Homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from a boiler Homemade device for soldering polypropylene pipes

Plastic water pipe came into our everyday life long ago and for a long time. An invariable attribute of the repair of the Soviet housing stock, along with metal-plastic windows, became a water supply from polypropylene pipes.

Advantages polypropylene water pipe before steel pipes are obvious:

Cheapness and wide choose materials;
Simplicity of work on marking and assembling the most intricate and complex pipe routing options;
Environmental friendliness, resistance of the material to corrosion and salt deposits on the walls of polypropylene communications.

Those who have encountered the tedious and time-consuming procedure of installing water pipes from metal pipes, can appreciate the simple technique of joining plastic using a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

If the time has come to renovate the apartment, the problem of replacing the water supply with plastic communications, depending on the availability of desire, money and free time, can be solved:

Hiring a craftsman and a friend who has experience working with a device for soldering propylene pipes, who can help assemble the pieces marked and cut into a single whole using a soldering iron plastic pipes;
Transferring the issue of turnkey repairs to a team of repairmen without any desire to understand the intricacies of assembling and soldering plastic components;
Doing all the work yourself.

The simplicity of assembling the soldering of plastic is so captivating that it is difficult to resist the temptation and solve the problem of plumbing in no other way than to choose and buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

The amount of money spent on purchasing the tool will be less than the cost of the specialist’s services, but provided that you really understand how to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Essentially, the soldering iron for propylene parts and connecting fittings is a heating element with thermomechanical or electrical system heating control and indication. The heater has two attachments mounted on it, allowing you to simultaneously heat with a soldering iron. outer surface pipes and the inner surface of the fitting. Heating lasts on average about 5 s, the parts are connected with slight manual pressure to set and form a strong connection within 2-3 s. If parts are overheated or connected lopsidedly, some of the molten plastic may get inside the pipe, and as a result, the flow area decreases.

Important! By performing most of the soldering and assembly work yourself, you are able to personally control the quality of soldering of polypropylene pipe joints.

For innovators and DIY enthusiasts, you can assemble a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes with your own hands. The strength and durability of the soldering depends on the perfection of the soldering iron and how high-quality the polypropylene pipes are.

What is good about a DIY soldering iron?

The operating principle of the soldering iron is simple and uses the principle of adhesion of the soldered surfaces of polypropylene parts heated to the softening temperature. There is not always a need to rewire or resolder half of the wiring water supply networks in the house. Sometimes you need to work with a soldering iron to make two or three connections. In this case, a homemade, do-it-yourself mini-soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from a handy heater can help out.

For someone with experience working with electrical wiring and using plumbing skills to make a small amateur version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is a matter of two hours.

Usually, water pipes laid in channels and hidden from prying eyes by screens and decor, so you don’t have to worry about beauty and aesthetic appearance. Another thing is important - incorrect temperature adjustment and overheating of the pipe or fitting material, even under slight force, will lead to defects. In soldering, the first and main issue remains the quality of the connection of parts.

If, when working with a homemade soldering iron, you may slightly fall short of world standards of appearance, it doesn’t matter; for amateur cases, this is acceptable.

To assemble a homemade propylene pipe soldering iron you will need:

The heating element is the soleplate of a conventional electric iron, preferably in the form of a closed aluminum block with a thermostat and electric cord with fork;
soldering iron attachments for polypropylene pipes and fittings of the required size for your pipes;
nickel-plated M8 bolt-nut for attaching nozzles to the heater;
digital multimeter with external thermocouple thermometer;
a clamp or other fastening that allows you to securely fix the soldering iron on a utility surface.

In addition to temperature, the speed or power of heating the surface of the parts being joined is important. If you heat a polypropylene fitting or pipe for a long enough time, the parts will lose their shape and geometric dimensions under the influence of temperature.

Therefore, to quickly melt a surface with a diameter of 15-30 mm, a power of 700 - 900 W is required, which approximately corresponds to maximum power iron heater.

We assemble a homemade product for propylene couplings:

At a distance of 30-40 m from the nose of the aluminum sole we drill through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and using a screw and nut we connect the nozzles for the pipe and fitting to the base of the heater;
We install the iron handle on the heater sole so that it does not limit access to the attached attachments;
We connect the wiring to the contacts of the iron heater;
We turn it on and use a multimeter, a digital thermometer and a regulator on the iron to set the temperature to 265°C.

We use a clamp to fix a homemade soldering iron of polypropylene pipes, which will allow you to solder parts yourself, without an assistant; the handle can also be made to suit you for the greatest convenience and minimal risk of getting burned.

