Processing lilies in autumn. How to store planting material in winter? Care after lily bloom

WHAT TO DO WITH LILY BULBS AFTER FLOWERING? What care do lilies require after flowering, what to do next with these bulbous plants so that they multiply and give buds every year, a question that worries many novice gardeners. This beautiful flowers who love fertile dry patches of soil in a sunny, blown area with a light diffused shadow. In order for lilies to multiply well, they can be planted on the south or west side of the house, protecting them from the north wind. Lilies can be divided into early, mid-late and late varieties. Asian hybrids bloom first, LA hybrids bloom 10 days after them, followed by all other varieties. In August, Orientals delight with their flowering. If you plant several varieties, you can get a flower bed with lilies that will bloom from early July to mid-August. The main flowering occurs in July.

HOW TO CARE FOR PLANTS IN THE GROUND? All work with lily bulbs should be started in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, and completed during the budding period. When lilies bloom, they can be dug up and replanted. On the trading floors in July, you can see lilies in bloom, dug out of the ground and sold along with the bulb. At this time, they can be transplanted into pots or soil. Such a transplant does not prevent the plant from developing properly. After it fades and begins to form a new root tuber, it is not recommended to touch it. Lily stems cannot be cut at the root. In this culture, as in all tuber-forming plants, they are used to accumulate nutrients, which after flowering completely pass into the root. If the stem is removed, the bulb will be defective. It may die in winter or split into scales and not bloom next year. Faded buds should be cut off immediately after flowering, so that a box does not form on them. Then the bulb begins to work for itself. She starts the process of outflow of nutrients from the leaves and stem to the root tuber. With a preserved peduncle with a box, the bulb will continue to work on the formation of seeds and is completely depleted. She will not be able to overwinter. The dried stem is not cut, but broken and left in this form until spring. A dried peduncle will remind you that there is a lily in this place. A successfully overwintered bulb will release a dense sprout in the spring, which will appear near the stump. Then it will not be needed, it can be completely removed. If lilies are cut for a bouquet, then you need to choose a large inflorescence with 5 or more buds. In such flowers, the bulb has reached maximum dimensions and will be able to survive after cutting. The peduncle is cut 20 cm above the ground to leave the plant with some of the nutrients. After removing the buds, she will need at least 40 days to ripen. When cutting a peduncle with a smaller number of buds, a small-sized bulb does not have time to ripen and disappears in winter due to a lack of nutrients. After flowering, all varieties are left in the ground until autumn. They fall asleep, accumulate nutrients and begin to form a new bulb, which should bloom the next year. If at this moment their development is disturbed, then the bulb will disappear. It will break up into scales, from which it is formed a large number of kids. They will release buds only in a year. Therefore, the main rule for a gardener is to create all the conditions for a flower to ripen into a dormant state.

Caring for lilies after flowering comes down to removing weeds. Loosening the soil is not recommended, so as not to damage the bulbs. During the period of accumulation of nutrients, flowers need watering and fertilizing with liquid fertilizers. Many varieties of Asiatic lilies overwinter in the ground during mild, not too frosty winters. These flowers need shelter from snow and fallen leaves. They breed well in one place and after a few years form large colonies that require a transplant. Hybrids brought from America and tropical countries do not tolerate frost well and die during snowmelt, when day and night temperatures are very different from each other. These varieties should be dug up in autumn before the first frost and stored in suitable places. HOW TO WORK WITH HEAT-LOVING VARIETIES? Anyone who knows how to care for lilies after flowering receives a large amount of planting material in a few years, because these plants form colonies around themselves.

Heat-loving bulbs, which include hybrids brought from other continents, do not tolerate the Russian winter. They freeze out during the harsh months, and they need to be removed from the flower bed in late autumn, when the root tuber is already fully formed. The flower is dug out of the ground when night temperatures have not yet begun to go into minus. In some regions, tubular lily bulbs are harvested at the end of August, in others - mid-September is more suitable for this. The plant is found by the remains of a dry peduncle. Digging up the bulbs and preparing them for storage is as follows: the remains of dry leaves are removed; a bayonet shovel is vertically inserted into the soil at a distance of 15 cm from the peduncle and the bulb is dug along with the soil; if she does not come out, then they dig on the other side; root tubers are cleaned from the ground; remove rotten roots and dry scales; washed with running water; carry out disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate or karbofos for 15 minutes; dry in the shade; removed for storage. Save planting material possible in several ways. It is advisable to choose the most suitable of all and use it constantly.

HOW TO STORE PLANTING MATERIAL IN THE WINTER? For storage, you need a cool place with a temperature in the range of 0 ... + 5 ° С. For this, the lower shelf of the refrigerator, cellar, basement, garage, insulated veranda, other places. For keeping in the refrigerator, the bulbs are placed in plastic bags, sprinkling them with wet sawdust or peat. The containers are closed, making several holes in them for air circulation. This the best place for storage, since the temperature on the bottom shelf is at the right level all the time, which creates the conditions for a long sleep of the plant.

Storage in places that are not heated can cause the death of the bulbs when severe frosts. Early germination may begin, which will require an urgent transplant into the ground. In winter, lilies can be stored on the balcony or in the open field in specially made containers with good thermal insulation. It's a good place to store it if it's done right. On the balcony, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the containers must withstand frosts of about -30 ° C. Storage in the open ground will ensure the integrity of the lilies if the chosen place is covered with a thick layer of snow and is located on a hill on the north side of the house. In this zone, the snow does not melt for a long time, and in spring the water from the hill will flow down and the bulbs will be preserved. To leave the plants to winter in the ground, in mid-October, on the days when they are planted winter garlic, at the chosen place they dig a trench with a depth of at least 25 cm. Its walls are reinforced with boards and a lid is made, the bottom is left earthen. They put in a trench cardboard box from corrugated cardboard. Dry peat is poured into it for ⅓, bulbs are placed and covered to the very top with the same material. Peat is compacted, protected from above with oilcloth or polyethylene and a lid. The whole structure is covered with earth with a mound, trampling it well. In such a shelter, lilies winter well. Bulbs can be planted in a pot with drainage and a soil mixture consisting of peat, sand and humus. The container is stored in the cellar. It is taken out half a month before planting in the soil, watered, fertilized with any fertilizer for flowers. The bulb wakes up and starts growing. It can be transplanted into the ground at any time, where it will develop further. Such flowers release buds a little ahead of their time.

If the lily is left in a window pot, it will produce a flower spike, but it will not have enough nutrients to form a strong new root tuber, and it will not bloom in the second year. Planting in the ground is a prerequisite for obtaining buds. HOW TO PRODUCE WINTER-RESISTANT VARIETIES? All varieties of lilies can be propagated. Varieties with one stem are transplanted from early spring until flowering. Plants tolerate moving well. This applies to planting material purchased from a specialized store in bloom.

