Another master class, I must say that it is quite detailed and no less useful from Alexander. Today we will talk about tenon joints. Straight tenon is the basis of carpentry. How to do it in artisanal conditions(and at the same time in an equipped carpentry workshop) and will tell our today's lesson.
Let's look at the basic principles of making a tenon joint using the example of two workpieces, one wide and one narrow, the thickness of all parts will be 30 mm. First, mark the width of the workpieces. Then you need to set aside the hangers, usually this is 1/3 of the material - step back 1 cm inward, make a note 
It is most convenient to mark using a carpenter's square 
If everything is simple with a narrow workpiece, then for a wide workpiece it is necessary to make a segmented tenon (for better grip). Segmented, that is, consisting of several small spines. To do this, we find the center 
we retreat 1 cm in each direction, i.e. on the shoulder, mark. 
This is what we get. The shaded parts will be highlighted. 
The depth of the groove should be half the depth of the stand, in this case it is 30 mm, but it should be 2-3 mm deeper so that the glue has room to exit. Mark the depth on the drill with electrical tape. The drill is positioned in the center of the workpiece. 
Using a drilling and additive machine - we have already considered this. (by the way, you can use a regular drilling machine). First, we drill several adjacent holes. 
Then, moving the workpiece from side to side with a recessed drill, we cut off the remaining jumpers. 
This is how the groove is made - using a primitive drilling and grooving device. Of course, it is not perfectly beautiful, and the edges are rounded, but it has precisely specified dimensions and is located exactly in the center of the workpiece. 
In a professional workshop, such a slotting machine is used. 
This is how the groove is made - using a professional drilling and grooving device, after which there is no need to round the tenons 
Let's move on to preparing the spikes themselves. Let's start with an amateur technique - sawing out a tenon on a circular saw with a carriage. 
First, we make a cut along the marking line, then, by moving the workpiece, we gradually remove excess material. 
We turn the workpiece over and repeat the manipulations on all sides. 
The result is such a neat spike. But it needs to be improved a little 
There are two ways to get the tenon into the groove. The first is to take a chisel and gouge out the rounding of the groove 
or the second option is to take a rasp and round the edges of the tenon to fit the groove 
We make wide workpieces using a professional device - a milling cutter with a wide cutter. 
We go around the thorn from all sides in the same way. Everything is done in one pass - much faster than with a carriage. 
We segment the spike with the same circular saw. 
We remove the gap by adjusting the disc offset. 
Well, the tenon and groove are made, let's move on to connecting them. It should be adhesive.
When gluing, it is necessary to lubricate the groove from the inside or the eye, and it is also necessary to lubricate the surface of the tenon.
“I do not recommend lubricating the end of the workpiece, because it still won’t stick to the surface - only the spike and the inner surface of the eyelet will hold it. There is no need to lubricate a lot, because the tenon and eyelet will swell under the influence of the water contained in the glue, thus creating conditions for a strong seam.”
Both the tenon and the eye should be lubricated.
then using a press (vayma). In the absence of one, the whole process can be carried out with a mallet.
Wipe off excess glue
We carry out the same manipulations with a wide workpiece: apply glue, connect
making money
We press it in.
Summarize:
- When making tenon joints and frame structures, it is necessary to make the stand longer, i.e. leave tails. The tail of the stand should be longer than your facade on each side by one thickness of material, this is done so that the workpiece does not separate along the fibers during pressing.
- For wide workpieces it is necessary to use a segmental tenon. The thickness of the tenon is always made according to standards - 1/3 of the thickness of the material, at least 1/4 of the thickness of the material is allowed. The shoulders are 1/3 of the thickness of the material, the gap between the tenons is 2/3 of the thickness of the material.
- In any case, the spike should be thicker. For coniferous (soft) species it is 0.2 mm thicker, for hardwoods it is 0.1 mm thicker, all this is due to wood shrinkage.
Once you've mastered carpentry skills, it's great to show off your homemade furniture to family and friends. What could be more pleasant than touching something that has been polished to perfection? razor sharp blade, smell the wood, feel its texture, and then make a clean, fresh cut!
This article covers basic carpentry techniques. How to use carpentry tools to get various shapes, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with scrap wood. Put your workshop in order and maintain it. Some craftsmen sharpen before starting a new project hand tool, clean the workshop and clean all their tools and machines.
Wood preparation and marking
Once you've decided what you'll be doing, separate your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each piece according to its future place in the product, mark the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the sections of the required length, and use a square to mark the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.
If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Use a small pencil to mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them at the same time and remember that one part should be a mirror image of the second. Use a knife to mark connections.
Curved cuts
Can be done with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. The hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood, when the cutting line goes away from the edges.
