My father gave me such a gift, or rather, I bought it for 10 iron rubles, a bargain.
At first I was skeptical about the idea of making this knife, but when I picked it up ready product, then I realized that it was mine. The handle is made of ash and lies comfortably in the hand. The knife turned out to be very light, the hand does not get tired when working. Blade length 14 cm, handle 11.5 cm.
The knife required some modifications. First, the wood had to be treated. I entrusted this to my friend, a passionate lover of knives, Kosatom. The handle was treated with shelf oil and stained. I was pleased with the work of the master, for which he Thanks a lot. I started to like the knife more and more.
The next step is to dress him. The sheath was made for me by the “old” taiga resident, laichnik and just a great person, Alexander Bolotsky, for which I also thank him very much. The sheath is made of wood, covered with leather. The knife fits tightly, it will never fall out of them. Tested on personal experience. All my knives have sheaths made by him.
The color of the leather is matched to the handle.
The last stage, sharpening. It was made by the author of the knife and here I am the happy owner homemade knife from "quick cutter". Dad immediately warned me that the metal is fragile, but it should hold an edge well.
A ten-day trip to the north of the region was planned ahead, a good reason to test it.
During the trip I only used this knife, and only took out “Mora” once. In the kitchen he was the duty knife, and he coped with all the camp chores with flying colors. I cut and cleaned fish, chopped branches for bedding, and opened stewed fish without any problems. In general, he was an irreplaceable assistant. I haven’t cut up carcasses with it yet, but it has proven to be a good “camp” knife.
Upon arrival, I decided to test its cutting properties after 10 days of intensive use.
I cooked a couple of dishes at home using this knife.
The meat had to be cut into thin steaks for baking and goulash. These pieces are best obtained when the meat is slightly frozen. I decided to complicate it, the meat was completely thawed. The knife coped with the task perfectly.
Hello everyone, I present to your attention a razor-sharp knife made from a quick cutter R6M5, which you can make with your own hands. This steel is actively used in the manufacture of various cutting tools, including tools for metalworking. It is used to make drills, various cutters, saw blades and so on.
This steel is quite durable and lasts for a long time. hard work. This steel does not lose its strength even at high temperature loads. The only drawback of this metal is that it is very difficult to harden it with your own hands. Hardening requires repeated heating, tempering, and special chemical substances, for example, saltpeter, for cooling. But if you process the metal carefully, without overheating, then you won’t need to harden it. So, let's look in more detail at how to make a knife from R6M5 steel.
Materials and tools used by the author:
List of materials:
- steel R6M5 (hacksaw blade);
- a piece of wood for the handle;
- epoxy adhesive;
- a piece of brass for the handle;
- oil or varnish for impregnating the handle.
List of tools:
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- grinder;
- orbital sander or machine;
- drill;
- a clamp (the author’s homemade one is made of wood);
- marker;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw.
Knife making process:
Step one. Cutting out the main profile
First we need to figure out what our knife will look like. Draw the profile of the knife on the workpiece using a marker. Well, then you can start cutting. We cut the workpiece using a grinder, but when cutting P6M5 there is one nuance. This steel is quite brittle and breaks when subjected to strong bending. All we need to do is make small cuts with a grinder in the areas that we need to remove. Well, then we break them off with pliers, like glass.
Step two. Finalizing the profile
Now our rough profile needs to be finalized. For this we need a sharpening machine. We just go along the contour and remove excess metal. This metal grinds down quite easily. We process the shank in the same way; you can make small grooves on it so that the handle sticks well to it.
Step three. Bevels and sanding
We form bevels on the blade. For these purposes, the author adapted the sharpening machine sandpaper circle. The blade must be secured in special device, which can be made from a corner. Well, then we slowly and slowly form the bevels. Try not to overheat the metal, as the carbon may burn out and the steel will no longer be as hard as it was originally. Periodically dip the blade in water
We make symmetrical bevels on both sides or only on one as desired. At the same step, you can carry out the initial sharpening of the blade.
