Laser sharpening of circular saws. How to sharpen a circular saw

The process of constructing private houses and various buildings will be quite difficult without using a circular saw. It is significantly better than many wood saws because it surpasses them in accuracy and cleanliness of the cut.

Due to the fact that this tool is actively used, it wears out quite quickly, and therefore sharpening circular saws with your own hands becomes extremely necessary.

What you need to sharpen circular saw blades

First of all, you need to prepare the appropriate components that will allow you to properly sharpen saw blade on wood. It is important to provide the following tools:

• file;
• assembly vice;
• wooden block;
• colored marker.

How to know when it's time to sharpen your circular saw

Sharpening a circular saw should only be done when necessary. You can recognize the onset of such a moment by two clear signs. In particular, urgent sharpening of a wood circular saw is necessary:

1. If strong heat regularly occurs on the safety guard of the saw in the area of ​​the electric motor. In some cases, with such an increase in temperature, smoke is released under the casing.
2. When pressing firmly on the instrument to obtain good cut during material processing.
3. If dark marks appear, traces of soot on the wood and a characteristic smell of burnt wood. This occurs due to the fact that the teeth of the saws are dull.

Types of sharpening cutting teeth

To better understand how circular saws are sharpened, you need to study the features and structure of those parts of the tool through which the material is cut. Cutting teeth are the main element involved in sawing wood.

They are made of carbide metal. The cutting teeth consist of 4 working teeth flat surfaces: front (a), rear (b) and two lateral planes (c), which have an auxiliary role. Through one main (1) and two additional (2 and 3) cutting edges intersection lines are formed for each specified working plane.

Depending on its configuration, the circular saw may have different kinds cutting teeth:

1. Straight tooth type. Often used for accelerated longitudinal sawing. Do not possess perfect quality sawed.
2. Beveled (oblique) type of teeth. They have a characteristic angular cut on the right and left rear surfaces. In some cases, the blades have teeth with different bevel sides, which alternate along the entire circumference of the saw. Using such discs you can cut wood, chipboard and various plastics. A large bevel angle ensures a high-quality cut without chipping the cutting edge.
3. Trapezoidal type of teeth. The cross-section of the cutting surfaces has trapezoidal shape. This configuration allows you to work without dulling for a long time. long period time. Often the disc has straight teeth that alternate with trapezoidal ones. In such cases, the trapezoidal element plays the main role in rough cutting, while the straight tooth type is used for finishing.
4. Conical teeth type. They have a cone-shaped appearance. As a rule, they perform an auxiliary function for preliminary cuts on the laminate. The conical type of teeth is used to process the specified flooring. This saw allows you to avoid chipping the material, as often happens when using the main saw.

Video “Sharpening circular saw blades”

The process of sharpening a circular saw blade.

The principle and angle of sharpening circular saw blades

The working part of a circular saw is sharpened at 4 main sharpening angles. They are among the main technical parameters cutting disc, as well as the type of shape of the cutting teeth.

It is worth noting that all circular saw teeth are characterized by front (γ), rear (α) angles, as well as the cutting angle of the front and rear surfaces (ε1 and ε2). The value of each specified angle must correspond to the purpose of the sawing devices, the materials being cut and the direction of sawing.

In particular, the saw for longitudinal cut sharpened at fairly large rake angles (15° - 25°).

The sharpening indicators of the front corners for transverse types of cuts are in the range of 5° - 10°. Universal options, used for processing materials in all types of directions, are standardly sharpened at 15°.

At the same time, the value of the specified angle is also influenced by the fact of how hard the objects being cut have. Their value has a strict dependence: with greater hardness of the material that is being cut, the cutting teeth should be less pointed.

According to the main principle of sharpening teeth on a carbide saw blade, it is important to take into account that during long-term operation the most significant wear processes occur on the upper cutting edges. As a result, with intensive use, their lines can be rounded up to 0.3 mm or more. Regarding the tooth planes, it is worth noting that the greatest wear occurs on the front surfaces.

