The diagonal of the roof does not come out, what should I do? Sequence of work on a roof with layered rafters

With all the variety of roofing materials, the construction of roofs is not much different from each other. They are united by common rules.
Rule 1. Stingrays gable roofs must have the shape of a regular rectangle, slopes hip roofs- the shape of isosceles trapezoids and isosceles triangles.
This requirement is due to the fact that almost all piece elements roofing coverings have rectangular shape. When laying them on a slope that does not have right angles, for example, having a diamond-shaped outline, you will inevitably end up with an open wedge. It is possible to close such a wedge only by cutting and adjusting piece roofing materials, which creates additional difficulties, increases the consumption of materials, reduces the speed of construction and, finally, simply spoils appearance building. But most importantly- greatly increases the possibility of roof leakage.
Isosceles slopes of hip roofs make it possible to cut roofing materials according to one or two templates, and use the halves of some roofing materials on opposite sides of the slope. For example, an asbestos-cement corrugated sheet, cut diagonally, can be used on both sides of the slope. If, by design or as a result of negligence, slopes roofs have different angles of inclination, cutting of piece elements is carried out individually. Eventually- the speed of work is significantly reduced, and there is no talk of any savings in building materials.
To obtain the correct shapes of the slopes, you first need to measure the length, width, diagonals and heights of the rebuilt building frame. Here a lot of unexpected surprises can open up for the developer. The building's plan can take the shape of a rhombus or trapezoid. Differences in height opposite walls can reach several centimeters. Such errors are formed not only due to carelessly performed work on the construction of walls. They could arise due to the fact that different angles when cutting wood or masonry brick walls there were unemployed masons or carpenters. For example, two ineffective masons, constantly standing at opposite corners of the masonry, can give an error of 1 cm per 1 m of height simply because one has a masonry seam 1 mm thicker, and this despite the fact that both are good masons. What then can we say about amateurs, whose errors will be not only in height, but also in linear dimensions due to the obstructions of the corners outward and inward. After taking measurements, it is necessary to eliminate, if possible, the identified wall defects. In order for the roof ridge to be strictly horizontal and the roof slope to lie in the same plane with the horizon, a number of measures are taken to construct the rafter system. Mauerlat and bench for layered rafters and lining for hanging rafters set according to the water level (Fig. 1), thereby achieving their horizontality.

Then measure the distance between the Mauerlat and the leg (it should be the same) (Fig. 2) and check the diagonals. If necessary, the design is corrected. The pads under the hanging rafters are checked in the same way - they measure the distance between them and diagonally.

This preparatory stage sometimes takes a lot of time, but the more carefully it is done, the easier it will be build a roof. The bench can be made above or below the mauerlat beams, this does not play any role, the main thing is that it is horizontal. The Mauerlat should lie at the same height along the entire perimeter of the building, and the lining should be the same. After installing the bed, racks are attached to it. They are prepared at the same design height and installed plumb, and the vertical installation of the racks is checked both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Then the purlin is laid on the racks. Since the bed was set horizontally, and the posts are the same in height and set vertically, it means that the purlin will lie horizontally. After installation, the rafter legs can be attached between the beam and the girder of the wind struts.
The rafters are installed at a certain distance from each other. This distance is called the installation pitch of the rafters and is determined by calculation. The correct installation of the rafters is determined by laying a flat board on 3-4 rafter legs. If there is a visible gap between the board and the rafter leg, the rafter is rearranged. If there are no gaps, it means that the rafters are aligned correctly, that is, in the same plane. The final inspection is carried out visually - the rafter system is viewed from edge to edge. When attaching rafters, you should avoid installing twisted and humped boards, since they will have to be pushed under the sheathing device, which means reducing the design cross-section. Boards having a large number of It is strictly forbidden to install knots, as well as boards with through knots directed across the fibers - they may break.
Triangular hanging rafter patterns are difficult to assemble in a vertical position, so they are assembled on the ground or on a hard floor and then installed in finished form. When installing them, make sure that the ridge assembly is strictly above the center line of the building. Because roof trusses have the same dimensions, and the linings are leveled, their horizontalness is obtained automatically. The trusses are plumb and secured with wind ties.
The rectangularity of the roof slopes is ensured by the sheathing. Before installing it, it is advisable to already have roofing material available. Having data about physical and mechanical characteristics and the size of the material, you can calculate the amount of lateral extension of the sheathing beyond the walls and the length of the fillies, i.e., determine the actual dimensions of the roof slope. When installing the sheathing, its extension beyond the walls is made slightly larger than required. The width of the ramp at roof installation calculated taking into account the overlap of adjacent sheets of piece roofing material. It is best to do this calculation in real conditions, that is, lay out one row of roofing elements directly on the roof or on the ground, and then measure with a tape measure. This is exactly the situation when you need to measure seven times and cut once. The distance obtained as a result of measurement or as a result of calculation is measured at the ridge of the roof, right angles are laid from the extreme points and the excess sheathing is sawed off. In the same way, calculate the length of the fillies that provide their eaves overhang. When calculating the eaves overhang, you must not forget about the free overhang of the roofing elements by 2-10 cm. A free overhang is made so that rain drops blown by the wind do not wet the bottom board of the sheathing. After all these not very complicated calculations, there will be a whole number of elements on the roof slope in both vertical and horizontal rows. And since the angles are right, there will be no hassle with laying the roof. The result will be graceful and smooth roof. A right angle is laid using a wooden square (Fig. 3) with sides of 3, 4, 5 m or with smaller sides that are multiples of these numbers.

