Optimal operating mode of a wall-mounted gas boiler. Optimal operation of a gas boiler What temperature is best to set on a gas boiler

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Gas equipment is ubiquitous in apartments and country houses. You independently regulate the equipment, setting a comfortable temperature in the room. This way you are not dependent on utility companies and can save fuel at your own discretion. But for operation to be truly economical, it is important correct setting gas boiler.

Why do you need proper adjustment of equipment:

  • To save resources.
  • To make the room comfortable, use hot water.
  • To extend the life of the equipment.

You need to start with the right choice boiler, its power. Consider the features of the room: the number and area of ​​windows, doors, quality of insulation, wall materials. The minimum calculation is based on heat losses per unit time. You will learn more about this in the article “”.

Gas boilers are divided into single-circuit and double-circuit. The latter perform heating on the heating and hot water supply (DHW) circuit. Single-circuit units provide heating only. Therefore, boilers are installed to obtain hot water. indirect heating.

Depending on the type of placement, equipment can be floor-mounted or wall-mounted. Units placed on the floor have more power. Therefore, they are used for large areas (from 300 m²). Installation is carried out only in separate rooms (boiler rooms). These are models Baxi (""), Buderus (""), "", "".

Attachments ("Lux", "", "", ) fit perfectly into small apartments in the kitchen. Therefore, it is important to take into account all the nuances of the location. From correct selection parameters depend on the comfort of residents, as well as the durability of the boiler.

Power setting

The heating power depends on the modulation of the gas burner. If you choose an electronically controlled device, then it includes a thermostat that connects to a room thermometer. The adjustment occurs automatically: the thermometer measures the temperature in the room. As soon as it drops below a comfortable level, he gives a command to start the burner or increase the flame power.

In normal mode, the thermometer monitors the temperature in only one room. But if you install valves in front of each radiator, control will be in all rooms.

You can adjust the burner manually by operating the gas valve. This is true for atmospheric boilers with an open combustion chamber. Thus, in the Protherm “Cheetah” and “Protherm Bear” models, the valve is controlled by an electric motor. To change the settings, you need to go to the service menu. Most often, this is done by a specialist, and the user follows the steps specified in the instructions.

But we will still tell you how to call up the hidden menu for adjustments.

Before going into the menu and making settings, do this:

  • Unscrew the taps on the batteries.
  • Set the room thermostat to maximum values.
  • In the user settings, set the maximum temperature that you use in severe frosts. The burner always turns off when the readings reach 5°C above the set values. For example, at +75 degrees, a shutdown will occur when it reaches 80 degrees.
  • Cool the coolant to 30°C.

For Protherm Gepard:

  • Hold down the Mode key on the panel. Once the display shows “0”, set the value to 35 by pressing “+” and “−”.
  • Press Mode to confirm.
  • As soon as d lights up on the screen. 0, enter the line number in the menu. Do this using “+” and “−” d.(number). For settings maximum power choose d.53 burner, d.52 for minimum burner.
  • Use Mode to move to parameter selection. Change it "+" "−".
  • The installation receives automatic confirmation.
  • Return to the original menu - hold Mode.

While adjusting using the panel, monitor the flame change and temperature rise.

For "Proterm Panther" the actions are different:

  • Press Mode for about 7 seconds.
  • Using keys 2 (see the picture above), enter code 35.
  • Confirm your entry.
  • Once d.00 appears on the left side of the screen, use the 2 buttons to enter the number.

  • You can change the parameter on the right side of the screen using keys 3.
  • After confirmation, press mode to exit the menu.

For Electrolux Quantum models:

  • Unplug the device for a few seconds.
  • After turning on the controller, hold the red button for 15 seconds.
  • As soon as P01 lights up on the display, press the red key until P07 appears.

  • If number 1 flashes after P07, then 38°C–85°C is maintained. If the light is 4 - 60°C–85°C, 7 - 38°C–60°C.
  • Use the “+” “−” knob to adjust the desired value.
  • Turn off the boiler for a few seconds. Now it will automatically support the specified parameters.

How to program equipment Viessmann, look at the video:

For Eurosit 630:

All the steps described above are used to configure the device in heating mode. Many users encounter a problem when in DHW mode from a tap water is coming unstable temperature. To fix this, use our recommendations.

Changes in hot water temperature

To regulate the water supply to comfortable levels, you need to reduce the burner power.

  • Open the mixer to switch the boiler to DHW mode.
  • Set the temperature to 55°C.
  • Go to the service menu as described above (for “Proterm”).
  • Select option d.53.
  • Click Mode.
  • After this, the maximum power will appear in the line. For example, let's take indicator 17.

If you experiment and immediately select the minimum value - 90, then the temperature of the water from the tap will not be comfortable. We set it to 80 and get an increase in water temperature. Increase the values ​​little by little until you are satisfied with the DHW supply. In our case, the water reached +50 degrees, and the setting was 80. This despite the fact that the factory setting was 17. That’s the difference.

SIT valve adjustment

The automation of some units provides for the presence of a SIT type gas valve. It is found in the Vaillant and Proterm models. The adjustment is made by rotating the bolts on the valve. To change power, you need to change pressure. Values ​​of 1.3–2.5 kPa are considered normal.

To reduce pressure, turn the bolts counterclockwise. To reduce the pressure in DHW mode, you need to rotate the adjustment nut. More details are shown in the video:

Bypass valve

If the radiators in the room warm up unevenly, increase the coolant circulation rate. To do this, turn the bypass screw clockwise.

If, when you turn on the heating, the liquid in the radiators makes a noise, then reduce the speed of the coolant by rotating the screw reverse side. To set up and measure, use a pressure gauge or digital differential pressure gauge. It will indicate the nominal pressure, which should not exceed 0.2–0.4 Bar.

Startup problems

During startup and operation gas equipment“Bosch”, “Ariston”, “Ferroli”, “Oasis” may have problems.

Boiler clocking

If the power of the equipment is incorrectly selected, excessive cycling occurs. This means that the device’s burner often turns on and off, and the radiators do not have time to warm up. Firstly, this leads to rapid wear of components and parts of equipment. Secondly, a large amount of fuel is used.

To eliminate the phenomenon and reduce cyclicity, two methods are used:

  • Reduce burner flame.
  • They increase the heating power by including additional radiators in the circuit.

