The problem of heating country houses and country houses is associated with the lack of a central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already become disillusioned with metal potbelly stoves, but a small brick stove - built with their own hands - gives comfort and warmth, which cannot but rejoice.
Brick stoves for country houses
Advantages
In the last two or three decades, modern metal stoves have taken an undisputed monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:
- Comparatively cheap compared to;
- Easy to assemble and install;
- Short deadlines for installation of the heating device at the place of final operation;
- High efficiency and firewood savings declared by the manufacturer;
- The apparent complexity of the structure brick oven and difficulties associated with finding a worthy specialist in this field, fear self-construction such a monumental object;
- Absence of necessity complex work with the roof when installing a chimney pipe;
- Relative compactness, which is important for country house;
- Manufacturers' advertising campaign metal furnaces, asserting their undeniable advantages.
However, once the owner of a metal device once finds himself in a room equipped with a stone stove, his views change radically.
It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such a stove is incomparably more comfortable and pleasant. The room is easy to breathe, there is a pleasant smell, special atmosphere and comfort.
The food cooked in a stone oven is also different. Special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the oven effect give it a unique taste and aroma.
In addition, there is a lot of data on some of the healing properties of thermal radiation emanating from warm clay heated to 70 - 75 ° C. Let's not go into the jungle of physics and biology, let's note the fact itself.
So, the advantages of a brick kiln, collected in a single list:
- Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to heat such a stove once, and it will continue to radiate heat into the room for a long time. Even in very coldy the number of fireboxes does not exceed two per day;
- The oven does not overheat outside, and it is impossible to get burned on it, which is extremely important for families with small children;
- The oven does not dry the air the way its metal counterparts do;
- Thermal radiation is much softer, not as aggressive and heavy as from steel and cast iron surfaces;
- Firewood consumption is less (a controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
- Incomparably longer service life;
- The smallest brick stove creates more coziness and comfort than the largest metal stove;
- Easily heats large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, warm water will always be;
- You can bake in the oven and firebox a large number of bread and other flour products, as well as prepare porridge and other dishes;
- Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, creating an inexplicable comfort and special ambiance in the room.
Advice! Any wood-burning heating device is a potential source of danger, as it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, you should not take on complex large ovens, but DIY small brick oven- a very real option.
Naturally, nothing is ideal or absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating devices.
Flaws
Since we have listed the advantages of brick stoves, let's be fair and remember the disadvantages. We do not conduct advertising campaign, so we are not afraid of objective assessments.
So, among the disadvantages of stone stoves, the following features can be listed:
- A very labor-intensive construction, especially for a person who has no experience in the construction of such products;
- This is quite a costly undertaking, especially if you hire an experienced stove maker; the price of these guys’ efforts and skills is definitely high;
- There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and remodeling a stone monolithic structure, as you understand, is not the easiest task;
- The danger of operating a faulty or improperly constructed stove is associated with carbon monoxide poisoning, which can lead to very dire consequences;
- Requires more space in the house than its metal counterpart, although today everything appears more projects small stoves that practically eliminate this disadvantage;
- High inertia is associated with a fairly long warm-up and kindling, so it may take several hours to heat the room well.
Advice! If you use your dacha for rare raids of a day or two in the warm season, and also in the cold season, then there is no point in starting the construction of a brick oven, since warming up will take three hours, and in the meantime you will be packing back. A brick oven is needed by people who love country holiday and allow themselves to spend long winter weeks at the dacha.
This is where the question of the purpose of the stove arises. Obviously, stoves come in different designs, sizes, and functions.
Purpose of furnaces
Another important point- this is the correct choice of configuration, design and purpose of the stove. Since we are talking about a dacha, we should proceed from the requirements of temporary suburban housing.
In general, there are four main types of stoves:
- Heating;
- Cooking;
- Baths;
- Mixed.
Strictly speaking, sauna stoves can be classified as a specialized subtype of heating devices. But we will not delve into the intricacies of classification, since this activity is, in general, useless.
Let's just say that for a dacha I would like to have a mixed type - something like, since it is irrational to arrange a separate heater and stove from the point of view of saving space.