Hacksaws are equipped with rotating bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different ones should be used saw blades. For curved cuts of small radius and wood thickness less than 50 mm, use jigsaw machine or jigsaw.
Install the new file and tighten it until it rings when you click it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start cutting from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and clamp and tighten again.
Use a drill press and Forstner bits to drill large holes accurately and accurately. Mark the center of the hole, attach the corresponding drill bit and set the depth gauge. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench (this will take some time, but it will be completely worth it). If the hole is deep, lift the drill bit several times as you work to remove waste and keep overheating to a minimum. If you have to drill a lot of holes in identical parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the work table of the machine.
To drill holes for screws and installation holes for nails, you should use a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to screw in a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.
Planing by hand
Planing is a lot of fun when the blade is sharp and you have enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Don't forget to secure the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.
A face plane is good for finishing sharp edges and for cleaning up ends. Position the blade so that it cuts the finest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and avoid chipping.
Selecting grooves manually
Mark the groove using a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the tip of a knife, and transfer the workpiece to the workbench drilling machine and use a suitable size drill bit to drill out the bulk of the unwanted wood.
Remove the shavings, clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.
The groove can be selected using a cutter, and the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The router can be held in your hands and moved along the workpiece; when selecting an open groove, attach it to the work table and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using scrap wood. It is best to select a groove in stages and make several passes. After each pass, remove sawdust to avoid overheating the cutter.
Carving a tenon by hand
Mark the shoulder lines (the length of the tenon) with a square and a knife, then use a thicknesser to mark the height and width of the tenon. Remove any unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First, make cuts along the grain to the shoulder line on all four sides of the tenon. Then trim the tenon along the shoulder line across the grain. Clean the tenon with a chisel.
If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like working with machines), a table router is the ideal tool. If big size Since the workpiece does not allow you to place it on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure with reverse side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.
To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, do this. Attach the router to your workbench and install a 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10mm. Adjust the height of the cutter so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to create a 2mm deep groove. Turn off the router, raise the cutter another 2 mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove 4 mm deep.
To select a rebate with a width of 10 mm and a depth of 4 mm, proceed as follows. You will need a straight cutter that is smaller than the width of the rebate (for example, 5mm in diameter). Set the stop at a distance of 5 mm from the rear edge of the cutter, and the cutter at a height of 2 mm. Place the board against the stop and select a 5 mm wide fold. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stopper, to obtain a 10mm wide fold. Switch off the router, set the bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the fold.
Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a cutter that matches the width of the groove or a smaller size and set the depth stop. Press clamps onto the workpiece parallel to the groove wooden plank, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router reaches full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the groove, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you get the required width and depth of the groove.
Milling shaped edges
Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.
Move the stop so that it is not in the way. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece begins to press against the support roller - at this point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, it means either the cutter is dull or you were pulling the workpiece too slowly.
Milling according to template
Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, cut out the approximate shapes with a saw, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut a template from plywood with an allowance for the edges and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.
As a template, you can take an already made part and use a straight-cut cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).
This saw makes it easy to make cuts at any angle. Place the cutting blade on the frame under required angle(90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press it against the fence, and then make the cut using smooth back and forth movements.
Inspect the workpiece and decide where exactly you need to drive the nail. If this area is near the edge and there is a danger of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to first drill an installation hole using a drill bit whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable sized hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, use pliers to hold them.
Driving screws
You have a choice between mild steel screws, of stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or semicircular heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.
When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.
To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.
If you want to make round parts (chair legs, bowls, plates), you cannot do without lathe. Buy the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget allows - with adjustable chuck and a set of faceplates. Fusiform and cylindrical parts grind, securing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowl or plate - on outside spindle.
The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off cutter, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.
To cut door handle or latch, you won't need anything more than a good sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood, pressing on the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. To practice, first experiment with soft linden wood, for example.
Installing hinges
The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass overhead hinges (attached with screws with countersunk heads, screwed flush with the surface) and steel mortise hinges (fastened in sockets with steel screws with countersunk heads). In the latter case, outline the hinge flap with the point of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should fit tightly in the socket. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.
Sanding wood
To obtain smooth surfaces, numerous types of sandpaper (sandpaper) are used. The skin can be used either on its own or wrapped around a block of wood. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried and after final finishing.
For the first sanding, use regular sanding. sandpaper, for finishing - thin sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces use a cylindrical grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.
Natural wood finish
Originally the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left in its natural state, but now also includes oiling or waxing. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.
Allow to dry and sand with the finest sandpaper to remove the “ridges” (the rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat of finish is absorbed), then apply a second thin coat. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.
When finishing items that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil, such as olive oil, instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it in with a cloth.