Which soldering iron is better for polypropylene pipes

It has always been believed that the best tool is a professional option, designed for long-term use and with high parameters for soldering propylene pipes. Professional soldering iron for polyethylene pipes assumes:

The use of materials for nozzles that are resistant to prolonged heating, with high thermal conductivity, and that do not stick to the heated surface of the polypropylene part; as a rule, brass or copper nozzles coated with Teflon or carbon are used;
Easy and convenient change of nozzles on the heater flange, the kit includes a set for the main pipe sizes - from 16 to 160 mm;
The metallized surface of the nozzles gives a high heating rate of polypropylene parts;
The presence of a heater power supply stabilizer and automatic temperature regulation allows you to keep the soldering iron hot for as long as desired without the risk of failure of the heating element.

Required attributes professional models soldering irons are equipped with an easily removable stand and a case for storing and carrying the device with accessories.

For example, widely known variant soldering iron for polypropylene pipes dytron or ditron - as you like. He is highly praised for his reliability and ease of use, unpretentiousness and robust construction. When soldering propylene parts time is running for seconds, you have to quickly set up, drop or even throw the gun on the stand, and this has virtually no effect on its performance. There are three models in the DYTRON line:

Power 850 W, the most popular in apartment renovation, used for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 36 mm;
Power 1200 W – for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm;
With a rod-shaped heater with a power of 650 W.

The soldering iron comes with a key for changing nozzles, which can be from 3 to 12 in a set, scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes, building level, gloves and stand. Despite all the advantages, it is worth noting one negative point - the clearly overpriced soldering iron.

Important! Such devices are designed for many hours of operation, but in any case, they require careful care. non-stick coating on the nozzles. Teflon is very sensitive to scratches and chips, so you should not use hard or metal objects.

But even specialists involved in soldering water pipes do not always strive to buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in an expensive professional version. Many of the budget models, assembled from Chinese or Turkish components, work just as well as branded models.

Let's take, for example, a typical repairman's workhorse - the Soyuz soldering iron for polypropylene pipes:

High power heater – up to 2 kW;
The kit includes six standard nozzles with a diameter from 20 to 63 mm;
In addition, the soldering iron is equipped with a hex key for changing the working tool, a stand for the device and a case.

The length of the power cord is only 130 cm, which is clearly not enough for work. But this size is typical for budget models, while professional soldering irons have a full 2.5-3.5 m. "Soyuz" is equipped with a two-mode push-button heating control system and two color indicators - green and red, the latter lights up when the heating is turned on automatically.

The soldering iron is equipped with everything necessary for successful soldering of polypropylene pipes, so it is difficult to say whether it is worth overpaying for additional accessories, as is the case with expensive models of soldering irons.

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Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes: instructions on how to use an electric soldering iron, what caliber of soldering nozzles to use, how to choose a soldering iron among manufacturers

Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes: instructions for use

A factory or even homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is an almost irreplaceable thing if you decide to replace the pipelines in your apartment yourself.

The use of soldering equipment allows you to quickly and reliably connect polypropylene pipes, ensuring the tightness of such a connection.

Working principle of a pipe soldering iron

The device that we most often call a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, from a technical point of view, is correctly called a “Apparatus for contact welding pipes with a heated tool."

Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

The operating principle of this device is quite simple:

The soldering iron is connected to the mains
Soldering iron nozzles for polypropylene pipes are installed in special sockets, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the pipes being connected
We put the pipe sections to be welded onto nozzles, which gradually heat up
Remove the pipes heated until the polypropylene begins to melt from the nozzles and join them together.

Thus, a soldering iron for soldering polypropylene pipes allows you to quickly create a reliable and hermetically sealed (though one-piece, i.e. permanent) connection of pipes.

At the same time, the cost of soldering irons and ease of operation allow you to use soldering irons for polypropylene pipes yourself, without involving outside specialists.

As you can see, a soldering iron for polypropylene is a very useful tool. And so that you do not make a mistake when choosing a soldering iron, below we provide several recommendations for selecting models.

The key parameters determining the choice of soldering machine will be:

Soldering iron power
Availability of replaceable nozzles (as well as their range)
Manufacturer country

Soldering iron power for polypropylene pipes

The first and, perhaps, key characteristic of a soldering iron is its power. The power of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes determines the maximum diameter of the pipe that the soldering iron can weld.

Moreover, the greater the power, the larger pipes you can weld with a soldering iron. For example, a cobra soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, with a power of 1.5 kW, allows you to weld polypropylene pipes. the diameter of which ranges from 20 to 50 mm, and the more powerful energy machine (1700 W) makes it possible to connect pipes up to 63 mm in diameter.

