Preparations for shashel: proven folk remedies and industrial solutions. Shashel or wood-boring beetle: photo of the insect, how to recognize its presence and how to get rid of it How to remove shashel from ceiling sheathing boards

Subscribe
Join the “koon.ru” community!
In contact with:

Ecology of consumption: The shashel woodborer is a pest that settles in trees and makes through passages. If you don’t start the fight in time, then all that’s left of the tree is dust. The shawl beetle can

The wood-boring shawl is a pest that settles in trees and makes through passages. If you don’t start the fight in time, then all that’s left of the tree is dust. The shawl beetle can settle in trees in the garden and on furniture at home. The most effective method of control is to simply burn the infected wood, but, unfortunately, this is not always possible.

You will need
- sodium fluoride;
- sodium fluoride;
- spray bottle;
- brush;
- turpentine;
- wax;
- kerosene;
- paraffin;
- creolin;
- naphthalene;
- gasoline;
- Vaseline oil;
- green soap;
- industrial insecticides.

Instructions:

1. If you are buying timber for construction, carefully inspect the wood. If you find tunnels eaten by the pest, it is better to refuse the purchase, since it is very difficult to cope with large volumes of infected wood. And during construction, everything from it will collapse, and in a few years only dust will remain from the tree.

2. If you find a beetle on furniture or fruit trees, immediately treat it with sodium fluoride or sodium fluoride. You can buy these drugs in the department of gardeners and gardeners. To use, dilute 250 g of one of the products in 12 liters hot water, stir, cool, stir again, pour the solution into a garden spray bottle and spray the trees. To use the product at home, put on gloves, dampen a rag and wipe down all your furniture.

3. A mixture of turpentine, wax, paraffin and creolin helps well against beetles. To prepare the product, take 1 liter of turpentine, 50 g of wax, 50 g of paraffin, 30 g of creolin, stir, lubricate all furniture. Treat all furniture, and not just the locations of detected passages. On garden trees use a heated solution and apply with a brush.

4. You can also prepare a solution from 3 liters of turpentine, 1 liter of kerosene, 100 g of naphthalene, 1 liter of gasoline, 1 liter of petroleum jelly and 2 pieces of melted green soap. Stir the product thoroughly, wipe the furniture with a sponge or rag, treat the trees, applying the solution with a brush.

5. After treatment, melt clean paraffin or wax and cover the passages with a brush. After one week, repeat the treatment with one of the solutions and cover the passages again. Do this several times until you notice that new moves do not appear.

6. To combat the beetle, you can use industrial insecticides: “Antizhuk”, Basilit-B, “Antishashelin”, Impralit or any others. Careful treatment of wood with these means helps remove the beetle, and preventative treatment protects the wood for 20-25 years. published

Wooden log houses made of rounded logs or timber are at the peak of popularity today. And, building a dacha or Vacation home, All more people give preference to wooden buildings. These houses are warm, eco-friendly and practical. In addition, every home has wooden furniture, which makes the interior cozy and has a long service life.

But not everyone is a fan wooden houses and beautiful wooden furniture are aware of the danger that may await them. We will talk about the shashel - a beetle that can not only lead to damage to furniture, but also to significant damage to the house, even destruction.

Shashel: general description of the pest, damage caused

Shashel (wood borer, grinder) settles in wood and makes through passages in it. As a result, over time the tree simply turns into dust. Moreover, it is not the adult individuals that pose the danger, but the shashel larvae. The larva first gnaws through the wood, penetrating inside. In this field, holes are clearly visible on the surface. Having had enough, the larva begins its journey back to the surface, gnawing through the passage. At the same time, it leaves a protective upper layer approximately 1 mm. Now the larva returns deep again and prepares for pupation and degeneration into a beetle.


The question arises, how is this small insect may eat such an inappropriate product. The digestive system of shashel is designed in such a way that cellulose is broken down into smaller particles that are easily digestible. And the enzymes of the digestive tract make it possible to digest such coarse fibers that even more highly organized animals cannot cope with.

