Is it possible to putty over paint - recommendations for repairs. How to putty the walls with your own hands using finishing putty. Is it possible to paint the putty with enamel?

Walls or ceilings often require additional leveling during renovation. Since the surface may be painted, before applying putty it is better to ask whether it is possible to putty over the paint or whether you should make an effort and remove it. A fair question arises: will the putty stick?

The first thing that is recommended to do is find out what type of paint was used to paint the surface. Need to wet it warm water, using a sponge for this. If the reaction to water is such that the paint begins to wash off and create foam, then it is a water-based emulsion. It is not recommended to leave it under the putty, because due to the moisture that it draws from it, the painted layer will begin to peel off from the wall, taking the leveling solution with it.

To rid the walls and ceiling of it, you need to moisten them with a spray bottle or a sponge, leave for a quarter of an hour, and then use a spatula, easily removing the excess. After which the surface should be wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry.

The paint may not react to water, as was the case with the water-based emulsion. This means that enamel using drying oil or another non-aqueous solvent was applied to the surface you are examining. You can putty over such paint without any preliminary preparation, if upon closer examination it is clear that it adheres well to the wall.

This can be checked without much difficulty. You need to take a metal spatula and try to scratch the paint, and then run the flat of the spatula along the part of the wall where the “grooves” were applied. If peeling is noticed, the paint will have to be removed.

Methods for removing oil paint

Paint can be removed mechanically, chemically and thermally. Let's look at them in more detail.

1. Paintwork tends to soften when heated, so one of the effective ways to remove it is thermal. To do this, you need to heat the paint using construction hair dryer, and then remove it with a spatula.

2. Enamel can also be affected chemically. Using special compounds with which it would be possible to soften the enamel layer so much that it would easily move with the movements of a spatula. It should be noted that such compositions have a high level of toxicity, so they are recommended for use in rooms that can be easily ventilated.

3. The most labor-intensive and dusty method is mechanical. The paint is removed using a sanding machine or a regular spatula. Therefore, if paint is applied only in some places, you can clean exactly those segments, and try to carefully treat the rest of the surface with a primer.

Prime the surface

In order for the surface to be well prepared for “meetings” with putty, it must be treated with a primer that contains small particles. With their help, the putty will better adhere to the base. The role of such particles is usually played by quartz sand. The liquid primer base is able to penetrate the paint well.

Among such primers, Concrete Contact stands out. It is used to treat smooth surfaces. For example, such a primer is suitable for tiles. After applying the primer, the smooth surface will become rough, and this will increase the putty's chances of strength.

There are other ways you can roughen up a wall. For example, notches similar to a mesh are made on the surface of the paint with any sharp object, or the paint is cleaned using coarse-grained sandpaper which is operated manually. You can also take a drill with an attachment. This approach is labor-intensive, but can help save on primer.

You can also find on sale other types of soil for such treatment, similar to “concrete contact”. So if, for example, you couldn’t find “concrete contact” for sale, then don’t be upset, not everything is lost, and this doesn’t mean that you will now have to sand the old paint with a grinder, or cut notches into the paint with a hammer or a construction hatchet. Just explain your problem to the sales consultant, and he will definitely help you solve it quickly.

We putty the surface

The puttying process can be divided into two stages. The first step is to check the surface for cracks. If such appear, they should be embroidered with a spatula, removing the peeling paint (as well as the plaster underneath) to a solid base. As a result of such actions, large unevenness can often result. They should be leveled with putty, gradually applying several layers.
During the second stage, the entire wall panel is directly leveled. Using a wide spatula, apply the putty in several layers, each of them should not be thicker than a few millimeters.

In principle, this is almost everything you need to know when putting putty on wall paint. The main thing here is to correctly understand how to do everything correctly, and, of course, do not be lazy to try, or, as they say, experiment with your strengths. If you follow the technology of preparing the surface and applying putty, you will certainly achieve excellent results.

The process of removing the old coating scares off quite a few people, therefore, is it possible to apply putty to paint? This is an exciting question and quite natural for people who carry out repairs on their own, with their own hands. In particular, if these people are not entirely experienced repairmen.

The price of the issue, as a rule, is saved time and nerves, since dismantling previous coatings is one of the most labor-intensive actions associated with the interior decoration of walls or ceilings. And with regards to the exterior, there is not always the opportunity or desire to cover a room with materials that do not require the removal of old coatings. So the issue of removing paint also becomes very relevant in this case.

Is it possible to apply putty over paint?, it is necessary to decide, as a rule, only after clear clarification of what exactly the surface being repaired was painted with. The second point that influences the decision is what condition the painted wall is in, what is the degree of wear of the previous coating.

We will try to tell you what criteria exist to determine the possibility of puttying paint, what nuances may arise in connection with certain chosen methods. We hope that these tips will help you make the right decision so that the new coating you choose will last as long as possible afterwards.

Studying the type of paint

For putty, only water-based emulsion is strictly prohibited. This is due to its hygroscopicity: old paint will draw water from the putty composition, thus violating the integrity of the composition and gradually destroying it.

As a result the plaster will either not stick at all (which can be detected immediately and appropriate measures taken), or will fall off the wall in the very near future (which is the worst possible scenario: you have made considerable efforts finishing the surfaces, but after a short period of time they again require repair and additional investments).

It is clear that a person does not always remember or know what the walls are painted with.
Is it possible to putty over paint, and if so, how?

Firstly, they could have been painted by the previous owners of the apartment, from whom you no longer ask about the type of paint. Secondly, no one keeps empty cans as souvenirs, and 5 years after the previous repair, its details fly out of your head. Therefore, first a simple check is done to determine the type of paint.
A small area of the painted wall is wetted with warm water. You can simply spray it, or wipe it with a sponge.
5 minutes are allotted to wait, and the wet surface is inspected.

If foam appears from the water, you have a water-based emulsion, and it will have to be removed. This shouldn't be too scary: it washes off quite easily. After soaking the wall, the softened coating is simply removed with a spatula. But remember one thing: if such a coating is discovered, it must be dismantled. Then you just have to wait until the surface dries, and you can start applying the putty itself.

Studying the wall

If during the test the paint does not begin to bubble, it means that it is based on drying oil or other compounds insoluble in water. In this case, the condition of the paint is carefully examined. It will have to be removed in the following cases:

exfoliation. If the coating begins to peel off, the putty will not stick to it. You may not have to scrape the paint off the entire wall: if the tatters are fragmentary, it is enough to clean only these areas;
swelling. Places where the paint has bubbled up are broken with a hammer and chisel and the coating is removed. If there are too many such deformations, you should think about completely removing the paint;
high humidity. Here you will have to remove the paint over the entire surface in any case. A damp wall will not hold an additional layer of putty: it will fall off in pieces along with the old coating. Moreover, mold may begin to develop under the putty. In such a situation, you will have to not only dismantle the coating to the very base, but also treat the slab with antiseptic compounds.

If there is so much global problems you will have to look for a way to completely remove the paint. If no serious external defects are found, you need to check how firmly the paint adheres to the wall. To do this, just run the corner of the spatula across the surface to create a scratch, and try to pick up the coating with the flat side. If it does not begin to crumble, you can safely putty over the paint.

Getting ready for puttying

To immediately take up a spatula is to transfer building materials in vain. Some preparations should still precede the putty work.

Small peelings and defects are sanded and cleaned. If cracks are found, they are expanded and cleaned until concrete base, after which they are sealed. Further manipulations are postponed until the puttyed defects have dried. If the recesses are large in area, a plaster mesh is used for puttying.
The wall can be washed with any dish soap. During use, dust and dirt have settled on it. This stage is especially important for the kitchen, where grease from cooking food settles on surfaces.
To increase the degree of adhesion, the roughness of the wall increases. You can achieve results in different ways. First, sand the paint with rough sandpaper. Secondly, making cross-shaped notches over the entire surface is the favorite and most reliable way, used by professional plasterers.
Next, the surface is primed.
You need to choose compounds specifically designed for paint putty. Particularly good results are obtained with a quartz primer containing small particles and having deep penetration. However, it is quite expensive, so you may have to look for more affordable options.
The primer is repeated twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Oil paint raises some doubts. It has very poor adhesion to all materials, and is also the most difficult to remove from surfaces. To strengthen its adhesion to the putty, the notches are made deeper and more frequent, and before priming the wall is treated with “Concrete Contact”.