This dependence is not linear, i.e. not always high power soldering iron means that it is suitable for working with pipes large diameter.

For example, a Ditron soldering iron (model TraceWeld PROFI blue), with a “modest” power of 850 W, is capable of high-quality welding of pipes with a diameter of up to 63 mm, which other models of soldering irons whose power is significantly higher (for example, fora or already mentioned here) are not capable of Cobra).

Another aspect that is affected by the power of a soldering iron is the speed of operation - what more powerful device, the faster you can connect pipes (less time is spent on warming up).

And here you need to choose: if you need to make only a few connections, then the low-power caliber SVA-750T (750 W) is quite suitable. And if you need to solder a lot, then it is better to take a model with more power, for example Valtec 1500 W.

Quite often they say that when choosing an electric soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, its required power can be calculated by multiplying the maximum diameter of the pipe being welded by 10. This rule is partly true, but only partly - it must be used with caution.

We indicated above the reasons why it is necessary to select a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes by analyzing all the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Soldering iron attachments

When selecting a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in accordance with the specified needs, it is very important to take into account the presence of various nozzles included in the soldering iron kit. If you purchase a soldering iron equipped with various attachments, it will be much easier for you to weld polypropylene pipes of different diameters.

Another advantage (though it is more relevant for professionals who weld a large number of pipes regularly) is the possibility of parallel installation of several nozzles. This opportunity is provided, for example, by the candan soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

Teflon coated tips

When purchasing a soldering machine, also pay attention to the coating of the nozzles. The most functional are soldering nozzles with Teflon coating, as well as nozzles coated with metallized Teflon.

Such nozzles not only heat up more evenly, but also last much longer. The already mentioned soldering irons candan, dytron and others are equipped with Teflon-coated nozzles.

Equipment

In addition to the soldering iron itself and nozzles, the soldering apparatus may also include additional tools and accessories, ranging from scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes to special gloves that will protect your hands from burns when welding polypropylene pipes with your own hands: advice from the experts.

Most manufacturers pack soldering irons in special carrying cases - plastic or metal.

Manufacturer country

An important role is also played by the fact where the polypropylene pipe soldering iron you have chosen is manufactured.

And although today the “pedigree” of a soldering iron is not so important (globalization, after all), some patterns in geography are still present:

Czech soldering irons for polypropylene pipes rightfully occupy a leading place in the informal rating of these devices. Despite not the lowest cost, Czech soldering irons (such as Daytron, which has been mentioned many times today) are in steady demand. So if the quality of the instrument comes first for you, the Czech Republic has no alternatives.

Turkish soldering irons are in some way a compromise option. Turkey produces both excellent models that can outshine other Czech ones - and models of frankly low quality.
That is why, having decided to purchase a Turkish soldering iron, you need to be very careful when choosing a specific model, having read the reviews on the Internet.

Soldering iron ENERGOMASH (STURM)

Chinese soldering irons occupy a separate niche in this market. On the one hand, China was and remains China, with its constant features: democratic and quite affordable price and unpredictable quality. On the other hand, in fact, many European and domestic (if you believe the sticker) soldering irons are also produced at the production facilities of the Middle Kingdom - and quality control at such enterprises ensures the output of quite competitive products.

Such devices include the Energomash soldering iron for polypropylene pipes (it is also produced under another brand – sturm).

Well, completely different are homemade soldering irons for polypropylene, made by “traditional craftsmen” using a variety of technical solutions (most often - spirals from irons). Such devices operate unpredictably, so we will not take the liberty of recommending their use. And from the point of view of electrical safety, such homemade products are most often flawed (to put it mildly!)

In fact, modern market electrical equipment demonstrates a fairly direct relationship between “soldering iron price and quality”. Thus, if you purchase an inexpensive Chinese device, then most likely it will not last long.

But if you plan to work with pipes for quite a long time, then it is better to immediately purchase a more expensive soldering iron - polypropylene pipes will be easier to weld, and weld will be more reliable. Moreover, the range of soldering irons for polypropylene pipes, available in construction supermarkets and online stores, allows you to choose a model for almost any requirement and “for any budget.”

Guided by the above considerations, you can choose the best soldering iron for polypropylene pipes: the instructions for such a device, included in the kit or available on the manufacturer’s website, will allow you to choose optimal mode work. And literally after a couple of attempts, you will be able to efficiently connect the pipes in your apartment when replacing them!

