At the end of last season I tested the Term-a-rest Neoair xlite inflatable and really liked it. One of the advantages is the high thermal insulation properties(R-value > 3) with low weight (350-460 g) and a huge plus for sleep comfort. Of course, he also has his shortcomings, but that’s not the point now. You need to inflate this mat with your mouth, which is quite simple, but there are several nuances: Firstly, the temperature of the air from the lungs is higher than the surrounding air and, therefore, after some time the mat is deflated due to air compression during cooling. Secondly, moisture from the lungs enters the mat and is deposited there on the walls, reducing thermal insulation and increasing weight. I have no idea how to dry this rug, so I thought about a pump. On the American Internet I found very good option ultra-lightweight mat pump. But, as usual, we don’t have all the goods from the nearest supermarket, which by some miracle, in terms of diameters and threads, are ideal for camping equipment (this is not the first time I’ve encountered this). Therefore, I modernized the design to suit our realities.
To make a pump for a mat we will need:
- plastic lemonade bottle - any
- Garbage bag, I used a 60 liter
- A piece of rubber or neoprene ~3mm thick, rubber is better, but I only had neoprene
- Fine tooth hacksaw - I used a hacksaw
- Knife with a narrow blade
- Scissors
- Sandpaper
Let's get started (I apologize in advance for the quality of the photo - my daughter helped me take pictures, it was a debut for her :)). The first step is to saw off the neck of the bottle just below the ring on the neck. The safety ring that remains from the plug after the first unscrewing must also be removed. Carefully sand the cut area or cut off the burrs with a knife.
The next step is to cut a hole in the plug with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the valve on the mat. An exact match is not necessary here, the main thing is that the flap of the mat fits easily into the hole. This operation is convenient to do with a short thin knife.
Next, you need to cut out a washer from neoprene or rubber with an outer diameter equal to the diameter of the plug, and internal diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the mat valve. Our American colleagues are deprived of this step because you can buy this washer from them in the plumbing department and it will fit perfectly with their bottles and rugs.
If you make it from rubber, then you can give a small allowance. I made it from neoprene, so the first version of the hole turned out to be too large, the neoprene stretched and let air through. I had to make the second option - smaller.
Now we need to make a chamber in which air will be pumped. Any package can be used for this. I took “extra strong” garbage bags. The bottom corner of the bag needs to be cut off so that the resulting hole can be pressed onto the neck of the bottle.
All that remains is to insert the rubber washer into the cork and screw it onto the neck of the bag.
If you made the gasket from rubber, this is the end of the process; if you made it from neoprene, like me, you will have to tinker a little more. The fact is that neoprene is much softer than rubber and when pumping air the pump can fly off the valve. Therefore, for control, I also put on a rubber band for money to hold the pump on the valve
Now you can pump up. This is done by capturing air through the neck of the bag and then squeezing the bag itself (below there will be a video demonstrating how to do this). Don't forget to open the valve on the mat. There is no need to rush, otherwise you may damage the package. Pumps up pretty quickly. I only tested it at home, I wonder how this pump will behave in the forest, where there is rain and other weather conditions.
The weight of the entire product was less than 20 grams, which is noticeably lower than the proprietary solution. The maintainability of such a pump is very high; if you are afraid that the bag will burst, you can use two bags, inserting one into the other, or take a spare one with you.
As a result of testing, it turned out that with my mouth I inflate a size L mat (196x63 cm) in 1 minute and 16 seconds and in 16 breaths, although my lung capacity is larger than the average. At the same time, I begin to experience mild hyperventilation. And with the help of a pump, I inflated the same mat in 5 minutes and in the end the neoprene gasket could no longer withstand the pressure and released air. I had to blow through my mouth a couple more times. Apparently, it will be necessary to replace neoprene with rubber and repeat the experiment. Here is a video demonstrating how this pump works.
