. That's it, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the socket, it is necessary to clean it of any remaining sulfur or caulking. This is done using a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the bell seat, as the main working surface. The caulking procedure is completed.

If the description of the process does not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking occurs, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

Replacement of water supply and sewer pipes usually necessary when the system is partially or completely worn out. And if the decision is made to carry out engineering works without the participation of professionals, you need to prepare in advance and know how to dismantle the sewer yourself.

Do-it-yourself repair work is dangerous because even when replacing a worn part, there is a possibility that the leak will reappear. As a result, if the sewer pipes are not trustworthy, it is better to completely change the entire system. But before this, it is necessary to dismantle the sewer.

By replacing pipes, it is possible to completely change the system of their arrangement, especially since today’s materials allow this to be done without any problems. Modern materials, for example, pipes made of metal-plastic, are more reliable, strong and durable than cast iron, and most importantly, sewer pipes are installed quite quickly and relatively simply.

When replacing the entire riser, it would be more appropriate to replace all plumbing fixtures and outlets located on the equipment. In addition, when repairing sewer pipes, you can change the entire route of the old sewer. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the correct slope and diameter of the pipes.

Tools and materials

When purchasing the required materials, you must mainly pay attention to their quality, and not to the price (as many do). Unnecessary savings and the use of cheap, low-quality materials often backfire in the future. It is necessary to make sure in advance that all purchased equipment is not subject to corrosion and is resistant to mechanical damage.

To remove worn out sewer pipes you will need:

• pencil for marking;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• sealant;
• cement mortar.

Materials that may be useful:

• rubber cuffs for fastening pipes in sockets;
• pipes of the required diameter and required length;
• tees;
• compensators for joining sewer pipes;
• special adapters made of plastic;
• clamps for mounting pipes to the wall surface.

Sewer system

Using a grinder, the pipe adjacent to the tee is cut at a distance of no less than 10 cm from the socket of the riser.

Dismantling cast iron sewer pipes begins with dismantling the riser. When doing this work yourself, you should know that previously cement-based solutions were used to perform sealing. Such compositions only become stronger over time. As a result, dismantling an old sewer system can be quite a hassle.

The most difficult part may be replacing the riser. After all, in the good old days, craftsmen filled with sulfur. To liquefy such solutions you need a gas burner or a blowtorch. When burning, sulfur solutions release harmful vapors into the atmosphere, so the use of a respirator by workers in such cases is simply a necessity.

When dismantling the riser in your apartment, it is forbidden to make strong blows and loosen the parts.

This can lead to damage to elements located in the apartments adjacent above and below.

It follows from this that it is better to change the pipes of all neighbors in the riser at once.

Specialists perform dismantling of sewer pipes in the following order:

• cast iron pipes are cut using a grinder;
• first, 2 cuts are made horizontally, and the distance between them should be approximately 10 cm;
• using a chisel, break out and remove pieces;
• the tee is dismantled;
• The rest of the pipe is dismantled.

Other dismantling methods

After the bell is dismantled, it must be thoroughly cleaned and old grease removed.

There are several ways to dismantle a sewer system.

If the pipeline is not assembled securely, then it can be loosened at the connections. After this, the system is disassembled into separate parts. It is also possible to split cast iron pipes into small pieces using a hammer. To do this, you first need to work with an angle grinder. This method is good because you can save the junction of sewerage fittings with plastic pipes. But in any case, it will be necessary to cut off the sewerage from the docking point. The pipe is finally cut off using a special steel wedge. It is hammered into the cutout, which is made with a grinder.

Very often, on old sewer risers, ready-made units were used, which were assembled from individual parts in factories. All joints of such parts were sealed with sulfur, and dismantling such a sewer system, as mentioned above, cannot be carried out without the use of open fire.

In any case (that is, it does not depend on the chosen method), all standards must be observed fire safety and other standard requirements.

Nuances and features

To ensure that the dismantling of sewer pipes does not turn into an endless nightmare, you must adhere to simple rules:

• pipe laying should begin from the bottom;
• the location of all bells should be towards the water flow;
• it is better to change the entire riser at once, rather than its individual components;
• the riser is connected to the toilet using pipes with a diameter of 11-16 cm, the washbasin is connected with pipes with a diameter of 5-7 cm;
• Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the future system. If it is assumed that the pipes will be hidden, then it is necessary to tap not the depth of concealment, but taking into account the required slope;
• When assembling the system, it is better to lubricate all gaskets and joints with vegetable oil;
• When choosing sewer pipes, you must ensure that there are no cracks or any swelling on their surface. They can cause leaks in the future.

As can be seen from the above, the sewer system is not difficult to disassemble. And almost every man can cope with this task without any problems.

