In the previous part we talked about the advantage wooden floors, calculated the amount of tongue and groove boards, dismantled the old floors and cleared the underground space of debris. Today we'll show you how to install new joists and lay wood floors.
Installation of new joists and posts
Let's start making the frame of our floor, consisting of support posts and lag.
Height of the underground space. When laying the frame, you must proceed from the calculation that the height of the underground space for floors made on the floors should be not less than 10 mm(from gaskets to floor boards). For floors on the ground, the height of the underground space should not exceed 250 mm (from the ground or underlying layer to the floor board).
Lags- These are the transverse bars of the floor sheathing on which the covering boards are laid. In accordance with GOST 8486-86, antiseptic unplaned boards made of healthy coniferous and soft wood are used for logs hardwood, except linden and poplar, humidity up to 18%. The logs can rest on beams, on concrete base, on posts, even on the ground (when using antiseptic leveling pads).
Lag sizes. When laying on panels, the width of the joists should be from 80 to 100 mm, the thickness from 25 to 40 mm. When laying logs on separate supports (columns on the ground, floor beams), their thickness should be from 40 to 50 mm, and their width from 100 to 120 mm.
Beams– make up a horizontal load-bearing structure buildings and structures that have supports at two or more points.
Support posts. Since the surface of our floor slabs is uneven, we will build support posts from scraps of boards. The same design was used in the construction of our floor by Soviet builders, but the quality of the parts and the entire structure (posts and joists) was far from the best.
Distance between posts under the logs (log span) should be 800-900 mm with a log thickness of 40 mm and 1000-1100 mm with a log thickness of 50 mm.
When laying flooring boards with a thickness of 21 mm, the distance between the joists should be no more than 300 mm.
To make the logs we will use previously removed floorboards. Since their thickness does not reach 40 mm, we will increase the number of columns for each lag, reduce the distance between them to 300 mm and increase the total number of logs (correspondingly reducing the distance between the logs to 300 mm).
Typically, logs are placed across the direction of light and across the passage in order to lay the covering boards along the light and in the direction of travel. But in our case, we placed the logs along the long side, and laid the boards along the shortest length of the room.
First we install the outermost joists near opposite walls with a gap of 20-30 mm between the wall and the joist, then arrange the rest.
Distance between joists usually 400-500 mm. We have reduced this distance to 300 mm. IN doorways In adjacent rooms, there is a wide joist protruding beyond the partition by at least 50 mm on each side so that the floor boards of adjacent rooms rest on one joist.
Soundproofing and waterproofing gaskets Laying the logs on interfloor ceilings, made from reinforced concrete slabs, are produced using soundproofing and waterproofing gaskets or backfills. The gaskets are laid in continuous strips under the joists along their entire length without breaks, strictly along their longitudinal axis so that they protrude 10 mm onto the joist on each side.
As waterproofing For gaskets, strips of roofing felt or polyethylene are used. As soundproofing Strips of polyurethane, rolled cork or soft fiber boards 12 mm thick are used for gaskets under the logs. The humidity of the gaskets should be no more than 12%.
You can also fill the space between the joists soundproofing boards based on mineral (stone) wool, and lay a roll cork backing on the logs themselves.
For soundproofing backfills, sand that does not have organic impurities is used. The content of clay particles in sand is allowed up to 3%. The use of backfills from dusty materials (ash from thermal power plants, etc.) and construction waste prohibited. Sand humidity should be no more than 4%.
By adding sand we also level the uneven surfaces of the floor slabs.
Alignment of logs by level performed directly upon installation. All logs must be located in the same plane. The evenness and horizontality of the laid joists is checked using laser level, a two-meter strip with a level applied to the joists in any direction; in this case, the rail should touch (without gaps) all the joists.
For alignment logs lying on slabs floors, It is allowed to add a layer of sand under the soundproofing pads or directly under the logs themselves along the entire lower plane without gaps. Prohibited tamping wooden wedges under the joists to level them and installing the joists on wooden supports.
For alignment logs located on support posts, we put it under the joists wooden spacers from chipboard of appropriate thickness.