It is best to plant overgrown nests on the site in late summer or early autumn. Do it at the end of August for early varieties, in early September - for all other types of lilies. The nest is carefully dug up, divided into individual bulbs and planted in a newly prepared place. The event is planned one and a half months after the end of flowering. It is better to do this after the peduncle is completely dry. Pour 1 liter of water into the prepared hole, pour a handful of washed sand, a pinch of fertilizer for flowers. The bulb is cut off the roots to 10 cm and placed in the sand. The pit is filled with loose fertile soil. If the lily grows, but does not multiply, then you can get planting material from it with the help of scales. If you want to get a lot of babies, then the ripened large onion is divided into scales, separating them from the edges in a circle, leaving the middle intact. The uterine bulb is placed in the ground, and the separated parts are washed in running water, disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes, dried and placed in plastic bags with wet peat in a warm place until the bulbs form. After that, the planting material is transferred to the usual storage place for lilies. Planted along with other varieties at the usual time. Plants obtained in this way bloom in the second year. Most often, bulbs form several children at the base of the stem. They are separated and planted for growing in pots, which are stored in a cool place for the winter, and transferred to the ground in spring. The number of children can be increased if the bulb is planted deeper than usual or spud during flowering. Many Asian hybrids form buds on the stem in the axils of the leaves. They crumble in autumn and, if they fall into the soil, begin to develop. Bulbs are harvested after flowering and immediately sown in open ground to a depth of 2-3 cm. Plantings are watered, mulched with humus, and covered with foliage for the winter. Wild species are unpretentious, and their bulbs survive in severe frosts without snow cover.

It is important not only to properly plant the lily bulbs and make sure that they grow into adult plants, but also to ensure proper care for lilies during the budding period, during flowering and after it is completed. The beauty of blooming garden lilies, the duration of their flowering and the well-being of the plants themselves will largely depend on your efforts.

How to grow lilies for lush blooms

Cultivation of lilies, especially exotic varieties, many beginner gardeners seem to be a difficult task due to the prevailing opinion that garden lilies are very capricious. In fact, you will have no problems with these flowers if you know well how to care for lilies throughout the season.

The flowering of garden lilies is influenced by many various factors, starting from the planting site and soil composition, to timely watering and fertilizing. Although lilies generally do well in both shade and full sun, extremes should be avoided. Lilies growing in shaded places are strongly stretched, they have to be tied up. But those plants that are constantly under scorching summer sun, dry out without abundant watering, become stunted and quickly fade. Video about caring for lilies

In this regard, try to choose a place for planting lilies so that they feel as comfortable as possible and do not bring extra hassle. The best option is when the plants are illuminated by sunlight in the morning. Keep in mind that in this case, you can water the flowers only in the evening, so that in the morning the lily leaves do not get burned from moisture drops.

It is very important to prevent waterlogging of the soil and stagnation of moisture: if the soil is clayey, be sure to provide for drainage, otherwise the roots of the bulbs will rot, and you will not wait for the lilies to bloom. The lack of moisture is also undesirable - the flowers are small, twisted. Fresh manure also prevents the flowering of lilies, which stimulates the rapid development of the green mass of the plant, but harms the bulb.

Pledge lush flowering lilies:

• bright morning sun;
• temperature up to +30 degrees;
• more intensive watering during the budding period (keep in mind that different varieties lilies require different watering);
• top dressing with mineral fertilizers;
• regular weeding and loosening.

It should be noted that in the first year it is recommended to cut off all the buds of a lily, no matter how sorry you are for them. Such a decisive step will allow the lily bulb to stock up vitality to give you many beautiful large flowers next season.

What to do during and after lily bloom

Lilies planted in the shade, before flowering, will need to be tied to pegs stuck in the ground (just do not damage the bulbs with pegs), otherwise, under the weight of the flowers, the lilies may fall to the ground. Those plants that grew in the sun are quite powerful and do not need a garter.

If you have provided your plants proper cultivation and care, lilies will bloom for a long time: Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids will bloom first, followed by OT hybrids, oriental and tubular lilies. You just have to admire the magnificent flowers and inhale their fragrance.

Leaving the lilies blooming in the garden gives the bulbs the opportunity to grow larger, which will ensure the plants will bloom even more abundantly next season. But how can you deny yourself the pleasure of decorating your house with beautiful lilies! After all, a lily is a flower, which is grown not only for decorating flower beds, but also for creating chic bouquets. Follow the tips below and you will be able to negative consequences cut flowers to a minimum. Video about caring for lilies in the garden

Correct cut of lily flowers:

• the best time for cutting flowers is early morning or late evening; in cloudy weather, time does not matter;
• it is safer to break off flower stalks, because a lily can be easily infected through a knife viral diseases, or disinfect the knife before cutting;
• the longer the stem remains after cutting the peduncle (at least a third of the stem with leaves should remain), the more complete the nutrition of the bulb will be, and the better it will ripen;
• it is recommended to cut obliquely, then water after rain will not accumulate on the stem, causing rotting.

When lilies fade, care after flowering is minimized. Dried flowers are removed from the stems so that the plants do not waste energy on seed maturation. The last feeding of the season with phosphorus and potash fertilizers is carried out, the preparation of lilies for winter begins. Now you need to increase watering again - this will allow the bulbs to accumulate nutrient reserves for the long winter and finally get stronger. Periodically remove emerging weeds and, if cracks and crusts form on the soil surface, loosen. Two weeks after all the lilies have faded, you can transplant them or cover them for the winter.

orchardo.ru

Beautiful lilies in the garden, growing and caring for it

In terms of beauty and popularity, lilies are hardly inferior to the queen of flowers - the rose. In Russia, lilies began to be massively grown by decree of Peter I. They decorated gardens and parks, they bloomed in front gardens. The elegant and fragrant flowering of garden lilies is currently attracting the attention of many flower growers who light up the idea of ​​​​growing these flowers.

Not all of them know where to start breeding lilies, which varieties of lilies are easy to grow and care for, and which require increased care. Before buying bulbs, you need to have a general idea about the care and planting of lilies in the garden.

What are lilies, a general description

All lilies are united in one genus Lily of the Lily family. Their life form is perennial herbaceous plants forming an onion. Lily bulbs consist of grassroots leaves that are layered on top of each other. Lily bulbs are light, most often white, yellow or pink. The stem is straight and slightly branched. It is a continuation of the bottom of the lily bulb. Lilies and seeds and bulbs reproduce.

With seed propagation in the first year, a small bulb is formed. It has been increasing in size for several years and the first flowers may appear in three years or more. a long period. Almost all lilies have sessile leaves. These plants are capable of forming small bulbs in the corners of the leaves, which have roots and, crumbling, they immediately take root.