More information

Pipes and fittings made of polypropylene can be said to be in trend today. They are used for indoor plumbing and heating wiring and networks inside houses and apartments. The popularity of this material is primarily due to the ease of working with it. Unlike metal pipes, they do not need to be bent with a pipe bender, threaded, or welded. All the labor intensity of this profession became a thing of the past with the advent of such material as polypropylene.
The main tool for working with polypropylene products is considered to be electric soldering iron or iron. In the factory kit it is equipped with sleeve attachments for soldering pipes and fittings of standard diameters. They can also be purchased separately. But there are times when, for some reason, a factory soldering iron is not available and there is no way to buy it, and of all the parts, only welding attachments are available. This is where a homemade plumbing soldering iron comes in handy.

This homemade product is one of those “blow, spit, and do the job.” You can literally assemble it on your knees from an old iron and a wooden block. With such homemade heater you will definitely save the situation and cope with soldering polypropylene pipes. And now we’ll show you how to do it.

What you need to assemble a soldering iron

An old iron with a working heating sole;
Wooden block, approximate cross-section 40x50 mm, length 40-50 cm;
Four self-tapping screws, 3x14-16 mm;
Sleeve attachments for plumbing soldering iron with clamping bolt;
Power cable with plug;
Electrical tape, 45 mm self-tapping screws.

The tools you need to have are: a drill or screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws, drills with a diameter of 6-8 mm, grinding machine or sandpaper, paint knife, pliers and hammer.

Assembling a homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

First of all, we disassemble the household iron, disconnecting the soleplate from the thermostats. We won't need the rest of the iron anymore.

Next we prepare wooden block. If necessary, it can be sawn, planed, or simply cleaned emery wheel, as the author of the homemade product did (photo).

To secure the bar, we drill several holes on the sole of the iron, in an area free from the heating element. The diameter of the drill should be less than the width of the screw head.

We insert the block adjusted to its cross-section into the groove of the sole and attach it to several screws using a screwdriver and a Phillips bit.

There are bolts at the end of the heater contact group. We drill slot holes for them on both sides of the block, and unfold the contacts with pliers to connect them.

We press the contact plates with several self-tapping screws - press washers.

Not far from the end of the sole, we drill a hole for the clamping bolt for the sleeves. Now you can attach several paired welding attachments. We place them on the clamping bolt and tighten them with a hex wrench.

All that remains is to connect the power cable to the contact group, and wrap the contact area on the handle with electrical tape.

The soldering iron is ready for use. Such a device can be used for soldering polypropylene pipes and fittings, making plumbing or heating wiring.

Conclusion

Despite the simplicity of the design, it cannot be considered completely modified. It does not have a heating thermostat with automatic protection. The ergonomics of the tool also leaves much to be desired, because such a device must stand firmly on its edge during operation. However, this homemade device serves as proof that, if desired, even a specialized instrument can be assembled from scrap parts.

Pipes and fittings made of polypropylene can be said to be in trend today. They are used for indoor plumbing and heating wiring and networks inside houses and apartments. The popularity of this material is primarily due to the ease of working with it. Unlike metal pipes, they do not need to be bent with a pipe bender, threaded, or welded. All the labor intensity of this profession became a thing of the past with the advent of such material as polypropylene.
The main tool for working with polypropylene products is an electric soldering iron or iron. In the factory kit it is equipped with sleeve attachments for soldering pipes and fittings of standard diameters. They can also be purchased separately. But there are times when, for some reason, a factory soldering iron is not available and there is no way to buy it, and of all the parts, only welding attachments are available. This is where a homemade plumbing soldering iron comes in handy.

This homemade product is one of those “blow, spit, and do the job.” You can literally assemble it on your knees from an old iron and a wooden block. With such a homemade heater you will definitely save the situation and cope with soldering polypropylene pipes. And now we’ll show you how to do it.
What you need to assemble a soldering iron

An old iron with a working heating sole;
Wooden block, approximate cross-section 40x50 mm, length 40-50 cm;
Four self-tapping screws, 3x14-16 mm;
Sleeve attachments for a plumbing soldering iron with a clamping bolt;
Power cable with plug;
Electrical tape, 45 mm self-tapping screws.

The tools you need to have are: a drill or screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws, drills with a diameter of 6-8 mm, a grinder or sandpaper, a painting knife, pliers and a hammer.
Assembling a homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes
First of all, we disassemble the household iron, disconnecting the soleplate from the thermostats. We won't need the rest of the iron anymore.

Next, prepare the wooden block. If necessary, it can be sawed, planed, or simply cleaned on an emery wheel, as the author of the homemade product did (photo).

To secure the bar, we drill several holes on the sole of the iron, in an area free from the heating element. The diameter of the drill should be less than the width of the screw head.

We insert the block adjusted to its cross-section into the groove of the sole and attach it to several screws using a screwdriver and a Phillips bit.

