By ordering installation work from the Thermodynamics company, you will definitely receive an additional discount on equipment and materials.
It is advisable to think through the heating system during the construction of the house. It is necessary to provide niches for risers in advance, and if necessary, a separate room for the boiler room. But even if the house has already been built, you can find a way out of any situation, especially since modern technologies they allow it. To begin installing the heating system, the house must have a roof and windows. Pipes can be laid hidden wiring, for example, install them in the floor, in screeds specially designed for this purpose. If it is not possible to do this, then you will have to lay it in the walls. It is more advisable to install the heating when the walls are already plastered, but the screed has not yet been poured, so that after installing the radiators you do not have to pick at the plaster and adjust the terminals. You can carry out installation in this way - first make pipe leads with a reserve, and after plastering the walls, hang and connect the radiators. But this method takes longer. For maximum accuracy, it is better to follow the following technology. First of all, you need to hang all the radiators, but you do not need to remove the film from them until the heating system is started. If the exits to the radiators will pass from the wall, then it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the grooves, remove the radiator and groove places for the pipes. When everything is ready, you need to hang the radiators back, route the heating pipes and connect them to the radiators. It is better to cover the places where the eyeliner comes out of the wall with alabaster. When the solution has hardened, the radiators can be removed and placed away from the place where the finishing work will take place, otherwise even a film will not save them from damage and dust. If the finishing work in the house has been completed, there is still the option of installing hidden wiring. Heating pipes can be laid along the walls, below, in boxes specially designed for them. In professional language, this installation of pipes is called “plinth wiring.” You can pay money and turn to Western pipe manufacturers - you can buy a ready-made “plinth wiring” system from them, with all the materials and well-thought-out components. But, if you don’t want to pay extra money, you can do this wiring yourself. By the way, you can use plastic ones as boxes. These are often used to hide electric wires. If the heating system of your home uses triple wiring, it is better to lay the pipes along the walls, but at the same time step back 10-15 cm so as not to spoil them when you nail the baseboards. In the last century, heating systems had slopes towards the taps for drainage. Currently, the designs of modern systems do not allow this to be achieved, and there is no point in doing so. But the main point that needs to be taken into account when laying is that there should be no large “humps” in the pipes, that is, you need to make sure that over time they do not appear in the heating system. air jams. If this problem cannot be avoided, there is a way out - you need to install an automatic air vent at the top point. To go around a doorway with pipes, it is advisable to run them along the floor rather than lay them around the entire opening along the top, thereby creating a large loop. It is not advisable to install a heating system in cold rooms. As a rule, manufacturers polymer pipes warn that you should not install them at temperatures below 7 degrees. The fragility of metal-plastic pipes increases during operation at low temperatures, welding of polypropylene pipes deteriorates, and soldering copper pipes It’s not worth it at all - the low temperature is quite noticeable. Therefore, it is worth thinking in advance and calculating the installation so that the system is launched before the cold weather begins.
In this article we will consider the design of a heating system if Tichelman scheme(passing-overlapping), which was already mentioned in one of the previous articles. A separate article is devoted to this scheme because of its (the scheme, not the article) advantages.
Wiring device according to the Tichelman scheme
Let me remind you: Tichelman’s scheme looks something like this:
The main advantages of the Tichelman scheme: versatility, good adjustability (each radiator can be adjusted separately).
All radiators operate under almost identical conditions in terms of coolant flow and pressure drop, with equal areas surfaces they have equal heat transfer.
Despite the apparent complexity, this complexity is... just apparent. You just need a little practice drawing such diagrams on plans.
How to bypass the door when installing a heating system according to the Tichelman scheme?
What should you do if you encounter any obstacles during installation according to the Tichelman scheme? For example, a door:
And not only when installing a pipeline according to the Tichelman scheme, but also according to any other scheme.
There are several options.
Simplest:
Here the door is fitted with a pipe on top.
Important! An automatic air vent must be installed in the area above the door to prevent air from accumulating.
Minus: the appearance of the room will be the same; especially if it's living room, not the hallway. Yes, the automatic air vent tends to leak from time to time, which is also not pleasant.
Another variant:
We pass under the door. That is, the pipe goes below the floor level. Is there such a possibility? Not always: maybe the floor is already done, or maybe there’s such a screed that you can’t go further...
