Most room finishing options require additional knowledge and skills. Drywall is easy to work with. It helps to level walls, erect partitions between rooms, decorate the ceiling and much more. To work with it you need certain materials and tools. You can make repairs in your house using drywall yourself.
Plasterboard sheets have become in particular demand during renovations. Each type of material requires knowledge and experience in working with it. This applies to fastening and installation rules auxiliary materials and technical gear.
Fastening profiles for mounting plasterboard sheets
Nowadays, any renovation cannot be done without such material as drywall. Due to its large number of varieties, there are special methods of fastening. Thus, for those who make repairs, it is important to know how to attach a drywall profile.
Main types of drywall
The technical process for making drywall is gaining momentum in new directions. Modern technology does not stand still, which means that the range of drywall is also changing. New species also have best properties and indicators for construction.
In general, the concept of a sheet of drywall is durable material for finishing work. There are sheets different lengths and width. There are several types of drywall material:
- regular plasterboard;
- moisture resistant;
- fire resistant;
- moisture- and fire-resistant.
Each type of gypsum board has its own strict purpose. Regular sheets are ideal for decorating rooms where there is no high humidity and there is no fire. It is suitable for bedrooms, corridors, living rooms. You can work with it on both walls and ceilings.
we use special moisture resistant drywall for finishing bathrooms and toilets Moisture-resistant, ideal for bathrooms and toilets. It's different and special composition, which does not allow fungus and mold to appear on the material.
Fire resistant ideal for finishing kitchens and areas near fireplaces. Deformation of the material will occur only at very high temperatures.
The latter type can be used almost everywhere, because it combines all the best properties. But its cost quite often scares away those who are planning to make repairs.
It is known that types of drywall are divided depending on the brands. We are talking about size, standards and endurance. For clients there is wide choose manufacturers. And the cost of the material may vary significantly. Therefore choose quality material, on the one hand - not a problem, on the other hand - difficult task, if we consider it from the point of view of a huge assortment.
we attach drywall to the surface without using a frame The sheets are attached in two ways - directly to the wall, or using a profile.
The first option is suitable if the walls are smooth. For those whose walls in an apartment or house are not particularly smooth, ideal solution will be the construction of a special profile. Since wall mounting is a fairly simple option, it is worth considering working with a gypsum board profile.
The sheets should be attached to a special structure . They come in metal and wood. The housing structure is held together by fastening material. As a rule, nails and dowels are used to secure the profile. For wood and metal will be used various materials for fastening. There are flea self-tapping screws and bed bug self-tapping screws. The classification is complemented by self-tapping nails for profiles and shurpas. These parts are quite durable, because they serve as the basis for firmly securing the drywall structure.
Working with a profile. Stages of creating new walls
First, the walls are brought into proper shape. To do this, you usually simply remove the wallpaper. Before purchasing material, the area of the room is calculated and calculations are made regarding the future purchase. Usually, in construction stores specialists help carry out necessary calculations. Below are standard sizes sheets. They will help you calculate how much material will be needed for finishing.
Standard sizes of plasterboard sheet:
- classic – 12×1.2×2 m;
- moisture resistant – 12×1.2× m;
- fire-resistant – 12×1.2×2.5 m.
If the length along the wall is 2 meters and the width is 1.5, then the parameters are simply multiplied together. So, the result is 3 meters. That is, you will need 3 sheets of drywall.
Stores have their own rules for selling drywall. Some provide the opportunity to buy an already cut sheet. Since during the finishing process excess material remains.
By and large, the profile is an essential element for installing the overall drywall structure. Vertical and horizontal profiles are responsible for the balance of the entire deck. The standard layout is made of a metal alloy. Now exists modern approach for the production of profiles. Using special technology, it is possible to produce not only straight profiles, but also arched, curved, oval, rectangular and so on. It all depends on the idea of finishing.
For simple wall cladding you will need a rack profile. In construction, each type of material is related to each other.
The profile is not attached without a channel. The channel is a piece of metal under the frame.
The main part is called the back, and the side part is called the shelf. The dimensions of the rack profile are calculated taking into account the backs and racks. And the most common sizes are 50, 65, 75, 100 mm.
