How to make a multi-stage gauss gun. Powerful DIY gauss cannon

There are standard stages of growth that every true radio amateur goes through: flasher, tweeter, power supply, amplifier, and so on. Somewhere in the beginning there were all sorts of shockers, Teslas and Gaussians. But in my case, I decided to assemble a Gauss gun already when other normal people had been soldering oscilloscopes and Arduinos for a long time. I guess I didn't play enough when I was a kid :-)

In short, I spent 3 days on the forums, picked up the theory of electromagnetic projectile weapons, collected voltage converter circuits for charging capacitors, and got down to business.

Different inverter circuits for Gauss

Here are a few standard schemes, allowing you to get the necessary 400 from 5-12 volt batteries to charge the capacitor, which, when discharged to the coil, will create a powerful magnetic field that pushes the projectile. This will make the Gauss portable - regardless of a 220 V outlet. Since there were only 4.2 volt batteries on hand, I settled on the lowest voltage DC-DC inverter circuit.

Here the turns have 5 PEL-0.8 primary windings and 300 PEL-0.2 secondary windings. For assembly I prepared a beautiful transformer from an ATX power supply unit, which unfortunately did not work...

The circuit started with only a 20mm ferrite ring from a Chinese electronic transformer. I just wound up the feedback windings and everything worked even from 1 volt! Read more. True, further experiments were not encouraging: no matter how hard I tried to wind different coils on the tubes, there was no point. Someone talked about 2 mm plywood shot through, but this is not my case...

Unfortunately this is not mine))

And after I saw the powerful ones, I changed my plans altogether, and so as not to lose the case, cut from a plastic cable channel with a handle based on a nickel-plated furniture leg, I decided to put a stun gun there from Chinese lantern, the flashlight itself and the laser sight from the red pointer. This is the vinaigrette.

The shocker was in an LED flashlight and has not worked for a long time - nickel-cadmium batteries stopped accumulating current. Therefore, I stuffed all this stuffing into a common housing, bringing out the buttons and control switches.

The result was a shocker-flashlight with a laser sight, in the form of a futuristic blaster. Gave it to my son - he runs and shoots.

Later, in the free space I’ll put a voice recording board, ordered from Ali for $1.50, capable of recording a musical fragment such as a laser shot, sounds of battle, etc. But that’s already

Possess a weapon that, even in computer games ah can only be found in a mad scientist's laboratory or near a time portal to the future - that's cool. Watching how people indifferent to technology involuntarily fix their gaze on the device, and avid gamers hastily pick up a jaw from the floor - it’s worth spending a day on assembly for this DIY Gauss guns.

As usual, we decided to start with the simplest design - single coil induction gun. Experiments with multi-stage acceleration of a projectile were left to experienced electronics engineers who were able to build a complex switching system using powerful thyristors and fine-tune the moments of sequential activation of the coils. Instead, we focused on the ability to create a dish using widely available ingredients.

So, to build a Gauss cannon, first of all you have to go shopping. In the radio shop for homemade products need to buy several capacitors with tension 350–400 V and total capacity 1000–2000 microfarads, enameled copper wire diameter 0.8 mm, battery compartments For « Crowns"and two 1.5 volt C batteries, toggle switch and button. Let's take five in photo products disposable cameras Kodak, in auto parts - the simplest four-pin relay from “Zhiguli”, in “products” - a pack straws For cocktails, and in “toys” - a plastic pistol, machine gun, shotgun, shotgun or any other gun that you want to turn into a weapon of the future.

Let's keep talking...

The main power element of our gun is inductor. With its manufacture it is worth starting assembling the weapon. Take a length of straw 30 mm and two big ones washers(plastic or cardboard), assemble them into a bobbin using a screw and nut. Start winding the enameled wire around it carefully, turn to turn (if large diameter wires are quite simple). Be careful not to allow sharp bends in the wire or damage the insulation. After finishing the first layer, fill it superglue and start winding the next one. Do this with each layer. All you need to do is reel 12 layers. Then you can disassemble the reel, remove the washers and put the reel on a long straw, which will serve as a barrel. One end of the straw should be plugged. It is easy to check the finished coil by connecting it to 9 volt battery: If it holds a paper clip suspended, then you have succeeded. You can insert a straw into the coil and test it as a solenoid: it should actively draw a piece of paper clip into itself, and when connected pulsed, even throw it out of the barrel at 20–30 cm.

Dissecting values

It is perfectly suited for the formation of a powerful electrical impulse (in this opinion we agree with the creators of the most powerful laboratory railguns). Capacitors are good not only for their high energy capacity, but also for their ability to release all the energy within a very short time, before the projectile reaches the center of the coil. However, capacitors need to be charged somehow. Fortunately, the charger we need is available in any camera: a capacitor is used there to generate a high-voltage pulse for the ignition electrode of the flash. Disposable cameras are best for us, because the capacitor and “charging” are the only electrical components they have, which means getting the charging circuit out of them is as easy as shelling pears.

Disassembling a disposable camera is the stage at which you should begin to develop caution. When opening the case, try do not touch the elements of the electrical circuit: the capacitor can retain its charge for a long time. Having gained access to the capacitor, the first thing to do is close its terminals with a screwdriver with a dielectric handle . Only after this can you touch the board without fear of getting an electric shock. Remove the battery brackets from the charging circuit, unsolder the capacitor, and the jumper to the contacts of the charging button - we will no longer need it. Prepare the minimum in this way five charging boards. Pay attention to the location of the conductive tracks on the board: you can connect to the same circuit elements in different places.

Setting priorities

Selecting the capacitor capacity is a matter of compromise between the energy of the shot and the charging time of the gun. We settled on four capacitors 470 microfarads (400 V), connected in parallel. Before each shot, we spend approximately minutes We are waiting for the signal from the LEDs on the charging circuits, indicating that the voltage in the capacitors has reached the required level 330 V. You can speed up the charging process by connecting several 3-volt battery compartments in parallel to the charging circuits. However, it is worth keeping in mind that powerful “C” batteries have excessive current for weak camera circuits. To prevent the transistors on the boards from burning out, each 3-volt assembly should have 3–5 charging circuits connected in parallel. On our gun, only one battery compartment is connected to the “chargers”. All others serve as spare stores.