“Normal heroes always take a detour...” So we can go around the room in the opposite direction:
Why not?
Tichelman scheme for piping radiators on two floors
This option is shown in the figure:
Moreover, here not each floor individually is connected according to the Tichelman scheme, but the entire system. The main pipes (supply and return) are metal-plastic with a diameter of 20 mm, the radiators are connected to them with a 16 mm pipe.
Tichelman scheme for piping radiators on three floors
Let's look at the picture:
Here, too, not each floor has its own piping, but one piping made according to Tichelman’s scheme for all three floors at the same time. The risers are made, for example, metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 26 mm, supply and return on the floors with a diameter of 20 mm, and outlets to the radiators with a 16 mm pipe.
But still! If possible, it is better to connect each floor separately and with its own pump, otherwise, if there is only one pump for all floors, then if the pump fails, there will be no heating on all floors at once.
So, let's draw conclusions.
The Tichelman scheme has advantages over other radiator piping schemes: 1) versatility (suitable for any rooms, layouts, etc., including large areas); 2) all radiators heat up evenly. Despite the external complexity, mastering the installation of heating using this scheme is quite accessible. Just read again about the diameters of the pipes for such wiring. And - use it. Good luck.
Tichelman scheme
Ensuring a comfortable stay in the premises of the house at any time of the year is one of the main concerns of the owners. But efforts to insulate walls and install an appropriate heating system may be in vain if heat escapes freely through windows or doors. This is especially true for those buildings in which, for one reason or another, they are opened very often or even long time remain in the open position.
A simple situation: the owners of the house open some kind of family business - a workshop, a store or office space. On the one hand, numerous clients are great, but at the same time, frequent opening of doors can quickly cool down even a well-heated room, and this means serious energy costs. Another option is that the specific nature of the activity of a private workshop, equipped in a garage or in a special extension, requires constant or very frequent opening of the gate (). To ensure acceptable conditions for effective productive work in winter time will have to spend exorbitant efforts and resources to maintain normal temperature. But there is a way out - in both cases, a thermal curtain on the front door should help.
Why do you need a thermal curtain?
To make it easier to understand the purpose of a thermal curtain, you should first understand how cold air enters the house through open doors. This process is due to several reasons - the difference in temperatures outside and inside the room caused by this difference different level pressure. And plus a very important reason for this - this is movement air masses along the street - wind, vortex flows created by passing vehicles, etc.
Fragment “A” shows the movement of flows of cold and more warm air through a doorway in “quiet” conditions. Cold air is always denser, and high blood pressure it just squeezes out the lighter, warmer one. At the same time, the cold stream is always located closer to the floor - everyone, in their everyday experience, has probably felt how the “cold pulls” down from under a door that is not tightly closed.
To this quite ordinary exchange a wind component is added (fragment “B”). It is, of course, a variable value, depending on the direction and speed of the wind, stability or periodic gusts, the size of the doorway and other parameters, but in general, most often such an application of the vector of movement of air masses is still present.
As a result, as a result of the addition of both factors, the picture shown in fragment “C” is obtained - the “channel” of cold air inflow increases even more in area, occupying most of the doorway. In such conditions, if the door has to be kept wide open or opened frequently, no heating equipment will be able to cope with heating the room, which will “thresh” in vain. In addition, there are constant strong drafts moving through the rooms, sharply increasing the likelihood of colds, even if people are dressed “for the season.”
What if you apply a fairly narrow but dense directed air flow. So that its pressure exceeds even theoretically possible values external and internal pressures (fragment “D”). If the parameters of such a flow are correctly calculated, it will become an obstacle to the exchange shown above, fencing off the air masses outside and inside the room. Somewhat bending its configuration under the influence of external pressure on it, the flow still retains the necessary “collection” and is fragmented only upon reaching the floor surface, dividing into two directions. A certain part goes outside, but still a more significant part returns back into the room (fragment “E”).
How can this effect be used?
- Picture “a” is winter time. The air receives the necessary heating, and the resulting curtain not only does not let cold masses in and does not allow heated ones to escape outside, but also, returning to the room, “provides assistance” to the heating system.
