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If there are defects on the surface of wooden products (chips, cracks, unevenness, etc.), then they must be puttied before painting or opening with varnish. When correct execution With this operation, the flaws become completely invisible. In this article we will look in detail at what and how to putty wooden surfaces in order to get a high-quality result.

Wood putty

Kinds

First of all, it should be said that the quality of putty largely depends on the choice of composition. Therefore, first of all, we will consider how to putty wood.

Currently, there are quite a few varieties of putties, which makes their choice somewhat complicated. Therefore, first of all, let’s get acquainted with the most common of them:

Tish putty	Peculiarities
Plaster	Often used for woodworking, so it can be considered classic version. This composition has good adhesion and elasticity, and its price is quite low. The only thing to keep in mind is that gypsum putty does not tolerate moisture.
Acrylic	The cost of such putties is much higher than gypsum compounds, but they have a number of advantages, such as: Moisture resistance; High drying speed; Large selection of natural shades; Versatility - can be used not only for wood, but also for chipboard or even laminate. The disadvantages of this composition include the fact that it is not intended for sealing wide and deep cracks.
Polymer	They are also considered expensive putties, but they lie smoothly, dry quickly and are highly durable. Therefore, they can be used to work with parquet and other surfaces that will subsequently be subject to significant mechanical loads. Prominent representatives of polymer putties are latex and silicone compounds. As for the shortcomings, in addition to high cost they have no obvious disadvantages.
Nitro putty	Resistant to chemicals and water, does not shrink and is easy to sand. For this reason it is also very popular.

Note!
Putty can be starting and finishing.
As a rule, the finish is more liquid and elastic.

As we see, each material has its own characteristics, and to say which better putty woodworking is quite difficult. Therefore, you should choose depending on the operating conditions wooden structure and the characteristics of the flaws that need to be eliminated.

Self-production

It is not necessary to purchase the material in the store, since you can make wood putty yourself. Moreover, there are quite a lot of options for its manufacture.

Below we will look at some of the most common ways to make wood putty yourself:

• The easiest time-tested way to prepare putty is to mix PVA glue with chalk. until a thick creamy consistency is formed. If necessary to seal large gaps or chips, sawdust can be added to the composition. After drying, this putty forms a fairly hard and durable coating.
• A modern variation of the above method is the use of acrylic varnish instead of PVA.
• Putty based on nitro varnish– the composition of this coating includes the same chalk and sawdust. Moreover, there should be more of the latter, since they are the main filler.

It must be said that self-made putty is often not inferior in quality to branded analogues. Therefore, its independent production remains relevant to this day.

Wood filling technology

So, the instructions for filling wood are as follows:

• Before you putty on a wooden or other window wooden product it must be thoroughly cleaned from dust and any contaminants. To do this, you can wipe the surface with a damp cloth or even sand it with sandpaper.
• Next, the cracks are prepared - if they are too narrow, then they need to be slightly widened. Peeling or chipping parts must be removed.

In the photo - primer for wood

• Then the wood must be treated with a primer, which will prevent it from rotting or mold, and also improve the adhesion of the putty. The primer is usually applied in two layers. Moreover, the surface is treated with liquid a second time after the first layer has completely dried.
• After this, the putty is taken from the container with a small spatula and applied to the surface in a layer of 2-3 mm. The spatula should be pressed tightly and held at a slight angle to the surface.
• When the first layer has hardened, you need to remove any unevenness with a spatula or sandpaper and apply another layer. The surface must first be cleaned of dust.
• If the desired result is almost achieved, you can apply finishing putty layer no thicker than 1.5 mm.
• After this, the surface must be thoroughly sanded with zero-grit sandpaper dipped in water.

• At the end of the work, the putty surface must be coated again.

Advice!
When choosing a primer, you should focus on the type of putty.
For example, it is better to use a nitro primer under nitro putty.

This completes the work. Now, knowing how to putty wooden floor or other wooden surfaces, you can handle this task yourself.

Conclusion

To properly putty wood, you need to choose the right putty and follow the basic rules for its application. Moreover this work is quite painstaking and requires certain skills. However, by doing it yourself, you can get the hang of it quite quickly.

Get acquainted with some additional information On the topic mentioned above, you can watch the video in this article.

