A compressor is a necessary device on a household. Making it yourself is not very easy, but it is possible. And for this you will need improvised means, as well as small things from the building materials store.
Materials
To create a homemade compressor from a fire extinguisher you will need:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 with a volume of 10.5 liters (as a receiver);
- pressure switch PM5, designed for water, but also suitable for air;
- two moisture separator filters;
- one automobile fuel, fine purification;
- adapters;
- crosses;
- reinforced PVC hose with an internal diameter of 10 mm.
See the photo for everything included in the set. I also purchased a valve (at first I thought that I would use it to regulate the pressure, and that it was no different from a reducer).
After I figured out that the valve and the reducer are still somewhat different things, I bought a reducer with a pressure gauge, and a separate pressure gauge to measure the pressure inside the receiver. We also purchased a thin silicone hose from a pet store, costing 10 rubles per meter. It is very flexible, light and durable, there is nothing better for an airbrush feeder.
And of course, where would we be without FUM tape, which is sold in any plumbing store.
Step 1. First of all, screw the balloon to the base. We take out all the stuff from the lid, and from inside the fire extinguisher, we leave only the cylinder itself and the lid.
Step 2. In the hole in the cast iron lid we cut a pipe thread, 1/4 inch. We also wrap FUM tape around the wide thread on the cylinder, make a rubber gasket (in theory there should be one, I had one too, but I put it somewhere, and in the end I cut it out myself from a car inner tube; after construction, I found an original one) and screw it on cast iron lid.
Step 3. Screw an adapter from 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP into the hole in the cover.
Step 5. We screw the pressure switch into the crosspiece through the 1/2HP-1/4HP adapter, and screw in the 1/2HP-1/2HP adapter from the side.
Step 7. To it on one side we screw a gearbox with a 1/4HP thread through a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter.
Step 8. From the other end, also through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, we screw a pressure gauge, which has a 1/4HP thread. On the opposite side of the cross we screw in a valve (to bleed air from the cylinder), which has a 1/2 HP thread.
Step 9. We screw a filter-moisture separator to the gearbox, which has a 1/4 HP thread and fits directly to the gearbox. The nuance here is that the filter must be positioned correctly (observe the top and bottom), and make sure that at the lowest point there is drainer.
Step 10. Next, we make a line for another filter, from the inlet side there is a 1/2BP fitting, which is connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP, screw it onto the filter having a 1/4HP thread. From the outlet I was a little tricky, because there were unnecessary details, and there were some missing ones that were needed, in the end it turned out like this.
Step 11. A 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the hole in the 1/4HP filter, a tee is screwed onto it (I had an extra one), on one side of which a plug with 1/2HP is screwed in, on the other side of the tee opposite the filter a fitting is screwed in 1/2HP.
ATTENTION: I did it so cleverly because there were extra parts, so that you don’t make this mistake, do this: a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the outlet hole, and a fitting for the hose with a 1/2HP thread is screwed onto it. The layout below will be given specifically for this option.
Step 12. Next, a reinforced hose is ideally suited to the hole with an external thread of unknown cross-section and pitch (I couldn’t find it) that comes out of the fire extinguisher as an outlet nozzle, which we secure on top with a clamp.
Step 13. At the other end of the hose we insert the fitting from the filter and also secure it with a clamp.
Step 14. Next, we again insert the reinforced hose from the incoming fitting of the filter and connect it to the outlet tube of the compressor. I think you can figure out how to secure this goodness there. I have a cunning system of several gaskets there and everything is clamped on top with a clamp.
Step 15. Finally, we screw a 1/4HP fitting into the outlet hole of the 1/4HP filter, onto which we place a silicone tube that fits almost perfectly on it, and does not even require compression with a clamp, the second end of the tube is already connected to the airbrush.
Since the pressure after the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any effort. At the inlet of the compressor, as I already said, a car filter is installed to clean the air.
Regarding the oil change, there are three pipes coming out of the compressor. one is inlet, the other is output, the third is sealed and is for adding oil. So we bite it off with pliers, but be careful not to get sawdust inside, otherwise the motor may be finished.
Drain the oil from there. I honestly didn’t measure how much I drained, but it was something like a glass. I poured back in 10W40 car oil, about 350 grams in volume. Automotive oil the better, which, firstly, has a bunch of additives that protect the engine, and secondly, unlike spindle oil, it does not “absorb” moisture.