Most lilies have large perianths. They are formed by six petals. The flowers are shaped like a funnel or a large bell. Some petals are bent back. The fruits of lilies are a box, the seeds are flat, dense. In total, the genus contains about one hundred species. Most of them grow in Europe and Asia, there are several species on the North American continent. About 30 species and many varieties and hybrids are cultivated in floriculture. The following are especially popular:

• Asian hybrids, they are the most hardy and unpretentious
• oriental hybrids, characterized by large and very large flowers
• tubular hybrids, there are varieties with tall, up to 2 m, stems, there are new miniature varieties up to 30 cm in height

Breeding work to create new varieties is very intensive in many European countries and in the USA. All types have General requirements to cultivation and its characteristics.

planting lilies

It is most convenient to plant lilies with bulbs. The process begins with choosing a site in the garden. Most lilies prefer sunny, sheltered locations. If possible, it is necessary to create such conditions that the inflorescences are in the sun, and root system was protected from overheating. You can do this by planting low-growing plants nearby:

• bell
• viola
• nivyanik
• Afila peas
• day-lily

Curly lilies feel good in partial shade. The soil for all lilies is light, well-drained and dries quickly. It is better to plant them on a small hill, where the water does not stagnate. If, nevertheless, it is not possible to allocate a site with light soil for lilies, then sand is introduced into the clay soil. The application rate is one cubic meter of sand per square meter earth. If the site is sandy, then peat can be added to improve it.

Video about lilies:

Given the fact that lilies have been growing in one place for many years, it is advisable to add organic matter, compost or rotted manure to the ground. The norm is one - two buckets per square. meter. You can complete the fertilization of the soil for lilies with a phosphorus-potassium mixture, one hundred grams per square meter is enough. meter. All fertilizers are applied under deep, up to 40 cm, digging. If you take care of the fertility of the soil before planting, then in the first three years you can not apply other fertilizers under the lilies.

If for some reason this is not done, lilies need to be fed at least twice per season starting from the first year. An important point is the acidity of the soil. Suitable slightly alkaline, neutral in extreme cases - slightly acidic earth. In acidic soils, add chalk or ash, at least 200 grams per square meter. meter. Bulbs can be planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring they are planted in May, in the fall - in August or September. It is better to start with Asiatic lilies, they tolerate transplanting well at any time of the year, although spring planting can be recommended for most regions.

For large bulbs, the depth of the hole is about 15 cm, for small bulbs - 8 cm. A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom. Before embedding in the ground, the bulb is soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for one hour. The distance between the bulbs is from 25 to 50 cm. The most impressive lilies look in small groups, 3-5 plants together. If planting takes place in autumn, then close everything from above with foliage, and in spring protective layer is removed. In order for lilies to bloom regularly and luxuriantly, they need some care.

Lily Care

Most lilies grow beautifully and bloom at the very routine care, which is reduced to the main agrotechnical measures:

• weeding
• watering
• loosening
• top dressing

Weeds under young lilies need to be removed regularly, under adult strong plants there are fewer weeds and they need weeding less often. First spring watering can be produced when the street becomes warmer + 10 degrees, and green cones appear above the surface. At the same time, loosening can be carried out. Loosen very carefully, without damaging the hatched greens. At the same time, you can plant or sow ground cover plants to protect the lily roots from overheating in the sun.

It is recommended to sow viola, it prevents the development of fungal diseases. During the period of bud formation and flowering, plants need to be watered regularly. To do this, it is more convenient to take a watering can with a long narrow spout so that water can be applied directly under the root without falling on the leaves.

To reduce the evaporation of water and prevent the soil from drying out, sprinkle everything with a mulch mixture immediately after watering. At the same time, it is advisable to feed the lilies with complex fertilizers. Lilies respond well to watering with infusion of fresh or dry nettles. Before the onset of winter, as soon as the stem dries out, it must be cut flush with the ground, leaving nothing on top. This will protect the bulb from the cold winter air. As a rule, most bulbs winter well in the ground. For safety, they are covered with leaves and covered with spruce branches. Lilies will respond to regular care with magically beautiful flowers.

OgorodSadovod.com

How to care for lilies after flowering? Information for gardeners

Lilies are given a special place in flower beds by many gardeners. They are so diverse, beautiful and elegant that they will win the heart of any grower. There are a huge number of forms different sizes and flowers. High and low, smooth and terry - lilies are suitable for any flower bed. When lilies bloom in the garden, it is so good to sit near them in the evening, inhaling the captivating aroma! But time passes, and the plants begin to dry out. How to care for lilies after flowering, so that they continue to please the eye for many years, read below.

Stages of growth and development of plants

From May to June, there is a rapid growth of flowering stems and leaves. At this time, the lily performs the function of decorative greenery in the flower beds, and gardeners' attention is focused on daffodils, tulips, peonies and other spring flowers. From June to the end of July, the lily firmly takes the place of the queen of the garden. Exquisite flowers attract both people and insects. With the beginning of August, a slow fading begins. The plant turns yellow, dries and enters a dormant phase.

Life after death"

Every grower should know how to care for lilies after flowering so as not to harm him. After the last bud falls from the plant, the bulb actively grows in it, increases and ripens. Helping this process, you are guaranteed to get luxurious flowering. next summer. All dried flowers are required to be removed from the bush, if possible without damaging the leaves.

Watering and feeding

Lily after flowering also needs nutrients, so you should not forget about your flower bed. The bulb after flowering is very depleted. If you leave it in this state, it will not be able to grow a baby, and indeed it may die in winter period. Be sure to water the soil as it dries. The application of organic and mineral fertilizers is best done twice, with an interval of two weeks. The first will be at the end of flowering - the beginning of August, and the second in the middle. Later feeding is not recommended, as a dormant period begins.

Lily transplant

Depends on the age and condition of the bulbs, as well as on the variety. Lilies are transplanted after flowering. This procedure is necessary, since the lily bulb is overgrown with children and, without dividing, begins to bloom worse. It is not necessary to dig up a lily every year, the optimal break is 3 years. The plant, "sitting" in one place for more than 4 years, begins to give up strongly. If you plant hybrid varieties, then look for help on them separately. Slow-growing varieties should not be disturbed more than once every 5-6 years. If a young, recently planted plant feels unwell, is sick, then it is worth transplanting earlier, without waiting for the due date.

After the end of flowering before the start of transplantation, about one and a half months should pass. Many gardeners are concerned about the question of whether lilies are pruned after flowering. You don't need to do this. The leaves enable the plant to support all metabolic processes, grow an elastic, healthy bulb. Normally, they remain until the very end, only a couple of days before transplantation they need to be cut off, leaving a small stump.

Wintering in the ground

If a transplant is not required for this year, the plants look healthy, then you can save the bush until September, only then cutting it off at the root. This will enable the bulb to gain strength and winter well. Pay attention to the condition of the bush: if back in August it turned black, rotted or dried out, this may indicate a fungal disease. Then you need to dig up the bulb, unscrew the stems from it, pickle it in a solution of potassium permanganate, and then plant it again. The soil for lilies needs loose, light, permeable and nutritious. It should be prepared in advance, by watering the day before.

Landing features

Speaking about how to care for lilies after flowering, it should be noted that nothing particularly difficult will have to be done. As already indicated, you only need to cut off the dried flowers, as well as continue watering and feeding. It's also a good idea to remove all weeds and loosen the soil well. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Depending on the region, in August-September, armed with a pitchfork, you can start digging up the bulbs.

