Frame floor pie. Interfloor pie in a frame house with water-heated floor

One of the most important technological stages of construction frame house is the floor device. Traditional option, the best way fitting into the decor of such a building is a wooden floor - an environmentally friendly design, which, unlike concrete floors, the frame of the building can withstand without any problems.

Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the sequence of floor construction in frame house. After studying the recommendations given, you will successfully cope with the implementation necessary measures on our own, avoiding the need to attract third-party craftsmen and the associated costs.

First of all you must choose suitable wood. In the selection process, take into account the climate in the location of the house, the expected intensity of the load on the structure, the available budget, as well as the operating features of the room being equipped.

For greater ease of perception, the key criteria for evaluating materials and recommendations for their use are presented in the form of a table.

Table. Choosing material for flooring in a frame house

Evaluation criterion	Explanations and recommendations
Material of manufacture	Coniferous wood. Relatively a budget option, optimally suited for use in medium and small area. Despite the relatively low cost, it is characterized by very good indicators of durability and reliability. Oak, aspen. Traditional representatives of middle and higher price segments. Key performance characteristics are noticeably superior to those of its closest “competitors”. Aspen, due to its highest environmental friendliness, is perfect for use in bedrooms and children's rooms.
Humidity	For installing a floor in a frame house, especially when it comes to living rooms, only high-quality dried wood is suitable. The wet material inevitably decreases as it dries, which leads to the formation of gaps in the coating.
External condition	Make sure that the wood does not have cracks, suspicious spots, splits and other similar defects. Refrain from using such material, even if you are offered a big discount.

For determining required quantity material, calculate the area of the room. Additionally, add about 5-10% to the calculated value for the reserve. It is most convenient to lay flooring using boards 2 m long. If possible, buy elements from the same batch, manufactured and processed under the same conditions. This will ensure that there are no differences in color, texture and other external evaluation criteria of the boards.

The most preferred material for arranging flooring in a frame house is edged tongue and groove board. The main advantage of the application of this material comes down to the absence of the need for finishing grinding, which makes it possible to significantly reduce labor and time costs.

What could be the floor of a wooden house: a review of existing options

The following materials are most often used for flooring:

parquet;
glued parquet board. Material costs less regular parquet, without having any significant external differences, but slightly inferior in a number of operational characteristics;
solid parquet board;
solid wood board.

Preparatory work

The technology for installing the floor in the building under consideration involves the creation of a two-layer structure consisting of a base and directly wooden materials. Traditionally, flooring is laid on joists or on top of floor beams. When choosing a specific method, you need to take into account, first of all, the features of the room being equipped and its location.

Before use, all wooden components are impregnated with special antiseptic and fire retardant agents. The base must be waterproofed future design floor. Penofol is perfect for this job. If you do not have a sufficient budget, you can also use plastic film.

The procedure for arranging a subfloor in a frame house

Preparation of supports

If your frame is being built on columnar foundation, any additional preparatory activities with the exception of arranging waterproofing of the supports (usually roofing felt is used for this), it will not be necessary. In the case of building a house on another supporting structure, start working by arranging the mentioned pillars. At the discretion of the owner, the supports are either built from brick or cast from concrete, taking into account the design height of the future floor. The spacing of the pillars should not exceed 2 m; on average, an 80-100-centimeter pitch is maintained.

As an example, instructions are given for arranging such concrete supports. The procedure is as follows:

using a drill, holes are prepared in the ground with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of about 100 cm;
asbestos-cement pipes about 130 cm long are placed in the holes and internal diameter 100 mm;
the space in the pits around the pipes is filled with sand, which is spilled with water and compacted;
poured into pipes through a funnel mortar, prepared from 1 share of cement, 4 shares of sand, about 5 shares of crushed stone and water;
Special plates are installed in the pipes to fix the lags.

Installation of logs

Before installing the logs, you need to make the bottom trim.