We fix the drywall to the wall using a rack frame Self-tapping screws will be required to hang it in the room. Their purpose will be important for connection and fixation. The cross installations and brackets will be connected. About 40 screws are used for one sheet. If the calculation is made for 3 sheets of drywall, then approximately 120 pieces will be needed.
It is difficult to count dowels and nails. They are sold individually and in packs. It would be best to buy a package. Nails, screws, bolts are never superfluous in repairs.
People making repairs will definitely be faced with the question of how to attach drywall profiles. We need to consider general rules for fastening. To build the structure you will need:
- direct suspension;
- drywall;
- profile;
- anchors;
- dowels-nails;
- drill;
- perforator;
Interestingly, there are different tricks for working with plasterboard. For example, if you cut and break cardboard, you need to remember about different options for this procedure. Having bought bent drywall, this does not mean that you will not have to break it. To cut large leaf you need to make a cut. It is advisable to make an incision on the side on one side. Care must be taken when working with the back of the profile. It cannot be deformed or ruined.
The permissible distance between compartments is up to 10 centimeters. As an average option, choose 5–7 centimeters.
To carve the profile, you should avoid working with an angle grinder. Inner layer zinc may be damaged. Due to the damaged surface, rusty streaks or stains may appear. Remember that spacing is important when cutting notches.
create shaped elements using drywall Options for decorating walls with figured plasterboard arches are found in many luxury houses, restaurants, cafeterias. In the case of complex ideas design will require even more knowledge. Finishing with plaster in this case will take a lot of time. Always, the more complex the design, the more time it will take to work with the profile. This applies to both walls and ceilings.
Whatever the parameters of the room, it will be necessary to take into account the drying time of the materials. It takes at least three days for the glue to dry. During finishing you will need to glue some parts.
Quite popular in the product line are such manufacturers as Knauf, Gyproc, Metaplist. They differ high quality metal structures, guarantee of long use, endurance, affordable prices, variety of assortment. To choose a quality product, customers need to know what to look for.
When choosing a profile for drywall, you need to know that it comes in two types:
- Main and rack type - the main part is made from this material. Drywall sheets are attached on top C-shaped with curved edges.
- Guide view - the main part is inserted into it.
Rack profiles are designated CW and PC. The guide profile has the designations UW and PN. Ceiling profile – CD and PP. The profile category also includes corner view. It levels and protects the corner surface.
make holes for dowels to secure the profile Using a hammer drill, the concrete is beaten and holes are made for the dowels. The hole distance depends on the size of the dowel. On average, recesses are made of about 4 mm. The dowel should be loosely attached, but not loose.
A drill is needed to attach drywall. If you use glue, then you will need a drill to attach the profile. Anchors perform the function of fastening. The anchor will be attached to the base to support the overall structure.
attaching the drywall profile to the wall Anchor products are made from of stainless steel, brass, aluminum. During fastening, the friction force and the shape of the anchor are taken into account. The purpose of the anchors depends on the location of the fastening.
If we talk about more complex forms and plasterboard partitions, then you will most likely need the help of professionals. In the case of installing a wall that will divide the room, it can be easily done alone. But if this wall has curved shape, then it will be more difficult. The same will happen with multi-level ceilings. Here, too, you need the help of a person who has already worked with similar structures.
So, how to attach a profile for drywall has become clear and accessible to someone who has never even dealt with this material.
In order for a structure made of plasterboard sheets on a wall or ceiling to be strong and reliable, you need to know how to attach a plasterboard profile correctly. And also - how to lengthen it, connect it to each other, what fastenings to use.
You won't have to rack your brains over these questions if you carefully study this article. The instructions for creating frames from metal profiles are simple and clear, the material itself is light and easy to work with, so you won’t have any problems.
Fastening the profile when creating a frame for gypsum boards
The problem of how to attach a profile under drywall is solved differently depending on what you are creating: a frame for a partition, for wall cladding or ceiling lining.
But in any case, the profiles have to be cut or extended in length, connected at an angle to each other, attached to the base, and sometimes bent. We will describe each of these procedures in detail.
