DIY world - homemade circular saw. Making a hand-held or stationary circular saw with your own hands Homemade circular saw with a motor from a walk-behind tractor

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A saw from a walk-behind tractor is a reality that has made it possible to further expand the functionality of this agricultural equipment. Now, having in your arsenal only one walk-behind tractor and various attachments, you can cope with any task at your dacha.

So, for example, using circular saw- attachments for walk-behind tractor can be processed wooden beams for construction and to prepare firewood.

Types of circular saws for walk-behind tractors

There are two types of nozzles:

  • factory models;
  • homemade consoles.

Today, finding a factory-made circular attachment for a walk-behind tractor on sale is quite problematic, therefore, most owners of motorized agricultural devices prefer to make such equipment with their own hands.

Advantages of walk-behind circular saws

Let's name a few compelling advantages that influence the choice of owners of dachas and private houses:

  1. Possibility to produce various carpentry work without access to the power grid.
  2. The mobility of the device - it can be quickly mounted, and just as quickly disassembled, sawing building materials directly near the workpieces.
  3. Cost-effective - the owner of the walk-behind tractor makes the most of the unit without spending money on other things target equipment, which will require investments.
  4. Compact dimensions - the nozzle is always smaller than a full-fledged device, so it will not take up much space when stored.

It is worth paying attention to the performance of the walk-behind tractor engine, it will provide required power a circular attachment powered by a walk-behind drive, rather than by a conventional electric motor.

It is best to use units with a power of 3, 4 or more horsepower. At the same time, it is worth considering that professional circular saws are powered by a 3-kilowatt electric motor, and 1 kW is 1.35962 horsepower.

Manual circular saws intended for short-term sawing of thin boards require a power of 1.5-2 kW. Therefore, based on the planned work, we select a working body with the appropriate characteristics.

Is it possible to make a homemade circular saw with an engine from a walk-behind tractor?

On the Internet you can find many diagrams and descriptions for creating a circular attachment for a walk-behind tractor yourself. One option is to use a table made of beams. The structure is connected together using bolted connections. IN in this case the motor is disconnected from the walk-behind tractor and secured directly under the table top on a cross board. A specially made hinge will securely secure the power unit in a pre-marked location on the frame.

You will also need a spindle from a bicycle and a D8 or D6 sprocket from the motor. Naturally, you will need a shaft, a bushing, a metal plate 4-5 mm thick and the circular saw itself.

The scheme is as follows:

There are other options for making an attachment on the Internet that use a belt drive and three-groove pulleys - in this case, the engine is not removed from the walk-behind tractor.

We invite you to watch a video about the operation of a homemade circular saw driven by a walk-behind tractor:

A DIY circular saw is in a great way save a lot cash and at the same time acquire fairly high-quality and reliable equipment. A properly assembled homemade circular saw is in no way inferior to a factory saw and is also capable of sawing logs of even very large diameters.

The circular saw is used for smooth cut lumber.

How to make a homemade circular saw?

In order for the circular saw to easily cut large logs, it is necessary to equip it with a truly powerful electric drive. In addition, for this purpose, a belt drive, a shaft and a motor with high strength traction. All hand-made circular saws consist of two parts: upper and lower.

At the bottom there is always various electrical equipment, namely:

  • saw motor;
  • transformer;
  • device that starts the circular machine.

At the top of the circular saw install:

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Large homemade circular saw

When making a frame for the top of the saw, it is best to use a metal corner 25 mm wide. In this case, the rectangle, which will represent the frame of the upper part of the homemade circular, should have dimensions of 600x400 mm. Next, four pipes are welded in the corners of this quadrangle, the diameter of which should be 17 mm and the height should be approximately 2.2 m.

After this, it is necessary to strengthen two corners on the frame, on which the bearings will later be fixed. The distance between these corners directly depends on the length of the shaft. To fix bearings, as a rule, clamps are used. It is best if the bearings installed on a homemade circular are closed type. This way you won't have to worry about wood shavings will fall into the space between the balls, rings and separator. Don't forget to also cut a thread at the very end of the shaft so that you can install a cutting blade on it later.