Defining safety zones

We would not advise anyone to hold a button under their finger that discharges a battery of 400-volt capacitors. To control the descent it is better to install relay. Its control circuit is connected to a 9-volt battery through the shutter button, and the control circuit is connected to the circuit between the coil and the capacitors. A schematic diagram will help you assemble the gun correctly. When assembling a high-voltage circuit, use a wire with a cross-section of at least millimeters, any thin wires are suitable for the charging and control circuits. When experimenting with the circuit, remember: capacitors may have residual charge. Discharge by short circuit before touching them.

Artem

Let's sum it up

The shooting process looks like this:

turn on the power switch;
wait for the LEDs to glow brightly;
lower the projectile into the barrel so that it is slightly behind the coil;
turn off the power so that when firing, the batteries do not take energy from themselves; take aim and press the shutter button.

The result largely depends on the mass of the projectile.

Be careful, the weapon is real danger.

The scope of application of thermal electric guns is quite wide. Industrial units used for heating industrial, warehouse and even residential premises. And in small areas you can get by with homemade design a heat generator that is quite capable of heating a garage or country house.

If made electric heat gun with your own hands, it will cost literally pennies. However, in production useful homemade product rules must be followed. Only in this case will the device serve no worse than the factory product.

We will tell you how to properly make an electric gun. From the article we have proposed, you will learn what materials and components will be required to assemble the unit. Our advice will help in the manufacture of efficient and economical equipment.

Unlike other types of heat guns, an electrical device can be made by almost any home craftsman familiar with the basics of electronics.

Although the efficiency of an electric gun is much lower than diesel or, it does not emit combustion products harmful to health and can be installed in any room - a residential building, a greenhouse, outbuildings.

The power of industrial guns varies from 2 to 45 kW, and the number heating elements they can contain up to 15 pieces

Let's look at how an electric unit works.

Design and principle of operation of the heat generator

Any electric gun consists of three main components: a housing, an electric motor with a fan and a heating element. The varieties of this type of device are described in detail, devoted to the classification and principles of operation of heat guns.

Additionally, the device can be equipped with any “bonuses” from the factory units - speed switch, heat regulator, room thermostat, housing heating sensor, engine protection and other elements, but they increase not only comfort and safety during operation, but also the cost of the homemade product.

The rate of heating of air throughout the entire volume of the room depends on the number and power of heating elements - the larger their area, the more active heat transfer will occur

An electric gun works like this:

when connected to the network, the heating element converts electric current into thermal energy, due to which it heats itself up;
the electric motor drives the impeller blades;
the fan forces air from the room inside the case;
the cold air flow comes into contact with the surface of the heating element, heats up and, forced by the fan, is removed from the “barrel” of the gun.

If the appliance is equipped with a thermostatic element, it will stop the heater when the programmed temperature is reached. In primitive devices you will have to control the heating yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade guns

The main advantage of a thermal electric generator is the ability to use it in any room where there is a network of at least 220 W.

Such devices, even in homemade versions, are mobile, weigh little and are quite capable of heating an area of up to 50 m2 (theoretically, more is possible, but with devices high power It’s better not to experiment and buy a ready-made unit, and a gun from 5 kW will already require connection to a three-phase network).

The performance characteristics of the device must correspond to the heated area. On average, for every 10 m2 you will need 1 kW, but much depends on the room itself - building materials, quality of glazing and presence of insulation

Pros of a homemade electric gun:

Saving money– factory units are not cheap, and a heating device can be assembled with a minimum of purchased parts or even entirely from improvised means, removing the missing elements from old devices.
Safety– of all the homemade heat generators, the electric device is the easiest to operate, since it does not require a connection to gas or refueling with flammable fuel. With proper assembly of the electrical circuit, the risk of spontaneous combustion for such guns is minimal.
Fast room heating– the operation of a heat gun is much more efficient than other options for homemade electric heaters, for example, fireplaces or oil radiators.

Among the disadvantages we can note high consumption electricity (the amount depends on the power of the engine and heating element). In addition, the operation of the fan is quite noisy, and the larger the wingspan and rotation speed, the stronger the noise produced will be.

Well, any drawback of a homemade electrical device is the likelihood of an error during assembly or connection, which can cause a short circuit in the network, electric shock and spontaneous combustion of the device.

Electric gun manufacturing options

The most difficult stage when assembling a device is to draw up the correct electrical circuit diagram for connecting the device to the network. Therefore, we suggest using already ready-made example, taking it as the basis for a future heat gun. As can be seen in the diagram, the toggle switch and thermostats must be connected in series, and the circuit must be closed on the heating element and the electric motor with the fan.

The thermostat is responsible for the heating level of the heating element and automatically disconnecting the circuit when the desired temperature in the room is reached, and if you exclude it from the circuit, you will have to independently monitor the equipment to avoid overheating

Let's look at the manufacturing features of two simple options.

A simple fan heater with a ready-made heating element

For the body of the future gun, you can select a piece of metal or asbestos-cement pipe of a suitable diameter. It is best to adjust the size according to the span of the fan “wings”, because it should overlap one of the ends of the device.

If desired, the heat generator can be made from a small metal tank, a galvanized bucket, an old saucepan or a waste gas cylinder, the main thing is that the walls of the “casing” are not thin.

The power of the fan for a heat gun is not decisive, because the speed of heating the air depends solely on the heating element, and the impeller only disperses the warm flow throughout the room, so you can safely take a fragment from a household hood or vacuum cleaner

As for the heating element, you can remove this element from a used tile or boiler, or purchase it in a store - now it’s not a problem to find a heater of any shape. If you buy ready-made, the best option there will be a finned part specifically designed to quickly warm up the moving air flow.

