Knots frame house they name important places that must be built in a certain way so that they fulfill the role that is inherent in them by technology.
Several dogmas of frame housing construction.
1. The frame house must be assembled on nails. Any statements that it can be assembled using screws or corners are unnecessary myths for frame house construction. Builders all over the world are building frame houses on nails(except for the Japanese, who build them on huge wooden pins and from huge timber, but not on self-tapping screws). The hack builders will try to convince you otherwise, but don’t believe them. Trust me and the building codes.
2. In a frame house practically not used iron corners. They are not needed there. The exception is working with trusses, where they are used for ease of installation. This rule does not apply to steel “boots”, which are used to hang the joists of a house or terrace from the beams “from the side”. Although this connection can often be replaced with a “support board” connection.
3. For a frame house they are used nails 90 mm(frame) and 60-70 mm (floor and trim). Large nails are not required even when working with a 50 mm thick board, and even more so if you have frame house from a board 40 mm thick. Reinsurance with the use of large nails is unnecessary and only leads to an increase in the value of the house.
So, let's move on to specific nodes and nail fights in them.
Frame house floor
How to nail a second floor joist frame to a double wall frame (this is also true for the first floor):
Fastening the joists of the second floor (also valid for the first floor):
The impact of nails in the floor joists through the joist strapping (this is also true for the first floor, where instead of the strapping there is a bench or):
Nail connection of the floor joist on the central load-bearing wall frame:
How many nails need to be driven into the joist lintel above the central support:
Marking subfloor slabs
Subfloor and its fastening to the floor joists (this is also true for covering walls with slab material):
Frame house walls
Hammering nails into bottom trim walls: 
Upper frame of the house wall to the wall studs:
We knock down the wall frame posts to the bottom frame and subfloor:
We attach the frame racks in the middle of the house to the bottom frame and floor joists in the middle of the house:
The second upper frame of the house is attached to the bottom frame and racks frame wall:
Double post of the opening for the header:
Nails in the header of a window (opening) at home:
Jib in the wall of the house:
Additional board for attaching gypsum boards to the ceiling:
The importance of choosing the right fasteners when constructing a frame building is beyond doubt. In this case, when connecting different elements and parts of a building, the type of hardware suitable for a particular situation should be used. Of course, in most buildings erected according to frame technology, the main type of fasteners are nails.
Types of fasteners used in frame house construction
In today's frame housing construction apply the following types fasteners:
- Nails. Traditional option devices of various nodes wooden houses. It is a wedge driven into wood. They are used to connect almost all elements and parts of a frame house, with rare exceptions;
- Self-tapping screws. They are immersed in the material by screwing, which is accessible due to the presence of a screw thread. The main place of use is sheathing and cladding;
- Staples. Partially driven into wood or other materials. They are used mainly for cladding frame houses;
- Hairpins. They are a bolted connection. They are made of galvanized steel and are used for fastening beams, rafters and other most massive and critical load-bearing structures.
The above list shows that only nails are used at any stage of the construction of a frame house. This is explained by the presence of a number of significant advantages of this type of fastener.
Advantages of nails over self-tapping screws
The main advantages of nails compared to self-tapping screws with similar parameters are as follows:
- A stable position of the nail inside the wood, which is achieved by pressure exerted on the fastener from all sides;
- The ability to withstand constant temperature and humidity deformations characteristic of wood, which destroy the screw threads of self-tapping screws and make their position in the material unstable;
- Ability to withstand severe lateral loads typical of hinged joints frame houses and easily breaking self-tapping screws made of red-hot iron.
As a result, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws in frame house construction only in units where the main load is the pull-off effect, for example, when installing sheathing, fastening mineral wool, chipboard or siding.
Types of nails and their functional purpose
Nails that are used in today's frame construction, are high-tech hardware of several types. The most commonly used:
- Galvanized regular and screw (another name is rough, ring). The use of this type of fastener is a mandatory requirement when constructing external structures of a building. Screw, ring or rough nails are equipped with a special notch various shapes, increasing friction in the nodes and, as a result, the rigidity of the frame;
- Black regular and screw. Used for connection individual elements and structures located inside the building. The use of non-galvanized nails is a way to save money during construction, however, not all professional builders use this option in practice;
- Nails for nailers. They are special hardware that is immersed in wood using special tool without shock load;
- Tar paper nails, black and galvanized. They are small in size and used for cladding various slabs or fastening rolled insulating materials.