Life cycle shashel from several months to several years, it depends on the species characteristics. Damage to wood by shashel occurs very quickly; within a year, the results of its vigorous activity will not be hidden. One larva per day builds a tunnel with a length of 15-30 mm, and given that some species can remain in the larval state for several years, this figure will fit into kilometers. At the same time, the larva grows intensively and the holes it gnaws become larger.

Another sign that a shashel has started will be wood dust under wooden products. Woodworms prefer pine, but they will not neglect other types of wood.

There are 2 types of shashel: furniture and house. Both species pose dangers to wood products. Adults can continue to live in the passages they have gnawed, but they do not feed on wood. You can tell that there is a shashel in the house by its characteristic sounds. During mating, they hit their heads on the surface of the wood, resulting in a sound reminiscent of a ticking clock. Although the location of the grinder is easy to find, getting rid of it is a real problem. Moreover, when you find adult beetles in the house, this means that the grinder has settled in your home a long time ago and has already managed to do a fair amount of mischief. Adult beetles are brown or black in color. Length from 2 to 9 mm.

Grinders are very loving. The pheromones released by the male can attract many females located at a considerable distance. One clutch of a female can reach 200-300 eggs at a time. She lays eggs in the pores, cracks and blockages of wood. After 2-3 weeks, the larvae hatch from the eggs and immediately begin to wear away the wood. The adult shawl beetle does not feed at all; its vital activity is ensured thanks to the nutritional reserves accumulated during the larval period. The main goal of an adult beetle is active reproduction, which is what it actually does.

Shashel can also chew through anything that contains cellulose: cardboard, plywood, books, etc. There are cases where shashel damaged even dry plaster.

Shashel is widespread; it can penetrate into absolutely any home from the outside. The sanitary condition of the home and other provoking factors for other insects do not play any role. It is important for these pests that there is food in the house, and the only food for them is wood.

Purchasing timber for construction work, carefully inspect the material. If at least one hole is found, it is better to refuse the purchase and place an order elsewhere.

Additional precautions.

  • At least once a year, conduct a thorough inspection of all wooden surfaces.
  • If a shashel is detected, action must be taken immediately.
  • Favorable conditions for propagation of shashel - high humidity, so make sure there is no dampness in the room.
  • During construction, only new wood that is not affected by pests and cleared of bark should be used. There is no need to skimp on boards, since the appearance of the shashel will cost much more.
  • If wooden elements affected by shashel are replaced with new ones, then the old wood must be burned, excluding the resettlement of larvae.

Ways to get rid of shashel, independent methods.

The fight against shawl that has taken a fancy to your home begins with searching for places where the larvae are located. Carefully check everything wooden in the house: floors, furniture, walls. Don't ignore and upholstered furniture, the parts inside are made of solid timber and may well become a haven for these pests. It happens that you have to disassemble furniture to determine where the pest is based. If a beam is damaged by a grinder, then after a few years it will remain in dust.

If shashel is found on furniture or on trees in the garden, it is necessary to treat it with fluoride and sodium fluoride. These preparations are sold in specialized stores for gardeners. The drug is diluted at the rate of 250 grams per bucket. The drug is being poured hot water. Affected trees are treated with a spray bottle, and to treat furniture, soak a rag in the solution and wipe everything well. All furniture needs to be treated, even those that have not been damaged.

In the fight against the grinder, a mixture of turpentine (1 l), wax (50 g), creolin (30 g) and paraffin (50 g) can be useful. Furniture and trees are treated with this solution. The solution must be applied to trees while heated using a brush. It is worth noting that using this method can be hazardous to health.

You can also prepare a solution based on gasoline and Vaseline. You need to mix Vaseline oil (liter), melted laundry soap (2 pieces), gasoline (liter), kerosene (liter), naphthalene (100 grams). Furniture is treated with a sponge soaked in a solution, and trees with a brush. After this, cover all the passages with melted paraffin. After a week, the procedure will need to be repeated. Keep in mind that a certain number of larvae are retained when using this method. Therefore, the procedure will have to be repeated periodically every six months to a year.