The power of the heating element should be stamped on its body or stated in the accompanying documentation, but if it is an old device, you can measure its resistance with a multimeter and determine the power using the above formula

In addition to the three main elements (housing, motor and heating element), for work you will need a three-core cable, bolts, and an RCD that disconnects the network in a dangerous situation.

Step-by-step work plan:

Definition required power for a future electric gun. As a starting point, you can take the common formula, according to which 1 kW is required per 10 m2 (with a ceiling height of 2.5-3 m). And if the room is not insulated, is located in the basement or has a large glass area, feel free to add another 20-30% to the data obtained. But if the required power exceeds 2.5-3 kW, think about whether your wiring can withstand such a load.
Case manufacturing. If this a metal sheet– it needs to be bent and fixed in shape by welding, hoops or rivets. For a bucket, cylinder or pan, saw off the bottom and lid. In short, the result should be a cylindrical or rectangular shape with two open holes at the ends.
Checking the resistance of the heating element and comparing it with the calculated one. If necessary, you can add 1-2 more elements by connecting them in series, or increase the power by shortening the element.
Mounting the electric motor with fan(you can use standard fasteners). The impeller should close the gap as tightly as possible, but at the same time rotate freely. The wires are connected to the network through a 6A fuse and are equipped with a switch.
Securing the heating element inside the pipe(approximately in the center) using rivets or plates made of refractory materials. The distance should be far enough away from the fan so as not to overheat the electric motor. The wires are led out of the housing and are also connected to the network, but through a 25A fuse.

After checking the insulation of all connections, you can make trial run device. If everything is assembled correctly, when you plug the plug into the socket, a fan will begin to rotate at one end of the gun, and warm air, gradually increasing in temperature.

Device with nichrome heater

If you don’t have an old one in your home craftsman’s arsenal household appliance, from where you can remove the heating element, but for some reason you don’t want to buy a ready-made heater, you can make it yourself from a nichrome spiral.

In addition to low cost, such an element has an important advantage over factory copies - the ability to independently adjust right size according to the housing format and increase the heating speed to a safe maximum.

Devices with an open spiral are considered a fire hazard by default, so making a heating element yourself requires good electrical skills

For homemade products, you will need to buy nichrome wire with a suitable diameter and resistance parameter. And this depends on the planned power of your device (for household devices and 220 V network it is advisable not to exceed 5 kW).

For example, for a gun up to 2 kW you will need wire with a resistance of 27-30 ohm, which must be wound on a ceramic rod or other heat-resistant material (in extreme cases, you can break off a plate of refractory brick).

The size of the spiral can be determined experimentally by selecting the number of turns according to the degree of heating of the wire, but it is much easier to use the table, where D is the diameter of the rod on which the wire of length L will be wound

Another option is to make a homemade heating element from a small piece of asbestos-cement pipe, placing a rolled spiral from the same inside nichrome wire. The coils can be arranged horizontally and vertically to cover a larger area.

Homemade heating element for 1.6 kW from six spiral fragments that almost completely block the lumen of the pipe, which ensures rapid heating of the air flow

The assembly of the structure is carried out by analogy with the instructions described above, so we will not repeat the same points, but will only consider the nuances of connecting a homemade heating element:

To keep the spiral in the correct shape, make special notches on the rod for each turn. The wire must be wound tightly enough, but always in one layer.
The ends of the wire must be connected to electrical wires using bolted connections and insulated.
The wires brought out through the holes drilled in the housing must be connected to the network through a 25A fuse.

A significant drawback of such a homemade product, in addition to energy consumption and other disadvantages of electric guns, is the unpleasant burnt smell that arises from the combustion of dust on an open coil.

Rules for safe work homemade gun practically do not differ from the operation of other electrical appliances: you must avoid tipping the device over and getting moisture inside it, do not touch the heated body and do not leave the unit working unattended.

From important features– before turning off, you must first stop the operation of the heating element, let the fan run idle for a few minutes and only then pull out the plug from the power supply.

Homemade heat guns without thermostats are not intended for long work– they can cause a short circuit in the network or ignite from a hot coil; in addition, electrical appliances dry out the air, so it is recommended to ventilate the room more often

Tips for assembling homemade products:

The body for any type of electric gun is best made of metal with a wall thickness of at least 1 mm or asbestos cement. Although you can buy a thermoplastic container of suitable size, such a “casing” can make unpleasant odors when heated, and will require strict control over the temperature of the coil.
The annoying noise from the operation of the impeller can be reduced if relatively quiet car fans are used for the design.
To prevent the hot surface of the housing from causing a fire, it can be installed on a frame made of reinforcement, an asbestos-cement stand, or a heat-absorbing coating can be applied.
The power supply to the fan and heating element is always carried out separately.
Monitor the quality of the insulation of all wires protruding beyond the gun body.

Grounding the metal body of the device will help prevent accidental electric shock.

And the last piece of advice - if your knowledge of electrical equipment is at the level of an amateur beginner, then before connecting homemade apparatus to the network, consult with a master who will evaluate the performance and safety of your creation with a professional eye.

He will introduce you to the criteria for choosing a factory-made electric fan heater. If you doubt your own abilities or you don’t have time to assemble a homemade product, read the material we recommend.

Video #3. 2 kW heat gun from an old fire extinguisher:

As you can see, making an electric gun with your own hands is really not difficult. But if you are not confident in your skills in working with the electrical part, it is better to consult an experienced electrician or buy a ready-made device.

If you have recommendations or have any questions while reading the material, leave posts in the block below. Please comment on the material we present and post photos on the topic. Perhaps your advice will be useful to site visitors.

We present the electromagnetic gun circuit based on the NE555 timer and the 4017B chip.

The operating principle of an electromagnetic (Gauss) gun is based on the rapid sequential actuation of electromagnets L1-L4, each of which creates an additional force that accelerates the metal charge. The NE555 timer sends pulses with a period of approximately 10 ms to the 4017 chip, the pulse frequency is signaled by LED D1.