You have a choice between mineral spirits oil paint and waterborne acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one paint or another is very small, however, after working with oil paint, brushes should be washed with white spirit, and then acrylic paint- running water.
Oil paint fumes can cause dizziness and nausea, while acrylic paint fumes can cause a dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors if possible.
Special types of wood finishes
When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. The texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface means you don't have to worry about damage from pets' claws.
The brush is moved along the fibers until there are no untreated areas left on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.
A candle flame finish helps hide the imperfections of low-quality wood. Oil varnish is applied to the painted surface with a brush. After a while it dries out and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is passed under the surface. Be sure to wait until the surface becomes sticky (it should show fingerprints) and keep the can of polish and brush away from the candle. It is better to do this work together somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get started with any serious work.
Accessories for hand router
Jig for making grooves and tenons
Using a hand router, you can make ideal grooves and tenons in connecting the sides of boxes and caskets. To do this, we recommend making a simple device for the milling table.
The advantage of using a router table is that a straight cutter makes a perfect tenon (groove) with smooth sides and a flat bottom (unlike a circular saw) and also, the cutter is one size, which reduces the number of adjustments for the height and width of the tenon (groove). Everything you need to milling table make tenon joints, this is a simple jig, which is shown in the photo below, and step by step follow our recommendations described in this article.
Conductor
The jig consists of three parts, the base of the movable slide, the main and adjustable stops.
MOVABLE SLIDE. The slides have a base made of hardboard or dense wood, 1/4? thick, as can be seen from the photo above. Fixed fixed fence with two evenly spaced slots and an adjustable fence that allows you to change the size between the cutter and the guide.
GUIDE. Guide size equal to size cutters that will be used to make the tenons (grooves) of the product. For example, if the cutter size is 12 mm, then the guide should have a square of 12 mm.
Note: Each size requires its own guide and therefore the slide has an adjustable stop.
SLOTS. Allows you to make minor adjustments when setting up the fixture. To do this, you need to make two slots in the main stop along the diameter of the bolts; they hold the adjustable stop in the desired position.
The adjustment and fine adjustment of the slide is carried out as follows:
The first thing you need to do in setting up the device is to raise it a little higher than the slide and adjust the cutter to the desired height. Then adjust the router table stop so that the cutter shank fits into the gap between the router bit and the guide ( step 1). Next, to protect the device from moving during cutting, clamp the straight edge with clamps to the table, maintain parallelism between the main support of the table and the straight edge ( step 2). Install a stop block on the main stop of the milling table that limits the linear movement of the slide ( step 3). Now let's adjust the dimensions of the tenon (groove) using an adjustable stop. Set the distance between the guide and the cutter. Once you have made the settings, perform a series of tests and check the connections of the sides of the box.
Note: To make perfect joints, the thickness of the workpiece must match the diameter of the cutter, troubleshooting tips are given in the pictures below.
Emphasis. Place a stop on the router table so that the gap between the cutter and the guide matches the size of the cutter shank.
Wish. To ensure accurate cuts, secure the ruler to the table with clamps, parallel to the main table support.
Stop Block. Position the stop block on the fence to prevent the cutter from reaching the main fence of the slide.
TROUBLESHOOTING WHEN CONNECTING GROOTS AND TENKS
Good Connection. The perfect fit in the joint has no gaps and the tenons are flush with the sides.
Short Spikes. In this case, the tenons are too short, the problem is that the cutter on the router table is set too low.
Long Thorns. The tenons are located outside the joint of the sides, this is caused by the fact that the cutter is set too high on the router table.
Gaps in Grooves. Gaps in the slots are caused by the guide being too close to the cutter.
Little Grooves. If the tenons do not fit into the grooves, then the guide is installed too far from the cutter.
Offset Sides. Misalignment may be caused by improper installation of the workpiece, guide, or stops.
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURING CONNECTIONS
In setting the distance between the tenons (grooves), the cutter shank is a convenient template for initially setting the distance between the guide and the cutter.
First and last. Start with the first and last tenon (groove) on the panel. When cutting a tenon (groove), make sure that the workpiece fits tightly to the guide and slide.
Guide and workpiece. To make the next tenon (groove), simply lift the workpiece, install the finished tenon (groove) on the guide and make another pass. Repeat this until you have made all the tenons (grooves) on the product.
Front Panels. Continue making the tenon (groove) on the opposite end of the workpiece in the manner described earlier. After the work is completed, we move on to making the side panels.
Home, Sidebar. The next step is to make a tenon (groove) in the adjacent side panels. The difference is that using the front (or back) panel as a reference, you shift the location of the tenon (groove). To do this, install the last groove (tenon) of the front panel into the guide, install the side panel close to the front panel and make the first pass.