When properly sharpening a cutting element, the cutting edges must be shaped in such a way that the radius of their roundings does not exceed 0.2 mm. In this regard, it is recommended to perform parallel grinding of the metal on the front and rear planes of the teeth. The use of this method is considered the most appropriate. It is possible to sharpen only one front plane, but in such cases this operation requires more time. In addition, the teeth will grind down faster, since it becomes necessary to grind off a larger layer of metal from the front surfaces.

The standard layer for grinding metal is 0.05-0.15 mm.

How to sharpen a circular saw with your own hands

You can sharpen your saw at home completely on your own. For these purposes, there is no need to visit a workshop to use a specialized grinding machine or purchase it. It is quite expensive, and is rarely used for sharpening, unless of course you plan to use it for large-scale production purposes.

But holding saw blades in your hands while sharpening teeth with a grinding wheel is not the best The best decision. A circular disc is not a drill, it is much larger. No amount of firmness of hands and excellent eye will allow sharpening so that the cutting elements are sharp enough and suitable for effective use. To do this, you need to provide the simplest fixing device.

To hold the gear circular circle in the desired position relative to the plane of the sharpening tool, you can use the most ordinary flat stand.

The position of its surface must correspond to the level of the axles on the rear disk. The toothed wheel is placed on a stand so that the plane of the tooth to be sharpened is perpendicular to the blades of the saw blade. To sharpen beveled teeth on the front and rear surfaces, you need to provide movable hinges in this device.

But in such cases it is quite difficult to maintain the same values ​​of the front and rear sharpening angles of the tool. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to rigidly fix the center of the saw according to the desired position in relation to grinding wheel. This is done using grooves for a mandrel, which is mounted on a stand with the saws to be sharpened placed on it, or by installing a special stop on the stand, which will secure the saw blade according to the required angle to the abrasive stone.

If you adhere to all the requirements for sharpening a carbide circular saw, then this tool will work as efficiently as possible over a long period of time.

Video “How to sharpen a saw blade with your own hands”

Demonstrative video on how to sharpen a cutting saw blade yourself.

A disk tool for cutting wood is always useful during construction. A circular saw is convenient because it allows you to quickly cut material when minimum costs energy and time. As for the quality of the cut, we can say that it is ideal, but only when the saw is in good working order and well sharpened. Otherwise, working with such a tool is even dangerous, so you should sharpen the circular saw.

It is not difficult to determine the need for sharpening: a blunt tool cuts the workpiece poorly, which is immediately noticeable. There are two options here: either take the blade to a workshop, which is not always profitable in terms of time and money, or sharpen the circular saw with your own hands. This may seem difficult at first glance. But if you delve into the essence of the saw in more detail, it will not be difficult to service the tool at home.

There are absolutely certain signs, by which one can judge the condition of the instrument. Saw sharpening is necessary when the following clearly appears:

1. During operation, smoke appears, a specific smell of burnt wood, the casing covering the saw teeth begins to heat up quickly.
2. When moving the tool along the workpiece, you need to apply significant effort, as if pushing the saw forward.
3. After cutting the material and visual inspection The sawn edge shows black carbon deposits or many chips, fiber burrs, and chipped areas.
4. When you carefully examine the saw teeth through a magnifying glass, you can see that the cutting parts have rounded edges rather than sharp ones.

All this requires immediate cessation of work, otherwise there is a high risk of damage to the material and wear of the circular saw to a state where sharpening will no longer help it.

Basic sharpening angles for circular saws

The tooth of a circular saw, which is usually made of carbide metal, has a complex structure. It has three cutting edges as standard, so you need to sharpen the teeth in such a way as to sharpen these edges. But the main thing when sharpening is to observe the angles at which the tooth planes diverge from the edges, and the angles of attack between the tooth plane and the workpiece. The last point is important to maintain the characteristics of the saw blade.

