An easy-to-manufacture device for chamfering wooden blocks and narrow boards, as well as for planing and other types of processing of round or faceted wooden blanks.
When planing wooden blocks and narrow boards, it is almost always necessary to remove small chamfers from the ribs in order to blunt them to one degree or another. However, to do this you have to hold the plane obliquely, at about a 45-degree angle, which is not always convenient, especially when working with electric planes.
You can get out of this situation if you make a special device in the form of a long longitudinal angle into which the processed block would be placed and thus the edge from which you need to chamfer would be on top.
In addition, such a device could also be used for planing faceted and round wooden blanks (for example, handles for garden tools: shovels, forks, rakes, etc.), which are very inconvenient to plan on a flat surface.
I thought about making such a device just when I was planing blanks for shovel handles (see my article “”), since with such a device my work would have gone much easier and faster.
As a result, I decided to make this device, for which I needed the following accessories:
Materials and fasteners:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wood plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.
Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Jigsaw with saw blade figured cutting.
Electric drill-screwdriver.
Metal drill with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.
Operating procedure
First, we mark a 6 cm wide plank and drill along its entire length, with 5 or 6 holes for screws on one side.
On the opposite side of the plank, we countersink these holes for the screw heads using a spherical wood cutter.
Then we insert screws into these holes and screw our plank to the end of another 4 cm wide plank.
As a result, we get this wooden corner 2 m long.
After that, using a jigsaw, we cut out such a blank from a short strip.
It will serve as a stopper for planed workpieces, and at the same time, as a support for our device.
We also mark this blank and drill three holes in it for screws.
And then, using screws, we screw this workpiece to the end of our corner device.
From the remaining piece of the plank we cut out two more blanks like this with a jigsaw.
We will screw them to the back of our device, where they will serve as additional supports.
At the very back of the device, we drill two holes for screws on each side.
We also countersink the upper parts of these holes with a spherical wood cutter in order to recess the screw heads.
Now we screw our blanks with screws.
All elements of the device and especially the ends are processed sandpaper.
And now our device is ready!
This is what the back looks like.
And so the front part.
Now it will be possible to process bars using this device.
For example, I put a blank block for a shovel handle into this device - rear view.
And this is the front view.
But the block is not square, but rectangular in cross-section. Now it will be quite easy to chamfer from such bars.
But I put a purchased handle for a shovel, round in cross-section, into the device.
Such round blanks, now it will also be very convenient to process in this device. Moreover, it will be possible not only to plan them, but also to carry out other types of processing, for example, drilling holes in them or sawing them.
Well, that’s probably all! Goodbye to everyone and have easy-to-use devices!
All photos from the article
Which is better parquet board with or without chamfer? What advantages does having a chamfer provide, and what problems can it create for the owner of an apartment or house? How to chamfer when making solid parquet with your own hands? Let's figure it out.
What it is
Chamfer is beveled, rolled edges. parquet board. They highlight the seam between adjacent boards, emphasize it, giving the surface a voluminous appearance.
Note!
The chamfers give the three-layer parquet boards a more expensive material- solid parquet.
This tendency to style cheap materials as expensive ones is in demand, because the building materials market, as we know, is formed by buyers.
There are several types of chamfers based on shape and depth:
- Microchamfer (depth 0.5 - 1 millimeter);
- V - shaped, about 2 mm deep;
- Deep (from 3 mm) rolled, with rounding;
- Deep (from 3 mm) V-shaped;
- Deep planed.
The chamfer can be two- or four-sided. In the first case, it is removed only on the side edges of the board, in the second - from all four sides.
Useful: the double-sided chamfer highlights the longitudinal seams.
They, in turn, visually lengthen the floor of the room, making it look like a corridor.
If in an already elongated room, the obvious instruction is to prefer a covering with seams highlighted on all four sides.
Pros and cons
Let's compare two types of parquet boards based on their main consumer characteristics.
It would seem that an objective comparison is not in favor of the board, which has so rapidly supplanted competing solutions. Marked seams are noticeable and, contrary to the claims of numerous sellers, accumulate dirt. Perhaps we are missing something?
Advantages
The main advantage of chamfered material in the eyes of buyers is, of course, its more attractive, solid appearance.
However, the list of advantages is not limited to them.
- Fluctuation in the size of the parquet board with increasing and decreasing humidity is absolutely inevitable. Dry and warm air a room heated in winter causes the wood to dry out; Since the strength of click locks is limited, the seams between adjacent boards always become visible sooner or later. However, when the seam diverges in a deliberately made recess, it does not catch the eye - the joint still looks presentable;
You can chamfer the board different ways. The most common of them are two: using manual and automatic tools. Negative side applications hand tools(various planes) is considered to have a high degree of injury risk, as well as a catastrophically low pace of work. Of course, automatic and semi-automatic milling cutters are ideal for these purposes.