There are quite a few industrial insecticides, which are designed to fight shashel. Both young wood and already damaged old wood are impregnated with these preparations. The most popular drugs in this area are: “Anti-bug”, “Drevotox”, “Antishashelin”, “Empire 20”. But these methods have not proven their effectiveness.

It is no secret that it is better to predict and prevent a problem than to struggle with the consequences of a disaster for a long time and often unsuccessfully. Therefore, preventive protection of wood from damage by shashel is something that should not be neglected. Preventative protection consists of processing timber, beams, boards and other wooden elements special compounds, which are insecticides and antiseptics. Most often, this organic solvents, which are used in for preventive purposes and for additional protection.

Professional methods of fighting cabbage: fumigation with phosphine and microwave disinsection

Considering the scale of damage that shashel can cause, it is better not to indulge in experiments, but to entrust the solution to the problem to specialists. Moreover, this problem can arise not only in the home, but also in production, damaging products. Only professional treatment can get rid of shashel with a 100% guarantee.

Treatment of shashel using the fumigation method is an unsafe procedure in the hands of non-professionals, but very effective. Phosphine is a dangerous gas and should only be handled by specialists. All manipulations are carried out in special protective suits. Belongs to the first hazard class. It must be said that the procedure is not cheap, and if you are offered fumigation for little money, then you should not believe it. Most likely, the room will simply be treated with dry fog, and the problem will soon reappear.

The main advantages of phosphine fumigation:

  • A high degree of permeability makes it possible to infect insects located even in deep layers of wood.
  • Phosphine has a high degree of toxicity, so it can be used not only against insects, but also for rodent control.
  • The gas, penetrating the body of an animal or insect, affects all systems and organs, leaving no chance of survival.

In the fight against shawl by fumigation, the following drugs are used: magtoxin and phostoxin.

Magtoxin is a preparation based on magnesium phosphide, ammonium carbamate and paraffins. When exposed to air, magtoxin releases hydrogen phosphide, which has high insecticidal activity. Magtoxin decomposes quickly almost completely, and the residual dust does not contain metal phosphide. This cannot be said about other drugs of the phosphide group.

Fumigation with magtoxin is intended for warehouses and storage facilities that occupy large areas. The fumigation time depends on the area of ​​the room and its gas permeability. No traces remain on the treated surface. Through ventilation after such treatment should last 3-6 hours. If safety precautions are followed, Magtoxin is completely safe for specialists working with it.

Phostoxin is a fumigant with a high content of aluminum phosphide. Gas can penetrate under sealed packages. Since the gas interacts with copper, silver and gold, they must be protected during processing. Used for processing warehouses and storage facilities.

Microwave method (MW)- This is a way to get rid of shashel in residential premises. The microwave emitter is standalone installation carrying out disinfestation of premises. Ideal for fighting insects, including shawl, in everyday life. Of course, you can purchase a similar device and carry out disinfection of premises on our own, but there are a number of nuances that can be missed without special knowledge.

  1. There are many types of shashel, each with its own characteristics. For example, each type has its own depth of penetration into wood. The heating temperature of the room depends on this, which the specialist will select optimally.
  2. Heating the entire room is impractical and costly. Professionals know exactly where and with what power to warm up.
  3. Additionally, equipment will be required to identify foci of the spread of shashel.
  4. You need to work taking into account the heat transfer coefficient of the material, so you will need a laser pyrometer.
  5. It is necessary to strictly follow safety precautions when working with equipment.
  6. To prevent the wiring from catching fire and communications from being damaged, heating should be carried out at a certain angle.
  7. The equipment is expensive and its purchase will be impractical. It will be cheaper to invite specialists and solve the problem once.

Microwave rays, affecting insects, completely destroy them. At the same time, there is no negative influence They do not affect wood. The main difference between microwave and chemical treatment is the local effect on the specific area being treated. The room temperature does not increase during microwave operation. By affecting a specific area, microwave rays provoke vibration of water molecules, which leads to heating of the wood to the required 56 C°. This temperature is sufficient to completely destroy the eggs, larvae and adults of the shawl. The equipment is completely safe for others during the treatment of household evacuation and household appliances not required. Today microwave is the most effective method getting rid of shashel in residential premises.

