How to make storm drains around the house. Storm drainage in a private house

To ensure that the area does not turn into a swamp after each rain, and the foundation is not washed away by seasonal flows of melt water, it is necessary to ensure drainage excess moisture. Equipped with your own hands will cope with this perfectly. It’s not difficult to make one on your plot or dacha, it’s just important to correctly calculate the quantity necessary materials, view and select the appropriate storm drain design.

Few people doubt that the installation of a storm drain is a necessary process, because melt and rain flows destroy not only the foundation and paths, but also significantly impoverish the soil. In terms of its design, the storm drain represents the following set of elements:

• Roof drainage system. It looks like gutters fixed along the slopes of the roof, serving to collect drainage and diverting flows down through vertical pipes.
• Receivers of precipitation on the ground. Such a storm drain around the house can have many of its own elements: funnels, storm inlets, linear drainage systems, sand traps. Structures are installed for the purpose maximum efficiency receiving precipitation, spot placement under drains is possible. Linear receivers, as shown in the photo, are placed along paths located with a slight slope for gravity flow of rainwater.
• Design of redistribution and discharge of sediments.

The latter is worth talking about separately, precisely because the issue of discharging excess water arises very often and in all its “completeness.” There are three possible solutions:

1. Use streams to water gardens. To do this, all pipes and trays are brought into one large tank, and from there they are sent to the irrigation system using a pump.
2. Install a flow drainage system, as shown in the video, into a centralized sewer system, drainage ditch or natural reservoir, if there is one nearby.
3. In the absence of the need for water for irrigation and a natural reservoir, excess moisture is discharged into the ground. But to do this, you will have to install a certain number of pipes on the site, digging them to a depth below ground level.

Types of storm drains for a private home

There are three types of system:

1. Underground. Structurally, all parts are below ground level. This perfect choice aesthetically pleasing, but it will require a lot of labor, as well as financial investments. A similar system can be set up by completely redoing the plot of land. In this case, you will have to choose a freezing or non-freezing type. The first storm drains do not work during the period of frost, but they are easier to lay; the laying depth does not exceed 1 meter - maximum, but should not be lower than 30 cm minimum. But non-freezing storm drains are laid deeper, about 1.5-1.7 m. Ground work are large, piping systems will be required, but the structure will not interfere with gardening work.
2. Do-it-yourself above-ground storm drainage is much easier to install. These are drainage and drainage gutters/troughs, from where streams of water flow into a reservoir or directly into the garden.
3. Combined storm drain- a design where part of the system is located on top, for example, trays for collecting and diverting flows into a specific reservoir, and part is under the ground (water is sent from the reservoir through a pipeline to be discharged or under the roots of trees). Professionals believe that combined storm drainage is the most best option both in terms of costs and in terms of its aesthetic and practical characteristics.

Important! Before choosing a specific type of storm drain, it is necessary to carefully study the area: the level of water saturation of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the possibility of laying a pipe system, the terrain, the building plan, etc.

But what needs to be done is to divert the water from the house as far as possible. Let this be the simplest option: installing trays on the roof and gutters to drain streams onto the lawns, as shown in the photo, but the foundation will not be washed away in the event of prolonged rains. If there is a large area paved with tiles (a parking lot), you will have to install a storm drain here too, since puddles accumulate in such spaces, which are difficult to deal with. Several water collection points, equipped with point rainwater inlets, will relieve all worries.

Combine or separate?

In a private house or country house, sometimes it is necessary to install several drainage systems: sewer, drainage, storm water. Sometimes all systems run in parallel without touching each other, so the desire to combine a storm drain with any structure, while saving on materials, is quite great. For example, use an existing well. But this is not necessary for the following reasons:

• with a good, prolonged rainfall, water arrives quickly (from 10 m3/hour), so the well will overflow instantly;
• when discharging water into the sewer, such flows will raise the liquid level, which means that it will not be possible to lower the sewer discharges down, all the garbage and masses will remain on the surface;
• after the water level drops, there will definitely be garbage left in the sewer that will have to be cleaned - not the most pleasant pastime;
• when discharged into drainage wells, storm streams with good pressure will flow into the system, quickly overflow it and begin to pour out under the foundation;
• siltation of drainage pipes cannot be avoided. Moreover, it is impossible to clean the entire structure; it will have to be replaced, and this will involve new financial costs.

