We construct a doorway from plasterboard with our own hands. Instructions for installing a doorway from plasterboard How to beautifully make a doorway from plasterboard

The ease of processing of plasterboard boards allows them to be used for a variety of purposes, including for the design of windows and doorways. Moreover, it is possible both decorative finishing doorways with plasterboard, when this material only covers the planes of capital partitions, as well as the construction of doors in partitions made of gypsum plasterboard.

Decorating a door with gypsum board is quite simple, but some nuances are still worth taking into account. That is why in this article we will consider in detail all the stages of this operation to change the interior of your home.

Doors in plasterboard partitions

How to reduce the size of the passage

When remodeling an apartment, we quite often encounter a situation where the width of the doorway is excessive and needs to be reduced. This operation can be performed using drywall, and below are instructions that allow you to do it yourself and with minimal costs time, effort and money.

Note!
It is very important that on the wall next to the entrance there is a layer of plaster, the thickness of which is equal to or greater than the thickness of the gypsum board sheet. In this case, the new opening will be as smooth as possible!

We reduce the size as follows:

First, remove the plaster from one side of the doorway 10-15 cm from the edge.
Then we apply markings to the walls and floor of the room, outlining the contours of our future drywall frame.
We attach fragments of the starting profile to the floor and ceiling according to the markings.
We insert rack profiles into the starting profile and connect them with self-tapping screws or pliers for galvanized metal.

Advice!
To provide the frame with greater rigidity, wooden beams can be placed in the profile - the so-called “mortgages”. The length of the bars should be equal to length profiles.

When the frame is ready, we cut out the pieces of drywall we need.
Having applied drywall glue to the areas of the wall that have been cleared of plaster, we attach the resulting sheets to the base, and after polymerization of the glue, we fix the edges of the sheets to the frame using self-tapping screws.

We sew up the slope of the new opening with a gypsum board strip, after which we putty all the joints and prepare the surfaces for finishing.

This technology is the simplest. It is much more difficult to figure out how to make a door in a wall made of plasterboard, i.e. in a hollow gypsum wall.

Door in frame partition

Doors in a partition made of gypsum plasterboards should be designed at the stage of construction of the partition itself.

So that the doorway has sufficient efficient operation mechanical characteristics, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

At the stage of marking in the lower part, we mark the planned location of the future doorway. Its dimensions should be slightly larger than we need, since part of the width will inevitably be “eaten up” by the finishing.
According to the markings, we attach two sections of the starting profile to the floor, which will act as the basis for the vertical posts.
We insert the vertical rack profiles into the starting profile and securely fasten them, after which we attach them to the same profile on the ceiling.
As in the case of changing the dimensions of the passage, in rack profile we lay wooden beams. To ensure sufficient rigidity, we attach the beams to the profile with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm. Price wooden beam on the market is small, so the increase in cost of the design will be insignificant - but mechanical properties the frame will seriously improve!
We continue to assemble the door frame, connecting vertical racks horizontal profiles. Frame assembly sequence for plasterboard structures shown in video instructions posted on the portal.

The finished frame must be covered with plasterboard. When sawing gypsum plasterboard, try to ensure that the junction of the two sheets is located above the doorway - this way there is less risk of cracks.

Covering the frame with gypsum plaster sheets and subsequent finishing is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

Advice!
If the door leaf planned for installation in this partition is of significant weight, then before sheathing the doorway with plasterboard inside, you can install additional wooden spacers.
Covering the frame with plasterboard in two layers also gives a good result.

Design of a plasterboard arch

Yet the most common plasterboard doorways are arched structures placed in place removed doors. Most often, arches are made either at the entrance to the kitchen, or at the junction of the hallway or living room.

The gypsum plasterboard arch is mounted as follows:

First, remove the door and remove the old door frame. If necessary, we increase the dimensions of the passage between rooms to make it more spacious.
At the top of the opening we attach the base for the frame of the future arch, using starting profile elements made of galvanized metal.
We attach the arc part of the crayfish, made from a cut profile (as shown in the photo), to the base.

Next, you need to cover the arched part. At the first stage, we attach flat elements to the sheathing, forming the front surfaces of our future door.
Here it is important to cut out the arc parts very accurately, since it will be difficult to level them with drywall putty.

The final part of the cladding is the most difficult. We need to sheathe the inner curved surface of the arched passage.

For this:

Cut a strip of material of the appropriate size.
Having laid the drywall on a flat surface, we roll it using a special needle roller, after which we lightly moisten it with water.
We carefully bend the strip processed in this way, and, attaching it to the frame, fasten it with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the installation of the plasterboard doorway itself is completed - all we have to do is glue all the seams with reinforcing tape, attach a protective pad at the corners and fill in all the irregularities. After completing all these operations, the new arched opening is ready for finishing!