If you don't have it ready yet, follow these steps:

fix the bottom trim boards to the foundation. The elements are installed on the edge. The most commonly used boards are 15x5 cm in size. If necessary, you can change these indicators to suit the conditions of your situation;
connect the boards of the inner bottom trim in the corners using screws;
To internal boards use screws to attach the boards of the middle part of the lower trim;
Attach the outer ones to the middle boards. Fixation is also done using screws;
plan the top of the trim boards using electric planer. Make sure the structure is level using a level;
mark the locations for future installation of logs;
armed electric jigsaw, make grooves in the harness for installing lags.

Next you need to lay the joists. You can use boards or wooden beams with dimensions of 10x5 cm, 15x5 cm or other dimensions for this, focusing on the operating characteristics of the room and the expected level of loads on the floor structure. The logs are fixed using any suitable fasteners: screws, dowels, nails, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.

Attach to the joists wooden slats dimensions 3x3 cm (more is possible). To do this, you can use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners. The bars will serve as supports for the ends of the boards of the floor being installed. For greater convenience of further installation of the flooring, connect the logs with transverse bridges from a similar beam/board. Attach the lintels, maintaining a 125-centimeter or other step in accordance with the dimensions of the flooring elements used.

Tighten the boards of the bottom trim using nails, adhering to a checkerboard pattern and a 0.5-0.8-meter step.

Important note! Traditionally, in frame construction technology, the subfloor is first installed, after which walls and partitions are erected. But under certain circumstances or due to the owner’s personal considerations, the order in which the mentioned technological measures are performed may change.

Installation of rough flooring

On top of the previously mentioned support rails measuring 3x3 cm are laid OSB boards(necessarily with moisture-resistant properties) or sheet plywood. The latter, as a rule, is not attached to the support rails, but directly on top of the joists. And if in the case of OSB no difficulties usually arise, then the installation of plywood flooring must be approached with knowledge of a number of important nuances. Rules and recommendations for correct installation Plywood decking is detailed in the following table.

Table. Rules for installing a plywood subfloor

Requirements	Explanations
Laying scheme	Sheets of plywood need to be mounted staggered, i.e. every new row should be offset relative to the previous one by approximately half of the sheet element.
Sheet thickness	When choosing the thickness of plywood, be guided by the installation step of the support joists. These parameters are interrelated, i.e. you can think about this point even before installing the supports. So, if the logs are installed at a distance of 30-45 cm, use plywood with a thickness of 16-18 mm or OSB-3 boards with a thickness of 18 mm. If you install supports with a pitch of 50 cm or more (the maximum value traditionally does not exceed 62.5 cm), buy sheets with a thickness of 18-21 mm or slabs with a thickness of 22 mm.
Fastening the deck	A comprehensive method is suitable for attaching plywood, which involves the combined use of glue and self-tapping screws or rough nails. Self-tapping screws will ensure the main fixation of the sheets, and the glue will additionally eliminate the appearance of squeaks. Plywood is attached around the perimeter and in the middle (diagonally). Place fasteners along the edge of the sheet in 15-centimeter increments; in the middle part, it is recommended to maintain a 30-centimeter gap.
Gaps between sheets	Plywood is laid with 2-3 mm gaps. To ensure equal spacing, insert nails of the appropriate diameter between the sheets. After installing the flooring, you will remove them.

A layer of water vapor barrier material is placed in the space between the joists. It is most convenient to use a construction stapler to attach the film.

The construction work is almost complete. There are only a few final steps left to complete, namely:

place mineral wool or other selected thermal insulation material in the cells of the floor frame;
Vapor barrier
lay boards about 30 mm thick across the joists. Maintain a 40-60 cm step, depending on the thickness of the boards selected for the subsequent flooring and the expected level of loads on the base. For fastening wooden elements You can use self-tapping screws or any other suitable fastener. Thanks to this additional sheathing, the necessary ventilation gap will be created;
lay a tongue-and-groove board 25-35 mm thick on top of the sheathing, or regular board thickness 40-50 mm;
install the selected finishing floor covering.

Now you own everything necessary information for independent arrangement of the floor structure in a frame house. Follow the guidelines you have studied and everything will definitely work out.

Plank floor in a frame house

Good luck!

Video - Floor installation in a frame house

Video - How the floor is arranged in a frame house

Why don’t I use a wind-moisture-proof film in the lower floor of a frame house on stilts or on tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about pie lower ceiling in general and about VVZ film/membrane in particular.

