How to install plastic windows yourself. How to install a plastic window yourself

Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows, which had to be sealed for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people strive to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and are especially interested in installation plastic windows with your own hands.

This desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows not only have an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as interior decoration. They are also much easier to use, last an order of magnitude longer, and are significantly cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to replace the old windows in your apartment with modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly ask yourself whether it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is it to install plastic windows, and can you do it yourself without the help of specialists?

Yes, it's quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools Anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What does a plastic window consist of?

First, let's look at the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from a special material called PolyVinyl Chloride. That’s why plastic windows are called PVC windows in short. Like any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (also called chambers), the warmer the window will be.

Typically the frame color is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and most a budget option– white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a stationary part, which is called a “capercaillie”. The glass unit is directly inserted into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Special mechanisms are installed on the window sashes, with the help of which the window opens and closes.

In addition, on the outside the window has a so-called ebb - a small board with the help of which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates that seal the side and top parts from the street side.

Stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands come down to the following:

careful measurements;
dismantling old window structures;
preparation of window openings;
DIY PVC window installation.

Taking measurements

Before ordering and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they are done will determine how your structure will fit into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the success. If you take the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows yourself, the structure simply will not fit into the opening. In addition, the windows may begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully examine the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Moreover, it is highly advisable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly smooth. Find the smallest measurement value and add 3 to it. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window has both inside and outside same size, measurements are made slightly differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values in order to leave gaps for installing the window sill and special polyurethane foam.

Each owner chooses the window sill according to the size he wants. Some like wide window sills, some like narrow ones, and some make them at wall level. This is individual, and there are no rules here. This applies to width.

The length of both the window sill and the ebb should be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Getting ready for installation

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always begins with dismantling the old window. As a rule, even novice builders find dismantling particularly easy.

After you have broken out the old window, you need to carefully inspect the opening and remove anything that may fall off later. If some parts of the opening protrude from the walls after dismantling, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. It should be sealed with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, you must take into account the following circumstances:

the plastic window structure should be carefully secured;
the window structure must be leveled both horizontally and vertically, otherwise in the future it may simply warp;
It is necessary to plaster the mounting foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid future problems such as deformation.

Plastic window installation technology

Install a plastic window with your own hands as follows:

The structure should be fixed on four sides using wedges, and it should be determined how accurately the frame is positioned relative to the opening;
secure the frame with special bolts;
attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
seal the plastic structure using polyurethane foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

We need to start with the fact that there are two different ways DIY installation of plastic windows.

The first method is to drill holes in the window frame for special anchors, which are driven into the wall. This is a rather complicated method, but a more reliable fastening.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. It is much simpler and quick way, however, such fastening is not reliable. The frame can simply warp even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decide to make your life easier and install a plastic window with your own hands using the second method, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic construction greater reliability. However, if your city is very windy, this method is definitely not suitable for you.

Direct installation

Installing a plastic window with your own hands using the first method with reliable fastening is carried out as follows.

First, you should check whether the structure and the window opening are compatible. If everything is in order, we proceed directly to installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

turn the window handle down, placing the window in the “closed” position, and use a screwdriver to remove the trim from the hinges;
pull out the pin, which is located on the top hinge;
open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, after which, by lifting the window sash, you can easily remove it from the lower pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the double-glazed window on the capecaillie. For this:

insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the bead;
move the glazing bead with a spatula, going along the entire length, and remove it from the frame.

After this, you can easily remove the glass unit itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you removed are no longer holding it. To avoid this, the window should be tilted.

The frame is freed from the glass unit, and now it should be covered around the perimeter with special tape. This tape is needed to keep the window warm.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also advisable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, fused with it, this will be difficult to do. In the meantime, the tapes are very easy to remove.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you deem it necessary.

Using a drill and a drill bit, special holes are made into which the fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be approximately the same distance from bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
The anchor is hammered into the hole and then tightened. At the same time, you must tighten the anchor carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After this, ebb tides should be installed outside. Before installation, self-adhesive waterproofing should be applied to the part of the frame that is located outside. Grooves are made in the side openings (the edges of these ebbs will need to be inserted there later).