Eventually, in a certain number of cases the question of whether putty can be applied to paint may receive a positive answer. After a thorough examination and with some preparation, this is quite acceptable. But professional repairmen still insist on complete dismantling: everything Finishing work give better results on cleaned surfaces.

Putty on paint

Often, when renovating existing premises, it becomes necessary to putty the surfaces of walls and ceilings. If the previously applied coating adheres well, it does not have to be removed. Knowing how the surfaces were previously coated makes it easier to select a new compatible paint to avoid swelling and delamination of previous layers. High-quality paint putty smoothes surface defects without removing the old composition over the entire surface of the walls.

When puttying dry rooms, remove old peeling paint. To remove stains of grease and dirt, wash the walls with an alkaline solution. It could be a soap composition. For better adhesion of the putty, the paint is sanded and dust is removed. Then the surface is primed. By treating partially puttied walls with a primer, we achieve uniform porosity of various surfaces and better adhesion of finishing paint. In damp rooms, moisture-resistant paint and putty are used.

After stripping the old paint, leveling the base and cracks with putty, apply a primer. There is a sufficient selection of primers for old paint on the construction market. They are intended for treating surfaces (stone, brick, plaster, concrete) previously painted with oil, NC, PF and similar paints and varnishes. The primer creates a layer on the surface of a previously applied coating that improves the adhesion of newly coated materials. After applying putty on the paint in accordance with the technology, it is possible further work for surface finishing: wallpapering, subsequent painting, laying tiles and other decoration.

After priming it becomes possible high-quality coating water-dispersion paints on previously painted surfaces. The primer does not require preliminary finishing; after drying it creates a matte, even base.

Is it possible to putty over paint? Will the putty stick to the paint?

Dear specialists and victims of a similar problem, save us!!! It all started on that ill-fated day when I started renovations.

The ceiling, which had been cleared down to concrete, was primed and painted with water-based paint twice at intervals; the paint applied poorly (stripes). There were no visible irregularities (scratches) on the ceiling itself. I tried to paint over it water-based paint acrylic semi-matte. The paint has set tightly, but the surface has become glossy and all the roughness is “clear in the palm of your hand.” I can’t imagine what can be done about this now?! It’s almost impossible to clean... I wanted to cover it with PVC tiles or non-woven ceiling wallpaper or, maybe, prime, putty and paint with acrylic matte paint, but I read “horror stories” about this on the Internet and was completely confused...

Maybe someone can tell me what to do? Thank you in advance!

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Is it possible to putty over oil paint?

Many people ask this question before renovating. Since once upon a time, most apartments had walls painted with paint. This way the walls became resistant to moisture and did not get dirty. It was called panels, and at the time it was pretty good. But times have changed along with the materials for wall finishing, and before renovating everyone asks the question, is it possible to putty over paint? Now I will try to answer this question for you.

Is it possible or not?

You cannot immediately putty on enamel paint without preparing the surface. This is due to the fact that it is smooth and putty will not stick well to it. Even if you prime the walls with a deep penetrating primer, it won't do anything for you.

There are two ways out of this situation. One of them is the complete removal of paint from the wall surface. And the second thing is to properly prepare the surface for puttying the walls. And we’ll look at these two approaches to paint putty further.

How to remove paint from a wall.

There are several ways to remove paint from walls: chemical, thermal and mechanical removal. Below I will tell you about each in detail.

The chemical method involves applying liquid to the wall with a roller or brush. And after a while you can scrape off the paint from the surface with a spatula or a special scraper. I would like to note that this method is quite toxic. Therefore, when working with chemicals, you must adhere to safety rules.

During chemical removal there is quite a bit of air in the air. bad smell. Even a few days after work I can hear it. Therefore, it is not recommended for use in premises where people constantly live. On top of that, chemistry is expensive.

The most effective way Removing paint from walls is thermal. To remove it, use a special hairdryer, which heats the paint and blows it off. This paint is then removed with a spatula or scraper. But this also has its drawbacks. After such removal, the wall is still smooth. And you still need to sand it with sanding paper.

I always use mechanical removal. If the wall is concrete, this is in panel houses or monolithic, you can remove the paint with a grinder with a concrete grinding wheel attachment. With its help you can quickly remove paint from walls. But there will be a lot of gunpowder.

If the walls are plastered, you can knock off the paint along with top layer plaster with an axe. This is a pretty simple method, but it works.

Is it possible to putty over paint? Let’s putty correctly

True, it will take a lot of time.

Puttying walls without removing oil paint

You can putty walls without removing paint using two methods. First, I’ll tell you about the simplest and most reliable.

The first method is to make notches on the walls with an ax. Notches need to be made often. If they are 5 cm apart from each other, this will do nothing. After the notches, prime the surface with a deeply penetrating primer. Next we putty, but before that you need to stretch a painting mesh (fiberglass mesh) onto the walls. Stretch the painting mesh not with starting putty, but with drywall adhesive. It has better adhesion to smooth surfaces. This is also a reliable and proven method.

There is another proven method. This is the application of quartz primer or concrete contact to the walls before puttying. This is a primer containing quartz sand. Thanks to the sand, we will have good adhesion of the putty to the surface. In this case, I also recommend using drywall adhesive as the first layer of putty. But before priming, you need to make sure that the base is secure. There may be some oil paint leaking somewhere, check that.

I have personally experienced all these methods and want to advise you something. If you need to putty on walls where there is oil paint, then first try to remove it mechanically. Try it with an axe; if it doesn’t work and you have an angle grinder, buy a wheel for grinding concrete. It's a little expensive, but cheaper than a hair dryer. If you don’t have an angle grinder, buy a hair dryer.
But when you have a limited budget and don’t want to buy a tool, prime the walls with quartz primer and putty as I described above.

Painting putty walls

Basically, the painting technology repeats that described on the previous page, but with some features. Before painting, the walls must be very well leveled - the paint will show all the defects of the walls. For not very smooth surfaces, it is better to use matte paints and long-pile roller coats. This roller gives a coarse-grained, rough paint structure, which, in combination with a matte color, makes wall unevenness less noticeable. An absolutely flat surface can be painted with glossy paints and velor rollers - you will get a beautiful glossy wall paint. By combining different roller coats (with long, medium or short pile) and different degrees of paint gloss, they achieve different quality of paint, which partially hides wall defects or, on the contrary, emphasizes its evenness.

The base, cleared of old paint or a new base, is checked for its ability to be painted (Fig. 93). The bearing capacity of the base can be checked with a block soft wood, for example, from Christmas tree or pine. If traces of wood shavings remain on the base, then it is suitable for painting. The base also has enough load-bearing capacity for painting as long as it doesn't crumble when you run your fingernail across it. All substrates must be clean, dry, and free of dust. It is recommended to clean the surface first with a dry brush and then with a brush soaked in water.

Run your hand along the wall. If the base wears easily, gets dusty, or if your hand becomes stained White color, which means it is chalky.

It is necessary to check the wall surface for the presence of lime paint.

In what cases, when, how and is it possible to apply putty to paint?

Apply a small amount of vinegar to the wall. If bubbles form, this indicates the presence of limescale, which must be completely removed with a brush. All other walls can be painted after applying primer.