To summarize, we can say that the prototype turned out to be quite functional, but in the end the pump cannot cope with the increased pressure, requiring a final pumping with the mouth. There is still room for improvement here. But overall, I’m pleased with the preliminary results; I’ll test it in the fields.
I have long wanted to try making some equipment with my own hands. My first pathetic attempt is documented here :)
I went to the Epicenter hardware store (there are three of them in Kyiv) in search of interesting materials for work. I found there a number of lightweight moisture-proof materials that are used in the construction of houses. They may not be as durable as , but they'll probably last a couple of hikes. Bought 5 linear meters Strotex insulating film from a 1.5 m wide roll. The material is shown on the right. One side is white, the other is covered with aluminum film, which should reflect heat well.
I cut the piece as follows and glued the two pieces together with tape.
I then brought the diagonal edges together and glued them together to form a three meter long tube. Weighs approx. 580 g, and there's enough room for two. Field tests will be held tomorrow night...
Balcony test
I put the sleeping bag into the tube and pulled it up to chin level. The fabric was just lying on the sleeping bag. I didn't lift it with a rope or anything else. As a result, condensation from my body soaked the top side of the sleeping bag, even though I was breathing above the tube. But inside the tube it was 3 degrees warmer than outside it.
Afterword
The idea of a pipe-shaped shelter is not new. The raised entrance, of course, makes the shelter more comfortable. However, materials like Strotex can get wet in heavy rain or snow. They are much inferior to ordinary polyethylene in this regard. The main disadvantage of this design is the accumulation of condensate. I will not use this shelter, since I have a better one, but for some this solution may be quite satisfactory, especially for short trips (1-2 nights), where the issue of condensation is not decisive.
Izomat 120 grams January 2008
Izomat was originally intended for insulation and soundproofing of floors. I cut it up and taped the pieces together so it folded up and fit in my backpack. Successfully used in . The material is quite fragile, but its thermal insulation properties are more effective than travel rugs (per unit weight).
Report, 2008
Subsequently, the isomat broke and came unglued. But the fact remains: the thermal insulation is excellent.
Case for cats February 2008
The simplest project. I cut out a piece and sewed the edges to make a cover. Then, when I purchased sewing machine, altered the seams. Weight - 8 grams. It is very puncture resistant, which is superior to silicone and other ultra-light fabrics.
Report, 2011
I still keep my cats in this case. Great use of Tyvek. The fabric becomes softer and softer, but does not pierce.
Snowshoes February 2008
My simplest and most naive project. Unfortunately, I didn’t get further than the first stage due to the inability to try these snowshoes on the snow! That way I would know what is needed to improve them. The basis for snowshoes is cheap aluminum dumplings weighing 260 grams each. I liked their shape and excellent grip. At the hiking site, I was going to tie straight branches with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm and a length of 60-70 cm to the dumplings. The fastening system shown here is too flimsy to withstand large and multidirectional loads. We should have come up with something more complicated.
Conclusion, 2009
Snowshoes should not be shaped like a circle...
Silicone vapor barrier socks March 2008
Quite a complex project. I took the pattern from polar socks, “by eye.” Each sock contains three pieces of fabric. They work well, but they slip. You need to add a tie or elastic band. The weight of a pair is 16 grams.
Report, 2009
Sewing socks turned out to be quite difficult. These socks are suitable for sleeping, but not for walking.
Duffel bag 110 grams March 2008
Explain, What is this, very difficult 🙂 You have to see and feel it for yourself. Fabric - volume - about 40-45 liters, weight - only 110 grams. There are drawstrings at the ends of the duffel bag, and things can be easily reached along the entire length of the bag. There are several perpendicular seams.
Report, 2010
I haven't gone camping with him yet. I doubt that I will like it, but it would still be worth trying to go with him at least once.
