DIY ski boot repair. Ski boot repair For repairs you will need

GAIT analysis
(right choice sneakers)

When you pay for the service you receive a certificate
for 1,000 rub. to buy sneakers

about 60 minutes

Selection of sneakers using video analysis

A video camera is installed behind the treadmill with adjustable speed and inclination of the belt, allowing you to film from high frequency frames. After warming up with steps, the run is recorded at a comfortable pace. This way you can test several pairs of sneakers to choose the best one. suitable model.

Special software allows you to view the recording frame-by-frame, and subtle details of the biomechanics of running become visible. Of particular value is the ability to measure angles in the joints (primarily the ankle) in various phases of the running stride. The specialist who selects running shoes also evaluates your overall running technique.

What are we doing:

• Determine pronation - selecting shoes in accordance with the severity of pronation reduces the risk of injury.
• We determine the correct placement of the foot when running - when running with correct positioning feet, you use energy most efficiently, so you run faster and longer.
• We correct possible deviations in running technique - correct running biomechanics minimizes the load on the musculoskeletal system and the cardiovascular system.
• We select models of running shoes taking into account your individual characteristics.

Details: mining repairs ski boots with your own hands from a real master for the website website.

At the height of the ski season, my ski boots failed - the rivets in the protruding toe fell out due to heavy load, and the sole began to peel off. There was no point in gluing the sole with superglue without additional fastening, and the workshop did not have the opportunity to install new rivets. Then the idea came up to use bolts with washers and a nut instead of rivets.

The article will be useful to those who find themselves in a similar situation. Doing this type of ski boot repair yourself is not at all difficult.

3x40mm flat head bolt, nut and two washers

A piece of PVC linen cord 200-250 mm long

Metal hacksaw blade or wire cutters

Adhesive for gluing leather and rubber

Step 1. Let's prepare necessary tools and materials.

Step 2. We remove the remaining parts of the rivets and clean the surfaces to be glued.

Step 3. We pull a piece of linen cord through the rivet holes and remove its end from the shoe.

Step 4. Insert a bolt with a washer on it into the hole in the cord.

Step 5. Pull the cord with the bolt through the hole. In the same way, insert the second bolt into the hole.

Step 6. We put washers on the protruding parts of the bolts, screw on the nuts, apply glue to the cleaned surfaces and tighten the nuts.

Step 7. Stepping back from the nut by 3-4 mm, cut off the protruding parts of the bolts. To prevent the nuts from unscrewing, the bolts must be riveted.

I hope that after repair the ski boots will last for more than one season.

For safe skiing on the ski slopes, it is important to have reliable, high-quality equipment. Boots are an important part of the equipment, which affects not only the comfort, but also the health of the athlete. During active skating, especially in short track style, masterful turns sport shoes breaks down quickly.

Repairing ski boots is an expensive business, and you need to find good master. However, some problems can be solved on your own.

This is a common problem among ski enthusiasts. It often occurs at the height of the season due to heavy workload. The sole may come off completely or just the toe.

You can repair it yourself using small screws, glue and nuts. First we connect the back part. If you have fastenings without holes, then make several holes at the junction with the shoes. Insert the nuts with the cap down. Roll them inside the shoe. The nose is repaired in the same way.

You can strengthen the connection using shoe glue. Pre-clean and degrease the sole part. Gluing is an additional procedure to fastening with nuts.

If used carelessly or with a sharp jerk, the clasp can be damaged. Often, it is produced in the form of Velcro. In this case, to repair ski boots with your own hands you will need sewing supplies - strong thread, thick needle and thick fabric.

If it is completely torn into 2 parts, you need to connect them using a piece of prepared fabric. If the clasp has come off the ring, then attach it too, using fabric. If the special ring has been lost, you can use wire. However, this is a temporary option, since such a fastener will quickly break.

In professional stores you can find spare parts that will help restore the boot.

This plastic element is extremely important; it is present in all expensive models of ski shoes. This allows you to securely fix the leg in the heel area, preventing injuries.

