Process machining wooden blanks always accompanied by the release of dust or the scattering of shavings and sawdust. Modern power tools provide the ability to connect any installations for collection and disposal wood waste, but purchasing them for household needs is not always justified. At the home level, a homemade device successfully copes with the problem of dust removal. Let us consider in detail the procedure for making a vacuum cleaner for the workshop.
Required materials and tools
The basis for the project is the old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
Motor part;
Power regulator;
Power cord;
Suction hose;
Nozzles
For the homemade body, select a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50–80 liters, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
A piece of plastic sewer pipe diameter 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
M6 bolts and nuts – 14 pieces each;
Strip of galvanized sheet metal;
Air filter from a minibus;
220 Volt switch;
Threaded rod with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue rods;
Drain corrugated hose for washing machine;
Electrical installation corrugation HDPE 32.
Docking units are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the pipes on the tools and the diameters of the vacuum cleaner intake hoses. List of tools used:
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Wire cutters;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Caulk gun.
The process of making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop
Stepping back approximately 100 mm from the top, mark a hole on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drill it using a drill. Then use a knife to give the hole an oval shape so that the inner end of the pipe is placed close to the wall and points down at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using glue gun, fix the pipe in place.
Using the same “hot” method, an adapter for the suction hose is attached to the outside of the pipe.
Using a jigsaw, cut out two circles from plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. First, two holes are made in the blanks for bolts and the parts are secured on both sides of the cover. Next, drill the remaining holes, remove the circles and remove the burrs with sandpaper. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the workpieces, place the parts on the lid and fully install the fasteners. A hole is made for the pin in the center of the plywood circles, and a little to the side for the air intake of the motor block.
Remove from the air filter with pliers metal mesh, otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with cleaning the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is covered with a plywood plug.
The prepared filter element is secured to the stud with a wing nut.
The motor part usually has round shapes. Therefore, for ease of installation, the plastic parts in which the motor was located are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner. Thanks to them, to secure the unit to the barrel lid, you only need one clamp, made from a strip of tin.
A switch and power regulator are placed next to the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. All that remains is to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with the plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, apply power and check the operation of the device.
The standard suction hose of a household vacuum cleaner is too short; it is extended with a corrugated tube for laying wiring or another similar product.
Manufacturing of nozzles and adapters
Cleanliness in the workshop begins with the workbench. To clean the workplace, use a standard brush that comes with the household appliance.
The nozzle is connected using a rubber adapter cut from a tube of appropriate caliber, for example, from a pipe of a car’s cooling system.
One of the most littered power tools is the power planer. The outlet fitting of the tool is large enough; most likely, the vacuum cleaner hose will connect without problems.
The design does not provide a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often to prevent the vacuum cleaner from overfilling.
Cleanliness and order in a home workshop is the result of work done with your own hands, achieved with a minimum of financial investment.
Cyclone-type installations are used in industry for purifying gases and liquids. The operating principle of the filter is based on the physical laws of inertia and gravity. Air (water) is sucked out of the device through the upper part of the filter. A vortex flow is created in the filter. As a result, the contaminated product enters the filter through a pipe located on the side of the upper part. Since debris particles are heavier, they settle in the lower part of the filter, and the purified product is discharged through the upper part. Today we will look at just such a filter, made for the workshop, together with the author of the homemade product.
Tools and materials:
76 l waste container;
Plywood;
Polycarbonate;
Plastic pipe;
coupling;
Fasteners;
Masking tape:
Manual frezer;
Electric jigsaw;
Drill;
Glue gun;
Band saw;
Sander.
Then from the lid, using band saw, cuts out a circle with a diameter of 40 cm.
The place of the cut is glued and polished.
In a circle with a diameter of 40 cm, which remains from cutting out the bottom cover, cut out the middle according to the diameter of the plastic pipe. This blank will be installed at the top of the device.
For the side wall the author used transparent polycarbonate. This will allow you to control the operation of the filter and occupancy. trash can. I rolled up a polycarbonate cylinder and inserted it into the inner hole of the bottom cover. Marked and cut along the joint. I received a cylinder with a diameter of 40 cm and a height of 15 cm.
Having inserted the polycarbonate cylinder into the inner ring of the bottom cover, drill holes in 10 cm increments. Fix the cylinder with self-tapping screws. In order to crush the polycarbonate, the bottom of the screws must be flat.