Failed wind pants March 2008
I ordered a kit for sewing these ultra-light pants from thru-hiker.com. Fabric (“Momentum” - ultra-light breathable polyamide with water-repellent impregnation), accessories and pattern are included in the set. Due to my inexperience, I did not check the resulting pant size in the early stages and sewed pants that were too narrow with a wide waist. By the time I realized that my pants didn’t fit well, it was already too late. I decided to contact the studio to have pants sewn for me from another piece of Momentum I ordered (and also in a less disgusting color). The pants turned out great and weigh less than 80 grams. By the way, I abandoned the side zippers. The lightning can be seen in the second photo.
Report, 2010
Momentum is definitely a very advanced fabric. For most windproof products, as well as bivouac bags, Momentum is ideal. But for trousers, I advise you to use heavier fabrics, because... When hiking, you often catch branches and thorns, sit on rocks, fall on snow, etc. Momentum can tear, and sew up a tear or hole in such light fabric it can be difficult. I still wear trousers (this is my second pair) from Momentum, but I decided that my next pair will no longer weigh 70 grams, but 100 or more.
Bag for map and camera No. 1 April 2008
For the next ultra-light hike in Crimea, I decided to get rid of many of the covers that I was used to hanging on the straps of my backpack (see), and carry only the most necessary things in front: a map and a camera. For them, I came up with a special silicone bag measuring 30 x 25 x 8 cm with two compartments (so that the card can always be put inside, even if the second compartment is filled with things). Product weight - 30 grams.
The bag was supposed to work like this. While you are looking at a map or using a camera, the bag hangs in front of your stomach. When the map and camera are no longer needed, you tighten the hole and dashingly throw the bag over your head back so that it hangs behind you. When you need the bag again, you take the rope from behind your shoulders with your hands and use it to pull the bag over the top of the backpack.
No matter how much I tried, I could not find a place to tie the rope to the backpack so that the bag would hang at the desired height both in front and behind, and so that it could be easily reached from behind. If you wear it only in front, it dangles and hits your stomach with every step. Over time it gets boring. And so, the design is not bad.
Conclusion, 2009
Is the design good? I don't agree. I wonder how many hits my camera would have withstood on the backpack when the bag was thrown? :)
Bag for map and camera No. 2 April 2008
Continuation of the previous topic. This bag corrects the shortcomings of the former. Now the bag with the map and camera hangs under the arm in a place where the map (for example, “Atlas of the Crimean Mountains”) is still easy to take out and put in without removing the backpack, and at the same time the bag does not interfere with the use of a trekking stick. In addition, it does not hit the body at all, since the line of attachment of the bag is parallel to the trajectory of movement.
The design is now flat, with two compartments, a drawstring and four loops to allow the bag to be hung in different ways (only the side two are used in the photo). Attaches with ultra-light carabiners to the loop on the backpack and to the shoulder strap. I'm very pleased with the result. During this time, this handbag was my constant assistant and did not interfere with the movement of my hand at all and did not hit my body. Weight including carbines - 23 grams.
Report, 2010
Over time I cut out a divider inside the bag. She was clearly superfluous. In fact, now the bag is practically no different from a regular case for hiking items. Only by the presence of loops and the stupidity of the seams :) As a rule, I attach the front part lower than shown in these photographs. An improved model is presented. Nevertheless, the bag remains one of my most successful inventions and has accompanied me on numerous hikes, incl. and by . Thanks to it, the map is always at hand, and looking at it on the go is not difficult.
Mosquito net April 2008
Many means have been invented to protect against insects without using a traditional tent. It's worth searching on Google, for example, "bug bivy". At one time I bought a simple, lightweight and relatively cheap mosquito net from Gossamer Gear (70 grams). In anticipation of summer hikes, I decided to make a mosquito net that would weigh less and more reliably protect not only from mosquitoes, but also from ticks and ants that can crawl up to you from below.
The mesh I developed can be used with equal success both on the ground and in a hammock. It can also be used as a mosquito net for the head. The shape of the mesh is an envelope tube, tightened at hip level. Made of ultra-fine mesh (“no-see-um”), through which midges and ticks cannot crawl. Weight - 50 grams. Suspended from an awning, branch or rope. In the photo below, the net is raised 20 cm above the head of the imaginary sleeper. This option is ideal for lightweight athletes who walk like this: they came in the evening, set up camp, immediately lay down, then got up in the morning and walked.