On that part of the opening where the ebb will rest on the wall, a special profile is installed, to which the ebb will then be attached. If the height difference is small, you don’t have to install the profile, but simply apply a layer of polyurethane foam. Then the ebb should be placed under the ledge of the frame and attached to it with self-tapping screws. Along the lower edge of the ebb, you also need to fill it with polyurethane foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second method of installing plastic windows with your own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we have already said, it is less reliable. Installation using this method involves installing thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - approximately 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those in the middle. The metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is completely identical to the first installation method. In the same way, the window is leveled in three planes, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, they attach not the frame itself, but metal plates, and attach them to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of the fastening is that they first drill a hole, then bend the metal plate, insert a dowel into the hole, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that the house will be cold; water will flow into the room through improperly installed ebbs. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become unusable. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then, of course, an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is not immune from them.

Let's look at the 10 most common mistakes made when installing plastic windows.

The window size is incorrect

This is usually a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of an unsuitable window structure. And in case the window is too large in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor preparation of the window opening

If surfaces are poorly cleaned, there will be residue left on them. construction garbage, dust, potholes or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the polyurethane foam will not fit as tightly and evenly as necessary for quality installation DIY plastic windows. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon end up inside your apartment.

Ignoring wall insulation

If a plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then cold air will penetrate into the apartment at the joints. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall consists of one layer, the window should be placed exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is double-layered, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close to the insulation as possible. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install a PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between the window frame and the slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If, on the contrary, the frame is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Incorrect size of window sill

The window sill should be slightly narrower than window frame. If it is a different size, or they decide not to install it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will constantly be wet. Metal parts may certain time just get corroded.

Poor quality fastening of PVC window to the wall

If you skimp on dowels or anchors and there are too few of them to attach the window structure to the wall properly, over time the position of the window will change, the frame will become deformed, and it will be difficult for you to tear off and close the window.

Not enough polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating a window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, the heat will escape. Therefore, the gap between the slope and window frame you need to fill it properly, not sparing the foam.

No insulation tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape required by GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually become worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will deteriorate much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through everything necessary steps and carry out all the necessary actions efficiently, carefully and without haste. Then your beautiful plastic windows, installed by yourself, will delight you and your household for many years.

When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need to not only measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also calculate it optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.

To the measurements of the window sill and ebb, another 50 mm is added to allow for insertion into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components

Tools you will need standard set home handyman: screwdriver, level, hammer drill, set of hexagons, jigsaw, knife, pencil and tape measure.

The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.

Removing the old window

In the case of blind window frames, first the glazing beads and the glass they hold are pulled out. In the case of unlocking sashes, they are simply removed from their hinges along with the glazing. In the case when the structures are many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to remove the glazing from them in advance.
Next, in order to pull out the frame itself, using a regular hacksaw, it is sawed through in several places. In some cases, this work is done using a grinder with a circle on concrete.
Having divided the frame into several parts with the help of a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer, they are separated from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high-quality wood is well preserved, it can be left alone. But ideally, it should be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall.
Using the same technology, used windowsills are removed, especially if they are made of wood. In case of concrete structure it is crushed with a jackhammer; in its absence, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, a plastic structure is always warmer than a concrete one, so if there is a lack of heat, it is better to install it, and secondly, the old structure physically cannot ensure good contact with the new frame.
After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall load-bearing surfaces of the opening are inspected, cleared of debris and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing a new window

If a new window has opening sashes, it must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the foam expanding during the hardening process.

Before opening its doors, it is necessary to allow all fixing and insulating mixtures to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing works involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation

This operation begins by drawing markings on its frame for future fastenings, which are installed on all four sides of the frame at intervals of 700 mm. For light single structures, large intervals are allowed, not exceeding one meter. The extreme fastener is mounted with an indentation from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fastenings, the exception is double-glazed windows with a stand profile; they do not require fixing elements from below.
Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markings. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. For this purpose, special metal screws with a diameter of 4 mm are selected. They are already equipped with a drill tip. You can, of course, use simple 5 mm self-tapping screws, but in this case you will have to do double work, first drilling a 4 mm diameter hole for them with a drill, and then screwing them in. They are approximately equal in cost, but they differ in metal thickness, so the plates are sold with a thickness of 1.1 to 1.5 mm, and suspensions from 0.5 to 1 mm.
Recesses are made at the intended mounting points of the fasteners on the window opening. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply a window frame already equipped with clamps to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fasteners a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but load-bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
The window is leveled in the opening, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal planks at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and horizon at the top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from left to right, and of course on both the bottom and top sides of the frame. If there is an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all vertical planks are strictly parallel to each other. Aligning the wedges takes up the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But this is exactly what the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening will depend on, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.
Fix the glass unit in the opening. Once the position of the window is adjusted as perfectly as possible, it can be secured. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option is, of course, more expensive, but also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete can support a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross-section from 6 to 8 mm and a length from 75 to 80 mm.
Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed so that there is not even the slightest void left between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices larger than 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks of 1-2 hours for each layer to dry. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still need to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius, ordinary summer foam will not work; it is recommended to use a special type, winter or all-season.