On the website http://www.zaoportal.ru/product/view/111 you can purchase a professional chamfering machine. The main reason The reason why home craftsmen avoid purchasing such equipment is the apparent difficulty of operation. In fact, setting up and using it for its intended purpose does not cause any difficulties even for a novice user.
Initially, it is important to choose the appropriate type of cutter. There are several types of chamfers. Choose the one that suits your specific task. The suitable cutter is not always included in the set with the router.
But acquiring it will not be difficult. Milling cutters of this kind are freely available in tool stores and cost pennies.
Preparing the milling cutter for work is as follows:
- a hose from a vacuum cleaner is placed in the waste removal socket;
- the cutter position is adjusted;
- the router is fixed in a given position;
- horizontal guides are installed.
The addition of a vacuum cleaner makes working much easier. When processing wood, there is virtually no waste left.
Initially, the cutter height adjustment head must be turned until it clicks. The depth regulator is pulled down 3 mm. Then it lowers onto the head. Thus, we obtain the “zero” position of the cutter.
Now, by rotating the height adjustment head, you can quickly and without much difficulty change the position of the cutter by 5, 10 mm.
The router guides should also be adjusted for correct chamfering. This is achieved quite simply - it is only important to tighten the nuts on the guides until the router slides along the surface being processed, as if on rails.
A chamfer is an edge obtained in a special way on the end surface of a metal product or on the wall of a pipe, beveled at a certain angle.
The main purpose - preparing rolled metal for further welding work.
WHY IS CHAMMERING NECESSARY?
Processing the ends of sheets or pipe walls allows you to:
- Get the perfect brew and reliable connection welding seams
- Reduce welding time
- Prevent employee injuries from sharp corners of the product
- Simplify further installation of the metal structure being erected
- Do not carry out manual grinding sheet or pipe edges
If chamfering is not performed, then in products whose thickness exceeds 5 mm, the welding seam may come apart over time and the structure will lose strength.
Chamfer ANGLE
The angle of chamfering from the edge of a sheet or pipe is selected based on design features product or assigned welding task. As a rule, the standard chamfer angle for metal sheet profiles is 45°, for pipes - 37.5°.
TYPES OF CHAMMERS
You can cut an edge from rolled metal in three ways, namely: Y-shaped, X-shaped and J-shaped (another name is “glass” chamfer).
Also, in the technical literature you can find something else letter designation: V, K and U, respectively. The most common methods of edge removal in production are the Y-shaped method and the X-shaped one. When high-precision welding is required (for example, on products complex design), then use a chamfer with a curved surface. The chamfering method is J-shaped, performed using special automatic chamfers. This method allows you to create a weld pool of larger volume than other methods.
Other types of edge cutting (butt type of connection with a broken edge) are not used so often in production.
FEATURES OF THE CHAMMERING PROCESS
If you need to cut edges on metal product, then special units are used - chamfer removers, which differ in the cutting method into three types (air-flame, mechanical and oxygen-gas equipment).
The cutting process occurs as follows: using clamps, the chamfer is attached to the edge of the sheet or inside metal pipe. Next is set required angle sharpening. When the machine is turned on, the cutting head is brought to the workpiece and the chamfer cutting process occurs. After finishing the work, the cutter returns to its original position. After chamfering, working surface the product is considered prepared for further welding work.
During chamfer cutting, a so-called welding container (bath) is formed, in which the hot welding composition is collected. It should be understood that a chamfered edge has a certain dullness, which is usually 3-5 mm. At the moment the container is filled with welding compound, the blunting area melts itself. Thanks to this, the required seam tightness is achieved and additional reliability is created.
EDGE CUTTING METHODS
Currently, two methods of edge removal are used in production: thermal and mechanical.
Mechanical chamfering is considered the highest quality, since this method is performed using special equipment - chamfering machines, milling machines, edge splitters and other devices. The advantages of this method are as follows:
- After chamfering, the product retains its structure and does not lose its physical and chemical properties.
- The mechanical method ensures high tightness and reliability of future welds
- Save time.
Mechanical chamfering methodis a kind of guarantor of the quality of processing of metal products before welding work. The only “disadvantage” of this method is high price units and labor intensity of work.
Thermal method - air-plasma chamfer and gas-flame chamfer (using the "Orbita" unit). Air-plasma cutting of edges allows you to obtain a chamfer appearance close to the factory (or mechanical chamfer). However, it requires ideal smooth surface sheet or pipes at a certain angle. In many industries, this type of chamfering is the main one due to its efficiency and high speed product processing. It is performed using special plasma cutting equipment.