Report, 2008
I used the net while hiking on. The idea may be a good one, but it turned out to be very difficult to climb inside the mesh while sitting in a sleeping bag. From this muscle tension at the end of a 12-hour day's march you become completely exhausted.
Super-ultra-light backpack June 2008
How light can a backpack be? I think it’s not much lighter than my latest brainchild, which weighs 45 grams and holds 22-24 liters. The body of the backpack is made of whole piece silicones (75 x 75 cm and 24 grams of weight). The backpack is designed for summer hikes in Crimea with a base backpack weight of up to 1-2 kg and maximum load at 6-7 kg.
Report, 2010
Subsequently, this pathetic backpack visited the top of Elbrus behind the shoulders of my friend. My next ultra-light silicone backpack will have a double bottom, external pockets and thicker foam in the straps. A full-fledged backpack for summer PVD can weigh about 100 grams.
Mosquito net for two November 2008
Now I gravitate towards the most simple and functional equipment. I wanted to do mosquito net for two, which could easily be used at rest stops as well as at night. The size should be large enough for two people to sit and dine under the net. In Colorado, we already realized how inconvenient it can be without such protection from insects, and decided that we would have to come up with something for our next trip. I had been eyeing a mesh tent from Ray Jardine's site for a long time, but gradually I abandoned this design. Firstly, the tent requires pegs and trekking poles or branches to set up, which makes it useless for short rest stops. Secondly, it is too low to sit in. It was necessary to come up with something simpler and more convenient.
In the end I came up with this design. Essentially it is a pyramid with the top shifted forward and the bottom open. The length of the structure is 2.6 m, width - 1.8 m in front - 1.5 m in back. Top height - 1.2 m. Weight - 200 grams. Pieces of nylon are sewn to the bottom corners, and the bottom edges of the mesh can be held either with something heavy (say, sneakers) resting on the pieces of nylon inside the corners of the tent, or with pegs. Loops for pegs are sewn to the corners and the middle of the long sides. You don’t have to stretch the edges, but simply hang the mesh at the top, on which there is a special tensioner, so that the mesh can be easily raised or lowered without tying knots. It is enough to find a branch to hang a tent in half a minute and protect yourself from mosquitoes. If the awning has a loop at the bottom, then you will attach the mesh to it. We will try this design at the end of December.
Report, 2010
Subsequently, this grid underwent a number of changes. First I added a vertical zipper at the entrance. Then I cut off pieces of mesh at the sides and back and sewed loops around the perimeter of the mesh. But I went too far with reducing the size: I no longer fit under the mesh. I added new pieces of mesh and sewed the entire structure to the rescue blanket for complete protection from insects (particularly ticks). However, we didn’t like how the walls of the “interior” sagged and touched our faces. We leave experiments with mesh and move on to using a two-person bivouac with mesh or shelters with integrated mesh (like the “Hexamid Twin” from Zpacks), that is, essentially, ultra-light single-layer tents.
Rain skirts December 2008
How to protect yourself from such rain, which falls from morning to night at temperatures of 10 degrees or lower? The umbrella protects the torso well, but the pants (shorts are cold) invariably get wet. Gore-Tex rain pants don't breathe enough and get hot under heavy loads. A poncho is good if you are alone, but if you are alone, you will want a large awning instead of two poncho awnings. The simplest and, it seems to me, effective solution is a “rain skirt” or a kilt made of silicone. The design is a partial cone (imagine a glass without a bottom, with a wide end at the bottom). Fixed with Velcro. As easy as pie. It can also be used as a cover for a backpack or a small bedding for rest stops. It is not hot in such a skirt due to good ventilation. I made one for myself and one for a girl. Weight is 70 grams for me and 55 for the girl. The main difficulties when sewing are to determine the most convenient length, make the bottom wide enough, draw the bend correctly (see photo on the left) and choose the optimal places for the Velcro (and so that they match at both ends of the skirt!).