Wooden products, wooden houses and floors made from this natural material have always been popular. In fact, this is one of the first building materials in the history of mankind. Unfortunately, for all its advantages, wood is not characterized by high strength, and sometimes unsightly cracks and holes spoil all its beauty. Wood putty allows you to quickly mask any surface defects, returning it to its original appearance.

Wood putty is used to hide all sorts of minor wood defects, for example, cracks, gaps, voids, holes left by nails, etc. There are several types of such decorative putty depending on the composition. Manufacturers also produce different shades of putty to match as closely as possible various breeds wood (oak, cherry, walnut, pine, etc.)

Solvent putty

Solvent-based putty has been used for quite a long time in the woodworking industry by both amateurs and professional carpenters. This was the first type of putty, during the course of operation and experiments on which all other varieties were invented.

Solvent-based compositions are highly durable, but may be chemically unsafe and have unpleasant smell. Another thing is water-based putties.

Water-based putty

Water-based putty is completely safe for humans, animals and environment. They are very easy to use, flexible and practically odorless. To remove excess water-based putty, you do not need to wipe it off with turpentine or acetone, as is the case with its “progenitor” - just wipe the surface with a damp cloth.

Unlike solvent-based compounds, water-based putty dries much more slowly in a jar, and therefore has a longer shelf life after the packaging has been sealed. High adhesive properties allow the putty to be applied even to a polished surface.

Characteristics of water-based putty:

• effectively hides defects;
• can be used for grouting floorboard joints;
• does not emit harmful chemicals, even when heated;
• insensitive to moisture;
• durable;
• resistant to temperature changes; moreover, putty can protect wood from fire;
• high elasticity allows you to simulate any surface texture.

All of the above characteristics appear only after the composition has completely hardened and if applied correctly.

Oil based putty

If you need external putty for wood - buy only oil. It is perfect for treating facades before painting. It has a powerful water-repellent effect and can easily withstand adverse climatic conditions. Any other composition will quickly crack and crumble.

The abundance of different shades allows you to choose the plaster by color and leave the natural texture of the wood without covering it with paint.

Oil-based plaster for exterior use is available in containers weighing from 0.5 kg to 15 kg, which is very convenient if you need to treat a large facade.

Polymer putty

Polymer or acrylic putty today it is especially popular and is used for almost any construction or repair work. This is due to its impeccable performance characteristics - durability, elasticity, lack of shrinkage, etc.

Due to the presence of polymers and plasticizers in its composition, the putty can be used both for finishing dry rooms and wet ones (kitchen, bathroom, bathhouse). It can not only repel moisture and withstand temperature changes, but also withstand heavy loads. For this reason, polymer putty is ideal for working with wooden floors(parquet, solid board).

Characteristics of acrylic wood putty:

1. High elasticity - the mixture fills even the smallest cracks and voids, it can be used to seal the joints of boards in parquet.
2. No shrinkage - unlike other types, it is enough to apply the putty once, and it will retain its shape after drying.
3. Durability - depending on operating conditions, the coating can last from 3 to 10 years or longer.
4. The price of wood putty is polymer based noticeably higher than oil or water putties, but the amount will pay off in the first years of use - when other putties crack and crumble, polymer putties will last for many years.
5. Wide color palette.
6. Environmentally friendly (can be used in sanitary areas).
7. Reduces dust accumulation.
8. Hardens quickly.

How to choose putty

Agree, it is completely unacceptable to think that the entire range of wood putties will be equivalent to each other, be it solvents, polymers or a water base. A good putty should fill all cracks, harden quickly and not dry out. It should also be easy to sand and not dent over time. How to buy wood putty of decent quality and most suitable for a certain type of work?

If you have to work with porous or fibrous wood species, for example, beech, oak or walnut, then it is better to give preference to self-leveling putties. They are evenly distributed over the surface, filling the pores and practically not hiding the natural beauty of the wood texture. Such compositions are usually used before varnishing parquet or countertops.

Using putty you can get interesting decorative effects regardless of the type of wood you are working with. So, to highlight the beautiful porosity of the wood, use putty in a contrasting color or shade of the topcoat. If you want to focus on the beautiful fibers of the material, choose the color of the putty that best matches finishing coating. Today on Russian market The most popular wood putty is Tikkurila.