Thoroughness in the installation of support posts and joists is an almost 100% guarantee of the strength and durability of our wooden floors.
Do the joists need to be firmly attached to the base? When laying joists directly on floor slabs allowed fixing them with stripes cement-sand mixture(while ensuring the isolation of the lags from the solution bitumen mastic or hydroglass insulation. The coating is laid after the DSP solution has dried. In this case, you can level the logs into a plane by tamping mortar under them.
However, it should be borne in mind that attaching the joists to the floor slabs will enhance the transmission impact noise neighbors (steps, children jumping, sounds of falling objects) located on the floor below.
Do the joists need to be fastened together? Yes, if we want to enhance the rigidity and stability of the frame and maintain the plane of the leveled joists. To do this, you can fasten the logs together with scraps of boards using galvanized corners 40x40x40 mm.
Overlapping sheets can also be laid between the joists and covering boards glassine. Thus, we isolate the floor boards from possible fumes and condensation. For ease of use, we attach glassine sheets one at a time using construction stapler on top of the joists as the floor boards are laid.
If our floors are dry and warm, then we can safely do without glassine.
Laying tongue and groove wooden floors
Self-tapping screws (screws). For assembly, we use self-tapping screws with a length equal to 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board or nails of a similar length. For example, if the thickness of the board is 27 mm, then we use 3.8x55 mm screws.
Nails. If you use nails, then for boards 27 mm thick we use nails 70 mm long, for boards 35 mm thick we choose nails 100 mm long. Wide boards are more susceptible to warping, so we definitely use self-tapping screws to install them.
Installation of the first board. The first board should be of sufficient length and cover the entire width (length) of the room. In this case, the ends of the boards should not be closely adjacent to the walls. A distance of 3-5 mm on each side will be sufficient for its expansion during operation.
We place the first board with the ridge (tenon) to the wall with a gap of 10-15 mm. It is very important to align the board strictly perpendicular to the room, as it sets the direction for all subsequent boards. All gaps will subsequently be closed with skirting boards.
We attach the first board next to the ridge vertically from above in such a way that the heads of the self-tapping screws (screws) are covered with baseboards after installing the floor. At the other end of the board and in all subsequent boards, we place self-tapping screws in the grooves of the boards (above each joist) at an angle of 45-60 degrees.
Pre-drilling holes. When installing the boards, you should try to press them against the joists as tightly as possible. You can pre-drill holes in the grooves of the boards to be fixed before installing the screws. thin drill on wood. To some, this operation will seem unnecessary and empty, but we must remember that by doing so we will protect the groove from possible damage (splitting). And secondly, and no less important, this will allow the screw to properly press the board to the joist. If we want to do without drilling holes, then to press the boards we will have to resort to the help of a partner, or during the installation process we will have to stand with our feet on the board being fixed.
To hold the boards together, metal staples are driven into the joists and wedges. Instead of staples, you can successfully use scraps of boards, temporarily attaching them to the joists with self-tapping screws, and instead of metal wedges, use similar wooden spacers.
When installing subsequent boards, 2 bonding options are possible:
rally and attach every a board to each joist;
rally and attach every 4th board to each joist.
First way is more applicable to boards that are well dried and adapted to the room and is most desirable, since it ensures a tight fit of each board to the joists and to the boards in adjacent rows. But it is also more labor-intensive.
Second way faster, since we simply combine tongues with grooves along the 3rd rows of boards, and use the 4th board to join and hold all 4 rows. At the same time, we have the opportunity to use short boards 2-3 meters long in 3 intermediate rows. We join short boards on joists with overlapping joints in adjacent rows of boards. Accordingly, the 4th board should be intact for the entire length (width) of the room.
This method allows us to re-lay tongue and groove boards in the future if they have been dried out.
Let's proceed directly to joining together the boards (boards). To do this, at every 4th joist we insert a scrap with a ridge into the groove of the outer board. It will be used as a spacer between the board and the wedges. At a distance of 7.5 cm from the spacer board, we hammer the brackets into the joists (or use a screwdriver to screw in the cuttings of the boards).