The number of types of nails used in frame construction is not limited to the above list. Moreover, modern manufacturers regularly present various improvements to this seemingly simple and common fastening hardware.
Building a frame house is similar to assembling a construction set. The wooden frame house is assembled in accordance with the diagram. At the same time, the strength and reliability of the future structure depends on the quality of the assembly components. What are the features of the main components and connections of a frame house? And how to properly fix the lower and upper trims, racks, jibs, and crossbars?
Bottom trim connection nodes
The lower one is a frame made of wooden beams or several boards knocked together, which is laid on top. So-called planks - boards - are placed on the concrete foundation under the bottom frame. They perform the main function - they level the foundation and hide those flaws that could have been made during its pouring.
The beds are attached to the concrete foundation using anchors. The installation sites are located at a distance of no more than 0.5 mm. In this case, at least the ends of the beams are secured with anchors.
Connection of the beam to the concrete foundation.
To install anchors, holes of a certain depth are drilled. They pass through the board and go deep into the thickness of the concrete foundation. The depth of drilling and driving in the anchor is determined by the height of the house wall and the design of the foundation. For traditional 2.5-3 m frame wall on concrete base The depth of lowering the anchor into concrete is 15-20 cm.
The second option for installing anchors is to concrete the anchor studs during the process of pouring the foundation. When casting concrete slab or tapes in specified places, hollow cones with internal thread. After the concrete has hardened, anchors are screwed into these elongated cone-shaped studs.
Features of the anchor connection
- The holes in the beam are drilled 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the anchor pin.
- Wide washers can be placed under the heads of the anchor bolts to increase the area of their contact with the wooden surface, and increase the strength of the fastening connection.
Anchoring bottom trim. Before fixing, mandatory waterproofing is carried out - roofing material is placed on the concrete or its surface is covered with a special waterproof compound, mastic. After installation, check the horizon. Deviations from the horizontal level are allowed in dimensions of no more than 0.5° per 3 m.
Bottom trim assembly on a columnar foundation
The fastening of structural units of a frame house described above is used on strip and slab foundations. For columnar bases, a different scheme is used:
- For ease of fastening, the upper part of the columnar supports should have a flat horizontal head with holes.
- Place on top of the headrest wooden beams, which perform the function of a grillage.
- Recesses of the required depth are drilled in the beams. They are drilled under the holes in the headband.
- Fix the beam with bolts or screws.
Trimmed plank strapping on pile foundation. On a note
It is necessary to attach the timber to the foundation. Shallowly buried strips and slabs are subject to significant movement when freezing. Reliable connection The upper and lower frame ensures the reliability and durability of the entire structure.
Design of frame house components
Vertical frame posts are installed on top of the lower frame and secured with nails. Fastening with metal corners used for T-shaped connection of beams without cutting. It's easier to do. Fixing beams with metal nails is used at the junction with partial cutting of the lower beam. This is a more difficult connection to make with your own hands.
A joint without cutting is used for corner frame supports. Butt joints with fixation with plates or corners are used in the main components of a frame house, if the construction is carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of professionals. If they work experienced builders, then they use a partial insertion connection. It prevents strong movements of the timber and frame boards when drying out.
On a note
The size of the cutting for the vertical frame post is 30-50% of the thickness of the bottom trim beam.
The corner joint without cutting is fixed with metal plates using wood screws. In this case, reinforced steel corners with several perforations are used. As well as durable self-tapping screws in light golden and silver colors.
Strengthening the corners for fastening the corners of the house is carried out due to technological processing - the metal plates are hardened during the manufacturing process. Either through the use of metal with large thickness sections, up to 2-3 mm.
Methods of fastening racks. A notch joint is often used to attach studs in the middle of a wall. The supports are inserted into the prepared recesses and additionally secured with nails. Then they are secured in a vertical position with jibs - diagonally inclined slats that rest against a vertical post on one side and a horizontal frame on the other. For ease of support, the ends of the jib are made beveled - part of the end is cut off.
Temporary jib
During the assembly of the frame, temporary jibs are also installed, which fix several vertical posts. Temporary jibs are placed between the upper and lower trim at an angle. They connect several vertical posts and are fixed with nails.