There are bolts at the end of the heater contact group. We drill slot holes for them on both sides of the block, and unfold the contacts with pliers to connect them.

We press the contact plates with several self-tapping screws - press washers.

Not far from the end of the sole, we drill a hole for the clamping bolt for the sleeves. Now you can attach several paired welding attachments. We place them on the clamping bolt and tighten them with a hex wrench.

All that remains is to connect the power cable to the contact group, and wrap the contact area on the handle with electrical tape.

The soldering iron is ready for use. Such a device can be used for soldering polypropylene pipes and fittings, making plumbing or heating wiring.

Conclusion
Despite the simplicity of the design, it cannot be considered completely modified. It does not have a heating thermostat with automatic protection. The ergonomics of the tool also leaves much to be desired, because such a device must stand firmly on its edge during operation. However, this homemade device serves as proof that, if desired, even a specialized instrument can be assembled from scrap parts.
Watch the video

Soldering machine power

To evenly and quickly heat a pipe with a diameter of 63 mm, greater system power is required. For domestic purposes, a device with a value that determines the amount of energy not exceeding 0.7-1 kW will be sufficient.

If the power of the iron is more than 1 kW, it becomes professional. Its cost is much higher than the price of an ordinary soldering iron.

Method one

To make a homemade soldering iron you will need:

a broken old iron that still has a heating element;
children's metal construction set;
rubber handle;
toggle switch;
asbestos cord;
duralumin;
insulating tape.

Manufacturing technology

use a grinder to cut off all unnecessary parts from the bottom of the iron;

an aluminum cover is made;
a box is assembled from the construction set; a light bulb and a rubber handle are installed in it;
a toggle switch and a soldering iron regulator are connected to the wire;

all parts are combined into one whole;
cables are soldered;
The heating element is bolted to the body, having previously placed an asbestos gasket.

Thus, after spending a little time using available material, you become the owner of a homemade soldering iron for welding PP pipes.

Method two

To make the tool you will need a pair of attachments costing 215 rubles. and a discarded, set fire iron. It takes approximately two hours to assemble.

First, the heating device is installed vertically. The fitting is placed on the heating nozzles simultaneously with the pipe. To make it possible to carry out operations on the wall, the iron needs to be slightly modernized: cut off the “sting” of the sole and slightly round it. It would be a good idea to use thermal paste.

It is known that several pipelines were welded with such a homemade apparatus. The quality of work turned out to be quite high.

After heating the iron, holding it by the handle, remove the pipe first. There is no need to remove the fitting immediately, since its thickness prevents it from melting quickly. All that remains is to hold the pipe with the iron with your hand and remove the fitting.

To connect the products, you need to apply little force until an even flash is formed around the entire perimeter of the fastener.

You need to hold the connection in this position for about 15-20 seconds until polymerization begins. Welding on the wall is simple: hold the heating device with one hand, and the pipe with the other.

Method three

We manufacture an iron equipped with a temperature controller, which will act as a special power control device assembled on a thyristor. For soldering work a voltage of 170V is supplied. Aluminum or copper plates are used to create the device. The photograph shows a part with a thickness of 0.8 mm, but the value of this value may vary upward.

Flat elements are needed so that the heater does not begin to cool the moment the pipe is put on. For operation, a heating element (1 kW) from an outdated Mechta stove is used. Since the radiator hardly heats up, it can be reduced. No spacers are required to install the thyristor and diode. The design of the iron itself can have any shape, it all depends on your imagination.

Below is power regulator circuit.

On each side of the spiral you can install aluminum spacers in the form of round pancakes. A handle with a regulator and a fixed toggle switch is attached to the body. In other words, you can do tuning.

The principle of all devices is always the same: to solder PP pipes, you need to maintain a certain temperature.

How to choose nozzles

When selecting heating nozzles, it is necessary to take into account the diameter of the pipes being connected and other important points:

strength;
how well the shape is retained after temperature changes;
thermal conductivity.

Almost all welding machines are suitable for various attachments. This is very convenient when you need to install a complex highway.

Each wearable element has two ends. On one, the outer side of the part is heated, on the other, its inner part. All nozzles are coated with Teflon, which protects the surface from the adhesion of molten material. The dimensions of the parts are in the range of 2-6 cm, which corresponds to the common diameters of cylindrical products.

Normal temperature for soldering

For durable welding of structures, the soldering temperature of polypropylene pipes should not exceed 260 °C. Otherwise it will lead to loss of stability plastic base, as a result of which the pipe simply cannot connect to the fitting. Moreover, the heated connecting element will begin to stick to all the parts surrounding it. However, a lower temperature is also not suitable for soldering.