The front edge, the one that first cuts into the workpiece as the saw moves, forms the main cutting edge with the rear edge. The angle at which the rake edge meets the material is called the rake angle Y (angle of attack). The angle between the back edge and the front edge is the sharpening angle. If you subtract the rake angle and the point angle from 90 degrees, you get the back angle.

In practice, it is important to maintain these angles for each type of blade when sharpening. It is according to the front angle that saws are divided into types:

1. Longitudinal cutting, where the rake angle should not go beyond 15–25 degrees.
2. Transverse cutting, where it is permissible to sharpen the front edge of the tooth at an angle of 5–10 degrees.
3. Universal discs that can handle both longitudinal and transverse cuts quite easily; their rake angle should be maintained around 15 degrees.

The bevel angle of the rear and front planes is also important: the sharper it is, the easier it is for the saw to enter the material, but wear occurs faster.

Follow the rules! When sawing hardwood, saws should be sharpened so that the point angle and bevel angle are as small as possible (in permissible limits). This increases the service life of the disc until the next sharpening.

Types of circular saw tooth settings

Before sharpening the circular saw, you need to check whether the teeth are set. To do this, measure the width of the tooth with a caliper, and then make a small cut in a piece of hardwood and measure its width. If the circulation disc is set apart, then the cut should be wider than the tooth. Otherwise, the saw teeth must be set apart before sharpening operations.

The complexity of the setting process is due to the need to move the teeth to the side at the same distance. This can be achieved by using a factory-made device for wiring circular saws. Each tooth should be started from the middle of its size. For different densities wood materials The degree of teeth set must be different, but without going into details, we can say that the teeth are set wider for sawing soft rocks than for hard ones.

There are three main wiring methods:

1. Stripping type wiring. This method boils down to the fact that after two teeth the tooth remains in its place without change, the rest are deflected in different directions. This saw preparation is good for working with solid wood.
2. A variant of the classic setting, when the saw teeth alternately move to the right and then to the left. This universal method can be used for almost all types of saws.
3. The so-called wavy layout, distinctive feature which is the retraction of the teeth not to a strictly defined distance from the center, but to different distances with a deviation within 0.3–0.7 millimeters.

General rules for sharpening a circular saw

To sharpen the disks for a circular saw, you need to prevent them from wearing out too much, namely, the radius of rounding of the cutter should not be more than 0.2 mm. The following basic rules are followed:

1. The main edges are processed first, of which the front faces wear out the most.
2. In extreme cases, if the side edges are heavily worn, they are corrected.
3. No more than 0.15 millimeters of the thickness of the saw metal is removed at a time.
4. When finishing edges with an electric tool, overheating of the metal is not allowed, in which case its properties will deteriorate.
5. To ensure the maximum service life of the saw, when it can be sharpened up to 30 times, you should sharpen both edges: the front and back, removing the same amount of metal.
6. Sharpening circular saws with tools not intended for this purpose, such as a grinder and a metal cutting disc, is not allowed.

After the basic sharpening operations, you can refine the teeth with fine sandpaper. The quality of tool sharpening is checked under working conditions. If everything is in order, the cutting of the material will be clean, smooth, without visible defects or blackening.

How can you sharpen a circular saw?

Sharpening discs is impossible without using special tool. For these purposes you can use:

1. Special wheels for sharpening saws, made on the basis of diamond abrasives.
2. A regular file for sharpening a saw, but you also need to have a vice to secure the saw and wooden block, used as a guide.
3. Processing using professional equipment – ​​the fastest and most quality way sharpening, but requiring large material costs to purchase the tool.

Do-it-yourself saw sharpening at home

Attention! To sharpen circular saws with your own hands, it is advisable to have certain skills in sharpening tools. If you don’t have any, at least practice on sandpaper, sharpening a regular knife.

When working with a disk, the main thing is not to damage the cutting surface, and this can easily happen if the hand trembles and the feed angle is disrupted. To avoid negative consequences You should study sharpening methods, and then everything will work out correctly. Distinguish manual method recovery cutting elements circular saw and method using sharpening equipment.