Connecting profiles
Most often, it is necessary to connect two or more profiles in a straight line - to increase the length, or at right angles to each other - to connect adjacent guides and give the frame greater rigidity.
- Building up. If the three-meter length of one profile is not enough, it is connected to the second (or its segment) using a special connector.
The ends of two connecting profiles are inserted into it and fixed with short self-tapping screws with a press washer (builders often call them “bugs” or “seeds”).
For reference. Before fastening a drywall profile to another, it may be necessary to shorten it in length.
To do this, use metal scissors to cut its sides to the base, then break the profile, bending and straightening it several times.
- Cross connection. Mainly needed to create ceiling frames. You will not have any difficulties with how to properly attach the drywall profile crosswise if you use “crabs”.
All four profiles are inserted into the “crab” with their ends, snapped into it, after which the antennae of the connecting part are bent 90 degrees and screwed to the sides of the profiles with the same “bugs”.
Attention. You can do without “crabs”. To do this, you need to cut the transverse profiles along the fold with your own hands and break off or bend the sides. Then place them on the longitudinal profile and secure with “bugs”.
- T-joint. This is done either using the method just described, or using a “crab”, having previously trimmed off the excess part of the part.
Attention!
If you need to connect the guide and rack profiles, the latter is simply inserted into the first and screwed with one self-tapping screw.
Bending profiles
When creating arches, niches and complex ceiling structures, profiles sometimes need to be bent.
How to do this - watch the video posted on our website.
- If you cut both sides of the profile to the back, it will bend along it as you need. The steeper the required bend radius, the smaller the distance between cuts should be.
- If you cut one of the sides and continue the cut along the back, the drywall profile will bend along the second side.
Fastening profiles
The answer to the question of how to properly attach a profile under drywall depends on what distance should be maintained between the base and the cladding, as well as on the material of this base.
More precisely, the fastening of the profile for drywall occurs in two stages. First, hangers are attached to the base, and only then profiles are fixed on them, which are then set to a given level.
- A hanger with a spoke is used for installing plasterboard suspended ceilings. It consists of a shaped metal plate to which the profile is attached, an expansion element and a rod (spokes).
At the end of the knitting needle there is a hook through which the suspension is attached to the base. Using the expanding element, the rod is released to the desired length.
The choice of fasteners depends not on the type of suspension, but on the material of the supporting base. If it is wood, you can use regular wood screws or nails.
Attention!
Suspensions are attached to the ceiling only with self-tapping screws!
For mounting in brick or concrete base Dowel-nails are used, for which it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the dowel for drywall.
For hollow brick or aerated concrete, it is better to choose dowels with transverse notches and spacer whiskers.
The strength of the entire structure depends on how the suspensions are fixed.
But here it is important not only the reliability of the fastening, but also the correct determination of their position, since the profiles for drywall need to be fastened at a certain distance from each other.
- The width of the gypsum board sheet is 120 cm, so the profiles should be located parallel to each other at a distance of 40 or 60 cm between the axes. This will allow you to attach two adjacent sheets to one extreme profile.
- The suspensions are fixed strictly on one line, which is marked in advance. Deviating from it will not allow you to set a profile.
For reference. If there are no hangers, they can be made from PS profile scraps. To do this, they are cut along the sides, bent in an L shape and attached to the wall.
The price of such fastening will be minimal, and the reliability will be high.
Attaching the profile to the hangers
The profile is attached to direct hangers with short self-tapping screws with a press washer. In one of the pictures above, you have already seen that after twisting, the legs of the suspension, protruding beyond the profile, bend to the sides.
To hangers with traction, depending on their design, the profile is either screwed with the same screws or simply snapped onto special protrusions.
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
During my career, I had to work a lot with drywall and build the most various designs. When constructing a frame, the reliability of the structure depends on how firmly the connection of the profiles is made. This work can be done in different ways, sometimes you can use best option, and sometimes proceed from the current situation and use what is at hand.
We will figure out what options for carrying out work can be used and what to pay attention to Special attention to achieve best result. All technologies are easy to implement and do not require any special skills; the main thing is to have everything you need at hand and follow the recommendations outlined below.