Helpful advice: before applying, be sure to check how the putty will look. Spread a little onto an inconspicuous area of ​​the coating and wait until it dries. Thus, the fibers of certain types of wood can rise when in contact with wet compounds. In this case, it is recommended to replace the water-based putty with solvent-based putty.

How to get the best possible result:

1. Test on a separate piece of wood before treating an expensive countertop or restoring an antique cabinet. Pay attention to all the details: pore filling, drying rate, shrinkage and ease of sanding.
2. Buy several shades of putty - rarely is anyone able to determine the exact shade by eye, especially since after drying the putty may turn out to be slightly lighter or darker. It is often necessary to mix multiple colors of putty by hand to achieve optimal results.
3. Choose a putty of suitable thickness - water compositions thicker and have good contact with any surface, unlike solvent-based putties. If you do not need to pack the voids in the wood very tightly, as is done with solvent-based putties, choose polymer or water-based compounds.
   Keep in mind that water-based putties take quite a long time to dry - first a film appears on the surface, which inhibits the evaporation of moisture. For this reason, to fill deep cracks, it is better to use solvent-based putty, and apply it in several layers, each of which should be sanded before applying the next.
4. Be sure to take into account the location of the surface to be treated. If this is external work, then you can only use oil-based putty - water-based ones will not withstand environmental influences.

Wood floor putty

You can start puttingtying the floor covering both during the process of installing a new floor, and in case of repairing an old one. If you notice that cracks have formed in the parquet, quickly cover them with putty of a suitable color.

If we are talking about installing a new floor covering, let’s take the same parquet, then before finishing It must be varnished over the entire area. This way the base will acquire integrity, become smooth, waterproof and as even as possible, and the varnish will better “adhere” to the coating. In this case, the putty is applied using a spatula in small doses, carefully treating each crack.

Rules for applying putties

In order for the treated coating to be as natural as possible, you should follow certain conditions when working with plaster:

1. You can seal cracks in wood outdoors at a temperature not lower than +5C, otherwise the composition will be too viscous and will not be able to properly fill all the cracks. Air humidity should be no more than 75%.
2. The surface to be treated should be prepared - clean the voids that will be filled with putty, wipe away dust with a damp cloth, remove old material if necessary. paintwork and clean with sandpaper.
3. Apply the putty with a plastic spatula or stainless steel spatula.
4. If it is necessary to fill a deep crack larger than 1 cm, it is recommended to do this in several layers, allowing each previous one to dry thoroughly. The thickness of each layer should not be higher than 2-3 mm. Drying time depends on the composition of the putty (see instructions on the package).

Putty for painting

Contrary to popular belief, paint does not mask, but, on the contrary, even more focuses attention on wood defects (just remember the clumsily painted benches under each entrance). This is why wood putty is used for painting.

To get an even beautiful coating It is extremely important to follow the technology for preparing wood and applying putty:

1. Remove old paintwork, if any.
2. Sand the surface thoroughly first with #3 sandpaper, then #1 or #0 sandpaper.
3. Bare, untreated wood should be coated with drying oil.
4. Wipe the sanded surface with a damp cloth to lift the fibers, then sand again.
5. Brush off dust and fill joints, cracks and holes.
6. Wait for the putty to dry, prime the surface and lightly sand again to ensure better adhesion to the paint.
7. Wipe with a dry cloth and start painting.

How to remove old paint from wood

If you want to restore old door or modernize the cabinet, to do this you need to remove the old paintwork. In most cases, especially when it comes to painting from the times of the USSR, the paint holds very firmly. If the pigment layer is thin, try removing it with sandpaper; if not, use one of the methods below.

How to remove paint:

DIY wood putty

You can buy putty for wood at any hardware store, but you can also make it yourself, especially if we are talking about large volumes. Making it is quite simple, and you will need completely ordinary materials that every owner can find.

In addition, having mastered the recipe, you can vary the dosage of ingredients, reducing the hardening time or increasing the strength of the composition.

What ingredients are needed for cooking? homemade putty on wood:

• drying oil – 500 ml;
• animal glue 10% - 100 ml;
• turpentine – 125 ml;
• liquid drier – 25 ml;
• liquid soap;
• dry chalk powder.