Temporary jibs are placed with outside frame. To attach them, you do not need to cut down, but they need to be fixed in such a way that upon completion of construction, the temporary auxiliary beams can be easily dismantled. Therefore, nails are used to fix them.
Temporary jibs for racks. Temporary jibs hold the posts upright until permanent jibs are installed at the bottom and top of each rack. Once the permanent jibs are in place, the temporary fixing beams can be removed.
On a note
The construction project contains a description of the frame components wooden house in the drawings. They often do not describe in detail the method of attaching temporary jibs, since they do not bear the main load and support the frame temporarily.
Upper harness knots
The top frame of the frame house is laid on vertical frame supports after installing the corner posts. If the perimeter of the house is large enough (more than 6 m), then in addition to the corner pillars, intermediate ones are also placed - in the middle of the wall. And only after that the top harness is placed.
After laying the top row, temporary jibs are attached - across the entire wall. Next, attach the remaining vertical racks and jibs to them. After which the temporary jibs between the upper and lower trim are removed.
It is most convenient to assemble the walls of a frame house in a lying position, knocking together the lower frame, vertical posts, crossbar, jibs and top frame. And only after that, raise the walls to a vertical position, where all that remains is to fasten all the walls of the house together. To firmly connect the walls of a frame house, a second top frame is used, which is overlapped with the first top frame.
Double top knots. When using a double top trim, you can do without the use of steel corners. In this case, there is no need to partially cut off the ends of the boards, making a “claw” connection. Because such connections with cutting out part of the end violate the integrity of the board and, accordingly, weaken it.
Beams are placed on top of the second top frame interfloor covering. The beams are laid on the end, the distance between the beams is set depending on the size of the spans and fastened with nails.
Wall corner
The corner of a frame house is the place of maximum heat loss. As a rule, it is in the corners that condensation accumulates and it is them that need to be insulated first. Therefore, even at the stage of assembling the frame, it is necessary to ensure that the corners of the future frame house are warm. How to do it?
Smooth fixing plates are placed on the outside of the vertical beam. They connect adjacent single-level surfaces of the vertical post and horizontal beams. The fixing corners are located on the side. They connect mutually perpendicular surfaces. What else is important to know about angles?
During construction in regions with cold climates, non-solid material is used as vertical posts. wooden beam, and assemble a corner post from separate boards. The resulting structure resembles a well. In it inner space install insulation that retains heat and limits possible heat loss.
Installation of corners in the frame of the house. It must also be warm, for this purpose single racks are used, but the load from window and doorways removed using a bolt. The crossbar is fastened along the entire length of the frame wall by cutting into all vertical posts. It is important to take into account that under each window opening There should be at least 1-2 vertical support boards.
Knots of the rafter system
To nodes rafter system include all connections between its elements, namely:
- Fastening floor beams to top harness.
- Attaching the rafter beam to the top trim.
- Fastening the racks on the gables to the top trim and to the outer rafters.
- Attaching the internal posts to the rafter beam and to the ridge.
- Fastening struts - inclined beams that support the rafters and rest on the beam.
- Attaching the crossbar to inclined rafters.
- Fastening the sheathing.
Knots of the rafter system. The fastenings listed above can be done using corners or using nails if the elements of the rafter system are connected overlapping each other.
Fasteners
The following elements are used as fasteners for the components of a frame wooden house:
- Fastening plates (angles or flat plates with or without holes). Plates and angles are attached to beams or supports using wood screws.
- Staples (straight and angular) are wire fasteners of a certain diameter. Their edges are folded and inserted into the ends or side surfaces beams
- Bolts - used to tighten adjacent beams and rafters, inserted into through holes and secure them with nuts.
- Nails.
All connecting, fixing and fastening elements for frame buildings are made of metal. To fasten load-bearing elements, reinforced corners made of hardened steel or increased thickness, 3-4 mm, are used. To fasten the supporting elements, angles made of ordinary steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used.
Variety of fastening elements. In order to protect against corrosion, galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of corners and plates. Rust protection is especially important in outdoor construction, when metal fasteners in walls can become a point of moisture condensation, causing a section of the wall to become wet. Therefore, galvanized fasteners are in great demand in various components of a frame house.
Node connection errors
A drawing of components requires the presence of sketches and descriptions. However, despite this, novice builders often make offensive mistakes. Let's list the main and most frequently repeated erroneous actions that novice individual builders make when assembling a frame:
Not all jibs are installed. This is not true. The jibs ensure the wall's resistance to wind loads. In addition to the jibs, to withstand the wind it is necessary to use rigid slabs in the outer cladding.