We insert the wedges between the spacer board and the bracket towards each other and hammer the wedges with two hammers until the boards in the rows are completely connected over the entire surface. For the most uniform bonding of the boards, we need to carefully tap the wedges in all areas where we installed the staples.
Having brought the boards together as tightly as possible and without gaps, we secure them with screws or nails in places on the free joists. Then we knock out the wedges, remove the staples, remove the spacer boards, and secure the vacant areas.
Connecting the ends of the boards. If we use rows of boards that are not full in length, then the connection of the ends of the boards with each other and with the side edges must be placed strictly on the joists.
Laying the last boards. In the last 2-3 rows we need to lay entire boards along the entire length (width) of the room. There is no longer any space left to install the brackets, so you can lean a sheet of plywood against the wall and gently squeeze it out last rows boards using a crowbar or by knocking wedges between the spacers.
Last board gender usually has a non-standard width and is cut from the ridge side using circular saw or jigsaw. The width of the board should be sufficient to fit into the remaining space with a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall.
We fix last board from the wall side in the same way as the first board - vertically from above, with the possibility of covering the screw heads with a plinth.
Ventilation of a wooden floor
The installation of ventilation holes in coatings laid along joists on interfloor floors is not required.
To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground in rooms located on the 1st floor of buildings without a technical underground, slotted skirting boards must be laid near the walls and partitions, or holes must be left in the covering or fillets in two opposite corners of the room at a distance of 150-200 mm from the skirting boards. The area of the holes should be 20-30 cm. The holes should be covered with metal ventilation grilles, rising above the floor by 7-10 mm.
New wooden floor laid down Our further actions depend on what we plan to cover it with. To paint and varnish the floor, the surface must be sanded and washed. At the end of all operations.
Installation of an adjustable floor is a quick, economical and fairly simple process of creating a rough flooring with a perfectly flat plane. This article will introduce you to new technology, will talk about the types of adjustable floors, areas of application and installation process.
What problems does an adjustable floor solve?
Adjustable joists are a technology for creating an exceptionally lightweight floor using the dry repair methodology, therefore their main area of application is high-rise buildings and houses old building, where increasing the load on the floors is fraught with trouble. The technology is especially relevant when it is necessary to raise the floor level by 120 mm or more, which a dry screed can no longer cope with.
In terms of environmental friendliness and practicality, a correctly installed floor meets the characteristics of a system of stationary logs. The sound insulation of such a floor is quite good, heat transfer to the lower floors is minimal due to the reduction of cold bridges. The space between the joists has continuous ventilation, so mold and mildew do not grow in the floor filler.
Another feature of such a floor is the ability to install a perfectly even surface under tiles or self-leveling floors in the shortest possible time - 7–8 m2 in one hour of work by two people and up to 3 m2 when working alone.
Installation of a log system on metal brackets
If you need to lay the floor in small room, it is better not to use the original technology. Firstly, this is an unreasonably long search for components, and secondly, the floor adjustable joists It is better to lay on an area of more than 6 m2. In smaller spaces, the savings in time and money are not so noticeable. Instead, you can use the installation of joists on metal brackets.
For installation, you need 60x60 mm timber with a moisture content of no more than 10% without traces of defects or warping. It is also necessary to acquire or manufacture metal U-shaped brackets with a wall thickness of at least 2.5 mm and a distance between the shelves corresponding to the thickness of the timber. Each shelf should have a hole with a diameter of 11 mm at a distance of 30 mm from the end.
Mark the floor with lines along which you plan to install the joists. Lay the first joist along long wall with an indentation of 20 cm, all subsequent ones - in increments of 40 cm. To splice the logs of one row, use two brackets installed in a row. Install all brackets along the marking lines and secure any of them to the concrete with two 6x60 quick-installation dowels with a mushroom edge.
When all the brackets are installed, align the lag line outermost from the wall horizontally, placing scraps of beams and wood chips under them. At the highest section of the floor, the beam should protrude above the bracket by 3–5 mm. Secure the beam through the perforations in the bracket shelves with two self-tapping screws on both sides.