We hope that thanks to the recommendations given in the article, you have understood how to make an opening from plasterboard. And now, if such a need arises, you will definitely approach the task “fully armed”!

Change with your own hands appearance decorating your home is the favorite thing for many owners. And drywall is a material that is a multifunctional tool in matters of repair. It is known what unusual, luxurious ceilings can be made from plasterboard, how gypsum board partitions turn one room into two, how plasterboard sheets are used to construct shelves and niches. Likewise, a doorway can be sheathed with gypsum board, and it can be done on a budget, beautifully and, most importantly, with your own hands.

How to make a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands

A doorway is most often finished with plasterboard during the process of remodeling an apartment. The simplest option is rectangular shape opening, but more and more often owners prefer to add some zest to the interior and give the doorway a curved shape.

The first stage of repair is dismantling old door. A hammer and nail puller will come in handy for this step. First, the door is carefully removed from its hinges, the trim is removed and, in fact, the door is dismantled. If jambs are fixed to the floor, they are sawed off and carefully removed.

After this comes the most important stage - covering the opening with sheets of plasterboard. This process is not complete without some technological features.

Installation of a plasterboard doorway

Work on the construction of a plasterboard doorway is carried out in several stages:

Rigid frame. This is the basis of the future opening, the structure on which the sheathing sheets are attached. To get such a frame, you need to fix the partition from profile systems UW and СW. UW profiles are fixed at the base of the ceiling and floor - these are the base parts, and vertical rack systems of CW profiles will lie on the sides of the opening.
To fix the upper dimensions opening, you need a crossbar - it will be placed at the top.
Height and width the door opening will be determined by the parameters of the box.
Cutting drywall and preparation of material. Taking into account the dimensions of the door block, as well as the room, the gypsum board is cut out. If there is a need for soundproofing, purchase mineral wool or glass wool.
Fix sheets Drywall needs to be screwed, lowering the heads of the screws into the base by 2 mm.
Installation is completed The seams are sealed with sickle tape, putty is applied, and a primer completes the work.

When the surface is dry, the opening awaits finishing decorative finishing.

Creating a doorway from plasterboard (video instructions)

Interior openings made of plasterboard - arch option

An arched interior doorway is a favorite interior design option for many compatriots. This is explained by the geometric perfection of the design, as well as by the fact that installation and finishing are not complicated, and thus you can modify the doorway with your own hands.

Construction of an arched opening:

Project development. The height and diameter are determined. The easiest way is to make a small sketch on paper, which will then become the basis of a life-size template.
Installation of metal profile. U-shaped profile will the best solution. It is rigid and durable, and is suitable for making arches. The length of the profile is calculated, and cuts are made on the cut part with special scissors (1 cm increments) to shape the frame. According to the template, the profile bends.
Drywall installation- Preparation. On one side of the strip of drywall that needs to be bent, continuous cuts are made in centimeter increments. The strip is then broken along the cuts, it becomes possible to give it the required form. The bottom of the arch should be the side where the plaster is glued. And on top there will be a side with cuts.
Arch installation. The surface of the doorway is pre-leveled, and a metal profile is strengthened on both sides of the opening. Using the template, the sides of the arch are cut out. For the sake of control, the sidewall is applied to the place. If one side has come up, the second is being prepared. That is, in this place the first sidewall will be the template. Next, you need to attach the previously curved profile to the installed straight one.

When you screw in the screws, do not press too hard on the screwdriver handle, otherwise the metal profile may bend and the structure will lose its shape.

Plasterboard finishing of a doorway in the form of an arch: types of arches

Interior openings that you can turn into beautiful arches, there are different ones. Some people prefer classics, others want exoticism or originality.

Types of arches and their features:

Romantic. The corners of such an arch are rounded, and the upper part is straight. Not a very common option, but if you want to save on material, this type arches corresponds to this goal.
Classic. Such arches are distinguished by a rounded upper part, the radius of the arch is half the width of the doorway. Those who build this arch in a space with low ceilings, be careful - such a design will “eat up” the space even more.
Half-arch. This is either a very small radius of the circle, or only one rounded corner. It fits in any modern interior.
Modern. Suitable for designing thick floors. Large radius of curvature.

Video instruction: how to make an arch from plasterboard

But what to do if you decide to seal the doorway with plasterboard?

Doorways made of plasterboard: the “stitching” option

This is done in several stages, not so complicated that you can’t do it yourself.