- Use as corner posts solid timber or boards placed tightly next to each other. This corner will be cold. Moisture will condense and mold will develop.
- Use “black” screws for fastening. They are not strong enough, especially if not enough was purchased for construction. dry wood. When drying and warping, the “black” screws can be simply “torn off”. More durable option– self-tapping screws of golden and silver color, coated with galvanization or a layer of chromating, phosphating.
- They use wood that is not dry enough, which causes severe shrinkage and “breaks” existing nodes and connections.
- And another mistake is not to use nails. These proven fasteners are often stronger than any self-tapping screws.
Frame construction – new technology, in which, despite its apparent simplicity, there are many nuances and features.
Basic and most common connections in a frame house easier and more reliable to perform using special fasteners. Each of them has its own fasteners, ensuring the strength and stability of the entire structure. It is easy to use and allows you to avoid such labor-intensive connections as inserting “half-wood” or various “locks”.
Connecting fasteners for assembling frame wooden building structures has been used for a long time: tightening brackets, bolts and clamps. Very often used in the construction of frame houses. Today it has become more diverse and perfect. Fasteners not only simplify and speed up the assembly of building structures, but also make them stronger and more stable. Fasteners are most effectively used in the construction of prefabricated frame houses. Connecting fasteners for assembling construction wooden structures too diverse to be described in one article. Therefore, using the example of a frame house, we will consider only part of the fasteners, but the most used and mass-produced.
Connection fastener made from cold rolled steel sheet 2.0 - 4.0 mm thick, in the form of perforated (with holes) plates, corners, holders, supports for beams, connectors (plates with needle spikes - connectors), as well as shoes for load-bearing posts and columns, mounted directly on the foundation . Depending on the purpose (the dimensions of the parts to be connected and the loads transferred to them), each type of such fastener is presented in several versions: by size, perforation configuration (holes) and even with additional elements(ribs) of increased rigidity.
The perforation of the fasteners regulates the thickness of the nails and tightening bolts, as well as their number: on the one hand, they are enough to securely fix the connection, on the other hand, cracking of the wood does not occur. Such fasteners can have various coatings that protect them from corrosion: zinc, primer or polymer powder paint. Part of the connecting fasteners is also used for repair work(for example, a corner when constructing a frame internal partitions). Therefore, when choosing such fasteners (standard sizes, metal thickness, design option, perforation, stiffeners and protective covering), you should imagine what loads it will experience during operation.
The connecting fastener has a number undeniable advantages before classical connections in the construction of low-rise wooden houses and, first of all, prefabricated frame houses, in which a lot of different nodal connections have to be made.
Firstly, there is no need to make labor-intensive and skill-requiring classical connections such as half-timber inserts or tie-locks. There is no splitting of wooden structures due to excessive large quantity and sizes of nails and bolts: the normalized perforation of fasteners (holes) does not allow the use of too thick nails and driving them close to the edge of the bar.
Secondly, the classic tie-in leads to a decrease in the strength of the beam due to a reduction in its cross-section at the joints (wood removal). Steel connecting fasteners, on the contrary, create additional reinforcement for the design of the units.
: Used in butt joints that are subject to tensile loads, such as splicing timber for tightening or making roof trusses.
Fastening plates are used in connections subject to tensile loads. They are applied to the connection on both sides and tightened: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. The dimensions of the holes determine the diameter of the bolts and nails used: their task is to provide the necessary strength of the connection, preventing splitting of the wood.
: used in various corner connections(walls, racks with a supporting frame, tie beams, roof rafters, etc.). An angle with a stiffener has more high stability to bending loads.
Fastening angles are used for angular connections between walls or an upper tie beam with a roof truss. Available in various standard sizes and several designs, including those reinforced with a stiffener. The corners are applied to the joint on both sides and tightened: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. Bolts for fixation are used only in particularly strong connections.
Installation of beams attic floor or roof rafters using mounting angles. Perforation of fasteners ensures the optimal number, thickness and location of nails in terms of the loads occurring in the joint and eliminates splitting of wood. Corners with a stiffener are more resistant to bending loads.