Manual method

You can sharpen the teeth yourself by hand using a file to achieve high quality results if they do not have a bevel, that is, the surface of the front edge is perpendicular to the surface of the blade. The process looks like this:

1. A block with a cross section of about 50x50 mm and a length of 100 mm is prepared from dense wood. The sides of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to each other.
2. Mark with a marker any tooth that will be reported and the first to be processed.
3. The saw blade is clamped in a vice together with the beam so that the front edge of the element being processed is flush and in the same plane with the surface of the beam (the beam in this case acts as a guide for the file).
4. A thin file (its thickness should allow it to fit freely into the cavity between adjacent teeth) is applied to the surface of the tooth being processed and at the same time to the block and sharpening is carried out using methodical movements back and forth.
5. In this way, each tooth is gradually sharpened, monitoring the condition of the timber and, when working out its surface, slightly shifting the plane.

Use of machines

By using special machine Circular saws sharpen very easily and quickly. The main thing is that there is no need to monitor the angle of the disk feed. Once it has been set, the operator only has to move the teeth into the processing area and lightly press the tooth plane against the rotating diamond disk.

This equipment can be used to sharpen carbide-tipped circular saws and conventional circular saws. The simplest machine for sharpening operations of circular saws has the following structural elements:

1. An electric drive with a grinding disc fastening system is a stationary part of the equipment.
2. The stand, which moves along the guides, is responsible for feeding the saw blade into the processing area.
3. A saw blade clamp on a stand, which is designed to hold the blade in a constant position when it is fed to the sharpening disk.

Please pay Special attention! Discs with different types teeth required individual approach to sharpening. When the front edge is beveled, it is fed into the processing area at an angle to the horizontal, for which one edge of the stand is raised accordingly.

If you have additional questions on the topic of sharpening saws or you have your own experience in carrying out such operations, respond in the comments! Your comments are important to us!

Circular saws is a tool that is used regularly in the woodworking and construction industries. The circular saw works with different materials, and the cut quality is great importance. Sooner or later the question of restoring saw teeth arises. The ability to carry out this work at a high level professional level will make it possible to use the cutting tool for a long time.

Necessity of the procedure

Circular saws are needed both in private households and in production. When building a house, creating furniture, cutting boards, timber - a similar tool is required everywhere. Properly sharpening a circular saw requires practical skill and knowledge.

Circular saws compare favorably with others cutting tool:

• chain;
• saber;
• longitudinal.

Disc circular devices have significant productivity, and their service life is also much longer. Sharpening circular saws is important necessary stage, without it the tool will not work fully. Thanks to various attachments with carbide tips, as well as pobedit coatings, cutting can be carried out with both wood and metals.

To sharpen discs with different attachments, special equipment is required. If the disk is treated “scientifically”, this will greatly extend its service life.

Timely sharpening of circular saws is carried out when there are several obvious signs.

• The engine begins to experience unnecessary loads. The reason is simple - the teeth are dull and additional resources are required to process the material. There is a danger: if the disk is damaged, if there is no engine shutdown relay, the machine may fail.
• If chips and chips form on the cut, and the cut itself becomes too wide, then this is sure sign– the instrument must be repaired.
• A foreign smell of burnt material appears, and dark spots are visible on the cut line.
• The time required to process a part increases.

Types of saws

If the disk is properly sharpened and the teeth are set according to the pattern, then it can process the workpiece in any direction relative to the wood fibers.

There are these types of tools:

• saw with carbide blades;
• discs made of solid metal;
• discs with teeth treated with hard material;
• discs with heavy-duty soldered teeth.

Hardwoods are processed with discs that have special grooves. Technological breaks prevent tool deformation and prevent it from overheating during the production cycle. Vibration and background noise are also significantly reduced, and the quality of the line formed by the cut is improved. The saw has teeth that are machined at a certain angle, each tooth has several cutting edges.

There is a main edge, additional ones are mated to it, and intersecting planes are formed:

The planes themselves also vary in different mates.

To use saws correctly and productively, you must consider the material you are working with.