As a result: there should be a storm drain in a private house or country house separate system, have your own well/reservoir or natural body of water for disposal.

Components and types of storm sewer system

All structural elements must be connected into one system, which can consist of a storm drain:

1. Large well or tank to collect water from the entire site, including water on the roof of buildings. Most often, the well is equipped concrete rings, like water, but only with a bottom. As an option - plastic wells, which are buried to the required depth, anchored and put out trays and gutters to collect flows.

Advice! If there is little rain in your region, then it is ideal as a reservoir regular one will do a plastic barrel buried in the lowest place on the site. It’s convenient to draw water from it, and the tank costs a penny

1. Luke. Sold separately, can be rubber, plastic, metal. Serves to prevent debris from entering the tank. In order for the hatch to sit firmly, the rings of the well must protrude above the ground by at least 15 cm.
2. Point storm water inlets– small containers installed in places of greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under trays on the roof, under drainpipes or at the lowest point of the ground.
3. Linear storm inlets/drainage channels. These are plastic gutters installed in places where precipitation accumulates (along the roof overhang, walkways). This option is suitable if, during the construction of the blind area around the house, they forgot to lay a pipeline for water drainage.

Important! The receivers are taken outside the blind area, the second end of the trays is connected to the receiver - this The best way remove the water and not disturb the blind area

1. A sand trap is a structure where sand settles. As a rule, plastic casings are used, installed in a row on sections of the pipeline. Sand traps require cleaning, but this is easier than cleaning the entire system.
2. Lattices. To ensure gravity flow of water, the holes in the grates must be large. There are cast iron, steel, aluminum models.
3. Pipes for storm drains It is better to choose polyethylene ones. Smooth walls will not accumulate sediment, do not allow microorganisms to get caught, and have good throughput and quite durable.

Important! The diameter of stormwater pipes depends on the power and saturation of precipitation and the branching of the network. Minimum diameter the figure is considered to be 150 mm, the slope level should not be less than 3% (3 cm for each meter of pipeline)

1. Inspection wells – plastic structures, mounted throughout the system and intended for cleaning the pipeline.

A storm drain in a country house or country plot may not contain all the elements, but they can be used to build a sewer system to drain flows of any complexity and configuration.

Construction order and stages

First you need to think through the project. If you don’t want to turn to the services of professionals, you can do all the constructive and schematic work yourself in one of the programs or even on a piece of paper. This makes it possible to more accurately understand and correct location all elements. Afterwards you will have to purchase materials and then begin work.

How to make a storm drain with your own hands correctly:

1. Install roof trays and drainage system.

Important! Installation of a storm drain requires lifting the ground, so it is best to carry out the work process simultaneously with the arrangement of drainage and sewer systems, which are also then completed by laying paths and blind areas

1. Dig trenches for the pipeline as shown in the video. The depth of the trenches must exceed the size required for pipes by at least 15 cm. Lay a crushed stone cushion at the bottom of the pits, and only then the pipes. Crushed stone will help neutralize the forces of heaving, always remaining motionless. This quality helps all devices installed in crushed stone to feel almost no stress.
2. Install rainwater inlets, concrete the structures and lay the finishing coating.
3. Connect the pipeline to a reservoir or lead the end into a river or lake to discharge water.

These are the main steps, but as shown in the video, you will need to install trays along the paths and linear sewers to remove flows.

You can do without complex structures, even if rain is not a rare occurrence in your region. If the soil absorbency is good, it is enough to equip roof trays and lead them with their end into a vertical pipe. At the bottom of the pipe, install a reservoir (barrel) where the water will accumulate. And then use the liquid for irrigation and other technical needs. If the soil absorbency is low, add a point rain inlet at the lowest point of the site and dig a barrel there; gutters for runoff from paths and roofs also go into the barrel. And that’s it, the storm drain is ready. Options for arranging structures are in the video, and you can do it yourself the simplest system It will not be difficult even for a novice home craftsman.

Sometimes for a summer resident, long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real natural disaster. As a result of a prolonged summer rain, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake may form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and draining it from the territory is needed. If you build a storm drain with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be minimal.