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously aligning it strictly to the level, using the same technology as the window system itself. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong hand pressure.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - screw the plates to the plastic profile before fixing it Z-shaped made of galvanized sheet. Moreover, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

Along the inner perimeter of the window, screws 95 mm long are mounted wooden slats. Using a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
The U-shaped starting profile is installed on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is into this profile that the slopes will be inserted, so when installing it, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
Fastens with a stapler F-profile. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profiles, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
At the final stage plastic slopes Platbands are installed sequentially: one top and two side. To join each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjusting fittings

The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, screwdriver or miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve a position for the window sashes that would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.

They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebb tides

Usually, ebb tides are attached at the end of all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

Let's calculate the costs.
Time and money spent on self-installation.

The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit. After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

This time will not be wasted because by doing this work with your own hands you can be confident in the quality of the installation, and in addition, you can save a lot of money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.

Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Is it worth installing windows yourself?

There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, since they are almost ready for use, modular design, which does not require assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.

Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.

If the order was made from an installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing yourself in own home, having completed this work no worse than the entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.

Thus, when carrying out the work yourself, you just need to call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend, for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.

Common mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:

The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house completely defenseless for unauthorized persons to enter. To do this, they just need to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
Installation is carried out as is, that is, without checking and adjusting the level, which results in problems with the functioning of the structure.
Foaming the cracks using a can of polyurethane foam, do not read the instructions for it, which say about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. This means that in order for it to remain intact, the cracks with it must be covered with cladding.
Fixing the structure simply by foaming the cracks without securing it in any way in the opening. Such a mistake in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, the glass unit may, over time, under the influence of vibration or other factors, generally fall out onto the street.

It is not recommended for dismantling any wooden structures, and in particular old frame, use a metal cutter, as it is not suitable for this. Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 revolutions per minute, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disc on wood.
So that one of the household members does not accidentally ruin the work If you accidentally open the sash at the foam hardening stage, it is best not to install the opening handle at this time; without it, even out of ignorance, it will be impossible to open it, and in the case of solid frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

Plastic windows have gained fame as good-quality, reliable, functional and aesthetic designs, which is why their distribution can be seen everywhere today.

But if until recently it was believed that the installation of metal-plastic window blocks could be carried out exclusively by specialized organizations, today more and more consumers are inclined to carry out installation operations themselves. This circumstance is due to the possibility of significantly (by 60-70 USD) reducing the cost of installing window units. Considering the above, we suggest step-by-step description technologies, how to properly install plastic windows.

Determining the dimensions of the future window block

Of course, having decided to install a PVC window with your own hands, the contractor bears full responsibility not only for the quality of the installation work, but also for the correct selection of the design. Therefore, taking measurements must be taken with full responsibility.

When performing this procedure, it should be taken into account that window openings are of two types: with and without a quarter, and the sizing technique itself has some distinctive features.

In the first option, the dimensions of the window block are determined as follows. The width of the window opening between the quarters at the narrowest point is measured, and 30 - 40 mm is added to the resulting size to obtain the width of the structure. In addition, it is advisable to check that the resulting width of the window block is greater than the largest distance between the vertical quarters of the opening.

To obtain the height of the window, it is necessary to measure the distance from the upper (horizontal) quarter to the lower plane of the window opening - the resulting size will be exactly the desired value.

For the option when a plastic window is planned to be mounted in an opening without a quarter, to obtain the overall dimensions of the window block, subtract 50 mm from the vertical size of the opening (to allow installation of a window sill) and 30 mm from the horizontal.