We described above how to complete the first point. Sometimes you have to install additional batteries, although this is a rather expensive method.

Igniter does not work

If attempts to ignite at Immergas, Korea Star are unsuccessful, inspect the igniter. It could get clogged. The problem can be resolved by cleaning the part. You can wipe it with a dry cloth or use a solvent.

Inspect the combustion block. Soot often accumulates there. Lightly tapping the gas supply pipe to the burner removes soot.

The igniter worked, but still no ignition. Diagnostics required:

  • thermocouples;
  • supply valve;
  • thermostat;
  • solenoid valve.

No DHW heating

When the mixer is opened, water flows with low pressure and the flow is cold. Inspect the heat exchanger for blockages caused by scale deposits. Clean the tubes with reagents. Use a pump to bleed. After the procedure, rinse the unit with running water. To keep temperatures comfortable, install cleaning filters. They reduce the likelihood of scale formation.

05.09.2018

They are almost never equipped with circulation pumps, a safety group, or adjustment and control devices. Everyone solves these issues independently, choosing a heating device piping scheme in accordance with the type and features of the heating system. Not only the efficiency and performance of heating, but also its reliable, trouble-free operation depends on how correctly the heat generator is installed. That is why it is important to include in the diagram components and devices that will ensure the durability of the heating unit and its protection in the event of emergency situations. In addition, when installing a solid fuel boiler, you should not give up equipment that creates additional convenience and comfort. Using a heat accumulator, you can solve the problem of temperature differences when rebooting the boiler, and an indirect heating boiler will provide the house with hot water. Have you thought about connecting a solid fuel heating unit according to all the rules? We will help you with this!

However, if the rooms warm up after this, hydraulic adjustment is recommended in connection with updating the heating system. Hydraulic adjustment is especially useful when using condensing boilers. These devices only operate at their highest possible efficiency if the return temperature is below the temperature at which water condenses from the boiler flue gas. Special cases are single pipe systems heating, especially in apartment buildings, as well as buildings with underfloor heating or mixed underfloor heating and radiator heating.

Typical wiring diagrams for solid fuel boilers

The complexity of controlling the combustion process in solid fuel boilers leads to high inertia of the heating system, which negatively affects the convenience and safety during operation. The situation is further complicated by the fact that the efficiency of units of this type directly depends on the temperature of the coolant. For efficient work heating piping must ensure the temperature of the thermal agent within 60 - 65 °C. Of course, if the equipment is not integrated correctly, such heating at above-zero temperatures “overboard” will be very uncomfortable and uneconomical. Besides, full-time job heat generator depends on a number of additional factors - type heating system, the number of circuits, the presence of additional energy consumers, etc. The wiring diagrams presented below take into account the most common cases. If none of them meets your requirements, then knowledge of the principles and structural features of heating systems will help in developing an individual project.

Hydraulic adjustment can also be done using these heating systems in principle, but usually involves much higher costs. Accurate determination of the boiler characteristics of a heating system is only possible if the heat loss of a structural furnace can be relatively labor-intensive. This calculation of heat load ≡ Heating load ≡ Heating load is the heating power that must be constantly supplied to the room to maintain the temperature in the space, so it must be as large as the sum of heat loss from conduction and ventilation.

System open type with natural circulation in a private house First of all, it should be noted that open gravity-type systems are considered the most suitable for solid fuel boilers. This is due to the fact that even in emergency cases associated with a sharp increase in temperature and pressure, the heating will most likely remain sealed and operational. It is also important that the functionality of the heating equipment does not depend on the availability of power. Considering that wood-burning boilers are installed not in megacities, but in areas remote from the benefits of civilization, this factor will not seem so insignificant to you. Of course, this scheme is not without its drawbacks, the main ones being:

The valuation should be made on the basis of clear rules, for example, according to comparable values ​​for rooms relating to previous years or comparable premises in the relevant reporting period. In this case, all heating costs are distributed according to a fixed scale, usually by square meter. from experience. Calculation regulation.

What is the required boiler output? For example, using subsequent thermal insulation ≡ Thermal insulation≡ Thermal insulation reduces the heat flow from the hot to the cold side of the component. For this purpose, substances with low thermal conductivity are introduced as a layer between hot and cold. Important water retention is achieved using a vacuum. In addition, sleeping air retains heat flow very well.

  • free access of oxygen to the system, which causes internal corrosion of pipes;
  • the need to replenish the coolant level due to its evaporation;
  • uneven temperature of the thermal agent at the beginning and end of each circuit.

Layer any mineral oil 1 - 2 cm thick, poured into the expansion tank, will prevent oxygen from entering the coolant and reduce the rate of evaporation of the liquid. Despite its shortcomings, the gravity scheme is very popular due to its simplicity, reliability and low cost.

Overestimation is not harmful for oil or gas condensing boilers and may even make sense in some cases. For low temperature boilers ≡ Low temperature boilers ≡ A low temperature boiler is a boiler that can also be used in continuous operation with a low heating water inlet temperature of 35 to 40 degrees Celsius and in which this may cause condensation in the exhaust gases containing water vapor. The standard utilization rate of low temperature boiler is more than 90%.

Condensing heaters achieve an even greater degree of standard efficiency at 100%. Over-measuring should be avoided. To ensure safe removal exhaust gases from the heating system, the heating and the chimney must match each other. Previously, the interaction between the boiler and the chimney was much less important. Adapting the chimney to the boiler was in the background. The high flue gas temperatures of boilers at that time also ensured that the flue gases were discharged without damage, even in the case of large chimney cross-sections, and that the chimney was dry.

When deciding to install using this method, keep in mind that for normal coolant circulation, the boiler inlet must be at least 0.5 m below the heating radiators. The supply and return pipes must have slopes for normal coolant circulation. In addition, it is important to correctly calculate the hydrodynamic resistance of all branches of the system, and during the design process try to reduce the number of shut-off and control valves. The correct operation of the system with natural coolant circulation also depends on the installation location of the expansion tank - it must be connected at the highest point.

However, the exhaust gases of modern low-temperature and condensing boilers have very low temperatures due to energy-saving operation. In addition, when replacing an old boiler, the boiler's rated heating output is adapted to the actual, possibly reduced, heating load of the building. This usually results in reduced performance compared to an older, larger boiler. Due to the existing chimney, significantly lower exhaust gas volumes with lower exhaust gas temperatures will be transmitted after replacing the old boiler.