Shake them off the ground and carefully inspect. All scales with brown and rusty spots must be removed. Now the bulbs need to be washed well in at least two waters. Be careful not to damage the roots. For the prevention of fungal and other diseases, it is required to keep them in a solution of karbofos. The concentration is small - 1 tablespoon per bucket of water. The effect is fixed by keeping in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Lily bulbs do not require drying, like tulip bulbs. Their juicy scales do not have a protective layer. Leave them in the shade for a couple of hours, then cut the roots a couple of centimeters - and you can start planting. In the course of the manipulations performed, a large nest usually breaks up on its own, small children can be planted in a separate, small flower bed. They will bloom only in a year, they will need the first summer to gain strength. If you buy bulbs from an experienced gardener, he will additionally tell you how to care for lilies after flowering.

Further care

Lilies are planted in a watered flower bed the day before. They will not need to be watered anymore; when planting, the soil is mulched and left until spring. The same with those bulbs that remained to winter in their place. While the autumn is dry, it is not required to close the plantings. With the onset of heavy rains, the flower bed is covered with spruce branches, peat and whole plastic wrap. This is especially true for hybrid varieties that were originally bred for regions where autumn and winter are dry. Under such a warm and dry cover, the roots continue to grow for a very long time, as long as a positive temperature remains in the soil. Now you know how to save lilies after flowering, what to do so that next year the plants will delight with their beautiful views.

syl.ru

Lily is a flower of tenderness and beauty. Lily care | We grow plants!

Submitted on Fri, 27/05/2011 - 21:32 by olga

If you want to grow a lily flower in your area, it is useful to know what kind of care a lily requires. When is the best time to plant this flower? Which part of the garden for a lily to choose?

Lily has been known to people for a long time. Her elegant noble beauty could not go unnoticed. Lilies are mentioned in legends ancient world, Medieval Europe. In France, the white lily, as you know, was even a symbol of the royal house of Bourbon.

Over time, breeders have bred many ornamental varieties lilies, beautiful and delicate flower. Choosing a variety to your taste and growing a lily in the garden is not difficult for a grower with any experience. So how do you care for lilies?

We wrote about planting lilies in separate material. You can read it here.

Lily care in the garden

What you need to know about caring for lilies after planting? Lilies love sunny places, can grow in partial shade, but should not be planted in too shady areas.

How to water

Lilies need constantly, but moderately moist soil. In dry and hot weather, plants should be watered abundantly, in cool weather - moderately, as needed. For better moisture retention, it is useful to mulch the soil around the lilies using peat, sawdust, compost, and leaf humus for this. At the same time, it is undesirable to loosen the soil so as not to damage the upper roots and small baby bulbs.

Water the plants under the root, trying not to splash water on the leaves. Moisture on the leaves can lead to fungal diseases. The leaves of lilies, like all bulbs, must be protected, the loss of leaves adversely affects the quality of flowering.

About diseases

Lilies often suffer from fungal diseases, primarily from gray mold, but also from thrips. Affected plants are transplanted in the fall, treating the bulbs for diseases. healthy plants transplanted when they grow and begin to bloom worse, usually every 4-5 years. In order to prevent diseases in the spring after the leaves appear, plants of the second year and older are sprayed blue vitriol or Bordeaux liquid, karbofos. Before the appearance of flowers, plants can also be periodically treated with Actellik or Intavir preparations.

When choosing a variety of lilies, remember that domestic varieties are more adapted to our climate. Foreign varieties may freeze in winter.

How to fertilize

When caring for lilies, top dressing plays an important role. For good growth and flowering lilies need to be regularly and properly fertilized. At the beginning of summer, even before the first sprouts appear, it is already necessary to start the first feeding. At this time, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to stimulate the growth of leaves and stems. Suitable ammonium nitrate, nitroammophoska, complex liquid fertilizer. You can also use organic fertilizers, such as rotted manure.

When the buds appear on the lilies for the second time in the middle of summer, you need to make top dressing with a predominant content of phosphorus and potassium. For example, superphosphate, potassium magnesia, potassium nitrate, liquid fertilizers for flowering plants. It is useful to add wood ash to the soil under the lilies, which also contains a large amount of potassium and phosphorus.

It is important to note that even if the ground part of the lily has died from disease or pests, fertilizers still need to be applied for the further development of the bulb.

Preparing for winter

For the winter, lilies need to be covered. For some varieties this is a must, and it won't hurt those that can overwinter without shelter. They cover with a film, peat, sawdust, leaf humus, foliage, spruce branches. Shelter is produced in late autumn, after the onset of stable frosts. Shelter is removed at the beginning of summer, after the last frosts have passed.

MyFlo.com

The secrets of growing lilies - caring for lilies, proper planting, popular varieties - Roses in Gatchina

Lily growing secrets - lily care, proper planting, popular varieties

Published 02.04.2012

Lily is one of the famous flower crops- more than six thousand of its hybrid varieties are known, obtained from crossing various kinds. In 1962, the American gardener Jan de Graaf systematized varieties and hybrids of lilies, combining them by origin. This classification in 1964 was adopted as an international one. It will be very useful, especially for beginners, because the most important features, such as soil requirements, resistance to frost, drought or excess moisture, and disease resistance are the same for most lilies.

Lilies are usually placed in the middle or background of flower beds. Strive to arrange them so that other plants block about half of the stem from all sides where the flower garden is viewed. Then the shoots of lilies turning yellow after flowering will not be evident. In the foreground, hostas, geyhers, geraniums, lavender, hyssop, stakhis, brunner and other cultures with beautiful leaves, retaining decorativeness throughout the season. In the intervals between groups of lilies or behind them, you can land blooming in autumn perennial asters, phlox, echinacea. Their above-ground part noticeably grows, becomes more magnificent after the flowering of most varieties of lilies. In such a composition, the plants located next to the lilies will almost close in the second half of summer, and the place vacated in the flower garden above the bulbs will become imperceptible.

IN Lately popular undersized varieties lilies with a stem height of up to 30 cm. In the middle plan of a mixed flower garden, they are almost invisible. Sometimes they are recommended for rockeries. But against the background of stones or pebble dumping, they are too clearly visible, and after flowering, when it is still impossible to remove the yellowing shoots, so as not to disrupt the development of the bulb, they look ugly. These varieties are suitable for planting among ground-blooded plants with a shallow root system - creeping phloxes, gypsophila in rockeries or in the foreground of a flower garden. But main way use of miniature varieties - container planting. Any varieties of lilies develop well in containers and bloom magnificently, provided timely top dressing, but undersized ones are also more mechanically stable. The container with them does not turn over, and the stems do not break if they are accidentally touched. When lilies in a container lose their presentable appearance, it can simply be removed away from the eyes, replacing it with the same container, but with later flowers, for example, with miniature dahlias.

Important to consider

The appearance of lilies changes markedly over the course of the season. Roughly, four stages can be distinguished.

1. Vegetation. From May to the beginning of flowering, flower-bearing stems grow, covered with bright green foliage. Among other plants, lilies do not attract attention to themselves, but they do not spoil the look of the flower garden.
2. Bloom. Exquisite, rare in beauty flowers bloom, visible from afar. This is the main thing for which lilies are planted.
3. End of flowering and fruiting. The shoots of the plant lose their beauty, gradually acquire a yellowish or brownish tint.