On hip roofs, as mentioned above, we must try to make the same angles of inclination of the slopes, which is only possible with correct installation Mauerlat and Lezhney.
Rule 2. Before installing the covering from the main roofing material, the valleys, valleys, junctions of pipes to the roof and junctions of dormer windows are covered along a continuous sheathing with galvanized roofing steel(Fig. 4 and 5). To cover the junction of pipes and dormer windows, a blank is made and installed together with the main coating.

Rule 3. The bottom bar of the sheathing should be higher than all subsequent bars by the thickness of the roofing material being laid. To understand why this is needed, just look at Fig. 6.

If this block were the same as all the others, the eaves element of the roof would “pick its nose.”
Rule 4. All roofs are roofed from the bottom up, towards the rain flow. Some roofs, such as corrugated sheets, are laid to meet the prevailing winds from left to right or, conversely, from right to left.
Many roofing materials already have holes in their design for nails or wire twists, or they are made on a self-adhesive basis, or the kit includes special adhesives and sealed gaskets. Roofing device made from such materials is not difficult, since it is completely thought out.
Roofing materials only need to be assembled on the roof, as the children's designer. Roofing materials that do not have fastening holes (cement-fiber corrugated sheets, metal tiles, profiled flooring) are supplied with roofing nails to match the color of the coating. These nails are attached to the ridge of the piece with a rubber sealing washer.
In addition to fasteners, sets of modern roofing materials include ridge and eaves elements, pipe trims and much more.
Rule 5. Under the roofs mansard roofs lay an additional waterproofing layer from polyethylene film, roofing felt or roofing felt. For “cold” roofs, additional waterproofing is desirable, but not necessary. In all subsequent drawings, additional waterproofing will be shown, but this does not mean that it is mandatory.
Rule 6. When installing warm roofs, we must not forget about air circulation between the insulation and the sheathing, which should be from 2 to 5 cm, otherwise the insulation will lose its properties due to saturation with moisture.
Rule 7. When installing roofs, you must remember to tie yourself to the ridge , and when laying the last ridge element, consider a method of evacuation from the roof. Very often you have to descend using a rope thrown over the ridge of the roof and tied to something heavy lying on the ground on the other side, or the rope is tied to the ridge of the roof and passed under the upper roofing element, then after lowering the rope is pulled out and the roof is straightened from the inside. Of course, such a descent requires some physical preparation. Why is such a stunt method of descent mentioned, when you can make a walking ladder and leave it on the roof forever? Because, as a rule, roofs are often built without a ladder.
And lastly, if a person experiences even the slightest dizziness when climbing to a height, then he has nothing to do on the roof, let others do it - not everyone is born as an astronaut.

To do it right calculate and set the diagonal of the foundation or formwork foundation - it’s very good to hire specialists. But if you have already seen the program several times “ square meter”, heard a conversation several times about how to build, and also a bunch of jokes about construction? - another thing. This gives us “every right” to assume that we ourselves can cope with this simple matter, like the corners and diagonals of the foundation formwork. This is exactly the high opinion of himself that everyone who plans to build a bathhouse with their own hands (Ha-ha!)

