Many of us quite often undertake home renovations for a variety of reasons: the need to replace furniture, update old decoration, desire for something new, etc. And most often, renovations are started, oddly enough, in the bathroom. As a result, it may be necessary to move it from the riser to the side. Next we will talk about all the features of this process and will give detailed instructions on how to install a toilet in a new place with your own hands (photo and video instructions are also included).

The process of dismantling the toilet

At first glance, the process of moving a toilet is not complicated, but in reality this is far from the case, since the further you plan to move the toilet from the riser, the higher the likelihood of occurrence. Therefore, the decision to carry out this action must be fully justified.

Most often, the need to move the toilet to another location arises for several reasons:

1. Changing the layout of the bathroom/expanding its area. Expanding a space usually entails tearing down walls, moving pipes, etc. Which, in turn, often negatively affects the location of the toilet and therefore has to be moved.
2. Replacing an old toilet. We are talking about a toilet that has different dimensions from the old one. In this case, there is simply no other choice but to dismantle the old plumbing.
3. Buying new plumbing fixtures. This applies to or washbasin, the placement of which will require changing the location of the toilet.

The process of dismantling a plumbing fixture is directly related to how it was installed. The easiest way to dismantle it is when the toilet is mounted on standard fasteners and connected to the tank with a rubber cuff. In other cases, the dismantling process will look something like this:

• We dismantle the fastening. You will need it wrench, if the plumbing fixtures are screwed to the floor.
• We pull out the outlet with the sewer. Gradually move the toilet towards you along the axis of the socket. It is not necessary to turn off the water; just press the water drain button out of habit.

Advice. If the toilet was installed with glue or cement, it should be pulled out very carefully, since there is a high risk of damage to the structure.

• We remove the putty located between the socket and the outlet. Use a screwdriver for this purpose: act very carefully so as not to damage the structure (of course, if you need it).
• Using a chisel, carefully loosen the toilet. To do this, you need to carefully drive the tool under the base of the toilet from several sides and then move it from side to side, trying to loosen the structure.
• Having loosened the structure sufficiently, we carefully remove the outlet from the socket.

Toilet moving technology

The toilet can be moved not only to different distances, but also installed under different angles. Depending on these features, installation can be either simple or complex. Let's look at the process in detail.

Simple case

After dismantling old design you can begin the main work. The first thing you need to do is inspect the old liner: if it is in bad condition or is not long enough, you need to replace it.

Corrugation connection

Immediately before installation we prepare additional elements: corrugation (for connecting the toilet outlet with the socket), steel fasteners (plastic washers are required).

Advice. Even if the corrugation that you plan to use as a connecting element has O-rings, be sure to use silicone sealant.

So, let's proceed directly to the installation of the structure. Using a drill, we drill holes in the places previously marked for fastenings. If there are tiles on the floor, use a slightly larger drill bit first. Then we carefully clean the connecting elements (bell and outlet) and wipe them dry.

We apply sealant to the corrugation and put it on the outlet. We install the toilet, insert the fasteners and tighten them, acting very carefully. As soon as the structure becomes motionless, we stop tightening the fasteners. If there are any gaps in the floor, we cover them. Then we insert the second part of the corrugation, lubricated with sealant, into the socket.

Difficult case

If you plan to move the toilet a distance that is longer than the corrugation, you will need to remodel the drain. Since the process of installing the structure in this case is no different from the previous one, we will not consider it again. We need to consider in detail another process - sewerage expansion. For this purpose it is most often used plastic pipe. Regarding the length, design features and the number of connecting elements, then everything depends directly on the new location of the toilet.

Sewage pipe

The pipe will be attached directly to the floor or (using special clamps) along the wall. But there are other features that you should pay attention to Special attention. To be able to lower the sewer to the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the cross. In the case of plastic, there should be no problems; it is much more problematic to do the above action with cast iron parts. Before removing the outlet, it is better to warm up the socket blowtorch. This must be done. Otherwise, the sealant will remain, and the putty will most likely will crack. If the connecting elements are filled with sulfur, it also needs to be heated with a blowtorch.