It is important to remember that the viscosity and plasticity of the polypropylene structure must have certain values, otherwise diffusion processes will not begin and the connection will lose its reliability. The service life of such pipelines will be minimal. You will have to forget about the 50-year warranty. It is better to look at the table at what temperature to connect the products.

Pipe soldering time

If you correctly comply with the technology requirements for the duration of the process of connecting structures using special tool, you can get a fairly tight joint. Polypropylene will not begin to spread after overheating. Heating time depends on certain parameters. The main ones are:

pipe section;
welding belt seam width;
ambient temperature.

Below is a special table that shows the recommended soldering time for PP products, taking into account all the values mentioned above:

Socket welding of polypropylene pipes

The main method of installing plastic when you need to connect small cylindrical products different sections, the use of a bell is considered. When welding a PP structure, additional parts must be used:

corners;
tees;
bends.

They are all made from the same material from which the pipes were made. Application additional elements to create a high-quality connection is not considered a disadvantage of this method. The parts in question, in addition to the connecting function, help change the direction of the pipeline.

This process consists of several operations:

the mating surfaces are melted: the outer wall of the cylindrical product with the inner part of the fitting;
special heating parts are used;
The assembled elements are cooled.

According to professionals, socket joints are considered much more reliable than butt welding. Due to the fact that when combined, the pipe enters the fitting with force, high strength is created. In this case, alignment does not require the use of a special tool. Even a beginner can combine cylindrical structures in this way.

Socket welding machine

Devices designed for connecting PP products into sockets are called soldering irons or irons. The main element of such a device was the heating head. All replacement parts are attached to it:

couplings;
dorns.

The first elements are designed to heat the outer surface of the pipes, the second - the inner part of the fittings. The shape of the heater in most soldering irons remains a triangular plate. Devices of other designs can be found on sale.

The size of the nozzles depends on the dimensions of the flat part. In other words, a pipe section is selected that will be freely soldered. In addition, you need to take care of the right amount heating couples for simultaneous installation. To work with a large plate you will need a powerful unit.

Additional parts (couplings, mandrels) must be secured so that their supporting surface tightly touches the plate.

With good contact will be achieved desired temperature(260 °C). In this case, the power of the soldering iron does not matter much.

Today, devices are produced equipped with a heating head in the form of a rod. Their main advantage can be called compactness. On technical specifications The shape of the head does not affect it.

For high-quality operation of the iron, the accuracy of the functioning of the temperature sensor, which supports required temperature. If its fluctuations become minimal, this indicates a high quality soldering iron.

The most advanced today are electronic thermostats. These thermistors are capable of displaying an accurate temperature value even at work surface couplings.

The use of such parts makes it possible to reduce the temperature inertia of the iron. As a result, the true readings of the heating head will be displayed on the device scale.

Bimetallic relays work more roughly, as well as capillary thermostats, whose values are inaccurate. If compared with the data from thermistors, the discrepancies will be quite large. Whatever the thermostat, when the device reaches operating mode (judging by the indicator data), you must wait a few minutes. During this time, the temperature of the nozzles will be compared with the one shown by the device.

Now you can start welding. Manufacturers also produce soldering irons that have two heating elements of different power. Each part is equipped with a separate switch.

These products are capable of independently achieving the desired temperature regime. The master himself selects the required power.

The second part becomes a spare in case the first one fails.

The device provides the ability to simultaneously turn on both heaters in order to quickly achieve operating mode.

The equipment can be equipped with auxiliary tools, including:

chamfer;
calibrator;
trimmer;
pipe cutting scissors.

In some kits you can even find a special cleaning liquid. However, not all of the listed parts are included in the basic package. Often they have to be purchased separately. It is important that welding machine had everything in the set necessary tools for working with any pipe diameters and materials.

Technological process of socket welding

The outer diameter of a cylindrical product is always slightly larger than the nominal cross-section. The fitting, on the contrary, inner diameter less than the nominal cross-section of the pipeline.

Take, for example, a 20 mm pipe. True Size its outer diameter will be in the range of 20.3-20.5 mm. A fitting designed to work with a 20 mm product will have an internal cross-section of 19.5-19.7 mm.

Moreover, the middle part of the coupling surface will exactly correspond to the nominal diameter. For a conical plane, 5 degrees are taken.

It becomes clear that if the fittings are not heated, they will not be able to be connected to the coupling.

When the pipe is combined with a hot coupling, melting of the outer part occurs. All excess is squeezed out to the top, creating a kind of roller. Next, the inner layers are heated. They begin to compress, and the pipe is able to get into the hot sleeve. A similar effect can be achieved when the fastener element is connected to a hot mandrel.