Before painting, the wall surface must be completely plastered with one putty mixture. Spots that differ in color due to the use of different types of putties may not be “covered” even with well-covering paint even after 5–6 paintings. Spotted color may also appear as a result of uneven puttying. The pits will be visible in oblique rays of light. In addition, in the pits the layer of paint may turn out to be thicker than on the surface of the wall, and then a spot of a more saturated color is formed here; such spots are visible not only in oblique, but also in direct rays of light.

1. Lighting installation.

To achieve high quality painting, you need to be able to clearly see what you are doing. An energy-saving white lamp with a power of 15 W is used. Unlike incandescent lamps, it is safer and does not heat up the socket. The lamp, preferably with a lampshade, is attached to a temporary wooden tripod, placed near the wall, and moved as needed. Oblique lighting, almost parallel to the wall, will show all the unevenness of the base; it will not be too late to putty them, and when priming and painting with this lighting, unpainted areas will be visible.

2. Preparing the wall surface for painting.

After the lighting has been set, defects have been identified and uneven surfaces have been puttyed, allow 12 to 24 hours for the newly applied putty to dry. Then the entire surface of the wall (or only the puttyed areas, if sanding was carried out earlier) is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper (“zero”). The skin is attached to a small piece of flat board with rolled edges or to special tool and sequentially, meter by meter, they sand the wall. Then the wall needs to be dusted - vacuumed through the hair brush of a vacuum cleaner or at least swept with a clean broom. This phase is often skipped, but in vain, the paint (or primer) does not adhere well to the dusty surface. Use a damp sponge to test the wall's absorbency. If water is absorbed, the wall surface must be primed.

3. Priming.

The primer you need to use is the primer recommended by the paint manufacturer; its name is written on the paint can. If the manufacturer allows priming with the same paint as painting, then the paint should be diluted exactly in the proportion that is recommended - add exactly as much water to the paint as indicated on the can, no more and no less.

Pour the paint (primer) into a clean bucket. Add water (if recommended) and mix with a mixer. Use a round brush or a medium flange brush to paint the perimeter of the wall. Paint around the heating pipes with a brush. In general, you need to prime all the places with a brush that cannot be reached with a roller. After which the wall is primed with a roller.

When triple painting (primer and two coats of paint), start from any of the window-side corners and work your way to the adjacent wall. The wall is primed with strips 700–1000 mm wide. Having primed the first strip from the corner, start another. The priming of the wall, as well as subsequent painting, should be carried out quickly, without interruptions - 10–15 minutes and the wall is ready. When painting, the “wet edge” rule must be observed, that is, the next strip must overlap the previous one over the wet layer (paint that has not yet dried). The overlap width is approximately 100 mm. If you lack skill, it is better to prime (and paint) two people together. One works with a brush along the perimeter of the walls, the other immediately rolls up the surface of the wall with a roller.

Slowness in work leads to the beginning of polymerization (setting) of the paint on the wall, then when the second strip overlaps, the roller either “lifts” (tears off from the base) the previous layer, or lays on top and the paint film thickens - after drying, dark spots will appear. It's like two sheets of white paper different thicknesses, individually both are white and the same color, but when you put them together, one is darker than the other. Avoid interruptions in work, but there is no need to rush either.

If you primed with diluted paint, wring out the brushes and roller after work, wrap them in a damp rag and tie them in two cellophane package. If you used a commercial primer, wash your brushes and roller coat first.

4. Painting the wall.

Follow the recommendations on the can and give the primer the drying time recommended by the manufacturer. Each new layer of paint should be applied only after the previous layer has completely dried. During long breaks in work, the wall must be free of dust. It is usually best to prime the wall in the evening so you can apply the paint in the morning. For a good opaque paint, two layers of paint (primer + paint) are enough; for cheaper paint, three layers are done (primer + two layers of paint).

Basically, the technology for painting walls is no different from painting wallpaper (Fig. 116). Except that painting wallpaper can be done without additional lighting, and painting walls using putty is best done with lighting. There is one very important point. The painter looks at the wall directly in front of him, along the lines of painting, he does not notice weakly painted and, most importantly, missed places on the surface of the wall, he does not see the place where he “walked” with a roller once, and where several. For him, the surface has acquired a uniform wet shade and it seems that everything is painted the same way. While the wall is wet, everything looks fine, but after drying, spots will appear. This is where an energy-saving lamp mounted on a tripod near the wall will help. The lamp must be installed on the side of the paint strip and then unpainted areas become visible. Experienced painters step aside from time to time and look at the painted strip of the wall from the side, identifying unpainted areas.

The third layer (if any) is applied only after the second layer has dried. After painting each layer, strain the paint remaining in the tray through a nylon cloth (women's tights) and pour it back into the jar. Close the jar tightly. To store paint for a long time, turn the jar upside down for a few seconds, then the paint itself will seal any leaks in the lid.

5. If spots appear on the wall after the paint layer has dried, then under no circumstances try to paint over them with thick paint - it will not help. Resign yourself and leave it as is, or try adding another layer of thinner paint over the entire surface of the wall. If stains remain after this, all further painting work is useless and only leads to waste of material. The work needs to be redone. You can try to correct the defect by sanding the entire wall with fine sandpaper on a block or grater. Just be sure to do it all over, otherwise after re-painting the stains will appear again. If you remove stains after the first or second coat of paint, the result will be better. And if you overlooked it and left many layers, then simply sanding the wall will not help - you will have to putty and sand the wall again, and paint it, of course.

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot for yourself useful information. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper and painting. The matter is certainly not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand as much as possible the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula or how to move it in any special way; you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If any question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material that is used to smooth out minor defects and create a uniform surface structure. Mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty the walls?

The walls are puttied in order to remove and level out minor surface defects and improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to its leveling qualities, the putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and can be easily processed or sanded.

Putty or putty, which is correct?

Especially for those who argue over correct spelling. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings, so both options are correct. But there is one thing, but... Most construction literature and official information sources use the option (putty). It’s up to you to decide which option is more convenient for use, but still, it’s more fair to say – putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And so how to do it right choice at the time of buying. First, let's figure out what types there are. Let us roughly divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

Starting
Finishing
Facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to start from two factors:

What kind of surface is there
What kind of finish will there be at the finish?

All possible options Let's look at it below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink much when drying. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. It covers plastered surfaces well, and is well suited for preparing under wallpaper or fiberglass (cobwebs).

Finishing putty

Designed for final leveling of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, so it does not have coarse grains. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is used mainly on final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Well suited for fiberglass mesh reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

To this type we include all other varieties that will be useful to us in repairs. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall seams, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. It contains cement, so it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is used in damp rooms, loggias, basements and on facades. Frost-resistant when dried and has increased strength.

Which putty to choose

So, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Selecting putty based on composition

Here I will tell you what putties come in composition and which of the above mentioned types I can classify them as. At the same time, I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all sorts of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation under wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishing.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a multifaceted material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. Acrylic putties are also widely used in wood processing of automobile bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the term “acrylic putty” for a specific application. In this case, it can be either the start or the finish. Very often used in the production of wood putty.

Latex putty

Think about it, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for finishing walls cannot be rubber; it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in damp rooms, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically these are all finishing putties, except gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer.

Dry putty for walls

This is a starting material, mainly gypsum and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation under wallpaper, cobwebs and decorative materials.

Which putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If there is plaster on the wall - 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, prime, if necessary, glue cobwebs or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished finished putty, grind and you're done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. This is about quality painting. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can fill 3 layers with starting putty, grind and paint.

Which putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use starting putty, which comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic are usually enough. starting putty. I can recommend acryl-putz, prospectors, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material almost always bad. We'll talk about how to putty walls under wallpaper a little later.