Bottom floor of a frame house in Nazia, no film underneath

First of all, let's touch on the issue of design. The above photo shows the triple strapping on which the floor joists rest. This is one of the options for implementing the strapping screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already discussed this issue in detail in a note, although that note is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one I like better), so I see no point in repeating myself.

Protecting a frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we come to the choice of the “pie” of the ceiling, that is, what should be laid there and in what order. And we always start with protection from small rodents that can live in the insulation if measures are not taken.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent mesh, bottom frame frame on tape

In this photo you see the lower ceiling; it was built on a ready-made old tape. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles there and not a tape, first we would have made the strapping and stretched the mesh in the same way. Like this:

In the photos above there is a lower overlap, the mesh is sandwiched between bottom trim and a board lying flat on the heads. In the case of the option with a triple bottom frame and floor joists on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the frame. The point is that the mesh is located immediately under the insulation, in order not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - to prevent it from sagging or falling out.

This is what the finished harness and stretched mesh look like from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower ceiling and rodent mesh

We usually use woven galvanized metal mesh 0.7mm with a mesh size of 5*5mm, rolls 1*30m, but this size is not important, the main thing is that the mesh is small so that no mouse can get through.

Insulation of floors with stone wool

Insulation of the floor with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

There is nothing unusual in the insulation process itself; the insulation boards are laid spaced between the joists, and are supported from below metal grid. You can also additionally use punched paper tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool is supported by meth. mesh, you can add punched tape

And now we come to the most interesting...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower ceiling?

Yes, yes, the VVZ film/membrane is not visible in the photographs. It's not visible because it's not there. But no, because it’s not needed.

Most often they write to me about this: “But what about moisture from the ground?”, “After all, the insulation will get wet!” and so on. But the trick is that stone wool can only get wet if there is direct contact with moisture in the form of drops or streams, which certainly won’t happen in the underground. But it simply doesn’t pick up moisture from the air.

So, only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer I usually use a thicker one. stone wool eg Paroc WAS 35.

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use wind protection (note that protection from moisture is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter talks about ventilated facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof slabs work the same way, whether in the wall or in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to perform the “lower part of the lower floor”; as an option, it is also possible to use Isoplaat MDVP windproof boards, although they are more difficult to install. But I would not use wind-moisture-proof films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not capable of passing water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for covering, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications; unfortunately, no one is immune from them.

What is most often used to hem the floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common option for lining the bottom floor that I have seen on other people’s construction sites is inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, from the fact that “we have always done it this way”, ending with the fact that it is cheaper than “newfangled windproof boards or insulation.”

It is important to understand that there must be material underneath your home

with good vapor permeability;
with sufficient wind protection;
capable of leaking liquid in case of leakage.

Neither OSB nor films/membranes fall under these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, the use of windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although I myself windproof insulation three times more expensive than usual! Because of this price difference, there is a common misconception that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not true. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (the first layer), and secondly, let’s do the math.

There was already an argument about this once, but here are some brief calculations that were relevant at the time of the argument:

Paroc Extra usual ~ 1600 rubles per 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slabs.

Paroc WAS 35 costs much more: ~ 4500 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two insulation materials 145 rubles with 1m2. Now let's consider the filing as board and film:

Dry inch gauge ~ 8000 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, film type Izospan A - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version you will have to pay an additional 150 rubles for 1m2 of insulation, but you will not have to pay an additional 225+ rubles per m2 of board and film lining, so the myth “it is unreasonably more expensive” was not confirmed, it turned out the other way around.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not installed when hemming with an inch. But the mesh protects the house from rodents and, in an amicable way, is needed in any implementation option.

What's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and lining (or rather, the lack thereof). It remains to be discussed what the ceiling has on top. So, after completing the installation of insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use polyethylene film:

Bottom floor and vapor barrier

In the framework of this note, I would not like to go into details, I will only say that 150 micron film is prescribed in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many “branded” PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier of walls and ceilings. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are taped. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of construction. The video is of mediocre quality, but there was nothing better and fresher. I'll have to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture-resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made a subfloor from moisture resistant plywood, you can start assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

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Classmates

IN technological process construction of a frame house remains one of the most important processes proper arrangement.