Technology No. 1 – use of special elements
Modern manufacturers produce a range of components for mounting metal profile frames. Special connections for drywall profiles can have different configurations, I will tell you about the most popular and convenient ones. The information is presented in table form to help you understand it better.
| product name | Purpose and design features |
| Profile extension | It is used to lengthen the main (60x27) profile and is a special insert that accurately aligns the elements with each other and strengthens the junction. The products are made of galvanized metal, the thickness of which must be at least 0.9 mm; for ease of alignment, there may be a special protrusion in the middle into which the ends of the profile rest. |
| Single-level connector “Crab” | It is this one that is shown in the photo above; this option is used to connect the main profile in one plane. The design is such that installation is quick and reliable; you do not need to perfectly fit the elements, they are simply inserted into the crab and fixed with self-tapping screws. Products must be quite rigid, because they are subject to considerable load |
| Two-level connector | If you need to connect two profiles that are located one below the other, then this element will become the best solution. With its help, the structure is quickly assembled and high reliability of fixation is achieved. Such options are rarely used in private development, however, their convenience is undeniable |
| Side connector | And this type of product is completely unfamiliar to our developers. But with its help, making T-shaped connections is much easier and faster, so I recommend using such connectors if you need to fasten two perpendicular profiles |
To accurately calculate the required amount of fasteners, the easiest way is to make a sketch of the future frame and draw all its elements. This makes it much easier to figure out how much and what kind of fasteners you need, and you don’t have to travel several times to buy additional products or think about how to return the remaining parts to the seller.
Necessary materials and equipment
Now let’s figure out how to properly connect a drywall profile using all the products described above.
In addition to the fasteners themselves, we will need Additional materials and tool:
- Self-tapping screws for fastening, in one of the previous reviews I spoke in detail about the main types and their features. Here I will only give a recommendation to use bugs (as experts call small self-tapping screws) with a sharp tip 9 or 11 mm long; the coating can be anything, this does not affect the quality of the product. As for quantity, the norm is 20-25 pieces per square meter designs, in fact it usually turns out this way;
- The screws are tightened using a screwdriver with a special attachment. All hardware used when installing drywall has a head for the PH2 slot, so buy several bits of this size, they may differ in length, it is most convenient for me to work with equipment 50 mm long, and for hard to reach places a longer length may be needed;
- When connecting profiles, they most often need to be cut, so make sure you have metal scissors on hand in advance. The simplest option will do, as long as the tool is sharp.
Installation of extension cords
The instructions for carrying out the work are different for each type of fastener; we will analyze these options separately and start by considering how to lengthen the rack profile for drywall:
- When building up racks, strength and geometric accuracy have special meaning, which is why be sure to use extension cords. If there are several options on sale, then choose the one that is made of thicker metal and has protrusions on the sides. Thanks to them, the profile will connect exactly in the middle of the fastener;
- First of all, you need to take measurements to determine the length of the elements to be fastened. Next, cutting is carried out; for this, the profile is marked using a tape measure and a felt-tip pen, after which the product is cut with metal scissors. Subtract 10-15 mm from the total length of the element that should be obtained to simplify further work;
- Now let's figure out how to lengthen the profile: first, the connector is inserted into the end of one of the profiles, after which a second piece is placed on the other side. The knot must fit tightly; if it dangles, the strength will suffer greatly. When you are sure that the stand is level, you need to fix the connection; screw in two self-tapping screws on each side to ensure maximum reliability;
Installation of crabs
We figured out how to build up the profile, now we’ll look at how to attach jumpers to the rack using a crab, the technology for doing the work yourself is as follows:
- First of all, it is necessary to take measurements in order to determine the length of all fastened elements. In this case, the size of the crossbars should be 5 mm less than the total length, this is necessary so that they fit normally in the structure and do not deform in it;
- The connector is inserted into the main rack with reverse side, this is done simply, because the product is adjusted to the profile dimensions. It is important to position it at the desired level and snap it all the way so that the element fits as tightly as possible;
- Then a jumper is inserted on one side, this is done simply: the profile is placed on the side and snaps onto the mount; if necessary, it needs to be moved closer to the rack so that the gap between the elements is minimal;
- There are protrusions with holes on each side; they are bent along the profile, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them. Everything is quite simple and quick, so after attaching one crab you will be well versed in this type of work;
- The second side is fixed in the same way. If you use a crab to attach the jumper on one side, then the second part can simply be cut off with metal scissors.