The article presented for review describes in detail the principle of constructing an atmospheric water drainage system and describes the components of the structure. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, organizing a storm drain will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm sewer- specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, there must be primary cleaning in the storm drain.

The system may differ in the volume of water it is able to accept, design, duration of effective functioning.

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High-quality storm drainage is important system private house. It ensures rapid drainage of melt or rain water, eliminating their accumulation in the ground around the building. The presence of such a system prevents premature destruction of the foundation and the formation of puddles in the yard. There are both budget and more expensive and reliable options for storm drainage. You can install each of them yourself.

Features of storm sewer installation

The production of a storm drain, as in the photo, must begin with drawing up drawings, determining the optimal type of system, and selecting its components. The most simple solution is the installation of ground gutters made of concrete, which will drain precipitation outside the area being developed. This system is optimal for small country houses.

Storm drainage can be laid with your own hands and underground or have combined type(ground + underground). It is optimal to carry out work on the installation of such systems immediately after the construction of a house or when arranging a yard adjacent to the building. Naturally, removing asphalt or tiles to make a storm drain is inconvenient: the procedure will take too much time and lead to a significant waste of money.

Structure of storm drainage in a private house

The storm drainage system created at the dacha or near a private house should consist of a roof drain and pipes/gutters on the territory. Therefore, the main elements of the system include:

• gutters, caps and fastenings;
• funnels, drainpipes, pipe holders;
• water inlets (under the grate on the porch, under the drainpipes);
• trays, gutters;
• sand traps, sewer pipes, fittings.

For underground installation it is recommended to use metal-plastic pipes: They have a long service life, are reliable and affordable. Downpipes are usually made of steel and covered protective paint. Sand traps, trays and gutters can be made of concrete, plastic, steel.

How to make a storm drain without errors?

First of all, the owner must draw up detailed diagram, which will indicate the locations of the elements. Additionally, you need to calculate the required number of pipes, sand traps, and water inlets. Next, install the storm drain according to the following instructions:

• Dig trenches for storm water inlets, sand traps and pipes.
• Prepare a cushion of crushed stone, taking into account the slope of the pipes towards the collector or other place of water drainage.
• Lay geotextiles along the trenches to protect pipes from freezing.
• Install rainwater inlets, lay pipes, buried gutters. Check the quality of the connection of the elements.
• Wrap the pipes in geotextile. Fill the trenches with crushed stone (excluding it from getting into storm water inlets, sand traps and gutters).
• Place sand/earth on top of the crushed stone above the pipes. Install gratings over rain inlets and gutters to prevent debris from entering the compartments. Connect outlet pipe to the collector or simply take it outside the site.

In order for the finished system to cope with the assigned tasks, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the region when choosing elements. For areas where rain is a common occurrence throughout the year, it is recommended to use drainage components with increased dimensions. Otherwise, problems with water drainage may occur.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn or washed out beds, healthy plants and perfect smooth paths– the result of competent planning and installation surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without significant expenses, but it is possible if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water systems even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not backfilled. While construction is underway and there is equipment on site, it is advisable to order trench digging so as not to dig manually and carry dirt into the landscaped area. Protection from melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

• Surface linear storm drainage – collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

• Storm drainage is the removal of water flowing down drainpipes.

• Point drainage – drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

The storm sewer network is equipped with a connection to the public main if there is a collector or city storm drain pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located at a large distance, the conclusion local system drainage and storm sewerage are organized in 2 ways: on a filtration field (an area covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or into a receiving tank (drainage well, pond, roadside ditch). Drainage from a private storm drain into a common household one sewer system prohibited.

System elements:

• Drainage gutters, which are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
• Drainpipes.
• Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

• External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, connecting the pipe to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drainage point.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The site surface drainage system consists of point and linear outlet branches connected into one network with outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is arranged in the form of open channels dug at a slope to the drainage point. Marking is carried out only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catch basins and storm trenches

• Along the perimeter of the site.

• On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on a slope

• Around the paths.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area along the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, and steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of drainpipes (in areas where there is no storm drain). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into a discharge pipe of a common surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine stormwater with a drainage network?