Closed system with natural circulation

Installing a membrane-type expansion tank on the return line will avoid harmful effects oxygen and eliminate the need to control the coolant level. When deciding to equip a gravity system with a sealed expansion tank, consider the following points:

Why are chimneys wet? The hot exhaust gas that leaves the boiler combustion chamber contains water vapor. If this exhaust gas is cooled to a certain temperature, the water vapor becomes water and is deposited on cooler surfaces. The temperature of the flue gases in humidified chimneys must be high enough to prevent condensation in the chimney, otherwise moisture or moisture penetration may occur.

The relevant standards and building regulations require precise coordination of the exhaust system with the heat generator. The chimney must be designed and constructed in such a way that exhaust gases can be removed without mechanical assistance and also to prevent damage to the chimney or building.

  • the capacity of the membrane tank must contain at least 10% of the volume of the entire coolant;
  • a safety valve must be installed on the supply pipe;
  • the highest point of the system must be equipped with an air vent.

Additional devices that are included in the boiler safety group (safety valve and air vent) will have to be purchased separately - manufacturers very rarely complete the units similar devices. The safety valve allows the coolant to be discharged if the pressure in the system exceeds a critical value. A normal operating indicator is considered to be a pressure of 1.5 to 2 atm. The emergency valve is set to 3 atm.

The following requirements for the smoke system must be observed. If the chimney is located on outer wall, there is a risk that the exhaust gas will not obtain the necessary thermal buoyancy and that water vapor will condense on the walls of the chimney. In many cases the existing chimney will be replaced with the above mentioned chimney. no longer meet the requirements.

Every year the chimney cleaner confirms good exhaust gas values. “What more do you need?”, you may wonder. “A whole lot” is our answer. More energy and save more money for the environment, more comfort, more operational security, more knowledge to trust future security. The deflection of the chimney determines whether the combustion quality and exhaust gas losses during burner operation comply with legal requirements. It checks whether the pipe is working and the system is safe.

Features of systems with forced coolant movement

In order to equalize the temperature in all areas, they integrate into a closed heating system circulation pump. Since this unit can provide forced movement of the coolant, the requirements for the level of installation of the boiler and compliance with slopes become negligible. However, you should not give up the autonomy of natural heating. If a bypass branch, called a bypass, is installed at the boiler outlet, then in the event of a power outage, the circulation of the thermal agent will be ensured by gravitational forces.

Even if he assures you of ideal values, this does not make much difference to the economics of your system. After all, the old boiler must operate constantly at high temperatures all year round. Especially during transition months or even in summer when the boiler is only needed for heating drinking water, high cooling and/or heat is generated, which is typically much higher than the exhaust gas losses measured through the flue.

Not so with the new boiler. Here the boiler water temperature is automatically adjusted to the corresponding outside temperature. If heat is not required, they will even turn off completely. If the boiler is 10 years old or more, it is therefore worth dealing with a new heating system. New system saves up to 30% energy and costs. You have a clear advantage in comfort, operational safety, environmental protection and safety to further comply with legal requirements.


The electric pump is installed on the return line, between the expansion tank and the inlet fitting. Thanks to the lower coolant temperature, the pump operates in a more gentle mode, which increases its durability. Installing a circulation unit on the return line is also necessary for safety reasons. When water boils in the boiler, steam may form, the entry of which into the centrifugal pump can completely stop the movement of the liquid, which can lead to an accident. If the device is installed at the inlet of the heat generator, it will be able to circulate the coolant even in the event of emergency situations.

Operational safety: Heating is only required when necessary

Of course, it would be an exaggeration to think that your old heating system will give up its spirit in the coming days with a big blow. No, if she does, she will probably do it quietly and calmly - without warning. In any case, you can show off new materials and capabilities without any obligation in our showrooms.

Running costs: is this what he wants?

You will notice high efficiency and long term boiler service that is easy to maintain. How much your oil and gas costs, check your bill regularly. It's not easy to see if your heating system is economically viable. It might even generate heat where none is needed: Or it's just oversized.

Connection via manifolds

If it is necessary to connect several parallel branches with radiators, a water heated floor, etc. to a solid fuel boiler, then balancing of the circuits is required, otherwise the coolant will follow the path of least resistance, and the remaining parts of the system will remain cold. For this purpose, one or more collectors (combs) - distribution devices with one input and several outputs - are installed at the outlet of the heating unit. Installation of combs opens up wide possibilities for connecting several circulation pumps, allows you to supply a thermal agent of the same temperature to consumers and regulate its supply. The only disadvantage of this type of piping can be considered the complication of the design and the increased cost of the heating system.

The development of harmful exhaust gases is closely related to consumption and use. Boilers that consume a lot also produce a lot of exhaust gases. Key words: forest death, greenhouse effect. Old boilers use about a third of the fuel and produce more than 60 percent of the pollutants than new boilers.

The new burners with modern technology have particularly economical combustion with favorable values, so they still do not meet the requirements of the Blue Angel ecolabel and the Swiss Air Pollution Regulation.


A separate case of manifold piping is a connection with a hydraulic arrow. Its difference from a conventional collector is that this device acts as a kind of intermediary between the heating boiler and consumers. Made in the form of a pipe large diameter, the hydraulic arrow is installed vertically and connected to the inlet and pressure pipes of the boiler. In this case, consumers are inserted at different heights, which allows you to select the optimal temperature for each circuit.

Operational safety, cost, environment, ease of use. You may be thinking: “Yes, such a modern heater that I already like.” And you may also think: But it's worth it again. After all, it’s not just about buying the purchase price. Then the score looks completely different.

Then you might say, “I can’t save that much.” Be sure to have this account set up for your home by a professional. He also knows financing, for example for solar and condensing technology. What is a refund? Where and why is the technology used? How does reverse flow increase? What are the benefits of heating system efficiency?

Installation of emergency and control systems

Emergency and control systems serve several purposes:

  • protection of the system from depressurization in the event of an uncontrolled increase in pressure;
  • temperature control of individual circuits;
  • boiler protection from overheating;
  • prevention of condensation processes associated with big difference supply and return temperatures.