Start-finish putty

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparing wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. This mixture is not suitable as a finishing putty for spider webs, and I also do not recommend it for finishing the painting of ceilings and slopes. The finishing putty should be in finished form in polymer-based buckets, not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

For a long time working in the finishing industry, I tried to work with different brands. I used them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to use Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (hardens a lot) Often finishing putty called “ready-made wall putty”

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the whole article, who just need to know the number of layers and what putty to buy:

Type of preparation	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers starting
for painting	2 layers starting, web, 3 layers finishing
for decorative coating rough	2 layers of starter, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starter
finely dispersed for decorative coating	2 layers starting, reinforcement, 3 layers finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL for wallpaper	finishing seams, finishing seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of façade (if you really need to putty and it’s damp on the balcony)
basement	if it's very damp façade putty 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use conventional technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture-resistant paint.

We'll talk about this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls... First, let's figure out what kind of surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Plasterboard walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen and uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

The consumption mainly depends on the characteristics of the wall (condition, porosity), and the experience of the “specialist” also plays an important role.

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on a cobweb will be significantly more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You won’t be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average values, multiply by the number of layers (mm thickness) and multiply by the square footage of the walls. For example, if the total area of the walls of a room is 40 m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then take the indicator 1 kg, multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6 mm = 1.8 mm) and multiply by 40 m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starting putty for a 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints “Fugenfüller” and “Uniflot”

I recommend sealing the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams (cut) with uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, so we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for factory seams, the consumption of “fugenfüller” is approximately 1 kg per 4 m2 of installed drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty the walls? The main things we need from the tool:

Spatula 10 cm
Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, smoother.
Mixer, whisk
Roller and brush for primer
Grinding grater, sandpaper
Masking tape, knife, blades
Water container
Lighting, spotlight
Vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, smoothers, handles for rollers must be non-rusting. This way they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty spots there won't be any on the walls

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Wall preparation is very important stage, it will determine how well subsequent finishing materials will hold up. The surface must be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, and anything that does not adhere well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the priming of the surface, the wall should be well soaked with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, or even better, continue working the next day. The primer must not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove old putty because it doesn’t stick well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty holds well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It’s good to write it down and try to remove it with a spatula again.

If the putty is well primed and is not removed or soaked, then there are only two options.

Knock down with a hammer until the plaster is finished (you will need to plaster the surface later)
The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep-penetrating primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with primer (sandy soil)

Putty of various surfaces for different finishes

Puttying various surfaces is essentially the same process, the only difference is in the preparation and the number of layers. I’ll talk about the filling technique itself in another chapter, but in this one we’ll talk about preparation and the number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk more about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “do-it-yourself wall putty ( step-by-step instruction)". We start by preparing the drywall. Preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage we will need putty special application(this is mainly the application of sealing gypsum board seams) To seal factory gypsum board seams we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams we use knauf uniflot.

Primer of drywall before puttying

Apply the primer evenly to the wall using a roller, be sure to apply it evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. Waiting for it to dry completely!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue serpyanka tape onto the factory seams, coat the factory seams with fugen knauf, and not the factory seams with uniflot knauf. If we use paper tape, then first coat the seams with putty, then glue the tape and use a spatula to push it deep into the layer. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard at the edges should be cut at 45 degrees on each side.

Read on the packaging how to properly knead fugenfüller. Please note that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We wait for the sealed seams to dry completely, clean 35 cm of excess and small sagging with a spatula. Mix the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We wait for it to dry completely, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then we prime the entire wall again.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to fill the seams with starting putty after fugen has dried). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire gypsum board wall with ready-made finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband paste or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with 140-180P abrasive, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-prime it.

Plasterboard putty for painting

The seams are sealed using the above method. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use cobwebs, glue them with Bostik glue (I wrote about this in the article about gluing cobwebs). Then we putty the cobwebs into three layers and sand them with 180-240R sandpaper. Instead of cobwebs, you can glue a painting mesh with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but want to save money, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will work out a little better if you putty on 2 more layers with finishing putty and clean it with 180 rubles.

Putty walls for painting

The technology itself for puttingtying walls for painting is no different from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if the painting is high-quality), and the number of sandpaper when sanding the putty are different.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

Preparation, priming
2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
Dust off, prime
Fiberglass (cobweb) or reinforcing mesh is glued (glued to the finishing putty)
Then 2-3 layers of finishing putty
Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
Remove dust, vacuum, prime (white primer)

Fiberglass putty before painting

Many people wonder whether it is possible to putty fiberglass? Essentially, these are glass wallpapers and many people simply paint them, but I’ll tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that it is not only possible to putty on cobwebs, but also necessary!

Here only ready-made wall putty (finish) will be used. We putty the first layer of putty “to tear it off”, smooth the putty into all the pores of the web in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good lighting, making sure that there are no gaps. We try not to move the spatula for too long; if the web is of poor quality, it will get wet and drag on the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied in a thin, neat layer.

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper

Puttying walls under wallpaper is the easiest preparation, in my opinion. No reinforcement is required if the wallpaper is thick; finishing putty is not even required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to follow the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

Clean and dust the wall
Large holes and cracks are sealed separately
The first layer is applied
After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula to remove excess debris.
Apply 2 layers
Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
Removes dust
Prime with white primer and wait for it to dry completely.

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty for wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers; it is also advisable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

Puttying concrete walls without plaster is acceptable in panel houses with relatively smooth walls; in other cases, plastering of the surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove all excess from the wall, and prime it. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare it for the wallpaper.

Putty on penoplex (how to putty on penoplex)

I don’t know what kind of situation a person must have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but we often receive such questions in the mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and has no idea how penoplex is finished. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all penoplex putty... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with polystyrene foam, timbered and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover all the holes and dowel-nail heads with insulation glue. Gluing facade mesh, we rub everything with plaster. After complete drying, prime. Now the walls can be filled with cement façade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster(for example, 1.5mm pebble)

The façade putty must be rubbed down immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty on plastered walls

The plastered wall needs to be thoroughly cleaned with a 35cm spatula, removing all sagging and everything that crumbles. Then you should prime the entire wall well and wait until it dries completely. If we are preparing it for wallpaper, then we apply 3 layers of starting putty. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the unevenness of the plaster, often this first layer is called “scraping putty.” Then follow 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and prime (if under wallpaper). If it is for painting, then we prepare the wall further; I will describe it in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty over paint?

It is not advisable to putty on paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then you first need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait until it dries completely. Now it is permissible to fill it with several layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint; it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you don’t want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the distortions are not very large and the quality of the wallpaper is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and sand with coarse sandpaper 80R. We use only starting putty.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. Part façade putty cement is included, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality, expensive material (for example, Caparol). Cheap - when rubbed with sandpaper, it becomes stained and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to decorate a loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step-by-step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about preparation different surfaces and so on. In subsequent chapters, we’ll look at the putty technology itself in a little more detail and talk again about preparation for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to apply putty correctly.

We carry out work in dry rooms with temperatures from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty”; here I will repeat myself a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35cm spatula (preferably an old one). After such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent putty. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceiling.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be coarse, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated deep impregnation primer is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to saturate all the corners and junctions of the wall. Then, using a roller, apply primer to all surfaces that require puttying. The walls are primed for putty evenly. We wait for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to thin the putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and add 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or a whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If necessary, add water or putty to achieve the desired thickness. If you take the putty on a 10cm spatula and turn it over, it should not flow down. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but rather elastic. After the first stirring, wait 3-4 minutes and stir again. After which the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you need to putty with a ready-made finishing putty, I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10 liter bucket and mixing with a mixer. The putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply.

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty are applied in essentially the same way, the only difference is in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply the putty in an even layer on a 35cm spatula and, starting from the corner, begin to apply the putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “by scraping” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Don’t forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we clean the wall again with a spatula to remove particles of excess putty, sand from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply a second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply approximately a 0.5 mm layer; in places of unevenness, the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We must putty with good lighting, preferably under a spotlight or light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally in a fan-like manner, smoothing with arc-shaped movements.