Then you can start grinding, we work on the same machine. We sand the metal until all paint, rust, etc. are removed. If raw material high quality, it can be brought to a mirror shine.
The final processing is carried out manually using fine sandpaper, soaked in water. Well, at the very end, the blade can be polished on a machine using GOI paste or another paste.
Step four. Brass insert
There is a brass insert at the front of the handle. We select the desired piece of brass and drill a series of holes in it. Then these holes are bored out with a flat file so that the shank of the blade can fit in. At the same step, you can immediately give the workpiece oval shape on the grindstone. The author immediately polished the part on the machine, since this would be much more difficult to do later.
Step five. Blank for handle
The author makes the handle from a piece of a branch; it is important that the material is dry. Drill a hole in the wood for the shank. The author drilled it in such a way that a beautiful pattern in the form of rings would be obtained on the back side of the handle. For convenience, the workpiece can be made rectangular on a circular saw.
Now you can glue the workpiece, to do this, dilute epoxy glue, carefully hammer the shank into the wood using the glue, not forgetting to put on the brass insert. Next, the entire structure needs to be tightened with a clamp. The author has a homemade clamp, made from three blocks, as well as threaded rods and washers. We leave the whole thing to dry, the epoxy is guaranteed to dry in at least 24 hours.
Step six. Final modification of the knife
When the glue dries, we take out our knife and draw the desired handle profile with a pencil. Next, we cut off the excess with a jigsaw; the fastest way to do this is with a jigsaw. We grind the handle to obtain the desired profile, rough processing can be done on a sharpening machine or grinding machine. Well, we carry out finer processing manually using sandpaper. Making the handle absolutely smooth.
When the handle is finished, we saturate it with oil, and to add color, you can apply stain. The handle can also be polished beeswax, then she will look great. The author turned out a pretty good pen interesting shape with a beautiful pattern.
That's all, the knife is ready, now all you have to do is sharpen it to the point of a blade. The author's knife is so sharp that it easily cuts paper.
I hope you liked the project and found something for yourself useful information. Good luck and creative inspiration if you want to repeat it
One of the popular materials used for making knives is alloy steel. high-speed(abbreviated as quick cutter).
Considering characteristics high-speed steels, it should be noted:
- high heat resistance at temperatures below 600 0 C;
- high hardness up to 70HRC;
- increased wear resistance at high temperatures;
- resistance to deformation (fracture).
High-speed steel of different grades for hunting knives
The hunter's indispensable tools, applicable for protection from animal attacks, skinning during butchering, and making a path in the wild forest, are Hunter knives. The length, shape of the blade, as well as the material for these knives depend not only on the type of hunting, but also on individual preferences. The most common are high speed steel knives P18.
Steel P18 - tool high-speed, where R stands for tungsten, and 18 - percentage of tungsten in become. It is used for the manufacture of tools that retain their properties when heated during operation up to 600 0 C and blades hunting knives. Models of knives Bison, Varan, Hussar, Mongoose are produced with blades made from high-speed become P18, hardness 64 HRC. Blade length - 145mm, spine thickness - 4mm. The handle is made of various materials- wenge ebony, ebonite, leather.
Popular and quick cut steel knives P12, they are easy to grind, have excellent cutting properties due to the ductility and increased toughness of the steel, these include:
- Hunter knives Berkut models, from quick cutter P12, have a blade length of 155mm, thickness 4mm, the handle is made of black hornbeam with indentations for fingers;
- knife East, steelР12М, hardness 67 HRC, blade length 155mm, spine thickness 3.2mm, handle made of hornbeam;
- knife Beaver, steel R12M, blade length 135mm, spine thickness 4mm, handle made of wenge, blade shape with a lowered tip suitable for cutting carcasses and making it easier to remove the skin.