To solve system safety problems, a safety valve, emergency heat exchanger or natural circulation circuit is introduced into the piping circuit. As for the issues of regulating the temperature of the thermal agent, thermostatic and controlled valves are used for these purposes.

Modern heating systems only operate optimally when certain operating temperatures are not exceeded or exceeded. To prevent excessive cooling of the return, use what is called a return lift. We explain to you in this article what a rollback is and how to technically implement it. You will also find out which heating systems have a reverse rise and which do not.

Free 5 Quotes for your New Heater Request

Functional implementation of reverse flow lift

Reverse lift is a technology used in hot water heating systems to quickly achieve and maintain the desired minimum temperature in the heating circuit heater. The rise of the return flow is achieved through the use of a special mixing valve. This mixes under the cold return a variable portion of the hot heating water, which was heated by a heat generator. This usually results in faster and more high temperature coolant returning back to the heat generator.

Trim with three-way valve.


A solid fuel boiler is a periodic heating unit, so it is at risk of corrosion due to condensation that falls on its walls during heating. This is due to the ingress of too cold coolant from the return into the heat exchanger of the heating unit. The danger of this factor can be eliminated using a three-way valve. This device is an adjustable valve with two inputs and one output. Based on a signal from the temperature sensor, the three-way valve opens the hot coolant supply channel to the boiler inlet, preventing the formation of a dew point. As soon as the heating unit enters operating mode, the supply of liquid in a small circle stops.

Consequently, the heat exchanger has flow and return flow with a lower temperature difference. The higher temperature of the return flow, which rises in this way, has a positive influence on the operation of the heating system, which can thus function optimally. The optimal operating temperature depends on the fuel being burned, or more precisely on the so-called flue gas dew point.

At the same time, reserve lift is used to counteract damage that may occur, for example, when gases that accumulate during fuel combustion cool down and condense. Condensation can damage the system because it causes effects such as pitting. Temperature differences can also cause stress, leading to cracks.


A fairly common mistake is to install a centrifugal pump before a three-way valve. Naturally, with the valve closed, there can be no talk of any liquid circulation in the system. It is correct to install the pump after the adjusting device. A three-way valve can also be used to regulate the temperature of the heating agent supplied to consumers. In this case, the device is set to work in the other direction, mixing cold coolant from the return to the supply.

Circuit with buffer capacity


The low controllability of solid fuel boilers requires constant monitoring of the amount of firewood and draft, which significantly reduces the convenience of their operation. Installing a buffer tank (heat accumulator) will allow you to load more fuel without worrying about possible boiling of the liquid. This device is a sealed tank that separates the heating unit from consumers. Due to its large volume, the buffer tank can accumulate excess heat and transfer it to radiators as needed. The mixing unit, which uses the same three-way valve, will help regulate the temperature of the liquid coming from the heat accumulator.

Trim elements ensuring the safety of the heating system


Except safety valve As mentioned above, protecting the heating unit from overheating is solved using an emergency circuit through which cold water from the water supply is supplied to the heat exchanger. Depending on the design of the boiler, the coolant can be supplied directly to the heat exchanger or to a special coil installed in the working chamber of the unit. By the way, it is the last option that is the only possible one for systems with filled antifreeze. The water supply is carried out using a three-way valve, which is controlled by a sensor installed inside the heat exchanger. The “waste” liquid is discharged through a special pipeline connected to the sewer system.

Connection diagram for an indirect heating boiler


Piping with connection of a boiler for hot water supply can be used for heating systems of all types. To do this, a special heat-insulated container (boiler) is connected to the water supply and hot water supply system, and a coil is installed inside the water heater, which is cut into the heating agent supply line. Passing through this circuit, the hot coolant transfers heat to the water. Often, an indirect heating boiler is also equipped with heating elements, thanks to which it becomes possible to obtain hot water in the warm season.

Correct installation solid fuel boiler into a closed heating system

A huge advantage of solid fuel boilers is that their installation does not require any permits. It is quite possible to carry out the installation yourself, especially since this does not require any special tools or special knowledge. The main thing is to approach the work responsibly and follow the order of all stages.

Boiler room installation. The disadvantage of heating units used to burn wood and coal is the need for a special, well-ventilated room. Of course, it would be possible to install a boiler in the kitchen or bathroom, however, periodic emissions of smoke and soot, dirt from fuel and combustion products make this idea unsuitable for implementation. In addition, the installation of combustion equipment in living rooms It is also unsafe - the release of fumes can lead to tragedy. When installing a heat generator in a boiler room, several rules are followed:

  • the distance from the combustion door to the wall must be at least 1 m;
  • ventilation ducts must be installed at a distance no higher than 50 cm from the floor and no lower than 40 cm from the ceiling;
  • There should be no fuel, lubricants or flammable substances and objects in the room;
  • The base area in front of the ash pit is protected with a metal sheet measuring at least 0.5 x 0.7 m.

In addition, at the location where the boiler is installed, an opening is provided for the chimney, which is led outside. Manufacturers indicate the configuration and dimensions of the chimney in the technical data sheet, so there is no need to invent anything. Of course, if the need arises, you can deviate from the documentation requirements, but in any case, the channel for removing combustion products must provide excellent traction in any weather. Installing chimney, all connections and cracks are sealed with sealing materials, and windows are also provided for cleaning the channels from soot and a condensate catcher.


Preparing to install a heating unit

Before installing the boiler, select a piping scheme, calculate the length and diameter of the pipelines, the number of radiators, the type and quantity of additional equipment and shut-off and control valves. Despite all the variety of design solutions, experts recommend choosing combined heating, which can provide forced and natural circulation of the coolant. Therefore, when making calculations, it is necessary to consider how a parallel section of the supply pipeline (bypass) with a centrifugal pump will be installed and to provide for the slopes necessary for the operation of the gravity system. You shouldn't give up either buffer tank. Of course, its installation will entail additional costs. However, a storage tank of this type will be able to level out the temperature curve, and one load of fuel will last for a longer time.