Therefore, we can voice the requirements for a country brick stove based on all of the above:
- Simplicity of design so that you can master the construction with your own hands;
- Compact size, this is a dacha, not a castle or residence;
- Multifunctionality, that is, an oven mixed type, with which you can cook food, heat water and warm up the house.
Construction of a country stove made of bricks
We will need clay-sand mortar, building brick (double sand-lime brick M 150 will not work, we need clay), trowel, bucket, mixing trough, plumb line, level, asbestos cord, fireclay brick, doors, valves and other oven fittings, galvanized steel wire, hammer with pick, grinder with disc for concrete.
The oven will take up 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without a foundation. If your floor is weak, then it is better to make a screed under the masonry.
So, laying a small country stove step by step:
- On the place chosen for the stove we place roofing felt or glassine measuring 530x780 mm for waterproofing;
- Pour sand one centimeter thick on top and level it;
- According to scheme No. 1 (the figure at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks without fastening them together, and level it using a level;
- We apply thin layer clay solution. We take the blower door, wrap it with a double layer of asbestos cord and secure it with twisted wire.
- Lay out the second row of bricks.
- We take fireclay bricks and lay out the third row. After its formation, we install the grate. We maintain gaps for thermal expansion of materials of up to 1 cm.
- Using a brick placed on an edge, we lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney duct we make supports for the internal partition. We place the “kick-out bricks” of the rear wall without clay with a slight protrusion outward.
- We install the combustion door, pre-wrapped with asbestos. We fasten it with twisted wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks: we put one on the back of the butt, the other on it and the door on top.
- We lay out the fifth row flat along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. We wipe down the chimney walls with a wet rag.
- We lay the seventh row flat from three-fours (we cut off 3/4 of the whole brick with a grinder) to connect with the eighth row. The back wall is on the edge again.
- In the eighth row, we close the firebox door with two bricks above it. We install a beveled brick above the firebox to center the flame under the burner.
- We place the ninth row offset back (slightly) to keep the door open. Before laying, we lay out wet asbestos cord to seal the joints of the brick and the hob.
- In the tenth row we begin the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand backwards. We will make an attached pipe, so as not to displace the center of gravity of the structure, or a mounted one made of light iron.
- In the eleventh row we lay a valve, seal it with an asbestos cord coated with clay.
- Next comes chimney in a quadrangle, which connects to a light metal pipe.
- Now we take out the knockout bricks and clean the lower part of the chimney from debris.
- We close the gap between the first row of bricks and the floor with a metal L-shaped sleeve and nail the baseboard.
- We whitewash the stove or cover it with stove varnish, seal all the joints between the metal and the brick. Metal parts can be painted with black fireproof paint.
- We make a test fire with paper and small branches, then give it 2 weeks to dry.
As you can see, all the manipulations are not so difficult to do on your own. Material and labor costs are relatively small, and the construction does not take up much space.
At the same time, we received a heating and cooking device that will perfectly heat a small country house, will give your cooking a unique taste and aroma of smoke, create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.
Advice! If there is an opportunity to invite a person more or less experienced in the stove business, at least as a consultant, be sure to take advantage of it, since building stoves from a book is quite difficult, it’s better to see it once.
Conclusion
Brick stoves are considered bulky, expensive and difficult to build. However, it is easy to see from specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and you can build an inexpensive, compact country stove from brick, and do it yourself.
In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.
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To make your garden house warm and cozy not only in summer, but also in the cold season, we will analyze the construction of a brick oven. A stove in a garden house will be a reliable source of heat, and the interior of the house will sparkle with new colors if it is tastefully decorated.
Which stove is suitable for a garden house?
First we need to decide what function the home will perform for garden house:
- If you visit the dacha only in summer time, and it is only needed for cooking, a hob type stove is suitable for you. Its design does not provide heating. The combustion chamber, equipped with a chimney and an ash pan, is lined or made of brick, and a metal plate lies on top.