- However, it is too “narrow” to consider the air curtain, only as a kind of heating device, would be a big mistake. Picture “b” shows her work in the warm season. The situation is reversed - the cool indoor air does not escape outside (although its density in the case under consideration is higher), and the outdoor air, heated by the summer heat, cannot penetrate into the room. Thus, the rooms are maintained at a comfortable temperature for people to stay.
- But that's not all. Regardless of the time of year and operating mode, such a curtain performs another important function (picture “c”). There is always a lot of dust suspended in the street air, especially if there is a busy highway or even a railway line in the immediate vicinity. For the same reason, the air can be refilled with exhaust gases. Naturally, if all these “bonuses” get into the premises, the local microclimate will suffer significantly. But a thermal curtain can completely cope with this problem. This also applies to falling snow, light drizzle, and in summer time- hordes of small annoying insects.
- And one more application. With the help of such air curtains, it becomes possible to zone rooms according to the type of microclimate created in them. For example, you can “fence off” a spacious hall at the entrance (where increased air temperature is not particularly needed, and an unreasonably large amount of energy will be spent on heating such a room) from internal living or working spaces, without even installing additional doors.
So, creating an air curtain helps to cope with a large number of problems. And all this can be achieved by installing a special device.
Despite the fact that the air curtain itself is a consumer of electricity, its use provides considerable benefits. Thus, practice shows that a correctly selected and installed device allows you to save up to 30% on energy spent on heating premises in winter and air conditioning in summer. And if the owner thinks more broadly, he will not be able to help but notice that the absence of cold drafts will sharply reduce the cost of medicine for household members or the payment of sick leaves for the staff working for him.
Another important advantage is that with such a rich range of possibilities, the device itself practically does not take up any useful space in the room.
For clarity, here is a small animated video on the principle of operation of thermal curtains:
Video: how a thermal air curtain works
How does an air curtain work?
As a rule, an air heat curtain is an electrical device assembled in a housing with a pronounced elongated shape.
In the upper part of the housing there is a grille (item 1), through which air is taken from the room.
At the bottom there is an exit slit-like window (nozzle) (item 2), which can be equipped with movable curtains like blinds.
Control elements (item 3) can be located on the body itself, in a place accessible for visual control and manipulation. The control panel, in addition, can be remote and located on the wall of the room in convenient location.
The case may have a terminal block for connecting to the power supply, but on models household class most often there is an already connected cable with a plug for connecting to the socket (item 4).
On many modern models In addition, it is also provided remote control using an infrared remote control (the same as in split system air conditioners).
The main task of a thermal curtain is to create a powerful air flow. This means that the main component of the device is the blower fan. Typically, these devices are not the usual blade type, but a turbine type, of two varieties - a more compact radial (item “a”) or elongated tangential view(pos. “b”).
Pos. “c” is a heat exchanger where the air flow, if necessary, receives the required heat. The vast majority of models have an electric heat exchanger, where the air is heated from coils or heating elements. However, there are stationary models of thermal curtains that are connected to existing water heating circuits.
Many modern thermal curtains have built-in filters that simultaneously clean the air driven through the device from suspended dust.
The electronic circuits of modern curtains provide multi-level protection against short circuits, breakdowns to the housing, overheating, and have thermostatic control modules for the heat exchanger heating level and fan rotation speed.
Classification of thermal air curtains
There are several gradations of classification of thermal curtains.
By location relative to the doorway:
- Classic design, most thermal air curtains are devices with horizontal installation above the doorway (gate, window, etc.)
- Sometimes, due to certain technological or aesthetic reasons, installing a thermal curtain from above may be impossible or irrational. For such situations, vertical devices are provided, which are installed in “columns” on one or even both sides of the doorway.
Many models in this regard have increased versatility - their design allows, taking into account the specifics of the room, to be installed in both horizontal and vertical positions.
By installation type:
Most models have a metal case, the design of which involves mounting the device on a wall. However, if to interior design If the premises have any increased requirements in terms of design, then you can select a thermal air curtain that is built into the ceiling or wall along the height of the opening.
By the presence and type of heat exchanger:
All air curtains according to this criterion can be divided into three groups:
- Curtains with electric heat exchanger. Usually in the classification they are marked with serial designations R.S., R.M. or RT.