Particular comfort will be provided by a solid fuel boiler with an additional circuit, which is used for hot water supply. Considering the fact that due to the installation of a solid fuel unit in a separate room, the length of the hot water circuit increases significantly, an additional circulation pump is installed on it. This will eliminate the need to drain cold water while waiting for hot water to flow. Before installing the boiler, be sure to provide space for the expansion tank and not forget about devices designed to reduce pressure in the system in critical situations. Simple scheme a harness that can be used as a working project is shown in our drawing. It combines all the equipment discussed above and ensures its correct and trouble-free operation.

Installation and connection of a solid fuel heat generator

After all necessary calculations and preparation of equipment and materials, installation begins.

  • The heating unit is installed in place, leveled and secured, after which the chimney is connected to it.
  • Heating radiators are mounted, a heat accumulator and an expansion tank are installed.
  • Install the supply pipeline and bypass, on which the circulation pump is installed. In both sections (direct and bypass) install Ball Valves so that the coolant can be transported by forced or in a natural way. We remind you that the centrifugal pump can only be installed with the correct orientation of the shaft, which must be in a horizontal plane. The manufacturer indicates diagrams of all possible installation options in the product instructions.
  • The pressure line is connected to the heat accumulator. It must be said that both the inlet and outlet pipes of the buffer tank must be installed in its upper part. Thanks to this quantity warm water in the container will not affect the readiness of the heating circuit. We definitely note the fact that cooling the boiler during the reboot period will reduce the temperature in the system. This is due to the fact that at this time the heat generator will work as an air heat exchanger, transferring heat from the heating system to the chimney. To eliminate this shortcoming, separate circulation pumps are installed in the boiler and heating circuits. By placing a thermocouple in the combustion zone, you can stop the movement of coolant through the boiler circuit when the fire dies out.


  • A safety valve and an air vent are installed on the supply line.
  • Connect the emergency circuit of the boiler or install shut-off and control valves, which, when the water boils, will open the main line for its discharge into the sewer and the channel for supplying cold liquid from the water supply.
  • Install a return pipeline from the heat accumulator to the heating unit. A circulation pump, a three-way valve and a settling filter are installed in front of the boiler inlet pipe.
  • An expansion tank is mounted separately on the return pipeline. Note! Shut-off valves are not installed on pipelines that are connected to protection devices. These areas should have as few connections as possible.
  • The upper outlet of the heat storage tank is connected to a three-way valve and the circulation pump of the heating circuit, after which the radiators are connected and the return pipeline is installed.
  • After connecting the main circuits, they begin to install a hot water supply system. If the heat exchanger coil is built into the boiler, then it will be enough to simply connect the cold water inlet and the outlet to the “hot” line to the appropriate pipes. When installing a separate indirect heating water heater, use a circuit with an additional circulation pump or three-way valve. In both cases, a check valve. It will block the path for heated liquid into the “cold” water supply.
  • Some solid fuel boilers are equipped with a draft regulator, the function of which is to reduce the flow area of ​​the blower. Due to this, the air flow into the combustion zone is reduced and its intensity, and, accordingly, the temperature of the coolant is reduced. If the heating unit has this design, then install and adjust the drive of the air damper mechanism.

Places for everyone threaded connections must be carefully sealed with sanitary flax and a special non-drying paste. After installation is completed, coolant is poured into the system, centrifugal pumps are turned on at full power and all connections are carefully inspected for leaks. After making sure that there are no leaks, fire up the boiler and check the operation of all circuits at maximum modes.

Features of integrating a solid fuel unit into an open heating system

The main feature of open heating systems is the contact of the coolant with atmospheric air, which occurs with the participation of an expansion tank. This capacity is designed to compensate thermal expansion coolant that occurs when it is heated. The expander is installed at the highest point of the system, and in order to prevent hot liquid from flooding the room when the tank is overfilled, a drain tube is connected to its upper part, the other end of which is discharged into the sewer.


The large volume of the tank forces it to be installed in the attic, so you will need additional insulation expander and tubes suitable for it, otherwise they may freeze in winter. In addition, you must remember that this element is part of the heating system, so its heat losses will lead to a decrease in the temperature in the radiators. Since the open system is not sealed, there is no need to install a safety valve or connect emergency circuits. When the coolant boils, the pressure will be released through the expansion tank.

Special attention should be paid to pipelines. Since the water in them will flow by gravity, the circulation will be influenced by the diameter of the pipes and the hydraulic resistance in the system. The last factor depends on turns, narrowings, level changes, etc., so their number should be minimal. In order to initially impart the necessary potential energy to the water flow, a vertical riser is installed at the outlet of the boiler. The higher the water can rise along it, the higher the coolant speed will be and the faster the radiators will warm up. For the same purposes, the return inlet should be located at the lowest point of the heating system.

Finally, I would like to note that in open systems It is preferable to use water rather than antifreeze. This is due to higher viscosity, reduced heat capacity and rapid aging of the substance upon contact with air. As for the water, it is best to soften it and, if possible, never drain it. This will increase the service life of pipelines, radiators, heat generators and other heating equipment several times.

Solid fuel boiler piping - Emergency cooling valve

3. Protection against low temperature of the coolant in the “return” of the solid fuel boiler.

What will happen to a solid fuel boiler if its return temperature is below 50 °C? The answer is simple - a tarry coating will appear on the entire surface of the heat exchanger. This phenomenon will reduce the performance of your boiler, make it much more difficult to clean, and most importantly, can lead to chemical damage to the walls of the boiler heat exchanger. To prevent such a problem, it is necessary to provide appropriate equipment when installing a heating system with a solid fuel boiler.

The task is to ensure the temperature of the coolant that returns to the boiler from the heating system at a level not lower than 50 °C. It is at this temperature that the water vapor contained in the flue gases of a solid fuel boiler begins to condense on the walls of the heat exchanger (transition from a gaseous state to a liquid one). The transition temperature is called the “dew point”. The condensation temperature directly depends on the moisture content of the fuel and the amount of hydrogen and sulfur formations in the combustion products. As a result of a chemical reaction, iron sulfate is obtained - a substance useful in many industries, but not in a solid fuel boiler. Therefore, it is quite natural that manufacturers of many solid fuel boilers remove the boiler from warranty if there is no return water heating system. After all, here we are not dealing with the burning of metal at high temperatures, but with chemical reactions that no boiler steel can withstand.