I wrote about the beginning of marking and designing the foundation and formwork in the article. At the time of driving in stakes and installation external boards I already checked the diagonal length of the formwork. Everything converged down to the millimeter. This is the most important condition for obtaining right angles for a bathhouse log. But after the first marking, there were manipulations with installing the bottom of the grillage, installing internal formwork panels, and finishing the formwork of the columns from ground level to the bottom of the future foundation. Of course, I tried very hard not to move anything, and drove the stakes deep.

But as with any construction project, something went wrong. It's not as scary as if I didn't notice it or I didn't know about it. Therefore, before laying the reinforcement, I decided to check the diagonals again. The difference was 2 cm. It’s good that it was discovered before the concrete was poured.

How to display the diagonal of the formwork?

To simplify construction correct formwork I made the length of the walls absolutely equal. Therefore, the distortion can only be in the form of a diamond. In the figure, the degree of skew of the formwork is deliberately increased for clarity.
To correct the situation, we did this:

This combined movement of one side of the formwork (north side in the picture) was not too difficult, since the stakes and the original arrangement of the formwork corresponded correct position. Therefore, the diagonal displacement was minimal and efforts to “adjust” the position of the shields did not cause mechanical stress and effort.

The method of setting angles along equal diagonals can only be used if the sides are equal. Diagonal Equalities will be sufficient!

For larger sides of formwork, it is possible to apply the “golden” triangle rule. If such a triangle, according to the Pythagorean theorem, has sides 3, 4, then the hypotenuse is equal to 5 units. Thus, it is enough to measure on the sides of the formwork parts that are multiples of 3 and 4 at the top right angle and then the distance between the control points will be 5 parts! This will guarantee right angles and equality of diagonals!

To implement proper planning formwork installation I highly recommend using the cast-off method, which allows you to installation work check corners, remove and reinstall foundation perimeter cords.

Before pouring the foundation, do not be too lazy to check the diagonals again. It won't be superfluous! Concrete cannot be fixed easily or quickly. Errors are very expensive and time-consuming to correct. The foundation for a log house has more quality requirements than the foundation for a stone house. Nothing can be leveled with mortar!

Don't forget to remove it before pouring for easy removal!

General rules for any foundation

Select a starting point. The first side of our foundation needs to be tied to some object on our site.

Example. Let's make sure that our foundation (house) is parallel to one of the sides of the fence. Therefore, we stretch the first string equidistant from this side of the fence to the distance we need.

Construction of a right angle (90⁰). As an example, we will consider a rectangular foundation in which all angles are as close as possible to 90⁰.

There are several ways to do this. We will look at 2 main ones. © www.site

Method 1. Golden triangle rule

To construct a right angle we will use the Pythagorean theorem.

In order not to go deep into geometry, let's try to describe it more simply. So that between two segments a And b To make an angle of 90⁰, you need to add the lengths of these segments and derive the root of this sum. The resulting number will be the length of our diagonal connecting our segments. It is very easy to do the calculation using a calculator.

Usually, when marking the foundation, the dimensions of the sides are taken so that when taken from the root, a whole number is obtained. Example: 3x4x5; 6x8x10.

If you have a tape measure, then in general there will be no problems if you take segments that are different from those in common use. For example: 3x3x4.24; 2x2x2.83; 4x6x7.21

If we made measurements in meters, then the values turn out to be very clear: 4m24cm; 2m83cm; 7m21cm.

Calculator

It is also worth noting that measurements can be made in any length measurement system; the main thing is to use the aspect ratio we know: 3x4x5 meters, 3x4x5 centimeters, etc. That is, even if you don’t have a tool for measuring length, you can take, for example, a staff (the length of the staff does not matter) and measure it with it (3 staff x 4 staff x 5 staff).

Now let's see how to put this into practice.

Instructions for marking a rectangular foundation

Method 1. Rules of the golden triangle (i.e. Pythagoras)

Let's look at the example of building a rectangular foundation with dimensions 6x8m using the golden triangle (so-called Pythagoras).