Vapor barrier gloves December 2008
There was a need for vapor barrier gloves for girls, because... her hands often get cold. The mittens were sewn from pieces of silicone left over from rain skirts. We were lucky with the size of the mittens: they fit both her and me. They are loose enough to be worn as tops over thin gloves. This way they protect from rain or snow. True, in this case the hand does not breathe, but in certain conditions this can even be a plus (if your hands are cold). Having outlined the hand and 5-10 cm of the wrist on paper, you need to add about 2 cm around the perimeter and a little more in the wrist area so that the hand can fit through the hole formed. Then we cut out the resulting pattern and apply it to silicone or other fabric and outline it with chalk or a marker. Cut out four “handles” to make two mittens. Well, then everything is clear, I hope. The mittens work. Now I want to add elastic at the wrist area to prevent the mittens from slipping. The weight of the pair is 8 grams.
Report, 2010
You don’t need to add 2 cm, but 3-4, depending on whether you wear mittens over gloves. The elastic is a necessary thing, but you need to sew it on before sewing two pieces of silicone. Sew on an elastic band - it’s not a field to cross :)
Waterproof pants August 2010
Numerous moves and the inconvenience of using strangers sewing machines over the past two years they have prevented me from developing self-tailoring projects. But now these issues have largely been resolved. In addition, I feel that the accumulated experience and understanding allows me to sew more intelligently than before. I'm starting to design new equipment... Waterproof pants are designed to correct the shortcomings of the rain skirt. They protect the entire length of the legs from precipitation and do not interfere with stepping over obstacles. You can wear Gore-Tex socks underneath without the risk of water running down your feet and getting inside the socks from above. The trouser legs weigh 66 grams (from 50 for smaller people).
Report, 2010
Preliminary result after testing in: I like it. When combined with Gore-Tex socks, they protect the entire foot from external moisture. Pants should be worn in conjunction with a poncho or raincoat, the lower edge of which is below the groin. Otherwise, moisture will get under the legs from above, and the legs will gradually get wet from the inside. Putting on pants legs in the wind can be difficult. I partially solved this problem by sewing a thin jumper between the legs (see photo on the right).
Card bag No. 3 October 2010
It seems perfection has been achieved! The bag weighs only 11 grams without carabiners and has easier entry and tightening than the old one. Now the fabric does not get into the lock, and the “Atlas of the Crimean Mountains” slides in easily. In addition, the bag can also be used as a cover for things.
Windproof mittens October 2010
Why windproof mittens, even 15 gram ones? And then to a) protect your hands from cold and wind on summer hikes, b) protect your hands from mosquitoes and c) wear over warm, breathable gloves in cold weather. This combination now weighs only 57 grams. When sewing the mittens, the hardest part was sewing on the elastic. As it turns out, this needs to be done before sewing the two handles. I only succeeded in doing this the third time. Not counting the first glove failure, the project took two hours. By the way, the fabric for the mittens was taken from my wife’s worn-out windpants.
Sketch your future armor. It's better to focus on the basic shapes (their size and how to connect the pieces of armor) rather than on color and details, which can be dealt with later. Decide where and how the individual pieces will connect to keep the armor flexible. Simplify the design as much as you can so that many parts do not knock against each other and so that you do not have to connect them in many places (this will weaken the design). You can also search ready-made templates armor online, you can even print some of them.
Take measurements of the person to ensure the armor fits (mark the size of the armor, such as S, M or L). Write down all the necessary volumes that are needed to make a helmet, breastplate, shoulder armor and other various coverings. While this won't be your main guide when choosing armor size, it will be useful whenever you're cutting, joining, or making any changes that you may be unsure about.