Process step by step:

Removing the old door and door frame.
Cleaning the opening.
The profile is installed on the ceiling of the opening.
Two side posts are installed at the edges of the doorway, one in the middle (vertical).
A strip to the size of the frame is cut out of the plasterboard, and it is attached to the metal sheathing with self-tapping screws.
Do the same on the other side. It turns out that the sheathing is carried out on both sides.

How to seal a doorway with plasterboard (video)

Both installation and dismantling of the doorway are not so difficult. The main thing is to take correct measurements, do not be lazy to make a template, and make all the necessary cuts efficiently and accurately.

A doorway made of plasterboard has many “advantages”, the main ones being that this design is made on your own, and the material used is inexpensive. Try to transform your home in such a simple but effective way.

Installing a plasterboard partition with a doorway allows you to easily and quickly turn a large room into two small rooms. In the simplest version, this is an ordinary working partition with a door installed in it, but when creative approach To the point, this design can really decorate the interior.

Of course, a beginner will not be able to make an option like the one in the photo on his own right away. First you need to master the basics of working with drywall, and you need to start small. For example, you can do doorway in a plasterboard partition - and the instructions offered in this article will help you with this.

One of the most popular concepts of modern interior design is the constructive delimitation of space, allowing it to be divided into several zones. But if you look at things more realistically, most residential property owners have no time for design.

They often need to install a partition with a door in order to allocate, although not large, a separate room for an older child, or a young couple who still have to live with their parents. How to adequately cope with such a difficult task?

By searching: “Do-it-yourself plasterboard doorway video,” you can find and watch videos with master classes from professionals. But we think that the theory will also not hurt - especially for those who similar work never encountered this before.

Required materials and tools

Manufacturing doorway under drywall, requires, of course, a certain skill, but before starting this work, you should stock up necessary tool. First of all, you will need two planes specifically designed for working with plasterboard. They are called: peeling and edging: the first one processes the cut line of the sheet, and the second one is necessary in order to cut a chamfer on it at a certain angle.

Cut drywall sheets with a knife with a reinforced blade. However, in some cases a special hacksaw is used, which you see below. To cut the profile, you can use ordinary metal scissors. For the rest, they use general construction tools that every owner has in their arsenal: a hammer drill with drills, a screwdriver, a hammer, a set of screwdrivers.

Cover the opening door plasterboard the simplest thing is that the main thing is that the frame is correctly installed under it. The main role here is played by correct marking, which cannot be done without a building level, a plumb line, a paint cord, and a tape measure with a magnetic hook at the end. Professional installers use a completely different tool for this - but their scope of work is appropriate.
You will need two types of materials metal profiles: a guide, mounted around the perimeter of the partition (floor, walls, ceiling), and a rack-mount, on the shelves of which stiffening ribs are provided. Profiles domestic production, mark PN and PS, for an imported profile, indicate UW and CW, respectively.

Note! During the installation process, the profiles are joined, so they need to be selected in pairs - so that the height of the rack shelf matches the width of the back of the rail: UW 75*40 mm and CW 75*50 mm.

The bearing capacity of the profile directly depends on the size of the section, and the longer the span, the thicker the partition will be. It must also correspond to the width of the door frame that is installed in the opening. Therefore, the standard size of the profiles must be appropriate.
To strengthen a plasterboard doorway, you will need a couple more wooden beams. Since they will have to be inserted inside the racks framing the opening, the cross-section of the beam must correspond to the size of the profile. And, of course, you can’t do the work without fasteners. To fix the guides you will need 6*40 dowel nails, and to install the sheathing you will need 3.5*25 mm plasterboard-metal screws.

The frame elements are fastened to each other using small self-tapping screws. The price of such a tool is not so high - you can buy inexpensive option within 580-980 rubles. But the connections are more rigid, and the work progresses much faster.
All that remains is to buy basalt mineral wool 60 cm wide, which is used for the internal filling of the structure and, in fact, the cladding material. To mount a plasterboard doorway in a working partition, you need to take a wall gypsum board with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm.

And it’s even better to use gypsum boards rather than plasterboard - they have greater strength, since they are reinforced throughout the entire mass with asbestos fiber. The width of the sheets is standard: 1200 mm, but the length is selected depending on the height of the partition.

If it is higher than 2500 mm, then it is better to take sheets 3000 mm long - this way you will not have to insert narrow strips along the top. Accordingly, before covering the doorway with plasterboard, the sheet is oriented vertically with its long side.

Frame part of the structure

So, everything that is required for the work has been prepared - now we will figure out what needs to be done and how. You need to start by preparing the surfaces. Of course, you won’t have to level them, but removing the covering from the floor and dismantling the wall or ceiling cladding, if any, may be necessary.