- used by summer residents when they simply need heating, and have an electric stove for cooking. The design of such a stove is simple; it consists of a combustion chamber, an ash pan where ash is collected and a chimney. These also include fireplace stoves, with the help of which dacha owners try not only to heat their living spaces, but also to create country comfort. The efficiency of heat transfer of such structures depends on the thickness and origin of the material and the method of laying. Laying one brick allows you to heat the furnace walls up to 600 degrees; those laid out according to this pattern are called Dutch ovens. Stoves can have different shapes, it all depends on the area of the room, the interior and the desires of the owners.
- In our country, the most popular is its design, which is more complex and consists of a combustion chamber, a chimney, an ash pan, a hob and oven. To build such a stove you need a lot of space, but thanks to it, the house will be warmer, and a delicious dinner, simmered on the stove by a skillful housewife, is guaranteed. Such a stove has many accessories; it can be equipped with a drying chamber, a stove bench, and a tank for heating water can be placed in the structure. This stove option is the most multifunctional.
Choosing the optimal location
The location of the stove for a garden house must be approached with the utmost seriousness, since not only effective heat transfer, but also your safety from fire depends on it. Of course, ideally in the old days, and even now, the place where the stove will stand was planned before the construction of the house began.
Here are the basic requirements for determining a place for the stove:
- The room where you plan to install a wood-burning stove must be at least 16 sq.m.
- The oven must be installed on reliable foundation, which means there should be no floor beams under it. The chimney should exit in a place where there are no ceilings.
- Construction near the outer wall is not advisable, because precious heat will be given to the street. Therefore, it is better to locate it in the center of the house; the chimney will exit in the area of the ridge, and the height of the pipe will be smaller. For wooden houses Central placement is recommended for fire safety reasons.
Now let's talk about the features of choosing a place for the stove. The best option to ensure good heat transfer is to place the stove so that all walls can come into contact with the air inside the home. The rooms should not be large, then you cannot do without additional heat sources.
Therefore, ideally, it should be placed in the opening of the partition between the rooms, and the firebox would go out in the kitchen or hallway area. On the one hand, the kitchen also becomes warm with the ability to cook, and on the other hand, the living spaces are freed from garbage.
When installing a multifunctional stove in large rooms, it should again be placed in the center of the room. The stove turns into a place of concentration of comfort that gives a home. It turns out something similar to a studio apartment, with an open layout, where the stove becomes a space divider.
DIY baby oven
In our article on the site, we are building a baby stove, which will not take up much space, but will be no less effective. It will create unique comfort in your house and bring warmth on cold evenings.
Of course, it is best to build a stove for a garden house with your own hands from brick; it is not so expensive in terms of costs and is much cheaper than ready-made devices. The baby oven measures only 51*64 at the base, and the depth is 50cm. It will not take up much space in the garden house or summer kitchen. You can heat with wood, coal, peat, briquettes.
Materials and tools
Materials required for masonry:
- fireproof (fireclay bricks) - 40 pieces.
- red building brick M150 – 220 pieces.
- mortar for brickwork (clay, sand or ready-made).
- grate.
- roofing steel for pre-furnace sheet (size 50*70 cm).
- steel strip with parameters 25*4 - 350mm.
- slate sheet 510*300 mm.
- chimney channel valves – 2 pieces.
- firebox door (cast iron).
- 3 cleaning doors.
- blower door.
- oven (320*380*420 mm).
- metal stove measuring 380*350 mm (one burner).
- steel wire.
Required tools:
- pick for cutting bricks.
- broom for removing debris from bricks.
- level.
- shovel
- marker.
- goniometer.
- rasp for grinding in lumps.
- spatula, rule.
- Master OK.
- roulette.
- construction plumb line for checking the vertical of the walls.
Order and drawing
Stove diagram for a garden house with stove and oven:
The installation of brick stoves in a garden house is not complicated, but the skills of a craftsman must be present during construction. The design even includes baby stoves kitchen stove and an oven, so it can be used not only for heating, but also for cooking.
Summer residents who have this stove say that a kettle can be boiled in a couple of minutes. The small dimensions were due to the vertical arrangement of all components. The chimney was laid in one brick, and the channels through which gases pass were placed behind the heating and cooking chamber. They then fall into the lying down chimney, go around the oven and end up in the chimney. 
Ordering a stove for a garden house:
Description of the masonry
- The beginning (first row) of laying the furnace begins without mortar.