End, Sidebar. After making the first tenon (groove), set the front (or back) panel aside. Now make the remaining tenons (grooves) as you did before. After you have made the tenons (grooves) on one side, turn the workpiece over and repeat all the operations described above.
Bottom of the Box. If you are adding a bottom to a box, you will need to cut grooves into each panel. After assembling the box (box), you need to cut the bottom-stopper to the size of the box (box) and insert the bottom-stopper into place. When the glue has dried, sand the joints with fine sandpaper.
Sled for making tenons
When you need to make a tenon on a manual router with clear, straight shoulders and absolutely smooth cheeks, then make a simple milling table for the router and a simple device for milling tenons - sled.
Simple guide slides
There are several ways to make tenons - a router, a tenoning machine, attachments on a circular saw or even a band saw. But when you need tenons with absolutely perfect shoulders and cheeks, then, as a rule, this can only be done on a milling table. Such results cannot be compared with any other manufacturing method. Unlike saw blade, only rapid rotation of the cutter can create a perfect smooth surface the cheeks of the spike and a straight line at the shoulder. Therefore, when there is a choice on which machine to make a tenon, then a tenon made on a milling table can be best choice. Another plus is that in many cases, installing and setting up milling machine equipment is faster, and sometimes a little more convenient, than setting up a tabletop carriage circular saw. When making a tenon using a hand router, you do not need a special and complex tenon-cutting device. Having installed the stop, straight router bit on the router table and adjusted its height, you are ready to start making the tenon.
Making a tenon using a hand router
Settings for making a tenon on a manual router are not required. high costs time.
First step settings, set the cutter and the height of its immersion in the workpiece. Large diameter cutters will do the job faster, but when the immersion depth is large, a cutter with a smaller diameter works better. Basically, cutters of two diameters are used in the work: 25 mm and 12 mm.
The shape of the cutter used to make tenons is shown in the photo; such a cutter creates ideal tenons.
Second step When making a tenon on a manual router, adjust the milling table, set the stop at a distance equal to the length of the tenon. The stop should provide a smooth surface to the tenon and an even edge along the entire shoulder. The stop together with the cutter immersion device on the router works well.
Third step, needed effective method to hold the workpiece tightly against the stop. Instead of using a crosscut jig, I suggest using simple guide slides, which slide along the stop (shown in the photo).
This routing jig gives you much more control and ensures that your parts will always have their sides square to the fence.
Milling tenons begins with preliminary adjustment of the height and position of the stop. The height of the cutter is set slightly below the marks of the future tenon and the stop is also not set to the entire length of the tenon. Don't try to hit the basic parameters on the first try. The idea is to leave some space, which will then help you get to the final settings.
After routing to the initial settings is completed, the next step focuses on setting the final cutter height. With the bit raised, rout the tips of the tenon on both sides. Check the fit of the tenon in the groove, and then adjust the desired cutter height. Since you are removing wood from both sides of the tenon, recheck the fit of the tenon and readjust the cutter height. Once the final tenon height and thickness have been determined, wood removal can begin toward the shoulder line. The best way To make a tenon on a hand router perfect, do the job in a few easy passes. Then turn the piece over and repeat the process on the opposite cheek. When making cuts, hold the workpiece firmly against the table and the sled. Clamping the workpiece tightly will help you get a perfectly smooth tenon and avoid distortions.
Milling the exact length of the tenon ends with making a straight line at the shoulder, and this requires fine adjustment of the stop. This adjustment ensures that the final milling of the shoulder can be done on all parts of the tenon very easily and simply. The initial setting of the fence usually leaves a small amount of wood left before the main mark. And, as with adjusting the height of the cutter, in order to approach the main mark of the shoulder, you need to make fine adjustments to the stop and check the fit of the tenon after each cut.
Slow feed will help avoid misalignment at the trailing edge. But a slow feed speed can cause the wood to burn in the hanger. It is good practice to make two passes at the final stage of making a tenon on a hand router - one to remove any remaining residue and a second, quick finishing pass. To rout the tenon on the short sides of the workpiece, follow the same procedure as routing the cheeks, working from the edge of the tenon to the shoulder. Use light pressure on the workpiece and against the fence to complete the shoulder cut.
Device for making spikes
The spikes are the most important part of the connection. Tenons are created by removing wood from one or two edges of the batten. In most cases, a tongue-and-groove connection is one of best connections. Below is the sequence of making tenons on a router. It should be noted that in such a connection, a tenon is first made, and based on the size of the finished tenon, a groove is made and then the groove is adjusted to fit the tenon. The first thing to do is to manufacture the slats with the exact final thickness and width, calculate the total length of the slats, trim the slats to the same length, make sure that the edges are accurate and have an angle of 90°. Consider the direction of the fibers on the rail; the fibers continuously directed around the frame look beautiful. To do this, cut the pieces one by one and mark each piece in sequential order.