Attention! When working with sulfur, it is necessary to wear a gas mask, and the room in which the work is carried out renovation work, must be well ventilated.

After carrying out the above operation, dismantling the pipe and socket will become very simple. And further actions (direct installation of the structure) correspond exactly to the first case.

Possible difficulties and their solutions

After removing the toilet to a greater distance from the riser, certain difficulties may arise, which can be avoided by following simple but effective tips. So, the first and most common problem is the vacuum in the pipes when flushing water from the toilet tank, which, in turn, may well cause a breakdown of the water seal in nearby plumbing fixtures. In addition, this process will be accompanied by unpleasant odors and gurgling sounds.

There is also a high probability of blockages, which is quite logical, since when moving the toilet from the riser, the path of sewage increases. In theory, sewage should “reach” the sewer, but blockage, nevertheless, becomes a more likely problem.

The solution to the above problems is simple: follow the SNiP regulations. According to current rules, it is prohibited to remove plumbing fixtures from the pipe at a distance exceeding 1.5 m.

It is important to install the sewer pipe correctly

Another one of possible problems– insufficient/excessive pipe slope. In the first case, you can provoke a decrease in the speed of drains (which will inevitably lead to blockage), in the second - the accumulation of solid contaminants that will impede the outflow of liquid.

To prevent this, remember a simple rule: for parts with a diameter of about 1 m, the slope should be at least 2 cm per meter; for parts with a diameter of about 0.5 m, the slope should be at least 3 cm per meter.

As you can see, the process of moving the toilet from the riser cannot be called easy. But if you follow all the recommendations described above, you will be able to carry out all the work quickly, clearly and without any difficulties. Proceed carefully and carefully. Good luck!

Toilet installation: video

Moving the toilet: photo

You can move the toilet some distance from the riser. However, this event, simple at first glance, has many nuances on which it depends further use equipment. Plumbers warn that the greater the distance sewage has to travel through the sewer riser, the higher the risk of a blockage. Some “masters” argue that this is not so, because theoretically, the pollution will “get” to the goal in any case. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to “stay in place” on a long journey. Another problem is the appearance of unpleasant sewer smell in room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in sewer pipes that are too long. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the breakdown of their water seals. In addition to odors from the sewer, there will also be unpleasant gurgling sounds. To avoid the problems described above, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

The document prescribes moving the toilet no more than 1.5 m from the sewer riser. In addition to the “correct” removal, you also need to observe the required slope under which the pipeline should be laid. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. For elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope cannot be less than 3 cm per meter. These recommendations should be strictly followed, otherwise problems with blockages cannot be avoided. Reducing the recommended parameters will reduce the speed of fluid movement, which will lead to blockages. Increasing the slope, on the other hand, will cause the water to move too quickly. It will not have time to capture solid contaminants, which will begin to accumulate in the pipe and, over time, completely block it. It turns out that most often, when moving the toilet to another place, it is necessary to lift it in order to provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be masked somehow. Considering that its diameter is quite large, you may need to raise the floor or equip a small podium specifically for plumbing equipment.

Another one important detail: When laying a new pipeline, right angles must be avoided. If you can’t do without them, proceed as follows: install two 45° angles instead of one 90°. Otherwise, the likelihood of blockages in the pipe increases sharply. All the above requirements are mandatory when moving the toilet. However, even they do not work if it is necessary to move the equipment to a distance greater than that specified in SNIP, or its recommendations turn out to be difficult to implement. There is a solution in this case too.

The first is moving the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewerage.

Relocating a toilet is most often done due to the small area of ​​the bathroom. The owners have to use every centimeter of free space to expand the area. In most cases, this particular household toilet item takes up quite a lot of space.

There are too many now design ideas, which are hampered by its location. Therefore, the toilet is deployed or moved to a more suitable place.

Main reasons:

• increasing the usable space of the room;
• optimization of the bathroom area;
• implementation of design ideas;
• installation of plumbing equipment for a child.