The teeth can be straight, they are usually used for preliminary cutting of material. These teeth provide a low level cut. However, the productivity of such teeth is quite high.

Beveled teeth provide a more precise line and are suitable for cutting materials such as:

• plywood;
• PVC sheets;

The teeth ensure an even cut without the material crumbling.

There are also discs that have a bevel at the leading edge of the cutter, and also have a bevel at the trailing edge. Options for alternating different teeth with different bevels are possible. Such tricks ensure a clean cut, but you should remember: the denser the material, the faster such teeth become dull.

Trapezoid tooth– this configuration of teeth ensures long term service to the instrument. Often a complex design is used, when trapezoidal and straight teeth alternate. The latter make the primary cut, which allows straight-shaped teeth to “polish” the cut.

Typically, such a tool is used in cutting laminate flooring, as well as PVC sheets.

Cone shaped tooth– such teeth are auxiliary and are designed to work with materials that have a laminated surface. They ensure correct cutting without the formation of any chips.

Teeth of this configuration are practically not used independently.

Sickle shaped tooth– in this case, the teeth are bent, which makes it possible to accurately cut the material across the wood fibers.

Determining the degree of wear and sharpening angle

Circular saws, sooner or later, lose their performance characteristics during operation; it is possible to effectively extend the service life of the tool if it is sharpened again correctly. This operation is simple; in many cases you can do the work yourself.

First of all, you should have an idea: what parameters the working disk of the unit has. The second most important parameter is the sharpening angle, what parameters the tooth itself has.

Before you start working, you should test the tool to understand how relevant its restoration is. The disc should be inspected by removing it from the machine. An important indicator is a change in size, this can be seen even with a cursory examination.

Discs that have been treated require a special approach special materials. The tipped disc allows you to significantly increase the service life of the cutting tool. It can work with any type of tree, even material of increased hardness.

The “knobs” themselves are made of heavy-duty steel of the following grade:

• 50 HVA;

Some other grades of steel are also used.

To begin work, it is advisable to have the required template, according to which you can adjust the geometry of the cutting surface. Usually the template is made of tin or cardboard.

The teeth themselves have a standard prescribed in GOST 9768-78, however, each manufacturer has differentiation in inclination angles and shapes.

In the absence of a template, you will need to determine the parameters of the teeth yourself. There is a tool for this - a pendulum protractor. With this tool you can accurately set the sharpening angle.

Another option is take a new disk and use it as a template. You should take a sheet of thick cardboard and draw precise outlines on it with a pencil. Then, using a pendulum angle gauge, the exact configuration of the soldering should be established. This It is recommended to save the sample so you can work with it in the future, using as a reference.

After finishing the work, it will be necessary to test the resulting sample by comparing it with the standard. The angle of inclination in such saws ranges from 15 to 25 degrees.

If the model is transverse, then the differentiation can be from 5 to 10 degrees. If the model is universal, then the tilt angle is only 15 degrees.

Something to keep in mind when starting work: the rake angle may have a negative value. Similar models are used for working with PVC sheets, as well as soft metals.

Methods

You can sharpen the instrument yourself (if it does not have a pobedit coating) at home. And also in such cases, you can use a simple machine on which you can successfully sharpen any edges. It is very important to choose the right circle.

They come in the following types:

• corundum;
• diamond

It is best to use a unit in which the disc can be positioned at different angles.

There are rules:

• the main defect occurs on the edge from above, that is, the edges are rounded within 0.11-0.31 mm - this is the starting point from which sharpening should begin;
• Both the front and rear parts should be processed, this should be done at least 26 times;
• size does not exceed 0.051-0.151 mm;
• front and back edges are processed identically;
• After the end of the cycle, the finishing process should be carried out, that is, clean the surface with “zero” sandpaper.

The work of creating a new configuration requires compliance with regulations and has its own complexity.