Installation of two-level connectors
A two-level connector is necessary in cases where you need to connect two main profiles located below each other or assemble a complex structure.
The element itself is a holder, in the lower part of which there are protrusions that fit into the grooves of the profile; they are the ones that hold the racks; no additional fasteners are used. In the upper part there are clamps that snap into the protrusions of the sides of the upper profile and prevent the unit from moving.
The installation process is quite simple:
- The connector is inserted into the upper profile in the required place, it fits exactly in size, so it will hold tight;
- The lower profile must be inserted so that the protrusions fit into the bends of the sides, due to this the structure will hold, so it is worth checking each connection for reliability, whether everything is located as it should be. If desired, the fasteners can be attached to the top profile through the holes in the connector.
Installation of side connectors
This type of fastener is ideal for attaching jumpers to a frame on one side. Most often it is used in multi-level ceiling systems and at frame junctions with walls. The connector is a product that is inserted into the end of the profile with one side, and the other clings to the side of the profile located perpendicularly.
Let's figure out how to use this element:
- First of all, it is necessary to take measurements in order to cut off pieces of the profile of the required length; they should be 5 mm less than the total distance;
- The fastener is inserted all the way into the end of the profile that we will attach; sometimes, in order to do this, it is necessary to apply considerable force;
- Next, the prepared element is simply hung on the side of the rack; an indication that you have done everything correctly is the even position of the profiles relative to each other. There is a protrusion on the hook that extends beyond the side and thus secures the mount;
- If desired, you can screw several self-tapping screws into the sides through the profile and connector and into the end of the rack through the hole in the fastener. This will prevent the unit from disconnecting under load.
Technology No. 2 – fastening with self-tapping screws
If I say that this option is used most often, I’m unlikely to be mistaken. After all, this method does not require the presence of any special elements or fasteners; what is already at hand is used. The advantage of this solution is its simplicity; the disadvantage is that the strength of the connections is not as high as when using the options described above.
This technology is suitable for structures that are not subject to special loads. This option is also relevant when assembling frames from rack-mount and non-standard profiles; it is difficult to find components for these materials, and sometimes only the method discussed in this chapter can help solve the problem.
Required materials and tools
Everything is very simple here, since we will use what should already be at hand when building the frame:
- The profile itself from which we will make the frame. In some cases we will notch it, and in others we will attach it as is;
- Metal screws with a sharp tip - never buy hardware with a drill, no matter what the sellers tell you, if they claim that this option is better, it means they have never assembled the frames themselves;
- Metal scissors will be needed to fit elements, in some cases you will have to cut a lot, so it is better to have a convenient tool on hand;
Buy scissors for figure cutting metal, they differ in that the working part is curved and the handles are located on top. When working, you will not be scratched on the edges of the profile, and cutting with this option is much more convenient.
- A screwdriver with attachments of the required configuration must also be present; if you do everything by hand, you will get tired very quickly.
Profile connection without cutting
This option is simple and is used when attaching the main profile to the guide, as well as when fixing corner joints. Let's figure out how to connect elements with our own hands:
- First you need to secure the guide elements to the wall and ceiling, after which the main profile is inserted into them. The dimensions of the products are made in such a way that they fit perfectly, and the stand fits tightly into the wall elements;
- Next, you need to screw 2-3 self-tapping screws through the profile wall so that they securely fix the element in the required position. During the process, when tightening the first screw, you should hold the connection with one hand, since the profile can move; then, when the knot is fixed, you no longer need to hold anything;
- If you need to fasten gusset, then you should align the two parts at right angles, and then screw two screws diagonally through the connection. It is better if the fastening is done on both sides, but you can limit yourself to one if access to the other is impossible;
If you want the corners to be stronger, you can make a connection by cutting the sides of the profile and bending it at a right angle without cutting the base.