Advantages - maximum simplicity of design and installation of the device, high efficiency indicators, the ability to smoothly adjust the heating temperature of the air flow.
As heating elements On older models, conventional spirals were used, but now this approach has been abandoned almost everywhere, since open heaters “burn through” oxygen and quickly dry out the air in the room. Currently, tubular heaters are used, similar to the familiar heating elements, or more modern semiconductor PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient), which have the ability to self-regulate heating and electricity consumption.
The disadvantages of electric heat exchangers are significant power consumption (not counting the costs of ensuring fan operation), and some “inertia” during startup - the heat exchanger requires certain time to enter operating mode.
- Thermal curtains with a water heat exchanger (series RW).
In such models, electricity is consumed only to ensure the operation of the fan and control group. This, of course, makes water thermal curtains much more economical during continuous operation.
The housing (outside or hidden) contains pipes for connecting the device to the existing circuit of the water heating system (shown by arrows in the figure).
Pipes for connecting the supply and return of the home heating system The disadvantages of this type of thermal curtains are obvious - there are a lot of difficulties during the installation process. It is necessary to provide for branches from the general contour in advance, and provided that the aesthetics of the interior are preserved, such an operation can be quite problematic. The heat exchanger of such a curtain has a small tubular structure (similar to a radiator in a car), which will quickly clog if a filter device is not provided. In addition, consumed thermal power such an installation must correspond to real possibilities autonomous system heating so that connecting the air curtain does not affect the heating level of radiators in other rooms.
- Air curtains not equipped with a heat exchanger (serial designation – RV).
Such devices are used in conditions where additional air heating is not required. They protect well from the entry of street dust, gas pollution, insects, and from the leakage of conditioned air outside. They are widely used in industrial practice - for zoning spacious rooms, protecting against the entry of warm air into freezers or storage, etc.
By power level (performance) and, accordingly, purpose:
- To the series R.S. include mini-curtains with a limited scope of application. Their performance is sufficient to effectively “curtain” only small openings, for example, visitor reception windows facing a cold hall, or customer service windows in street kiosks, transport ticket offices, etc. Usually they are designed for openings no more than one and a half meters high and up to 800 mm wide.
The air flow rate and pumping volume per minute are low. IN everyday life similar thermal curtains practical application don't get it.
- Thermal curtains series RM- this is the most large group devices that are designed to fit into most existing standard doorways, approximately 2.5 to 3.5 meters in height. Including, they are suitable for or for the transition from a cold hallway to the residential sector of the house.
Mid-class thermal curtain - quite suitable for an entrance door Such devices are the most popular. It is these series that are most often equipped with convenient remote blocks or remote controls management.
- Powerful thermal curtains series RT are used to protect high openings, from 3.5 to 7 meters. This could be the gate of a car repair shop, warehouse or production premises, entrances to large shopping centers or buildings for cultural and social purposes.
Very often it is precisely in this category that powerful installations series RW connected to systems central heating or hot water supply public buildings and industrial buildings. the cost of water thermal curtains is significantly higher than that of electric models comparable in performance and size.
There are also heavy-duty thermal curtains that can create an air barrier in openings and passages up to 12 meters high.
Prices for popular models of thermal curtains for the front door
How to choose the optimal thermal curtain
The choice of a thermal air curtain has its own characteristics, which you should definitely familiarize yourself with before going to the store.
In addition to the selection criteria already mentioned - according to the installation location (horizontally or vertically) and the operating principle of the heat exchanger, be sure to pay attention to the following characteristics:
- The dimensions (mostly the length) of the device itself, that is, the width of the air curtain it creates.
- Performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit of time.
- Power of the heat exchange unit.
- Equipped with useful adjustment options.
- The degree of protection, that is, the level of safety of operation of the device.
- The appearance of the thermal curtain is also important for the interior design of the room.
Heat curtain dimensions
The determining parameter, of course, is the length of the device. It must provide the required air flow across the entire width of the doorway, without allowing free gaps for the penetration of cold or dusty masses from the outside. As a rule, the length of such devices lies in the range of 600 ÷ 2000 mm.
For standard doorways, curtains with a length of about 800 mm are usually purchased. With a competent approach, it should be taken into account that the width of the air flow should be at least equal to the clearance of the doors, but it is even better if it is slightly larger.