When you press the PB1 button, microcircuit IC2 with the same interval sequentially opens transistors TR1 to TR4, in the collector circuit of which electromagnets L1-L4 are included.

To make these electromagnets we need copper tube 25 cm long and 3 mm in diameter. Each coil contains 500 turns of 0.315mm enamel coated wire. The coils must be made in such a way that they can move freely. The projectile is a piece of nail 3 cm long and 2 mm in diameter.

The gun can be powered either from a 25 V battery or from an AC mains.

By changing the position of the electromagnets we achieve the best effect; from the figure above it can be seen that the interval between each coil increases - this is due to the increase in the speed of the projectile.

This is, of course, not a real Gauss gun, but a working prototype, on the basis of which it is possible, by strengthening the circuit, to assemble a more powerful Gauss gun.

Other types of electromagnetic weapons.

In addition to magnetic mass accelerators, there are many other types of weapons that use electromagnetic energy to operate. Let's look at the most famous and common types.

Electromagnetic mass accelerators.

In addition to “Gauss guns”, there are at least 2 more types of mass accelerators - induction mass accelerators (Thompson coil) and rail mass accelerators, also known as “rail guns”.

The operation of an induction mass accelerator is based on the principle electromagnetic induction. A rapidly increasing electric current is created in a flat winding, which causes an alternating magnetic field in the space around it. A ferrite core is inserted into the winding, on the free end of which a ring of conductive material is put on. Under the influence of an alternating magnetic flux penetrating the ring, an electric current arises in it, creating a magnetic field in the opposite direction relative to the field of the winding. With its field, the ring begins to push away from the field of the winding and accelerates, flying off the free end of the ferrite rod. The shorter and stronger the current pulse in the winding, the more powerful the ring flies out.

The rail mass accelerator functions differently. In it, a conducting projectile moves between two rails - electrodes (where it got its name - railgun), through which current is supplied.

The current source is connected to the rails at their base, so the current flows as if in pursuit of the projectile, and the magnetic field created around the current-carrying conductors is completely concentrated behind the conducting projectile. IN in this case the projectile is a current-carrying conductor placed in a perpendicular magnetic field created by the rails. According to all the laws of physics, the projectile is subject to the Lorentz force, directed in the direction opposite to the place where the rails are connected and accelerating the projectile. There are a number of serious problems associated with the manufacture of a railgun - the current pulse must be so powerful and sharp that the projectile would not have time to evaporate (after all, a huge current flows through it!), but an accelerating force would arise, accelerating it forward. Therefore, the material of the projectile and the rail must have the highest possible conductivity, the projectile must have as little mass as possible, and the current source must have as much power and less inductance as possible. However, the peculiarity of the rail accelerator is that it is capable of accelerating ultra-low masses to extremely high speeds. In practice, the rails are made of oxygen-free copper coated with silver, aluminum bars are used as projectiles, and a battery is used as a power source high voltage capacitors, and before entering the rails, they try to give the projectile itself as high an initial speed as possible, using pneumatic or fire guns for this.

In addition to mass accelerators, electromagnetic weapons include sources of powerful electromagnetic radiation, such as lasers and magnetrons.

Everyone knows the laser. It consists of a working fluid in which, when fired, an inverse population of quantum levels with electrons is created, a resonator to increase the range of photons inside the working fluid, and a generator that will create this very inverse population. In principle, population inversion can be created in any substance, and nowadays it is easier to say what lasers are NOT made of.

Lasers can be classified by working fluid: ruby, CO2, argon, helium-neon, solid-state (GaAs), alcohol, etc., by operating mode: pulsed, continuous, pseudo-continuous, can be classified by the number of quantum levels used: 3-level , 4-level, 5-level. Lasers are also classified according to the frequency of the generated radiation - microwave, infrared, green, ultraviolet, x-ray, etc. The laser efficiency usually does not exceed 0.5%, but now the situation has changed - semiconductor lasers (solid-state lasers based on GaAs) have an efficiency of over 30% and today can have an output power of up to 100(!) W, i.e. comparable to powerful “classical” ruby or CO2 lasers. In addition, there are gas-dynamic lasers, which are least similar to other types of lasers. Their difference is that they are capable of producing a continuous beam of enormous power, which allows them to be used for military purposes. In essence, a gas dynamic laser is jet engine, perpendicular to the gas flow in which the resonator is located. The hot gas leaving the nozzle is in a state of population inversion.

If you add a resonator to it, a multi-megawatt stream of photons will fly into space.

Microwave guns - the main functional unit is a magnetron - a powerful source of microwave radiation. The disadvantage of microwave guns is that they are extremely dangerous to use, even compared to lasers - microwave radiation is highly reflected from obstacles and if fired indoors, literally everything inside will be irradiated! In addition, powerful microwave radiation is fatal to any electronics, which must also be taken into account.

And why, in fact, exactly the “Gauss gun”, and not Thompson disc launchers, railguns or beam weapons?

The fact is that of all types of electromagnetic weapons, it is the Gauss Gun that is the easiest to manufacture. In addition, it has a fairly high efficiency compared to other electromagnetic shooters and can operate at low voltages.

At the next most complex stage are induction accelerators - Thompson disc throwers (or transformers). Their operation requires slightly higher voltages than for a conventional Gaussian, then, perhaps, in terms of complexity are lasers and microwaves, and in the very last place is the railgun, which requires expensive construction materials, impeccable calculation and manufacturing accuracy, an expensive and powerful source energy (a battery of high-voltage capacitors) and many other expensive things.

In addition, the Gauss gun, despite its simplicity, has incredibly large scope for design solutions and engineering surveys- so this direction is quite interesting and promising.

DIY microwave gun

First of all, I warn you: this weapon is very dangerous; use the maximum degree of caution during manufacture and operation!

In short, I warned you. Now let's start manufacturing.

We take any microwave oven, preferably the lowest-power and cheapest one.

If it is burnt out, it does not matter - as long as the magnetron is working. Here is its simplified diagram and internal view.