In addition, you need to decide on the size of the window sill and window sill. And although this operation does not present any particular difficulties, when implementing it it is advisable to take into account the following factors:

The width of the flashing should be calculated taking into account the intended insulation or cladding of the enclosing structures (the flashing should protrude from the plane of the wall by 50 - 100 mm).
The width of the window sill is taken based on its functional purpose(will flower pots be installed, etc.). Usually the window sill is selected in such a way that its free part seems to overlap the heating radiators.
The length of the window sill is taken to be 80 - 100 mm greater than the width of the window opening, so that the edges of the window sill are recessed by at least 50 mm.

Ordering a window module

The next step is to order a metal-plastic window from a specialized organization. However, in addition to overall dimensions block, you need to decide on the following indicators:

Type of double-glazed window (1; 2; 3 chamber);
Type window profile(3; 5 chamber);
Availability of fastening elements and related accessories.

And subsequently you will need to order a window with the most suitable technical characteristics.

By the way, order metal-plastic windows based on the KBE and Rehau profile systems at excellent prices, you can directly contact the manufacturer Domkom.

Dismantling the window block

If it is necessary to install a plastic window in an already used room, the beginning of installation work will be the removal old design. This procedure must be done very scrupulously and carefully, so as not to get hurt and prevent the product from falling out (especially important for multi-storey building). The technique for removing the old window structure is as follows.

The window block is freed from opening sashes and vents.
All glass is removed from the structure (for which you must first remove the retaining beads).
Using a hacksaw or grinder (with a cutting wheel for concrete), cuts are made in the vertical and horizontal elements of the frame.
Using available tools (hammer, crowbar, pry bar), the structure is removed from the opening.

In some cases (if the consumer wishes to maintain the integrity of the window frame), it is allowed to remove it without deformation. However, this technique requires the performer to have some experience and a lot of time.

In addition to the frame itself, at this stage it is necessary to remove the window sill and external ebb. And the final operation will be cleaning the window opening from traces of construction debris and dust.

Basic installation of a plastic window

Now let's talk about the most important thing - the window installation process. But be that as it may, the methodology for carrying out installation work involves the implementation of a number of activities.

The first step is to prepare the PVC window for installation. To do this, it is necessary to secure fastening plates from the sides and top of the frame to the end, which will subsequently hold the entire structure in a given position. And although many installers use wall hangers for these purposes (intended for installation plasterboard systems) still more the right option in this respect will be the use of reinforcing mounting plates (due to their greater mechanical strength).

The mounting strips must be securely fixed to the end part of the window frame, therefore, when installing them, you should ensure that the fastening element enters the body metal profile window block, but at the same time did not deform the double-glazed window. The diameter of the screws for fastening the plates should be selected based on the overall dimensions of the window unit.

For a standard design, it is quite acceptable to use self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm, while for a large window block (2 x 2 m) it is better to use products with a diameter of 5-6 mm.

It is necessary to fix the anchor strips along the end part of the window frame in such a way that their spacing is in the range of 60 - 80 cm, and the distance from the corners of the structure is 100 - 150 mm.

The next step will be to install the prepared window block. And although at first glance this procedure is not complicated, the entire outcome of the event depends on the correctness of its implementation.

It is best to place the block in pairs, when one of the performers holds the structure, and the second carries out the required operations.

To install the window frame, it is necessary to install the block in the prepared window opening and, using wedges prepared in advance, adjust the position of the entire module. Of course, the result of this operation should be a high-quality alignment of the block, both horizontally and vertically. Therefore, when performing this work, you must follow the following recommendations:

Wedge the structure not only from the bottom, but also from the sides;
Compare all vertical elements of the window frame in one plane;
If there is an impost, place wedges under it as well.

After the PVC window is level, you can begin to fix it, for which you use anchor plates using dowels or anchor bolts fixed to the cavity of the window opening. In this case, it is very important to fix the elements specifically to the enclosing structures, which may require removing a layer of plaster at the location of the anchor plates.

When the plastic window is securely fixed, the installation seams are sealed using special foam. Here it is very important to take into account the properties of the material to increase in volume when hardening, which is why all work must be carried out with the sash closed (the window can be opened after 24 hours from the moment of installation). It is also necessary to take into account the specifics of using foam based on temperature and humidity indicators.

But in any case, before applying foam, the surface of the seam must be moistened with water, and when foaming an area with a seam thickness of more than 30 mm, the procedure should be carried out in two passes with a 30-minute break.