Setting up the stud maker
Secure the auxiliary base with the router installed on it, positioning the router horizontally relative to the router table and tighten both fixing nuts of the horizontal base.
Adjust the height of the cutter using the base with the router. Loosen the clamps and slightly lift the base until the cutter is higher than the table, fix the base.
Set the tenon length. The immersion device or depth of cut with a milling cutter on a milling machine is responsible for adjusting the length of the tenon; immerse the cutter until it touches the shoulder of the tenon. Secure the position of the cutter to the router. (See photo).
So, as you remove wood on each of the four sides of the batten, the basis for forming an accurate tenon is the dimensions at the edges of the batten, only the dimensions closest to the desired ones will give good result. Any error in setting the cutter height is multiplied by two times. If you set the cutter just a little higher, your tenons will be too thin, if below - thick. The best way to get to the desired height is by sequential milling and reconfiguring the cutter height for each tenon.
The length of the cutter is equal to the length of the tenon. Use a template to set the depth and length of the tenon cut with the router bit.
Height adjustment. After installing the template, adjust the height of the cutter, which is equal to the height of the shoulder of the tenon.
First shoulder. Hold the thin edge of the slat vertical and push the slide to rout the first shoulder.
Second shoulder. Rotate the strip 90° and rout the front side.
Third and fourth shoulder. After routing the second shoulder, rout the tenon completely on the remaining two sides of the workpiece.
The spike sank lower. The lower shoulder of the tenon was cut off much more, and the upper one was cut off less, as a result the workpiece ended up below the edge of the leg.
The spike turned out to be higher. The lower shoulder is trimmed too little, and the upper one too much, resulting in the workpiece being higher than the leg.
All cuts are made correctly. The shoulders are milled at the same level and touch the leg in the same plane.
We test the manufactured studs and check the fit.
It is important that the tenon fits tightly into the groove. Well-made tenons slide smoothly and fit into the groove without clogging; they do not twist the rail into different directions. Once the tenon is fully inserted, inspect the joint to ensure a perfect fit. By pushing the tenon down, up and in different directions in the groove, again make sure that it does not move and is firmly seated.
The second important issue in fitting is to ensure that the cleat hanger fits snugly to the leg. Essentially, hangers may not be cut straight, too deep, or undercut. Anyway last step It is always a test fit of the tenon in the groove and adjustment of the joint with a chisel.
Make sure the length of the tenon matches the depth of the groove. The tenon should not be longer than the groove. In fact, ideally, it could be somewhat shorter, leaving room for excess glue during assembly (See photo).
Well-fitted tenons should fit nice and tight, with the glue serving as a lubricant during assembly but not as a gap filler.
The tenons made have square edges; they are rounded with a chisel so that the edges of the tenon are oval and fit tightly into the groove.
Cards adjust height. Use playing cards to help you adjust the height of the tenon milling.
When making tenons on a router there are five situations that you are likely to encounter. When adjusting the router, proceed from the settings, depending on the specific situation.
If the spines are too thin, this means the base of the router is raised very high above the table. Do not reconfigure and make a tenon; the groove for such a tenon will be individual. Then loosen the locking knobs and reduce the height a little, very little.
If the spikes are too thick, this means that the cutter's immersion depth is too small. Measure the thickness of the tenon and mortise using a caliper. Subtract the thickness of the groove from the tenon thickness, divide the result by 10 and round to the nearest whole number. Calculate the quantity playing cards representing that number, plus one more card. Loosen the locking knob and position the cards under the clamp as shown in the photo above. Tighten the handle.
If the edge of the workpiece is lower than the edge of the leg, carefully inspect in dry assembled form tenon and determine which side needs to be raised or lowered by routing. Another option is to reduce the width of the tenon using a band saw or hacksaw. As a rule, the top of the tenon is trimmed.
If the edge of the workpiece is higher than the edge of the leg, carefully inspect the dry assembled tenon and determine which side needs to be raised or lowered by milling. Another option is to reduce the width of the tenon using a band saw or hacksaw. As a rule, the bottom of the tenon is trimmed.
If the spike is too long, do not adjust the length of the tenon on the machine or adjust the depth of the routing bit, as these actions will change the dimensions between the legs. Another option is to carefully reduce the length of the tenon using a band saw, chisel or hacksaw.
Device for making straight tenon joints and dovetail
Tenoning devices used for milling the profile of tenon joints. The manufacture of the latter requires great precision, which is almost impossible to achieve manually. Tenoning jigs allow you to quickly and easily profile even complex joints such as dovetails.