The main reason for the transfer is to free up useful space in the plumbing room. The owners want to move the toilet so that they can install washing machine, sink and other convenience items. And simply free space makes the room spacious and comfortable. Especially it concerns panel houses, old "Khrushchev" and similar buildings, where the bathroom area is small or combined with a bathroom.

You will also need to move it when installing the toilet directly opposite the door. This is inconvenient for the use of the entire room and is dangerous for the equipment, since the door hits the toilet body. Ultimately, cracks appear on it, which gradually destroy the toilet. In this case, the owners may suffer additional losses.

A popular reason to move a toilet to another place is to implement design ideas. The ideas of famous designers involve moving equipment closer to the wall or to the opposite corner. This makes it possible to free up room space for the designer’s creative thoughts.

Particular attention should be paid to the children's toilet - a full-fledged plumbing equipment, which is characterized by smaller dimensions and smaller volumes drain barrel. It is best to move such a toilet to the opposite corner.

Moving the toilet - possible risks

This type of work is associated with significant risks that the owners take on:

• increasing the length of water pipes leading to the toilet;
• increased likelihood of blockages;
• change in pipeline slope;
• the appearance of right angles in the water supply system;
• violation of standards.

Even if the toilet is moved close to the wall, it must be taken into account that an increase in the piping system leading to this equipment can lead to problems. For example, when flushing water, a vacuum is formed, which will lead to the breakdown of the water seal in all plumbing located near the equipment. The process is accompanied by loud gurgles and unpleasant odors.

For the same reason, blockages appear. After all, the pipe leading to the toilet has increased in length. This creates conditions for a greater concentration of sewage. To avoid these phenomena, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP ( building codes and rules). With this approach, you will not only reduce the likelihood of breakdowns to a minimum, but also save your health and money.

When calculating the required pipeline slope, you should take into account the standard, which states that for all elements with a diameter of 100 mm, the presented indicator must be at least 2 cm per meter. If there are parts with a diameter of 50 mm, laying should take place at a minimum slope of 3 cm per meter.

A reduced slope value slows down the movement of wastewater and provokes the formation of stagnation of sewage in the pipeline.

A large slope is also undesirable. In this case, water will flow at an increased speed, which will lead to the appearance of solid contaminants. The gradual accumulation of such formations will increasingly impede the flow of water, leading to clogging of the pipeline.

Compliance with SNiP is a key factor in the success of relocating a toilet. But when transferred by more than 1.5 m, these recommendations cannot be taken into account. If there is such a task, you need to install . This is also true at a shorter distance, if there is no desire or opportunity to work on adjusting the slope and installing additional pipes.

Various options for moving the toilet from the riser

Moving the toilet from the riser can be done in two ways:

• moving equipment at a distance of 10 to 20 cm;
• moving equipment over long distances.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take all the necessary measurements and dismantle the toilet. These are mandatory measures that will allow you to successfully move plumbing equipment to Right place and distance.

Moving the toilet to a distance of 10-20 cm

In both cases, it all starts with dismantling the plumbing equipment. A complication here may be that the toilet is installed on cement or glue and its base is also coated with cement. Movements should be as smooth and accurate as possible. Otherwise, cracks will appear on the device, which will render it completely unusable.

If the device needs to be moved a short distance within 10-20 cm, then you need to shut off the water supply to the unit and perform the following steps:

• clearing the space between the sewer pipe and the base of the equipment from putty (a strong screwdriver or chisel is suitable for this);
• carefully loosening the toilet (a wide chisel is driven into different places on the base, the operation is repeated until the device begins to wobble);
• lifting the toilet is carried out as follows: pull the device towards you and remove the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe (this should be done strictly along its axis), if the equipment is stuck, it is forbidden to pull with great effort, it is recommended to carefully swing the device and pull again.

Please note that all dismantling activities must be carried out as carefully as possible using working tools. The toilet must remain in working condition for proper subsequent installation in another location. The standard fasteners and connection of the device to the sewer make the work easier. The device is usually secured with several screws.

To dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew them and carefully remove the equipment from the mount strictly towards you along the axis of the pipeline. Next, it remains to remove the trigger.