There is one more nuance. The production technology of air superchargers somewhat limits the length of the turbine (up to 800 mm), since when such dimensions are exceeded, vibration phenomena sharply increase, which requires a rather expensive “suspension”.
The turbine length is usually limited to 800 mm Trying to minimize costs when producing “long” models, many manufacturers follow the path of simplification: they place the electric drive in the center of the device, and the turbines on the left and right, achieving the required length. Such an arrangement may have a serious drawback - a “dip” or an area of low pressure may form in the center of the created air flow, which can become a loophole for the penetration of air from outside.
If the width of the doorway is greater than the length of the model you like or commercially available devices in general, it makes sense to purchase two curtains (and sometimes more) and install them close to one another.
Heat curtain performance indicators
It is quite clear that the thermal curtain must create an air flow, the “density” of which, that is, the internal air pressure would exceed the external one at any point in the doorway, from the installation site to the floor (the opposite side of the doors).
Calculations have determined that such required parameters are maintained when the speed of the air layer at the point of meeting the obstacle is at least 2.5 m/s. Naturally, due to air resistance, the speed decreases as you move away from the device.
The speed and density of the air flow depend on the working diameter of the turbine, its rotation speed and, therefore, on the overall performance of the injection unit. For example, the table below clearly shows the dependence of the range effective action thermal curtain depending on the diameter of the turbine - in some cases you can focus on the following indicators:
| Distance from the thermal curtain outlet nozzle | Air flow speed depending on the fan installed in the thermal curtain | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fan working diameter | |||||
| Ø 100 mm | Ø 110 mm | Ø 120 mm | Ø 130 mm | Ø 180 mm | |
| 0 m | 9 m/s | 10 m/s | 12 m/s | 14 m/s | - |
| 1m | 7 m/s | 7 m/s | 11 m/s | 10 m/s | - |
| 2 m | 4 m/s | 4m/s | 8 m/s | 7.5 m/s | - |
| 3m | 1.0 ÷ 2 m/s | 1.5 ÷ 2 m/s | 5 m/s | 6 m/s | - |
| 4 m | - | - | 2 ÷ 3 m/s | 5 m/s | - |
| 5 m | - | - | - | 3 m/s | - |
| 6 m | - | - | - | 1.0 ÷ 2 m/s | - |
| 0 m | 8.5 m/s | 8.5 m/s | 12 m/s | 12 m/s | 15 m/s |
| 1m | 6.5 m/s | 6.5 m/s | 10 m/s | 9.5 m/s | 13 m/s |
| 2 m | 3 m/s | 3 m/s | 7 m/s | 9 m/s | 11 m/s |
| 3m | 1.0 ÷ 2.0 m/s | 2 m/s | 4 m/s | 5.5 m/s | 9 m/s |
| 4 m | - | - | 1.0 – 2.0 m/s | 4 m/s | 7 m/s |
| 5 m | - | - | - | 3 m/s | 5 m/s |
| 6 m | - | - | - | 1.0 ÷ 2.0 m/s | 3 m/s |
| 7 m | - | - | - | - | 2 m/s |
| 8 m | - | - | - | - | 1.0 – 2.0 m/s |
Most often in technical documentation The manufacturer directly indicates on the product what maximum dimensions a specific model has been developed for the opening. The system capacity must also be indicated there, usually in cubic meters per hour. It is believed that pumping 700 ÷ 900 m³/h is considered optimal for a standard doorway with dimensions of 0.8÷1.0 × 2.0÷2.2 m. However, if you look at equipment catalogs, you often find curtains with much more modest values. There is no unanimity of views among manufacturers on this issue.
There are special algorithms for calculating the parameters of thermal curtains, which take into account not only the linear indicators of the installation site, but also the location of the entrances to the building, average temperature differences for a particular region, the prevailing wind direction, etc. Such calculations are the domain of specialists, and if the characteristics declared by the manufacturer are not enough for someone to select a model, then they can contact the appropriate design organization.
Why is the issue of productivity so pressing? The efficiency of the air curtain directly depends on it.
- Fragment No. 3 schematically shows the operation of a correctly selected thermal curtain model. The air flow retains its “density” to meet the obstacle, and then approximately ¾ is reflected back into the room.