Installation of guides

The guide profile is installed first on the floor, for which the starting line is marked with a marking cord. Using it, you should measure the distance between the walls, after which you can cut the profile into pieces of the required length.

Even for a small partition, the lower guide profile cannot be solid, since there will be an opening in it, which means that at least two pieces will have to be cut.

So:

When cutting a profile, you should always minus 5-6 mm so that during thermal expansion it does not rest against the walls. Then, on the back side of the profile shelf, you need to stick a sealing tape made of foamed polyethylene. The tape is needed to improve the sound insulation of the structure, and also serves as a kind of shock-absorbing substrate.

Now you can install the profile. To do this, it is applied to the marking line, and holes for dowels are drilled directly through it. Drilling is done at intervals of one meter, but in any case, each profile must be attached in three places.
After the guide is installed on the floor, the level marking line is transferred to the ceiling. Installation of a profile on it is carried out in the same way, only its length should be measured along the ceiling, and not along the floor, since due to deviations opposite walls height or vertical, serious errors may occur.
The same goes for load-bearing profile. Before cutting it, you need to measure the height of the room for each rack in the exact place where it will be installed. When cutting profiles, you need to subtract not 5, but 10 mm from this figure - after all, except thermal expansion, it is also worth considering the thickness of the metal of the guides.

First, install the wall profiles, gluing sealing tape on them in the same way as was done on the floor and ceiling.

When the base is concrete or brick, dowel-nails are used as fasteners. If the vertical guides have to be mounted to plasterboard sheathing, then the fastening is done with self-tapping screws into the rack profile of the walls, or using special butterfly-shaped dowels.

Posts and lintels

As soon as the frame along the contour of the partition is ready, they begin to install the doorway pillars. We have already mentioned that they are strengthened using wooden blocks, but there is another way.

If the door is not too heavy (no more than 30 kg), then the experts will do this.

In this case, the support posts are made from two profiles using the attachment method - that is, the shelves of one element are inserted inside the other and pressed well. Then their ends of the double profile are inserted into the guides and secured with self-tapping screws or a cutter. There should be a distance between the vertical elements of the opening corresponding to the width of the door block.

Once the racks are securely fixed, you can begin installing the horizontal lintel of the opening. Cut it out from the guide profile. The length of the jumper is the sum of the distance between the posts. We also add a plus 10 cm of margin for the bend, which is necessary in order to join the jumper with the vertical elements of the frame. How to cut and bend the ends of the profile is clearly shown in the picture below.
Now you need to strengthen the jumper. To do this, you need to install one or two short posts above it, which will connect two horizontal structural elements. The number of studs above the lintel depends not only on its length, but also on how the drywall is installed around the doorway.

If it is a single sheet that completely covers the opening, then one rack is enough. In this case, the excess part of the gypsum board that covers the opening is cut out with a hacksaw after the sheet is mounted on the frame. If the sheathing elements are cut in advance and then joined, there must be at least two posts above the lintel.
Next, intermediate vertical frame elements are mounted. The step between them should be no more than 60 cm so that the sheet, whose width is 1200 mm, is secured both at the edges and in the center. To make this possible, the backs of all profiles must face the front side towards you.

Where sheets have to be joined horizontally, it is necessary to install the same jumpers as above the doorway. All load-bearing frame elements must be double. This is necessary so that they can be sheathed on both sides - otherwise, you will have to install two parallel frames.

Covering the partition frame

Let's say you want to make lighting, install sockets or switches on the partition. After the “skeleton” of the partition is mounted, it’s time to install wiring in it.

The cable must be perpendicular to the racks, and it is passed through specially prepared holes in the profile shelves. Laying wiring inside profiles is unacceptable!

Next, you can begin installing drywall. The sheet should be cut to length so that it is less height rooms by 10 mm. The gypsum board is attached to the rack profile with plasterboard-metal screws measuring 3.5 * 25 mm. Fastenings along the rack are made at a distance of a maximum of 250 mm, and the sheet begins to be fastened in the direction from the center to the edges.

The end of the sheet on which the chamfer was cut should be adjacent to the ceiling surface, and the outermost screw should be at least 15 mm away from it. Fastenings made on joined sheets must be offset by approximately 10 mm. The self-tapping screws must go straight into the plasterboard and go deeper into the rack by no less than a centimeter.
When making fastenings, you need to ensure that the heads of the screws enter the thickness of the drywall by about 1 mm, which is necessary for subsequent puttying - just don’t overdo it. The sheet adjacent to the wall must be cut to width, the edge cut, and a chamfer made.