Installing a window sill for a PVC window

It involves fixing it using polyurethane foam. For this purpose, the product is cut to the required size (a grinder or a hacksaw with fine teeth can be used) and installed close to the stand profile. Next, using wedges, the window sill is leveled (a slight slope from the window (3 degrees) is allowed to drain condensation from the glass unit) and the free plane between the opening and the underside of the element is filled with foam. In order to prevent deformation of the window sill (from expansion of the foam), before foaming, a load should be placed on it at three points (5 kg each). In order to achieve high-quality installation of the window sill, when installing it, it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations;

To ensure a tight fit of the product to the window frame, first fix Z to the stand profile -shaped plates;
In order to locate the window sill outside the slopes by 50 - 100 mm, make appropriate recesses in the opening;
If there is a gap between the window sill and the window block, seal it with silicone;
Glue the end caps of the window sill with superglue.

Installation of ebb for a PVC window

The final operation correct installation Installation of low tide is considered to be the case for plastic windows. Why is it first cut to a given size (metal scissors are used), and only then fixed to the window frame with at least 3 self-tapping screws. Whereas, as finishing work, one should not forget about the design of the external slopes, after which the window is considered suitable for use.

Have you decided to replace your old wooden windows with plastic ones? Of course, it is better to entrust this matter to professionals, since the installation of plastic windows involves many nuances, if not observed, the windows may not retain heat, be not airtight, close poorly and fog up. If you are confident that you can cope with this task, then we will talk about the nuances of installing PVC windows in this article.

The content of the article:

Organizational matters

Advantage self-installation plastic windows is that you yourself will do it much more scrupulously than most installation teams who sin by not complying with GOST when installing windows. But again, we repeat that if you have never seen clearly and are not familiar with the process of installing plastic windows, order installation from specialists.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

It is best to replace windows in the warm season, from May to September. Installation work do this in dry weather; it is not recommended to do this in rainy weather. Many people are interested in the question: are plastic windows installed in winter? It is possible to install plastic windows in winter, but this is not recommended for a number of reasons. If you bought new apartment and you are planning to move into it as soon as possible or are making repairs in the apartment in which you live, then delaying the repairs solely because of the windows is illogical; making repairs now and installing windows in six months is even more illogical, since part of the repairs done will go down the drain, and leaving old windows while doing renovations is wrong. Windows can be installed in winter at temperatures not lower than -5 degrees. In addition, installing plastic windows in highly hot weather also not recommended. An important aspect When replacing windows, it is not only their installation, but also the correct measurement and the correct choice.

Measurement of plastic windows

Before you go shopping for a window, you need to measure the window opening, based on these dimensions, place an order or buy a ready-made window. The advantage of ordering a window is that they will make a window for you according to your dimensions; as for purchasing ready-made windows, they are made according to standard sizes, which do not always fit perfectly into specific window openings.

So, the window must be measured as follows. To begin with, the window opening is measured from the inside in width, from the base of the wall, so if you have slopes on the windows, they must be dismantled in order to make an accurate measurement. Then you need to measure the height of the window opening, taking into account the type of window sill. If the house is panel, then in such houses the window sill, as a rule, is part of the slab, so the new window will be installed on it, but if the window sill is removable, then it is necessary to take measurements from the base of the slab itself. After this, you need to try to measure the depth of the window opening; for this, you may need to knock off part of the plaster or remove wooden plank from the sides of the window.

Regarding measurements with outside, then here we first measure the width and height of the window opening, then again you will need to knock off part of the plaster or cement in order to use a knife to measure the depth of the opening between the window and the wall. If possible, also remove the lining: check whether there is a trim on the bottom of the window opening or whether the surface is solid.

As you understand, the window itself cannot fit right into window hole, since it needs space to contract and expand, depending on temperature fluctuations. As for the gaps, they are minimum size should be like this:

For windows up to 1m 20cm – indentation of 15mm;

For windows up to 2m 20cm – 20mm;

For windows up to 3m – 25mm.

When measuring, also take into account that the window itself should fit into the window opening only a few centimeters, that is, so that there is at least 4 cm from the edges of the double-glazed window and the sash, so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall, and slopes can be made normally. Having received the dimensions of the window and the so-called window edging, we take into account the specified nuances and obtain the size of the window profile. After this, place an order for the window to be made, or buy a ready-made one, and also order: a handle, mosquito net(fastenings), window sill and ebb.