What to buy where
1) A compressor from a refrigerator - either screw it together or buy it from organizations that repair refrigerators. I have no idea how much it might cost there, I wasn’t interested.
2) Receiver (fire extinguisher) - get it from an enterprise or organization, you can write it off, or buy it, I heard that the price for one is about 200 rubles
3) Pressure switch - 250 rubles, in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
5) Reinforced hose with internal dia. 10 mm - 55 rubles/meter, I bought two meters at the car market, although one would have been enough.
6) Silicone hose- 10 rubles/m, pet store, bought three meters.
7) Air filters-moisture separators - 170 rubles per piece, at the car market, bought a pair.
8) Automotive gasoline filter fine cleaning - 35 rubles, car market.
9) Cross - 1 piece
- Tee - 1 piece.
- Valve - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2НР-1/2НР - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4HP - 3 pcs.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP - 3 pcs.
- fitting 1/2VR - 2 pcs.
- Fitting 1/4HP - 1 pc.
All this is bought in plumbing stores, and in total it will cost about 500 rubles.
10) Pressure gauge - 1 piece, 90 rubles in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
11) FUM tape - 12 rubles, in any plumbing store.
12) Clamps - 5-10 rubles/piece. 6 pieces (or better yet 8 just in case), at the car market.
Amount: 1897 rubles.
Agree, not so bad! This does not cover screws, bolts, angles, etc. elements with which you will attach the receiver and compressor to the base.
Note: male thread - male thread, female thread - female thread!
Making your own small compressor for an airbrush is very simple. For these purposes you will need a small air compressor, as well as a container in which air under pressure will accumulate, in other words, a receiver. For this homemade product, the author used a compressor from a refrigerator as a compressor. As for the receiver, the OHP-10 fire extinguisher was perfect for these purposes, the volume of which, when measured, turned out to be 10.5 liters instead of the declared 8.5 liters; the fire extinguisher was obtained almost free of charge. The homemade product cost the author no more than 2,000 rubles.
Materials and tools for homemade work:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 or another suitable one;
- pressure switch PM5;
- two moisture separator filters;
- one fuel filter;
- reinforced PVC hose ( inner diameter 10 mm);
- gearbox with pressure gauge;
- pressure gauge for measuring the pressure inside the receiver;
- FUM tape;
- pliers, wrenches and other tools.
Airbrush manufacturing process:
Step one. Preparing the fire extinguisher
The first step is to empty the fire extinguisher of its contents. This must be done in an open area.
Now you get an empty cylinder; you need to screw it to the base. This process will not be difficult for anyone.
All contents must be removed from the lid, including the fire extinguisher. As a result, there should be a cylinder and a lid.
Step two. Homemade assembly
The cast iron lid needs to be cut pipe thread by 1/4 inch. You need to wrap FUM tape around the wide thread of the cylinder for tightness, and also make a rubber gasket if the original one is lost or damaged. It can be made from car camera. Well, then the cast iron lid is screwed on.
Then a 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP inch adapter is screwed into the hole in the cover. Then you need to screw on the 1/2-inch cross. Of course, all connections must be sealed using FUM tape.
You need to screw a pressure switch into the adapter with 1/2HP-1/4HP, and the adapter 1/2HP-1/2HP is also screwed into the side.
The author screws the tee on the side.
Subsequently, a reducer is screwed to the tee using a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter; it has a 1/4HP thread.
On the other hand, again through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, a pressure gauge is screwed on, it also has a 1/4HP thread. It is necessary to screw in a valve on the opposite side of the cylinder, with the help of which air will be released from the cylinder. The valve has a 1/2 HP thread.
A water separator filter needs to be connected to the gearbox; a 1/4 HP thread is used here. It is important to install a filter under right angle. The drain hole should be at the lowest point.
Then you need to make another filter line. On the side of the inlet hole there is a 1/2BP fitting connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP. It needs to be screwed onto the filter, which has a 1/4 HP thread. What should happen in the end can be seen in the photo.
You need to screw a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter into the hole of the 1/4HP filter, and then screw a tee to it. On one side the tee is plugged with a 1/2 HP plug, and on the opposite side a 1/2 HP fitting is screwed in.