Making openings: plasterboard partition, ready for finishing

If the sheet extends beyond the perimeter of the doorway, it can be very easily trimmed after it is completely secured. They do this with a hacksaw, first piercing it with a sharp end, the sheet in the corner of the opening. When performing cladding, it is necessary to remember that the joints of the elements should not be placed on the racks along which the door frame will be mounted.

Now that one side of the partition is completely ready, fill its cavity with mineral wool. This is insulation (see) - but in in this case, it plays the role of a soundproofing layer.

Next, all that remains is to cover the second side of the structure with sheathing - and your partition is ready for puttying and finishing. You will get information on how to do this correctly from the video in this article.

There are two options for placing the door, which depend on the requirements for its position. If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is “tied” to it and adjusted so that the drywall joints do not fall on the door posts (Fig. 1, a).

In the case where the position of the opening is permissible to vary, it can be “built into” the structure, that is, made where there are no joints (Fig. 1, b). It is better to arrange the opening so that there are two structural posts on both sides of the profiles framing the doorway. They can be connected to several door jumpers, which will further strengthen the door block.

Attach door frames to the vertical post profile of the partition frame without installation additional elements rigidity is possible subject to following conditions: the height of the partition does not exceed 2600 mm; width door leaf- no more than 900 mm; door leaf weight - does not exceed 25 kg.

The rigidity of the partition with the doorway in this case will be ensured when reliable connection rack and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be secured to the ceiling with dowels at a distance of no more than 100 mm from the opening. Above the doorway, the rack profiles must be separated by a crossbar, which increases the rigidity of the entire door frame structure. Between the crossbar and the top guide you need to install 1-2 intermediate posts.

There are three ways to make a crossbar over a doorway.

1st method. In a section of the PN profile equal in length to the width of the doorway plus 60 mm, cuts 30 mm deep are made with scissors. Then the back of the profile is bent at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2, a). The resulting part is fixed with self-tapping screws on the posts made of the PS profile of the doorway (Fig. 2, b). The sidewalls of the crossbar are fastened to the shelves and the bent back.

2- th way. In the shelves, make cuts with scissors at an angle of 45° and bend the back. In Fig. 2, c shows a doorway post with a lintel with shelves cut at an angle of 45° and a bent back at an angle of 90°. The jumper is attached to the rack at four points - two on the bent part and two on the jumper itself. That is, only eight attachment points for the jumper.

3- th way. The lintel above the door frame is made from a piece of the PN guide profile, a length equal to the width of the doorway plus approximately 200 mm. Having marked the width of the opening on the profile, use scissors to cut the shelves to the back and bend the ends at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2, d). Attach the finished jumper in place with self-tapping screws through the bent backs (Fig. 2, e). For reinforcement, wooden blocks with a cross-section along the width of the PN profile are inserted into the corners and fixed on both sides with screws at the bend of the profile (Fig. 3, a). This will ensure the reliability of the design. Inserting bars into corners is the “know-how” of Russian craftsmen; there is no such information in the technological instructions of drywall manufacturers.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, then the racks of the partition frame framing the opening must be strengthened. The company "Rigips" and the German company "Knauf" (in the sense of the main company in Germany) recommend the use of reinforced UA profiles with a thickness of 2 mm. Their width corresponds to standard wall profiles CW/UW - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling using connecting corners.

Rice. 2. Manufacturing and fastening of doorway crossbars:

a - making the side of the crossbar (the back is cut and bent at an angle of 90°); b - crossbar with sides (the backs are notched and bent at an angle of 90°) in the partition frame; c - doorway post with insert corners and crossbar with sidewall (the shelves are cut at an angle of 45°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - PS profile, 2 - PN profile, 3 - crossbar, 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - insert corner for door jamb lower, 6 - upper insert corner for door jamb; g - crossbar with sidewall (the backs are cut at an angle of 90°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - stand, 2 - crossbar, 3 - LN9 screw; e - frame of a doorway with insert corners and a crossbar with sidewalls (the shelves are cut at an angle of 90°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - lower guide, 2 - upper guide, 3 - door jamb post, 4 - insert corner for the door lower jamb, 5 - upper insert corner for the door jamb, b - crossbar.

The corners are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and connected to the reinforced profile with an M8 bolt with a washer and nut. In our practice, this reinforcement is carried out either by pressing a wooden beam into the rack and then securing it with screws (see Fig. 3, a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3, c).

The maximum weight of the door leaf depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards, a door leaf weighing 30 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW50 profile, a door leaf weighing 40 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW75 profile, and a door leaf weighing 49 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW100 profile. When using reinforced UA profiles (2 mm thick), the weight of the door leaf for installation in the partition frame increases and amounts to 50 kg for the UA50 profile, 75 kg for the UA75 profile, and 100 kg for the UA100 profile.