1. Mark the first side of the foundation. This is the easiest part in constructing our rectangle. The main thing to remember. If we want our foundation (house) to be parallel to one of the sides of the fence or other object on the site or beyond, then we make the first line of our foundation equidistant from the object we have chosen. We described this procedure above. To place the first string, you can use pegs firmly fixed in the ground, but in ideal For this purpose, use cast-offs. We will use it. We will make the distance between the cast-offs for this side 14 m: between the cast-offs and future corners, 3 m and 8 m under the foundation.

2. Pull the second string as perpendicular to the first as possible. In practice, it is difficult to pull it perfectly perpendicular, so in the figure we also showed it slightly deflected.

3. We fasten both strings at the intersection point. You can fasten it with a staple or tape. The main thing is to be reliable.

4. We begin to form a right angle using the Pythagorean theorem. We will build a right triangle with legs 3 by 4 meters and a hypotenuse of 5 meters. To begin with, we measure 4 meters from the intersection of the strings on the first string, and 3 meters on the second. Place marks on the lace using tape (clothespin, etc.).

5. Connect both marks with a tape measure. We fix one end of the tape measure at the 4 meter mark and lead it towards the 3 meter mark on the other string.

6. If we have a right triangle, then both marks should converge at a distance of 5 meters. In our case, the marks did not match. Therefore, in our case, we move the string to the right until the 3 m mark coincides with the 5 m division of the tape measure.

7. As a result, we got a right triangle with an angle of 90⁰ between the two strings.

8. We don’t need any more marks and they can be removed.

9. Let's start building a rectangle. We measure on both strings the lengths of the sides of our foundation to be 6 and 8 meters, respectively. We put marks on the strings.

10. Pull the third string as perpendicular to the first string as possible. We fasten both strings at the 8 m mark.

11. Pull the fourth string as perpendicular to the second string as possible. We fasten both strings at 6 meter marks.

12. We make marks on the third string 6 meters and on the fourth 8 meters.

13. To get a quadrilateral with right angles in our case, it is necessary that both marks on the third and fourth strings coincide. To do this, move both strings until the marks connect.

14. As a result, if everything was measured correctly, then we should get a regular rectangle. Let's check if it turned out by measuring the diagonals.

15. We measure the lengths of the diagonals. If they are the same, as in our case, we have a regular rectangle. The diagonals have the same length in an isosceles trapezoid. But we know one angle of 90⁰, and in an isosceles trapezoid there are no such angles.

16. Ready marking of a rectangular foundation using the Pythagorean theorem. © www.site

Method 2. Web

A very simple way to make markings in the form of a rectangle with corners of 90⁰. The most important thing we need is twine that does not stretch, and the accuracy of your measurements using a tape measure.

1. Cut the pieces of twine that we will need to form the markings. IN in this example we are building a foundation with sides 6 by 8 meters. Also, to correctly construct a rectangle, we will need equal diagonals, which for a 6 by 8 meter rectangle will be equal to 10 meters (i.e. Pythagoras is described above). You also need to take a reserve length of string for fastening.

2. We connect our “web” as in the figure. We fasten the sides with diagonals in 4 places in the corners. The diagonals themselves do not need to be fastened at the intersection point.

3. Pull the first string (points 1,2). We will secure it with pegs. The main thing is that the pegs hold firmly in the ground and do not move away when our structure is pulled. This important point need to be taken into account.

4. We tighten corner 3. The main condition is that string 1-3 and diagonal 2-3 do not sag and are as tight as possible. After fixing with a peg at point 3, we have an angle at point 1 of 90⁰.

5. Pull corner 4 and install the peg. We make sure that the twine at points 2-4, 3-4 and diagonal 1-4 do not sag and are as tight as possible.

6. If all conditions are met, then the result should be a rectangle with angles as close as possible to 90⁰.

Marking for the foundation of the house

We make a two-tier cast-off. The lower tier is the level of the pillars.

The upper tier of cast-off is the level of the grillage.

Create a rectangle for the outer contour using the so-called Pythagoras. Then we retreat by an amount equal to the width of the tape and make an internal contour.

The easiest way to mark. We build a rectangle according to the dimensions of the foundation using the Pythagorean theorem to find the right angle. © www.site

From the author

In this article, we looked at how to make markings for the foundation with your own hands by constructing a rectangle with angles of 90⁰. In general, there is nothing complicated about the markup. The cost of the issue is the cost of twine, boards for casting (an economical option - pegs) and the ability to use a tape measure.