Next you should do preparatory work for installation of equipment at a new location. It all starts with a thorough inspection of the old flexible wiring. If it leaks or is not long enough, it must be replaced with a suitable analogue. If no defects are found on the part, we leave it for further use.

To connect the outlet of the device to the sewer socket, you should use a corrugation with two seals installed at its ends. To ensure greater reliability, it is recommended to fill the connection with sealant. Next you need to prepare the fastenings. If they are made of steel, you should make sure that they are not pressed against the sanitary ware. For this reason, plastic washers should be installed.

• Precise markings are made on the floor where the fastening will be carried out. Next, the required holes are drilled. If you are working with tiles, this material is drilled first (the diameter of the drill for tiles must exceed the same parameter for the drill for concrete).
• Cleaning the sewer pipe and toilet outlet. These items must be completely clean and dry.
• Apply silicone sealant to the inside of the corrugation and secure it to the outlet of the device.
• Installing the toilet in its proper place, securing the fasteners in advance drilled holes followed by tightening.
• Gaps may occur between the floor and the equipment. They should be thoroughly covered with the solution. This also creates additional support, which will prevent the base from collapsing under the influence of lateral forces.
• Lubricate the other part of the corrugation with silicone sealant and connect it to the sewer socket.

How to move a toilet over a long distance

To move the toilet to a distance exceeding the specified parameter, you should prepare for alteration of the sewer system. To do this, we need to expand the sewer system. In most cases, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used for this. Length, quantity and configuration auxiliary elements depend on the installation location.

The plastic pipeline can be mounted on the floor or on the wall using clamps. To lower the sewer to the floor level, remove the outlet to the plumbing equipment from the tee or cross.

If the owners deal with plastic, performing such procedures will not be difficult. It is better to heat cast iron elements with a blowtorch or gas burner. This is done so that the cement putty spreads and the seal burns thoroughly.

If the connections are filled with sulfur, they also need to be heated with a lamp. At the same time, they stand out very unpleasant odors. For safety, you should perform the procedure wearing a gas mask in a well-ventilated area. If everything is done correctly, removing the pipe from the socket will be easy. Next, you have to perform a number of standard actions to dismantle and install the toilet.

If the task is simply to turn the toilet at any angle, you need to use a tee, corner pipes or corrugation. In the latter case, the work is simple, but the connection system will not last long. In addition, contaminants may periodically appear in the corrugation cavity, which must be removed.

Is it possible to move the toilet from its usual place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

Why is this necessary?

There can be quite a few reasons for transfer:

• Changing the layout of the toilet. If the wall is moved, the old location of the toilet may be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, not optimal in terms of space utilization.
• to another, having different dimensions . If old toilet was perfectly placed across the combined bathroom, but the new one can only be positioned along it - obviously, the sewer system will also have to be redone for it.
• Purchasing new furniture for the bathroom, washing machine, baths and so on.

Regardless of the motivation, the conclusions in all cases are the same: the old toilet should be removed as intact as possible and, after redoing the sewerage system (and, sometimes, the water supply system), it should be reinstalled at another point in the room.

Advice: in general, pull a rigid liner to the point of the new location of the toilet bowl cold water rarely needed.
If the toilet is moved within the same room, it is often much easier to buy a long flexible hose.

Moving the toilet

Simple case

The toilet unfolds or is moved to a small distance, about a dozen or so centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling a toilet greatly depends on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff, everything is simple:

1. Remove the screws securing the toilet to the floor;
2. Pushing the toilet towards you strictly along the axis of the socket sewer pipe, pull the toilet outlet out of it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to turn off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is mounted on glue or cement, and its outlet is covered with the same cement in a cast iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

1. Armed with a strong screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the sewer pipe and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: a bad move and you'll have to go get a new toilet.

1. Once the outlet is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully driven, with little force, one at a time from different sides under the base of the toilet. Sooner or later he will swing, announcing that the job is done.
2. Then, again, we move the toilet towards ourselves, pulling its outlet out of the sewer socket strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, do not pull harder, but slightly rock the toilet from side to side. Of course, before doing this, it is better to turn off the water to the tank and drain the water.