The lower part of the circular saw should be made much more massive, which will provide it with the necessary stability and reliability. Therefore, when making the lower frame, you need to take a corner with a width of at least 40 mm. Next, across the frame it is necessary to secure two additional corners, which will later support the motor of the homemade circular saw. The most suitable motor for a DIY circular saw is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of at least 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm. The pulley stream must have enough big size, approximately 80 mm, and it should be mounted directly on the shaft itself. In addition, you will need to weld a fairly small metal platform, on which it will be placed starting device. Large pipes 2.2 m long, which you previously welded in the corners of the frame, are necessary for high-quality tension of the belt so that the metal wings press the thin pipes.

Now you need to insert both the lower and upper parts of the homemade saw into the finished supports made of pipes, and then tighten and tighten the belt with metal wings. You can start the motor in this model of circular machine yourself using starting capacitors. In order to additionally load the motor and increase its torque, you can use a 220/36,400 W transformer.

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Pendulum circular saw with electric motor

You can make a homemade circular saw quite easily to cut logs and pieces of wood, the thickness of which corresponds to the strength of the electric drive installed on it. If you intend to work with large and very thick pieces of wood, then you should equip your homemade saw a truly powerful electric motor, and also install a shaft and belt drive on it. The best solution in this case, a special pendulum frame will be installed.

When making a pendulum circular with your own hands, only very strong steel corners should be used as the material for the frame. Next, on the finished steel frame you will need to place all the mechanisms necessary for the normal operation of a homemade circular saw. With this design, you can personally, without any special effort set the flight altitude of the cutting disc, while avoiding excessive design difficulties.

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Mini circular saw: manufacturing instructions

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Mini-circular base

To make such homemade products you will need:

  • two metal plates;
  • wooden beam;
  • spindle from a bicycle;
  • star;
  • chain.

The mini-circular must be placed on a strong and stable table, since any swinging can pose a danger to human health and also interfere with normal operation with a saw. Before you start making a machine from a hand-held circular saw, you need to make a special table. In this case, you can use metal sawhorses and a regular old one as a bed. kitchen table. First you need to connect the sawhorses to each other with a wide wooden board thickness of at least 50 mm, and then fix the kitchen table on this base.

You can make the tabletop itself from two metal (preferably steel) plates with a cross-section of about 4 mm. In addition, you can use thick wooden blocks for this purpose.

It is important not to forget to leave between metal sheets a small gap, the size of which is usually 10-12 mm.

In this case, you need to make sure that the edges of the metal plates are perfectly parallel to each other. Now that the table is completely ready, you can begin attaching the circular saw itself to it. It is important to note that it should be secured from below, and in such a way that its cutting disk is directly in the gap between the two sheets of the tabletop.

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in living conditions. In principle, it won’t be difficult to make a circular saw yourself even if you don’t have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. Required material You can usually find it in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner will do here, profile pipe rectangular section and engine. The assembled circular saw can be placed on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for the circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use a unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Manual device from an angle grinder

If the farm has a grinder, then better adaptation for manual circular saw can not found. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes two segments in its design metal corner small cross-section located on both sides saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and back sides with a transverse ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. Basically, special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part with which the handle is attached to the gearbox are equipped with holes for fasteners. There's one here important point: the ends cannot be riveted to prevent the handle from bending during the operation of a circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjustment rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how you can convert an angle grinder at home into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Mini table saw

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two equal parts, which after installation are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame with a clamp. The hand-held circular saw table assembly can function as cutting machine, if you install a standard cutting disc on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and to process larger lumber you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed further.

Stationary machine

A circular saw, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, so before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or storage room, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the picture, homemade circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular and also mounting circular table with our own hands, we will consider each part of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of the cut will be uneven. It is better to make cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle of 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side stop. The homemade table on which the circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.

Saw blade

The toothed disk should rise above the surface of the table of the circular saw by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the same parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, a motor with a power of 1 kW will also be required. For workpieces with a diameter of over 150 mm, a mini circular saw made by hand is unlikely to be suitable. At some factory circular machines a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closure of parts of the sawn workpiece, so it can also be very useful in the case when a homemade circular saw is assembled.

Adjustable side support

It is possible to install a high-quality stop from a steel angle with a cross-section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm greater than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on homemade table circulars in a given position using bolts. This element is adjusted according to a template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft installed on the circular saw is the most critical component, so its turning and testing together with the disk should be carried out exclusively by a specialist using special equipment. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is immediately excluded, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution will be the purchase of a finished shaft with seat for cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the unit you made yourself will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case ideal option will V-belt drive, but it is better to abandon the rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail suddenly gets caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to fracture, which can lead to injury. If inner diameter If the belt drive pulleys are small, slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually selected based on engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw wheel, the higher its rotation speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.