It is impossible to equip a roofing system without sheathing, the laying of which is carried out on top of the rafters. It serves as a direct attachment point for the finishing roof sheathing.

What is the roof made of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only receives a decorated appearance: it also has a protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from entering the ceilings. In addition, the roof significantly reduces the impact Wastewater on walls and basement surfaces, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of a building: the second design involves several arrangement options.

In the composition of the usual gable roof includes:

Rafters. To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, they usually use gusset equipped with bolts and brackets.
Mauerlat. This beam is located in a horizontal position. He relies on individual elements rafters
Overhangs. This is what the lower sections of the rafters are called.
Horse. It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters meet.
Lathing, counter-lattice. Basic parts, providing installation of roofing materials and insulation.
Waterproofing and insulating materials. With their help, warm attics are equipped.
Roof decking. Can be hard or soft.

In general, roofing is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option involves laying thermal insulation in attic space: the roof in this scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. This approach is mainly used for the design of attic residential floors.

Purpose of sheathing in a roofing system

Thanks to the lathing, the following tasks are achieved:

Happening reliable fastening roofing materials.
In this case, the space between the roof and the insulation is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
It is convenient to attach a layer of insulation and waterproofing to the roof sheathing.
The rafter system receives protection from excessive load in cases of heavy snowfall.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before lathing the roof, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

First grade wooden beam, 6 m long, without knots or other defects. The cross section is selected depending on what finishing material will apply. For metal tiles you will need products with a cross section of 50x50 mm, metal roofing equipped with timber 60x40 mm. Ceramic tiles laid on a beam with a square section of 75x75.
Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
Hacksaw, chainsaw.
Polyurethane foam.
Hammer, perforator.
Large bolts and nuts. Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
Construction level, tape measure.

Types of roofing sheathing

When studying the question of how to properly frame a roof, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. Choice suitable option lathing directly depends on the roofing material used.

There are two main types of lathing:

Solid. When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. A continuous sheathing is usually constructed under soft tiles, roll laying, flat slate or metal tiles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed on top of the eaves overhangs, as well as in areas where the slopes adjoin. When choosing this sheathing, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
Sparse. The gap between the timber in this case can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for installation natural tiles, metal sheets and wave slate.

We install the roof sheathing with our own hands

After rafter system fully equipped, careful measurements of the roof are carried out. This is done using a rope, which simplifies the measurement of diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may encounter certain difficulties. Next, vapor barrier and insulation is installed, in the form of mineral wool or other suitable material.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing is assembled on top of previously laid waterproofing film, when laying which an overlap of 15 cm is observed. It is most convenient to mount the canvases from the top and down, taking the rafters as the directions. Suitable for attaching film construction stapler. The slats are stuffed on top of the rafters to create a counter-lattice.

It is important not to forget about the ventilation gaps separating the film and the roofing material being laid. Simply put, when laying down film, it is important to leave some slack. The same method is used to separate the film and insulation. To simplify the task of how to properly make a roof sheathing, a sheathing template is used, which is designed to strictly adhere to design parameters.

If a soft roof is being laid, then the installation of the sheathing elements is carried out using the method of leveling and joining. To avoid subsequent deformation, the solid structure must be fastened with special care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under rolled material

To lay rolled sheets you will need roofing sheathing solid type, made of beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring must be laid tightly, without cracks. The sheathing pitch is chosen to be no less than 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve an ideal smoothness of the sheathing surface, with the obligatory recessing of the nail heads and screws deep into the wood.

How to make a soft roof

Installation of soft type roof sheathing is most common due to the high popularity of this roof. This material is inexpensive, and it is very easy to install. Here you will also need to equip a continuous type of sheathing, which is equipped with a special calibrated board. This installation has a two-layer structure, ensuring maximum evenness of the joints.

In these conditions, tongue-and-groove boards and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary testing, have proven themselves well. antiseptic impregnation. To avoid damage soft roof in corner areas, the ends of the boards must be rounded.

Under the tiles

According to experts, it is tiled roofs have the most optimal performance characteristics in terms of quality and durability. Usually these are single-layer structures, the sheathing for which is made of bars with a cross-section of at least 6 cm.

The laying step is based on the dimensions of the tiles used. Some situations require the creation double battens, from the same material. To achieve uniform fit of the tiles, it is necessary to build the most even plane of the structure. This implies using timber of the same size.