The figure below shows an industrial sample of a tenon-cutting device for making three types of joints - a dovetail (blind and through version) and a through joint with a straight tenon. The two mating parts are installed in the fixture with a certain shift relative to each other, controlled by pins 1 And 2 , then they are processed. The exact trajectory of the cutter is determined by the shape of the groove in the template and the copying ring of the router, which slides along the edge of the template, repeating its shape.
Tenon milling device
Milling tenons
Milling tenons
Milling tenons
Device for making insert tenons
Carpentry tenons and grooves are the basis of connections. If you are interested in finding an alternative to this type of connection, you may want to consider a tenon connection, which uses a slightly different manufacturing approach. Here's how to do it. Traditional way with a mortise and tenon can be replaced in a manner such as a mortise tenon. The bottom line is that instead of a groove in one part and a mating tenon in the other part, there are grooves in two parts, and the insert tenon is a correspondingly separately processed block of wood (see photo).
This difference in connection offers several advantages. On the one hand, this method simplifies working with parts in terms of dimensions. In addition, such a connection will always be more accurate. A traditional mortise tenon requires separate operations and various devices in its manufacture. The proposed connection method suggests making all the grooves and the insert tenon using the same settings. Instead of making all the grooves in a drill press and then cleaning them with a chisel, a milling machine will be used, controlled by a simple device.
Marking the slats for the insert tenon
To ensure precise placement of paired grooves in the slats, the most important step, find the middle line of the width in the transverse and longitudinal slats. You can find such a line on each slats using a metal ruler and mark it with a pencil (step 1).
Then you need to transfer the center lines to each paired connection. Finally, transfer them to the ends of the slats (step 2).
This centerline will later be aligned with the centerline on the router jig to ensure an accurate fit to produce identical grooves (step 3).
To ensure accurate alignment of the grooves in the pieces, the most important step is to find the centerline of the width of the rail. This can be easily done on the longitudinal rail using a metal ruler.
Finally, we transfer the center line to the edges of the connected lines. These lines will be used to position the router fixture.
Making grooves using a tenon
Now, at the locations of the grooves, the router will do the work of creating grooves for the insert tenon. But for this you need to make stable base to protect the router from tipping over and to guide the cutter while cutting with a hole in the center. This is a T-shaped device and serves both of these purposes. This device is quite simple to make. It has a base with a hole in the center for a cutter and copy sleeve, plus a clamping block, which is used to secure the fixture to the workpiece. The key factor in the cleat making tool is right size holes in the base. You must consider not only the size of the bit you are using, but also the size of the guide bushing that runs around the hole. The figure below shows how to determine the size of the window based on the size of the sleeve used. In addition, there is another condition: the clamping block is positioned so that the center of the hole coincides with the center on each part of the part. Finally, mark a center line in the jig hole, which will easily help you line up the part with the jig before routing the slot.
Once the tenon maker is assembled, routing the mortises is a fairly simple task. After aligning the center lines, fix the fixture on the part (step 4).
By immersing the cutter deeper and deeper, make a groove. After making the groove, you can repeat the manufacturing process on other parts of the product (step 6).
First, align the center mark in the base hole with the center line on the longitudinal rail. Then use a clamp to firmly press the fixture onto the rail.
A router equipped with a helical cutter and guide bushing will help make the groove by making a series of passes with the cutter not deeply immersed.
Identical actions are performed at the edges of the end slats to mill the groove. Align the marks as before and clamp the fixture to the rail. After this, mill the groove to its full depth.
How to make a tenon
Once all the grooves are ready, you can turn your attention to making the tenons. It is necessary to prepare wooden slats according to the size of the grooves. Their creation requires several steps, which we will now consider. The most important aspect of the tenon is its thickness, which corresponds to the width of the mortise.
Before each cutting or planing of a tenon, check its fit in the groove. In this way you can get good connection. Once you reach the desired tenon thickness, the next step is to adjust the tenon width. There is no need to make a very tight connection. There are several reasons for this. First, it gives you some extra space in the joint for the glue to work. In addition, this makes it possible to configure the connection for perfect alignment when you finally assemble the product. Creating grooves milling machine, certainly removes the work of the chisel in making the groove. But the cutter in the groove creates oval edges.
When forming an insert tenon, it is necessary to make ovals along the edges of the tenon so that it fits freely into the groove. This is achieved with an oval cutter on a router table. After milling the four sides of the tenon, check its fit in the groove and, if necessary, make the necessary adjustments. Now all that's left is to cut the tenons to length with a miter saw.
An insert tenon is, of course, slightly different from a mortise tenon, but it also has many advantages, in particular, in projects with a large number of grooves, it eliminates a number of operations associated with fitting joints.