I would like to make one important note: I categorically do not recommend increasing the length of the profile in this way. By inserting them into each other, or even strengthening them with another piece of profile, you will not achieve the required rigidity, and the geometry of such joints most often leaves much to be desired.
Connection with profile notching
Let’s figure out how to fasten the elements together, if they don’t connect in any way, the technology looks like this:
- First, you need to take measurements, and it is worth remembering that the length of the profile pieces that we will attach must be longer, since the ends will be cut in order to attach them to the racks. The length should be 3-4 cm longer on each side, the excess can be cut off without any problems later;
- If there is no load on the structure, then you can cut off the sides and leave a base that will fit onto the profile and through which the fastening will be made. Everything is very simple here, and if something is not clear to you, then just look at the photo below, all questions will immediately disappear;
- If you need to make jumpers or strengthen the opening, then you can cut the profile as shown in the diagram below. The advantage of this solution is that you can bend the profile in any direction convenient for you, after which the element is inserted into place and fixed to the frame. Cutting angle – 45 degrees;
- If you need a stronger connection, you can combine two fastening options. For example, use crabs and additionally twist the profile together. This is the option shown below, and it is distinguished by the highest reliability; I advise using this solution for those who are going to hang heavy plasterboard on the ceiling.
Reinforced fastening of jumpers
If you need to achieve reliability of jumpers in wall and ceiling structures, you can use another one interesting option carrying out work. For this you will need to have a few extra guide profiles on hand.
The workflow is quite simple:
- To begin with, the guide profile is cut into pieces about 10 centimeters long; they will be placed on both sides of the jumpers, that is, there should be twice as many of them as stiffeners;
- The elements prepared in this way are placed on the side of the racks at the required level and screwed with 2-3 metal screws. That is, we get additional grooves for the main profile, thanks to which the structure will acquire additional rigidity;
- The jumper itself is inserted into the guides prepared in this way and screwed front side metal screws. This option requires additional expense guide profile, but if there are no crabs at hand, then this solution will ensure no less reliability of the structure.
Technology No. 3 – fastening the profile using a cutter
Exists special tool for connecting profiles for drywall, it is called a cutter and is used for the most part only by professionals. This is due to the fact that the price for a good-quality option starts from one and a half thousand rubles; buying it for apartment renovation is not very reasonable, but if you are going to constantly similar works, then I advise you to consider this solution.
The advantage of such a tool is that it does not require self-tapping screws; the device cuts through two profiles, bending the metal from inside, thereby securely fixing the two profiles, below is shown what the connection looks like.
The disadvantage of the cutter is that, due to its design, it cannot be used everywhere, so in any case it will not be possible to do without a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Let's look at the most popular tool design so you can understand how it works:
- The basis of the design is a fixed lever, at the end of which there is a bracket with a stop; this is the main working unit;
- The metal is cut through a special punch, which moves by pressing a movable lever. To make the tool move smoothly, the punch is pressed through a roller, creating a system with two axes, which makes using the tool much easier.
Now let’s figure out how to connect a profile using this tool; the whole technology is simple, and it won’t be difficult for anyone to master it:
- First you need to prepare the profile; for this it is cut into pieces of the required size. I advise you to first check whether everything fits in and whether the parts fit together well, so you can eliminate problems if they exist and not be distracted while working;
- Next, you need to clearly align the connected elements with each other. Pay the closest attention to this aspect, because if you make a mistake, it will be difficult to correct the position; this is not a self-tapping screw that can be unscrewed; the notch holds firmly, and in order to separate it, you will have to ruin the profile;
- The handles in the cutter are moved as far apart as possible, after which the punch is positioned where the cut needs to be made. Usually fastening is done at several points, so think in advance about how best to position the tool to ensure maximum reliability of the connection;
- When everything is positioned properly, you need to gently but firmly press the handles of the cutter and thus connect the structural elements. Next, the tool is placed in other places, and the work is done in the same way until you complete it. required quantity connections.