Transfer your measurements to the armor stencil (template). You'll get through it faster if you have a friend hold pieces of flexible and rigid paper (like cardboard) in front of you and draw each detail of the sketch separately, making a rough outline so that you can later redo it as you need. It will be more accurate if you make a mannequin and assemble a paper stencil around it.
Give the stencil its final shape. Make sure you have all the parts you need and adjust them to size if necessary. If the template consists of 2 identical parts (two shin plates, two gloves, etc.), choose the best one and discard the other. Thus, you can use the best one as a model for the second one, so that your armor is symmetrical. When you're happy with the result, clean up and soften the outline, mark the original sketch and its corresponding part (noting which ones will be duplicated) and you can cut out.
Transfer the stencil onto the foam sheet. Trace each detail onto sheet foam. ballpoint pen(it will glide over the foam without catching or scratching it), tracing it a second time if necessary. To make very large pieces, you may need to tape 2 sheets of foam together, preferably where it is less noticeable and can blend into the design (such as the seam down the center of the bib). Mark the back and cut out the pieces.
- To use foam more economically, trace the large parts first, and then fit the small ones around them.
If necessary, “stamp” the design on the armor. Lightly sketch the sketches with a ballpoint pen. Once you're happy with the results, go over the pen a few more times to engrave your designs into the foam (be careful not to tear the material). It is much easier to draw on foam if it lies on flat surface and has not yet been assembled into armor.
Shape and assemble the armor. Exactly how you do this will depend on the intrigue of your design. Below are several factors to address how you work. Gather your armor. How you do this will depend on the complexity of your design. Below are some tips for this job.
- Shape sheet foam to the shape of your body. Since the material is elastic, you will only have to glue the parts along the bends. However, you will need to process some parts so that the foam itself holds its shape. This can be done by heating the foam uniform, safe heat source(such as a hair dryer or stove) to soften it and manually bend it around another object, e.g. liter bottle or rolling pins. You will only have a few seconds to do this, so act quickly. It's best to test your technique on leftover scraps first to learn how to heat the foam without it burning, shrinking, or bubbling.
- Glue the parts at the joints (PVA glue is suitable). In some places (for example, where there are many joints or strong curves), it will be more convenient to glue after the parts have been shaped so that they do not lose their shape. However, when you're working on pieces that don't need much bending and that don't restrict movement too much when they fit together, you can glue them together before shaping them.
- To strengthen and give rigidity to the armor, turn it over and lubricate the reverse side with liquid glue, smooth thin material (for example, gauze or mesh fabric) over the surface, and press the weave into the folds and bends with something sharp. Once the glue is dry, trim off the excess fabric and apply another layer of glue.
- Remember that you will most likely have to work gradually. If your suit has many parts, you may need to glue several of them together just to assemble one segment of one armor piece. Think about how best to fasten small parts together so that you can later make large ones out of them.
- Don't forget to leave holes. Since the foam is flexible, you will have plenty of freedom of movement: armor made from sheet foam, with a good seam position, you can easily put on and take off. However, for armor in traditional style, you need to imitate real way fastenings, that is, connect the parts with leather or fabric ties, which can be untied/unfastened if necessary.
- Decide how the armor will fit on you. Unless you have a one-piece suit, you will most likely have to attach various details differently. You can wear a tight-fitting outfit under the armor and attach Velcro to the support points. If you put on the armor on the same axis with Velcro, the structure will hold up well. (For example, you can attach double-sided Velcro to the right places of your clothes, in front of the mirror, attach the armor to these places, carefully separate the Velcro, and then more firmly attach each Velcro to its place on the suit, using thread, stronger glue, etc.).
Make a raised pattern if desired. To do this, simply paint over the fabric of the already highlighted design on your armor, using a pointed tube. You may need to repeat the procedure for a more obvious effect. When the pattern is sufficiently convex, leave it to dry overnight.
Paint the armor if necessary.