Device for making round tenons
Round tenons are usually made on a lathe. But if you don't have a lathe... The photo shows a simple tool for making round tenons using a hand router.
It is not difficult to make from a U-shaped blank, which is attached to a trimming device. The U-shaped device consists of a back part and two support blocks. Support blocks have large holes, drilled into them, which help to process the part on a straight cutter. The jig works best if the holes are about 1/32 inch in size.
Setting up the fixture
To set up the device, insert a workpiece into the holes in the support blocks. Next, determine the length of the tenon and install the fence behind the cutter (Fig. B).
Manufacturing round spike
How to use the device for making a tenon, see in detail in Fig. A. Lift the workpiece slightly above the cutter and make small circular movements with the workpiece to form a tenon. Then rotate the workpiece counterclockwise and move it back and forth until the tenon is completely formed. Raise the cutter a little and repeat the process until you get a tenon of the desired diameter.
Device for making tenons on long workpieces
In most cases, tenons are made on a milling table. But there are times when this is not the best option. It is difficult to form a tenon on a milling or circular table, when the length of the workpiece can be 1.5-3.0 m. This is because for an accurate cut it is difficult to hold a long workpiece in the desired position and all attempts, as a rule, end in failure. So, when you need to cut a tenon on a long piece, the device shown in the photo above will help you.
MANUFACTURING THE DEVICE
This is a simple stop made of plywood. The jig is assembled separately for each workpiece to make tenon milling more accurate.
Determining the dimensions of the device. There are points that you need to pay attention to when making a device. The key factor is the length of the tenon, on this device it is determined by the distance between the stop block and the stop.
Emphasis. Measure from the outside edge of the router bit to the edge of the router base, then add the length of the tenon. This will be the shoulder of the tenon.
USING THE DEVICE
Once the device is ready, making the tenon is not difficult. Attach the device to the location of the tenon, as shown in the photo below. Install the router and check the dimensions of the future tenon before starting milling. The best results are obtained with a spiral cutter; it cuts clean hangers onto a tenon without chipping.
So that such a connection is of high quality and lasts a long time. The appearance of the thorn is considered one of the key moments in the history of development carpentry. They say that a real master must be able to make such connections. Call them, if you like, a measure of level carpentry. Correctly and accurately fitted to the eyes, through tenons, reinforced with dowels, will be a clear indication of the quality of the product, which is unattainable when using screws or time-saving lamellas. As the name suggests, this joint consists of a tenon passing through the hole (eye) of the adjacent part, and often the tenon is made to protrude slightly on the other side. If you're ready to learn how to make these joints, try using them instead of slats.
Here's how it's done.
Determine the dimensions of the connection elements. There are two types of through bus connections (picture below). In one case, both parts have equal thickness, for example, a crossbar with a thickness of 18 mm has a tenon that fits into the eye of the post, which is also 18 mm thick.
Or the tenon fits into the eye of a part that has a large thickness, for example, the connection of an 18 mm table drawer with a 38x38 mm square leg. To connect parts of the same thickness, make tenons and lugs equal to one third of the thickness of the parts. For example, with a part thickness of 18 mm, the thickness of the studs and the width of the eyes is 6 mm.
Quick tip! Absolute precision is not needed. If your narrowest chisel is 6mm wide, mark the lugs a little wider to make them easier to strip.
If the thickness of the parts is different, the thickness of the tenon and the width of the eye are chosen, as a rule, equal to one third of the thickness of the larger part. For example, to connect an 18mm drawer to a 38mm leg, make tenons about 12mm thick.
The length of the tenon needs to be increased by about 0.5 mm if, after assembly, you are going to grind its end flush with the surface of the mating part. And if you want to decorate the protruding part of the tenon with chamfers, its length should be 6 mm greater than the width of the other part.
Start with the lugs
The cleat dimensions are easy to reduce to suit the width and length of the lugs, so make the lugs first and fit the cleats to them. Mark the eyelet on two opposite sides of the workpiece and make sure that the marked rectangles are located at the same distance from the base faces. Attach a drill into the drilling machine chuck, the diameter of which is 1.5-2.0 mm less than the width of the eye, and install the stop on the machine table. Attach the workpiece to the stop with a clamp and make through holes (photo A).
A. Overlapping holes made with a center point drill create ridges on the sides of the eye and rounded ends.
B. Glue a strip to the guide bar, the edge of which coincides with the marking line. The device helps keep the chisel vertical and prevents it from going beyond the line.
When starting to trim the eyelet, first use a narrow chisel to trim the corners. Then make a guide jig for the chisel, shown in the photo.