- After the second row, the installation of the blower door begins, it is secured to the wire, after which it will be covered with brick during the process.
- The firebox is formed from the third row.
- A grate is placed in the fifth row without mortar.
- The firebox door is installed and secured with wire on the sixth row.
- On the ninth row, the firebox door is closed from above, and the wire is embedded in the seams.
- The hob is placed in its place on the eleventh row.
- Next, the cooking chamber is displayed from rows 12 to 16.
- Next begins the laying of the chimney
- The diagram describes in some detail and clearly the further steps, this is the installation of the oven and valves.
To protect ceramic bricks from exposure high temperatures When carrying out the lining, fireclay bricks are laid in a separate row. You need to remember that you cannot bandage different types bricks, this can lead to cracks and ineffective construction.
Conclusion
Laying a brick stove for a garden house with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is still doable. If you approach this with enthusiasm and put your heart into it, the result will be positive. You will be able to build a real work of art in your house, which will delight you and your household not only with beauty, but also with warmth and comfort.
It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction involves the construction of a foundation.
The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.
This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of the rise of heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.
What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?
Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.
You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have it on hand building level for even laying, since each row must have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:
- sand;
- clay;
- red solid brick;
- roofing felt;
- grate;
- pipe;
- tree;
- gravel;
- cement.
Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.
Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.
The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.
If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of mortar at once, then if there is no need to use it, it loses its beneficial properties, so the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.
For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to do a preliminary placement of bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.
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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven
Figure 3. Types of brickwork.
A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. Pouring the foundation begins with preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, which can be about 1 meter.
You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken bricks or stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create removable formwork, specially prepared boards nailed together are used. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.
After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.
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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly
Figure 4. Chimney laying.
Tips for laying a brick stove.
The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:
- Construction of the foundation slab.
- Furnace device.
- Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
- Grate arrangement.
- Fitting bricks.
- Combustion door device.
Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in a stove without it resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed is usually a certain space on the front outer wall of the oven, equipped with a hole for storing equipment.
When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the back wall of the furnace. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.
The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Secure the combustion door with three layers of galvanized wire. Using high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.
Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of masonry of brick corners and walls future design ovens. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.
A stove in a country house solves several problems at once. Firstly, it is easy to maintain comfortable temperature indoors, secondly, it will allow you not to depend on power supply and prepare food in any conditions. But if you want to cook food on fresh air, they often resort to building or purchasing a special furnace. Do-it-yourself garden stove - not so much complex design, so, listening to advice experienced stove makers, anyone can build it.
Types of stoves for the garden
There are several classification methods, but in general all stoves can be divided into 2 groups:
- brick kilns;
- metal.
In turn, in each of these groups several subspecies can be distinguished.
So, among metal furnaces the following stand out:
- simple potbelly stoves, a small garden potbelly stove is suitable for heating small room, as well as heating food;
Note!
Traditional potbelly stoves are made from sheet metal, so they heat up quickly and cool down just as quickly.
Therefore, for long-term heating large premises unsuitable.
- purchased stoves long burning – this option is distinguished by separation internal space into 2 zones, in one the fuel burns (more likely not even combustion, but smoldering), and in the second the resulting gases burn out. Purchased options are often equipped hobs, so this is a good choice for a dacha, especially if the price of the stove is important, after all, its cost is less than the construction of a traditional Russian stove;
Note!
With one load of fuel, such “long-lasting” stoves can operate for several hours, so from the point of view of fuel economy, this is one of the best options.
As for, it all depends on the construction budget, and the design can be anything. You can build either a simple barbecue on the street or a real Russian oven, exactly the same as those that were used 100 years ago.
Quite often, do-it-yourself brick garden stoves are built with several fireboxes at once. In this case, they can combine a Russian stove + barbecue + hob, and have a sink and cutting surface on the side. If such a structure is being built in a house, then you can install a small fireplace to admire the open flame.
About the location of the stove
If the stove is not located in the house, but directly on garden plot, then you need to adhere to the following recommendations when choosing a location:
- There should be no flammable objects nearby;
- the prevailing wind direction must be taken into account. It is unlikely that the family will be happy if all the smoke is blown into the house or into the center of the site;
- Since garden stoves are used for cooking, it is desirable that the distance to the house be small.