- Fragment No. 2 – a thermal curtain with excess capacity was installed. The speed at the floor surface is too high, and the flow is broken up in such a way that a significant part of it is carried out. Of course, this leads to completely unjustified losses of expended energy.
- And fragment No. 3 shows what will happen if the capacity of the created flow is not enough. The external pressure of the air masses outweighs, and a wide “window” opens for cold air at the bottom of the doorway. street air. The point of installing such a thermal curtain is generally very questionable - it simply does not play any significant role.
Thermal power of the air curtain
Oddly enough, this indicator for a thermal curtain is not decisive - this is their fundamental difference from seemingly related devices - heat guns or floor-mounted or built-in heating convectors installed near doors and windows.
The operation of the air curtain heat exchanger is not aimed at maintaining the optimal temperature in the room, but only at partially compensating for heat losses through the door. It's clear. that part of the heated air, when operating in “winter” mode, is returned back to the room, but this circulation should only have an auxiliary effect on the heating system operating in the building, but not replace it in any way.
At high speeds of pumping air, giving it too high a temperature is a difficult and very energy-consuming task. Typically, in most models, the temperature increase is limited to 20 degrees at best, and on thermostatic control elements the maximum value, as a rule, does not exceed 30 ° C - more is not required from the thermal curtain.
But it’s worth paying attention to the total power consumption. The parameters of the dedicated power supply line, the machine in switchboard at home, RCD, etc.
Control and protection systems
All electric heat curtains are equipped with two control levels: one is responsible for creating and maintaining a given air performance, and the second is for the operation of the heat exchange unit. At the same time, the protection system will never allow the heater to turn on when the turbine is not working, which protects the device from overheating.
The simplest ones inexpensive models have preset levels of performance and heating of the heating elements, which cannot be changed (the only exception is that you can completely turn off the heating when operating in “summer” mode. However, such low cost and simplified design are hardly justified for use in a private home - everyone wants to be able to optimally adjust the microclimate in room.
More complex models are equipped with stepwise adjustment, for example, they have 2 ÷ 3 turbine power levels and the same number of heat exchanger heating gradations.
However, in Lately However, the most popular are thermal curtains with electronic control, which gives owners the opportunity for smooth, precise adjustments.
The presence of a thermostatic sensor will allow you to significantly save on energy consumption - the automation will turn on or off the block of heating elements only as needed.
Thermal curtains can be equipped with remote control units, which are located on the wall. Models that have remote controls are convenient to use.
Like all modern electrical appliances, the thermal curtain must be equipped with several degrees of protection against short circuits, overheating, phase breakdown on the housing, voltage drops, etc.
Constructors and designers of manufacturing companies try to make thermal curtains externally so that they do not spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. Some models can even become a kind of decoration for the entrance group.
Installation of a thermal curtain
Self-installation of thermal air curtains, although not encouraged by manufacturers, is still quite possible, especially when it comes to the most common ones - completely electric models. In terms of complexity it is much easier to install household air conditioner.
Is it possible to install an air conditioner yourself?
Installing an air conditioner usually requires special skills, since when installing a split system you will need to correctly charge it with refrigerant. How it is produced is in a special publication on our portal.
The main thing is to provide a power line of the required power, the necessary safety and protective devices(automatic and RCD), device connection point.
The thermal curtain kit, as a rule, includes brackets (or a mounting panel) and fasteners for hanging it above the doorway. The entire installation will mainly consist of careful marking, securing the mounting parts to the wall plane and then hanging the device itself. It can be quite massive, so you should exercise reasonable caution, or even better, enlist a helper.
After installing the device, if it is equipped with adjustable blinds, they should be positioned at an angle of approximately 30° from the vertical towards the entrance. On many models, such a flow slope is provided for by the design of the air nozzle itself.
It may be necessary to lay a signal cable and mount the remote control unit on the wall. All these nuances are always described in detail in the installation manual for a specific model, and you should familiarize yourself with them in advance, even when choosing a curtain, in order to really assess your capabilities.
Installation of a curtain with a water heat exchanger is a much more complex undertaking, often requiring special thermal calculations and installation of an additional collector or pumping equipment. It’s not worth taking on such activities without experience.