Shashel is a wood-boring beetle whose larvae feed on wood. This is why the insect causes a lot of harm to its owners. country houses and cottages from natural wood. But if your home is built of brick, this does not mean that you will never encounter shashel; it can damage wooden furniture. In this article we will tell you how to get rid of this annoying “neighbor”.

First you need to make sure that the insect that is ruining your furniture is really a fly. If you hear a characteristic tapping sound at night, similar to the ticking of a clock, you can safely say that a shashel lives in your neighborhood. The adult does not feed on wood; only insect larvae are dangerous for wooden houses. If during the construction of a house you find passages inside the timber, return the product to the store. In just a few years, there will be nothing left of the house but rubble. If you find woodworm in furniture or garden trees, use sodium fluoride. To prepare the solution, pour 250 g of the substance into a bucket of hot water. Stir the mixture, and after cooling, treat the surface of the wood with it. To treat fruit trees, use a spray bottle. To kill woodworms in furniture, wipe its surface with the prepared solution. Make sure that the product gets into all the cracks. You can cope with the pest using turpentine and creolin. To prepare the mixture, dissolve 50 g of wax in 1 liter of turpentine. It can be taken from a regular candle. After this, pour 50 g of creolin into the mixture. As a result, you will end up with a solution that feels greasy to the touch. Treat all the furniture with the product, coat the cracks and recesses, and use a syringe without a needle to treat the passages. Take a little substance into it and fill the hole made by the shawl larva with it. Apply the mixture to the fruit tree using a brush. There is one more effective remedy based on turpentine. To prepare the poison, heat 3 liters of turpentine and pour 1 liter of kerosene, gasoline and petroleum jelly into it. Add 100 g of naphthalene and two pieces of soap, previously ground on a grater, to the mixture. Wipe all furniture with this product. It has bad smell, so it is advisable to take the furniture outside or not close the windows in the house for several days. Apply the mixture to the wood with a brush.


After processing, melt the paraffin in a water bath and pour it over all the passages you find. This product will close the exit of the larva, which will soon lead to its death. After a week, treat the furniture with the mixture again and fill the holes made by the pest with wax. Repeat the manipulation once a week until new moves stop appearing. After a while, you will no longer hear the characteristic sound at night.


You don’t have to experiment and buy special remedy at a hardware store. Nowadays, the most popular woodworm poisons in the retail chain are: anti-shashelin, anti-beetle, Impralit. These substances are used not only to combat beetles, but also for prevention purposes. Apply these poisons once a year to wooden crafts And fruit trees, and you will forget about shashel forever.

What insects are the most dangerous for wood and what do you need to know about the larvae of wood pests? Is it possible to detect the presence of insects in lumber or structure? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

You will also learn about methods of combating insects that have infested your home or furniture.

Tree pests

The most terrible scourge of wood is termite, bark beetle and shashel (woodworm). Wood beetles act quickly and render wood unusable in 2-3 seasons. Termite colony destroys rafter system for 1–2 seasons. It is precisely because of the speed of movement and omnivory that tree beetles can be “infectious,” that is, they can move to a clean, uninfected forest and lay larvae.

Shashel or woodworm

This pest is also called the “grinder beetle.” However, it is not the beetle itself that is dangerous (adults do not live long and do not feed on anything), but its larva. Shashel larvae have a loose structure and developed jaws, with which they grind wood fibers using nutrients of them.

Bark beetle

This beetle also feeds on oxidized wood - the most “delicious” areas for it are located where the bark adjoins the clean fibers.

Termite or white ant

Insects live in large colonies with excellent organization. The species diversity of these insects is amazing - about 3000 species. Distinctive feature termites are that they move hidden, making passages underground or in the body of wood. Therefore, the termite mound, built in wooden structure, seemingly invisible.

How to identify tree infestation

Lumber affected by insects has characteristic differences:

  • visible remains of tunnels under the bark of the wane - bark beetle;
  • abnormal lightness of the board, holes Ø 2–5 mm on the surface, while the board appears intact, there are no moves - termite or shashel;
  • wood flour (dust), sometimes black-brown in color - all insects.