Window openings and niches in partitions are reinforced with racks according to the same principle as a doorway.

Making a doorway in frame partition near the wall to which the partition adjoins is no different from those described above. On the guide profile, which will be attached to the base wall, the length from floor to ceiling is marked with lines. Then add the length of a short section of the partition to each side and cut off the excess with sharp scissors. Along the lines of the floor and ceiling, the profile flanges are cut to the back and the tips of the corners are slightly trimmed in these places so that they do not interfere with bending. Bend the ends of the profile along the marking lines at an angle of 90°. Using a plumb line and building level, align and fix the guide profile with dowels and nails (Fig. 4).

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this review I will tell you how to make a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands. Moreover, we will not consider just any individual option, as is done in most reviews, but we will deal with all the most popular types designs, you must decide in advance which technology would be better suited for your situation. Right choice will provide not only best result, but will also simplify the work process and reduce the costs of project implementation.

Types of openings

The conditions for constructing structures may be different, so you don’t need to listen to anyone’s advice about the advantages of this or that option. You should familiarize yourself with all the technologies for carrying out work and, based on the information received, make an informed and informed decision.

Option 1 – partition with opening

If you need to make a wall with a doorway, then this section will help you understand the technology and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. This method is very popular in new buildings, where you get a room in which there are no partitions, and you determine the layout yourself; you can also redevelop the existing space, of course, if you have agreed on everything in advance.

This option needs to be considered as a whole - from the beginning of planning the partition to its assembly, since it is impossible to first make a wall and then in the right place build an opening, everything is thought out in advance. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a plasterboard wall with a door or an arch, it’s important to make a durable partition that will serve you for many years.

The workflow consists of several stages, each of which is important. Therefore, all the recommendations outlined below must be followed. Let's start with the planning stage:

First, you need to clearly define the place where it will take place. future wall, here it’s worth thinking carefully about everything, so that later it doesn’t turn out that you missed some important nuances. Those who do the work themselves, due to lack of experience and haste, often make mistakes and miscalculations, so you shouldn’t determine everything by eye, it’s better to estimate everything using a tape measure;
Once you clearly know the location of the wall, you can begin to determine the exact location of the opening. It all depends on the layout of your premises, its configuration and future. It is important that the end result is not only attractive, but also comfortable; think about where the location of the opening or door will be most rational;

If you clearly know the location of the wall and opening, then making a drawing will not be difficult. For the example above, an option is shown indicating the structural elements so that you can plan their position. The guide profile sets the position of the wall, the posts create a plane, and the lintels increase strength; naturally, a frame is made around the perimeter of the opening;
The stage cannot be considered complete until you mark the position of the structure in the room. This will simplify your further work, and will allow you to see errors, for example, too small space or communication interference. The markings are made along the ceiling, after which the lines are transferred to the floor using a plumb line - this option allows you to make an ideal vertical and eliminate errors that are necessarily present when working with a level.

You can use more modern solution for marking - laser level. This is what specialists most often use. If you have the opportunity to borrow such equipment, then you can work with it, the main thing is to ask for advice on the operation of the level, the opinion that anyone can use it is wrong.

You cannot carry out work without a certain set of materials, the list looks like this:

Materials	Description
Drywall	Use wall option 12.5 mm thick, it is not worth using ceiling sheets, their strength is low and even a child can break through such walls. Naturally, if the design is made for a room with high humidity, then you need to purchase moisture resistant drywall, which is easily distinguished by the green color of the outer covering
Metal profile	I strongly recommend not saving and purchasing a good-quality rack profile measuring 50x100 mm and guide elements 50x50 mm. Adapting a regular profile is not the best idea, its strength is low, and a wall thickness of 6 cm will not allow you to achieve good sound insulation and structural rigidity
Mineral wool	We will use it to fill the cavities for sound and heat insulation of the partition. Regular ones will do roll materials, they are cheaper than specialized options, but, as practice shows, this option is sufficient for effective noise absorption
Fasteners	This includes quick installation dowels and self-tapping screws different types, with their help the structure is assembled into a single whole. The most commonly used dowels are 6x40, screws 3.5x11 mm and 3.5x25 mm

As for the tools, you will need the following set for work:

A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels. If your walls and floor are wooden, then there is no need for this tool;
A screwdriver - you definitely can’t do without this device; screwing a huge number of screws by hand is a bad idea.
To cut the profile, use ordinary metal scissors, the main thing is that they are sharp;
To control the position of each element, you need a level, and to take measurements and markings, you should have a tape measure and a construction pencil on hand;
Drywall cutting is done using the usual construction knife, to simplify the work, you can additionally use a metal ruler, then the cutting line will be perfectly straight.