What is the difference between lathing for slate and metal tiles?

To arrange the sheathing, we can use one or two layers of laying. The first option involves the use of timber with a square cross-section of 50 mm. Optimal step in this case - 50 cm, with elements laid in a parallel direction to the ridge. If a unified profile is used instead of the usual corrugated slate, the pitch can be increased to 80 cm, with the section of the beam increasing to 75 mm. The main thing is that there are at least three crossbars under each slate span.

The cornice is loaded the most in this design, so its thickness should be increased. Ridges and overhangs are decorated with continuous decking. To achieve uniform load distribution and density of sheet laying, even beams are made 30 mm thicker than odd ones. In order for the structure to last as long as possible, before attaching the sheathing to the roof, all of it wooden parts needs to be processed special compounds fire-fighting and antiseptic action (more details: “How and with what to treat rafters and sheathing - choose an antiseptic”). To apply them you will need paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

To test the quality of a fire-fighting substance, it is enough to chop off a small piece of treated wood and try to set it on fire. A well-protected material ignites only when it is exposed to an open flame: once it is removed, the substance immediately dies out.

Proper design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to both the aesthetic beauty of the house and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality each individual part roofing structure. The sheathing, despite its invisibility, plays very well important role, therefore, when arranging it, it is important to comply with all necessary requirements and standards on how to make roof sheathing. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials of appropriate quality.

Roof sheathing: how to fasten it, installation on the roof, how to make a proper roof sheathing with your own hands

Roof sheathing: we create it ourselves

Build a beautiful one, cozy home for a family it’s a city dweller’s dream. Having studied all the intricacies of the art of construction, you will be able to bring your idea to life. But, during the work, one of the main questions will be - how to make a roof sheathing? Approach it correctly, because the protective and aesthetic properties of the roof depend on the quality of workmanship.

The need to create a frame

Before moving on to listing the types of roof sheathing, understand what sheathing is and what it is used for. The lathing used for the roof of private buildings is a structure made of wooden beams and boards. The roofing system installation process is necessary to:

evenly distribute the load of a person walking on the surface during its maintenance;
securely fix the materials - use a frame welded from metal or made of wood for the sheathing;
correctly create a ventilation space between the ceiling and the waterproofing, which protects the building from condensation;
promptly prevent the accumulation of moisture at the boundary between warm and cold roofing layers;
fully ensure the protection of rafters from the effects of weather precipitation (snow and ice).

The number of layers that the sheathing has will depend on the slope of the roof. For a pitched roof, a horizontal single-layer covering is sufficient. The two-layer method involves working with the lower load-bearing beams, fixed in increments of 50-100 cm. A layer of plywood or wooden planks is attached on top of it. This technique will allow you to save material and even out the errors in the rafter system using roof sheathing.

Types of roof frames

The roofing needs a reliable and durable surface on which it will be laid. An incorrect construction algorithm will lead to deformations, lack of protective functions homes during bad weather.

Depending on the number and frequency of mounted planks, the type of material used, and the angle of inclination, the frame is divided into the following types:

Double layer. Used when maximum structural strengthening is required. The first layer is laid with big step, and the second - with normal or without clearance.
Solid. It is carried out at intervals of about 1 cm and prevents the appearance of deformations when the wood shrinks or swells.
Regular, in increments of 20-40 cm. Mainly used to reinforce metal coating profile sheets.
Sparse. The gaps between the boards reach 75 cm. Used for lightweight floors.

In order to choose the right material and purchase tools, you need to draw up a drawing of the sheathing and carry out preparatory manipulations.

Materials and tools used

Choosing a floor material to cover a building is difficult. Slate, corrugated sheeting, tiles - which of these positions is suitable for covering? It all depends on your desires and financial capabilities.

Cost calculation

To find out how to make the lathing correctly, you need to carry out calculations. The basic rule of construction is accurate planning of costs and quantities of raw materials. For calculations you will need the following data:

roof size;
material type;
roofing structure.

If independent design Seems challenging task, use the online program. Enter the size of the coating, all known parameters of the materials used - the program will automatically perform the calculation.