Using lacing or laser level. transfer the degree of the first row to the final one, align the beams and temporarily secure them in the brackets with self-tapping screws. Tighten the lacing or use the laser adjustment on the target to align all other joists. After temporarily attaching the joists, drill them with a 12 mm drill through the holes in the brackets, insert the bolts and tighten them with a self-locking nut.
Installation of an adjustable floor on bolt stands
For floor installation original technology you need to acquire plastic bolt stands 100 or 150 mm long and metal dowel-nails 6x40 mm in an amount of about 5–6 pcs. per one m2 of floor. Special logs with holes and threads can be replaced with ordinary timber 50x50 mm with a moisture content of up to 10%, but you will need a wood drill and a machine tap with a diameter of 24 mm in increments of 3 mm.
Markings for installing joists start from the base line, which has a distance from the wall equal to the length of the plywood sheet. In rooms with normal traffic, the outermost joists should be 15 cm from the wall, the step between the remaining joists is 40–45 cm. If the load on the floor is higher than usual, the distance from the walls will be less than 10 cm, and the installation step - up to 30 cm.
Prepare the beams: drill holes in them strictly perpendicular to the surface 10 cm from the edges, then evenly distribute the remaining holes along the length so that the distance between them is no more than 40–50 cm. Use a tap to cut threads in the holes and screw the post bolts into them. When screwing in the racks, pre-adjust their length in accordance with the lifting height. Use a hex wrench to screw in the bolt posts.
Install the beams along the marking lines, orienting the posts with the hexagonal holes facing up. The ends of the joists should be 10 cm from the wall. Make preliminary adjustments with permissible error 1 cm, bringing the logs to the design height. Through the hole inside the bolt post, mark the drill spots with a long drill, then move the joists and make 6 mm holes in concrete floor to a depth of up to 50 mm.
First, secure the outer posts of the joists: lower the dowel-nail into the hole and wedge it using a hammer and a metal twig or a drill bit from a hammer drill. By rotating the fixed racks, accurately align the joists using lacing or laser markings. Twist B-pillars, until they rest against the floor, and secure them with dowel nails. Make final floor adjustments using a grade that spans at least three joists. Logs can be spliced end-to-end with a half-wood hem to a length of up to 5 cm and then fastening the joint with an M10 bolt.
Construction of the rough coating
When the logs are installed and the space between them is filled with insulation, the covering is laid. To create a strong and even surface, it is necessary to lay two layers of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm or more on the joists.
The initial layer is laid with its long side across the logs and attached to the beams with 55 mm self-tapping screws. The screw fastening spacing is 15–17 cm along the edges and 20–25 cm in the center of the sheet. Screw the fasteners no closer than 15 mm from the end of the plywood and recess the caps flush.
Another row of the first layer begins by trimming half the sheet to ensure a half-length spacing between joints. The thickness of the joints should not exceed 2–3 mm, and the distance from the walls should not exceed 15 mm. When the initial layer of plywood is laid, mark the location of the joists on the surface.
Lay the sheets of the second layer perpendicular to the sheets of the first. If necessary, trim the floor elements so that the distance between the joints in the first and second layers is at least 20 cm. Fasten the sheets together with 35 mm self-tapping screws, at least 30 pieces per 1 m2 with an installation step along the edge of 30 cm. Attach the other layer to joists with 65 mm self-tapping screws in at least 15 places per 1 m2. The permitted joint gap in the second layer is 4 mm, the distance from the walls is no more than 6 mm.
After installing the second layer of plywood, you need to remove dust and sawdust from the surface of the sheets, then apply two layers of adhesive primer, regardless of what the floor covering will be. The gaps between the slabs and from the walls need to be filled with polyurethane foam, or better yet - silicone sealant. You can lay any type of floor covering on top of the floor on adjustable joists and even perform a preparatory screed.
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home workshop
CUTTING THREAD ON WOODEN PARTS
Metalworking tools (dies and taps) are not suitable for cutting threads on wooden parts You also can’t cut threads on a simple woodworking lathe. For this you need special devices. One of them. the basis of which is a high-speed drive, was invented and made by American craftsmen. We will tell you about its structure. There is no doubt that such a device will significantly expand the technological capabilities of the home craftsman.