1. Lighting lamp.
2. Ventilation holes.
3. Magnetron.
4. Antenna.
5. Waveguide.
6. Capacitor.
7. Transformer.
8. Control panel.
9. Drive.
10. Rotating tray.
11. Separator with rollers.
12. Door latch.

Next, we extract this same magnetron from there. The magnetron was designed as a powerful generator electromagnetic vibrations Microwave range for use in radar systems. Microwave ovens contain magnetrons with a microwave frequency of 2450 MHz. The operation of a magnetron uses the process of electron movement in the presence of two fields - magnetic and electric, perpendicular to each other. A magnetron is a two-electrode tube or diode containing a hot cathode that emits electrons and a cold anode. The magnetron is placed in an external magnetic field.

DIY Gauss gun

The magnetron anode has a complex monolithic structure with a system of resonators necessary to complicate the structure electric field inside the magnetron. The magnetic field is created by coils with current (electromagnet), between the poles of which a magnetron is placed. If magnetic field was not, then the electrons flying out of the cathode with virtually no initial velocity would move in electric field along straight lines perpendicular to the cathode, and all would fall on the anode. In the presence of a perpendicular magnetic field, electron trajectories are bent by the Lorentz force.

At our radio market we sell used magnetrons for 15e.

This is a magnetron in cross-section and without a radiator.

Now you need to find out how to power it. The diagram shows that the required filament is 3V 5A and the anode is 3kV 0.1A. Specified values power supply applies to magnetrons from weak microwaves, and for powerful ones they may be slightly higher. The magnetron power of modern microwave ovens is about 700 W.

For the compactness and mobility of the microwave gun, these values can be reduced somewhat - as long as generation occurs. We will power the magnetron from a converter with a battery from a computer uninterruptible power supply.

The rated value is 12 volts 7.5 amperes. A few minutes of battle should be enough. The magnetron heat is 3V, obtained using the LM150 stabilizer chip.

It is advisable to turn on the heat a few seconds before turning on the anode voltage. And we take kilovolts to the anode from the converter (see diagram below).

Power to the filament and P210 is supplied by turning on the main toggle switch a few seconds before the shot, and the shot itself is fired with a button that supplies power to the master oscillator on the P217. The transformer data is taken from the same article, only we wind the Tr2 secondary with 2000 - 3000 turns of PEL0.2. From the resulting winding, the alternating current is fed to a simple half-wave rectifier.

A high-voltage capacitor and diode can be taken from the microwave, or, if not available, replaced with a 0.5 µF - 2 kV diode - KTs201E.

To direct the radiation and cut off the reverse lobes (so that it doesn’t get caught), we place the magnetron in the horn. To do this, we use a metal horn from school bells or stadium speakers. As a last resort, you can take a cylindrical liter paint can.

The entire microwave gun is placed in a housing made of a thick pipe with a diameter of 150-200 mm.

Well, the gun is ready. It can be used to burn out the on-board computer and car alarms, burn out the brains and televisions of evil neighbors, and hunt running and flying creatures. I hope you never launch this microwave weapon - for your own safety.

Compiled by: Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru

ATTENTION!

Gauss cannon (Gauss rifle)

Other names: Gauss gun, Gauss gun, Gauss rifle, Gauss gun, accelerating rifle.

The Gauss rifle (or its larger variant, the Gauss gun), like the railgun, is an electromagnetic weapon.

Gauss gun

At the moment, there are no military industrial samples, although a number of laboratories (mostly amateur and university) continue to persistently work on the creation of these weapons. The system is named after the German scientist Carl Gauss (1777-1855). I personally cannot understand why the mathematician was so frightened (I still can’t, or rather, I don’t have the relevant information). Gauss had much less to do with the theory of electromagnetism than, for example, Oersted, Ampere, Faraday or Maxwell, but, nevertheless, the gun was named in his honor. The name stuck, and therefore we will use it too.

Operating principle:
A Gauss rifle consists of coils (powerful electromagnets) mounted on a barrel made of dielectric. When current is applied, electromagnets to some brief moment turn on one after another in the direction from the receiver to the barrel. They take turns attracting a steel bullet (a needle, a dart or a projectile, if we talk about a cannon) and thereby accelerate it to significant speeds.

Advantages of the weapon:
1. Lack of cartridge. This allows you to significantly increase the magazine capacity. For example, a magazine that holds 30 rounds can load 100-150 bullets.
2. High rate of fire. Theoretically, the system allows you to begin accelerating the next bullet even before the previous one has left the barrel.
3. Silent shooting. The design of the weapon itself allows you to get rid of most of the acoustic components of the shot (see reviews), so shooting from a gauss rifle looks like a series of barely audible pops.
4. No unmasking flash. This property especially useful in dark time days.
5. Low recoil. For this reason, when firing, the barrel of the weapon practically does not lift up, and therefore the accuracy of the fire increases.
6. Reliability. The Gauss rifle does not use cartridges, and therefore the question of low-quality ammunition immediately disappears. If, in addition to this, we remember the absence of a firing mechanism, then the very concept of “misfire” can be forgotten like a bad dream.
7. Increased wear resistance. This property is due to the small number of moving parts, low loads on components and parts during shooting, and the absence of gunpowder combustion products.
8. Possibility of use as in outer space, and in atmospheres that suppress the combustion of gunpowder.
9. Adjustable bullet speed. This function allows, if necessary, to reduce the speed of the bullet below sound. As a result, the characteristic pops disappear, and the Gauss rifle becomes completely silent, and therefore suitable for secret special operations.

Weapon disadvantages:
Among the disadvantages of Gauss rifles, the following are often cited: low efficiency, high energy consumption, large weight and dimensions, long time recharging capacitors, etc. I want to say that all these problems are caused only by the level modern development technology. In the future, with the creation of compact and powerful power sources, using new structural materials and superconductors, the Gauss gun can truly become a powerful and effective weapon.