Purchasing building materials for wooden sheathing

Use seasoned wood with no visible defects. The presence of knots and cracks can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and subsequent destruction. Used for work following materials and tools:

wooden beam with a section of 50×50, 60×60, 75×75 mm;
edged boards for the sheathing with a section of 150×20, 150×50 mm;
fastening elements (screws, nails) with a length twice the size of the timber;
level, pencil, tape measure for marking;
circular saw used for cutting roofing material;
a hammer for nails or a screwdriver if self-tapping screws are used.

The lumber must be marked and cut according to the drawing. If electrical equipment is not available, you can buy or rent it.

Installation technology

Having completed preliminary calculations and made a purchase necessary materials and tools, you can begin installation. For different types there are separate floorings technological nuances. But general order production looks like this:

Take careful measurements of the roof after installation. rafter frame. To do this, you need to check the diagonals along all slopes with a nylon cord. Deviations should not exceed 20 mm, because the run-up will cause difficulties during further fastening of the roof.
Process all wooden elements antiseptic solutions to avoid rotting and insect damage.
Place waterproofing materials on the rafters.
Perform installation bottom slats. Use large cross-section timber for these purposes.
Continue work, laying boards at the selected spacing. For each type of flooring it is selected individually. An incorrectly performed step can lead to weakening of the entire structure.
If it is necessary to carry out insulation, place on the first layer mineral wool, and, after this, a second layer of sheathing can be made.
Lay the end boards next to each other to use them for later decoration of the ridge.
Fasten on both sides, and if the overhang is large, perform additional fixation.

These rules should be followed when installing a frame under any type of roofing material. But there are minor features.

Features of moisture protection of sheathing

To create a waterproofing layer, vapor barrier or hydrobarrier materials are used. When working with them, an overlap of 10-15 cm should be maintained. The waterproofing is installed in the direction from the eaves to the ridges, with slight tension. Ventilation holes are formed due to the sagging of the film material, which is secured with a construction stapler.

How to make sheathing for corrugated sheets?

The roof sheathing under corrugated sheets differs in some nuances. The profile sheet has a large load - a person can walk on it without fear of falling through. When working with a profiled sheet, consider several important nuances:

For a roof made of corrugated sheets, it is necessary to strictly maintain the spacing between the boards. Its distance can be varied from 50 to 150 cm, focusing on the wave of the material and its marking (optimal for roofing systems there will be sheets with index H);
When using sheets with a height of less than 35 millimeters for work, the step should be kept to a minimum. This will increase the strength and rigidity of the coating;
standard parameters wooden planks less than the size of the slope, so it is necessary to splice them;
in the horizontal planes, the joints must be shifted to prevent weakening of the structure;
For corrugated sheets, special fasteners are used - galvanized self-tapping screws with rubber washers that prevent the sheets from being crushed during fastening. The connection is made using rivets.

If it was built from a profile sheet pitched roof with a slight slope, you need to make a solid frame from boards 60-70 mm wide. The nail heads are recessed as much as possible. The sheathing board is laid strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. Only well-dried wood is used so that warping does not occur when it is placed tightly.

Lathing for slate roofing - specifics

For sheathing under slate, it is advisable to purchase beams with a larger cross-section. Three beams must be placed under each sheet to evenly distribute the load. Fastening is done with special slate nails in the places where the wave touches the wood. Use lumber without bending to ensure a tight, gap-free fit of the slate sheet.

Making a frame for metal tiles

In addition to profile sheets, there is another type of durable and durable coating- metal tiles. When building a house, it is placed in a single-layer manner. The lathing can be made by stuffing bars with a cross-section larger than 1 mm onto the rafters. The pitch of the structure depends on the parameters of the tile. To ensure a uniform fit of the roof, the frame is made as even as possible. The position of the boards is checked by a level.

Benefits of self-building

A roof installed in compliance with the requirements of the technological process will last long years, will save your home from destruction. After studying the recommendations on the issue, you can perform labor-intensive tasks yourself. Having carried out a set of measurements with the required accuracy and followed the installation recommendations, you will receive good and durable protection from all sorts of adversities, ensure peace and comfort of living in a country house.

Roof sheathing: how to make and install it yourself?