Removing the old window and preparing the opening

When you have purchased a window and the weather is good outside, we begin work. Please note that all work will be very dusty, so either remove all things from the room or cover them with film. We begin work by dismantling the old windows; to do this, use a hammer, a pry bar and a chisel. First, you need to remove the window or smaller sash, after which the larger sash is dismantled. Next, using a hacksaw or jigsaw, you need to saw the partition between the sashes in half and tear it out of the frame. Then we saw part of the frame in half from the bottom, after which we further dismantle it.

When the frame is dismantled, using a hammer and chisel or using a hammer drill, knock down the uneven surfaces and make grooves on the sides so that the window sill extends slightly into the wall. Immediately before installing a plastic window, you need to thoroughly clean the window opening of debris and lightly moisten it. After this, we move on to preparing the window profile and installing it.

Installation of plastic windows

Before installing the profile, you need to remove the sashes and pull out the double-glazed windows from the blind parts of the window. Peel off the protective tapes from the outer part of the profile and put on the decorative caps drain holes. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the fasteners for the mosquito net.

Many old sources do not mention this, but today the technology for installing plastic windows has changed a little, and one more item has been added to it: profile insulation. These actions were included in the process of installing plastic windows due to the fact that most people, even with correct installation In compliance with all the rules, moisture (condensation) and fungus formed on the windows, as a result of which the profile froze. Thanks to this action, all the negative consequences that were observed previously should not appear.

For a tighter and more airtight fit of the profile to the window opening, the outer perimeter of the profile is covered with vapor-tight self-expanding sealing tape. Then the side parts of the profile on all sides (closer to the inside of the window) are covered with butyl-based vapor barrier tapes. On top, on side part profile, you can glue a seal from a self-expanding tape, after which, if necessary, a starting or expansion profile is attached. After insulation works Let's start installing the profile.

What to attach the plastic window to: mounting plates or anchor

There are two options for fastening PVC windows when installing them: on anchors and on plates. It is impossible to say specifically and unambiguously which of these two types of fastening is the best, since each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. In view of the fact that fastening is the most important component of installing a plastic window, and the fact that this issue is of interest to beginners who want to install plastic windows with their own hands, with your permission we will consider this issue in more detail.

So, first of all, when choosing the type of fastening of plastic windows, you need to focus on the type of walls. That is, if you have a panel or brick house, then you are not limited in choosing the type of window fastening, but if you want to install plastic windows in a new building or country house, which are built from foam blocks or gas blocks, then the windows must be fastened exclusively to mounting plates.

The biggest disadvantage of attaching windows to anchors is the so-called depressurization of the profile. As you know, inside the profile there are several cameras that are separated from each other. Thanks to these chambers, the profile “maintains” the temperature, since, for example, in winter the coldest chamber is located on the outside of the window, and in each subsequent chamber the temperature is slightly higher. In the outermost chamber, which is located with inside, the temperature is several degrees higher in winter than in the first chamber, thanks to this there is no temperature difference in the profile. In principle, the meaning is clear that thanks to this structure and the tightness of the chambers, they retain heat in the profile.

When the profile is fastened with anchors, it is drilled through, resulting in depressurization of the chambers. Also, attaching plastic windows to anchors requires more time, precision and skill, so this is not the most the best option mounts for beginners. If the profile is not fastened correctly, it can fail, and if this happens, the window will be largely damaged, since this is fraught with gaps both between the double-glazed window and the profile, and with loose closure window sash. The advantage of fastening plastic windows with anchors is that the structure will be more durable, that is, strong winds will not cause the profile to vibrate, and the likelihood that the structure will sag significantly after installation is also reduced.

As for attaching plastic windows to mounting plates, it is much easier and will also save a large number of time and the cameras in the profile will not be depressurized, and this is very important. The disadvantage of attaching windows to mounting plates is the lack of structural strength, that is, the window may shake slightly, but this will not be significant. However, mounting plates are the easiest way to attach a plastic window for beginners.

Some installers use both types of fastenings simultaneously when installing plastic windows. What type of window fastening to use is up to you. If you decide to mount the profile on mounting plates, then use self-tapping screws to fasten them to the profile, but if you decide to mount the profile using anchors - a drill or a hammer drill, then first make holes in the profile.

The first fastener is made from each corner at a distance of 120-150mm, then subsequent fasteners are made in increments of 700mm. There must be at least 3 fasteners on each side.