Beam holders and supports
Beam holders and supports: indispensable for constructing floors (floors and attics) in frame houses. Withstands high tensile loads in various corner joints. The holder is designed for fixing a floor beam to a wall, column or other beam during construction. The support (or shoe) allows you to install the beam on the walls or columns of an already erected building (during reconstruction).
The support can be universal (consists of separate left-handed and right-handed elements) - suitable for beams of any section, and specialized - for beams of a specific section. In addition, the support can be designed for open mounting or for finishing. Shoes for posts and columns: The shoe is bolted or poured with concrete into the foundation or foundation. Its design allows, even after installation, to adjust its height (± 25 mm).
The beam holder is used when installing wooden floors when it lies with its ends on walls or other beams. Each connection is fixed on both sides. Therefore, the holder can be left-handed or right-handed. It is nailed down. The number and size of nails are regulated by holes with a diameter of 5 mm.
Consists of two individual parts- left-handed and right-handed and suitable for beams of various sections. The connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. Mostly such supports are produced in one standard size and from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm.
It is designed for a specific beam section and is available in several standard sizes and two design options: 1 and 3 - for subsequent finishing in order to hide their vertical “wings” curved outward for fasteners; 2 - without subsequent finishing (“wings” are hidden).
Beam support is used when constructing wooden floors, when it cannot be supported on the walls or columns themselves (for example, installing a floor in an existing building). Each connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. In our example, two short beams are connected by supports through central pillar — practical solution a frequently occurring problem.
Shoes for load-bearing posts and columns are installed (anchored) in concrete foundation during its pouring (and bolted to the finished one). Exist various designs shoes: 1 and 4 - for pouring in concrete; 2 and 3 - fastened with bolts; 1 and 2 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 3 and 4 - the shoe is cut into the rack; All structures, once mounted, can be rotated around their own axis and adjusted in height.
The rack or column is installed on the mounted shoe and fixed required quantity bolts: 1 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 2 - the shoe is cut into the rack. In this state, the stand can be rotated to the desired angle around the axis and adjusted in height within a range of ± 25 mm.
Connectors
Connectors: designed for complex joint connections in roof trusses spanning spans of 7.5 meters or more. The connector is a flat plate, in the body of which needle nails (or spikes) of a certain configuration are cut out by stamping. They are made both in the form of plates with specific dimensions, and as a tape (25 - 152 mm wide), cut to the required length. The connectors are pressed with spikes into the wood (across the grain) on both sides of the connection. The principle of working with connectors is well understood using the example of installing a roof truss, where two connectors (on 2 sides) allow you to assemble an assembly from 3 parts at once.
Connectors - special connecting fasteners
Connectors are special connecting fasteners. It allows you to assemble and strengthen complex joint connections of 3 or more parts, for example, in roof trusses with spans of more than 7.5 m. The connector is a flat plate with needle-shaped spikes cut into its body. They are made in the form of ready-made plates with specific dimensions or tapes (25 - 152 mm wide). They are pressed with tenons into the wood on both sides of the joint.
When creating a modern frame structure, they use self-tapping screws, nails or screws. This is enough convenient option fasteners And in ancient times, such wooden structures were created without a single nail or screw. The craftsmen knew how to create a hidden tongue and groove. This mount was very strong. Created several centuries ago, Western European half-timbered houses They still live today, because the tenon and groove that carpenters of that time used was a skill without which it was impossible to build a frame house. Most likely, nails and various staples already existed, but they were not used at that time, due to their extreme high cost. The tongue-and-groove fastening is largely justified because it connects wood to wood, and this is considered more expedient than fastening wood to wood with self-tapping screws or nails. And yet, today self-tapping screws and nails are a popular type of hardware, and craftsmen who have mastered the skill of making precise and reliable type“Slant tooth” and “dovetail” are almost non-existent today. Although such alternative connections are quite acceptable and even preferable in our time.
Strength frame structure and its rigidity depends not only on the quality of the connections and the quality of the material used itself, but also on the method of fastening and well-distributed loads at the design stage. If the connections are made incorrectly or overloaded, they will soon manifest themselves with singing sounds and creaks. To prevent the structure from becoming loose, you must strictly follow the assembly technology and monitor the quality of assembly of the frame elements. To prevent self-tapping screws from corroding, they must be galvanized or otherwise treated against corrosion. You can additionally dip them in drying oil, primer or some other protective composition during screwing or process well after, although this will be less effective.