In literature, of course, fantastic literature, William Keith armed the legionnaires with a gauss rifle in his “Fifth Foreign Legion” series. (One of my favorite books!) It was also in service with the militarists from the planet Klisand, to which Jim diGrisa landed in Garrison’s novel “The Revenge of the Rat from of stainless steel" They say that Gausovka is also found in books from the S.T.A.L.K.E.R. series, but I have only read five of them. I didn’t find anything like that there, and I won’t speak for others.

As for my personal work, in my new novel “Marauders” I gave a Tula-made Metel-16 gauss carbine to my main character Sergei Korn. True, he owned it only at the beginning of the book. After all main character after all, which means he deserves a more impressive gun.

Oleg Shovkunenko

Reviews and comments:

Alexander 12/29/13
According to point 3, a shot with supersonic bullet speed will be loud in any case. For this reason, special subsonic cartridges are used for silent weapons.
According to point 5, recoil will be inherent in any weapon that shoots “material objects” and depends on the ratio of the masses of the bullet and the weapon, and the impulse of the force accelerating the bullet.
According to paragraph 8, no atmosphere can affect the combustion of gunpowder in a sealed cartridge. In outer space, firearms will also fire.
The problem can only be in the mechanical stability of weapon parts and lubricant properties at ultra-low temperatures. But this issue can be resolved, and back in 1972, test firing was carried out in outer space from an orbital cannon from the military orbital station OPS-2 (Salyut-3).

Oleg Shovkunenko
Alexander, it’s good that you wrote it.

To be honest, I made a description of the weapon based on my own understanding of the topic. But maybe I was wrong about something. Let's figure it out together point by point.

Point No. 3. "Silent shooting."
As far as I know, the sound of a shot from any firearms consists of several components:
1) The sound, or better yet, the sounds of the weapon mechanism operating. This includes the impact of the firing pin on the capsule, the clanging of the bolt, etc.
2) The sound created by the air filling the barrel before the shot. It is displaced by both the bullet and the powder gases seeping through the rifle channels.
3) The sound that the powder gases themselves create during sudden expansion and cooling.
4) Sound created by an acoustic shock wave.
The first three points do not apply to Gaussian at all.

I foresee a question about air in the barrel, but in a Gauss-vintage barrel it is not at all necessary to be solid and tubular, which means the problem disappears by itself. So that leaves point number 4, which is exactly what you, Alexander, are talking about. I want to say that the acoustic shock wave is far from the loudest part of the shot. Silencers of modern weapons practically do not fight it at all. And yet, a firearm with a silencer is still called silent. Consequently, the Gaussian can also be called noiseless. By the way, thank you so much for reminding me. I forgot to mention among the advantages of the Gauss gun the ability to adjust the speed of the bullet. After all, it is possible to set a subsonic mode (which will make the weapon completely silent and intended for covert actions in close combat) and supersonic (this is for real war).

Point No. 5. “Almost no return.”
Of course, the gas gun also has recoil. Where would we be without her?! The law of conservation of momentum has not yet been canceled. Only the operating principle of a gauss rifle will make it not explosive, as in a firearm, but rather stretched out and smooth, and therefore much less noticeable to the shooter. Although, to be honest, these are just my suspicions. I've never fired a gun like this before :))

Point No. 8. “Possibility of use as in outer space...”.
Well, I didn’t say anything at all about the impossibility of using firearms in outer space. Only it will need to be remade in such a way, so many technical problems will need to be solved that it will be easier to create a gauss gun :)) As for planets with specific atmospheres, the use of firearms on them can indeed be not only difficult, but also unsafe. But this is already from the fantasy section, in fact, which is what your humble servant is doing.

Vyacheslav 04/05/14
thanks for interesting story about weapons. Everything is very accessible and laid out on the shelves. I would also like a diagram for greater clarity.

Oleg Shovkunenko
Vyacheslav, I inserted the schematic, as you asked).

interested 02.22.15
“Why a Gaus rifle?” - Wikipedia says that because he laid the foundations of the theory of electromagnetism.

Oleg Shovkunenko
Firstly, based on this logic, the aerial bomb should have been called the “Newton Bomb”, because it falls to the ground, obeying the Law of Universal Gravitation. Secondly, in the same Wikipedia, Gauss is not mentioned at all in the article “Electromagnetic interaction”. It's good that we all educated people and remember that Gauss derived the theorem of the same name. True, this theorem is included in Maxwell’s more general equations, so Gauss seems to be back on track here with “laying the foundations of the theory of electromagnetism.”

Evgeniy 05.11.15
Gaus rifle is a made up name for the weapon. It first appeared in the legendary post-apocalyptic Fallout game 2.

Roman 11/26/16
1) about what Gauss has to do with the name) read on Wikipedia, but not electromagnetism, but Gauss’s theorem; this theorem is the basis of electromagnetism and is the basis for Maxwell’s equations.
2) the roar of a shot is mainly due to sharply expanding powder gases. because the bullet is supersonic and 500m from the barrel cut, but there is no roar from it! only a whistle from the air being cut by the shock wave from a bullet and that’s all!)
3) about the fact that they say there are samples of small arms and they are silent because they say the bullet is subsonic - this is nonsense! When any arguments are presented, you need to understand the essence of the issue! the shot is silent not because the bullet is subsonic, but because the powder gases do not escape from the barrel! read about the PSS pistol in Wik.

Oleg Shovkunenko
Roman, are you by any chance a relative of Gauss? You are too zealously defending his right to this name. Personally, I don’t give a damn, if people like it, let it be a gauss gun. As for everything else, read the reviews to the article, the issue of noiselessness has already been discussed in detail there. I can’t add anything new to this.

Dasha 03/12/17
I write science fiction. Opinion: ACCELERATION is the weapon of the future. I would not attribute to a foreigner the right to have primacy in this weapon. Russian ACCELERATION WILL SURELY ADVANCE the rotten West. It's better not to give a rotten foreigner the RIGHT TO CALL A WEAPON BY HIS SHITTY NAME! The Russians have plenty of their own smart guys! (undeservedly forgotten). By the way, the Gatling machine gun (gun) appeared LATER than the Russian SOROKA (rotating barrel system). Gatling simply patented an idea stolen from Russia. (We will henceforth call him Goat Gatl for this!). Therefore, Gauss also has nothing to do with accelerating weapons!