Two separate networks: drainage and stormwater

Optimal scheme drainage of the area with the house - separate drainage networks and storm drains around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewerage: during heavy rainfalls or rapid melting of snow, one pipe may not cope and overflow will occur through the water intakes.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug for a drainage outlet from a point drainage and sewer pipes are used rather than perforated pipes. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. Lay sealed sewer pipe into a channel with drainage backfill is prohibited: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the useful volume of the ditch and create difficulties when cleaning the trench.

General drainage of point drainage and storm water into a filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if it is not possible to tie into a city highway. Rainwater can be used for irrigation or filling artificial reservoirs. The receiver is set to plastic tanks, or they make wells without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage in and around a country house

Storm drainage is surface system, which does not require volumetric earthworks and digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple wiring with your own hands. Before starting work, the places where lines and drainage points must be constructed are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is insufficient during heavy rainfall and after the snow begins to melt. An area with clayey, supersaturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface also requires the installation of branched linear storm drainage.

For preliminary calculations the amount of materials needed, it is worth drawing a diagram of the canals on the site plan.

Storm drainage installation plan

Materials: what you will need to install a storm drainage network

List of materials needed for independent device storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

• Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Manufacturing materials – plastic, polymer concrete mixture, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the grates: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. This tray can withstand loads of up to 25 tons. Installed in places of high loads: in courtyards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective grilles are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with intense load, decorative plastic - for lawns and gardens.

• Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials, which the manufacturer recommends to use when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside plastic trays.
• Sand catchers. Separately, products are purchased for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe outlet

• Storm water inlets. They use mainly ready-made plastic containers. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection to the outlet. Plastic receivers are easily installed on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

• Geotextiles. Cloth for drainage backfill channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic water-permeable fabric

1. Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and coarse.
2. Mortar for pouring the base under gutters and water inlets.
3. Drainage wells. Ready-made plastic or large-diameter corrugated pipes.

Factory PVC drainage wells

• Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
• Construction tool. You will need rough boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and fishing line for marking, shovels, picks, and a building level.

Installation of point water intakes

Point water inlets are stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the hole for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a hole, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on the sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in fresh solution (if necessary, permanent fixation).

On concrete base install the rainwater inlet so that the container lid is flush with the blind area. If installation is carried out before laying decorative covering, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Correct installation receiver

The side gaps are filled with crushed stone or filled with concrete. Before backfilling, a fitting is connected to the outlet to drain the pipe. Install the internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Stormwater drainage along the perimeter of the building can be planned in the form of a ring closed at the collection point, without inspection wells. Demountable sand traps are provided for cleaning. Device Rules linear system:

• The distance from the edge of the foundation should be 50 cm. It is optimal to plan the channels along the edge of the paths or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a height reserve for paving slabs

• The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with decorative cover with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

• Width – up to 50 cm.

To ensure that the installed gutters do not move or deform over time, several rules must be followed during excavation work. The bottom and walls must be smooth and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding must be made.

Plastic tray mounted on factory stand

To prevent the tray (especially a plastic one) from becoming deformed, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the solution

Gutters are installed in the prepared trenches. The structures are connected to each other with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and end of the line) are covered with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in drainage line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are filled with crushed stone or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - deep trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, discharge pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budget storm drainage of the site: building open channels

Take away rainwater With garden paths, flower beds and along the fence can be economical open method. Instead of ready-made trays, backfill storm drainage channels are installed. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth – from 50 cm, width – from 50 – 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correctness of the slope. For one meter – up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. The entire width of the trench is filled with crushed stone in a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Fold the edges of the fabric overlapping.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

The drainage clip is covered on top decorative material: river pebbles, multi-colored crumbs, stones. Dry streams - aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

The drainage well is the connection point of the system. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on a crushed stone bed. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates into the ground.

Drainage well with backfill bottom

If installing a filter well is not possible, then the liquid is drained from the drainage tank into a common storm main or taken outside the site - into a natural reservoir or ditch. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or receiving tank dug into the area.