In fact, nails are successfully replaced with various types of self-tapping screws. Because they have a number of advantages. The main advantage is that they securely fasten all the elements. Unlike a nail, a self-tapping screw has a thread. This allows it to be screwed into any materials: be it wood, plastic, drywall, plywood or metal. For metal, special self-tapping screws are used, with a stronger structure and smaller threads. In addition, self-tapping screws, with the same length as a nail, have increased strength in terms of tensile strength. Even a small self-tapping screw will hold any material firmly, and most likely will not loosen over time, as can happen with a nail when assembling furniture. This allows you to successfully use self-tapping screws where nails can damage appearance. And what’s also important is that the self-tapping screws can be easily removed if necessary, since they have threads and a slot for unscrewing.
A few tips and tricks for using self-tapping screws and nails in construction
The number of nails used does not guarantee the strength of the structure.
You need to place nails “wisely”. It is advisable not to hit them at the edge of the board so as not to split them. It is better to hammer nails at an angle - this way they hold more securely.
If you need to hammer a nail into a certain place, but there is a risk of splitting the board, first blunt the point; the nail will not push the fibers apart and split the board, but will crush them.
It is advisable to select the length of the nail in such a way that it does not protrude slightly from the material to which we are nailing. A nail that is too thin will not hold well. Long - it takes a long time to score, and it won’t be stronger if it comes out or splits the board.
Where the structure “works to be pulled off,” it is better to use self-tapping screws of the required diameter instead of nails. It's more reliable.
Self-tapping screws are also preferable where any vibrations are transmitted to the structure, for example: doors, windows; and also where we carry out wood paneling with any other material: fiberboard, fiberboard, plywood, plastic, etc., as well as when attaching to wooden structures, for example: metal wire hangers, flagpoles, etc. In such places, the nails “come out” over time, and you have to finish them off, which does not add strength. It is better to immediately replace such a “live” nail with a self-tapping screw or screw.
Self-tapping screws are also used in those places that will probably have to be disassembled later; this will make disassembly easier and will not damage the material being disassembled.
To prevent the self-tapping screw from splitting the wood when screwing, you can pre-drill a hole of the same or smaller diameter.
It is much easier to tighten the self-tapping screw if you lubricate it with soap or dip it in oil.
A drill with a bit or screwdriver installed in its chuck will help you quickly tighten many self-tapping screws. If possible, use a special screwdriver. It will, of course, be more convenient for them to work. In this case, the assembly speed on self-tapping screws will be the same as on nails.
In chapter, Download documents, instructions, programs There is a document: Connections with nails, screws and screws. Selection of fasteners for wooden house construction, requirements and test methods.
The standard was prepared by the Wooden House Construction Association within the framework of the adopted program “General program of work on regulatory and technical support for the production and use of wooden structures.” A very detailed document with explanations: what fasteners to use and where, their type and size.
And now another fact: what happened to the screws in just a few rainy days.
In the summer of 2013, the porch of my house was painted. Before painting in the middle of summer, all the boards were removed (luckily everything was held on by galvanized screws). The boards were lightly sanded with a hand-held electric planer so that burrs would not stick out and the paint would go on more evenly. Since the boards had completely dried out in a couple of years and had been trimmed, we had to screw them into new places close to each other, but without much fanaticism. Everything was done quickly without any gaps and painted with a covering antiseptic "Vinha", which was used to paint the whole house. Imagine my surprise when, having arrived at the dacha in the fall (the fall turned out to be unusually rainy), I discovered that where the boards at the bottom were screwed onto one solid beam of the porch frame, the boards were torn off and extended beyond the porch by almost 5 cm! Taking into account the fact that the boards are no more than 1.8 m in width, and they were not exposed to direct precipitation (maximum rare slanting rains on a well-painted surface).
Since it was already quite cold, I did not do anything, leaving it to next year. The first photo below shows what happened to the galvanized 4x40 mm self-tapping screws: the self-tapping screws in the six outer boards (out of a total of twenty) were broken into 3 parts. The first part - the head and body 0.8-1 cm was in the board outside, part of the body about 1-1.5 cm protruded from the board inside, and about 2 cm remained in the beam of the porch frame, of which only a few pieces turned out, and most Couldn't catch it. Therefore, I had to screw the boards with self-tapping screws at a slight angle so as not to get into the debris remaining in the timber, Fig. 2.