The top cover is inserted into another part of the cylinder. Secure with tape. After drilling the holes, fasten the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws.
Jpg 
For the inlet and outlet holes the author used plastic pipe with a diameter of 7.6 cm, as well as two couplings for it.
First, the inlet hole is made. Cuts a 23 cm piece from the pipe. Cuts the coupling in half. Cut out a rectangle from plywood with sides 12.5 and 15 cm. Cut a hole in the middle 8.9 cm (outer diameter of the coupling). Inserting a pipe into the hole, secure it on both sides with a coupling. Seals the seam with hot glue.
A cut piece measuring 12.5 by 20 cm is screwed to the side wall of the rectangle (12.5 cm).
Then the author cuts the pipe and plywood in such a way that the curvature of the cut coincides with the curvature of the cylinder.
1
Having attached the structure to the installation site, he takes measurements to make a vertical support. Having cut it out, it is attached to the body. It attaches where the seam of the cylinder goes, thus closing it.
Marks the location of the inlet cutout on the polycarbonate. He cuts it out with a drill.
Installs the inlet pipe into the hole and secures it. The seam is sealed with hot glue.
Next he makes the outlet pipe. Cuts a 15 cm piece of pipe. Inserts it into the hole in the top cover. Installs a coupling on both sides. Treated with hot glue.
The author made the bottom screen from MDF. Screen size 46 cm in diameter, thickness 3 mm. Draw a circle at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Measures an angle of 120 degrees. Trims a strip between the sides of a corner. Screws the screen to the bottom cover so that the cutout begins immediately behind the inlet pipe.
DIY centrifugal fan for Cyclone
First I did centrifugal scroll fan. The body covers were made from plywood 20 mm thick, the body was bent from alucobond, light and durable composite material, 3 mm thick (photo 2). I milled grooves in the lids using
a hand router and a compass device for it with a cutter with a diameter of 3 mm and a depth of 3 mm (photo 3). I inserted the snail body into the grooves and tightened everything with long bolts. It turned out tough reliable design(photo 4). Then I made a fan for the snail from the same alucobond. I cut out two circles with a router, milled grooves into them (photo 5), 8 which I inserted into the blades (photo 6), and glued them using hot glue gun(photo 7). The result was a drum similar to a squirrel wheel (photo 8).
The impeller turned out to be light, durable and with precise geometry; it didn’t even have to be balanced. I put it on the engine axle. I completely collected the snail. A 0.55 kW 3000 rpm 380 V engine was at hand.
I connected and tested the fan on the go (photo 9). It blows and sucks very strongly.
DIY cyclone body
Using a router and compass, I cut out base circles from 20 mm plywood (photo 10). I bent the upper cylinder body from a roofing sheet, screwed it with self-tapping screws to a plywood base, sealed the joint with double-sided tape, tied the sheet together with two ties and riveted it with blind rivets (photo 11). In the same way I made the lower conical part of the body (photo 12). Further
inserted pipes into the cylinder, used polypropylene for external sewerage 0 160 mm, glued them with hot glue (photo 13). Suction pipe in advance with inside added a cylinder rectangular shape. I preheated it with a hairdryer and inserted a wooden frame into it. rectangular section and cooled (photo 14). I bent the housing for the air filter in the same way. By the way, I used a filter from KamAZ because large area filter curtain (photo 15). I connected the upper cylinder and the lower cone, screwed the snail on top,
connected air filter using polypropylene bends to the cochlea (photo 16). I assembled the entire structure, placed a plastic barrel under the sawdust, and connected it to the lower cone with a transparent corrugated pipe to see the filling level. Conducted tests homemade unit: connected it to jointer, which produces the most chips (photo 17). The tests went with a bang, not a speck on the floor! I was very pleased with the work done.
DIY cyclone – photo
- Cyclone assembled. This installation provides high level air purification.
- Fan parts.
- The grooves in the lid were worked with a milling cutter using a compass tool with a cutter with a diameter of 3 mm and a depth of 3 mm.
- Case and fan ready for assembly.
- Before gluing the blades.
- The drum and impeller look like industrially manufactured parts.
- A glue gun comes to the rescue precisely at the moment when it is simply irreplaceable.
- Before assembling the electric motor, it is important to check the fastening of the impeller to the shaft.
- A powerful motor can turn the cyclone into a real vacuum cleaner!