In combination with a wood lathe, this device (Fig. 1) replaces a metal lathe. It is "borrowing"
This device has many advantages over other sharp cutters. At high speeds (the drive used must produce at least 20,000 rpm), threads can be cut on a workpiece made of almost any wood, and thanks to the shape of the cutter (Fig. 3), threads can start very close to the shoulder of the body. And yet - this device with a high-speed drive allows you to cut threads in one pass. You can use a milling machine or drill as a drive.
To use the faceplates of a wood lathe for the jig
At the other end of the block, a socket is drilled out, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the size of the nut. In order for the latter to rotate with some effort, a wooden disk is put on it, which is pressed against the block with a latch. The clamping force is adjusted with a knurled screw (or regular) screwed into a threaded bushing glued into the block.
Then they make a cross-feed unit for the cutter - a wide carriage that moves
Derooyanny Free?dgsk Threaded nut ^ bushing \
Threaded rod
Cross Feed Base
Stannnv" device
Rice. 1. A device for cutting threads on wooden parts.
A thread with an angle of 6O of 1 profile is cut with a modified milling cutter
The drive is secured with a clamp.
To avoid vibration,
its base is bolted to the carriage
Movable cross feed unit carriage
The locking bolt removes play in the dovetail of the cross feed unit.
Insert in guide 1 swallowtail"
Stopper
Block with threaded pin
Installation nut
motionless
Thumb screw adjusting force
disk clamping
Bolts securing block with threaded rod
shaft”, the latter has a cross-feed unit for the cutter at a right angle to the workpiece, as well as the ability to install the cutter depending on the diameter of the part and the depth of the thread. The part is fed relative to the cutter by rotating the handle of the threaded rod of the longitudinal feed unit.
The “screws” and “nuts” are installed in a wedge chuck screwed to a metal faceplate that rotates with a threaded rod. The latter is fixed in a housing that moves forward/backward along the base. The housing with a stud is removable and can be replaced with another housing with a stud with a larger or smaller thread pitch.
The thread pitch on the stud determines the thread pitch on the part. True, each stud will require its own faceplate with appropriate adapters for installation on lathe to avoid re-centering the part when reinstalling it from the machine to a homemade thread-cutting device.
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To do this, you need to take a threaded pin with a length of -400 mm with the same thread as on the headstock of the machine.
At one end, a nut was screwed onto the stud with glue so that a thread remained for attaching the faceplate. The nut was secured with a locking screw. The end of the stud closest to the nut was centered.
Then you need to remove the runout of the front end of the nut. To do this, clamp the free end of the pin in the chuck of a wood lathe and press the other end with the tailstock. Rotating the chuck by hand, check that the pin does not run out, and then grind the front end of the nut with a cutter.
Then the mechanism for longitudinal feed of the part is assembled. On a drilling machine, a through hole is drilled in a block of hard wood, and a dovetail is formed along the lower edge. At the front end of the resulting block, drill a previously made hole to the thickness of the nut and, after lubricating it with glue, hammer the nut into the hole.
running on a fixed base on a dovetail guide. The base is secured with screws to the frame* of the device. On one side of the carriage, the dovetail is made with a gap into which an intermediate part of the appropriate shape is inserted. It serves as a lock for the carriage.
The thread cutting tool is made from a hand-sharpened end mill.
MANUFACTURING
WOODEN "SCREWS" AND "NUTS"
When cutting threads on wooden parts, you must remember that it is easier to cut threads on hard wood than on soft wood, and it is better to cut it along the grain rather than across it.
First, the workpiece is roughly turned on a woodworking lathe. In this case, it is important to trim the ends perpendicular to the axis so that when installing parts for threading on the fixture, the latter fit correctly into the chuck. After this, if the mating wooden parts
When performing a variety of jobs, almost everyone is faced with the need for a threaded connection. Cutting threads with dies and taps at home allows you to solve the problems of securing the necessary parts.