If you need a large number of putty, increase the amount of ingredients proportionally.

How to prepare putty:

1. Pour animal glue into aluminum pan and heat over low heat, stirring continuously.
2. Add soap, drier, turpentine and drying oil, mix thoroughly until smooth.
3. Sift chalk into a saucepan.
4. Mix the mixture thoroughly until it reaches the consistency of thick sour cream.
5. The only drawback is that this putty must be applied hot, so difficulties may arise with large volumes.

Alternative recipe for wood putty:

If you need to putty a very deep hole, for example, behind a baseboard, it is better to use polyurethane foam, to fill most of the space, and cover the top with putty of a suitable color.

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Wood putty: how to make it yourself and apply it as intended

Greetings. From this article you will learn how wood putty is used to interior works. In addition, I will talk about the types of putties on sale and about in a simple way making a similar mixture from scrap materials.

Who will be interested in this article? I am sure that the proposed instructions will be useful to anyone who has decided to prepare wood for varnishing or painting.

Basic information about the material

Why do you need wood putty? Wood is natural material, on the surface of which there may be cosmetic defects that will certainly appear during painting.

Also, when assembling structures from lumber, small technological gaps will be noticeable at the joints. They will also be noticeable when applying paints and varnishes.

Putty allows you to level out the relief and minor defects of wood, so that the surface after painting looks perfectly smooth. This product is sold in most hardware stores in the form of pastes and mastics, which are applied to the microrelief in one way or another, smoothed and sanded when dry.

The consistency of the product depends on the type of terrain it is designed to work with. The thicker the consistency of the putty, the more intense the relief can be filled with this composition. Conversely, a liquid consistency is suitable for leveling barely noticeable microrelief.

Currently, the range of factory-produced putties is represented by the following modifications:

• Acrylic – easy to use, versatile, characterized by quick drying, but prone to cracking if used incorrectly;
• Nitro putty - made from resins, plasticizers, cellulose ethers and fillers, dries quickly and is moisture resistant;
• Epoxy – characterized by high adhesion, high strength, ease of sanding and durability with any paint and varnish coatings;

The epoxy base for putty is not painted over with stain, but remains several tones lighter. This two-component composition has no other restrictions on use.

• Polymer putty is different at a high price, but it is elastic and, as a result, resistant to cracking even when applied in a thick layer;

• Oil - universal, easy-to-use compositions, which are characterized by an affordable price and long term drying;
• Gypsum is the most affordable means, which, due to the high degree of moisture absorption, is suitable for use exclusively indoors;
• Solvent-based compositions are toxic and are used only in industrial environments.

How to quickly prepare cheap putty

Sometimes you need to level a wooden surface, but you don’t have a leveling compound at hand. Drop everything and run to the store? Or make a high-quality and cheap composition with your own hands?

Of course, to eliminate a small defect on the surface of lumber, you can use improvised means.

How to make your own putty? The instructions are simple: add sawdust to PVA glue and mix until a viscous paste forms.

How to prepare a composition from PVA glue and sawdust, and at the same time achieve the desired consistency? After all, the smaller the irregularities on the surface of the lumber, the thinner the wood putty should be. Conversely, to fill large cracks you will need a composition with the consistency of putty.

You can obtain the required consistency of the mixture as follows:

• By increasing or decreasing the amount of glue;
• By increasing or decreasing the aggregate fraction, that is, the size of sawdust.

To ensure that the mixture is liquid, we collect sawdust not from under the hacksaw, but use filler obtained by sanding lumber with sandpaper. If the defects on the surface are very minor, I recommend sifting the sawdust through a fine sieve before mixing.

As a result, only the smallest and only sawdust of the same size will get into it, which means that the finished putty will be easy to apply.

Now that you have learned what putty for wooden surfaces is, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the features of its use using specific examples.

Preparing the furniture facade for subsequent painting

Wooden furniture facades They are not cheap, but despite this, you will probably find cosmetic defects on their surface. To prevent technological gaps, chips and microcracks from appearing under a layer of paint and varnish materials, you will have to use putty.