A properly designed and constructed floor will help avoid heat loss and maintain the optimal temperature in the house. So how to make a floor in a frame house correctly?

Taking into account the features of construction technology frame houses, the foundation of such structures can be:

, suitable for softer soil and making it easier to select the desired level;
concrete, installed in harder soils;
, which is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, laid on a dense sand cushion.

Actually, based on this, the installation of the main load-bearing beams frame house and floor in particular on the supporting foundation.

Attention! Considering that a frame house is a permanent structure designed for a long service life, the choice of wood for its manufacture should be approached thoughtfully and based on future environmental climatic conditions.

So, Coniferous wood is traditionally chosen among cost-effective options, possessing good performance durability. Oak and aspen are more expensive, but are characterized by the best performance. For flooring, you should choose only well-dried material, since wet material tends to shrink in size, resulting in gaps.

Since the floor is being made in a frame house, the most common installation method is to install a rough and finished floor. The subfloor consists of OSB boards attached to the lower parts, on which the remaining layers are then laid. The result is a structural cake of a frame floor.

The finished floor is nothing more than the finishing floor covering in the house. They may be:

glued parquet board;
parquet;
solid parquet board;
processed wood board;
laminate;
ceramic tile.

Kinds

The construction of the floor in a frame house is carried out in several ways, depending on the permanent residence in it. So, at the dacha it may be simpler, but for permanent residence it often requires additional and, accordingly, installation of heated floors.

Depending on preferences, foundation structure, economic opportunities, The following flooring methods are distinguished:

frame floor;
monolithic floor.

Frame

It is used in the presence of pile, columnar and strip foundations. It is a system of load-bearing and intermediate beams and joists.

The installation of the frame and preparation for installing the floor begin with the laying of the beds. They are boards laid on the top of the foundation with waterproofing and attached to it with anchor bolts.

The beds are aligned according to outside foundation and interconnected, forming a rigid single structure. In the beds, cuts are made for the logs in accordance with their pitch. According to the norms and rules, this step is 500 mm.

The cross-section of the logs is determined by their use for the construction of the first floor, second floor and bathroom. So, for the first floor, logs or intermediate beams with a cross-section of 100 * 250 mm are used, for the second floor, logs with a cross-section of 70 * 200 mm are purchased, in the bathroom beams with a cross-section of 50 * 150 mm are used. Joists and intermediate beams refer to the supporting structural elements on which the floor is mounted and the walls are erected.

After installing the logs into the cuts, boards are attached to them at the bottom. The subfloor will subsequently be laid on them.

For clarity, let’s consider all the elements in the context, that is constructive floor pie in a frame house on stilts:

The first layer is an OSB board 6 mm thick, laid between the joists on boards.
It is advisable to cover the first layer with a film of waterproofing and wind protection.
Insulation (most often mineral basalt wool), filling the entire thickness of the lag.
OSB board 18 mm thick.
Insulation - extruded polystyrene foam.

Further, some distinctions can be made depending on the purpose of use of the building. So, for cottages and premises where constant heating is not expected and underfloor heating is not required, the continuation of the “pie” will be like this:

Foam backing.
Substrate – GVL (gypsum fiber sheets).

The floor in the bathroom in a frame house and, preferably, in the kitchen, where possible high humidity and heating is required in the cold season, will contain the following elements of the pie:

Vapor barrier layer.
Reinforcing metal mesh.
Waterproofing film.
Screed.
The substrate is in the form of foamed foil polystyrene foam in cases of subsequent use of laminate or parquet.
Ceramic tile.

About floors V frame bath we also have a separate one.

For areas of the house intended For permanent residence , the organization of a heated floor is required. Therefore, the floor pie in a frame house will consist of the following layers:

Aluminum plates.
Heated floor circuit system.
Foam backing.
Substrate - GVL.
Finish coating in the form of parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles.

Attention! Taking into account the peculiarities of constructing frame houses on stilts, pillars or strip foundations, to prevent contact of the lower part of the subfloor with surrounding weather conditions the entire perimeter of the foundation is sheathed with a plinth.