Step three. Final stage of assembly
Now you need to take a reinforced hose and screw it onto the fitting coming out of the fire extinguisher, which acts as a nozzle. The hose is secured with a clamp. On the other side, a fitting from the filter is inserted into the hose, and it is also secured with a clamp.
After this, the hose is again connected to the filter and connected to the compressor tube. Everything is tightened with clamps.
On final stage a similar fitting must be screwed into the outlet hole of the 1/4BP filter. A silicone tube fits perfectly onto it and doesn’t even need to be secured with a clamp. Well, the other end is connected directly to the airbrush.
Due to the fact that the pressure behind the reducer is small, compared with the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any problems.
It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or inflating wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies removed from old technology. We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.
In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some additional parts. Let's look at a few possible options for making your own air compressor.
Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts
This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram future design and make a list of necessary components and parts.
1 — tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 — hoses; 6 — diesel filter; 7 — gasoline filter; 8 — air inlet; 9 — pressure switch; 10 — crosspiece; eleven - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 — receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 — pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 — moisture-oil trap; 16 — pneumatic socket
Necessary parts, materials and tools
The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have written off fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.
In addition you will need:
- pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
- diesel filter;
- filter for a gasoline engine;
- pressure switch;
- electric toggle switch;
- pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
- reinforced hose;
- water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
- materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
- safety valve (to relieve overpressure);
- self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).
In addition, you will need tools: a hacksaw, a wrench, a syringe, as well as FUM-leta, anti-rust, synthetic motor oil, paint or enamel for metal.
Assembly steps
Before starting assembly, you need to prepare the motor-compressor and fire extinguisher cylinder.
1. Preparing the motor-compressor
Three tubes come out of the motor-compressor, two of which are open (air inlet and outlet), and the third, with a sealed end, is for changing the oil. To find the air inlet and outlet, you need to briefly apply current to the compressor and put the appropriate marks on the tubes.
Next, you need to carefully file or cut off the sealed end, making sure that no copper filings get inside the tube. Then drain the oil inside and use a syringe to fill in motor, synthetic or semi-synthetic. You can seal the tube by selecting a screw of a suitable diameter, which must be wrapped with FUM tape and screwed into the hole. Sealant can be applied over the joint. If necessary, paint the surface with enamel.
2. Preparing the receiver
You need to remove the shut-off valve (SPV) from the empty fire extinguisher cylinder. Clean the outside of the container from rust and dirt, and pour “anti-rust” inside and hold it for as long as indicated on the product label. Let it dry and screw on the lid with the hole from the ZPK. We screw the adapter into the hole (if necessary) and attach the cross.
We attach a pressure switch to the upper branch pipe, on one side we screw in a tee and connect a pressure gauge, on the other we mount a safety valve or a valve for bleeding air manually (optional). Where required, we use adapters. If necessary, we paint the balloon.
3. Circuit assembly
On an assembled frame (for example, a durable board on wheels or a structure made of strong corners, pipes) we attach the cylinder, and on it or next to it - a motor-compressor, laying a rubber gasket. We connect first a gasoline and then a diesel filter to the incoming air pipe of the compressor. This must be done if the compressor is designed to operate an airbrush, in order to eliminate the slightest air contamination. And since the diesel filter is thinner, it is installed after the gasoline one. If copper tubes have lost their shape during dismantling, they need to be flared.
The power supply is connected through a toggle switch, a pressure switch and a start relay. We protect all connections with electrical tape or heat shrink. It is important to install the start relay in correct position- according to the arrow on its cover, otherwise the device will not work correctly.
1 - toggle switch; 2 - pressure switch; 3 — compressor start relay; 4 — relay position arrow; 5 — connection of the relay to the compressor windings; 6 - compressor
We connect the output air tube from the compressor through an adapter to the inlet of the receiver. After the pressure gauge, we install a gearbox with a remote moisture-oil trap, and behind it a hose with a self-locking air outlet.
The end result, with due diligence, works well and looks aesthetically pleasing.
Air compressor made from auto parts
The air compressor has a fundamentally different design, which is assembled on the basis of a ZIL compressor and a separate engine. This is more powerful equipment that can also be used to connect pneumatic tools. Very noisy unit.