Peace. The stems dry out, they can be removed from the flower garden, the place of lilies in flower beds is empty.

Longiflora (Longiflorum)

The flowers are tubular to nearly star-shaped, usually white, and very fragrant. Blooms in July-August. Plants are not hardy enough, prone to viral diseases. Suitable for forcing and growing in pots.

Asian

The flower shape is usually cupped or chalmoid, there are several varieties with double flowers. The color is white, pink, cream, yellow, orange, two- and three-color, red and maroon, almost black. The downside is the lack of flavor. Unpretentious, winter-hardy, slightly susceptible to fungal diseases and do not suffer from viral infections. Blooms well in full sun and partial shade. Does not tolerate lime, prefers neutral or slightly acidic fertile soils. Easily propagated vegetatively. Many varieties of this section form baby bulbs in the axils of the leaves (bulbs). Such varieties are called bulbous.

Candidum (Candidum)

The flowers are tubular or funnel-shaped, white or yellow, fragrant. Varieties of this group are susceptible to viral and fungal diseases. They need a reliable shelter for the winter, a sunny location, well-fertilized, preferably calcareous, soil. The bulbs are planted in August without deepening, since the hybrids do not have supra-bulb roots. In September, the plants form rosettes of overwintering leaves, and the following year, a flower-bearing shoot.

Oriental, oriental (Oriental)

The flowers are fragrant and odorless, tubular, cup-shaped, star-shaped, turban-shaped, very variable in color. Blooms in August-September. Long time considered unsuitable for cultivation in middle lane Russia. But the modern assortment has been replenished with varieties that successfully bloom and multiply in the conditions of the Moscow region. Usually heavily affected by fungal diseases and viruses, but recently there are more and more new varieties that are resistant to infections.

Tubular and Orleans (Trumpet & Aurelian)

The flowers are fragrant, tubular, rarely cup-shaped or star-shaped, yellow, pink, orange. Outer side perianth often darker than inner. Blooms in July-August. Frost-resistant, prefer good garden soil with the addition of leaf humus. Cannot tolerate acidic soils. They are not susceptible to viral diseases and are sufficiently resistant to fungal infections. Needs a sunny location and well-drained soil. A flower in tubular lilies is formed outside the bulb - it is laid during the growing season on a flowering stem. Therefore, in the case of late frosts, there may be a lack of flowering or the appearance of defective, ugly flowers.

American (American)

The flowers are usually turban-shaped, two-colored, with a wine-red speck on a light background. The aroma is weak. Bloom in July. Rare in culture, but well suited for central Russia. Prefer sunny areas. They need abundant watering and slightly acidic soils. Rarely form daughter bulbs, vegetatively reproduce better by bulbous scales.

Martagon

The flowers are chalmoid, of various colors, with dark spots on inside perianth segment. The aroma of flowers is weak.

The most frost-resistant among lilies, long-lived plants are not susceptible to viral diseases, almost do not suffer from gray rot and are rarely affected by Fusarium. They grow in one place for a long time, transplantation is poorly tolerated. They prefer partial shade. Need regular watering, undemanding to the soil. They grow slowly, rarely form daughter bulbs, so they are propagated mainly by bulbous scales.

Intersectional lily hybrids

Of great interest are also plants obtained by crossing varieties from different sections with each other. They are called intersectional hybrids. Often breeders manage to combine the advantages of different sections in this way, eliminating some of the shortcomings. Several groups have already been received:

1. AA (Aurelian x Asiatic). They bloom in July, as a rule, have a strong aroma. Frost-resistant, not subject to gray rot and Fusarium.
2. LA (Longiflorum x Asiatics). The largest group. Resistant to fungal diseases and winter-hardy. They inherited a variety of colors from Asiatic lilies, but they have larger and beautiful flowers, pleasant aroma. They grow well in open or slightly shaded areas with a neutral or slightly acidic soil. For the winter, it is advisable to cover the plantings of this group of lilies with leaves or peat.
3. LO (Longiflorum x Oriental). The flowers are short-tubular or funnel-shaped, white, white-pink or deep pink in color, with a pleasant aroma.
4. LP (Trumpet x Longiflorum). They winter well in central Russia, are resistant to diseases. They have beautiful multi-flowered inflorescences.
5. OA (Oriental x Asiatic). Quite unpretentious, hardy plants. Bloom in July.

OT (OR), or Orienpets (Oriental x Trumpet), are hybrids. Plants with very large beautiful fragrant flowers, reminiscent of oriental, but less capricious. Blooms from mid-July.

oriental lilies

It was once believed that oriental lilies are too tender and capricious to grow them in the middle lane, because due to late flowering they go into winter ill-prepared and often freeze out. But modern technologies allowed the development of many resistant varieties. Some bloom already from the second half of July, even if they are planted quite late in the spring (for example, after buying in garden center or by mail).

Oriental lilies, or orientals, are hybrids obtained from crossing East Asian species. Today this section has about 300 varieties. It is distinguished by the richness of shades and shapes of large, often very fragrant flowers. Two- and three-color varieties are available. They bloom from late July to September, after the most common "Asian" lilies in our gardens have bloomed. You will not regret buying oriental lilies. When they bloom, your neighbors, friends and acquaintances will definitely ask where this pleasant aroma comes from.

What to plant lilies with - compatibility

Overheating of roots and bulbs is harmful to lilies. To avoid it, use mulch. It is even better to shade the landing site ground cover plants(planted directly above the bulbs), other perennials and especially low bushes(they sit next to each other). Lilies look better if their lower part is covered, and next to shrubs they winter even better: snow accumulates here, and damage to sprouts by late frosts is less common.

Secrets of planting oriental lilies

Oriental lily bulbs are recommended to be planted in August. Keep in mind that they do not tolerate drying. If planting stock comes from nest division in your area, plant lilies as soon as possible after digging up, and if you purchase bulbs from a store, make sure they are not wilted and shriveled.

For planting choose warm sunny areas with well-drained fertile acidic soils. The layer of soil above an adult bulb should be on average two of its diameters, but not less than 10-12 cm, and in the northern regions it is recommended to even deepen them up to 15-20 cm - so they will germinate later, and the likelihood of damage to the buds by spring frosts will decrease. Luxurious flowers need enough space to feed - try to maintain a distance of 20-25 cm between the bulbs.

After the surface of the earth is seized by frost, the plantings are covered with a layer of fallen leaves, after the snow melts, this shelter is removed to allow the soil to warm up.

The main secret of a successful wintering of the oriental lily is that the soil must be dry. In autumn, wait until dry weather sets in for a while, and cover the plantings with waterproof material. The place should be flat, without a slope, so that water does not flow under the shelter. It will not be noticeable in the flower garden if you plant flowers around that grow luxuriantly in late summer and autumn: buzulnik, sapling, gelenium, perennial asters.

It is easier to grow orientals in a container than in flower beds, and who would refuse the opportunity to put fragrant flowers on a terrace, patio, balcony? Bulbs can be purchased in the off-season at a discount - after all, they are planted at any time. Choose varieties up to 50 cm tall. The main thing is that the container with growing lilies does not dry out and does not overheat. After flowering, stop watering and keep the bulbs dry, and for the winter, put the container in a cool place with a temperature not exceeding 5 ° C.