• Familiarize yourself with the requirements, in particular, clarify the number of revolutions. It is clear that for metal this figure will be noticeably lower. Wooden elements processed with a large number of revolutions.
• The material from which the soldering is made can withstand heavy loads, its service life is significant, but even it sooner or later receives defects, chips and cracks appear.
• A sure sign that the material is beginning to “tire” is the appearance of microburrs and roughness on the surface. Defects will appear in these places after some time.

To carry out sharpening correctly, you should know what types of teeth there are:

• straight;
• tooth with a bevel on the back;
• trapezoidal;
• cone-shaped;
• concave.

How to sharpen:

• The disc should be thoroughly cleaned using alcohol or chemicals;
• all working planes are processed;
• it is permissible to remove metal 0.051-0.151 millimeters;
• sharpen perhaps no more than twenty-five times;
• you can sharpen using a special file, if you have practical experience;
• It is recommended to sharpen carbide teeth using separate equipment;
• Victory tips can only be “taken” using a special machine that contains a diamond wheel.

Markers should be made to mark the starting point. The teeth are arranged in such a way that they are in a single plane. After completing the sharpening cycle, each tooth is tested and processed separately.

There are several types of tooth alignment.

• Wavy, each tooth is straightened at a certain angle of inclination, thus creating a semblance of a wave.
• Protective, two teeth have angles of inclination, the third tooth is present without inclination. This method is effective even when working with mahogany and oak.
• Classic, when the teeth are variable - angles of inclination to the left and right.
• Frontal.
• Rear.
• A tilt is made at the frontal plane.
• A tilt is made at the rear plane.

There is another parameter - the sharpening angle, but it usually “works” as an additional tool.

For manual sharpening you will need:

• wooden blocks (2 pieces, size 52x32 mm);
• drill, screwdriver;
• screwdriver bit;
• a hacksaw for processing ceramics;
• marker;
• ruler;
• screws or self-tapping screws.

The middle of the bars is cut out, they are fixed on a solid plane using self-tapping screws. A mark is made on the bars so that a crown for processing ceramics is then placed in the sawn markings, which, in turn, is attached to a screwdriver.

The surface of the stand coincides with the surface of the disc. The circle lies on a stand, the sharpening plane should be at an angle of 90 degrees to the saw blade. This simple device is equipped with a swivel unit. This reliable fastening Allows uniform processing of all tool teeth. Using a marker, you make markings, which makes it possible to correctly determine the angle of inclination.

Machine tools

All equipment that provides sharpening has one operating principle. The only differences are in the performance of the equipment.

Household units can work for half an hour, then they should be disconnected from the network for a while. Professional tool able to function virtually non-stop for the entire shift (8-10 hours).

The tool kit includes abrasive wheel, as well as grinding material.

Using machines to sharpen teeth provides a number of advantages:

• the ability to adhere to a given angle;
• increases the efficiency of production operations and their speed;
• It is possible to use a variety of disks.

Using the machine you can even work with hard alloy coatings. The grit of the grinding wheel varies. As an example, if the diameter is 126 mm, then the speed can be 2300 rpm.

The rotation speed of the disk can deviate within 510-720 rpm, it all depends on what fragility factor the disk has.

The harder the material, the greater the speed required to process it.

The functionality of the installation determines whether the workpiece or the spindle will move. Movement of the entire device is also possible.

The angle of inclination can be measured using a pendulum inclinometer; some units have a built-in scale to determine the angle of inclination of the teeth.

The teeth are usually sharpened first from the front, then from the rear.

To sharpen teeth with pobedit soldering, a diamond wheel is required. Discs that have soldering must be sharpened using special attachments or a diamond wheel coated with diamond.

The units have the following parameters:

• thickness from 15 to 42 mm;
• outer diameter 11-252 mm;
• hole for fastening (16, 20, 33 mm).

A lot depends on the performance characteristics of the abrasive; special attention should be paid to them.

Standard cutters are not always suitable for the job, so tools with special heavy-duty soldering (corundum, diamond coating) are available.