At the same time, even with correct installation, Framed wood floors are still susceptible to moisture when condensation forms, they are less resistant to mechanical stress, so in many cases a common design is a concrete floor in a frame house on concrete foundation. This method is used in the construction of permanent structures designed for permanent residence.

Monolithic

Floor based concrete screed has a number of advantages:

Durability and long service life.
Withstands heavy loads.
It is the basis for heated floors.

Creating a concrete screed involves a number of preparatory works:

Under the place where the screed is created, the soil is leveled and thoroughly compacted.
A sand cushion is poured in, which is also compacted.
The sand is covered with a layer of crushed stone, at least 10 cm thick.

Attention! Before pouring the screed, you must make sure that all communications, including sewerage, water supply, electrical cables, are labeled and displayed.

Thus, everything is ready to pour the screed. The solution is most often delivered ready-made to large quantities, designed for simultaneous filling of the entire area. Fill the screed so that there are no voids left. Dries rough screed from 14 to 28 days. She serves a solid foundation, allowing you to construct the walls and floor of a frame house on it. The remaining layers of the cake can be laid on the finished, naturally dried screed. Now its section will look like this:

Sand pillow.
A layer of crushed stone.
Reinforced screed.
Waterproofing.
Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Warm water or electric floor.
Clean screed.
Finish floor covering.

Instructions

How to make floors in a frame house? How complex is the technology? Is it possible to install it yourself? What features should be taken into account? Many questions arise.

You should build a frame floor with your own hands when you have the necessary construction skills and have an understanding of existing standards and rules.

Let us present the device technology in the form step by step instructions For different types foundation.

For pile, column and strip foundations

1. A load-bearing frame of beams is laid on the foundation.

2. Logs are nailed to the beams.

3. Nailed to the joists support boards- subfloor holders.

4. A subfloor made of OSB 6 mm thick is laid.

5. The entire area of the subfloor is covered with a waterproofing film.

6. The space between the joists is filled with mineral wool.

7. A second layer of OSB 18 mm thick is laid on top of the logs.

8. A second layer of insulation is laid - expanded polystyrene.

9. A backing in the form of foil polystyrene foam is laid to prevent heat loss.

10. A reinforcing metal mesh is installed.

11. Contours of electric or water heated floors are drawn.

12. The finishing screed is poured.

13. The entire area is covered with a foam backing in the case of subsequent flooring of parquet or laminate.

14. The final floor covering is laid or tiling follows.

Concrete floors

Do-it-yourself concrete floors in a frame house are constructed in stages:

The soil is prepared, cleared and compacted.
A layer of sand is poured in and compacted thoroughly.
A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 10 cm or more is poured. It is leveled and compacted using a vibrating machine to ensure maximum compaction of the layers.
Reinforcing metal rods with a cross-section of at least 10 mm are placed on the crushed stone.
Poured cement-sand mortar semi-thick consistency. It fills all the voids to prevent subsequent cracking of the rough screed.
The waterproofing of the floor of a frame house is laid after 28 days on a rough screed.
A layer of insulation in the form of extruded polystyrene foam or the densest foam is laid. The joints between the mats are taped with mounting tape.
The insulation layer is covered with a vapor barrier film or a foil-coated lavsan backing.
Heated floors are being laid.
A finishing screed is poured to fill all voids.
A foam backing is placed on the dried layer of screed, followed by laying flooring or facing tiles are laid.

Useful video

The construction of floor joists and subfloors is further described in the video below:

conclusions

Thus, the installation of the floor in a frame house is of decisive importance. The durability of the entire building, the comfort and warmth of the house depend on how competently and efficiently the installation is performed. Do not forget that a house is a permanent structure. You won’t be able to figure it out in a year and there are some things you won’t be able to fix. It is necessary to build carefully, paying attention to all the nuances and details.

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In today's conditions, the operating costs of maintaining private houses have become seriously important, approximately half of which are associated with the cost of heating the building. Therefore, it is not surprising that close attention is paid to ways to reduce them.

Effective and effective option Reduce heat loss from a frame house by properly constructing the floor. According to some data, with an insufficient level of thermal insulation, up to 20-25% of the thermal insulation occurs through the structure in question. total heat loss building. This becomes even more significant when construction is carried out using pile foundations, raised above the surface of the earth.