If you like oriental lilies, but have doubts about the success of their cultivation, look for OT hybrids obtained from crossing oriental (Oriental) and tubular (Trumpet) lilies. They have all the virtues of the oriental, but are more resilient in comparison with them. Blooms from mid-July. It is better to plant bulbs in raised flower beds; when preparing the soil, coniferous litter and sand are added to it.

Asian lilies

Unpretentious and extraordinarily spectacular - none of the groups can be compared in popularity with Asiatic lilies: they are grown almost everywhere, even in permafrost conditions in Alaska! The varieties of this section give a lot of baby bulbs and therefore are ideal for flower beds: by buying a small package of bulbs of each variety you like, in a few years you will be able to divide the nests and decorate the garden with spectacular curtains of lilies obtained on your site.

Focus on color and shape

Unfortunately, Asian hybrids do not have the aroma of their relatives from other sections. But in terms of the variety of shape and color of the flower, they have no equal. Only meet here terry varieties: yellow Fata Morgana, orange Double Whiskey, pink Aphrodita. Also noteworthy are the Tango varieties (with a rare or thick speck that merges into dark tan marks), Brushmark (with dark strokes in the center of the petals) and others. The unique decorative qualities of Asiatic lilies are a treasured "bait" for collectors and designers.

Asiatic Lily Planting Secrets

• Lilies of this section do not tolerate lime in the soil at all. When you cook for them seats, make peat.
• Use coniferous litter as mulch - it helps to maintain soil looseness and maintains a slightly acidic reaction of the soil solution.

The best place for Asiatic lilies is elevated areas that are illuminated by the sun for several hours a day (before or after noon).

Share them more often

Asiatic lilies need to be dug up and divided more often than other varieties - about once every 3 years. Their nests grow rapidly, and the bulbs begin to interfere with each other. If the division is not done in time, the flowers are crushed.

When buying a choice of Asian lilies for flower beds and container planting, pay attention not only to height and color, but also to the location of the flower. Varieties with downward-pointing flowers are distinguished by a more modest, refined appearance - they can even be used in natural flower beds. In containers, low varieties will look good, the flowers of which look up.

Lily varieties

Novice flower growers and those who are not going to devote a lot of time to caring for flower beds should pay attention to unpretentious varieties of lilies. As a rule, they do not have an aroma, but their decorative qualities are at their best.

• Alaska
• Asian hybrid. Height 90-100 cm. Star-shaped flowers, directed upwards, white, with a rare speck in the center and a yellow spot around the nectary. Filaments greenish white. Diameter 15-16 cm. Blooms in July.
• Salmon Classic
• LA hybrid. Height 80 cm. The flowers are cup-shaped, directed upwards, pinkish-orange in color with a darker center. Blooms in mid July spring planting- 70 days after bulb germination.
• Barcelona
• Asian hybrid. Height 80 cm. The flowers are red with a yellow center, medium-sized, directed upwards. It blooms very profusely, in June-July.
• Apricot Beauty
• Asian hybrid. The variety was obtained in 1964 in Holland. The plant is 60-70 cm high. The flowers are about 15 cm in diameter, cup-shaped, directed upwards, apricot-orange, very beautiful shade, with cherry specks. The variety grows well, resistant to diseases.
• Geneve
• Asian hybrid. Height 69-80 cm. The flowers are pale pink, goblet-shaped, with a darker center and a rare speck at the base of the petals. Directed up. Blooms in July, grows well.
• Lollypop
• Asian hybrid. Plant height 70 cm, star-shaped flower, directed upwards, about 15 cm in diameter, with bright pink tips. It blooms earlier than other lilies of the group, when wintering in the open field - in June. Prefers the sun. Effective and unpretentious variety.
• landfill
• Asian hybrid. Height 70 cm. Flowers are tubular, directed upwards, dark purple, almost black. Blooms in July. A very showy variety for flower beds, can be used as a base for sophisticated color combinations.
• Orange Art
• Tango-Asian hybrid. Height 110 cm. The flowers are bright orange with dense dark specks, merging closer to the center into solid brown "scorch marks", directed upwards.
• Fata Morgana
• Asian hybrid. The plant is 90-100 cm tall. The flowers are cup-shaped, look up; bright yellow with dark spots. Terry flower, diameter 17 cm. Racemose inflorescences. Blooms in July. Forms a spectacular profusely flowering thicket, very good for flower beds.
• Chianti

Asian hybrid. Plant height 90-120 cm, flower 8-15 cm in diameter, goblet, wide open, directed upwards. Petals pale pink, delicate shade. Blooms profusely in July or 90 days after planting, grows well.

Selection of lily varieties for connoisseurs

Fragrant lilies with exquisite large flowers-not only for sophisticated flower growers. By carefully reading the recommendations in this issue of the magazine, you will be able to grow them, even if you do not have much experience. You just need to put in a little more effort.

• Cherbourg
• Eastern hybrid. Height 90-100 cm. The flowers are alabaster-white, with a light yellow blurred center and wavy edges, directed upwards.
• Rio Negro
• Eastern hybrid. Height 130 cm. Flowers up to 18 cm in diameter, raspberry-red, with a contrasting thin white border and dark purple sparse specks, wavy along the edge. Blooms in July-August.
• Shocking
• OT hybrid. Height 130 cm. The flowers are bright red, with a wide pale yellow border along the edge, up to 21 cm in diameter, directed horizontally, fragrant. The variety is quite stable. Blooms in early August.
• Montezuma
• Eastern hybrid. Height 130 cm. The flowers are very large (27 cm), with a strong aroma, purple-red with dark purple dots, directed horizontally. Blooms in July.
• Brazil
• Eastern hybrid. Height 120 cm. The flowers are pale pink, with a brighter blurred border and wavy edges and a rare pink speck. Directed horizontally, flower diameter up to 27 cm. Blooms in August.

OT hybrid. Height 100-130 cm. The flowers are golden yellow, with a brighter center, tubular in shape, directed horizontally. Flower diameter 25 cm. Blooms in July.

planting lilies

A place

For lilies in the garden, choose sunny or slightly shaded, wind-protected areas with well-drained soils - from slightly acidic to calcareous. You can clarify what soil requirements the varieties of each group have in the “Classification” section. Common to all varieties is that they do not tolerate stagnant moisture. Areas where thawed and rainwater, not suitable for growing lilies, but too heavy clay soils require improvement.

The soil

The roots of lilies penetrate to a depth of up to 60 cm. Therefore, the soil is cultivated to a depth of 40-60 cm. Add 1 bucket of sand and peat to a heavy soil, and 1 bucket of peat per 1 m2 to a light one. In addition, 2-3 buckets of well-rotted manure are applied for each square meter of plantings (it must be aged for at least three years) and the soil is filled with phosphate and potash fertilizers (100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2). Under varieties that prefer slightly alkaline and calcareous soils, make 200-500 g wood ash or chalk, under oriental lilies and OT hybrids, gravitating to slightly acidic soil, prepare a mixture of equal parts of peat, soddy soil and humus and shed it with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or add it to the usual soil mix for lilies coniferous litter.