- Blanks for the cyclone body.
- The upper cylinder body is made of galvanized roofing steel.
- The finished cone part awaits assembly.
- Propylene pipes as elements of inlet and outlet lines.
- The polypropylene pipe has turned from round and large to rectangular small.
- Kamaz filter for fine air purification after a cyclone.
- Polypropylene sewer outlets work well as an air line.
- Indeed, there is much less dust, and you can even walk the board clean.
© Oleg Samborsky, Sosnovoborsk, Krasnoyarsk Territory
HOW TO MAKE A HOOD IN YOUR WORKSHOP WITH YOUR OWN HANDS – OPTIONS, REVIEWS AND METHODS
DIY workshop hood
Required: galvanized sheet steel 1 mm thick plumbing pipes d 50 mm and adapters for them, vacuum cleaner, paint bucket.
- I drew a sketch of a cyclone and a wiring diagram for removing dust and sawdust (see figure on page 17). Cut out blanks for the cyclone body and cover
- I bent the edges of the straight sides of the tin body part (marked with dash-dotted lines in the drawing) to a width of 10 mm - for connection.
- On cutting the pipe, I gave the resulting workpiece a rounded conical shape. I fastened the lock (bent the edges into a hook) and crimped the tin.
- At the top and bottom of the case at an angle of 90 degrees, I bent the edges 8 mm wide to attach the lid and garbage bin.
- Cut out in the cylinder foramen ovale, installed a side pipe d 50 mm into it (photo 1), which was secured inside with a galvanized strip.
- I cut a hole in the lid, fixed the inlet pipe d 50 mm in it (photo 2), secured it finished part on the body and rolled the joint on an anvil.
- The cyclone riveted to the neck of the bucket (photo 3). I missed the joints of all elements silicone sealant.
- I fixed two channels along the wall exhaust system(photo 4) with flow change valves (photo 5) I installed a household vacuum cleaner nearby, and placed a bucket with a cyclone on the floor (see photo 3). I connected everything with rubber hoses.
CYCLONE HOOD DIAGRAM AND PHOTO
LED Garage Lamp Warped Industrial Lamp E27/E26 Led High Bay…
Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment is quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.
What is a cyclone and why is it needed?
In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to have the opportunity to clean and liquid waste.
The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.
These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. The homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various kinds machine tools In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.
Difference between wet and dry cyclone
To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Exhaust duct Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make it rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.
As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.
In the majority washing vacuum cleaners Air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.
Made from scrap materials
The simplest and affordable option for the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.
The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes is required diameter- use homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.
The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.
The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
- WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.
The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the bell is located with outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is manufactured with the expectation of wet cleaning, you should increase the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.
The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall, or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.
How to adapt the device for machines and tools
To be able to draw in waste when using manual and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.
With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:
- If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
- To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
- When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
- Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for a band saw or router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.
Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use
Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.
The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection with silicone sealant or plumbing tape, but usually the fit density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.
The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop
To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered excellent option, because this way the connection will be positioned optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.
When working in a workshop or at home grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, there is a need to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.
At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.
In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on purchase construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.
The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter
There are several options for making a cyclone for domestic needs. To decide on the most effective scheme operation of the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.
Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.
The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).
Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.
Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.
Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.
Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.
In addition, it is necessary to select a motor that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal operating parameters of the equipment.
Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.
The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.
The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.
In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the filter at the outlet, and will require constant cleaning.
To improve the design, we suggest supplementing the plastic barrel with a homemade cyclone made from traffic cone. It is best if the work is carried out over several hours, install stationary option equipment for removing dust from the workplace.
In this case we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.
Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the filter.
In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.
Selection of equipment - what is needed for work
For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:
- Plastic barrel;
- Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
- Traffic cone;
- Corrugated hoses, reinforced with steel wire or metallized hoses;
- Adhesive for plastic;
- Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
- Plywood 10-12 mm thick.
The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.
To make a filter you will need to purchase:
- Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
- A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
- Corrugated hoses.
A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.
Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process
Our first option is stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.
Assembling a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner - First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone to allow the sewer pipe to pass tangentially.
- For better connection The mating surface of the pipe with the cone body is matted with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
- In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal size base of the cone.
- The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
- To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe is clogged with debris, it does not deform under the influence of vacuum; inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions frames repeat inner diameter barrels. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
- Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.
The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.
If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented with a car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.