Pay attention to the back of the spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash your instrument frequently to prevent it from becoming completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty (described above). We try to apply a thinner layer. Be sure to putty the walls so that there is good lateral illumination. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level it with layers of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step; you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and that dark empty cracks do not show through.

Internal corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, wait for it to dry completely, remove excess putty particles from the corner with a spatula, then putty the adjacent wall.

Outside corner

IN modern renovations, perforated corners have long been used for painting works aluminum ones are used. They are leveled; after drying, the corner should be pulled off on both sides with putty. (I recommend pulling the fugen knauf, it gives a little shrinkage)

Puttying drywall corners

The inner corner of the gypsum board is glued with sickle tape or special paper tape and pulled back with “uniflot” or “fugen” putty. If you use sickle tape, then thoroughly press the putty into the seams of the drywall. If the tape is paper, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, the excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also placed on the “fugenfüller” and pulled out on both sides. (in some cases the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during putty usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied in 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as painting mesh and cobwebs protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the web creates a uniform surface and smoothes out minor irregularities.

Cobweb (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described detailed technology gluing the web, so I’ll describe it briefly here.

2-3 layers of starting putty, sanded with 80P sandpaper\
Prime and wait for it to dry completely
Apply glue with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik or Oskar)
Fiberglass is applied and smoothed with a spatula
Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
Smooth it out with a 35cm spatula, as if we were putting it with glue.
Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the joints

Painting mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks and is great for preparing for painting or decorative finishes.

1-2 layers of starting putty (wait for complete drying
Cleaning the wall with a spatula
Apply the mesh and smooth the top with finishing putty
Excess is trimmed with a paint knife
After which 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied

How long does it take for putty to dry on walls?

The putty dries in about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day and then start sanding. It is not recommended to wait several days; some brands of putty harden greatly.

Sanding walls after puttying

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will talk about now.
Hand sanding

In manual sanding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for sanding walls after puttying; I recommend purchasing it from white plastic because black ones leave streaks in the corners when sanded. It is better to use sandpaper that is not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying occurs exclusively in circular movements and under the illumination of a spotlight!

If we use a household vacuum cleaner, there is a possibility of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. And we vacuum up the remaining dust.

Mesh for grouting putty

Personally, I don’t use mesh; the ones sold in my region are of poor quality and scratch the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that are connected to a vacuum cleaner. You only need to connect industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is excellent for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. It is better to grind it by hand before painting. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But it will be necessary Sander(preferably a special one for grinding walls), a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.

Today we will learn how to putty the walls in an apartment with our own hands. We will analyze in detail the issue of wall preparation, selection of putty, its proper preparation, the tools used in the work and the process itself. The article will be useful for both beginners in repair and those who already have some experience.

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper. Preparing the walls

The walls are put in order so that they are even, and then wallpaper can be hung on them. But the fact is that their initial condition may be so bad that it may be premature to think about how to putty the walls, since first you need to repair deep holes in them, then plaster them, and only then proceed directly to putty. Therefore, I highly recommend that you first read my article, which clearly presents a plan for working with walls, and putty is just one of the stages.

Puttying of walls is carried out in 3 cases:

After removing old wallpaper, when the walls are relatively smooth and it is not important for you to level (plaster) them.
After plastering the walls, when they are strictly vertical and ready for further processing.
When in some places you need to repair small chips on the wall.

Let's go in order.

Why do you need to putty the walls at all, you ask? Well, I took off the old wallpaper and put up new ones. Or I lined the walls with plaster and also hung wallpaper on them.

The fact is that the walls, in any of the above cases, are quite rough, and the wallpaper on them will lie worse than if we had previously puttyed the wall. Wall putty is a fine leveling with millimeter precision. The good thing about putty is that, on the one hand, it is firmly attached to concrete or plaster, and on the other hand, new wallpaper fits perfectly on it.

Which putty is better to putty walls under wallpaper?

First of all, you need to decide on the type of putty you will work with. There are a lot of them in stores, and it is especially difficult for a beginner to navigate such a countless number of options offered. To make it easier for you, I will talk about one of the popular materials from Weber Vetonit, which I myself constantly use:

Let's make the following estimate. The walls of your house are not the same. Some are load-bearing thick walls facing the street. In cold weather, such walls can freeze very much. And there are interior walls that live at a relatively constant temperature. For these cases, Weber Vetonit has the following options:

Weber Vetonit VH - when hardened, this putty is resistant to low temperatures.
Weber Vetonit KR is just a putty for dry rooms.

How to determine the required volume of putty

After determining the type of putty, we need to calculate how much we need to take? Usually, on the back of putty packages everything is described in great detail. It would be better to go to the store and read this information directly on the bag. The fact is that all materials are different and it will be difficult to say the exact quantity, but an approximate quantity is possible!

How many times to putty the walls under the wallpaper

It is very important to evaluate how much you have prepared the wall before applying putty. If after plastering the wall is perfectly smooth, then of course one layer is enough. If you haven’t plastered the wall, but are trying to remove unevenness and small differences on the wall using putty, then the consumption of material will be completely different. Typically, the thickness of the putty ranges from 1 to 3 mm, in some places up to 5 mm - no more. Therefore, in the worst case, if you are going to smooth out unevenness up to 1 cm, then in any case you will need to lay the material in 2 layers.

For example, I just had such a case without plaster, when on interior wall 3.5 meters by 2.5 meters, with total area 8.75 meters it took me 15 kg of Weber Vetonit KR putty.

How to putty walls for painting

If you plan not to glue wallpaper, but to paint the walls, then in this case they should be literally polished. In this case, first, with regular putty, unevenness and roughness that may exist after plastering are removed. Then, when the first layer has dried, the wall needs to be sanded, vacuumed, primed and a second layer of finishing putty applied in a very thin layer. The work turns out to be quite complicated in terms of labor costs, but perfectly smooth walls are worth it.

Considering the above, you just need to measure the area of the walls that are to be puttied, estimate the thickness of the layer of putty that you are going to lay, decide whether it will be one layer or two and, based on the material consumption indicated on the packaging, calculate how much putty you need to buy.

When making repairs, you need to remember an important thing: . Sometimes, especially if you live in an apartment in which you are renovating, see, it is better to purchase building materials in parts.

Where to buy putty

My experience tells me that it is better to buy putty in large construction hypermarkets, such as Petrovich, OBI, etc. Why? Because everything Construction Materials Just like food, it has an expiration date. For example, putty in the form of a dry construction mixture, if the packaging is not opened, may have a shelf life of 12 months, 18 months, etc. from the date of manufacture. Some are dry building mixtures I only have a shelf life of 6 months. Therefore, in large construction hypermarkets the likelihood of purchasing expired materials is much lower than in dubious warehouses for half the price.

Always check the date of manufacture. You cannot work with expired putty - this will ruin all your work.

How to prepare walls for putty. Primer

If you apply putty to concrete wall, then it is better to prime the wall 2 times. If you have just plastered the wall, you can prime it once before applying putty.

In any case, you need to look at the general plan for working with the walls, which I mentioned above.

How to properly dilute putty and putty walls

If we use ready-made putty in a jar to putty the walls, then we open it and immediately get to work.

If we use dry mortar to putty the walls, then we need to prepare a putty solution. To prepare the solution we will need:

Container for preparing the required volume of dry construction mixture.
Steelyard for weighing dry construction mixture.
Capacity for ready solution.
A measuring stick for pouring the required amount of water.
Drill with installed mixer.

IMPORTANT!

Putty is not plaster. You can prepare a lot of it at once, because the prepared mixture can live for about another day. Plastering, if we remember, will take place in 20 minutes. starts to freeze. Therefore, estimate how much solution you are willing to put in over the next 24 hours.

25 kg = 10 liters

6 kg = X liters

X = 6*10/25 = 2.4 liters of water.