Gas plasma bevel cutting requires special conditions implementation and is therefore characterized by low cost. However, the quality of the resulting cutting is much lower than with mechanically or air-flame. In addition, in most cases, such chamfer cutting requires additional machining. This method is mainly used for artisanal processing of used pipes. In addition, using thermal method chamfer cutting (gas-plasma and air-plasma chamfer cutting), in a metal product due to overheating a section appears with altered physical and chemical properties(thermal influence zone). This negatively affects the tightness and reliability of future welds and the strength of the structure itself.
Thus, mechanical chamfering is the more preferable method of processing the edge of rolled metal, since it is this method that allows you to preserve the properties of the product and does not affect the quality of future welding work.
Usually, when planing wooden blocks or narrow boards, it is often necessary to remove small chamfers from the edges of the workpiece in order to reduce the sharpness of the corners and also make them more beautiful. To do this under normal conditions, you have to hold the workpiece with the plane at angles of about 45 degrees, which is not particularly convenient, especially when you are working with an electric plane, which is many times heavier than a manual one. This problem can be solved using your own special device, which will look like a longitudinal corner, where the block will be placed, which will be processed in the future, and its edge will be located at the top, which is convenient for processing.
This arrangement of the workpiece in a homemade device will also help for planing faceted and round bars, as well as wooden handles, which are inconvenient to process on a flat surface. The author of the homemade product thought about making such a device, since the need for it arose when he was planing blanks for shovel handles, because with such a device the work was completed faster, and it was also much more convenient to work this way.
In order to make this device, you need:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
A jigsaw with a file for curved cutting.
Electric drill-screwdriver.
Metal drill with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Cross (curly) bit RN2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.
When all the materials and tools are available, then you can begin the most interesting part, this assembly process.
Step one.
The first thing you need to do is decide on the dimensions, you can use the dimensions given here, but if your workpiece is large, then simply increase the size of the poles components until necessary. Using a pencil, we mark a plank 6 cm wide, then using a screwdriver and a drill, we drill holes along its entire length, on one side there are 5 or 6 holes for screws, as a rule, the more, the better, and the more reliable.
Step two.
Having positioned the plank on the opposite side, using a countersink installed in a screwdriver chuck, we increase the dimensions for the screw heads, using a spherical wood cutter.
After we have enlarged the holes for the caps, we insert screws into these holes and screw our plank to the end of another 4 cm wide plank.
What should happen at this stage can be seen in the photo, this is the so-called wooden corner, its length is 2 m, made so that there is a reserve in length used in processing workpieces, thereby increasing the range of application, since you do not have to combine sizes, then small, then large devices, and it’s easier and more practical to make one, but longer.
Step three.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out a smaller piece from a board, which will be the supporting part, with which the device will be held on a flat surface, this process requires sufficient precision and accuracy; for better accuracy, use a special corner stand on the jigsaw, which will help in creating even cuts. When working with a jigsaw, be extremely careful and do not forget to wear safety glasses and gloves, protecting yourself from accidental contact with sawdust and wood dust, as well as protecting yourself from the tool slipping out of your hands.
Step four.
The previous workpiece, whose role is to hold our corner part, must be drawn, the lines should correspond to an angle of 45 degrees, as on the main part, for a better match, attach the future support and outline it with a pencil. To secure it, you need to drill holes for the screws in in this case There will be three of them, which is quite enough; we select the drill according to the diameter of the screws so that the thread passes without difficulty.
Step five.
Then we tighten the screws with a screwdriver, that is, we screw this workpiece to the end of our corner device, try not to overdo it with the tightening force, so as not to damage the support and form a crack in it.
The remaining part of the strip will also be useful; we make the same blanks from it using a jigsaw; you will need two of these.
We supplement the corner with two more supports, which will make it much more stable, and it will also acquire a larger workload, which is also important when processing. We screw them in the same way as the first support.
Step six.
The back of the device must be drilled on each side; we use a screwdriver with a drill whose diameter is equal to the thickness of the screw; for strength, we make two holes on each side to prevent rotation.
The location of the holes, as in the previous stages, must be processed with a spherical wood cutter in order to recess the screw heads and thereby eliminate accidental snagging.
Step seven.
Armed with a screwdriver and a bat attachment for driving screws, we tighten the screws into the workpieces.
Next, we move on to more precise processing, for this we will use sandpaper, as usual, we start with coarser paper, gradually reducing the grain size as we approach the finish of sanding.
This is our homemade device done, now let's look at it from all sides for a full assessment.
This is what the back looks like.
And so the front part.
After you make such a device, you will be able to process bars without any difficulties or inconveniences, be it a wooden handle or a workpiece with square edges.
A device with a workpiece for processing.