Installation at a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water supply will be small, we will not need to remodel the sewerage system or build up water pipe.

If the old flexible liner is in good condition, we will not touch it. If it leaks or is not long enough, we simply replace it with an analogue one. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet to the sewer with corrugation. This corrugated pipe, in general, has on both sides rubber seals; but it would be a good idea to stock up on silicone.

In addition, you will need a toilet mounting kit.

Important: fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
Steel screws should not be pressed directly onto the earthenware.

1. Clean the toilet outlet and sewer pipe from debris and wipe dry.
2. Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mountings and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first pass it with a drill through a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
3. Place the corrugation on the toilet outlet, after applying sealant.
4. Pull the toilet towards the floor. We need him to stop wobbling, nothing more. Seal the gaps between the base and the tiles cement mortar– this will prevent the lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet, creating additional support for it.
5. Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
6. Use it.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is askew

Difficult case

We have already agreed that within small room It is easier to connect water with a long flexible hose. Moving the toilet to a distance greater than the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by alteration of the sewer system.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to expand the sewer system, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

Assembly plastic sewer extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

• To insert a plastic pipe into a cast iron socket, use a sealing cuff. It is better to place it on silicone sealant, first of all, thoroughly coating its joint with cast iron pipe.
WITH modern materials This option will not create problems either.

Conclusion

I think the article answered the question of whether the toilet can be moved. Can; Moreover, there are no special difficulties in this.

Good luck with the renovation!

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How to remodel a bathroom with your own hands?

Quite often, both in a separate private house and in an apartment, one has to deal with the need to carry out repairs, finish something, and replace some interior elements with new ones. Often household members resort to redevelopment of one or another room. And in most cases, you have to turn to professional designers and builders. After all, not every ordinary resident of a high-rise building is able to correctly calculate all the necessary partitions, the weight of the overall structure and much more, on which the condition of the entire house and the safety of its inhabitants depend.

There is often a need to remodel a bathroom. In order to competently transfer all water supply and other communications, it is necessary to carefully study the transfer rules.

But there are still several events that you can cope with even on your own. with my own hands. And this is not only painting one or another interior element, wallpapering the walls and changing the flooring. Thanks for the advice experienced craftsmen and minimal experience in construction and finishing works, it is quite possible to cope with such activities as: installing a window, replacing pipes and even moving a toilet from one room to another. It is this element that migrates from one room to another more often than other plumbing fixtures.

How to divide a combined bathroom?

Currently, both old and new houses have apartments with a combined toilet and bathroom. Despite the fact that this move significantly saves space in the room, implementation of this event defined by many as optional. It is quite possible in this case to do without any combinations, since this turns out to be quite inconvenient.

That is why many owners of apartments with similar amenities, after a certain period of time, resort to redevelopment of existing square meters precisely in order to disconnect previously connected equipment. It is necessary to first decide how far apart the bathtub and toilet will be placed from each other, and then also what equipment will remain in its place and which will have to be moved away. In most cases, it is easier to move the toilet rather than moving the bathtub and sink.

Most often, combined bathrooms are located in apartments of panel houses. They were built several decades ago, but are still in use today even in their original form. Few people dare to carry out at least some movement of furniture in them, not to mention a radical redevelopment. The toilet in these rooms is most often located in the corner opposite the door. The riser is located in the other corner - directly opposite the toilet. In most cases, the toilet is moved a relatively short distance, which is sometimes a simple rotation of the toilet relative to the axis of movement.

So, the division of the bathroom into in this case occurs with the help of erecting a partition, but in this case, using the toilet will not be entirely convenient, since in this process the wall will interfere on one side, and the newly installed partition on the other. Therefore, moving the toilet is absolutely necessary.

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How to move the toilet and turn it with your own hands?

Installation sequence for a toilet with an oblique outlet.