Wood affected by pests is “not treated”, because insects always strive to capture the largest space and are distributed throughout the entire element or structure, as long as their number is sufficient. If signs of a beetle are detected, you should refuse to purchase the material. If the beetle is found in existing stocks, the material should be rejected and the infested products should be burned.

The presence of larvae in an existing structure can be determined by ear - they make a characteristic grinding or tapping sound as they bite into the wood. In the old days, this sound was called the “death clock”, because practically nothing was known about the possibility of fighting.

Pest control methods

All methods of countering wood insects can be divided into preventive and operational.

Preventive action

This category includes actions for pre-processing lumber, i.e. before it enters the composition building structure. These methods prevent the formation of fungus and make the wood unsuitable for insects.

On-site antiseptic treatment. The simplest, cheapest and at the same time the most weak method protection. Usually the composition is simply applied to the surface of the wood at the place of storage or immediately before use. For ease of use you have to “pay” with a shallow penetration depth - up to 1 mm. Moreover, any antiseptic has a validity period, usually from 1 to 5 years. After 5 years, any antiseptic is guaranteed to be neutralized and the structure requires re-treatment.

Heat treatment. This method involves heating in sealed heat chambers. In this case, the products are heated to 140 °C, but the lack of oxygen prevents the wood from igniting. The body of the tree is disinfected and the nutrients for insects (sugar, starch) disintegrate; they are no longer “interested” in such a tree. Calcination gives a series interesting benefits- evaporation excess moisture compacts the material and it becomes harder, and the surface is slightly charred - up to 1 micron (0.1 mm). Firing costs 40 to 50% of the price of wood.

Autoclave. Most effective method disinfection and antiseptic treatment of wood - autoclave impregnation. It is used when processing the most valuable products - laminated veneer lumber and laminated laminated beams. The product is placed in a sealed container filled with an antiseptic, into which pressure is then applied to 100 atm. Under pressure, the substance penetrates into the structure of the fibers, and they become completely “inedible” (unsuitable) for insects and fungi. Autoclave impregnation will increase the cost of the product by 50–80% (depending on the substance).

Operational measures

These methods are used in emergency cases- when the beetle has already wound up in existing structure. These measures do not give a 100% effect; rather, we are talking about 50% of cases when the development (reproduction) of insects can be stopped. If it is not possible to replace an element, then both old “old-fashioned” and modern technological methods will come to the rescue.

Injection

The most labor-intensive, but quite effective way to combat larvae. To implement it, you will need a basic chemical - a solution of sodium fluoride or sodium fluoride, which can be purchased at a fertilizer store. The method is applicable if inlets are available.

Operating procedure:

  1. Prepare a solution of sodium fluoride - 250 ml of concentrate per 3 liters of water.
  2. Clean and blow out the inlet openings with a syringe.
  3. Prepare a paste of bread and concentrate.
  4. Using a syringe, inject the solution into the larvae's passage.
  5. Seal the hole with “putty” made from poisoned bread, if possible, so that the solution remains inside.

Injection will remove wood flour from the passage. The vapors of the solution and the soaked walls of the passage will force the larva to look for an urgent (during the day) exit and it will try to crawl back along the familiar passage. To get out, she will need to chew through the cork of the poisoned bread. All. It looks like a fairy tale or a comic book, but the method was invented and made public by a summer resident biologist.

Tapping

If the shashel or bark beetle is infested in the floor or wooden wall, such a simple method as tapping will help. It is quite effective, especially if there are no entry holes on the visible surface. It is better to tap a plane or structure through a block so as not to leave marks from a mallet or hammer. The harder and more often you work on the block, the better the effect will be.

The larvae of shashel, bark beetle and termite consist of 85% moisture, have a loose structure and are not adapted to vibration. The water, vibrating from the impact in their soft shell, simply tears them apart, leaving only mucus. Practice has shown that where the larvae die, new insects do not appear.