Motor

Among homemade devices The most popular is a circular machine assembled from an engine from washing machine.This choice is explained by the fact that the scheme of its operation the best way suitable for such purposes. Unlike the commutator units that are usually supplied with power tools, the motor from a washing machine operates at lower speeds, which means that it shows more long work, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible various kinds clogs. You can also use three phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and operating capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.

The universal walk-behind tractor module that we built is suitable not only for transport. Its engine produces up to 2 hp. can successfully work in another field. For example, it will operate a circular saw. The power is quite enough to cut boards up to 50 mm thick and 20 mm chipboard, fibreboard. And you will appreciate the advantage already at the beginning of construction, when garden plot Electricity has not yet been supplied.

The basis of the machine is a durable table made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 80x60 mm and a length of about 650 mm, as well as boards with a cross-section of 120x40 mm. The entire assembly is carried out using screws, but better - using bolts and nuts with M6 threads. Wooden parts Before assembly, for strength, they are additionally lubricated with glue - wood glue, casein or epoxy.
The tabletop is cut from a whole sheet of plywood 12...15 mm thick or chipboard 20 mm thick. Its dimensions are 1000x550 mm.
The power unit is located under the table and is mounted on a board-crossbar with a cross-section of 120x40 mm using a horizontal hinge consisting of two forks, pre-bent from steel strips 4 mm thick and 80 mm wide. They are connected to each other using a long bolt with an M8 thread or a threaded rod with nuts and washers. One of the forks is mounted on the crossbar, the other on the connecting flange of the power unit.
The spindle is a housing with bearings and a shaft. The easiest way for this purpose is to use a unit from an old bicycle on which the pedals and a large sprocket rotate. Carefully cut it from the frame with a hacksaw and disassemble it. A bicycle sprocket will not be needed - it will have to be replaced with another - from a D6 or D8 engine. And so that it sits tightly on the shaft, on lathe grind out the adapter sleeve. Check its dimensions locally. Weld the sprocket to the bushing according to the figure.
It is more difficult to install a circular saw on the spindle. Here you will need to take into account the diameter mounting hole circular saw and accordingly determine the outer diameter of the adapter threaded bushing. The bushing is attached to the spindle at two or three welding points through holes drilled in the wall. The saw is finally secured to the bushing with a nut and locknut.
Weld a plate of steel sheet 4-5 mm thick and attach it to the tabletop with screws.
Install an additional sprocket on the shaft of the power unit, the diameter of which is 2.5 times larger than that installed on the spindle. Make sure that both sprockets are located strictly in the same plane. The length of the chain is selected so that the power unit is located horizontally. If it turns out that the horizontal hinge is loose after assembly, secure the power block at the back with two cables - they will prevent it from moving to the right or left.
The rotation speed of the circular saw is regulated by a pedal (see figure) connected by a cable to the carburetor throttle valve. The pedal is bent from a steel sheet 2.5 mm thick and is hinged to the table leg on an M10 threaded rod with nuts and washers. The cable sheath is fixed on a stop bent from a steel strip with a cross-section of 30x3 mm. The pedal area is covered with corrugated rubber.
We warn you that a rapidly rotating saw can cause injury if handled carelessly. Therefore, strictly follow safety precautions. The work area must be equipped with a movable cover that covers the saw during operation. The casing is bent from tin or duralumin and mounted on a lever hinged on the side of the table. When sawing boards into slats, feed it into work area should be done not by hand, but by a pusher - a wooden block at least 300 mm long.
Operating a motor driven machine internal combustion different from electric ones. This is due to the need to use the throttle pedal. Therefore, remember, before feeding the workpiece, you should fully gain momentum by pressing the gas pedal all the way. And during work you will have to constantly correlate the feed force, spindle speed and optimal pedal position.
It would be nice to equip the machine with a sawdust collector. Make a box out of roofing iron and installed with a slight slope under the disk. Make sure that the carburetor air intake hose is not in
dusty area. Otherwise, the engine will stop frequently and its service life will decrease. Also, try to position the machine so that the engine is constantly blown by the wind.