When the pipe is combined with the fitting, it is elastically compressed, and the connecting element begins to stretch. Heated surfaces are compressed, displacing air. The result is uniform mixing of the molten material.

General technological process Connecting PP pipes into a socket has several sequential operations:

cutting of products;
preparatory activities;
installation of a welding machine;
achieving operating mode;
warming up parts;
assembly;
line cooling.

Manually possible without special effort connect the pipe to a heated tool if welding small details, the cross section of which is in the range of 40-50 mm. To combine cylindrical structures with a diameter exceeding 50 mm, you must use a special centralizer designed for socket welding.

Since soldering polypropylene pipes is not particularly difficult, the work can be done alone.

To cut cylindrical products, special scissors are used that do not allow the pipe walls to wrinkle.

Before starting to solder polypropylene products, the surfaces of the parts are thoroughly cleaned and degreased. Reinforced structures undergo special preparation. Workers installing such products must remember this.

Composite pipes made of PP, which are reinforced with aluminum, are characterized by low thermal expansion. Therefore, a heating system made from such products does not require the installation of additional temperature compensators. Only in such products reinforced with aluminum is oxygen diffusion possible. After air enters the system, the water is actively saturated with oxygen. As a result, the process of cavitation of valves, as well as other parts of the structure from cylindrical structures, begins.

In the absence of a reinforcing layer, there is no need to carry out additional special preparation.

Technological map for socket welding of polyethylene pipes

How to solder reinforced polypropylene pipes

In this case, contact of aluminum with liquid is strictly prohibited. This alloy begins to deteriorate, and buying new products is unprofitable. The appearance of small internal distortions in the joints is difficult to notice with the naked eye, however, these areas are weak point the entire system. Here it is possible for water to get on the metal surface.

To prevent this, the reinforced layer is carefully cleaned. Such an operation is mandatory if the surface of the pipes is wrapped in foil.

Used to remove metal sheet special device- the so-called shaver. It has to be purchased separately.

The end is inserted into the device, similar to sharpening a pencil, and they begin to turn.

When working, do not forget about cleaning the aluminum layer. Welding will occur without this procedure, but the reliability of the resulting connection will be quite low.

You can get rid of this human factor by installing fiberglass-reinforced pipes.

If the aluminum reinforcing layer is located in the center of the wall, the surface is trimmed using a special tool. It helps remove the edges of aluminum that cover the end of the pipe. If such an operation is not carried out, water can get into the center of the wall, moving along microcracks in the reinforcing layer, which will inevitably lead to swelling.

In the photograph you can see the soldered connections of the cuts: the incorrect execution in the picture without trimming and the correct one - with trimming.

For achievement best result special couplings are used. They seem to “brick up” the ends of the reinforcing layer, which helps to avoid contact of the metal with the liquid.

Some manufacturers give their own recommendations on how to prepare pipes before welding. Even if there is no reinforcing layer, it is necessary to calibrate the outer diameter and then remove the chamfer.

The sizing operation removes the ellipse of the pipe, making it completely round. Chamfered facilitates the work of connecting to the coupling. Unfortunately, when PP pipes are soldered independently, these operations are completely ignored.

How to prepare a soldering iron for use

First, the welding machine must be firmly secured. When heating begins, the parts are subjected to pressure, which is transferred to the soldering iron. To make it more convenient to work, it is important to ensure that the device remains stationary.

A heating couple is placed on the instrument. Next, the desired heating temperature is set and voltage is applied. When PP pipes are socket welded, the heating temperature should be within 260±10 °C, which exceeds the values at which polypropylene becomes viscous and fluid.

In this way, the top layer of the pipe together with the fitting quickly melts. As a result, the part can be easily removed without heating the entire wall thickness. At a different temperature, when the elements become soft, the connection will not be possible.

We put the parts to warm up

When the welding machine reaches operating mode, the light will light up. The pipe is inserted into the coupling, and the fitting is inserted into the mandrel. If it is quite difficult to carry out such work at the same time, a heavy connecting element is installed first.

Welding parts necessarily have a small allowance, which begins to squeeze out during their installation. This creates a ring-shaped roller (burr). To move such a ring, you need to make some effort, but this should be done smoothly and slowly so that the burr takes on the correct shape. A fitting that fits loosely onto the mandrel and does not form an annular bead is considered defective.

When installing the part, be sure to monitor the installation depth. As soon as the element rests against the top of the mandrel, the pressure must be stopped, otherwise the end of the pipe can be damaged and the fitting stop can be dented. To control the depth of immersion of the part into the coupling, a corresponding mark is made at a certain distance from the end. However, this procedure is not necessary since the fitting is basically inserted into the mandrel until it touches the stop.