Find out, and also get professional advice, from our new article.
Video: several recommendations for choosing a thermal curtain for the front door
Heating installation in a private house begins after installation in it roofing and installation of windows and doors.
IN modern construction increased requirements are put forward for the aesthetics of premises, which in relation to heating systems require the installation of heating system communications hidden from view. The pipes are “hidden” in wall grooves or in the floor screed, which is more convenient. If it is not possible to install heating lines in the floor screed (for example, the floor may be wooden), they are installed in the walls.
Blitz conclusion! Installation of home heating is necessary, or rather convenient, to be carried out at the stage of plastered walls, but without a concrete floor screed.
Installation of heating radiators
“Accurate” installation of heating radiators is best done on an already plastered surface, which will avoid their incorrect installation relative to the wall surface.
The optimal option for installing heating radiators may be:
- A radiator is hung on a plastered wall.
- When laying pipes hidden in the walls, the boundaries of the grooves are outlined.
- The radiators are removed from the hangers and “moved” to a sufficiently large distance from the work site. Agree that extra scratches and abrasions on radiators will not add value to them!
- Grooves are cut in the walls for laying the pipeline.
- The radiators are hung in their places, and then the heating pipes are laid out and connected to the radiators.
- The pipes are fixed in grooves at the points where they exit the wall with alabaster or cement mortar.
- After the solution has hardened, the radiators are again disconnected from the system, removed and taken to a “safe” place for them. appearance storage
Heating system installation country house"on top" finishing works can also be done in a hidden way. For this purpose, boxes are used, fixed along the baseboard at the bottom of the walls. In the absence of specialized structural elements for hidden installation For heating in a private house, you can use regular plastic box For electrical work suitable section.
Attention! When installing heating systems, it is necessary to ensure that the system does not form high raised “slides” in which air can accumulate, preventing the coolant from passing through the system. For example, when a heating system pipeline bypasses a door opening, it must be done in the floor, and not create an additional huge loop above the top point of the doorway.
If such “humps” are forced to “emerge,” it is necessary to install automatic air valves at their highest points.
Installation of the heating system of a private house must be carried out in warm rooms, since in the technical documentation of most polymer pipes the manufacturer declares an operating “installation” temperature of >+5 O C. Operating at lower temperatures leads to an increase in the fragility of the pipe material, and the efficiency of welding polypropylene pipe systems is reduced heating and soldering of copper pipes.
Important! Optimal time installation of heating in a private house should ensure the possibility of putting the system into operation before the onset of frost.
Pipe routing when installing heating in a private house
Since heating systems for private houses with forced circulation of coolant in them are currently predominantly used, in this section, in order not to get too scattered, we will focus on a closed two-pipe heating system with forced circulation.
Methods for arranging pipes when connecting heating radiators to the boiler:
- beam circuit (collector version);
- tee circuit;
- mixed (combined scheme.
Installation of heating in a private house with radial (collector) wiring involves connecting each heating radiator to a pair of collectors with separate pipes: supply and return. Each collector, in turn, is connected to the boiler (or other collector) by a pair of pipes: supply and return.
Installing heating with a collector group gives the heating system some positive and negative qualities:
- the possibility of differentiated regulation of the degree of heating of each radiator or group of radiators;
- lack of connections in the floor and walls (a solid pipe is used from the collector to the radiator);
- it is necessary to allocate space for installation of the manifold cabinet;
- correct installation of the manifold group above the level of the main pipelines, which usually run in the floor, allows you to install air valves on the manifolds;
- significantly increasing cost compared to other installation schemes.
Installation of heating and water supply systems using the tee method involves parallel connection radiators to the supply and return pipes, which usually run just above the baseboard along the walls. If such “main” pipes are of a significant length, it should be possible to install pipes of larger diameter at the beginning of the system (from the riser).
“Tee” or parallel installation diagram of heating system radiators A time-tested and fairly effective way to ensure a comfortable stay is two-pipe heating in a private house. This heat supply design allows you to regulate the degree of heating of each room individually, without changing the temperature in other rooms.
A two-pipe heating system for a private house can be used regardless of the number of floors of the building. Distinctive feature This heating method consists in separating the forward and reverse movement of the coolant along the contours of the structure. Read also: "".