When replacing a used pipeline, the most difficult task is considered to be dismantling the cast iron pipe. Adding to the complexity of the work is the material used to connect the pipes. Previously, for reliable joining of pipes, they used cement mortar, sulfur or aluminum (see. Thus, the entire structure became almost monolithic. Cement composition Removal is quite easy, but sulfur and aluminum require maximum effort (see).

Sequence of work

Some may think that dismantling old communications can be done quickly and without problems. However, it is necessary to take into account that the riser passes through several apartments, which means that if it breaks, many people will suffer. Dismantling is a plumbing job of increased complexity. Some experience working with tools and equipment and compliance with safety precautions are required. Therefore, such responsible work must be entrusted to qualified specialists.

To completely eliminate possible emergency situations, it is necessary to perform the following manipulations:

• turning off the water flowing through the riser;
• disconnecting the hose that goes directly to the toilet;
• dismantling the toilet, for which you unscrew the mounting bolts;
• All unnecessary materials, equipment, household appliances and the plumbing is taken out of the room so that there are no unnecessary obstacles to dismantling;
• pipes located a little further from the riser are dismantled with a hammer;
• get rid of structures leading to the riser;
• A special cuff is installed on the socket of the tee, for which the old lubricants are removed in advance. If this is not done, then it is impossible to talk about high-quality installation new system.

Important! Careless installation of the cuff can damage the tee. In such a situation, it will be necessary to replace a certain section of the riser, which will entail additional costs.

Dismantling Guide

Due to the fact that the sulfur used to connect sections of communications tends to harden, demolition will be difficult. So how can you understand what composition was used for fastening? To find out, you need to bring a blowtorch to the connection. Unpleasant smell and melting indicate the presence of sulfur.

Dismantling joints with a torch or blowtorch

To destroy a pipeline where there is a connection using sulfur, you will need a hammer, chisel, blowtorch or torch. Sulfur is chemical element, therefore, when heated, it will begin to release harmful substances into the air. They are poisonous to humans and harm everything around them. Moreover, the heating process can last several hours. Therefore, you will need a gas mask and other protective equipment, preventing fire nearby standing equipment or furniture. You can use a protective screen made of a metal base or asbestos.

Detailed instructions on dismantling communications

Dismantling the system begins with the elimination of pipes located at a distance from the riser. For operational work, use a hammer and chisel. After all, cast iron itself is a rather fragile material, and accordingly, it is easily susceptible to mechanical destruction.

Important! To disassemble pipes, it is not recommended to use a hammer with a metal attachment. If you do not calculate the force of the impact, the hammer will fall inside the pipe, which can cause a large-scale blockage of the sewer system or close the lumen of the pipeline. A hammer with a polymer attachment is suitable for the job.

The pipe removal process includes several stages:

1. Work with a hammer is carried out until the cross in the riser becomes visible.

2. It is necessary to loosen the crosspiece. This procedure is easier to do when there is small area pipes. However, some wizards do not leave extra in order to fully open the connection.

3. Wear all protective equipment and take precautions using protective screens. If two professionals are involved in dismantling, the work will take less effort and time. One specialist heats the sulfur, the second, at the same time, loosens the pipe, breaks off and removes the viscous sulfur.

4. The crosspiece can be easily removed from the riser when most of the sulfur has been removed.

Important! Care should be taken when removing pipe attached to a tee. Part of the pipe is cut off with a grinder. In this case, a fragment no longer than 10 cm should remain. Then this segment must be loosened and removed.

Possible problems

In order to efficiently dismantle a cast iron pipeline, it is necessary to cut off the pipe as much as possible to the section where the transition into the socket begins. This will simplify the docking of new equipment. You will definitely need a grinder. If it is not there, then use a regular hacksaw, however, the dismantling process will take a lot of time.

In some cases, when demolishing a sewer system, a lot of problems and setbacks arise. However, there is no need to despair. You can buy in specialized stores that will help connect cast iron structures and PVC pipes.

There are often various difficulties encountered when working with plastic pipes. To easily cut a piece of pipe, cut it halfway around the perimeter. Next, you need to act with a simple press and a small rotational movement, after which the pipe will burst.

Important! Cast iron construction can be quite strong, making it difficult to remove from the socket of the riser. To correct this situation, several cuts are made around the pipe every 2 cm. This helps to remove the pipe from the riser.

When it comes time to connect plastic and cast iron pipes, heating will be required. Previously cast iron connections cleaned of sulfur, then allow the system to cool slightly. The final stage can be considered the installation of a new pipeline. So that in the future operation of the sewer system there is no various kinds problems, you should purchase pipes made from modern materials. These include metal-plastic and plastic.

The most difficult step when replacing an old pipeline is the dismantling of a cast iron pipe that has served its purpose. Previously, when constructing communications, pipes made of cast iron were used, the connection of which was made with cement mortar, sulfur or aluminum. Pipelines assembled using the last two substances are very difficult to destroy, so you need to prepare for lengthy dismantling work. And this article will tell you about the technology for their implementation.