Pressing the plane of a chisel with a width of 25 mm or more against the jig, level the walls of the eye, cutting off the irregularities remaining from drilling (photo B) to no more than half the depth. Move the jig to the opposite edge and strip the second wall to half the depth as well. Then turn the workpiece over and do the same on the other side.
Install in sawing machine set the mortise disk to the maximum possible thickness and adjust its overhang so that the tenon is slightly thicker than required. Test the settings on scraps before processing the workpieces.
Install the longitudinal (parallel) stop at a distance from the outer edge of the disk, equal to length thorn. Secure the pad to the cross (angular) stop. Form the tenon in several passes with minimal overlap to reduce the number of cross marks on the tenon cheeks (photo C). Then place the workpiece on the edge to cut out narrow cheeks.
C. Form the tenon in a minimum number of passes to avoid leaving deep marks on the protruding part of the tenon.
D. Adjusting the thickness of the tenon to the width of the eye with a zenzubel, remove the same amount of material from both cheeks. Check the result after every couple of passes.
To fine-tune the tenon, remove an equal amount of material from both cheeks using a rectangular scrap with N^100 sandpaper glued to only one face or a small chisel (photo D). You should stop when the spike enters the eye with a slight hand force.
Assemble the joint dry and use a sharp knife to lightly mark the boundaries of the protruding part of the tenon (photo E). Separate the parts and sand or bevel all edges around the end of the chamfer at an angle of 45°, without going beyond the lines (photo F). To assemble the joint without staining the end of the tenon with glue, apply a little glue to its wide cheeks, insert the tenon into the eye and compress the joint with a clamp until it dries completely.
E. A sharp, single-sided marking knife will leave thin line exactly on the border with the edges of the eyelet.
F. Plane movements are directed from the corners to the middle to avoid chipping. Then sand the bevels and end face with 180-grit sandpaper.
The connection can then be mechanically strengthened. To do this, drill a 6mm hole, spaced 25mm from the ends of the eyelet, through the tenon. Making a through hole that goes out to the other side is possible only if you are absolutely sure that when driving in the dowel there will be no chips at the exit.
Make a chamfer on the end of a 6mm rod and drive it into the hole, as shown in the photo at the beginning of the article.
Trim off the excess and sand the surfaces smooth with 180-grit sandpaper wrapped around a hard block.
Now you will see how to make a strong and invisible connection of 100 x 100 mm pine beams.
The craftsman is going to cut a tenon that will fit 50 mm into the “receiving” block. To do this, he measures 50 mm from the end and draws lines on all the side edges of the bar.
Then he draws a midline on the longitudinal edge of the block and measures 1 cm from it in both directions. The total width of the tenon is 2 cm. In the transverse direction, measure 50 mm in both directions.
Now you can start filing the tenon. The easiest way to do this is with a hacksaw. Make cuts from the end to the previously drawn lines. Now cut off the excess material from both sides. Be very careful not to saw through the tenon itself.
Clear cut surfaces with a sharp chisel. When doing this, always hold the chisel with the chamfer towards you. Now you need to cut off 50 mm on the sides. For this, the master also uses a hacksaw.
The spike is ready. The master measures its exact length and width. Now these dimensions need to be transferred to the “receiving” block. The width of the tenon is 20 mm, the width of the groove for it should be the same.
To ensure that the tenon will sit exactly in the middle, the craftsman draws a 37.5mm line on a 75mm wide post. Then, using a 20mm drill, the craftsman drills holes exactly to the size of the protrusion.
So, four holes are drilled corresponding to the width of the tenon. Now they need to be combined and cleared with a sharp chisel, being careful not to go too deep. Once the groove is cleared, try pushing the tenon into it a little. It should fit into the groove quite easily.
Drive in the tenon and check that it fits well and sits correctly.
After this you will need some glue. It is best to use foaming polyurethane adhesive, which ensures reliable fastening of the parts. Apply glue only to the end of the tenon. Carefully push the tenon into place.
The connection is ready, the parts are firmly fastened. But you can make the connection even stronger. Make a mark on the outer middle and drill a hole for a wooden dowel.
Length through hole is 100 mm. Cut a piece of 16mm round pine batten about 120mm long, it should protrude slightly from either side of the piece. It is better to use pine rather than hardwood. Pine wood, when wet, expands slightly and reliably jams the structure. This does not happen with hardwoods. The drill bit should be the same size as the wooden dowel.
Slightly sharpen the dowel on one side and lubricate it well with polyurethane glue. Also lubricate the hole with glue. Insert a wooden dowel so that it sticks out slightly on both sides. Let the glue dry before continuing.
Now cut off the protruding end of the liner with a fine-toothed hacksaw on one side. Turn the structure over and cut off the other protruding end. The connection is ready. The junction can only be seen by the round insert. But it will not be visible after painting or applying another coating.