Composition of the “pie”

The basis of the floor structure in a house built according to frame technology, floor beams protrude. Typically they are made from wooden beam, the size of which depends on the parameters of the building and the load calculated taking this into account. Required condition for long-term use of wooden beams - reliable waterproofing connection points with the pile. For this, as a rule, inexpensive roofing felt or glassine is used.

It is allowed to install secondary beams laid at a smaller pitch than the main ones. Such a ceiling is more reliable and durable, however, it requires additional costs necessary for the production of work and the purchase of materials. Often the floor design involves only the main beams.

Work on installing a floor in a frame house involves performing the following operations:

placement of cranial bars on beams in the form of load-bearing elements of rough plank flooring;
installation of flooring from boards;
laying a waterproofing layer. Conventional film or more modern materials are used, for example, moisture- and wind-proof membranes;
styling thermal insulation material, which is placed between the floor beams in such a way as not to leave voids.
installation of a vapor barrier layer. Reliable vapor barrier implies the use modern materials, for example, membranes or films made of foamed polyethylene. They do not allow moisture to reach the insulation, however, they do not prevent the movement of water vapor from it. If savings are necessary, ordinary polyethylene film is used, which does not have such impressive characteristics;
installation of a subfloor made of boards or chipboard. The first option is cheaper, the second is more convenient to use and stronger.

The final floor covering is carried out based on the tastes and wishes of the owner of the building. For this purpose, various finishing materials are used, which are presented in significant quantities on the Russian construction market.

Features of technology and selection of materials

The “pie” floor construction performed in a frame house is considered traditional and is also used in other building structures. This takes into account a number of features characteristic of floor installation work in wooden buildings:

the waterproofing layer is laid on the plank flooring and passes on top of the floor beams, extending onto the walls of the house;
a vapor barrier membrane or film is also placed on the walls, which prevents moisture from entering the insulation through this structure;
often used for insulation:
- mineral wool. At the same time, they are actively used different varieties material - basalt wool, slag and glass wool. The advantages of this thermal insulation material are reasonable cost with excellent technical and operational qualities;
- Styrofoam. It is not inferior in insulation characteristics to mineral wool. However, widespread use is hampered by the material's flammability;
- extruded polystyrene foam and foamed penoizol. Modern insulation materials, the main disadvantage of which is the relative high price. Moreover, from the point of view of thermal insulation parameters, their performance is usually higher than that of other insulation materials.

From the author: We are glad to welcome novice builders who have decided to insulate the floors in their homes with their own hands. This is undoubtedly correct solution, because how well your house retains heat directly determines the utility costs for its maintenance during the cold season. The money you overpay for heating is enough for a natural mink fur coat, two sets winter tires or at least a few trips to the restaurant. It's a shame, isn't it? Here's your incentive to read the article to the end.

Surely many of you have heard of the term “floor pie on the ground”. What kind of dish is this? Builders call it “pie” multilayer construction, used to create a warm, reliable and functional floor covering. The layers and technology for laying floor layers with insulation will differ depending on whether the work is carried out in an apartment or a private house, what finishing coat will be used in this case, what is the situation with humidity and temperature conditions indoors, etc.

Installing floors in private homes is a complex process that requires certain knowledge. Now we will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to properly make a base for floor insulation in a wooden frame house, and we will share special tricks regarding installation technology. Read, understand, take notes. We are sure that, following our advice, you can easily do this yourself.

Source: http://papamaster.su

Why is layer-by-layer installation of flooring necessary?

The visible part of the floor on which we walk is only the “tip of the iceberg”, below which there are several tens of centimeters of layers of other materials. All this is done in order to properly make the foundation in wooden house and provide your home with a comfortable microclimate. Important parameters for any gender are:

evenness - if the base of the floor is uneven, the floor covering will wear unevenly in different areas;
high sound insulation - the room is more comfortable the less extraneous sounds are heard in it;
wear resistance, which affects the service life of the coating;
ability to retain heat.