Pour into a bucket required quantity dry mixture from a bag.
Pour the required amount of water into the container for preparing the solution.
Pour the dry mixture from the bucket into a container with water to prepare the solution.
Turn on the drill with the mixer installed and begin mixing the dry mixture with water.

You need to stir for about 3 - 5 minutes until the putty gives the appearance of thick sour cream. Then you need to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and stir again (not for long).

The solution is ready. You can use it.

What is the best way to putty the walls? Tools

To putty the walls we will need:

A trowel for applying the finished mortar to the wall.

Spatulas (Large, medium (small)).

Rubber spatula (very small).

And below we will look at the most interesting thing - this is the process of puttying walls.

How to putty walls with your own hands

You need to start putting putty on the wall from one side and move in the opposite direction. The puttying process consists of using a trowel to spread the mortar onto the wall, and then using a spatula to move it left and right, up and down. When spreading the putty on the wall, you need to apply pressure on the spatula. It is necessary to ensure that you do not put an excessive amount of mortar on the wall so that smudges do not form. If you still put more than necessary, disperse this part of the solution along the wall where there is not enough putty applied.

When you run out of solution, prepare a new portion and continue working.

The skill of puttying does not come immediately, it needs to be trained. But I'm sure you will succeed. After applying the putty and dispersing it, literally after a few moments the putty may form smudges in some places. To remove them, you need to run the spatula over this area again.

What is the best spatula to putty on walls? If the area of the wall being processed is large, then it is better to immediately learn how to work with the largest tool. IN hard to reach places use a medium or small spatula.

Why do you need a small one? rubber spatula?

It happens that in the process of work, you accidentally leaned on the wall, poked the sharp end of a spatula into the newly applied and leveled mortar, or just suddenly a hole formed on the wall in a certain place. Then you take a rubber spatula, dip it in putty and carefully apply the latter to the damaged area. In this case, it is not convenient to use a large spatula, because having eliminated a defect in one place, by pressing a little harder, you can create a new problem in another place with the sharp end of the spatula, so it is better to use a rubber spatula.

The rubber spatula is elastic and allows you to apply very small portions of putty onto problem areas, without destroying what you have already done with such difficulty.

IMPORTANT!

Try not to accidentally get dirt and especially hardened pieces of cement or plaster into your putty solution. The fact is that if this happens, then in the process of applying the solution and dispersing it with a spatula along the wall, an accidentally falling pebble under the pressure of the spatula will make a furrow in the wall, which will have to be repaired immediately.

That is why the container into which you pour water to prepare the solution must be clean, and there should be no remains of hardened cement or plaster pieces floating there.

How to putty plasterboard walls

Evaluation of completed work

After puttying, you need to look at the wall and understand how smoothly you managed to apply the solution, because then the process of sanding the wall will follow, which consists of grinding off excess micro-protrusions on the wall, see. If you are a beginner, then it is quite possible that you may not be able to apply the solution evenly the first time. Dont be upset, next wall It will definitely be smoother! However, if you understand that you have putty the wall poorly, that during the sanding process you will definitely have multiple pits and grooves (traces from the sharp corners of the spatula), then it makes sense to apply a second layer of putty after the first layer has dried.

IMPORTANT!

Remember! A new layer of putty can be applied only when the first layer is completely dry. And this will happen approximately in 24 hours.

Of course, wall putty is not limited only to Veber Vetonit. We have a whole company that produces dry building mixtures, where you can read about them, get acquainted with them and gain a little confidence in them if you have never putty before in your life.

This is where the article ends. Today we learned how to putty walls. I’m curious, what difficulties did you experience during your work? What was your main problem: with the spatula or with the incorrectly prepared solution?

January 15, 2018

The walls and ceilings of many apartments require additional leveling and this problem can be easily solved by applying a special leveling compound. But is it possible to putty over paint? Is it worth getting rid of the applied coating or can it serve as a base? To find out the answers to these questions, you need to determine the type of foundation.

How to find out the type of paint?

To find out whether putty can be applied to paint, you should determine its type. This is the first thing you need to do before using the leveling compound. First you need to moisten a sponge in warm water and wash part of the wall. If the paint begins to wear off, forming foam, then it is a water-based emulsion. This type of coating must be removed before puttying, as it absorbs moisture.

Putty for oil paint

If this is not done, then after applying the leveling compound the paint will absorb water, which may cause cracking of the surface.

To get rid of this type of paint, just dampen the wall and leave it in that state for about a quarter of an hour. After this, you need to remove all excess with a spatula. Next, wipe the surface with a damp cloth. Preparation for applying putty ends with thoroughly drying the wall.

If the paint does not react to water in any way, then we can judge that this composition is based on a non-aqueous solvent. This suggests that the surface can be puttyed without preliminary preparation walls. But to make sure that the coating is reliable, it should be scratched with an iron sponge or other tool. If the paint remains intact, it can be left, but the areas where it is peeling need to be thoroughly cleaned. Thus, the answer to the question “can I putty over paint?” may vary and depends on what type of coating the wall has.

Oil Paint Removal Process

Before puttingty on the paint, it is necessary to remove its flaking parts. This is done in several ways: chemical, thermal and physical. To understand the principle of operation, it is necessary to consider each of them separately:

Surface primer

To apply putty to paint, the wall should be treated with a special compound that contains small particles and promotes better adhesion. Many primers are designed to be applied to smooth surface, so they can be used in almost any situation.

There are other ways to create roughness on a wall. An example is the use of coarse sandpaper. If you carry out cleaning with it, then as a result even smooth wall will be cleared of the coating and will become rough enough for applying putty. This method is more labor-intensive, but allows you to save money since you do not need to purchase a primer.

Putty process

Applying putty to paint can be divided into 2 stages:

It is important to remember that when mixing the puttying solution, you should avoid the appearance of lumps in it, which can spoil not only appearance walls, but also cause the material to peel off. It is worth paying attention to the cleanliness of the equipment used. If the mixer used to create the mixture is dirty, it will not be easy to obtain a homogeneous mass.

In order for the mixture for leveling the walls to be homogeneous, it must be kneaded in several stages, which involve keeping the mixture mixed every 5 minutes after using the mixer. By performing this operation several times, you can achieve an ideal result.

If the described rules are followed, then the putty will happen quickly and without unnecessary problems.

Advantages of oil putty:

durability if applied correctly;
plastic;
relatively quick drying after surface treatment;
not too high cost.

This type of putty is made from a mixture of drying oil, limestone, water and casein glue by boiling. This is a flammable and explosive substance. Some experts call this material environmentally friendly, but it contains drying oil, the quality of which is difficult to verify.

Among the disadvantages of oil putty are the following:

It does not combine well with coatings that do not contain drying oil or oil paint;
Oil putty is not resistant to mechanical stress, so it is not recommended for use on façade work.

It is best to use this type of putty for treating ceilings and interior walls. It perfectly seals minor damage to the surface: chips, cracks, small depressions. It makes sense to use this material to eliminate minor external defects. And thanks to the fast technology of mechanized application, oil putty highly in demand.

It is used to prepare wooden, concrete or stone surfaces for painting.

Secrets of applying oil putty

Before applying oil putty, you should thoroughly clean the surface and, if necessary, plaster it. If the surface is fairly smooth, it should nevertheless be sanded and then primed to improve the adhesion of the material to the wall or ceiling.

There is no need to dilute the oil putty: it is a ready-made material. Before use, stir it thoroughly.

Apply the putty using a spatula in a thin layer (up to 2 mm). If it is necessary to apply a second layer of putty, you must wait a day until the first one dries.

After the putty has dried, it is sanded with sandpaper, achieving maximum smoothness of the surface.

The correct primer for walls for painting and putty

Typically, sanding can be carried out 8 hours after puttying the surface.

If all application conditions are met, after drying the oil putty forms a fairly strong, durable layer on top of which oil paint can be applied. And if it was used before mechanized plaster, then the result will be excellent.

