Home vacuum cleaner so familiar in households that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air– filter.
Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. However, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.
Filter creators are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and throughput for air. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.
He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal cyclone-type scorch and chip storage for quite a long time.
But no one thought to use it physical phenomenon at home. In 1986 he registered a patent for the first vacuum cleaner cyclone type, with the name G-Force.
In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:
- Filter membrane. The most widespread and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
- Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air flow comes out. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to their high cost.
- Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the “cyclone” type. It is a compromise in cost and quality of cleaning compared to a membrane and water filter. Let's look at this model in more detail.
Operating principle of a cyclone
The illustration shows the processes occurring in the chamber of a cyclone-type filter.
Contaminated air enters the filter housing (2) through the pipe (1) cylindrical. The pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) twists into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.
Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning they exit into the receiving fan (7).
In the process of various construction and repair work indoors, there is often a need to remove construction waste. It is not recommended to use a regular vacuum cleaner for this purpose, since there is a high probability of failure of the filter, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. For this purpose, a construction vacuum cleaner is used, which is designed specifically for such work.
Let's look at what a construction (industrial) vacuum cleaner is and its main differences from a household one.
The power of a construction vacuum cleaner is several times greater than that of a household vacuum cleaner and can reach 4 kW. Thanks to this, you can easily remove construction debris, both small and large. With its help, you can easily remove cement dust, fragments of plaster, various fragments and sand, etc. The body of an industrial vacuum cleaner is mainly made of metal.
The vacuum cleaner has a reinforced filtration system. The motor of such a vacuum cleaner can work for a long time and withstand heavy loads, thanks to special system cooling. The dust collector capacity of a construction vacuum cleaner is much larger than a conventional vacuum cleaner. All construction vacuum cleaners have an outlet for connecting power tools.
Such a vacuum cleaner costs more than a regular one, so many craftsmen try to make a construction vacuum cleaner with their own hands by remaking a household vacuum cleaner, and often encounter certain difficulties.
This article contains the most successful technical solutions on how to convert a household vacuum cleaner into a construction vacuum cleaner. If you have a medium-power vacuum cleaner at home, then if you wish, you can turn it into a construction vacuum cleaner. Or you can buy an inexpensive vacuum cleaner and, by improving it, turn it into an industrial one. To do this, you don’t have to remake the vacuum cleaner itself, you just need to make external filter DIY cyclone. Next, we will consider two main options for manufacturing such a filter with and without a cone.
A description of homemade cyclone filters is given in this article mainly to introduce you to general idea and the operating principle of such devices. This means that, having familiarized yourself with the design, you are not obliged to repeat it completely, but can make various changes to it, or using the basic idea, make a cyclone filter of a completely new design.
Operating principle of the cyclone filter
The operating principle of this filter is based on the passage of contaminated air through external device, in which large particles settle in its body, then the air is cleaned of fine dust, passing through the oil filter, and enters the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. Thus, the vacuum cleaner itself receives air that has already been purified from dust and debris.
Cyclone filter option 1 (without cone)
To make a cyclone filter with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials:
- Oil filter. It filters fine dust.
- Bucket with a tight-fitting lid 20 l.
- Polypropylene elbows, intended for water supply systems, and having an angle of 90 and 45 degrees and a diameter of 40 mm - 1 piece.
- Plumbing pipe, plastic – 1 meter, diameter 40 mm.
- A piece of corrugated pipe 2 meters long and 40 mm in diameter. You will need it to log into the device.
Manufacturing process
1. In the lid of the bucket, in the center, you need to cut a hole into which a 90-degree angle is inserted; a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.
2. Seal the cracks with sealant.
3. Cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket and insert a 45 degree corner.
4. A piece of pipe is used to connect the corrugation to the elbow.
5. For a longer service life of the filter, you can stretch a piece of nylon tights over it.
6. The filter outlet must be connected to the elbow in the bucket lid.
The filter may not be able to be placed on outlet pipe. For this purpose, you need to come up with some kind of adapter. A piece of corrugation for a plumbing siphon or a rubber hose of a certain diameter may be suitable. It is advisable to coat all connections with sealant. An oil filter can be purchased at a store that sells auto parts.
It must be borne in mind that when closing the inlet, the bucket may crack. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the bucket in some way, or provide something like a valve. The main thing is not to rush in this matter, measure all the connections, and then you will succeed.
Only one of the options is described above. Similar designs there are many. Instead of a bucket they use plastic barrels, there are designs where the role of a bucket is played by fan pipe. Many craftsmen make their own containers from tin or thin iron.
Some inventors design a cyclone filter using a cone. This design often uses a traffic cone.
Option 2 (using a traffic cone)
The following parts and materials will be required:
- Road cone (can be purchased at a car store).