The instructions for leveling the wood are as follows:

• Using a wide brush, cover the wooden surface with Ceresite ST17 or any acrylic primer, especially coating those places where the putty will fall;
• Let the surface dry thoroughly (touch-free);

• We prepare the putty for use, for example, mix thoroughly if it is already ready, or mix individual components if the product is based on epoxy resin and hardener;

Rubber spatula - optimal solution for working with smooth and textured surfaces

• Using a narrow spatula, take the mixture from the jar and apply it to a rubber spatula and rubber spatula spread the mixture over the defective area of ​​the surface;

We apply the putty along the recess, and then apply it with a clean spatula across the gap;

• Using a damp, well-wrung out, lint-free rag, wipe the area on which the putty is applied;
• After about 5 minutes, we repeat the procedure in the same place, that is, apply the mixture, level it and rub it with a rag;

• On surface areas with curved shapes, apply putty and immediately form a seam with your finger;
• Of course, the putty will remain on the surface, but it can be wiped off with a damp cloth before it dries;
• After all the reliefs are filled, let the product dry completely (drying time is indicated on the packaging of the product);

• After complete drying, we inspect the part for the presence of reliefs on the putty, and if there is relief, repeat the leveling procedure;

Wood putties, regardless of their composition and consistency, decrease in volume when dried. As a result, a relief will appear on the leveled surface, which can only be eliminated by reapplying the leveling paste.

• We sand the surface with sandpaper in two passes, with a medium degree of abrasiveness and a lesser degree of abrasiveness from what is available;
• After leveling, we remove dust and additionally prime the surface with film-forming compounds in order to ensure not only good adhesion of the wood to the paintwork material, but also good painting over the entire surface.

What can be concluded from this instruction?

First of all, wood putty does not like to be rushed. If you want to get a normal result, level and sand the surface 2-3 times. If you want to hide the texture of the wood along with the relief, sand it even more thoroughly.

Leveling a wooden table top for painting with a solid color

Now that you know how to putty wooden surfaces while maintaining texture, I suggest you read the instructions for completely leveling the surface.

The advantage of this method is that there is no dust during grinding, which means you can work directly indoors.

For comparison - a surface painted with pre-treatment and a surface painted without preparatory leveling

Let's find out how to putty wooden surfaces. I will talk about the leveling method using the example of finishing a small wooden table top.

• We begin leveling the surface by sanding, and sandpaper we lead along the fibers;

• Apply primer deep penetration in order to strengthen the fibers of the top layer and ensure sufficient adhesion.
• After the primer has completely dried, mix the putty in the jar until it reaches the desired consistency;

• Apply the leveling mixture to the wood with a rubber spatula, in the direction of the grain, and then across it;
• Immediately, the first time, we try to apply a leveling layer in such a way that there is as little relief as possible;

• Along the edge of the countertop, with a damp, wrung-out cloth, remove excess mixture;

• Place 800-grit sandpaper in a plaster float and wet it generously;

• Using wet sandpaper, in a circular motion, sand the putty surface until completely level;
• Using a damp, wrung-out cloth, wash off the dirt from the surface of the product and inspect it for the need for re-leveling;

• If the texture of the countertop is clearly expressed, we re-apply the putty and grind the surface to a perfectly smooth state;
• After the leveling process is completed, coat the countertop with primer and paint.

Answers to frequently asked questions

1. Which is correct - putty or putty?

Spelling dictionaries say that both options can be used to denote a liquid or paste mixture intended for leveling wooden surfaces before painting.

1. What is the difference between wood putty and regular putty?

Leveling mixtures for application to lumber contain wood filler or similar components, which, as they dry, form an almost monolithic structure with the base. If you use regular plaster mixtures, due to the difference in structure, cracks are likely to appear.

1. What putties are best to use for furniture restoration?

If you plan to paint a leveled surface with well-covering compounds, I recommend using compounds that are epoxy based. To treat wood under stain and varnish, I recommend using acrylic putties, which combine affordable price And high quality finished result.

1. How long does it take for a layer of putty to dry?

It all depends on the type of product used and the thickness of the applied layer. Each manufacturer indicates the drying time on the packaging of the mixture. Either way, it will take at least an hour to dry to touch.

1. Why is there colored putty and there is white?

Leveling mixtures are divided into already colored products and products that can be tinted yourself. Thus, if you need putty a certain color, you can buy a colorless mixture and additionally mix color into it.