Why do you need a floor screed in a new home?

Strange as it may seem, it is best to start repair work when buying an apartment in a new building by installing a floor screed. Why this stage of improvement of your new home will not be superfluous will be discussed in the article.

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Puttying drywall joints

There are many options for finishing the drywall surface. You can stick wallpaper on it, paint it or apply decorative plaster.

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Studying the type of paint

It is clear that a person does not always remember or know what the walls are painted with. Firstly, they could have been painted by the previous owners of the apartment, from whom you no longer ask about the type of paint. Secondly, no one keeps empty cans as souvenirs, and 5 years after the previous repair, its details fly out of your head. Therefore, first a simple check is done to determine the type of paint.
A small area of the painted wall is wetted with warm water. You can simply spray it, or wipe it with a sponge.
5 minutes are allotted to wait, and the wet surface is inspected.

Studying the wall

exfoliation. If the coating begins to peel off, the putty will not stick to it. You may not have to scrape the paint off the entire wall: if the tatters are fragmentary, it is enough to clean only these areas;
swelling. Places where the paint has bubbled up are broken with a hammer and chisel and the coating is removed. If there are too many such deformations, you should think about completely removing the paint;
high humidity. Here you will have to remove the paint over the entire surface in any case. A damp wall will not hold an additional layer of putty: it will fall off in pieces along with the old coating. Moreover, mold may begin to develop under the putty. In such a situation, you will have to not only dismantle the coating to the very base, but also treat the slab with antiseptic compounds.

If there are such global problems, you will have to look for a way to completely remove the paint. If no serious external defects are found, you need to check how firmly the paint adheres to the wall. To do this, just run the corner of the spatula across the surface to create a scratch, and try to pick up the coating with the flat side. If it does not begin to crumble, you can safely putty over the paint.

Getting ready for puttying

To immediately take up a spatula is to transfer building materials in vain. Some preparations should still precede the putty work.

Small peelings and defects are sanded and cleaned. If cracks are found, they are opened and cleaned down to the concrete base, after which they are sealed. Further manipulations are postponed until the puttyed defects have dried. If the recesses are large in area, a plaster mesh is used for puttying.
The wall can be washed with any dish soap. During use, dust and dirt have settled on it. This stage is especially important for the kitchen, where grease from cooking food settles on surfaces.
To increase the degree of adhesion, the roughness of the wall increases. You can achieve results in different ways. First, sand the paint with rough sandpaper. Secondly, making cross-shaped notches over the entire surface is the favorite and most reliable method used by professional plasterers.
Next, the surface is primed.
After puttying, do you need to prime the walls, and why do it before it?

You need to choose compounds specifically designed for paint putty. Particularly good results are obtained with a quartz primer containing small particles and having deep penetration. However, it is quite expensive, so you may have to look for more affordable options.
The primer is repeated twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Eventually, in a certain number of cases the question of whether putty can be applied to paint may receive a positive answer. After a thorough examination and with some preparation, this is quite acceptable. But professional repairmen still insist on complete dismantling: all finishing work gives better results on cleaned surfaces.

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Watching the work of professional plasterers, you can’t help but admire how smoothly and evenly they manage everything. It seems that it is simply impossible to repeat this with your own hands. This is wrong. Puttying is not a complicated job and does not require specialized knowledge. We will describe in detail how to putty walls correctly, how to choose the composition of the mixture and what tools you will need for the work.

Putty - a leveling layer to eliminate minor wall defects

Putty is a mixture of water and a dry compound. The dry composition may contain only gypsum powder or gypsum powder with the addition of chalk, plasticizers or other fillers.

The question often arises: from putty. Nobody really knows the answer to that. The composition of putty and putty is the same, the application method is also identical. So it turns out that both of these names mean the same material intended for leveling walls.

Why do you need putty?

The main task of putty is to create a perfectly flat surface suitable for painting or. Not a single repair can be done without gypsum mixture; this material is used for final stage finishing.The putty is applied in several thin layers, each of which fills the smallest irregularities on the surface. Using this composition you can fill uneven areas up to 2 cm deep.

Important! Professionals do not advise applying the putty mixture in a thick layer; it may fall off within a couple of days after the completion of the repair.

On average, one layer of putty should not exceed 7 millimeters, and finishing layer– no more than 2 millimeters.

How to choose a spatula for puttying walls

The range of tools for plastering work is very large. In a hardware store, your eyes are simply wide open, what to choose?For putty you will need a wide flat metal spatula with a smooth edge and a spatula - a spatula.

When choosing a façade trowel, pay attention to its edge: it is important that it is perfectly smooth, without jagged edges. The metal on the edge should not bend. To work outside the building, use a tool up to 60 centimeters wide. For interior work, a width of 30-40 centimeters is sufficient.

Small spatulas are designed for neat processing of corners. If you decide to do this kind of work for the first time, do not take a very wide tool; small ones will be more convenient to work with.

Another important point in choosing a spatula is its weight. The lighter the tool, the better.It is convenient if the second spatula, spatula, has a wooden handle. It doesn't slip in your hand. The spatula is selected in such a size that it is convenient to scoop the mixture from the bucket.

The metal part of the tool must be made of stainless steel. Any other option is not suitable, since contact with water will quickly rust and leave marks on the surface being treated. You can find spatulas made of durable plastic on sale, but they are much more expensive than metal ones.

Which putty is better and how to choose the composition for walls

Putty mixtures can have different contents; let’s look at each type in more detail:

Type of mixture	Application Features	Application area
Acrylic	Putty on acrylic base It is characterized by elasticity and resistance to high humidity. As a result, you will get a smooth surface that is resistant to mechanical damage and does not shrink or form cracks.	External and internal work, leveling, roughing, starting and finishing
Latex	The plastic mixture forms very thin layers that do not crack or fall off. This finish reacts negatively to lower temperatures.	Only for interior decoration
Plaster	Used to level walls and can be applied in a thick layer. It reacts poorly to humid air and is destroyed by water. Does not withstand mechanical stress.	For interior work
Cement	It is not afraid of negative temperatures, does not react to humidity, and is resistant to mechanical damage. It shrinks when applied and may crack during use.	Suitable for facade work and interior decoration

It is impossible to give a definite answer which of the listed mixtures is better. For different conditions you need to select the appropriate compositions. For the facade of a building it is better to take cement putty, for or - acrylic, for living rooms– latex. If you are wondering what to use, take plaster.

How to choose a putty mixture for different types of finishes

The putty mixture can be divided into three types according to purpose:

universal;
finishing;
starting.

The difference lies in the grain size of the filler. The starting mixture has larger fractions. With its help, you can level surfaces with significant damage: cracks, differences, potholes. The starting putty can be applied in a layer 2 centimeters thick. It is thrown directly onto the layer of plaster and leveled using the rule.

The purpose of the finishing layer is to complete the leveling before application. The fractions of this mixture are very small, and the resulting layer looks smooth and even. The final putty has a layer no thicker than 5 mm.The universal mixture can be used both as a starting and finishing layer. This type of composition is used in cases where the walls do not have significant defects.

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

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“If there are significant flaws on the surface being treated, use a starting and finishing mixture, rather than one universal one. The universal one costs more. In addition, the result of using two mixtures is much better.”

Basics of wall putty technology

- the costly part of the construction budget. If you want to save money, do it yourself. It’s only scary before starting work; after the first wall the process will improve.

The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, clearly separating the stages and fulfilling all requirements.Let's look at how to properly putty walls for painting or wallpaper.

How to properly prepare and prime walls

Preparing the foundation is a critical stage of the work. The result of your efforts depends on it. If the walls have been wallpapered or painted, all layers of decorative coating must be removed. Wallpaper can be soaked so that it comes off the wall easily. Particularly resistant layers should be treated with hot steam.