Microwave processing

The moisture that makes up the larvae contains processed nutrients, in particular protein, which coagulates when heated to 56 °C. In other words, if you heat the structure to just 58–60 °C, any larvae will die, because the protein in them will simply coagulate. Heat the structure traditional methods is not possible, but modern technology makes it possible to do this using microwaves, which are used in the familiar household microwave oven.

To implement the method, you will need a working microwave oven, which will be irrevocably converted into a unit for combating shashel. Considering the method is 100% effective and harmless, this is a small price to pay.

Operating procedure:

  1. Cut off the side wall of the microwave oven opposite the magnetron (usually it is located on the wall with the control panel).
  2. Determine by ear and mark with a marker the location of the larvae.
  3. Install the device, pointing the open part (socket) to the site of the larva lesion. The gap between the socket and the surface of the wood is 20–30 mm. The device must be connected in an adjacent room.

Attention! Invisible microwaves cause any protein to coagulate, including the eye protein. Being in the same room as a working device is extremely dangerous. Staying in the next room is absolutely safe.

  1. Set the timer for 20 minutes and go into the next room to connect the device.
  2. Plug in the device and wait 20 minutes.
  3. After the shutdown timer has triggered, move the device to the next prevention point.

The most effective method will be complete prevention - wave treatment of the entire structure.

Conclusion

Fungus and rot are also dangerous, but their action requires a lot of time and appropriate conditions (heat, dampness, stagnant air). Therefore, natural defects develop much more slowly and it is possible to stop them in time.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Among wood pest beetles well known Shashel. Adults communicate with each other using a very loud sound. They can be detected by touching your head to a tree, usually at night, and hearing a sound like someone sawing something. Adults are reddish to dark brown and lay eggs in crevices or small holes or pores in untreated (unprotected) wood. It may take two years for each generation to complete the cycle. That's why get rid of from them and completely destroy by ordinary means difficult.

Shashel - beetles found primarily in softwood, including beams, walls, foundation wood, and some types of furniture. They may even attack books. This wood pest usually found in wood that is old and partially decaying. Shashel prefer wood that has more than 14% moisture content. Larvae Zhukov fill their passages gnawed deep in the tree with excrement, which spills onto the floor and resembles fine gray-brown wood dust.

Ways to combat shashel difficult once the infection has begun. Prevention is the best way management. Protective measures must be taken at all stages of processing wood, including sawmills, lumber and furniture mills and factories, and construction companies. Sanitation is the most important aspect prevention. Destroy dead parts of trees (before they become infested) near buildings or near any area where timber is stored. Drying lumber helps get rid of from Zhukov pests, although this does not prevent re-infection. Materials used for the construction of buildings and wooden furniture must be carefully tested before use to ensure that they do not contain wood pest. Protection wood from infection - painting or varnishing to seal pores, cracks and holes where eggs may be laid.

So as not to accidentally bring shashelya, inspect furniture and other wooden objects before they enter your home. As fight against shashel You can fumigate items that show signs of infection beetle. Small wooden items (but not those containing fabrics, hides, or paints) can be heated in an oven at 50-60°C for 6 hours or placed in a freezer at -17°C for 72 hours. Longer treatment may be required if the tree is thicker than 2 inches.

Ways to combat shashel:

Remove and replace contaminated structural wood parts. Destroy infected wood. Where removal is not possible, use liquid insecticides that are labeled to control these pests, such as NEOMID 100 Anti-Bug Biocide. Apply only to infested areas. But be sure that you thoroughly saturate all surfaces, applying 3-4 layers of the composition. And also, using a construction syringe, inject the Anti-Beetle composition into all the holes bored out shashel V wood, so that get rid of from the larvae inside. The penetration depth is enhanced in damp wood, if the humidity is less than 15%, the penetration can only be 1 cm.
Be sure to follow the instructions on the label. Wear necessary protective clothing and respiratory protection.

For the treatment of extensive wood damage and infestations shashelya inside a building, or where treatment of structural parts of the building is not available, order fumigation of the entire building. Many professional operators offer this struggle With pest beetles.

Return

×
Join the “koon.ru” community!
In contact with:
I am already subscribed to the community “koon.ru”