Conclusion
We've dealt with different options carrying out the work, but how to fasten the frame in your home is up to you. All of the above techniques meet all the strength requirements if done correctly. The video in this article will help you better understand some important nuances individual technologies, and if you still don’t understand something, then write questions in the comments under the review.
Proper fastening of profiles under plasterboard ensures the reliability and strength of structures created from this popular building material these days.
What is the profile - 4 varieties
The use of plasterboard sheets (GKL) for finishing ceilings and wall surfaces requires the formation of a highly durable structure. It is created using various profiles. They are divided into the following types:
- Guides are the main element of the frame for drywall.
- Ceiling - used for mounting the base under the gypsum board on the ceiling. Fastening of such products is carried out using hangers and crabs - special fixing elements.
- Rack-mount - inserted into guide profiles.
- Corner - necessary for finishing the corners of the structure under the gypsum plasterboard. Used after it has been carried out finishing plasterboard surface.
Profile for gypsum board
Profiles are made in standard lengths - 4 or 3 m. The thickness of such products varies between 0.4–0.8 mm. Do not use profile products with a thickness of less than 0.55 mm. In most cases, they do not provide reliable fastening of the structure.
Frame installation - connection rules
When creating a base for plasterboard sheets, there is often a need to bend, lengthen and connect the products we are considering at a certain angle to each other. If you need to connect several guide rails straight or at an angle, you should use a special element. He has simple design, which allows you to install two profiles at the ends of the connector. Then they are fixed with press washers and short-length self-tapping screws. When forming frames for the ceiling, there is often a need to use crabs - connecting elements that ensure cross-sectional fastening of profile products.
Installation of the structure using such parts is elementary. You need to insert profiles into the ends of the crab, snap them into place, and then bend the antennae that this connecting device has by 60° and fix them on the sides of the guide.
Frame installation
Some craftsmen, when installing the frame, do without crabs. They simply cut the profiles (transverse) along the fold, bend (and sometimes break off) the sides and place them on the longitudinal guides. Crabs are suitable for making T-shaped joints. In this case, you can create a structure of three profiles by cutting off an unnecessary branch. If the installation of the frame under the gypsum board requires the connection of a rack and a guide profile, the first is inserted into the second. In this case, it is necessary to fix the resulting structure with a self-tapping screw.
Fastening products - how to do everything right?
Installation of the profile for gypsum boards is carried out in two stages. At the first stage, it is necessary to attach the suspensions to the base of the structure being created. And only after that the profile products are fixed to the installed hangers. The latter, by the way, should be placed strictly according to level. There are two types of suspensions:
- With a spoke - usually used when installation is performed. Such hangers have an expansion element, a hook and a shaped plate. The profile must be attached to the plate. And the hook makes it possible to securely fix the suspension to the base.
- Straight - metal perforated strips with a row of holes. Everything here is elementary. Some of the holes allow the suspension to be attached to the base, and some are used to connect it to the profile.
Fastening profiles
Suspensions should be attached to concrete and brick foundations exclusively using dowel-nails. Holes are made in advance for them, the cross-section of which must correspond to the diameter of the hardware used. Suspensions are fixed to ceiling surfaces with self-tapping screws. Nails may be used to attach the suspension to a wood base. But experts advise using it in such cases. Suspensions will be correctly attached to bases made of aerated concrete or hollow bricks using special dowels. Such products have spacer antennae and notches applied in the transverse direction.
Note! Installation of hangers is carried out along one line, which is strictly verified using building level. If you stray from it, correct installation profile product will become impossible. The profile is fastened to the hangers with a spoke by snapping them onto the protrusions or using self-tapping screws. And, as noted, profile products are attached to straight hanging parts with special hardware kits. They consist of a press washer and a self-tapping screw.
Now let's figure out how to attach the gypsum board to the profile. For these purposes, a screwdriver or drill is used. With their help, you will fix the profile to the gypsum board with 2.5 cm self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws should be used for metal, not wood. Each individual sheet of drywall is attached to the studs and around the perimeter of the structure. In this case, the distance between individual hardware is maintained at about 0.2–0.3 cm. The screws are recessed 1.5–2 mm into the plasterboard sheets. In no case should they protrude above their surface.