Not everything is so simple when placing it in a house. If the stove in the garden house is located next to internal wall, then discomfort is guaranteed. The cause of unpleasant sensations will be the circulation of cooled air from the outer wall to the stove. So the effect will be rather negative.
The other extreme is the shift of the structure towards external wall, but this will cause problems with the chimney. In cold weather, condensation will form on the inside due to temperature differences.
Brick oven
This design is suitable for country houses where people regularly visit. It can be placed both in the house and on the veranda or directly on the garden plot. Quite often, in order not to depend on weather conditions it is built into the gazebo.
You can build such a garden stove with your own hands quite quickly. The main time costs are due to the hardening of the foundation.
The entire structure can be divided into individual elements:
- foundation;
- woodcutter;
- firebox;
- chimney.
Foundation
It’s definitely not worth saving on this element. If a metal stove for the garden is simply placed in in the right place, then for brick stove you will need a solid foundation because its weight can reach several tons. You also need to remember about the reinforcement cage (10-12 mm reinforcement is suitable).
At this stage, a foundation pit is dug, a cushion of crushed stone and sand is made, a reinforcement cage is placed in the hole and pouring is performed concrete mixture. It is allowed to use foundations from under old buildings that have become unnecessary.
Note!
After hardening concrete foundation on top of it in mandatory a layer of waterproofing is installed.
And only then comes the brickwork.
Construction of a wood shed
For convenience, an ordering is proposed for each stove design - the location of the main elements is indicated not in cm from the base, but in a row of bricks. As for the woodcutter, it will occupy the first 7 rows in height.
At this stage, the only difficulty may be a brick arch, but this can be solved using a template made of wood and plywood. You can make it yourself; for this, 2 curved guides are cut out of wood, and a sheet of plywood is attached to them.
Note!
In order for the seams between the bricks of the arch to be identical, it is recommended to stock up on identical wedges before laying them; they are simply inserted between the bricks and removed after the mortar has set.
Firebox and chimney
In order to separate the woodshed from the firebox, a continuous floor is concreted flush with the surface of the 7th row brick. Asbestos cement sheet is used for formwork. The hardening time of the mixture is about 2 weeks.
Note!
In order for the stove to retain heat better, you need to enclose the firebox with vermiculite sheets.
It is advisable to glue it only to external ceramic bricks.
Arched vaults are erected using the same wooden template. Fireclay bricks are used for the inner surface of the firebox; it is also advisable to use a special mixture instead of the usual mortar.
As for the sizes, you can focus on approximately the following values:
- 16th row – arched vault of the furnace portal;
- 21 row – firebox arch;
- Row 27 – installation of the valve;
- Row 28-29 – concreting the floor with a hole for the chimney.
Metal furnaces
The main advantage of such stoves can be considered their simplicity and relatively low cost, especially in comparison with a Russian brick stove. They can be used not only in the garden, but also indoors; all that is needed for this is a flat, fireproof base.
Camping options are quite popular, for example, a collapsible cast-iron garden stove. Such designs, as a rule, are made so that it can be taken with you if necessary. The most compact representatives of this class, when packaged, fit into a box measuring 5x40x40 cm (not counting the cauldron for cooking).
Of course, it’s difficult to call cast iron light even if you want to, and the weight of such a compact box exceeds 20 kg, but its mobility is beyond all praise. IN assembled form it is a metal rectangle with a firebox and a hole on top for installing a cauldron.
Note!
This type of garden cast iron stove can be equipped with a gas nozzle.
So if the dacha is gasified, you don’t even have to collect fuel for cooking.
About installing metal stoves
There will be no problems with this in the garden, you just need to find a relatively flat piece of land. But when you need to install a metal stove for a garden house with your own hands, you need to take into account fire safety requirements.
It is enough to adhere to the following rules:
- It is prohibited to install the stove on a wooden base. It is advisable to either lay a separate foundation for it, or organize another fireproof foundation. For example, attach asbestos cement sheets to the floor and lay them with tiles;
- It is not recommended to install the stove near walls. If this is necessary, then the walls must be protected with heat-insulating screens made of sheets of the same asbestos cement or vermiculite;
- special attention should be paid to the installation of the chimney, in particular to the places where it passes through the ceiling and roof. In these places additional thermal insulation is required.