Video: installation of storm drains around the house

Stormwater and linear open drain– only the superficial part of the foundation protection. Along the perimeter of buildings at different depths it is necessary to create 3 - 4 types drainage systems. Choosing a method of organization and technical parameters networks depends on the composition of the soil and the depth of the foundation. It’s not worth making deep drainage networks yourself. Calculations should be carried out by specialists, and it is better to install trench branches immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, deep reservoir drainage is installed. Not only the ability of the system to drain large quantities of water, but also the durability of the foundation depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

Today many people who have own houses decide to make a storm drain. It is worth saying right away that the work process itself is complex. The first difficulty lies in creating the project and the need to carry out calculations. In this article we will tell you how to make a storm drain yourself.

Why do you need a storm drain?

We can say that storm drainage simultaneously helps solve two problems:

1. Implements reliable protection foundation and walls of the house from water ingress, erosion, due to rain or melting snow.
2. Prevents the appearance of puddles on the site, site, parking lot and paths.

In a word, storm drainage is necessary in order to increase the comfort of the site, as well as extend the life of existing buildings.

Note! The construction of storm drains is similar in structure to the construction of internal and external sewers. If you did this system yourself, then you can do this job!

Here's what's included standard set storm drains:

• Funnels for receiving water.
• Trays for collecting water.
• Pipes.
• Collector.

We will write in more detail about their use and installation below, and now it’s time to start preparing a storm sewer project and making the necessary calculations.

Design and preliminary calculations

Implementation of the plan without necessary calculations- This is money thrown away. Why? The fact is that if the constructed storm sewer cannot cope with its main functions, then there is no point in starting work. Moreover, if you do too much big system storm drains, then this will require large quantity finance. For this reason, first of all, it is necessary to calculate all costs.

Necessary information for accurate calculations:

• Information about the average amount of precipitation that was recorded in your area by meteorologists. This information can be obtained from SNIP.
• If you plan to drain melt water, then information is needed on the thickness of the snow cover and, accordingly, the frequency of rains.
• Drainage area. If a point storm drain is selected, then an exact roof area is required. In this case, it is important to know not only its magnitude, but its size in accordance with the projection in the plane. If a linear storm drain is chosen, then you need to know the area of ​​the entire territory that it will serve.
• Physico-chemical characteristics of soil.
• The location and presence of all communications that pass underground.

All this information is necessary to make the following calculations of the volume of water discharged. When all the information is in your hands, calculations are carried out using the following formula:

Here is the correction factor used in this formula:

• 0.4 – for crushed stone covering.
• 0.85 – for a concreted area.
• 0.95 – for a paved area.
• 1.0 – for roofs.

Based on the obtained value, the required pipe diameter is selected exclusively according to the current SNIP table.

As for the project, you should consider the option of making rainwater drainage. In most cases, this will be influenced by the nature of your area. It is necessary to consider a method for draining water towards the collector. If on your territory it is not possible to make a sufficient slope towards the drainage of water, then it is necessary to provide pump equipment. Please note that you need to draw up a project both for the external storm sewer, which will be located on the roof, and for underground system. Now let's look at the location of the storm drain on the roof.

We begin installation with a storm drain on the roof

On the roof, the equipment is installed along the gutter, which will collect all the water from the roof. If your budget allows, you can buy gutters ready-made with a set of fasteners. If not, then you can do it on our own. For example, sawing a pipe in half lengthwise. Pipes for guttering can be polymer, asbestos or steel. If your area experiences strong winds and rainfall, then it is best to install metal gutters.

To determine the size of the gutter, you need to carry out calculations in accordance with SNIP. To drain water and prevent clogging of drainpipes, it is recommended to install special funnels. Each funnel is additionally equipped with a protective grille or a special cap.

Note! If your roof is pitched, it is recommended to use caps. At flat roof It is better to use grates.

During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the connection of the funnel to the roof is airtight. For this purpose, the use of bolts will not be sufficient. Additionally, you can use mastic or waterproofing material. There is also a danger of turbulence. To prevent them, a jet straightener is used. So, from the funnel along the entire wall, a pipe is laid down, where the water enters the rainwater inlet.

Classification for wastewater collection

The storm sewer system is divided into two methods of water collection: point and linear.

Point storm drainage system. This system includes rainwater inlets. They are mounted under the gutters of external and internal drains. Each individual receiver underground is connected into a common backbone. The storm water inlet is equipped with a grate and a sand trap. This prevents debris, plant debris and other suspended soil particles from entering the line.