Oleg Shovkunenko
Dasha, patriotism is of course good, but only healthy and reasonable. But with the Gauss gun, as they say, the train has left. The term has already caught on, like many others. We will not change the concepts: Internet, carburetor, football, etc. However, it is not so important whose name this or that invention is named, the main thing is who can bring it to perfection or, as in the case of the Gauss rifle, at least to a combat state. Unfortunately, I have not yet heard about the serious development of combat gauss systems, both in Russia and abroad.

Bozhkov Alexander 09.26.17
All clear. But is it possible to add articles about other types of weapons?: About the thermite gun, electrothrower, BFG-9000, Gauss crossbow, ectoplasmic machine gun.

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DIY Gauss pistol

Despite its relatively modest size, the Gauss pistol is the most serious weapon we have ever built. From the earliest stages of its manufacture, the slightest carelessness in handling the device or its individual components can lead to electric shock.

Gauss gun. The simplest scheme

Be careful!

The main power element of our gun is the inductor

X-ray Gauss gun

Location of contacts on the charging circuit of a Kodak disposable camera

Having a weapon that, even in computer games, can only be found in a mad scientist's laboratory or near a time portal to the future is cool. Watching how people indifferent to technology involuntarily fix their gaze on the device, and avid gamers hastily pick up their jaw from the floor - for this it is worth spending a day assembling a Gauss cannon.

As usual, we decided to start with the simplest design - a single-coil induction gun. Experiments with multi-stage acceleration of a projectile were left to experienced electronics engineers who were able to build a complex switching system using powerful thyristors and fine-tune the moments of sequential activation of the coils. Instead, we focused on the ability to create a dish using widely available ingredients. So, to build a Gauss cannon, first of all you have to go shopping. In the radio store you need to buy several capacitors with a voltage of 350–400 V and a total capacity of 1000–2000 microfarads, enameled copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm, battery compartments for the Krona and two 1.5-volt C-type batteries, a toggle switch and a button. In photographic goods, let's take five Kodak disposable cameras, in auto parts - a simple four-pin relay from a Zhiguli, in "products" - a pack of cocktail straws, and in "toys" - a plastic pistol, machine gun, shotgun, shotgun or any other gun that you want to turn it into a weapon of the future.

Let's go crazy

The main power element of our gun is the inductor. With its manufacture it is worth starting assembling the weapon. Take a piece of straw 30 mm long and two large washers (plastic or cardboard), assemble them into a bobbin using a screw and nut. Start winding the enameled wire onto it carefully, turn by turn (with a large wire diameter this is quite simple). Be careful not to allow sharp bends in the wire or damage the insulation. Having finished the first layer, fill it with superglue and begin winding the next one. Do this with each layer. In total you need to wind 12 layers. Then you can disassemble the reel, remove the washers and put the reel on a long straw, which will serve as a barrel. One end of the straw should be plugged. It's easy to test the finished coil by connecting it to a 9-volt battery: if it holds a paper clip, you've succeeded. You can insert a straw into the coil and test it as a solenoid: it should actively draw a piece of paper clip into itself, and when connected pulsed, even throw it out of the barrel by 20–30 cm.

Dissecting values

A battery of capacitors is ideally suited for generating a powerful electrical pulse (in this opinion, we agree with the creators of the most powerful laboratory railguns). Capacitors are good not only for their high energy capacity, but also for their ability to release all the energy within a very short time, before the projectile reaches the center of the coil. However, capacitors need to be charged somehow. Fortunately, the charger we need is available in any camera: a capacitor is used there to generate a high-voltage pulse for the ignition electrode of the flash. Disposable cameras work best for us because the capacitor and “charger” are the only electrical components they have, which means getting the charging circuit out of them is a piece of cake.

Disassembling a disposable camera is a step where you should start being careful. When opening the case, try not to touch the elements of the electrical circuit: the capacitor can retain a charge for a long time. Having gained access to the capacitor, first short-circuit its terminals with a screwdriver with a dielectric handle. Only after this can you touch the board without fear of getting an electric shock. Remove the battery brackets from the charging circuit, unsolder the capacitor, solder a jumper to the contacts of the charging button - we will no longer need it. Prepare at least five charging boards in this manner. Pay attention to the location of the conductive tracks on the board: you can connect to the same circuit elements in different places.

Setting priorities

Selection of capacitor capacity is a matter of compromise between shot energy and gun charging time. We settled on four 470 microfarad (400 V) capacitors connected in parallel. Before each shot, we wait for about a minute for a signal from the LEDs on the charging circuits, indicating that the voltage in the capacitors has reached the required 330 V. The charging process can be accelerated by connecting several 3-volt battery compartments in parallel to the charging circuits. However, it is worth keeping in mind that powerful “C” batteries have excessive current for weak camera circuits. To prevent the transistors on the boards from burning out, each 3-volt assembly should have 3–5 charging circuits connected in parallel. On our gun, only one battery compartment is connected to the “chargers”. All others serve as spare stores.

Defining safety zones

We would not advise anyone to hold a button under their finger that discharges a battery of 400-volt capacitors. To control the descent, it is better to install a relay. Its control circuit is connected to a 9-volt battery through the shutter button, and the control circuit is connected to the circuit between the coil and the capacitors. A schematic diagram will help you assemble the gun correctly. When assembling a high-voltage circuit, use a wire with a cross-section of at least a millimeter; any thin wires are suitable for the charging and control circuits.

When experimenting with the circuit, remember: capacitors may have residual charge. Discharge by short circuit before touching them.