Now let’s figure out how to build the frame of the structure; the instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

A guide profile is laid out along the previously made markings, if necessary individual elements cut using metal scissors. Moreover, at the corners it is not necessary to cut the element completely; you can make cuts on the side shelves and simply bend it, so the structure will be more rigid;
Next, you need to mark the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling for drilling holes for dowels. The dowel spacing is 50-60 cm, the work is not difficult, but it requires a certain amount of time. The hammer drill is very noisy, so do not use it in the morning or evening;
The guide profile is fixed with dowels; to do this, they are first inserted into the hole, and then impact screws are driven into them, everything is very simple and quick;

IN finished design Stands are inserted around the perimeter of the partition and secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other. For work, so-called “bugs” are used; they allow you to reliably connect the frame elements.

Now let’s figure out how to make an opening, because this is the main goal of our review, everything is simple:

Two partition profiles are placed at the edges; if you are thinking of placing a door in the structure, then the width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than door frame. If you have an arch, then keep in mind that drywall will be fixed to the surface, which needs to be finished decorative coating and putty, this also takes up some space;
It is advisable to strengthen the opening; there are two main options: either insert the profile into the profile so that you get a square post, or insert it into the groove wooden block suitable size and secure it with self-tapping screws. Both solutions have worked well, strengthening has never harmed anyone, even if you make an arch, you can later hang a door, a reinforced opening will allow this;

The entire structure can be reinforced with transverse jumpers, their number depends on the size of the structure and its rigidity, sometimes reinforcement is not required at all.

If there will be wiring inside the structure, then it must be laid at this stage in special corrugations. Then the following work is performed:

First you need to line one of the walls with plasterboard, after which you can start laying soundproofing material, it is positioned so that there are as few cracks and voids in the cavity as possible, this will ensure the best result;

After laying the material, the structure is completely sheathed; if there is a door inside the opening, then there is no need to sheath it along the inner perimeter; if there is an arch, then strips of plasterboard are attached to the surface.

Finishing works do not differ from ordinary ones, so we will not consider them. The corners of the opening must be reinforced with putty corners; they both level the joint and improve the appearance of the structure.

Option 2 – leveling the opening with plasterboard

This is a simpler solution, which is used in cases where you need to quickly and efficiently align the contours of the opening. There is much less work here than in the option described above, but you still need to carefully understand all the nuances of the technology.

To work we need the following:

Drywall - its quantity is determined in advance, most often one sheet is enough;
The adhesive composition for drywall is special mixture on a gypsum base, which dries very quickly and firmly fixes the material on various substrates;
The tools you need are a knife for cutting drywall, a tape measure and a pencil for marking, a level to control the position of the elements, and a container for preparing the adhesive.

The workflow consists of several stages:

First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the opening: clean it of dirt, build-up of solution and other elements that interfere with work. If there is significant damage to the base, it is easier to repair it cement mortar, there is no need to draw the planes perfectly, it is important to strengthen them and make them more or less even;
Then the opening is measured to determine the size of the plasterboard elements. First of all, I advise cutting out only the top element and only after fixing it, cutting the sidewalls; the width should be equal to the thickness of the wall, the length should allow the material to be positioned freely in the opening;

Before attaching drywall, I advise treating the surfaces with a strengthening primer, this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive and reduce the absorption of the base.

The adhesive composition is applied to the material in massive dots or, as builders call them, slaps. The element is carefully pressed against the top of the slope, after which you need to use a level to set it to a perfectly level position. If you are concerned about the reliability of the fixation, you can use 1-2 spacers, they can be removed after half an hour, the glue sets very quickly;

Next, measurements are taken of the side elements, pieces of drywall are cut out and glued in the same way as on the top part. It’s easier to work with side slopes; the most important thing is to remember to level them using a level; it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to correct the curvature later;
When the composition dries, and this only takes a couple of hours, you can begin finishing the structure; the gaps between the wall and the ends of the drywall can be filled with the same adhesive composition. Corners are placed on the corners to strengthen and level this part of the structure. IN last resort the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative paint.

The price of this option for finishing openings is low, but this solution has one significant drawback: the door cannot be fastened to such a surface, or you will have to drill a deep hole so that the anchor can reach the brick or concrete.

Option 3 – opening on a metal frame

If it is necessary to reduce the size of the opening or it is severely damaged, then the easiest way is to build a frame that will create structural rigidity and allow any base to be leveled. This option combines the two previous ones, since we will be working with concrete or other walls, and the plasterboard will be attached to a metal frame.