General progress of work

At first it may seem that dismantling outdated communications is a trivial matter, because breaking is not building. However, this requires just the right, qualified approach, because otherwise it is easy to damage the riser connecting several apartments at once. And this is a real disaster, the consequence of which will be the need to replace the common riser and, of course, boundless indignation of the neighbors.

The cast iron pipe should be dismantled carefully, adhering to the following order:

1. Turning off the supply of tap water to the apartment.
2. Using an adjustable wrench, disconnect the hose supplying water to the flush tank from the toilet.
3. Dismantling the toilet (you need to unscrew the bolts securing it to the floor).

1. Freeing the bathroom from foreign objects and equipment that may interfere with the work (bidet, sink, washing machine and so on.).
2. Dismantling old system sewerage. Due to the fact that cast iron is characterized by high fragility, pipes located at some distance from the riser can be easily broken with a hammer.
3. Removing pipes connected directly to the old riser.
4. Installing the cuff on the tee socket. First you need to thoroughly clean the bell of old lubricants that interfere with quality installation new sewer system.

Dismantling instructions

Destruction of joints with a torch

If the joints of a cast iron pipeline are fastened with sulfur, this greatly complicates the dismantling task. However, we have some tips on how to disassemble cast iron sewer pipes in in this case. Like anything Chemical substance, sulfur is destroyed under certain influences, namely, during prolonged heating with an open flame. High temperatures make it viscous and plastic, making removal of the substance from the surface simple.

To dismantle a pipeline connected with sulfur, prepare a hammer and chisel, as well as a gas torch for heating. By the way, the burner can be replaced with a blowtorch.

When the pipeline is heated with a lamp or burner, harmful gas - sulfur dioxide - will be released into the surrounding space. Besides, open fire also poses a danger. Therefore, measures to protect life, health and the environment are mandatory. Operations for heating sulfur can last several hours, so that combustion products do not harm the lungs, you will need a gas mask, and to prevent accidental fire of furniture and other elements interior will suit protective screen made of metal or asbestos.

Resolution of joints without a torch (video)

If you can’t use the burner, we suggest you watch the video below.

Dismantling instructions

It is advisable to begin dismantling by disassembling pipes located at a distance from the riser. This is not difficult and most likely there will be no problems if you use a chisel and a hammer, because cast iron is a very fragile metal.

Due to the fragility of cast iron, it is not recommended to use a hammer with metal attachments when dismantling. If there is a strong impact, part of the cast iron pipe may end up inside the pipeline, thereby reducing its clearance or forming a serious blockage in the pipeline. sewer system. Therefore, it is better to use hammers with polymer or plastic heads.

So, let's look at how to remove a cast iron sewer pipe:

1. Destruction with a hammer is carried out until the crosspiece inserted into the riser is reached.

1. Next, you need to gradually loosen it inside the riser. You can leave a section of pipe connected to the cross, then the operations to destroy the cross will be simplified. Some experts, on the contrary, remove cast iron pipes as much as possible, exposing the connections to the maximum.
2. Having donned protective equipment and covered the furniture with screens, you should begin heating the sulfur. The work will go faster if two people are involved in dismantling: one melts the joints with a blowtorch or gas torch, and the second removes the viscous sulfur with a knife.
3. When more sulfur has been removed from the joints, the crosspiece is removed from the riser.

Be especially careful when removing pipes connected to the tee located on the riser. Using a grinder, cut off part of the pipe, leaving a distance of 10 cm to the riser. Loosen the remaining element and try to remove it from the socket.

Possible problems

Dismantling of the old pipeline must be carried out to the maximum possible extent, since it is better to cut off a cast-iron pipe to the point where it passes into the socket. Then joining a new plastic pipeline and a cast iron pipe will take less time and effort. Don’t think twice about how to cut a cast iron pipe; use a grinder.

How to cut a cast iron pipe if you don’t have an angle grinder? Take a hacksaw and get to work, but this will naturally increase the duration of dismantling operations.

If dismantling attempts are unsuccessful, do not be upset: stores sell pipes specially designed for connecting cast iron and polymer pipes.

Sometimes when cutting plastic pipes Difficulties may arise. Try to saw it halfway around the circumference, and then apply slight pressure or perform a slight rotation - the pipe will burst.

If the pipe cannot be removed from the socket of the riser, and you no longer know how to remove the cast iron pipe, make cuts in a circle along the pipe at intervals of approximately 20 mm, reaching the socket, and then remove it from the riser.

Before connecting cast iron and polymer pipes, it is necessary to clean the former from sulfur, using the same heating. After removing the sulfur, the pipes are allowed to cool, usually for several hours. At the final stage, the installation of a new sewer network is carried out. It is best to purchase pipes made from modern materials: plastic or metal-plastic.

Return