Roof sheathing: frame creation, types roof frames, materials and tools used, lathing for various types roofs

Good afternoon
Please tell me what to do correctly.
Flooded strip foundation on the 16th reinforcement, 62-64 centimeters wide to a depth of 2 meters 10 centimeters. Dimensions along the outer perimeter are 11 meters by 12 meters 60 centimeters. With a middle tape under a load-bearing partition 62 centimeters wide for laying floor slabs PP-63 and PP-54. It is planned to build a three-story house from aerated concrete blocks with a width of (400*600*250 mm) or (450*600*250 mm), with insulation external wall— 50mm basalt insulation, air gap -20 mm, finishing brick -120 mm.
During the installation of the foundation of the protruding element of the bay window sector, octagonal, (protrusion beyond the dimensions of the foundation 11 * 12.6 meters along the wide half of the PP-63 foundation) for hall rooms. The diagonal of the foundation was increased by 18 centimeters while controlling the dimensions of the diagonal perimeter of 11*12.6 meters.
The support of the floor slab on the walls is planned to be 200 mm.
I kindly ask you to give professional advice:
1. Is it worth trying to level the diagonals by installing an overhanging masonry made of solid ordinary brick with a hardness of 200 with mesh reinforcement and a maximum of how many centimeters?
There is a fear that under the weight of the facing brick, the overhanging part of the widening above the foundation will deform and the cladding of 3 floors will crack
2. Limit yourself to a large overhang of 3-5 cm to compensate for the diagonals with the subsequent construction of the structure.
3. What deviations of diagonals are allowed for such building sizes in construction?
4. What consequences can there be if diagonal compensation is not applied when installing floor slabs, will it change load bearing capacity building??? How to carry out external finishing when facing facing bricks. Nikolay

Hello, Nikolay!

Aligning the diagonals makes sense, since the loss of a right angle can lead to difficulties in performing a number of works - from facade masonry to roofing and finishing.

Most reliable way align diagonals - do monolithic belt at the level of the basement of the building. The outer contour of the belt should clearly form the desired geometry of the facade. Task internal contour– to ensure the possibility of erecting main walls from aerated concrete blocks at right angles.

The height of such a belt should be taken within the range of 200-300 mm. Longitudinal reinforcement – at least 6 reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm of class A-III (A400). Since such a belt will have side overhangs (due to which the geometry will be adjusted), transverse reinforcement in such places should be performed with closed-section clamps made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm A-I (A240) with a pitch of 100 mm in places of overhangs and 400 mm at other areas.

An example of reinforcement of a belt with 6 longitudinal rods and transverse clamps of a closed section

The belt should be supported on the walls of the underground, made, for example, with masonry made of red (clay) bricks or FBS blocks. The width of the belt must be sufficient to install a wall structure on it (not less than the sum of: 120 mm of cladding + 20 mm of gap + 50 mm of insulation + 400 or 450 mm of masonry from aerated concrete blocks).

To avoid deformation of the cladding, the façade masonry must be securely anchored into the main wall.

An example of anchoring facade masonry (in your case, a different insulation and a smaller ventilation gap, but the essence is the same) with a flexible connection “Galen” BPA L-6-2P with a pitch of 500x500 mm

With small overhangs you can limit yourself reinforced masonry solid brick of a sufficiently high strength grade (M200 is suitable). But in this case it will be possible to only partially correct the geometry, which will complicate the implementation further work. In addition, this grade of strength is typical for white (silicate) bricks not intended for masonry. underground parts walls Red (clay) brick, often used for these purposes, is less durable.
Deviations in geometric dimensions during the construction of walls made of brickwork are regulated by the requirements of SP 70.13330.2012 “Load-bearing and enclosing structures,” in particular Table 9.8.

Dimensional tolerances for masonry structures

As can be seen from the table, the deviation of the walls from the alignment axes (that is, in plan) should not exceed 10 mm. A regulation prohibiting making the building plan diamond-shaped and trapezoidal shape(that is, figures with different diagonals) does not exist.

If you do not compensate for the differences in diagonals, the main consequences will be as follows: difficulties with the construction facing masonry(in corners), wedge-shaped trims flooring material(with the correct geometric design it will be striking), possible problems when joining roofing material (depending on the roof configuration), etc. Measures to correct geometry will pay off handsomely.

If the depth of support of the floor slabs along the entire length of the supporting part is not less than the required one (90 mm for reinforced concrete and 120 mm for brickwork), there will be no reduction in the reliability of the building in terms of load-bearing structures. Do not forget to anchor the floor slabs to each other and to the masonry.