In order to avoid such situations, it is necessary to calculate at what angle to the axis of the room it will be installed. new toilet. Typically this angle is at least 45°. When purchasing new equipment, be sure to pay attention to what comes with it. cistern. You don't need corner model, since it is not suitable for installation in a new location. Otherwise, you can rely entirely on your taste and choose absolutely any material, color, and even size. This applies primarily to the toilet bowl. Well, the tank should not be too large. Most often, in such structures a toilet with a flush cistern no more than 40 cm wide is installed.

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The main stages of turning and moving the toilet

Materials you will need:

1. Special outlet for toilet bowl at 45°.
2. Fan pipe with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm.
3. Trumpet.
4. Angular bends at 90°, diameter 100-120 mm.
5. Solid oil or silicone.

In this case, the drain pipe is necessary in order to lengthen the elbow and move the toilet as close to the corner as possible. During the process of moving the toilet, the floor will remain uncovered with tiles (or some other floor covering) plot. Since it will be very visible, you will need, in addition to dividing the room and moving equipment, to also resort to repairing the floor. Quite often, when repairing a particular room with your own hands, this process is delayed indefinitely. After all, repairs are carried out only during free time. Naturally, a problem arises associated with the lack of familiar and necessary convenience for everyone. The lifesaver will be a long corrugated plastic pipe that will connect the outlet Wastewater with toilet.

Even if you purchase it, it is better to try to finish this matter as soon as possible.

After all, this process is unpleasant not only for those who directly carry out the repairs, but also for the rest of the household. The smell will not go away until the new toilet is properly installed and securely secured.

Scheme of connecting the toilet to the sewer.

In order to install the toilet in a new place, you will need the following tools:

• electric drill;
• dowels;
• screws;
• roulette;
• marker or felt-tip pen.

It starts with assembling the supply elbow. For ease of alignment, they are removed from the corner bends rubber cuffs. This process is quite complicated, since you have to achieve the tightest possible connection of the 2 pipes. To deal with this as correctly as possible, you should alternately insert and pull out the component parts of the knee until they are connected tightly enough.

Once each part has found its place, the knee will need to be disassembled and reassembled, but using rubber sealing collars. To facilitate this process, a special lubricant with silicone or grease is used. The elbow outlet is then connected to the pipe in the riser. The connected structure is completely ready for final installation. Finally, all that remains is to adjust the tilt of the drainage element from the toilet. This slope should not be too steep; sometimes an angle of 2-3° is sufficient.

Next, move on to the toilet pedestal. Through the mounting holes, you need to mark the points where the new toilet will be installed. It is at these points that the bolts and dowels for fastening the equipment will be located. At the same time, do not forget to place the toilet next to them in advance and check whether it rests against the wall. If everything is in order, you can proceed to drilling holes in the floor according to the marks made. Next, reinstall the toilet on the floor and screw it in place.

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Moving the toilet from the center of the toilet room to the corner where the riser is located

In the majority standard apartments multi-storey buildings built back in the days Soviet Union, the location of the bathrooms was not convenient enough. For example, it is almost impossible to install a washing machine in a small room. The solution to this problem is to move the toilet slightly, moving it at an angle of 45° to the riser located in the corner of the room.

Types of toilet connections: into the wall, into the floor and with an oblique outlet.

When thinking about such a rearrangement, the first important decision will become a mandatory replacement, which has already served for a considerable number of years. now it’s not difficult, since there are a huge number of them in various plumbing stores and in various price categories. They differ not only in cost, but also in quality, shape and color, that is, the product is presented for every taste.

Despite the fact that the back wall of the toilet will be installed in the corner of the room (close to the riser), you should not buy a model that has a corner flush cistern, which seems to be specifically designed for installing a toilet in a corner toilet room. It is worth abandoning such models because the outlet of this toilet in a combined bathroom will rest against the wall and in this case it will be impossible to make a suitable connection to it.

To move the toilet to a new location, it is better to pay attention to compact options medium-sized, the width of the tank is 35-38 cm. Moreover, the width and length of the toilet bowl will not depend on the size of the tank, so everyone has the right to choose it, guided only by their wishes and the dimensions of the room.

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