But his problem is that he often leans away from the boot itself. To repair, buy 2 bolts with a small diameter. Drill holes in the clamp. Using bolts, connect the bar to the boot and tighten them from the inside.

When a pin breaks, skiers face three problems:

1. The plastic that holds the pin weakens or wears away, and it begins to wobble.
2. It completely falls away from the attachment point.
3. The pin was bent or dented while riding.

The first 2 difficulties can be solved with epoxy glue, tape and a file. First, using sandpaper (preferably fine sandpaper), carefully clean the area that will be glued. Insert the pin in place, secure it with tape, and fill it with glue. Let it dry for a day, remove excess glue with a file. You will have to try hard to remove the tape.

It is possible to repair a bent pin if the strength of the fastening is not significantly damaged. To do this, you need to make a mandrel by tapping on both sides with a hammer.

Snowboard boots are repaired in the same way as ski boots. However, snowboarders may encounter the following problems: rust on the fittings, worn seams, loose lacing. If there are problems with fastening, the part needs to be replaced. Attempting to repair it yourself will not return it to its original functionality, and riding may become dangerous.

Careful operation, timely cleaning and proper storage in the off-season it will avoid many problems with ski equipment.

Lubrication, sharpening, repair alpine skiing with your own hands - it’s real. In the article we will share our experience on how to set up the process at home, what tools and materials to use and where to buy them.

Self care Taking care of alpine skis - lubricating, sharpening, repairing - seems complicated to ordinary skiers. There are a lot of things that scare us various instruments, noisy machines and splashes of sparks that we see in ski service centers.

Reichmann machine – repair and maintenance of alpine skis

However, putting your skis in order with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem when you look at this chilling sight. To do this, you need a little knowledge, as well as a set of tools and materials. And later the necessary skills will appear.

Why bother lubricating, sharpening and repairing your skis yourself? And so as not to run to the service center for every little thing, wasting precious time and money. And the service center can be very far away, especially if you ride off-piste.

Yes, we ourselves can apply the necessary lubricant in accordance with the weather, repair “holes” in the sliding surface and perform general pre-season maintenance.

Then again, who doesn't love tinkering with their skis, especially early in the season! We cherish them and cherish them as the things dearest to our hearts.

Today, the bathyscaphe descends to depths where materials and tools for ski care are hidden from our eyes. Do you feel how the cool sea wind brings the light smell of hot paraffin? If not, buy drops, you have a clear runny nose. Sneeze and breathe in all the salt of our vast ski ocean!

In any case, get to your places! The captain is already impatiently biting the helm.

So, in this article we will talk about the simplest manipulations with skis. More complex repairs - broken fastenings, torn edges - are best carried out in special workshops, which, as a rule, exist at every decent ski and boarder rental.

That's how they go, right? Of course they do, but they can go better, and much better. Everything is relative.

The two most important factors, which help you get more pleasure from skiing, are sharp edges and an excellent sliding bottom surface of the skis (popularly known as “slider”, “slider”). And the drier the sliding surface, the more scratches it has and the duller the edges, the worse it is for us.

It takes much more effort to turn on neglected skis than to control well-sharpened and oiled skis. If you don’t believe it, don’t, but the time will come when you will understand what we were talking about. Then appreciate the amazing feeling of gliding and grip that is inherent in well-maintained skis!

There are two options for caring for your skis: you either regularly take them to a service workshop and pay for maintenance ( Maintenance), or spend a one-time amount of money on ointments and tools, and then save your hard-earned money and put your skis in order yourself.

The first option is simple and dull. The second is educational and makes life more interesting, which will be discussed below.

Well, now we have come to the most important thing - the stages of maintaining your skis, which consists of 5 steps:

• Preparation and cleaning.
• Repair of sliding surface.
• Edge sharpening.
• Cleaning and lubricating the sliding surface.
• Polishing the sliding surface.

If the skis have not been put in order for a long time or have been used intensively, you may need to polish the sliding surface on a machine (you will still need to go to a workshop for this). And only then start working on them yourself. Find a table at home, an office one will do, because signing contracts is no more important than skiing in the mountains, right?