Fixing the profile in the corners - step-by-step instructions
When performing work with gypsum boards, in some cases it is necessary to install profile products in the corners. The latter can be external, internal and with non-standard parameters. The easiest way to form a 90-degree internal corner. The procedure is as follows:
- place the guide profile on the floor;
- bring the second product to it at a given angle;
- fix the profiles with dowel nails or self-tapping screws;
- perform similar actions on the ceiling;
- connect the structures on the floor and on the ceiling surface into one with a guide rail (it must be installed on the wall, where you will then attach the rack-mounted profile product);
- insert rack profiles into the grooves of the connecting rail and fix them.
Installation of corner profile
If you do all these steps correctly, you will have a perfect outside 90 degree corner. As you can see, everything is simple. An internal angle of 90° is created in the same way. You shouldn't have any problems forming it. Non-standard angles raise more questions. They have to be brought to 90°, which requires a lot of time. The scheme of work will be as follows. First, cut the guide profile along two edges (for the ceiling and floor surfaces). Then bend it, trying to bring the guide as close to the wall as possible.
After this, attach the profiles to the ceiling and floor. Here it is important to achieve rigid fixation of the products in each area so that the shape of the profile remains unchanged. We hope you understand how to attach profiles under gypsum boards. Get to work!
If only you could just buy a profile and that’s it – assemble it according to the instructions, attach the sheets to it, and you’re done! But you can’t do without subtleties in this matter - the profile has to be cut and, conversely, lengthened, connected, and all the parameters of the future frame must be observed. And even when this is done, the question arises - with what better than drywall, and at what distance should I do this?
What almost no one can do without frame construction, so this is without connecting two or more profiles in a straight line.
Connection methods:
- Building up. For example, if you are missing a standard three-meter profile, then using a special connector you fasten it to a second profile or a section of it. The ends of the two profiles being connected are inserted into the connector; they are fixed with short self-tapping screws with a press washer (the so-called bugs).
- T-joint. This happens using a “crab”, but first the excess part of the part is cut off.
- Cross connection. Used in the construction of ceiling frames. Four profiles are inserted into the “crab” with their ends, after which they snap into it, and the tendrils of the connection are bent 90 degrees, and “bugs” are fixed to the sides of the profiles.
In the latter case, you can also do without “crabs”. Fastening can be done like this: cut the transverse profiles along the fold, bend the sides. Place them on the longitudinal profile, and you can attach them with the same “bugs”. Both options are quite simple, the main thing is to do everything technically correctly.
Principle two - fastening with self-tapping screws
As a standard, you can fasten drywall to a profile using self-tapping screws (for metal), and the tools you will also need are a drill or a screwdriver. If you decide to get by with the latter, then it should have an adjustable speed.
The sheet of drywall is first cut out and then fixed to the profile. Having fixed one sheet, cut out the second, etc. A maximum of three sheets can be joined at one point, and they are fastened correctly with an offset, that is, the seams will be T-shaped.
Principle three: distance between profiles
A certain distance between the profiles must be maintained when fastening. The strength of the entire structure depends on this.
Step (distance) between profiles:
- Since the width of the usual plasterboard sheet– 120 cm, profiles are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm between the axes, parallel. It turns out that two sheets are attached to one extreme profile.
- The suspensions are fastened strictly on one line, without deviating from it. The line is marked in advance.
- The gypsum board is attached to each rack, allowing a step of 30 cm. In this case, smaller steps can be taken, but larger step will call the strength of the structure into question.
All that remains is to figure out how to attach the suspensions.
Principle four - how to attach the profile to the hangers
The profile can be secured to straight hangers with short self-tapping screws and a press washer.
If we are talking about suspensions with traction, fastening can be done either with self-tapping screws, or simply by snapping them onto special protrusions.
Suspensions are attached to the ceiling exclusively with self-tapping screws; the distance between the axes of the sheets is the same - every 40-60 cm.
By the way, if there are no hangers, you can work with scraps of the PS profile. They just need to be cut along the sides, bent into an L shape and fixed to the wall. Such profile fastening for a sheet of plasterboard will save on hangers.
How to attach drywall to a profile (video)