These tools themselves are widespread and are found in almost every home. Having the necessary set of different tools allows you to make dies on almost any connecting elements.
What is a tap?
In general, a tap is a rod with cutting edges formed by straight or helical slots. Its main purpose is to create internal threads. The tap includes a working and tail part. The working part, accordingly, contains a cutting and calibrating zone. The working part is usually made in the form of longitudinal chip grooves (sometimes in the form of helical grooves). The cutting zone has a conical shape, the calibrating zone is cylindrical. The shank is made in the form of a cylinder with a square at the end.
The cutting surface of the working part has teeth of a certain shape, which defines the thread parameters. The following parameters for sharpening teeth are distinguished: clearance angle (6-10º), rake angle (for steel - 5-15º, for bronze - 0-5º, for light alloys - 25-30º). Taps are produced with different surface processing precision, which determines the accuracy class when cutting threads.
Taps are divided by shape - cylindrical and conical; by purpose - manual, machine and wrench; in terms of completeness - single and complex (a set of 3-4 pieces for sequential production of threads with an increased pitch). The main material for taps is U10A and U23A steel.
The selection of a tap is made according to the following parameters: pitch and depth, diameter of the hole to be cut, type of hole (blind, through), accuracy class. In addition, according to the material being processed, taps are divided into types: for light alloys, for stainless steels, for carbon steel and cast iron.
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What is a die?
In general, a die (die) is a cutting tool for making external threads. It is made in the form of a very strong nut, in the hole of which cutting edges with teeth are made. The teeth are arranged so that they form a coil. The cutting part of the die is formed as an internal cone. The thickness of the die is usually 8-10 teeth (turns).
Dies are divided by type - solid, split and sliding; in shape - round, square, hexagonal, prismatic. For manual slicing, solid round ones are most often used. For fastening in the holder (collar), up to five recesses (grooves) are made on the surface of the round die.
The die hole forms a working part consisting of three zones. At the top and bottom of the working area there are conical sections - cutting zones. In the central part, the cylindrical section forms a calibration zone. The taper angle of the cutting zones is 50-60º. The shape of the cutting tooth is set by the rake sharpening angle within 15-20º (for carbon steels) and the rear angle within 6-8º.
The round die is designed for cutting metric, inch and pipe threads. The dies ensure cutting with an accuracy of at least second class. One of the main features of the use of dies is that all three zones of the working area are involved in the formation process.
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Thread Features
In general, cutting a thread means cutting a helical groove along a surface that has a cylindrical or conical shape. Based on the location of the surface, threads are divided into external (screw, bolt) and internal (nut). According to its purpose, the thread can be fastening or running. The profile shape can be triangular, rectangular and trapezoidal. The direction can be left or right.
The fastening thread is mainly triangular and is made on fastening parts. Chassis with a complex profile and manual cutting is extremely rare.
The main parameters include:
- outside diameter;
- elevation angle;
- profile angle.
In terms of their appearance, metric, inch and pipe threads are of greatest interest. Metric has a triangular profile, like a cylindrical fastening thread with fine and coarse pitch. Metric is used most often. Its main parameter is the thread profile angle, which should be equal to 60º. Pipe has a cylindrical shape and is used to connect tubular parts.
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Devices and accessories
Thread cutting is carried out by rotation and translational movement of the corresponding tool. To perform work with dies and taps, you need to secure them, direct them in the desired direction, and also ensure their simultaneous rotation and slow translational movement. For these purposes, special devices or devices are used.
Cutting external threads with dies is done using a die holder (collar). This device is a sleeve with handles on both sides. 4-6 threaded holes are drilled in the bushing, into which screws (bolts) are screwed in to secure the die inside the die holder bushing. To cut a thread, the die is inserted into the sleeve and firmly secured with screws. When fastening, the die is centered relative to the holder axis. Handles allow you to create torque manually.
When cutting internal threads with taps, wrenches are used. Such a device has a square socket in the center into which the end of the tap shank is inserted, as well as two handles for turning it manually. The fixing screws allow you to securely secure the tap into the device.