N. Papiny, engineer
Source: Lefty 1991


Circular saw based on a universal walk-behind tractor: 1 - bed leg ( wooden block cross section 60x80 mm); 2 - longitudinal element of the base of the bed (board with a section of 40x120 mm), 3 - table top (sheet of plywood 12 - 15 mm thick or particle board 20 mm thick (dimensions - 550x1000 mm); 4 - bushing-roller chain driving the machine spindle; 5 - circular saw; 6 - universal power walk-behind tractor based on a B50 or B-501 engine; 7 - carburetor throttle drive cable; 8 - pin of the power unit suspension hinge (bolt or threaded rod M8 with nuts and washers); 9 - fastening the spindle to the tabletop (M6 screws with nuts and washers); 10-axis spindle (modified pedal shaft of a bicycle carriage); 11 - nut for fastening the circular saw; 12- washers-spacers; 13 - spindle mounting bracket (steel strip 4 mm thick); 14 - spindle bearing housing (bicycle carriage housing); 15 - driven spindle sprocket (modified sprocket from D6 or D8 engine); 16 - clamp; 17 - axis of the carburetor throttle valve drive pedal (steel threaded rod M10 with nuts and washers); 18 - cable stop (steel strip 3 mm thick and 30 mm wide); 14 - pedal return spring; 20 - throttle valve drive pedal (gas pedal); 21-lining (corrugated rubber); 22 - screw; 23, 27 - fork of the power unit suspension hinge (steel strip with a cross-section of 4x80 mm); 24 - M8 threaded bolts and nuts securing the fork to power unit; 25 - cross member of the frame (board with a section of 40x120 mm); 26 - screws

How can I make a circle with your own hands?

Circular saw. this is perhaps one of the most useful and necessary tools for a master engaged in the construction of private housing or the construction of his own country house. At the same time, many craftsmen are interested in how to make a circle with their own hands in order to save on purchasing it. Presented online today a large number of various options, each artist adds something to their design. We won't search for everyone available options, but we will look at the most popular ones, according to which many homemade circulars have already been made.

Circular saw with Bulgarian

This is perhaps the most common version of the homemade circular saw. The advantage of this option is the simplicity of the design. You don't need to think about how to transfer the rotation of the motor to the spindle, how to organize everything necessary structures pulleys, etc. in the Bulgarian design, this is all already provided for. Naturally, to turn into a circular saw, you need to use a fairly powerful model that will provide high-quality cut. In principle, the transformation itself here comes down to replacing grinding disc onto the saw and secure the device to a stable surface.

However, there are also such disadvantages:

  • a disk with a large diameter cannot be placed in Bulgarian;
  • The angle grinder can only be attached from the side, so the width of the sawn wood will be limited.

Read also

Therefore, it is better to make a circular saw. it attaches easily with bottom side table right in the center and allows the use of large disks. To do this, attach the saw blade to the tabletop using screws. The maintenance of special equipment of this kind, although independently manufactured, is best left to professionals to protect yourself from injury.

Circular their hands/How make a circular from an engine from an automatic washing machine

In this video you will see the most powerful and high-revving circular in the world with your own hands,Building a Table saw, .

Circular

Example homemade machine. circulars from improvised means. Quite a good option. Tool:.

Powerful pendulum saw

This is a more powerful and, therefore, more productive saw; a fairly powerful separate electric motor is used to drive it. To work with particularly thick wood, it is recommended to make a circuit according to the following scheme:

  • a strong stationary frame is welded;
  • At the bottom there is a smaller lift frame, which is attached to the main frame using the outer edge and connected to the height adjuster from the front edge. Such a regulator can be made of a vertical threaded pin and rotary mechanism, which changes the height of the position of the saw and the height of its exit from the tabletop to the surface of the disk;
  • In addition, a system is required for connecting the motor and the saw; for this, the design must provide appropriate shafts and.

The important point is the round table

Read also

The main difference between a circular saw and a simple circular saw is its stationary nature. Therefore, we need to create a special round table.

For the tabletop, you can take thick plywood 2 cm thick or just a tabletop from an old table. It is indicated below under the mounting of the circular saw and under the installation of the stiffening ribs to which the table legs will be attached.

In addition, stiffening elements are required around the entire perimeter of the table. They need to be glued to wood glue and tightened with a clamp until completely dry. Then the edge joints are tightened with screws.

It is recommended to install the table legs in the spreader to keep the table stationary during operation. and this is very important for the quality of the cut. You will also need a guide plate to hold the workpiece in place on the table. It is attached to the countertop docks in such a way that it can be moved, for example you can use a small vise to fix it.

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