- Apply sealant to the foam. Because the foam has a spongy texture, it needs to be compacted before applying the adhesive. One recommended mixture is 1 part PVA glue or Sobo glue, 1 part flexible textile adhesive and 2 parts water. Apply the mixture thin layers until the air from the foam stops creating holes in the coating. You may even need 7-8 layers, but since they are thin, they shouldn't take too long to dry. Make sure that nothing gets into the glue, otherwise blisters may form on the armor.
- Walk if necessary acrylic paint on the back of the armor. If the armor does not fit tightly to the body (you can see what is underneath), after painting reverse side, your armor will look more professional.
- Color it front part armor Since the foam will flex and move with your body, it's natural for the paint to crack. Test a flexible paint (such as textile paint) on a scrap piece of foam to see if it suits you. Apply the paint in an even layer so that it does not leave streaks and paints over all the kinks and irregularities.
- Give your armor a worn look. This can be done by brushing with dark acrylic paint (for example, for a dull copper shade you need to mix black and green color) according to your armor. Before the paint has time to dry, almost all of it must be wiped off so that only the shade in the cracks remains.
The ghillie suit has its own characteristics. Such special clothing is used by the military, and the suits are also very popular among fishermen and hunters.
The history of the camouflage suit
In ancient times, a camouflage suit was made from all available materials: branches, leaves, grass. Such equipment was created more for human self-preservation in extreme conditions. The most the best material Animal hair and bird feathers were considered for making costumes. All this was done with the goal of surviving in the wild.
The modern camouflage suit came from the military about 50 years ago. The first ones were used by the English army back in the 19th century, and they were made in khaki color. Gradually the suits improved and began to be produced in several types, with different colors and drawing. Gradually, the camouflage suit flew around the entire planet and began to be used by the army in all countries of the world.
Types of camouflage suits
Camouflage clothing is created individually for each area and season. There are two main types of equipment:
- Summer.
- Winter.
Each of them is divided into special subspecies, of which there are a large number.
The summer one is equipped with a jacket with a hood and loose-fitting trousers. The costume is intended for use against a summer background only. Available in a green shade with a special small geometric pattern. If necessary, the camouflage suit can be washed in a washing machine.
Winter clothing is made of thick white fabric and is used in the cold season. It can be produced with various patterns that imitate dirt, or made from woven, dyed pile. For convenience, there are loops that are located on the trousers or on the jacket for attaching a belt. If you purchase a high-quality winter camouflage suit, a person can remain unnoticed at a distance of several meters.
DIY ghillie suit
If necessary, you can make a camouflage one. Men's favorite pastimes are fishing and hunting, which require such equipment. You don’t have to buy it in a store; you can easily do it yourself. There's nothing complicated about it. detailed instructions will explain each step step by step:
These camouflage suits for hunting or fishing can be made from improvised materials.
Conclusion
As can be seen from all of the above, if you need a camouflage suit, you don’t have to buy it in a store.
Having in your arsenal a small supply of information and simple materials, it’s easy to do it yourself. If you still need to buy it, then you need to go to a specialized military equipment store for it. Also, camouflage suits can be purchased at “Everything for Fishing and Hunting” stores.
Trips
If Big city- it's not your thing, you like to travel or want to start, then you may need some information about what you can do in extreme conditions to survive.
There are many ideas on how to make things that will help you on your trip.
You can do a lot with your own hands useful tools, and you can find out about some of them below.
1. Quickly ignite a fire for active tourism
In wet weather, you may have problems starting a fire. So that this does not bother you, make preparations that will help you quickly and easily light a fire.
You will need:
Fuzz (threads) sticking to clothing or cotton fiber
Cardboard packaging for eggs
Wax from old candles
1. Place the fiber into the egg holes.
2. Melt the candle wax.
3. Pour the melted wax onto the fibers in the carton.
4. Wait for everything to cool and dry.
5. Cut out the blanks as shown in the image.
When lit with a match or lighter, each of these blanks will burn for up to 20 minutes.