The simplest solution to the problem of low return temperature is to use a thermal three-way valve (anti-condensation thermostatic mixing valve). The thermal anti-condensation valve is a thermomechanical three-way valve, ensuring the admixture of coolant between the primary (boiler) circuit and the coolant from the heating system in order to achieve a fixed boiler water temperature. In essence, the valve releases the coolant that has not yet been heated in a small circle and the boiler heats itself. After reaching the set temperature, the valve automatically opens the coolant to the heating system and operates until the return temperature again drops below the set values.

Solid fuel boiler piping - Anti-condensation valve

4. Protection of the heating system of a solid fuel boiler from operation without coolant.

Operating a boiler without coolant is strictly prohibited by all manufacturers of solid fuel boilers. Moreover, the coolant in the heating system must always be under a certain pressure, which depends on your heating system. When the pressure in the system drops, the user opens the tap and fills the system to a certain pressure.

In this case, there is a “human factor”, which may well make mistakes. This issue can be resolved using automation.
Automatic make-up installation is a device that is adjusted to a certain pressure and connected to an open water tap. If the pressure drops, the process of filling the system to the required pressure will occur fully automatically.

In order for everything to work correctly, it is necessary to fulfill certain conditions when installing the automatic refill valve:
- the automatic make-up valve must be installed at the lowest point of the heating system;
- during installation, it is necessary to leave access for cleaning or possible replacement of the valve;
- water from the water supply must be constantly supplied to the valve with pressure, and the water supply tap and the make-up valve must always be open.

Solid fuel boiler piping - Automatic feed valve

5. Removing air from the heating system of a solid fuel boiler.

Air in the heating system can cause a number of problems: poor circulation of coolant or its absence, noise during pump operation, corrosion of radiators or heating system elements. To avoid this, it is necessary to bleed the air from the system. There are two ways to do this - the first is manually - we think about installing valves at the highest point of the system and on lifting sections and periodically pass these valves, releasing air. The second way is to install an automatic air release valve. The principle of its operation is simple - when there is no air in the system, the valve is filled with water and the float is located at the top of the valve, and, through a hinged lever, seals the air outlet valve.

When air enters the valve chamber, the water level in the valve drops, the float lowers and, through a hinged lever, opens the air release hole on the outlet valve. As air leaves the chamber, the water level rises and the valve returns to the upper position.

We have already described the design of the boiler safety group above when we talked about protection against high coolant pressure. Ideally, if you have installed a safety group, it has an automatic air release valve. Just make sure that the safety group is installed at the top of your heating system. If not, we recommend installing a separate automatic air release valve and forever solving the problem of finding air pockets in your heating system.

Solid fuel boiler piping - Automatic air release valve

I have a BAXI 24Fi boiler, it started just the other day and I immediately didn’t like its cyclic mode. It very often sets the burner on fire (3 minutes after the pump runs out). But the burner doesn’t burn for long, literally 20-40 seconds and that’s it. Perhaps the boiler power is too big for my heating system

I have a BAXI Eco3 Compact 240FI, an apartment of 85 sq. m. The first heating season, last year it worked only on hot water supply. Before connection room thermostat clocked at a similar interval. At higher water temperatures (60-70 degrees), the burner operates from 40 seconds to 1.5 minutes, then there is a set delay for turning on the burner of 30 or 150 seconds, depending on the T-off switch on the board. All this time the pump is running, since the board has a built-in run-out time when operating for heating - 3 minutes (it’s a pity that it cannot be changed). During this time, the temperature of the water decreases by 10 degrees from the set value and the cycle repeats. By setting the water temperature lower (40 degrees), I reduced the burner operating time to 30-50 seconds.
I experimented with adjusting the maximum power of the heating circuit - I did not notice any significant deviations in the burner operating time. Water temperature has a stronger effect.

Yes, it's already configured. The jumper on terminals 1 and 2 is, as it were, an “eternal request to turn on” from the thermostat. By replacing it with a smart box with a relay, you can limit the periods of burner operation by schedule during the day and week (electronic programmable thermostats) and the air temperature in the room (electronic and mechanical thermostats). It is recommended to choose a higher coolant temperature (70-75 degrees).

When working without a thermostat, I had to monitor the temperature outside
Now +10 +15 is overboard and even setting t=40 you can get heat in the rooms, plus timing and excessive gas consumption.
With a thermostat, 75 degrees is recommended. Then, during the heating period, which allows the air temperature in the room to be raised by the “thermostat delta”, the water temperature does not have time to reach 75 degrees and the boiler operates continuously all this time. So far, at above-zero temperatures outside, for me this time is 15-20 minutes, when the water heats up to 60-65 degrees with a subsequent downtime of 1.5-2 hours.
Even if it heats the water to 75 before the air warms up, the boiler will turn off and turn on again after the required 150 seconds. just me. Here the heating periods will be short, but not numerous. Since the pump is running all this time, the radiators are hot and the air temperature will quickly reach the value set in the thermostat. After which it is downtime again for 1.5-2 hours.
I think there is no need to immediately set the maximum possible temperature (85 degrees) - winter is still ahead.
And such a remark. After turning off the thermostat, the air in the room still heats up during the pump run-out (for me it is +0.1 to the set value)
With more hot water there will be some “overcomfort” and overspending
So the temperature of the coolant in the presence of a room thermostat mainly determines the heating rate to the set air temperature.

If we talk about the air temperature delta in the characteristics of thermostats, then 0.5 is quite enough. In more expensive brands It also happens to be adjustable from 0.1 degrees. So far I have not noticed the need for such precise temperature maintenance.
Much more interesting is the moment of choosing the values ​​of comfortable and economical temperatures (in terms of some brands of thermostats with two levels of set temperature, this can be “day” and “night”).
Typically, factory settings provide a difference of 2-3 degrees.
But then in the morning before waking up, it will take much more time to raise the temperature to a comfortable temperature than the heating cycle while maintaining a temperature with a delta of 0.5. Hence the increase in consumption. The same situation occurs if the heating is set up before returning from work, and during the day, in the absence of people, the apartment is heated using the economical mode.
Here, of course, you need experience and statistics in monitoring consumption.

If the thermostat holds permission for the boiler to operate (the temperature is below the set one), then the burner in the boiler burns constantly until the thermostat removes permission (when the set point is reached) or what? Couldn't it just overheat at this time?