- Two meter rods 8 mm.
- Washers, nuts and lock washers 8 mm.
- Corrugated tubes with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of about 2 meters - two pieces.
Manufacturing process
- Cut off the stand at the very base of the cone. The cone is inserted into the bucket from above upside down. A tube is inserted inside the bucket. The space between the cone and the tube should be filled with construction foam.
- Cut a square out of 20 mm thick plywood so that the base of the cone fits into it and still has some space left. 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the corners of the square. A hole is cut in the center for the tube; a corrugated hose will be placed on it, connecting the device to the vacuum cleaner.
- The lid for the bucket is cut out of multi-layer plywood and should fit tightly to the bucket. Glue a rubber gasket along its edges.
- A hole is sawed in the lid with a diameter for the narrow end of the cone.
- After the cone is inserted into the plywood cover, the joint is covered with foam. The cone should be placed upside down on the bucket, and is attached using four threaded rods, 50 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, they hold the plywood square with the cone screwed to it.
- Not far from the base of the cone, in its wide part, a hole is drilled for a tube to connect to a corrugated hose. Various construction waste will be sucked through it.
A fine filter is not used in this version of the cyclone, so fine dust can enter the vacuum cleaner turbine. When constructing such devices, vacuum cleaners with a bag are mainly used. Therefore, fine dust, if it gets inside, settles in the bag.
Options for homemade construction vacuum cleaners with an additional cyclone filter allow craftsmen to test various options, without fear of ruining the vacuum cleaner itself, since most of the debris is retained by the filter.
When making a cyclone filter with your own hands, do not be afraid to experiment, and in the end you will definitely achieve the desired result.
Process machining wooden blanks always accompanied by the release of dust or the scattering of shavings and sawdust. Modern power tools provide the ability to connect any installations for collection and disposal wood waste, but purchasing them for household needs is not always justified. At home, it successfully copes with the problem of dust removal homemade device. Let us consider in detail the procedure for making a vacuum cleaner for the workshop.
Necessary materials and tools
The basis for the project is an old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
Motor part;
Power regulator;
Power cord;
Suction hose;
Nozzles
For the homemade body, select a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50–80 liters, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
A piece of plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
M6 bolts and nuts – 14 pieces each;
Strip of galvanized sheet metal;
Air filter from a minibus;
220 Volt switch;
Threaded rod with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue rods;
Drain corrugated hose for washing machine;
Electrical installation corrugation HDPE 32.
Docking units are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the pipes on the tools and the diameters of the vacuum cleaner intake hoses. List of tools used:
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Wire cutters;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Caulk gun.
The process of making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop
Stepping back approximately 100 mm from the top, mark a hole on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drill it using a drill. Then use a knife to give the hole oval shape so that the inner end of the pipe is placed close to the wall and is directed downward at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using glue gun, fix the pipe in place.
Using the same “hot” method, an adapter for the suction hose is attached to the outside of the pipe.
Using a jigsaw, cut out two circles from plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. First, two holes are made in the blanks for bolts and the parts are secured on both sides of the cover. Next, drill the remaining holes, remove the circles and remove the burrs with sandpaper. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the workpieces, place the parts on the lid and fully install the fasteners. A hole is made for the pin in the center of the plywood circles, and a little to the side for the air intake of the motor block.
Remove from the air filter with pliers metal mesh, otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with cleaning the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is covered with a plywood plug.
The prepared filter element is secured to the stud with a wing nut.
The motor part usually has round shapes. Therefore, for ease of installation, the plastic parts in which the motor was located are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner. Thanks to them, to secure the unit to the barrel lid, you only need one clamp, made from a strip of tin.
A switch and power regulator are placed next to the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. All that remains is to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with the plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, apply power and check the operation of the device.
Standard suction hose household vacuum cleaner too short - it is extended with a corrugated tube for laying wiring or another similar product.
Manufacturing of nozzles and adapters
Cleanliness in the workshop begins with the workbench. To clean the workplace, use a standard brush that comes with the household appliance.
The nozzle is connected using a rubber adapter cut from a tube of appropriate caliber, for example, from a pipe of a car’s cooling system.
One of the most littered power tools is the power planer. The outlet fitting of the tool is large enough; most likely, the vacuum cleaner hose will connect without problems.
The design does not provide a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often to prevent the vacuum cleaner from overfilling.
Cleanliness and order in a home workshop is the result of work done with your own hands, achieved with a minimum of financial investment.
About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English “HEPA” is translated as “High Efficiency Particulate Air” - a filter for particles contained in the air. 
Agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment like a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.
Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they also come in different types: battery-powered, washing, and pneumatic. As well as automobile, low-voltage industrial, backpack, gasoline, etc.