The problem of leveling the base is always relevant when laying modern finishing coatings. There are several effective ways, one of them is a rough adjustable floor. This structure consists of wooden logs fixed to supports, with flooring, such as plywood, laid on top. This system allows you to level the surface with high accuracy. This method is very simple, so anyone can make adjustable floors with their own hands.
Types of adjustable floors
Structurally, there are two types based on the leveling mechanism: with studs and adjustable plywood. The first option involves the use of beams on which the flooring is installed. In turn, the logs are secured to studs, which allow adjustment of the floor level. The second method involves attaching the coating directly to the control mechanism without intermediate elements.
Fig.1.
Installing a floor using joists is used when it is necessary to level and raise its level to a height of 5 to 20 cm, for example, this is relevant for a balcony and loggia, when the height difference can reach 15 cm or more. If you only need to create a flat surface, it is advisable to choose the option without beams.
Plastic rack bolts, an anchor for an adjustable floor, metal studs, corners, etc. can be used as the main supports.
Fig.2.
Fig.3.
Fig.4.
Fig.5.
Fig.6.
Fig.7.
Fig.8.
Advantages and disadvantages
Adjustable floors were invented as an analogue of cement-sand screed. They possess almost all of its properties and have a number of advantages that are not characteristic of it.
- The absence of a water-based solution eliminates leaks, prolonged drying, and makes it possible to perform work at low temperatures. An adjustable floor in an apartment is used as an alternative to cement screed.
- After assembly, you can immediately lay the floor covering.
- The raised floor always has an underground space. It can contain communications (plumbing, heating, electrical wiring, etc.), thermal insulation and sound insulation.
- The structure is lightweight and can be used in rooms with low load-bearing capacity of the floor, for example, a loggia, balcony, etc.
- Plywood floors on joists are perfect for laying various heating options. Water and electrical systems of all types can be used together with them.
- The adjustable floor is durable and strong, and can be used with any floor covering.
- Its cost is low due to the use of inexpensive materials and components.
- Installing plywood on the floor is very simple. You can make your own flooring using traditional building materials.
The adjustable subfloor does not tolerate high humidity. Therefore, it is not recommended to install it in bathrooms and toilets. This circumstance is probably the only drawback.
Where and when can it be used
Considering the design features, advantages and disadvantages, we can conclude that this type of flooring is advisable to use when:
- It is necessary to level the surface and significantly raise its level, and the base does not allow for a thick layer of screed. The height of the level rise can reach 20 cm.
- It is necessary to lay communications, for example, heating pipes, under the raised floor.
- It is necessary to make thermal insulation or sound insulation.
- The design of the room provides areas with different floor levels.
Adjustable floors with plastic bolts
You can purchase a ready-made kit. These are floors using a new technology called dnt. The kit includes plastic bolts - supports for joists and fasteners. Using this kit it is very easy to assemble the cover.
Fig.9.
For installation, holes are made in the bars with a pitch of 50 cm and threads are cut for adjustable screw supports. After which the bolt is screwed into the block. Next, the beams are placed parallel to each other in increments of 40–50 cm and a hole is drilled directly through the bolt in the base and secured with an anchor.
Fig. 10.
Rotating the plastic support achieves the desired position of the beams. The protruding part of the bolt is cut off with a chisel. This is how the floor joists are installed.
The principle of installing adjustable plywood is similar to the previous method. Holes are drilled in it at 50 cm intervals and the flange is fixed coaxially. It is threaded, so the plastic bolt can easily move up and down, thereby setting the required level of floor elevation. A dowel is attached to the base of the support - a nail.
Fig. 11.
DNT is a great way. However, despite all the advantages, there is still one drawback - it is not available in all regions. Therefore, an adjustable floor anchor is often used, which can be purchased at any hardware store.
Adjustable floors with anchors
In this type, an adjustable support based on a wedge anchor is used. Floor timber is used with a section of 50x50 mm. The fastener for the joists consists of an anchor, two nuts and two washers.
Holes are drilled at 50 cm intervals at the base of the floor and anchors are secured. Nuts are screwed onto them and washers are put on.
Fig. 12.