Hunter knives with blades from a quick cutterР6М5 have high hardness 67-68 HRC, increased toughness, cutting edge knife for a long time holds an edge and does not need to be edited. Popular models:
- hunting knife Zimardak - blade length 120mm; Hunter knife - blade 109mm long;
- Oksky knife - blade 147mm long;
- Bison knife - blade 180 - 190mm long, spine thickness 3-5mm, handles made of hard African bubinga, burl, walnut, black hornbeam, wenge wood and cupronickel.
Knives steel P18 Compared to knives, R6M5 steel has greater hardness, superior cutting properties and holds an edge longer, but has lower toughness and strength.
Basic models of folding knives
Folding knives are practical and convenient, you can always take them with you, placing them in almost any pocket. Such knives perform a variety of functions and differ in the following types:
- classic folding knives with a hollow handle without a locking mechanism;
- folding knives with a locking mechanism, open with two hands, are inconvenient in extreme situations;
- tactical knives open easily and quickly, which is why they can pose a danger to the owner;
- automatic folding knives open by pressing a button or lever, are compact and easy to use, and have a high cost.
Folding knives made of quick cutter They are in no way inferior to hunting ones in quality.
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The family of high-speed steels includes a sufficient number of grades suitable for the manufacture of knives.
Some of them can be bought at the nearest construction market in the form disk cutters for metal, mechanical blades, cutting-off turning tools, for forge owners there are also useful things like reamers, countersinks and large drills.
On sale you can find a calibrated and hot-rolled circle with a diameter from 5 mm to 270 mm in diameter and a hot-rolled square from 8 to 200 mm. You can also purchase a cold-rolled calibrated circle (so-called silver) from 6 to 42 mm in diameter.
Fur linen can be purchased in various widths and thicknesses. The long fur of the canvas is about 400 mm, the width is from 25 to 60 mm (wide canvases are rare, usually found with a width of 40 mm), the thickness is found from 1.8 to 2.3 mm. Blades are usually found from steels such as R6M5, R18, R9, 11R3AM3F2, less often than other steel grades. The canvas may also be branded with the letters HSS. This means High speed steel, high-speed steel, without specifying a specific brand.
Linens are an excellent material for blades, although they are labor-intensive to process. The metal is usually hardened to 62:64 HRC or more, so no further heat treatment is needed.
To temper high-speed steel, you need to carry out 4 cycles of 3 hours at a temperature of 850 degrees.
So, if they are afraid to let go of the steel during processing, there is no need to use sandpaper. You can burn the metal, which, however, can only be done with fanaticism, out of ignorance and laziness to cool the workpiece. The blades can be processed well with a grinder, and with a cutting disc it is also not dangerous to ruin the metal; it is difficult to radically ruin it and you have to try.
Claims about the increased fragility of the paintings are somewhat exaggerated. Naturally, you don’t need to make a machete out of canvas; it will break anyway, but the knives come out beautiful in skillful hands. You shouldn't pick at sewer hatches either, that's not what knives are designed for:
I personally conducted an experiment to study the fragility of canvases, throwing canvases flat on the concrete slab, walking one broke:
Quick cutters make excellent knives and chisels for wood carving. Excellent edge retention and long-lasting dullness. Another advantage of quick-cut knives is the ability to sharpen the blade to a total angle of 10.. 15 degrees at minimum thickness convergence of slopes. (See above link to knives for wood carving.) without loss of strength.
High speed steels, for welded structures, do not apply. They burst near the weld seam.
Density of steels from 7900 (Steel 11R3AM3F2) to 8800 kg/m^3 (Steel R18)
Forging temperature is from 850 to 1220 degrees C.
The list of steels and for what purposes they are used is below:
Steel 11R3AM3F2 GOST 19265-73
Tools of simple shape for machining carbon and low-alloy steels.
Steel R10F5K5 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing tools (cutters, milling cutters, countersinks, reamers, etc.) when processing various difficult-to-cut materials (stainless and high-strength steels with increased hardness, heat-resistant alloys, etc.). It has lower grindability and cutting properties compared to R12F4K5 steel.