Operating principle of a cyclone vacuum cleaner
James Dyson is the first creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.
A little later in the 1990s, he submitted a request to manufacture cyclone devices and had already assembled his own center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the Dayson DC01, went on sale.
So, how does this cyclone-type miracle work?
It appears that the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in collecting dust.
The device has two chambers and is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that spins inside the dust collector moves upward, as if in a spiral. 
According to the law, large dust particles fall into the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. This is how vacuum cleaners work cyclone filter.
Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features
Do not opt for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like this kind of cleaning and most likely, you will want to throw away such a device.
Don't waste your money, but take a more serious approach to buying a vacuum cleaner. You just have to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with choosing a particular vacuum cleaner.
You should choose a device that is 20-30% more powerful than a bagged vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 W. Almost all vacuum cleaner manufacturers produce models with this filter, which is good news.
Advantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. This has probably happened to everyone, when an item you accidentally needed ended up in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice objects that need to be pulled out of there as quickly as possible.
This is one of the most important advantages.
2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not reduce speed and power, even when the container is clogged. Cleaning is much more enjoyable, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.
This vacuum cleaner is capable of holding much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.
3. By buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner, you are not only making a good purchase, but also saving space for storing it, since its weight is quite light. You won't have to carry heavy weights. 
4. There is no need to constantly change paper bags for the vacuum cleaner.
5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.
6. It can be washed thoroughly with water and dried.
Disadvantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you won’t have to clean the container with a brush every day, but still, this is one of the disadvantages. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, of course it’s unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.
2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a regular one.
3. Energy consumption. It is also much higher than that of a conventional vacuum cleaner. It's a small tornado.
It's up to you to decide whether to buy this little miracle or not. In fact, all its advantages outweigh its few shortcomings. A clean house is much nicer than a half-finished tidy, wouldn’t you agree?
Personal impressions
Compared to an old vacuum cleaner, the cyclonic dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little thing is capable of something serious. Now old vacuum cleaner Can only be used for wet cleaning.
When I use it for the first time, I take out the accessories, insert a small diameter pipe, turn on the device, and what’s really surprising is that the brush cleans the carpets much better than my previous assistant.
He cleans everything. Dirt, hair from our pets. Previously, you had to make a lot of effort to cope with such “now little things”.
I have laminated flooring in my hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, tougher than the previous one for carpets, so I coped with this task so easily. You know, the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet. 
I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary attachments; it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.
Once I knew what this little tornado could do, it was time to clean out the container. Thank God, when I started emptying the dust collector, it fell in dense, large clumps.
Since the debris was compacted by the air flow. No clouds of dust were visible, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclonic vacuum cleaner. I rinsed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!
Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo
All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. This applies to all vacuum cleaners.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are quite expensive, since the operating principle of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that industrial devices are most often used during repairs and construction. Leave yours workplace needs to be clean.
DIY cyclone, from transparent plastic video
Construction work is carried out after preparing it and cleaning the surface. As you understand, General cleaning impossible to do with a regular vacuum cleaner. In other words, this is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris such as sand, oil, dry mixtures, powdered abrasives and wood shavings are designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Are you planning to use a vacuum cleaner in a repair environment? Then consider the DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner option. There are many examples of how you can make this kind of vacuum cleaner.
DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner
1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner yourself, you will need a Ural PN-600 Vacuum Cleaner, a plastic bucket (even suitable for paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes need to be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets using a grinder and remove the pipe fastenings. Before doing this, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert it onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole in the middle with a drill. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. To seal it, cut out gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm.
6. Then you need to put everything together, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. You will need 20 self-tapping screws.
8. Cut a hole from the side of the bucket along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut for metal.
10. Don’t forget that you need to try on the inside too. Also leave strips on the inside for self-tapping screws.
11. Using a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and trim off the excess material with scissors. Attach the pipe to the outside of the bucket.
12. To seal everything you need to use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like “titanium” for polystyrene foam. Wrap a bandage around the pipe and soak it with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue is drying, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it, blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the process of sealing and connection with the pipe is improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. It is best to store the vacuum cleaner in a case.
Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.
To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).
I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner , and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).
I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!
I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.
The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:
The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).
The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.
For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.
The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which with the corresponding rubber coupling The hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly.
The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.
I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)
The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.
The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.
The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.
For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.
The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.
To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).
After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.
For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.
The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.
When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.
The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.
To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.
Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).
I made a hole for the outlet pipe.
I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.
The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.
Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:
Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.
The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.
To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.
The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.
To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.
In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.
To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.
The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of work with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore this function no test was performed.
CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:
The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.
The main disadvantages of this design:
— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.
— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.
— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.
— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.
Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.
In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.
I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.