Profile fastening

Before placing the profile in the window opening with a level, check the planes of all sides of the opening. After this, using wooden blocks made of hardwood or linings made of polymer materials we raise the profile and adjust it vertically. Vertical adjustment is made from the top of the window opening, that is, from below you need to raise the profile using the mentioned materials. Then we align the profile horizontally. Preliminary fixation of the profile in window opening on the sides and top, use wooden blades. When the profile is level on all sides, inspect it to see if everything is correct, and proceed to fix it.

To fix the profile to the mounting plates, first use one hollow nail at a time. Then check the evenness of the profile again using a level and then secure each mounting plate with a second dowel-nail. If you fix the window with anchors, then make holes in the wall through the holes made in advance, using a hammer drill, screw in the anchors, but do not tighten them, firstly, you need to check the evenness of the window with a level, and secondly, you need to tighten the anchors slowly so that do not disturb the profile geometry. When the profile is fixed, we pull out the wooden blades from the sides and top, the bottom ones remain - they are the basis of the profile.

Low tide

The next stage of work is installation of the ebb. We measure the ebb and use metal scissors to adjust it according to the right sizes. Then a vapor-proof tape is glued to the bottom of the frame, which will protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window, under the tide. When the tape is glued, we apply a layer of polyurethane foam on top of it, and another layer on the edge of the slab to ensure sealing and noise insulation of the ebb. The ebb fits into the grooves of the profile and is fixed with special screws.

Sealing seams

Next, using special polyurethane foam for installing windows, we blow out installation seam between the wall and the profile: first on the left side, then on the right, then at the top. A special feature of this polyurethane foam is the lack of expansion, which is very convenient for installation - the foam fills the cracks, but does not swell unnecessarily. First, the surface of the wall can be slightly moistened. After a few minutes, when the foam has dried a little and expanded, we paste the second part of the insulating tape on top of it on the wall.

Installation of sashes and double-glazed windows

First remove the protective tape from the inside of the window. When installing a double-glazed window, use special pads so that it evenly covers the opening. Next, use the slats to secure the glass unit; you can hammer the fixing slats into the grooves using a rubberized hammer. Having installed the sash and secured it in the awnings, fasten the handle and adjust the sash itself vertically and horizontally. At the very end, a mosquito net is installed.

Windowsill

Then we move on to the pre-final part - installing the window sill. We foam the bottom assembly seam well and glue it on top vapor barrier tape. The next thing to do is install wooden blocks, on which the window sill will be laid. The pads must be at least 10cm in length. The level of the blocks should be such that the window sill is pressed tightly against the bottom of the profile. Another nuance - the window sill should have a slope towards the room of no more than 5 degrees. Please note that the window sill should not cover the radiator, otherwise the heat from it will not spread to the window. There is no need to attach the window sill to mounting plates, as well as to special clips: the method we propose will ensure durable and reliable fastening window sill. Check whether the window sill is held tightly, then seal it from below, preferably with polyurethane foam that expands. At the end of this stage of work, place 5-liter bottles of water on the windowsill to fix it.

Video instructions for self-installation of plastic windows

In order for you to clearly see the process of installing a plastic window, we recommend watching the videos below.

This video briefly describes what you need to pay attention to when installing plastic windows.

Most homeowners choose to install plastic windows not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is simple due to the fact that the design provides very easy-to-install fasteners and additional parts that are included in the package of the window. Many people are interested in how exactly professional installers install windows. With the most minimal skills in using tools, any homeowner can install such windows.

Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features, certain actions. It is advisable to carry out this kind of work with an assistant, even one who does not have any construction skills; when leveling the window, some difficulties may arise if you do this work alone. Proper execution of all installation nuances will help you complete the job accurately and save on the labor of hired workers.

Carrying out measurements and calculations

Before purchasing windows, you should take measurements of the openings - based on this data, you will place an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, you need to take into account whether they are a quarter or not. Foam concrete buildings are characterized by quarter openings, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than the same parameter for the opening. 3 cm is subtracted from the value defined as the width of the opening. Gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. An additional 3.5 cm should be left at the bottom for installing the window sill. According to GOST, 2 cm should be left around the perimeter.

To take correct measurements for a quarter opening, measurements must be taken at the narrowest point. When ordering windows, add 3 cm to the measured width; the length does not change the value.