Holes are made in the bars with a pitch of 50 cm. In each of them, a counterbore is made with a diameter of 20-25 mm and a depth of 10 mm to install the upper nut and washer in a countersunk area so that they do not interfere with the flooring. Next, the floor joists are placed on the anchors. Thus, the nut and washer are on the bottom side. By rotating the nut you can adjust the position of the beams. The top nut is necessary for secure fixation.
After installing and securing all the beams, the protruding parts of the studs are cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw.
Fig. 13.
Adjustable plywood is installed using a similar scheme. The difference in the installation technology is that before laying all the support nuts are pre-installed to the same required level.
Fig. 14.
Flooring options
The materials for installing an adjustable floor can be different. Traditionally, sheet materials are used such as plywood, fiberboard, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board, OSB, etc. The choice in favor of one option or another depends on the type of finishing floor covering and operating conditions.
Typically plywood is used as flooring. It is well suited for laying linoleum or laminate. A two-layer version can be used, in which case the thickness of the sheet material must be at least 12 mm, or a single-layer version, in which case sheets of at least 20 mm are used. The last method is used for a system without lag.
Fig. 15.
With a two-layer flooring, the layers are fixed with an offset of at least a third of the length of the sheet, thus increasing rigidity.
If tiles are planned as a floor covering, then the flooring can be made of gypsum fiber board or gypsum fiber board or analogues. This is due to the fact that these materials are not afraid of moisture and have high rigidity.
Fig. 16.
If a wooden floor covering is intended, then a tongue-and-groove board is laid directly on the joists. It is laid across the bars and secured with screws through the tongue. To ensure that the Euroboard does not play and the structure is rigid, the thickness of the flooring should be chosen from 30 mm.
Fig. 17.
Adjustable floors made from scrap materials
It often happens that it is difficult to purchase the necessary components described above. In this case, the bracket for the joists can be made using studs or metal corners. All other technology is the same as in traditional methods.
Adjustable floor with stiletto heels
Installation of joists on a concrete floor is carried out using a driven brass anchor, studs, two nuts and two washers. This is how you make the simplest support yourself. A pin with a diameter of 8 mm is used. The remaining elements are selected in the appropriate size.
Fig. 18.
A hole is drilled in the floor and an anchor is installed. A pin is screwed into it. A nut is screwed onto it and a washer is put on. The upper nut is used to secure the bar. After the final installation of the log, the part of the support protruding above it is cut off.
Installing the anchors is the most difficult part of installing an adjustable stud floor. The floor slab is hollow, and the anchor can fall into its cavity, so it should not be deeply buried in the floor.
Adjustable floor at corners
Angles are used as an adjustable support; they are secured to the dowel with nails or self-tapping screws. The size of the corners is chosen depending on the level of the floor, but not less than 50x50 mm.
Metal corners are fixed along the lag installation line in 50 cm increments. The bars are attached to them while simultaneously setting them to the required level. This work can be easily done by two people.
Fig. 19.
In order for the structure to be as rigid as possible, the corners are installed on both sides of the bar.
Adjustable floors with heated floors
All types of heated floors can be used, the installation scheme of which depends on the finishing coating.
Water heated floors are the most versatile. They are installed under the raised flooring on top of the heat insulator. In this case, any decorative coating can be used.
Fig.20.
You can do the same with underfloor heating based on an electric heating cable. This approach works well for any floor covering. However, if ceramic tiles are planned, then more efficient operation of the heated floor will be achieved if the heating cable is laid under the tiles on top of the flooring.
Warm floors based on infrared heating elements are performed differently. When laying laminate, the film is laid directly under it.
Fig.21.
In the case of ceramic tiles or linoleum, the heating element is placed between layers of plywood or OSB.
We looked at several options for installing adjustable floors. From an economic point of view, the most successful option is stiletto heels. From the point of view of ease of execution - on the corners. The bolted method is a compromise of high accuracy and ease of installation, but the cost of the installation kit is quite high. Regardless of which raised floor you choose, this technology will significantly reduce repair time, and as a result you will receive a smooth, strong and reliable base suitable for laying any decorative covering.