Paint is much more difficult to remove. You can mechanize the process using a drill with an attachment. But cleaning must be done very carefully, otherwise you will have to devote a lot of time to puttying. It is better to remove the paint by hand using sandpaper secured to a wooden block.

Important! During the process of cleaning the walls, a suspension of cement, whitewash and dust will hang in the air. Be sure to use a respirator to protect your respiratory system.

Oil paint can be softened with a solvent, but all such compositions have a pungent odor; you can only work in a well-ventilated area.After cleaning the decorative coating, the walls should be brushed and wiped with a slightly damp cloth. This will remove any remaining dust and construction debris.

Essentially, a primer is an adhesive that forms a durable film on the wall. It consists of different components: resin, lime, bitumen, alum. If you want to know whether a primer is suitable for your walls, pay attention to the recommendations for use on the composition packaging. There are mixtures designed for processing metal, concrete, and plastic.

How to make your own putty

You can cook it yourself. In this case, it will cost you a little less, and the quality will not be inferior to the purchased composition. The ingredients for the mixture are not difficult to find; you will need ordinary gypsum powder and chalk, which is used for whitewashing. For hardening and plasticity, a solution of laundry soap, wood glue, drying oil and varnish are added to the chalk. During the manufacturing process, chalk and gypsum are first mixed dry, and then the powder is poured into glue solution. And now a few putty recipes for different surfaces:

Ingredients	Purpose	Peculiarities
Chalk – 2 kg Plaster – 1 kg Wood glue solution 3-5%	Concrete walls, alignment of seams on plasterboard slabs. Designed for dry rooms.	Hardens quickly after application. This mixture must be prepared in small portions.
Chalk – 1 kg Wood glue – 100 g Drying oil – 1 kg	For finishing wooden surfaces that will subsequently be painted with oil paint. Suitable for rooms with high humidity.	Hardens slowly, forming an airtight film. To prepare, heated glue is mixed with drying oil and then chalk is added.
Chalk – 2 kg Wood glue solution 10% Drying oil – 25 g Laundry soap – 50 g	Designed for puttying ceilings and plastered walls.	The soap should be dissolved in a small amount of water, glue should be added to the desired percentage and then chalk should be added.

Ingredients

Purpose

Peculiarities

Chalk – 2 kg

Plaster – 1 kg

Wood glue solution 3-5%

Concrete walls, alignment of seams on plasterboard slabs. Designed for dry rooms.

Hardens quickly after application. This mixture must be prepared in small portions.

Chalk – 1 kg

Wood glue – 100 g

Drying oil – 1 kg

For finishing wooden surfaces that will subsequently be painted with oil paint. Suitable for rooms with high humidity.

Hardens slowly, forming an airtight film. To prepare, heated glue is mixed with drying oil and then chalk is added.

Chalk – 2 kg

Wood glue solution 10%

Drying oil – 25 g

Laundry soap – 50 g

Designed for puttying ceilings and plastered walls.

The soap should be dissolved in a small amount of water, glue should be added to the desired percentage and then chalk should be added.

Leveling walls with your own hands using “homemade” putty is no different from working with a factory-made mixture.

How to prepare a factory-made mixture

To prepare the mixture, you need to select clean dishes and, preferably, a construction mixer. Manually mixing putty without lumps is difficult and physically difficult.

Don't try to mix the whole package at once, especially if you're new to this business. The composition dries quickly, so while you are practicing on a small section of the wall, the entire batch may freeze and have to be thrown away.

For kneading, use water at room temperature. After preparing the putty, let it sit for a quarter of an hour. The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If you have prepared a polymer, acrylic or latex mixture and have not had time to use it completely, fill the container with putty with water. Next time, carefully drain the surface layer of water and use the composition.

Leveling walls using starting putty

What does the process of starting to putty walls with your own hands look like:

Illustration	Description of work
	Mix the mixture according to the instructions on the mixture packaging. Use a construction mixer for quality mixing.
	Scoop up the thick mixture with a spatula and apply it to a spatula, spreading it over the entire length.
	Using an upward motion, apply the putty to the surface. Fill the wall section this way.
	Using a wide spatula, using upward and sideways movements, smooth out all the seams that have formed.
	After the putty has hardened, level the surface with sandpaper.

For a beginner in this business, video material on how to putty walls with your own hands:

Video instruction: how to properly putty walls using beacons

You are lucky if the main surface is made with high quality, in compliance with the level and without major flaws. If not, you can level it with putty.For perfect results on uneven wall beacons will be required. To set them, you need to pull the thread along the wall, vertically and diagonally. The direction of the thread should be checked with a building level.

After the marks have dried, the main putty work is carried out.

How to correctly level walls with putty using beacons, in the following video material:

How to apply finishing putty to a wall

As a finishing layer, you need to use a polymer composition - acrylic or latex.

Illustration	Description of work
	To mix the topcoat, you need to carefully measure the proportions and prepare the amount of water recommended in the instructions.
	The mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. It is necessary to thoroughly mix the solution until the consistency of sour cream is obtained.
	To apply the finishing layer, use a spatula 30-40 centimeters wide
	The first layer of topcoat should be the thinnest, it will help reveal all existing irregularities
	The second layer of putty is applied only a day later, after the first has completely dried.

Beginners most often face the question of how to work with a spatula correctly. Not everyone succeeds the first time. Pay attention to the video recommendation on how to apply finishing putty to the wall:

Related article:

We'll talk about different compositions and purposes of solutions, methods of their preparation, necessary tools and materials, as well as about the application technology itself.

How to properly sand walls after puttying

No matter how hard you try, after the finishing layer of putty, traces of a spatula will remain on the wall. If you don't remove them, they will show through. At the final stage you need to sand the surface. This is a labor-intensive task, but without sanding you will never achieve the desired result.

Is it possible to putty over paint - recommendations for repairs. How to putty the walls with your own hands using finishing putty. Is it possible to paint the putty with enamel?

Methods for removing oil paint

Prime the surface

We putty the surface

Is it possible to putty over paint, and if so, how?

Putty on paint

Is it possible to putty over paint? Will the putty stick to the paint?

Prime old oil paint?

Is it possible to glue tiles to water-based paint?

How to paint drywall without putty

Should I remove the old glass wool?

In a newly built house, is it necessary to remove the old foam around the PVC windows and reseal them with vapor barrier materials?

Tiles on old tiles

Is it possible to putty over oil paint?

Is it possible or not?

How to remove paint from a wall.

Is it possible to putty over paint? Let’s putty correctly

Puttying walls without removing oil paint

Painting putty walls

In what cases, when, how and is it possible to apply putty to paint?

What is putty

Why putty the walls?

Putty or putty, which is correct?

Types of putty for walls

Starting putty

Finishing putty

Putties for special applications

Facade putty

Which putty to choose

Selecting putty based on composition

Gypsum putty

Acrylic putty

Latex putty

Polymer putty

Dry putty for walls

Which putty to choose for painting

Which putty to choose for wallpaper

Start-finish putty

The best finishing putty

Summing up the choice

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

Putty consumption per m2

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints “Fugenfüller” and “Uniflot”

How to putty walls (tool)

Preparation for putty

How to remove old putty from walls

Putty of various surfaces for different finishes

How to putty drywall

Primer of drywall before puttying

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

Plasterboard putty for painting

Putty walls for painting

Fiberglass putty before painting

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper

Puttying concrete walls

Putty on penoplex (how to putty on penoplex)

Putty on plastered walls

Is it possible to putty over paint?

Putty without plaster

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step-by-step instructions)

Step 1: preparing the walls

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Step 3: how to thin the putty

Step 4: putty technology

How to apply putty

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Step 5: how to putty corners

Internal corner

Outside corner

Puttying drywall corners

Reinforcement

Cobweb (fiberglass)

Painting mesh

How long does it take for putty to dry on walls?

Sanding walls after puttying

Mesh for grouting putty

Machine grinding

How to properly putty walls under wallpaper. Preparing the walls