Technology of laying layers of flooring

To carry out work on wooden floors, we will need the following materials:

screws and nails;
insulation - slabs mineral wool, foam plastic or penoplex;
vapor barrier membrane;
polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
penoizol or mounting foam;
wooden beam;
aluminum reinforcing tape.

The design of the floor covering on logs is the most popular one used in modern construction. In the first case, when installation is carried out according to wooden beams of the first floor in a high-rise building, or in a wooden frame house, the foundation must be made following the following sequence:

Source: http://stroitel.linpc.ru

the soil under the base is selected to a depth of about half a meter, after which markings are made for the posts, in increments of 60 to 70 centimeters;
the base under the posts must be rigid, so it is filled and compacted, or filled with concrete;
the upper part of the columns is aligned using a level;
fill the thermal insulation layer so that at least 25 cm remains to the top of the columns. Expanded clay is the most popular insulation when carrying out such work, sawdust is also often used for these purposes;
after the solution has completely hardened, the beams are laid;
it is convenient when the supports are placed first around the perimeter, and then in the center of the room;
waterproofing is laid on top of the supports in two layers (polyethylene film, roofing felt or backfill types of waterproofing);
logs are installed. Most often, they are mounted perpendicular to the light from the window opening, in order to then lay the boards along it. First, logs are installed around the perimeter, with a distance from the wall of 2 to 3 centimeters. After this, intermediate ones are set. The logs are mounted on the base without the use of rigid fasteners. To strengthen the structure and give it rigidity, you can connect the logs to each other using wooden jumpers attached to galvanized corners.
For additional insulation bars are nailed to the joists, on which the subfloor (plywood or OSB boards) is mounted. It is recommended to lay it not too tightly, leaving gaps that will subsequently serve for ventilation;
a layer is laid waterproofing film, which is usually secured with a construction stapler. All joints are glued using reinforced tape;
insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoplex) is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier membrane is fixed;
Using liquid penoizol, the joints between the wall and the film are processed. This is additional protection for the entire structure;
The plank floor covering is being laid.

From this video instruction you will learn how to install different floor coverings in a country house:

Now you know what a screed on wooden beams looks like, and you have become familiar with all the stages of work. But how to do it correctly on the ground? Such a covering can be installed in any home, regardless of the level of underground groundwater, on any foundation. The only exception is a building on stilts. Such a base is simple and reliable, easy to self-execution. There are no basements or gaps for ventilation in the subfloor.

Correct screed wooden floor consists of nine main layers, each of which performs its own function. The thickness of them can vary for each building individually. They all fit in a strictly defined sequence:

a layer of prepared clay, the purpose of which is to stop groundwater, or more precisely, to cut off their capillary rise;
sand is poured in to weaken the capillary rise of water and to relieve the pressure of subsequent layers. You can use sand of any quality, including unwashed quarry sand;
a layer of coarse (with a fraction of 40–60 mm) crushed stone, which also prevents the rise of water. Each of the listed 3 layers must have a height of at least 10 centimeters and must be compacted. It is impossible to change the order of their filling, since in this case deformation and destruction of the entire structure will very quickly occur;
layer polyethylene film, used to prevent laitance from flowing into the lower layers. It is laid in 2 layers with an overlap, all joints and places where it touches the wall are carefully glued;
rough concreting is performed using “lean concrete”, for which fine (with a fraction of 10–12 mm) crushed stone and washed sand are used. Dispersed reinforcement using steel fiber is also carried out. The freshly poured solution needs to be leveled using corner marks, this will simplify further work floor installation;
a waterproofing layer is laid, for which regular one will do roofing felt In some cases, it is recommended to lay it in two layers, the joints are soldered using a construction hair dryer;
As the next layer (thermal insulation), any insulation is used - polystyrene foam, penoplex. The joints between the insulation boards are also carefully taped to avoid heat loss;
a finishing screed is performed, during which “warm floors” can be installed immediately;
laying flooring, which can be anything the homeowner desires.

This is how the foundation is “prepared” parquet board, laminate, linoleum and other coatings. As you can see, there are particular difficulties in working on the correct installation of the floor. with my own hands no, and anyone with minimal construction skills can handle them. Well, it's time to get down to business!

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