1. What kind of putty can be used for a bath?

For finishing surfaces in rooms with humid air, a waterproof two-component epoxy-based mixture or nitro putty is suitable. By the way, it will not be possible to additionally protect the putty with primer and varnish, since in saunas paints and varnishes do not apply.

Conclusion

Now you know what wood putty for interior work is and how to use it for its intended purpose. I am sure that the article and the instructions provided in it were useful to you. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments to what you read. I will definitely answer everything.

When working with wooden surfaces, you can’t do without putty. It helps to hide irregularities, pits, and depressions that can remain even after the most thorough sanding. During restoration, during decoration wooden furniture she is needed. It is also needed to hide the joints between the wooden floor elements.

The putty must have characteristics of adhesion, hardness, softness, and degree of moisture absorption that correspond to the properties of wood. Otherwise, if it gets deep into the wood through a gap in the solid wood, for example, it will turn into a deforming factor and split the board. It is always worth purchasing a special putty.

Why were so many of its types invented?

There are different types of wood putty, and there is plenty to choose from. It is important not to get confused and buy the best one. You can accidentally apply it incorrectly, make a mistake if you don’t have the skill, or a diploma in acquiring a construction specialty. Errors will have to be eliminated, which means additional deformation of the original structure.

If the putty is not particularly suitable, after a few months you will have to start working again. This cannot continue for long, of course. Wooden elements will soon simply become unusable.

Furniture restoration, repairs, decor creation is creative process. An amateur should be able to cope with the task. This, of course, is taken into account by manufacturers when creating finishing materials. The work will progress, the result will be wonderful.

Correcting defects will not be difficult, the wood will not be damaged if you spend a little more time shopping, study the options that are on sale, new items and long-familiar items. Which wood putty is best? This will tell you the composition, properties, characteristics.

Acrylic putty

Requires delicate handling, calls for careful actions and is fragile, thin sheet plywood and timber. Natural materials They help create a magical atmosphere; you don’t want to break this connection or change the surface topography.

Acrylic putty is elastic, ideal for eliminating defects such as small cracks. Easy to apply thin layer. Created on a water basis, environmentally friendly, safe. It is used for processing smooth wooden surfaces and for eliminating cracks at the junction of parquet slabs, between boards.

The classic version of acrylic putty is a white paste. It is sold in finished form, you just need to mix it and get to work. White color, perhaps, can be a minus. It is completely irrelevant when you want to emphasize that the material is still wood.

In this case, you can choose a novelty, invention recent years, tinted acrylic putty. It’s not a problem to find the appropriate shade by looking at a photo of wood putty.

Latex putty

This variety is characterized by very high rates of adhesion - the ability to stick to a surface. Ideal fixation is also ensured by its softness. Latex putty will not crack when impacted or pressed on two different elements of a single structure made of wood.

In other words, the parquet will last a little longer, and you can safely rest on a tabletop made of two boards. Also, as in the case of acrylic putty, you can choose the appropriate shade, which is also a significant advantage.

This characteristic of wood putty, such as a high degree of adhesion, is very important when working with surfaces located at an angle. Latex putty will not drain if the joints between wooden planks located on the ceiling.

It can be used instead of glue. It is convenient, practical, and profitable from a financial point of view, although it is more reliable to use glue, of which there are many varieties.

Epoxy putty

This variety is made on the basis epoxy resins– safe, possessing unique properties substances. It has a high degree of resistance to moisture. This is an ideal wood putty for exterior use.

With its help you can correct defects in wooden window frame, fence boards, wooden swing. It is even used for the restoration of yachts and boats.

If you need wood putty for interior work, most often you choose acrylic. Epoxy is a little more difficult to work with; it has a different consistency. It takes more effort to mix the mixture in the jar.

On the other hand, it does not dry out so quickly. It is suitable for doors and floors. You can’t also apply stain to it, so sometimes it’s not relevant.

Oil putty for wood

This putty has a simple composition and excellent properties. It is resistant to moisture, copes well with its main task - filling cracks and other irregularities. It is easy to apply and sand.

It is used both for external and internal work, but it takes a long time to dry. You need to pay attention to the weather if you are leveling the surface of fence boards, for example. Oil based wood putty is available in different shades.