Layout drawing compressor unit: 1 — compressor from ZIL-130; 2 — frame from a corner; 3 - safety valve; 4 - standard pressure gauge; 5 — transfer case; 6 - three-phase electric motor (1 kW, 1380 rpm); 7 - start box (from washing machine); 8 - capacitor battery (working capacity - 25-30 µF, starting capacity - 70-100 µF); 9 — receiver (from an oxygen cylinder or KrAZ muffler); 10 — V-belt transmission (reduction 1:3); 11 — “Stop” button; 12 — “Engine start” button; 13 - button for short-term activation of the starting capacitor battery; 14 — fitting of the flow (outlet) valve; 15 — aluminum tubes Ø 6 mm; 16 — exhaust valves; 17 — intake valves; 18 — wheels (4 pcs.); 19 — transverse stiffener; 20 — tie rod (M10 — 4 pcs.); 21 - drain hole with plug
Connection three-phase motor V single-phase network: a - “triangle”; b - “star”
Example self-installation air compress from new parts and assemblies you can watch in the video.
Compressors using all sorts of unnecessary things as receivers
If when choosing compressors and motors craftsmen We settled on units from refrigerators and cars, then they use everything as receivers - even bottles of champagne and Coca-Cola (at pressures up to 2 atm). Let's list a few worthwhile ideas.
If you have a receiver from KrAZ at hand, you can get a unit with minimal labor costs: all the pipes are already screwed into it.
If you are the owner of unnecessary diving equipment, you can use it at work.
Receiver made from scuba cylinders (installation stage - without capacitor bank)
Almost every summer resident with a stove on gas cylinders there will be these unnecessary containers.
Compressors with gas cylinder receivers
If the hydraulic accumulator in the water supply system has a leaky bulb, there is no need to throw it away. Use it as a receiver by removing the rubber membrane.
An expansion tank from a VAZ is an inexpensive purchase, even if it is new.
Receiver - expansion tank from a VAZ car
The next idea is for air conditioner installers who have leftover freon cylinders and details of split systems.
Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.
Wheel receiver
We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.
Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.
Main elements
The first step is to register technical requirements to our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. IN European countries many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.
The main thing is actually compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sales sites refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf file from technical description compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!
Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters are NOT one of these things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:
Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide choose containers - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - metric thread at the entrance. That's what I used. 
Option two- hydraulic accumulator. A decent selection of containers, but has a low operating pressure. The inlet has a convenient 1 inch thread. Requires fine-tuning before use, since inside it is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide holding water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market. 
Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge number of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones are available for welding work, and it’s extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some medical equipment (I’m afraid it’s very expensive), you can set up an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =))) 
Option four- cylinders from various gases(propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended. 
Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit
Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - best option- relay RDM-5 for plumbing systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread. 
Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connecting size 1. Important - you need a static device. 
Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. It is also necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.
Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, we’ll make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this: 
Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs that are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram: 
You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.
- Compressor - 1 pc.
- Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
- Pressure switch - 1 pc.
- Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
- Filter reducer - 1 piece.
- Emergency valve - 1 piece.
- Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
- Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
- Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
- A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
- Chipboard board for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.
Let's start assembling!
Compressor assembly
So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with a 1-inch internal thread was fitted to one of the outputs, and an adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed into the other with a creak. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).
The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to tighten everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - the tees and turns will never be at the desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.
Carpenter versus joiner
“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"
The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled them with a thin drill seats for them (this way they are screwed in exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you will be guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category of bad advice, it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process so that there are no sharp edges or burrs. 
After positioning the fire extinguisher, I placed two more perforated tapes on top and secured them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) “horizontal” type models have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones. 
In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers. 
We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks out, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. With help flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side. 
I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...
“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"
First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:
- The compressor has been torn out conventional scheme connections. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
- It is advisable to provide protective elements ( circuit breaker) - a controversial issue, in principle, in case of any excesses, the automatic device should be triggered on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another automatic device, in my opinion, is not necessary.
- The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
- Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.
The connection must be made according to the following scheme:
From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:
General form connection diagrams. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.
From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block of the starter. It is best to connect by soldering, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:
Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully to see if there are any opportunities for short circuit- each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.
Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)
In contact with
You can make a simple air compressor with which you can do painting work or inflate car tires with your own hands from scrap materials. Homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory analogues, and the costs of its production will be minimal.
You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or airbrush from a car pump, improving it a little. Modernizing the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist of adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.
Adaptation of the device to 220 V voltage
To connect the car pump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.
Advice! A power supply from a computer is well suited for this purpose.