More often, PVC window structures are not installed in the middle of the opening, but at a depth of approximately 1/3 from the outer plane. But if you are going to install the structure yourself, you can move the window a little at your discretion. To order sills and window sills, you should definitely take these parameters into account. Add 5 cm to the widths calculated for the intended location of the windows.

When determining the width of the future window sill, it is necessary to take into account the battery - it should be covered by the window sill by about half. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be placed under the base of the window frame. You need to leave a margin in length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.

Plastic side plugs are usually included with ebb and window sills. You shouldn’t refuse them, although some masters do just that.

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Window frame installation methods

The technology for installing polyvinyl chloride windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, you will need to take into account the following points: the material from which the walls of the home are made, and the dimensions of the plastic window structure. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.

Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:

using dowels, mounting anchors, which must be inserted into the walls through special through holes, which are made in the profile in advance;
Another option is special toothed plates pressed into the profile, which are not embedded in the wall, but are placed “off-the-cuff” and fixed with screws.

Option 1 is considered the more reliable of them. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to perform installation window systems with considerable size and weight. Window frames with through mounting resist quite well a variety of shock loads which can arise, for example, when operating PVC systems with doors that open in different positions. Anchors passing through the plastic frames allow more precise adjustment of the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.

Those who want to find out the method of correct installation of PVC windows that are small in size with fixed double-glazed windows may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fastening elements will not spoil the appearance of the window - they are covered by slopes.

To install anchor plates in wall openings made of brick or concrete, you will need to make recesses. If you do not do them, you will need to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. The anchors are inserted into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed using plates. If PVC windows are installed in a bathhouse built of wood, anchor plates should not be installed - they become loose during operation. In some cases, galvanized screws are used instead of anchors.

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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings

The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks or foam concrete, the differences will only be in the depth to which the anchors are installed. But openings in walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here you will need to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.

Plastic windows can be installed in walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It’s even better to wait 2 years - during this time the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. For buildings made of laminated veneer lumber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.

Window installation should not be carried out immediately in the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.

A plastic window should be inserted exclusively into a wooden frame, which will protect the window structure from distortion. Myself window unit must be free from any damage, the presence of defects and rot is unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.

After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue as intensely. To prevent it from causing crushing damage to plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the top edge of the frame and the window frame. After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed on both sides with platbands.

The building codes do not contain precise recommendations on what materials should be used to install ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. As a rule, standard sills are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window design. Window sills can be made of wood or polymers. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden window sill, that is, it can be installed before installing the window.

For those who are planning to install windows themselves, but do not have much experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood is highly permeable to moisture vapor, technical qualities the polyurethane foam used when installing the window is seriously reduced. To ensure that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, a foil polyethylene tape should be applied to the window block along the line on which it is applied. This nuance is not specified in the regulations, but experienced installers highly recommend not neglecting such equipment when installing a window.

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Standard methods for installing plastic windows

The technology for installing plastic window structures includes the use of polyurethane foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will add additional rigidity to the connection between the opening and the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam, obtained as a result of its polymerization, simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. So that under the influence of unfavorable external influences the foam layer would not lose its technical properties, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.

As to when exactly to install PVC windows, the decision is made by the homeowners. You can also come across the opinion that it is better to do the installation not in summer, but in winter - in this case, all installation flaws will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing polyurethane foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature this product can be used. The foam will only cure at the temperature indicated in its performance characteristics, so it should not be used for work in summer time foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions, and vice versa.

You can read about how to carry out foaming in the instructions that the manufacturer attaches to a specific product. Usually foam starts from the bottom, gradually moving upward. Movements should be rotary and circular. To expensive material less was spent, it is better to blow out the foam in several stages, calculating segments of approximately 25-30 cm.

To shift the dew point, it is better to perform foaming with different densities. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. The foam must be poured around the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps or voids.

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How to prepare a window opening for work?

To install PVC windows, you will need to carry out preparatory work before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction debris, particles old paint. At independent execution craftsmen should know that when installing a new plastic structure into a wooden window box, used, upper layer It's better to plan it completely. It is not reliable enough; it is better to remove it completely so as not to disturb the adhesion of the foam to the surface.

If the gap between the opening and the window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled only with foam. If the gaps are wider, it is better to partially fill them with other, cheaper materials. These can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene foam, brick fragments and other construction waste.