After the parts have been installed in the apparatus coupling and its mandrel, you need to wait a few seconds until the surfaces are well melted. It is important to determine the heating duration correctly. This time should be enough to obtain a viscous and fluid state of polypropylene.

If the heating period is too long, the parts will become very soft. Manufacturers plastic pipes We have developed special tables that indicate the heating time for a certain brand of polypropylene. In this case, the wall thickness and cross-section of the pipe are also taken into account.

When fittings are combined with cylindrical products, the angle of rotation of the parts should not exceed 5 degrees. If the joint is made correctly, the flash will have the same thickness on all sides.

Cooling the connection

If it is necessary to correct the work performed, the technology allows this to be done within a few seconds. The parts should not be subjected to any pressure until the material has completely hardened, which lasts approximately 2-4 minutes.

Approximate parameters for the duration of welding operations can be viewed in a special table. More exact values indicated by manufacturers of fittings and PP products.

When soldering PP products end-to-end, the ends of the parts are heated with a hot tool until they melt. Then the elements are pressed with force until the seam cools. This technology is distinguished by its simplicity.

In this case there is no need to use additional accessories. If everything is done correctly, the result is a fairly reliable seam, not inferior to the strength of the pipe. The technological operation is performed in a certain sequence:

For all its simplicity, butt welding only seems so accessible. In practice, this requires solving several problems, which is almost impossible to do in everyday conditions.

The pipes must align exactly along their axis, with only a 10% deviation from the wall thickness allowed. Pressure on the parts pressing cylindrical products to the plane of the heating mirror when exposed to high temperature should only be applied certain time. This is the only way it can happen quality connection. When performing trimming, it is necessary that the end has perfect perpendicularity.

The conditions listed above are quite difficult to follow without an additional device - a special centralizer. It is equipped with an electric drive that creates a certain compression force. In addition, this device is equipped with a trimmer.

In other words, to carry out butt welding of small-diameter polypropylene pipes, you will need a larger amount of special equipment compared to the previous joining method. Considering the fact that when socket welding, a better joint is obtained due to the locking connection, home craftsmen prefer to use this particular method of combining pipes.

Butt welding of PP products is mainly used in production, when it is necessary to connect structures of large cross-section when installing a straight section of an engineering structure made of cylindrical products.

Wonderful material - polypropylene!
From it I make various homemade products for yourself and for your friends.
Recently they asked me to make a small homemade project, or rather a stand. In total, it was necessary to solder six fittings and a couple of meters of pipe.
But here’s the problem: I just lent my soldering iron to friends, and I didn’t ask for it back so quickly.

I started thinking about what else I could use to solder polypropylene. I know they are soldering gas burner, but I don’t have it.

Materials and tools

But I have an old “bucket” soldering iron, which I haven’t needed for a long time. So I decided to make something out of it.

I needed a few more details.

Aluminum wire and plate;

Textolite sheet;

Thermostat and iron indicator lamp;

Ceramic insulators;

Thermal paste;

Thermal tape;

Nozzle for welding polypropylene pipes (25mm);

New electric plug;

Various bolts and nuts.

Making a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

Two blanks were made from an aluminum plate: a substrate for a thermostat and a holder for a polypropylene nozzle.

The legs and parts of the body for the thermostat are made of PCB.

I connected an indicator light to the thermostat terminals. And connected the insulators using thermal tape.

I connected the top and bottom of the case with screws and nuts through insulators. The lower part of the body does not touch the boiler tubes.

To connect the thermostat in series, a break was made in the power cable. I soldered and insulated the wires with electrical tape along with the kettle handle.

I made the legs from aluminum with insulators from PCB plates at the end.

The 25 mm nozzle fits perfectly inside the boiler spiral. A U-shaped aluminum plate is already placed on top of the nozzle. The connection points are coated with thermal paste.

For soldering I needed a 20 mm nozzle. I connected it homemade screw made from an 8 mm bolt.

Al was also wound on top as an additional radiator. larger diameter wire.

Testing a homemade soldering iron

During the first test, one drawback was revealed, not counting the smoke and smell from the burning of the new “device” - not quite convenient work indicator. The light is on when the soldering iron is turned off and off when it is running. But this is not scary, it’s just a matter of habit. Perhaps I will upgrade it in the future.

Soldering pipes with a homemade soldering iron

The thermostat was set to low. Heating occurs quickly. I didn’t notice any difference in the quality of soldering, since the nozzle itself remained the same, only the heating element changed.

So I managed to make a couple of welding joints with my experimental soldering iron.