Heated liquid from the boiler enters the system through the supply pipeline, it is distributed through radiators, coils and supplied to the “warm floor” system. After going through these elements heating structure, the cooled coolant is discharged back to the boiler using a return pipe.
Advantages two-pipe system heating are obvious:
- ease of adjusting the supply of coolant to each heating battery (read: " ");
- can be used not only in residential one-story buildings, but also in multi-storey buildings;
- It is possible to install a system even of considerable length.
Features of the two-pipe heating system
It is possible to install a two-pipe heating system, and not only with natural circulation liquid heat carrier, but also with forced movement using a special pump. The choice of circulation method is usually influenced by the layout of the forward flow pipe, which can be upper or lower.
The upper wiring method involves laying a straight pipeline at a considerable height, which ensures sufficient pressure to move water through heating batteries without using a pump.
The two-pipe design with top routing looks more aesthetically pleasing and allows the direct current pipeline to pass over doorways throughout the building, as in the photo. It can be hidden under decorative finishing elements.
If two-pipe is selected horizontal system heating with a lower version of the distribution of the supply pipe, it is located below the window sill (read: ""). Then there are no problems with the placement of the expansion tank open type in a heated room. It can be placed in any convenient place, but above the level of the straight pipe. True, in this case you cannot do without the use of a circulation pump. It is also impossible to create a passage through the entrance doorway.
When is a two-pipe heating system created? one-story house and the boiler is mounted close to the entrance to the house, the heating circuit should be laid around the perimeter to the door or divided into two independent lines, each of which has its own direct pipe and return.
The circulation pump is located in the return pipeline so that the high temperature of the coolant at the outlet of the heating boiler does not damage the device. Expansion tank membrane type with closed camera usually placed near the boiler.
A do-it-yourself two-pipe heating system is made using main pipes with a diameter of 25-32 millimeters, but if the system has a significant length, products with a diameter of 50 millimeters or more are used (more details: "").
To connect radiators, use one of existing schemes connections. The most effective are the lateral and diagonal options. The bottom connection is used very rarely - when installing batteries small height, in which the main straight pipe is located above the radiators. For this reason, preference is given to floor-standing boilers.
Two-pipe systems in a two-story private house
Creating two-pipe heating two-story house, a number of nuances should be taken into account (more details: " "). So, if the heated rooms on both floors are not separated by constantly closed doors, then the flow of heated air from the first floor will rise to the second (read: ""). As a result, the microclimate in the house will not be comfortable, since the rooms below will be cool, and the rooms above will be hot and stuffy.This problem can be solved in one of two ways:
- on the top floor, instead of radiators for heating, heated floors are installed;
- distribute the number of batteries so that approximately 2/3 of the sections are installed on the ground floor.
In addition, if a two-pipe heating system is designed multi-storey building(from 3 floors or more), it is advisable to place on the lower level rooms that require less stable heating - a library, kitchen, laundry room, living room (read: " "). But bedrooms and children's rooms should be on the upper floors, since they require more heat (read also: " ").
Features of creating a two-pipe heating system:
- You should install a boiler that has enough power to heat all rooms in the house. The work is carried out strictly according to the instructions.
- The expansion tank is mounted in a place specially prepared for this purpose. Open type container with top method Direct supply wiring is located in the attic or attic. When the tank is installed in an unheated room, it is insulated and a signal pipe is installed, which will warn that the tank is full. A pipe is cut into the top of the tank and led into the bathroom to drain excess liquid if necessary.
- The circulation pump is mounted in the return pipe in front of the boiler.
- Experts recommend when self-installation first study an example of calculating a two-pipe heating system and make the appropriate calculations.
- To remove air trapped in the system, Mayevsky taps are installed.
- When installing a straight coolant supply pipe, ensure a stable slope of approximately 1 centimeter per linear meter. It is done in the direction away from the heating boiler. When arranging the return lines, they act in a similar way; a two-pipe heating system in a private house provides for this, but the slope is made towards the heating unit. Therefore, the highest point of the return pipe should be located at the maximum distance from the boiler.
- Having completed the installation, pressure testing is carried out and the system is filled with liquid coolant. The heat supply to the batteries is adjusted using taps and the temperature is observed to remain stable for one to two days.