And finally, some advice from experts:

• the frontal part should be monitored more closely;
• when working with massive elements, the side planes are subject to heavy loads;
• radius rounding no more than 0.21 mm;
• It’s best to process the teeth both front and back;
• metal removal parameters should not exceed 0.151 mm;
• the disk is cleaned before starting work, all relevant corners should also be checked;
• sharpening the teeth at the desired angle requires practical experience, in the absence of one, it is better to take the disc to a workshop;

• wheels with diamond coating should be cooled using a special coolant;
• unit designed for sharpening circular knives, capable of working with a workpiece in only one plane;
• the teeth should not be allowed to wear to the point of rounding by more than 0.21 mm, otherwise it will be difficult to do normal sharpening;

Circular saw blades are made from high quality and strong metal, plates made of various hard alloys are soldered onto them.

The teeth have different shapes in terms of geometry:

1. With straight teeth
2. Oblique teeth.
3. With trapezoidal teeth.
4. Conical teeth.

You purchased a circular saw and after some time of use the blade became dull. And now you are wondering - how to sharpen a circular saw? Below we will try to explain everything simply.

How to sharpen a saw blade correctly

First of all, you need to keep in mind that the teeth wear out mainly on the upper cutting edge; it becomes rounded during operation. The thickness of the rounded layer can reach from 0.1 to 0.4 mm, and the front edge of the edge surface becomes blunt very quickly.

To properly and competently sharpen a circular saw, you will need: a special sharpening machine and a pendulum protractor.

Proper sharpening of a circular saw with straight teeth is carried out along the plane located in front. For this purpose, the disk is installed in a mandrel located in a horizontal plane.

Next, using the adjustment screws installed on the equipment for sharpening the tool, you need to set the angle necessary for proper sharpening. The circular saw should move with the closest possible contact to the surface of the sanding disc.

The thickness of the layer ground off with an emery wheel is regulated by the force of pressing the saw blade against the abrasive. After sharpening the first tooth, the saw blade is removed from the emery stone, rearranged one step and the actions continue in the same way until all the blades have been sharpened. carbide material.

Proper sharpening of the saw blade

Sharpening of circular disks with a beveled soldering surface made of carbide material is carried out along its rear plane and along its front. This method of sharpening differs from sharpening discs with a straight surface in that the saw must be positioned at an angle corresponding to the angle of inclination of the teeth.

To know how to sharpen a circular saw, follow these steps step by step:

• You need to set the required angle using a pendulum protractor;
• The angle with positive value: +6, +8, +10, etc.
• The plates are sharpened one at a time, passing in a circle, you will have the first half of the plates sharpened, after this operation the angle of inclination changes to the opposite, and sharpening of the other half of the tooth plates begins.

It is much more difficult to sharpen the back of soldered plates; this operation requires a special machine in which to install circular disk, thus, when the rear plane of the disc teeth is parallel to the plane of the emery stone.

Sharpening without a machine

Many people are interested in the question: how to sharpen a circular saw without a special machine? If necessary and when there is no special equipment for sharpening discs, it can be sharpened using improvised means.

How to sharpen a circular saw using emery machine? For ease of operation, it is necessary to make a device that will make it possible to fix the saw blade in the required position relative to emery wheel installed on the machine. For this purpose, you can use a regular metal plate, the surface of which should be placed at the same level with the axis of the emery wheel.

A disk from a circular saw is placed on the plate and secured in the desired plane to the surface. It can be secured using bolts, which can also be used to adjust the angle of inclination of the disk.

You can check the quality of the sharpening done by inspecting the sharpened plates; you need to visually inspect the surface, when correct sharpening There should be no chips, various cracks and there should be no glare on the surface of the sharpened areas. The radii of curvature of cutting edges should be in the range: 0.010-0.014 mm.

If you follow all the recommendations for performing sharpening work, you can work with confidence circular saw without replacing saw blades with new ones. Resharpened cutting part will cut discs efficiently necessary materials and products without damaging their surfaces. Which will allow you to save a lot cash for the purchase of new disks.

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