Let's sum it up

The shooting process looks like this: turn on the power switch; wait for the LEDs to glow brightly; lower the projectile into the barrel so that it is slightly behind the coil; turn off the power so that when firing, the batteries do not take energy from themselves; take aim and press the shutter button. The result largely depends on the mass of the projectile. Using a short nail with a bitten off head, we managed to shoot through a jar with energy drink, which exploded and flooded half the editorial office with a fountain. Then the gun, cleaned of sticky soda, launched a nail into the wall from a distance of fifty meters. And our weapon strikes the hearts of fans of science fiction and computer games without any shells.

Compiled by: Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru

ATTENTION!
Any republication, full or partial reproduction of the materials of this article, as well as photographs, drawings and diagrams posted in it, is prohibited without prior written consent from the editors of the encyclopedia.

I remind you! That the editors are not responsible for any unlawful and illegal use of materials published in the encyclopedia.

DIY Gauss Gun

Since they have already started to appear in one of the articles with Gauss guns, or in another way Gauss Gun which are made with your own hands, in this article I publish another design and video footage of a Gauss gun.

This Gauss gun powered by battery in 12 Volt. You can see it in the picture.

This article can also be used as an instruction, as it describes in detail the assembly of the gun.

Gun characteristics:

Weight:2.5 kg
Projectile speed: approximately 9 m/s
Projectile weight: 29 g
Projectile kinetic energy: approximately 1.17 J.
Charging time of capacitors from the battery through the converter: 2 sec
Charging time of capacitors from the network through the converter: about 30 seconds
Dimensions: 200x70x170 mm

This electromagnetic accelerator is capable of firing any metal projectiles that are magnetic. A Gauss gun consists of a coil and capacitors. When leaking electric current through the coil, an electromagnetic field is formed, which in turn accelerates the metal projectile. The purpose is very different - mainly to scare your classmates. In this article I will tell you how to make such a Gauss gun for yourself.

Block diagram of Gauss Cannon

I would like to clarify this point. structural diagram the capacitor is 450 Volts. And 500 Volts come out of the multiplier. Absurd. Isn’t it? Well, the author didn’t take this into account a little. We set the capacitor to at least 500 Volts.

And now the multiplier circuit itself:

In the diagram field is used transistor IRF 3205.With this transistor charging speed a 1000 uF capacitor for a voltage of 500 volts will be approximately equal to 2 seconds(with 4 amp/hour battery). You can use the IRL3705 transistor, but the charging speed will be approximately 10 seconds. Here is a video of the converter working:

The video multiplier contains an IRL3705 transistor, so the capacitors take a long time to charge. Later I replaced the IRL3705 with the IRF 3205, the charging speed became equal to 2 seconds.

Resistor R7 regulated output voltage from 50 to 900 volts; LED 1 indicates when the capacitors have been charged to the required voltage. If the multiplier transformer is noisy, try reducing the capacitance of capacitor C1, inductor L1 is not necessary, the capacitance of capacitor C2 can be reduced to 1000 μF, diodes D1 and D2 can be replaced with other diodes with similar characteristics. IMPORTANT! Switch S1 is closed only after voltage is applied to the power terminals. Otherwise, if voltage is applied to the terminals and switch S1 is closed, the transistor may fail due to a sharp voltage surge!

The circuit itself works simply: the UC3845 microcircuit produces rectangular pulses, which are fed to the gate of a powerful field-effect transistor, where they are amplified in amplitude and fed to the primary winding of a pulse transformer. Next, the pulses, pumped up by a pulse transformer to an amplitude of 500-600 volts, are rectified by diode D2 and the rectified voltage charges the capacitors. The transformer is taken from a computer power supply. The diagram shows dots near the transformer. These points indicate the beginning of the winding. The method of winding the transformer is as follows:

1 . We cook a transformer taken from an unnecessary computer power supply (the largest transformer) in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, then carefully disassemble the W-shaped ferrite core and unwind the entire transformer.

2 . First, we wind HALF of the secondary winding with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. You need to wind it from the leg at the point indicated in the diagram.
Having wound 27 turns, we remove the wire without biting it off, insulate 27 turns with paper or cardboard and remember in which direction the wire was wound. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!! If the primary winding is wound in the other direction, then nothing will work, since the currents will be subtracted!!!

3 . Next we wind the primary winding. We also wind it from the beginning indicated in the diagram. We wind it in the same direction in which the first part of the primary winding was wound. The primary winding consists of 6 wires soldered together and wound with 4 turns. We wind all 6 wires parallel to each other, laying them out evenly in 4 turns in two layers. Between the layers we lay a layer of insulating paper.

4 . Next, we wind the secondary winding (another 27 turns). We head in the same direction as before. And now the transformer is ready! All that remains is to assemble the circuit itself. If the circuit is made correctly, the circuit works immediately without any adjustments.

Converter parts:

The converter requires a powerful energy source such as a 4 amp/hour battery. The more powerful the battery, the faster the capacitors charge.

Here is the converter itself:

Converter printed circuit board - bottom view:

This board is quite large and after a little work, I drew a smaller board in Sprint-layout:

For those who are not able to make a converter, there is a version of the Gauss gun from a ~220 volt network. Here is the circuit of the multiplier from the network:

You can take any diodes that maintain a voltage above 600 volts; the capacitance of the capacitor is selected experimentally from 0.5 to 3.3 μF.

If the circuit is created correctly, it will work immediately without any settings.
My coil is 8 ohm. It is wound with varnished copper wire with a diameter of 0.7 mm. The total length of the wire is about 90 meters.

Now that everything is done, all that remains is to assemble the gun itself. The total cost of the gun is about 1000 rubles. The cost was calculated as follows:

Battery 500 rub.
The wire can be found for 100 rubles.
All sorts of little things and details 400 rubles.

For those who want to make the same gun as mine, here are step-by-step instructions:

1) Cut out a piece of plywood measuring 200x70x5 mm.

2) We make a special mount for the handle. You can make a handle from a toy pistol, but I have the handle of an insulin injection pistol. A button with two positions (three outputs) is installed inside the handle.

3) Install the handle.

4) We make fastenings on plywood for the converter.