Steel R12 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of various cutting tools(mills, broaches, cutters, shaver, taps, reamers, etc.) when processing structural steels instead of grade P18
Steel R12M3K5F2-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches, cutters (worm, disk, end, special), cutters, shaver for processing high-strength steels, heat-resistant steels and alloys. (DI 103-MP)
Steel R12MF5-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters for processing medium alloy steels. Taps, broaches, cutters for finishing of medium-alloy, alloy, corrosion-resistant and high-strength steels. (DI 70-MP)
Steel R12F3 GOST 19265-73
For finishing tools when machining tough austenitic steel and materials with abrasive properties. Special properties - reduced tendency to overheat during hardening.
Steel R14F4 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of tools of simple shapes that do not require large volumes of grinding operations (cutters, countersinks, reamers, etc.) finishing tools of simple shapes when processing alloy steels and alloys. The steel has reduced grindability compared to grades R6M5F3 and R12F3.
Steel R18 GOST 19265-73
Cutters, drills, milling cutters, thread cutters, cutters, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches for processing structural steels with a strength of up to 1000 MPa, which are required to maintain cutting properties when heated during operation to 600? C.
Steel R18K5F2 GOST 19265-73
For roughing and semi-finishing tools when machining high-strength, stainless and heat-resistant steels and alloys. Special properties - reduced tendency to overheat during hardening.
Steel R18F2 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing cutting tools (cutters, cutters, reamers, drills, etc.) when processing medium-alloy structural steels, as well as some grades stainless steels and heat-resistant alloys.
Steel R18F2K5 GOST19265-73
For cutting tools when machining improved alloy and stainless steels. Special properties - increased tendency to decarburization and overheating during hardening.
Steel R6M3 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing tools small sizes(mainly drills and countersinks, as well as disk cutters and other tools, the workpiece of which is sheet and strip) when processing structural materials with a strength of up to 90 kgf/mm^2 (has reduced grindability).
Steel R6M5 GOST 19265-73
All types of cutting tools for processing common structural materials, and also preferably for the production of thread-cutting tools operating under shock loads.
Steel R6M5K5 GOST 19265-73
For processing high-strength stainless and heat-resistant steels and alloys under conditions of increased heating cutting edge. It is recommended instead of R18K5F steel, as it is more economical, and instead of R9K5 steel, as having higher (25-30%) cutting properties.
Steel R6M5K5-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, cutters, cutters, shaver, for processing
medium-alloyed, corrosion-resistant steels, heat-resistant steels and alloys. (DI 101-MP)
Steel R6M5F3 GOST 19265-73
For finishing and semi-finishing tools (shaped cutters, reamers, broaches, milling cutters, etc.) when processing low-alloy and alloyed structural steels. Special properties -
increased tendency to decarbonize.
Steel R6M5F3-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches, cutters, cutters. Shavers for processing low and medium alloy steels. Tools for cold and semi-hot extrusion of alloy steels and alloys. (DI 99-MP)
Steel R9 GOST 19265-73
For the production of tools of simple shapes that do not require a lot of grinding, for processing common construction materials.
Steel R9K10 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of roughing and semi-finishing tools (cutters, hobs, countersinks, etc.), when processing carbon and alloy structural steels at high cutting conditions, as well as for processing stainless, high-strength steels and some heat-resistant alloys. It has lower viscosity and cutting properties compared to R9M4K8 steel.
Steel R9K6 GOST 19265-73
Used for the manufacture of rough and semi-finish cutting tools (mills, cutters, taps, etc.) intended for processing carbon and alloy structural steels at high cutting conditions, as well as for processing various difficult-to-cut materials. It has lower resistance (up to 20-30%) compared to steels R6M5K5 and 10R6M5K5.
Steel R9M4K8 GOST 19265-73
For processing high-strength stainless heat-resistant steels and alloys under conditions of increased heating of the cutting edge - gear cutting tools, cutters, shaped cutters, countersinks, taps. It is advisable to use it for the manufacture of high-performance gear cutting tools in cases where the use of steels R6M5K5 and R9K10 is not effective enough. (EP688)