Lily planting time

Planting and transplanting lilies is usually carried out when the plants are at rest: from late August to late September.

Processing before planting

Bulbs must be pickled for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water) or any special preparation for pickling bulbs, which is used according to the instructions on the package. bulbs from own garden before that, they are washed under running water, dead scales are removed, the roots are shortened to 5 cm.

planting depth

The bulbs are planted to a depth equal to three of their diameters, but not less than 8 cm. The rules for planting candidum hybrids differ: all work is carried out no later than August, and the depth is calculated so that the thickness of the soil layer above the top of the bulb is no more than 3 cm. hybrids are planted, on the contrary, somewhat deeper than dictated general rule, but at the same time as most other varieties.

Distance between bulbs

Depends on the height and power of the plant. High varieties are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, low - 10-15 cm. After planting, especially in dry weather, areas with planted bulbs are thoroughly watered. Bulbs purchased in the spring are planted in the same way, but in May.

Some lilies - Asian, tubular, oriental hybrids - prefer open sunny places, others - varieties of lilies from the martagon group - can be grown only in partial shade and with significant shading. Fortunately, there is an external sign that allows you to accurately determine the place for planting: if there are supra-bulbous (annual, formed annually) roots on the stem, the varieties need light shading.

Lilies work well in raised flower beds, on terraces that provide drainage for plantings. But they should not be placed close to the retaining walls of the southern and northern exposure.

The planting depth may vary depending on the mechanical composition of the soil: on light ones, the depth will be somewhat greater, on heavy ones, less.

In one place without a transplant, lilies are grown on average for about 5 years. The exceptions are Asian and LA hybrids, which require a transplant every 3 years, and slowly developing tubular and martagon hybrids, which can develop in one place without a transplant for up to 7 years or more.

The optimal time for transplanting and planting lilies in central Russia is August-September, in the southern regions - October. You can plant later when the soil temperature is close to zero, but then cover the plants well for the winter. Landings are insulated with dry leaves when upper layer the soil will freeze. And so that they are not blown away by the wind, press them with spruce branches.

Asian hybrids can be transplanted throughout the season, even when in bloom. Just do it carefully, do not damage the roots! After transplanting, they need abundant watering and shading. It is better to immediately remove all the buds - in this case, the bulbs and roots will develop well, and the next year the plants will bloom profusely.

Care and reproduction of lilies

Reproduction by bulbous scales

This is the most effective method, it is applicable to almost all lilies. Scales are removed during but it is best to do this in spring or autumn when transplanting lilies. Reproduction by scales, allowing you to multiply your favorite variety, getting right amount plants for the flower garden.

1. Rake the ground, trying not to disturb the roots, remove the bulb and, gently pressing on the scales, break out 5-6 outer scales. The place of breakage must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with a mixture of crushed charcoal with sulfur. Then return the bulb to its original place and sprinkle with earth.
2. Disinfect the scales with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, then treat with a solution (Kornevin, heteroauxin). After processing the scales, dry and powder with a mixture of crushed coal and sulfur.

When separating the scales in the spring, they can be planted directly into open ground - after 5-6 cm, with row spacing of 20-25 cm, deepening by 2/3 of the height. Mulch the soil with peat chips or humus, shade the plantings. Don't let the soil dry out! In autumn, small bulbs formed from scales can be planted for growing.

Lily Care

In the spring, after removing shelters from plantings of heat-loving varieties, the surface layer of the soil is loosened to retain moisture. Until the plants bloom, they need enough, but not excessively moist soil. So that the roots do not overheat and do not dry out, it is recommended to mulch the soil with humus or peat chips. At the end of flowering and for some time after it ends, the plants are watered under the root, trying not to wet the leaves. In autumn, after the transition of lilies to a state of rest, it is recommended to cover areas with oriental hybrids with a waterproof film.

When the first leaves appear, the plants are fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or full mineral fertilizer(40-50 g per 1 m2). Repeat during the period when the plants are gaining buds and during the coloring of the buds, but no later than August 15. For most varieties, with the exception of those preferring acidic soil, it is useful to apply wood ash 2-3 times during the season at the rate of 100 g per m2 - this helps to increase the size of flowers, enhances their color intensity, and increases plant resistance to various diseases.

Lilies are perennial ornamental plants, which are amazing in their shape and have beautiful coloring. Caring for these flowers in general does not cause any problems: the bulbs are easy to plant in the ground, you do not need to weed and spray from pests. It is necessary from time to time only to water the lawn, to loosen the soil, for better growth it is desirable to feed the soil. When the plants have faded, they need to be treated with particular care. So, the lilies have faded - what to do, how to prepare the bulbs for the winter?

How to prune lilies after flowering

After flowering, lilies need to be prepared for wintering. Preparation begins with picking off dried flowers. This is done to save the consumption of nutrients by the plant. So the plant will not waste useful material for seed maturation. Stems and leaves that have already wilted do not cease to energize. When to prune faded lilies if you want to have beautiful heads? This is done only at the end of the season. Pruning is carried out in such a way that the annual roots of the lily are preserved, they are in close proximity to the soil surface. Annual rhizomes feed the plant, namely the bulb, with additional nutrients.

After the lilies have faded, what should I do so that the view of the garden does not deteriorate? It is recommended to use camouflage plants to hide dried flowers in the garden. A good camouflage can be tall or one-year-old flowers that will cover the lilies.

after flowering

If the lilies have faded, what to do next, how to fertilize them? During this period, they need to be fed with potassium and phosphate fertilizers. Gardeners strongly do not recommend using after the plant has faded, because lilies become susceptible to various diseases after repeated feeding, and they can also poorly tolerate wintering, the next year they bloom poorly and are susceptible to infections.

After the lilies have faded, what to do in terms of feeding organic fertilizers? In fact, fresh compost can infect the soil with a harmful infection, provoke a bulb burn or dangerous fungal diseases. After flowering is over, it is best to feed the plant with special ready-made solutions, which are sold in many agricultural stores. This contributes to the rapid maturation of the bulb, laying flower buds. After flowering, watering volumes should be increased so that the plant has enough water and nutrients for the winter. So it will be stronger.

after flowering

Many flower growers are new to the timing of when lilies are dug up. Gardening professionals recommend doing this 3-4 weeks after flowering, but not before.

If the lilies have faded, what to do with the bulbs, how to transplant them to another flower bed? If the transplant is done ahead of time, the flower may not take root or even die. Before planting, the bulb should dry out, the dead parts of the plant should also be separated. The root crop must be treated with a barely pink solution of potassium permanganate. This will help sanitize the bulb and protect it from infections. Then it is transplanted into a pre-dug flower bed.

Storing lily bulbs

Only a few can be left in the ground. Asian hybrid plants tolerate cold winters well, tubular lilies are best dug up, placed in a mixture of sand and peat, or in sawdust and stored in a cellar until spring. You can limit yourself to storing the bulbs in the refrigerator, but not in the freezer, in a bag of sand and peat, or in a sawdust substrate.