In conclusion
Currently, the choice of garden stoves is quite large. Lovers of the classics can stop at the massive brick construction, but other options are also possible. For example, a metal garden stove-fireplace does a good job of serving not only as a stove, but also as a fireplace, while requiring minimal installation labor.
In any case, before choosing, you need to familiarize yourself with the strengths and weaknesses all types of stoves, and the information in this article will help you make the right choice. The video in this article shows, as an example, the option of a brick garden stove, a hob, and even a bread chamber.
If you are planning to build country house, is maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then it usually cannot be done without a small stove, especially if it is planned to be used for most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are also suitable for small house, and for the novice stove maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the correct choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick kilns
The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of the rooms, but also to their location and number external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m² | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Furnace surface opening into the room, m² | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since warming it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on internal structure oven, and not just from its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel while getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will for a long time retain heat transferred to living spaces.
How to choose the right place for the stove?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.
- If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of the buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
- Placing a firebox close to the front door will eliminate excess debris from living rooms, since you don’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the beams attic floor, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite or just sand.
- The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens
Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.
Oven "Krokha"
The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, when correct installation design, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The oven has very small dimensions, only 640×770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.
The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of 18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Oven weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Firebox depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 W |
| With a three-time fire | 2940 W |
| Hob | Single burner |
The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the level of the stove, the stove has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.
According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney pipe) | 352 | |
| Curly (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350×250 | 1 | |
| Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210×250 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| 410×340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40×40×5×520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - “Baby”
The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.
When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry it faster. finished design. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.
First heating finished oven need to be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7–9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.
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If you plan to decorate the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of using the stove.
The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- Embedded in it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
- An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.
The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505×760 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 725 mm |
| Oven weight | 360÷370 kg |
| Firebox depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney duct cross-section size | 100×100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 W |
| Hob | single burner |
To build the Malyshka stove, you will need the following materials and ready-made elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron stove | 410×340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350×200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| 550×800 | 1 |
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.
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Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, there is an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjoining rooms, building a stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.
The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:
IN in this case the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers longer inside the structure, heating the entire area of its side walls.
To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250×400 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×200 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 200×300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140×200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130×310 | 2 |
| Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing | 1000×600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.
Prices for chimney valves
chimney valves
This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed one concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.
- Roofing felt is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, the boundary of the base can be drawn on the waterproofing material with chalk using a long ruler.
- When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.
Prices for roofing material
roofing felt
- The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
- Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row clay-sand mixture. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying
General description and required materials
In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. She is chosen for detailed description, because with its simple design and compact size it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good arrangement of all functional elements - they are placed on one front side structures. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the flat rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during combustion - into the living room.
The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the “Swedish” was created for certain conditions operation. So, it was created for heating country house, measuring 4000×7000 mm, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.
- Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
- For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
- In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.
If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
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Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:
| Name of materials and components | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red solid stove brick (excluding pipe height) | 250×120×60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250×124×65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140×250 | 1 |
| Fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450×250×290 | 1 |
| Cast iron two-burner cooking stove | 410×710 | 1 |
| grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130×130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45×45×5×1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×650 | 2 |
| Drying rack | 190×340 | 1 |
| Metal sheet covering drying chambers | 800×905×0.5÷1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500×700×1.5÷2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the work procedure |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented. |
 | The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the oven niche and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and interior design niches will require 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed. |
 | On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to be formed - the internal lining is made of fire-resistant brick, and the external masonry is made of red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut out of fireclay bricks along the entire perimeter of the internal space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level as external walls ovens built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45×45×1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and general strengthening row. |
 | On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick. |
 | For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks. |
 | After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers. |
 | A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, into which smoke will flow from all other ducts. The chimney pipe will be built above it. |
 | On the 27th row from the top metal sheet continuous brickwork is installed. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks. |
 | Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve seat for a chimney damper, size 250×130 mm. Next, on clay mortar The valve frame itself is also mounted. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above. |
The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.