You can find out the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. IN in this case The power supply from the PC (see figure above) will be quite sufficient in terms of current and voltage.
So if you insert the plug electrical cord into the PC power supply and turn it on, nothing will happen. This is explained by the fact that the power supply will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the power supply, you need insert the jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one wire that is green and the other wire that is black, as shown in the following photo.
These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.
Since the car pump has plug for connecting to the car cigarette lighter, then you can cut it off and connect the device with the corresponding color wires from the power supply.
But it will be better if you buy car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.
There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red – “+”, black – “-” and yellow – “+”, intended for connecting the LED. Connect the conductors to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).
If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor, capable of not only inflating tires, but also working with an airbrush.
Connecting additional elements
To connect the device to the receiver, you need to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.
This harness includes the following elements.
- Cross, having all outputs with BP1/2. The marking means: “BP” - internal thread, “1/2” - thread diameter in inches.
- Tee, has all outlets with HP1/2 (“HP” - external thread).
- Valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (BP1/2 – BP1/2). Designed to block air movement in both directions. Double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
- . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you need to select check valve, having no plastic parts.
- Straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
- Adapter nipple HP1/2 – HP1/4. Allows you to change from one diameter external thread another.
- Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 – HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
- Transitional coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread of another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
- Tee, having all outputs already with HP1/8 thread.
- Straight coupling VR1/8 – VR1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
- Hose adapter HP1/8.
- Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum permissible level. A moisture separator may not be installed if the unit will be used as a tire inflator. When using the unit for painting, installing a moisture-oil separator is a must.
The above piping diagram assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for venting air to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for inflating tires.
- Adapter nipple HP1/4 – HP1/8.
- Futorka(HP1/4 – BP1/8), is an adapter from a larger external thread diameter to a smaller internal thread diameter.
- Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually monitor the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the main line.
When assembling all elements it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via hose pieces high pressure. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and secured with clamps.
Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without using hoses, if you do not need to display them on the front panel of the unit.
What the compressor piping looks like when assembled according to the diagram is shown in the following photo.
The receiver for an auto compressor can be made from metal pipe large diameter, welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then a regular tubeless wheel from a passenger car can serve as the receiver.
Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, you should take into account the fact that the car pump can operate for no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.
A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher/gas cylinder
Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you need to make a powerful unit, you can take from a Zilov compressor. But first it needs a little tweaking.
You should drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (in assembled form, together with liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.
When the unit is operating, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.
If you take fire extinguisher for receiver, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.
The cast iron lid should be threaded to ¼ inch. It is also necessary to place a rubber gasket under the cast iron lid, if it was not there, and tighten the lid, using fum tape to seal the threads.
The steps to connect all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the one previously considered, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will release excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.
You can also do gas cylinder compressor. But first you need to release the gas from the cylinder, and then tighten the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove any remaining gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually installed under the cylinder gas burner and evaporate all moisture from the container.
A fitting is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. It is necessary to drill a hole in the lower part of the cylinder and weld a fitting to it to drain the condensate. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.
For mounting on the receiver of the engine and compressor block, it is made frame made of metal corner. The mounting bolts are first welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).
Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of about 1.3 -2.2 kW.
You can also make your own compressor for inflating tires. from a chainsaw which cannot be repaired. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the output hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the hole for exhaust gases overlaps. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.
An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the quietest. But you should know that such a device is not different high performance . With its help, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For normal operation Various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.) will not have enough performance of this unit, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.
So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has starting relay with power cord. There are also 3 copper tubes coming out of the device. Two of them are intended for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for oil filling. If you turn on the device a short time, then you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air and which one blows it out.
The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure, consisting of a unit, a receiver and a pressure regulator with a pressure gauge.
Advice! Instead of an outlet filter, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install a moisture-oil separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.
Installed on the inlet tube air filter to prevent dust from getting inside the unit. To automate the air pumping process, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.
DIY high pressure compressor
The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.
As a drive you can take 380 V motor 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the piston group shaft using an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for oil pump plunger type. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf/cm2.
Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with an installed pressure gauge into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. A valve for draining condensate is also installed here. The cylinder is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture-oil separator.
Air exits from the top of the cylinder through a finger fitting. Compressor cooling is aquatic. After 45 min. When the unit operates, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time you can pump 1 8-liter cylinder and 2 4-liter cylinders to 260 atm.