Covering lily bulbs for the winter

Eastern varieties of lilies for the winter are covered with a layer of peat or foliage of trees. The best insulation for bulbs that will winter in the ground - a layer of snow. By spring, the compost layer is removed according to weather conditions.

Lilies - perennial bulbous plants the Lily family. Active growth of these flowers begins in the spring. In May and June, lily shoots decorate flower beds and flower beds with their greenery. Flowers appear at the end of June. Lilies bloom for about a month. With the advent of August, flowering gradually fades away. Having given all its strength to the formation of buds, the plant needs rest. However, this does not mean that the growing season is over and the lilies no longer need care and attention.

Lilies after flowering: features of the growing season

After flowering, the stems of lilies give the flower garden a sad, somewhat unkempt look. Seeing this, some flower growers seek to clean up the garden and cut off the shoots. They believe that the ground part of the plant is no longer needed, therefore, it can be removed. This opinion is wrong.

You can not cut the shoots of lilies after flowering!

The plant continues to grow and develop even after flowering. Only the focus of this development is shifting from the ground to the underground. The maturation of the bulb begins, which is expressed in the accumulation of nutrients. Most of them are formed in the leaves. Through the vessels of the shoots, nutrients move to the bulb, where they are stored in reserve. It is required:

• for the education of children;
• successful wintering;
• future flowering.

It is more logical not only to leave the stems, but also to help the plant regain strength by providing good care.

On a note! The illusion of unkemptness created by the shoots of lilies without buds is easily eliminated by camouflage from plantings of tall decorative foliage plants or flowers.

Care after flowering

Uncomplicated. It comes down to carrying out traditional events for flower growers: watering, weeding, loosening and top dressing. However, in their implementation there are important nuances and features.

In addition, being perennials, lilies still need periodic transplants and digging bulbs for winter storage.

1. 1. Removal of faded buds and formed fruits.

Withered lily flower buds are removed immediately. If this is not done, fruits in the form of boxes with seeds will begin to develop on the shoots. In the absence of a need for seeds, the fruits are also removed without waiting for them to ripen. This will allow the plant to save energy.

1. 1. Watering.

After flowering, lilies continue to be watered. Good watering will allow the bulb to get stronger and make a supply of nutrients. Humidification is carried out in the first half of the day, once every two weeks, thoroughly moistening the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm. When watering, they try to avoid getting water on the leaves.

Surface (10-15 cm) watering can harm the plant. It leads to rapid decay. lower leaves and the formation of a crust on the surface of the earth, making it difficult for the roots to breathe.

1. 1. Weeding, loosening, mulching.

Carrying out these procedures after flowering is as necessary as during active vegetation. Loosening of lilies is carried out with caution: in the surface layer there are adventitious stem roots that provide the bulb with additional nutrition.

After heavy rains, when the soil is washed out and to prevent it from hardening, sand is poured under the lilies. In the future, loosening, it is mixed with the ground.

After flowering, the soil is mulched with sawdust or straw. This will protect the bulb from overheating and retain moisture.

1. 1. Fertilization.

An exhausted bulb after flowering needs enhanced nutrition. It is provided with top dressing, which is carried out twice, with an interval of at least 2 weeks:

• Toward the end of flowering, in late July, early August.
• After the complete end of flowering.

As fertilizers, any phosphorus-potassium mixture or liquid organic matter for flowers is used.

With the second feeding should not be delayed. Late fertilization will delay the onset of the dormant period, the plant will not have time to prepare for winter.

Digging bulbs and transplanting

In the fall, 3-4 weeks after the full end of flowering, the lily bulbs are dug up. This event is one of important elements care and is carried out for several reasons:

1. 1. Education on the bulb of children. This is especially true for Asian varieties that annually form several daughter bulbs. Growing up, they weaken the mother plant and shade each other.
2. 2. General weakening of the plant, "sitting" in one place for more than 4 years.
3. 3. Low frost resistance of some varieties.
4. 4. Carrying out breeding or changing the site.
5. 5. The appearance of symptoms of diseases: blackening, drying or rotting of the shoots.

For the purpose of bulb transplantation, most varieties Lilies are dug up once every 3 years.

Timing and scheme of transplantation

Transplantation can be done in spring or autumn. Most flower growers prefer holding autumn transplant, combining it with digging, since at this time the bulbs are at rest and more easily tolerate this procedure.

The frequency of transplantation is determined by the peculiarities of the vegetation of the variety and climatic conditions. For example:

• Oriental and Orleans lilies are transplanted annually;
• hybrid and slow-growing varieties of lilies once every 5–6 years, American hybrids once every 10 years.

Work sequence:

1. 1. Preparation: a week before the planned event, the shoots of lilies are cut off, leaving a small stump.
2. 2. Digging and inspection: The bulbs are dug up with a pitchfork or shovel, cleared of the ground and inspected. Sick, rotten and damaged specimens, as well as scales with brown and brown spots, are subject to removal.
3. 3. Treatment of bulbs: washing in two waters and disinfection in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). After that, the bulbs are kept for 30 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.
4. 4. Drying: processed bulbs are placed on a flat container (grid, tray) in dark place with air temperature below room temperature (15–18 °C).
5. 5. Processed and dried bulbs can be transplanted to another place or removed for winter storage.

Landing site selection and work sequence

Lilies grow well in light and permeable sites, preferring nutritious soils, sunny places without drafts or light shading. Do not plant lilies in the lowlands or the shade of trees and shrubs. Their shoots are stretched and thinner, flowering comes later and not so luxuriously. Action algorithm:

1. 1. Before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 30 cm. heavy soils make sand, in sandy - peat or humus.
2. 2. Wells are prepared in advance in the selected area, placing them at a distance of 20–25 cm. The depth of the holes is directly proportional to the size of the bulb and the height of the plant. For medium-sized bulbs, it is about 12 cm. Bulbs of stem-root lilies and late-flowering hybrids are subject to deeper incorporation (by 25 cm). Baby bulbs are planted in furrows, deepening by 5–7 cm.
3. 3. Drainage (river sand) is placed at the bottom of the hole, a bulb is placed on it, sprinkled with the same sand on top. Above it is nutrient soil.
4. 4. Beds with plantings of lilies are mulched with sawdust, humus or peat. Mulch will retain moisture and provide winter protection.

bulb storage

Lily bulbs can be stored in the country or at home by placing them in a pot or bags made of durable paper or polyethylene with holes made, boxes or boxes filled with a peat-sand mixture.

Containers with bulbs are placed in a cool (from 0 to 5 ° C) place with moderately humid air, periodically airing and inspecting. If dried roots are found, the bulbs are sprayed with water.

Wintering in the soil

If a transplant is not planned, the bulbs are left to winter in the soil.

After complete drying, the shoots are cut off, leaving a stump 10–15 cm high. In October, it is carefully twisted. In areas with severe or little snowy winters, lilies are covered with fallen leaves, peat or sawdust.

After flowering, lilies need care. He must be correct. This is a guarantee of their successful wintering and future luxurious flowering.

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