It won't overheat. The thermostat allows, but does not force, the boiler to work. When the set coolant temperature is reached, the burner will turn off regardless of the mode on the thermostat.

Disclaimer:
I’ll say right away that I’m not an expert and I don’t know much about boilers. Therefore, everything that is written below can and should be treated with skepticism. Don’t kick me, but I’ll be glad to hear alternative points of view. I was looking for information for myself on how to optimally use a gas boiler so that it would last as long as possible and release as little heat as possible into the chimney.

It all started with the fact that I didn’t know what coolant temperature to choose. There is a selection wheel, but there is no information on this topic. not in the instructions anywhere. It was really difficult to find her. I took some notes for myself. I can't guarantee that they are correct, but they might be useful to someone. This is not a topic for the sake of holivar, I do not encourage you to buy this or that model, but I want to understand how it works and what depends on what.

Essence:
1) The efficiency of any boiler is higher, the colder water in the internal radiator. A cold radiator absorbs all the heat from the burner, releasing air at a minimum temperature to the street.

2) The only losses in efficiency that I see are only exhaust gases. Everything else remains within the walls of the house (we are only considering the case when the boiler is in a room that needs it to be heated. I no longer see why the efficiency could decrease.

3) Important. Do not confuse the efficiency fork that is written in the specifications (for example, from 88% to 90%) with what I am writing about. This plug does not relate to the coolant temperature, but only to the boiler power.

What does it mean? Many boilers can operate with high efficiency even at 40-50% of the nominal power. For example, my boiler can operate at 11 kW and 28 kW (this is regulated by pressure in gas burner). The manufacturer says that the efficiency at 11 kW will be 88%, and at 28 kW - 90%.

But the manufacturer does not indicate what water temperature should be in the boiler radiator (or I couldn’t find it). It is quite possible that when the radiator heats up to 88 degrees, the efficiency drops by 20 percent. I don’t know. It is necessary to measure heat loss from the exhaust gases. but I'm too lazy for that.

4) Why not set all boilers to the minimum coolant temperature? Because when the radiator is cold (and 30-50 degrees is already quite cold relative to the burner flame), condensation forms on it from water and compounds that are mixed in the gas. It's like cold glass in a bathroom where water collects. Just not there pure water, and also all kinds of chemicals from gas. This condensate is very harmful to most materials from which the radiator inside the boiler is made (cast iron, copper).

5) Condensation occurs in large quantities when the radiator temperature is colder than 58 degrees. This is a fairly constant value because the combustion temperature of the gas is approximately constant. And the amount of impurities and water in gas is standardized by GOSTs.

Therefore, there is a rule that the return flow to ordinary boilers should be 60 degrees or higher. Otherwise, the radiator will quickly fail. The boilers even have a special feature - when the burner is turned on, they turn off the circulation pump in order to quickly heat their radiator to the set temperature, reducing condensation on it.

4) Yes condensing boilers- their trick is that they are not afraid of condensation, on the contrary, they try to cool the combustion products as much as possible, which contributes to increased condensation (there is no miracle in such boilers, condensate in this case is simply a by-product of cooling the exhaust gases). Thus, they do not release excess heat into the pipe, using all the heat to the maximum. But even when using such boilers, if you need to heat the coolant strongly (if there are few radiators/warm floors installed in the house and you do not have enough heat), the hot radiator (at least 60 degrees) of this boiler can no longer extract all the heat from the air. And its efficiency drops almost to normal values. And condensation almost does not form, flying out into the chimney along with kilowatts of heat.

5) Low coolant temperature (characteristic that is given in the load to condensing boilers) is good for everyone - it does not destroy plastic pipes, it can be directly used in a heated floor, hot radiators do not raise dust, do not create wind in the room (air movement from hot radiators reduces comfort), it is impossible to get burned on them, they do not contribute to the decomposition of paints and varnishes near radiators (less harmful substances). By the way, it is generally forbidden to heat batteries above 85 degrees due to sanitary measures, precisely because of the reasons stated above.

But the low coolant temperature has one drawback. The efficiency of radiators (batteries in the house) strongly depends on temperature. The lower the coolant temperature, the lower the efficiency of the radiators. But this does not mean that you will pay more for gas (this efficiency has nothing to do with gas at all). But this means that more radiators/underfloor heating will need to be purchased and placed so that they can release the same amount of heat into the house at a lower operating temperature.

If at 80 degrees you need one radiator in the room, then at 30 degrees you need three of them (I took these numbers from my head).

6) In addition to condensation, there are "low temperature" boilers. This is exactly what I have. They seem to be able to live at water temperatures of 40 degrees. Condensation also forms there, but it doesn’t seem to be as strong as in conventional boilers. There are some engineering solutions, reducing its intensity (double walls of a radiator inside the boiler or some other parsley, there is very little information about this). Perhaps this is stupid marketing and works only in words? I don't know.

For myself, I decided to set it to at least 50-55 degrees so that the return would be at least about 40(just for the record, I don’t have a thermometer). For me, this is a salvation, because my heated floors were installed incorrectly (the house already had all the wiring when I bought it), and it would be completely wrong to heat them with water at 70 degrees. I would have to reassemble the manifold, add another pump... And 50-60 degrees is generally normal for me in warm floors, my screed is thick, the floor is not hot. Whether this is bad or not bad, I don’t know, but it already exists and nothing can be done about it. Although, I suspect that the efficiency still suffers a little from this, and the screed does not become stronger due to wild changes. But what can you do?

The question, of course, is how all this will affect the efficiency and radiator of the boiler. But I don’t have any information on this topic.

7) For an ordinary boiler, Apparently, it is optimal to heat the water to 80-85 degrees. Apparently, if the supply is 80, then the return will be about 60 on average in the hospital. Some even say that the efficiency is higher this way, but I don’t see any reasonable reason why the efficiency can increase with the temperature of the coolant. It seems to me that the efficiency of the boiler should fall as the temperature of the coolant increases (remember the gases that escape from the house into the chimney).

8) I already wrote why hot coolant is not welcome. And once again I will emphasize one opinion that I saw on the Internet. They say for plastic pipes the maximum reasonable temperature is 75 degrees. I am sure that the pipes will withstand 100 degrees, but high temperatures seem to lead to increased wear. I have no idea what is “wearing out” there, maybe it’s fake. But I’m still not a fan of throwing boiling water through pipes. All the reasons are stated above.