Let's look at the technology for carrying out the work:

First of all, the plaster is removed from one or both sides of the opening at a distance of 15-20 cm to the edge, this will allow the material to be aligned with the main surface and thereby significantly simplify the leveling process. Do not worry that you are removing a layer greater than the thickness of the drywall - this difference is compensated by the adhesive composition;
Then you need to use a level, tape measure and pencil to mark the position future design, you need to make its outlines on the floor and the top of the opening so that when carrying out work you have clear guidelines and do not confuse anything. The markings will also help you decide how to strengthen the structure and where to place the frame elements;

The next stage is attaching the starting profile in the required places. Most often you need to cut small elements and fasten them with dowels or self-tapping screws. The markings made earlier serve as a guide; everything is very simple and convenient;

If you need to reduce the opening in height, then the frame is made in the upper part, its dimensions depend on the thickness of the walls, but remember that plasterboard will be attached on both sides, which means that there must be at least 13 mm from the frame to the plane of the wall. That is, after sheathing the structure, the surface should be leveled;

If doorways are made of plasterboard, then on the side of hanging the canvas it is advisable to strengthen the structure as I described above. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the system, so it is better to play it safe and strengthen it so that it can withstand even the heaviest door;
When the frame is ready, you can begin measuring the dimensions of the drywall, cutting and attaching them.. Moreover, the material is not attached in the usual way: if it comes to the surface of the wall, then there it sits on the plaster adhesive composition, and in places where there is a frame, drywall is attached to it. In the end it turns out very reliable design, the main thing is to monitor the location of the sheets using a level;
The last step is to putty the structure, there are several simple recommendations: corners must be used; at the joints the plane can be strengthened using a sickle mesh of the required width. It is important to make the plane level so that the joint between the plaster and the plaster is not visible at all.

Option 4 – construction of an arch

All three options described above differed in implementation technology and design, but all of them were a straight-sided opening the right size. But if you decide to make an arch, then this section will help you get the job done. This technology is suitable for all the above cases.

I will not talk about the entire working process, but will dwell in detail only on the curved part. This is the most difficult element that you should understand as best as possible.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

First of all, you need to figure out what your arch will look like; the dimensions of the frame and the installation of the structure depend on what shape you choose. When you decide, you can start attaching the base for the structure; it is made from a wall profile and is located on the top and side so as not to interfere with the curved elements that will be installed later;
Then you need to make a blank for the curved element; for this, take a guide profile and make even cuts on it opposite each other at a distance of 3-4 cm along the entire length. The profile prepared in this way can be given the required shape later;

Next, the element is bent the way we need it, it’s important to try it on ready product to the opening to control the dimensions and, if necessary, cut off the excess part. To simplify the work and improve the final result, be sure to make the second arched element in the shape of the first, and do not bend it separately, so you can get two identical parts;

The arched parts are fastened to a previously installed base; for rigidity, spacers can be installed at any angle in any place. Between themselves arched elements connected via jumpers. You can also use hangers if you need to additionally secure part of the profile somewhere, it all depends on your design, it is important that in the end it turns out strong;

When the structure is secured, you can begin sheathing front sides, that is, sections of the wall at the top of the opening. Here it is very important to accurately cut out the oval side, since it will be very difficult to remove it with putty later. You must transfer the exact curve to the material and cut it out, after which the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, you need everything to match as best as possible;

First you need to cut a strip of drywall to the required length, everything is simple: we measure the width and length of the curved part using a tape measure and transfer these indicators to the material;
Using a special needle roller, you need to make holes in back side drywall, it is easy to identify it by the inscriptions. You just need to go through this device, pressing it well, you shouldn’t be too zealous, otherwise you may ruin the piece and have to cut off another one;

The punched surface is moistened with water and left for a couple of minutes, after which the material can be bent. This should be done carefully, it is important not to damage the drywall;
Fastening is done with an assistant - one person holds the bent material, and the second fixes it with self-tapping screws. After drying, the structure will become rigid;

I recommend attaching a special arched corner to the outer corners of the curved areas, and it is advisable to first cover the entire surface with fiberglass for strength. After this, you need to carry out putty work, the end result will be durable and reliable if you follow all the recommendations described above.

People sometimes ask me, is it possible to make a door out of plasterboard? In fact, this is possible, but the reliability of such a product will not be very high; it is much more reasonable to buy a ready-made design.

Conclusion

It is much easier to build an opening from plasterboard than from any other material, so almost anyone who has the desire to carry out the work themselves can handle the job. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under this review.

October 22, 2016

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