Polymer putty

The water base makes working with polymer putty easy. Everything is easy to do, anyone can handle the task. It is not suitable in some cases though. It should not be used to treat surfaces made of very soft woods, such as cork, or, conversely, very hard ones, such as oak.

It is valued because with it you can forget about shrinkage of the putty layer. This is very good quality. To eliminate large gaps between boards and not only for this, it is worth choosing it.

Photo of wood putty

To restore wooden surfaces, putty for the appropriate purpose is most often used. There are many formulations on the market that have different performance qualities . Depending on the component base, wood putty for exterior use can be used in the restoration of doors, furniture, panels and other surfaces made of natural building materials. In order not to make a mistake with the choice suitable remedy, necessary determine in advance the coating requirements and compare them with the capabilities of the putty.

Properties of acrylic compositions

Such compositions are designed to remove various defects on wooden surfaces, so they have enhanced primer properties. One of the main advantages that acrylic wood putty is characterized by is non-toxicity. That is, it can be safely used when decorating residential premises. Regardless of the temperature, the coating will not release toxic substances.

It is also worth noting the water-repellent properties. This is convenient, both from the point of view of installation and in terms of further operation - no need to worry about losing your working qualities and loss of structure due to moisture. Therefore, it is possible to carry out wet cleaning surfaces. And the ease of application is also facilitated by the elasticity of such compositions. Also, acrylic wood putty has become famous thanks to its durability. It protects the boards from fire, and itself resists the destructive effects of high temperatures.

Properties of epoxy putty

Epoxy putties are classified as two-component compositions. They are based on petroleum resin, pigment additives and organic solvents in the form of special plasticizers. The result is durable filler of defects, resistant to deformation and destruction of various nature . Epoxy putty for wood owes its popularity largely to its organic interaction with the structure of this material. It forms reliable connection, which is resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For this reason, it is often used in exterior work before painting.

Unlike many means additional processing such compositions do not have a strong chemical odor and do not shrink. But the coating can be sanded. Determining which putties are best for preparing the material exterior finishing For further painting, epoxy compounds should be considered first. They are not only characterized by resistance to external influences, but also serve as an excellent basis for the final decorative design. True, such coatings take quite a long time to harden - it may require up to 24 hours for complete drying.

Properties of oil putty

This mixtures consisting of oil, chalk and water. Also, to provide the compositions with performance characteristics, special additives and the same plasticizers can be used. Among the main positive properties of this coverage stands out durability and reliability. This is the reason why oil putties are used in the treatment of floor surfaces. wooden coverings. But to receive good result, as in the case of epoxy compounds, you will have to wait long time until the applied mass has completely hardened.

Properties of polymer putties

This is another tool that is advisable to use when working with wooden floors. IN in this case water base complemented by polymers. The composition is characterized by a high hardening rate, environmental safety, absence of destructive processes after long-term operation and practicality. Choosing what type of putty to use in a residential building or apartment, it is worth paying attention to polymer mixtures.

They are good not only for the absence of toxic fumes, but also for their ability to protect edges wooden elements finishing from clogging. This material does not collect dust, which is convenient during the installation process. Such coatings also perform their direct function of filling defects flawlessly, eliminating even deep cracks and dents. But there are also restrictions on use. Polymer putty not recommended for use on floorboards and cork flooring.

Characteristics of Tikkurila putty

Specially for processing wooden surfaces and products The manufacturer has developed the composition “spakkeli pukitti”. This is a product with a water-repellent effect that organically recreates the texture of the most common types of wood used in finishing works Oh. In this series, Tikkurila offers options for covering pine, beech, birch, oak and other types of wood. The characteristics of the composition can be presented as follows:

• Scope of application – for doors, furniture, wall and ceiling panels etc.
• Standard container – 0.5 l.
• Fillability – 2 mm without cracking.
• Thinner – water base.
• Application - using a spatula.
• Hardening time - you can start grinding a thin layer after 4 hours, and a thick layer dries out within a day.
• Composition density – 1,800 g/l.
• The percentage of dry residue is 67%.
• Storage conditions: together, protected from frost.

If you need to choose a universal putty mixture for finishing work indoors, then the “spakkeli pukitti” option may be optimal. It can be used for ceiling restoration and in work with floor coverings, as well as when preparing walls.

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