9) From all this it follows the opinion (not mine) that weather-compensated automation is almost never needed, because it regulates the temperature of the coolant not optimally for the long-term use of the boiler (or kills its efficiency). That is, if the boiler is a condensing boiler, then it is better to heat it to one temperature and increase it only if it's really cold in the house. This depends primarily on the house, insulation and the number of radiators (and last resort on the outside temperature). But it’s still better to heat a regular boiler to 70 degrees, otherwise it’s ruined. Accordingly, low temperature is somewhere around 50-55 on average. Does manual control rule? Twice during the winter you can manually increase the temperature if you feel that the radiators are no longer giving enough heat to the house.

In general, it is a pity that there is no plate from the manufacturer with the ideal design coolant for each boiler. In order to sharpen all CO at this temperature.

Once again - I’m a complete noob and I don’t pretend to be anything, I only understood the topic for a few hours. But I know for sure that there is very little information on this topic and I will be glad if this thread serves as a starting point for discussion, even if I am wrong on all points.

Hello, friends. What is the optimal operating mode for a gas boiler? There are a number of determining factors here. These are the conditions of its work, its potential, its design, etc.

The main motive for searching for a better regime is economic benefit. At the same time, the equipment must produce maximum efficiency, and consume minimal fuel.

Factors affecting boiler operation

They are:

  1. Design. The equipment may have 1 or 2 circuits. It can be mounted on a wall or on the floor.
  2. Normative and actual efficiency.
  3. Proper heating arrangement. The power of the equipment is comparable to the area that needs to be heated.
  4. Technical conditions of the boiler.
  5. Gas quality.

All these points need to be optimized so that the device produces the best efficiency,

Question about the design.

The device may have 1 or 2 circuits. The first option is complemented by an indirect heating boiler. The second one already has everything you need. And the key mode in it is ensuring hot water. When water is supplied, heating ends.

Models mounted on the wall have less power than those placed on the floor. And they can heat a maximum of 300 sq.m. If your living space is larger, you will need a floor-mounted unit.

P.2 efficiency factors.

The document for each boiler reflects the standard parameter: 92-95%. For condensation modifications it is approximately 108%. But the actual parameter is usually 9-10% lower. It decreases even more due to heat losses. Their list:

  1. Physical underburning. The reason is excess air in the apparatus when gas is burned, and the temperature of the exhaust gases. The larger they are, the more modest the efficiency of the boiler.
  2. Chemical underburning. What is important here is the volume of CO2 oxide produced when carbon is burned. Heat is lost through the walls of the apparatus.

Methods for increasing the actual efficiency of a boiler:

  1. Removing soot from pipelines.
  2. Elimination of scale from the water circuit.
  3. Limit chimney draft.
  4. Adjust the position of the blower door so that the coolant reaches its maximum temperature.
  5. Removing soot from the combustion compartment.
  6. Installation of a coaxial chimney.

P.3 Questions about heating. As already noted, the power of the device necessarily correlates with the heating area. A competent calculation is needed. The specifics of the structure and potential heat losses are taken into account. It is better to entrust the calculation to a professional.

If the house is built according to building codes, the formula works: 100 W per 1 sq.m. This results in a table like this:

Area (sq.m.)Power.
MinimumMaximumMinimumMaximum
60 200 25
200 300 25 35
300 600 35 60
600 1200 60 100

Purchase better boilers foreign production. Also in advanced versions there are many useful options that help you achieve the optimal mode. One way or another, the optimal power of the device is in the spectrum of 70-75% of the highest value.

Technical conditions. To extend the service life of the device, promptly remove soot and scale from internal parts.

The optimal operating mode of a gas boiler to save gas is achieved by eliminating clocking. That is, you need to supply gas to smallest value. The attached instructions will help with this.

There is an aspect that cannot be influenced - the quality of the gas.

Methods for setting the optimal mode

Many devices are programmed for the temperature of the coolant. When it reaches the required values, the unit turns off briefly. The user can set the temperature himself. The parameters also change depending on the weather. For example, the optimal operating mode of a gas boiler in winter is obtained at values ​​of 70-80 C. In spring and autumn - at 55 - 70 C.

IN modern models There are temperature sensors, thermostats and automatic mode settings.

Thanks to the thermostat, you can set the desired climate in the room. And the coolant will heat up and cool down with a specific intensity. At the same time, the device reacts to temperature changes in the house and outside. This is the optimal operating mode for a floor-standing gas boiler. Although with the help of such devices it is possible to optimize the mounted model. At night, the settings can be reduced by 1-2 degrees.

Thanks to these devices, gas is wasted by 20%.

If you want solid efficiency and savings from the boiler, purchase the desired model. The following are some examples.

Examples of models

  1. Baxi.

The optimal operating mode of this wall-mounted gas boiler is achieved as follows: in small apartments the indicators are set to F08 and F10. The modulation spectrum starts at 40% of highest power. And the minimum possible operating mode is 9 kW.

Many models of this company are very economical and can operate at low gas pressure. Pressure limits: 9 – 17 mbar. Suitable voltage range: 165 – 240 V.

  1. Vaillant.

Many devices of this brand work optimally under the following conditions: power - 15 kW. The feed is set at 50-60. The device works for 35 minutes, rests for 20 minutes.

  1. Ferroli.

The best conditions: 13 kW for heating, 24 kW for water heating.

  1. Mercury.

Water pressure in the network is maximum 0.1 MPa. The highest temperature indicator at the outlet section is 90 C, the nominal value of the flue gases is at least 110 C. The vacuum behind the apparatus is a maximum of 40 Pa.

  1. Navien.

Basically, these are two-circuit units. Automation works here. The mode is customizable. The room heating parameter is set. There is a pump that can reduce parameters by 4-5 degrees.

  1. Ariston.

Automatic setting of modes also works. Often people choose models with the Comfort Plus mode.

  1. Buderus.

The following values ​​are usually set on the feed: 40 - 82 C. The current parameter is usually reflected on the monitor. The most convenient summer mode is at 75 C.

Conclusion

Thanks to a gas boiler, you can conveniently adjust the climate in your home. Especially if you use innovative technology with automated modes and many useful options.

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