You will need:
Two identical plastic jars
Baking paper
Wire or rope to create a handle
Small battery operated candle
Glue stick
Adhesive tape
Drill or awl
Super glue
1. Clean the jars of any debris and grease. You only need one jar lid.
2. Measure and cut three pieces of baking paper to fit inside the jar.
3. Glue the ends of all three parts together to form a tube that can be conveniently inserted into the jar.
4. Make a hole on opposite sides of one plastic lid (from a jar).
5. Insert the wire into the holes and bend it to form a handle.
6. Do big hole in another cover. This time the holes are on top.
7. Insert the candle inside the hole (there will be a switch outside). Secure the structure with glue.
8. Now glue the lid with a handle to the bottom of the jar, and simply screw the top lid (with the candle) back to the jar.
3. What should a tourist do in the cold - hand warmer
You will need:
Calcium chloride (or something that contains it)
2 packages different sizes with clasp
1. Pour some calcium chloride into a large bag.
2. Take some water into a small bag.
3. Place the small bag inside the larger one.
4. When in contact with cool weather, calcium chloride starts to heat up and you have a comfortable hand warmer.
4. Wood-burning stove made from tin cans for lovers of outdoor activities and tourism
You will need:
2 cans(diameter approximately 7.5 and 10 cm)
Metal cutting scissors
Can opener
Screwdriver or awl
Ruler
1. Cut the bottom from a large jar. Make holes in it to turn it into a ring.
2. Place the ring on a jar of smaller diameter.
3. Make several holes in a small jar (top and bottom, large and small).
4. Insert the small jar into the larger one.
5. Mobile stove for lovers of extreme tourism
You will need:
Small metal box
1. Cut the cardboard so that it fits comfortably in the tin box.
2. Melt the wax.
3. Fill the cardboard with wax. Fill so that there are no empty holes.
Ready. It will burn long and hard.
6. What a tourist needs: one thing fresh coffee bags
You will need:
Paper for straining coffee infusion
Dental floss
Measuring spoon
1. Place straining papers in measuring spoon.
2. Add 1-2 teaspoons of coffee.
3. Use dental floss to secure the coffee paper.
4. Cut off the excess (if the tail of the paper is long).
5. Place all pouches in a ziplock bag to help them last longer.
To brew coffee, use coffee bags in the same way as tea bags:
1. Place the bag in a cup and pour boiling water over it.
2. Wait a few minutes.
* Boiling water can be poured for you free of charge on the plane, airport, cafe and other places.
3. Before drinking coffee, remove the bag and throw it in the trash.
7. Very interesting ideas: mobile toilet paper holder
In the rain toilet paper may get wet. But if you make a holder like this, you can get rid of this problem.
1. Prepare a wide plastic jar.
2. Remove the lid and put toilet paper inside.
3. Make holes at the top and bottom and insert wire to make a handle.
4. Cut an oblong hole to insert the paper.
8. How to make an organic spray to repel bugs from plants
You will need:
1 head of garlic
1 small onion
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 liter of water
1 tablespoon liquid olive soap
1. Place the garlic and onion in a blender and blend until liquid.
2. Add 1 liter of water and a tablespoon of cayenne pepper to the contents.
3. Cover the mixture and leave for 1 hour.
4. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth and add 1 tbsp. l. olive soap.
5. Fill your spray bottle and you can use the contents to repel bugs from your plants.
9. DIY compass
This craft can be done with your child, it is so simple.
You will need:
Plastic cover
Magnet (rod)
A piece of cork or foam
Some water
1. Use a knife to cut a piece of champagne or wine cork.
2. Pass the needle along the magnet several times, but only in one direction. If you did this enough times, the needle will also become a magnet.
3. B plastic cover pour water.
4. Place the cut circle from the cork on the water, and place a needle on top. Take your time, make sure the needle lies flat.
Soon the needle will begin to rotate slowly and its tip will begin to point north.
10. DIY snowshoes
11. DIY water filter
12. DIY hammock