Linear storm drainage system. In this case, the storm drain is a network of channels that are laid underground or slightly deepened in a trench. Those trays that are laid using the open method are additionally equipped with a sand trap and are also equipped with gratings. A linear storm drain differs from a point drain in that it collects water not only from the roof, but also from the area adjacent to the house. This is the system that is used for large areas.

So, based on the size of the surrounding area, you need to decide on one type of system. Although this is a minor factor that must be taken into account when choosing a water collection method. Already at this stage, preparatory work should be carried out.

Channel laying depth

Trays should be laid at the depth required in your area. For example, this could be a depth of 300 mm. If the pipeline or open trays are large enough, then they will need to be laid at a depth of 500 mm. Larger channels will need to be deepened to 700 mm.

Note! If you already have drainage, then the storm drain should be laid exclusively above it.

If you want to reduce labor costs, then you shouldn't go too deep into the ground. Moreover, you should not install the collector below the ground freezing level. Accordingly, if the collector is raised as high as possible, then the channels will not need to be deepened too much. To the collector in winter time not frozen it can be insulated thermal insulation material. Accordingly, if you do storm drainage, then you will have to dig significantly less trenches. At the same time, this permission should not be abused. The channels must have a sufficient slope to allow water to drain well. Therefore, the collector will in any case be located below the rainwater inlet. It is in this case that a project will come in handy, which will allow you to accurately calculate the required slope of the highway.

Slope norms and standards

If we are guided by GOST regulations, then a pipe with a diameter of 150 Ø mm should have a slope of 0.008 mm/m. pipe 200Ø angle – 0.007 mm/m. Based on the characteristics of a particular area, this slope may vary slightly.

Please note that in the area of ​​the rain inlet optimal slope 0.02. If there is insufficient slope in this area, then there is a risk that the system will not cope with the heavy flow of water. Moreover, near the sand trap, the flow speed should be lower, because suspended particles should have time to settle. Therefore, near this device, the angle of inclination should be as small as possible.

Ground mounting

At the first stage installation work you have installed a storm drain on the roof and connected gutters to the storm inlet. Work on the ground should begin with the installation of a rain inlet or, as they are called, water inlet funnels. It is important to install them directly under drainpipe. Each drainage funnel tied into one system. For this reason, you can do it yourself required amount holes for pipes. Using an elbow, the pipes are connected to the rainwater inlet.

Afterwards it is necessary to prepare trenches for laying trays and pipes. Their installation must be carried out on a sand cushion 100 mm thick. As mentioned above, when laying pipes, you must strictly monitor the slope. If you don’t do this, then there will be no sense in the money and work spent. During the installation process, you will additionally need the following elements:

• Stub. It will prevent water from flowing back in case the pipe is overfilled.
• Sand trap. It will keep trays and pipes clean.
• Siphon. This item will prevent penetration unpleasant odors from the sewer system.

To significantly reduce the volume earthworks, a drainage pipe and a storm drain can be laid simultaneously in one trench. However, you should not combine these two different directions. As mentioned above, drainage pipe will be located below, and a storm sewer may run above it.

Note! The slope of the entire system will always be directed towards the collector or to the place where the storm sewer is discharged.

Accordingly, the entire storm sewer pipe system must be connected into one route, which will be directed to the collector. It is very important that the collector itself is equipped with inspection rings. This will allow you to timely check the level of accumulated water, as well as clear it of possible debris. When the entire system of pipes and trays is laid, all that remains is to cover it with durable gratings made of reinforced concrete or metal.

After this, it is necessary to check the entire storm sewer system for operability. To do this, you need to fill a bucket of water into each rainwater inlet. Then check to see if the water flows well. It is also important to check the system for leaks. If one is found, it should be eliminated by covering it with sealant. If the whole system works perfectly, then you just need to fill the trench. In this case, the grate can be covered with cellophane so as not to cover the tray with soil.

Of course, the assembled storm sewer will work reliably without failures or any special problems, if you follow some rules regarding its operation.

It's up to you!

So, we have reviewed the basic recommendations and rules for installing storm sewers. Of course, its presence at every site is simply necessary. Remember, you are quite capable of installing storm drains yourself, without the help of professionals. To do this, you will need to thoroughly understand the essence of the matter and you will succeed.

Scheme of storm sewerage with drainage elements

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