To fix skis on a household table you will need the following fasteners:

Mounting alpine skis on a household table

For example, a set of Toko brand vices in the Kant store costs about 17,000 rubles.

Ideally, you need a special workbench with a vice, but you will purchase it later when you realize the joy of personal ski care. Now lift up your ski stops, secure them with a rubber band (like in the picture above) and wipe down your skis so they are clean and dry.

Wipe a heavily contaminated surface with a special cloth, for example fiberlene - it does not leave lint that interferes with work.

Special lint-free Fiberlene fabric

The easiest way to repair scratches on a slide is to use P-Tex plastic plugs. If you do this regularly, and there are several pairs of skis in the family, it is better to purchase a special thermal gun (although it is not easy to find one in Russia).

Thermal gun for repairing skis and snowboards

If it happens from time to time, burying deep scratches with molten plastic will do.

Here is the sequence of work:

• Clean the work area with a wash;
• Use a sharp knife to cut off the peeling plastic around the “wound”;
• Drip it with melted P-Tex candle;
• Let cool to room temperature;
• Carefully trim off excess plastic until you have a uniformly level surface;
• Sand the repaired area with fine-grit sandpaper.

Important: any repairs to the sliding surface can only begin after the skis/snowboard have been thoroughly dried.

Always use protective gloves when sharpening edges to avoid cutting yourself. Even if you see a bare hand in the picture below, this is just a promotional photo.

Sharpening edges of alpine skis

Clamp the skis in a vice as shown in the figure. Using a special file (file) and a guide angle with a clamp or a special “edge cutter,” sharpen the edges with smooth movements along the entire length of the ski.

Use short, overlapping passes with the file, gradually lengthening them. Clean the file of shavings with a wire brush after every few strokes.

Repeat these steps on both edges. The direction of sharpening does not matter. Don't press too hard, let the sharp file do the job.

For greater clarity, I found an informative video on the Internet on sharpening edges at home. For those interested, watch (English).

Rotate the ski in the vice so that the sliding surface is facing upward. Remove old wax and dirt with a plastic scraper. For best results, use a “hot scrape”: heat the wax with an iron and scrape the skis with a plastic scraper (in a pinch, you can use a CD box) while the wax is still warm.

If the paraffin is very dirty, use an iron to apply a layer of “base” paraffin, and then brush it off - this will help you clean the slip better.

Scrape old wax off skis

You can lubricate your skis with an iron or using a ready-made lubricant that is applied to cold skis. Either method prevents the sliding surface from drying out, reduces friction and helps the projectiles glide better.

Oiled skis are easier to control. Hot paraffin and iron provide better lubrication because the paraffin penetrates deeper into the pores of the sliding surface material and lasts longer.

Applying paraffin to a sliding surface using an iron

You can also use a ready-made lubricant - it is easy to use, but it does not protect the slip for so long and ensure good gliding. This option is ideal for quick lubrication in field conditions when it is not possible to use the hot method.

Both lubricant options – “under the iron” and “for cold” – are available in two types: for any snow temperature (universal ointment) and for specific temperature conditions (special lubricants).

Universal options will work effectively in most cases, but for a narrow temperature range it is better to use special lubricants and paraffins; they are more effective than universal ones. The result is that the skis will glide faster and we will spend less energy.

The more often you heat your skis, the better the sliding surface will absorb lubricant. So, ideally, you should turn on the iron after each ride. It is no coincidence that athletes lubricate their skis before every training session, not to mention competitions.

Well, it’s better not for athletes to use hot way before going to the mountains, and after each ride, lubricate with a universal lubricant designed for cold application.

Once you've finished treating your skis, let them cool to room temperature.

Using a sharp plastic scraper, remove any excess wax. What remains in the pores of the material is quite enough for excellent ski glide.

Then, using a horsehair or nylon brush, thoroughly polish the skid, using firm pressure from the tip to the tail of the ski.

Repair spark plugs for skis Toko

So, now we know how to care for our skis (and boards) - how to sharpen edges, repair and lubricate the sliding surface. At the end, here is a list of what you will need to work from home:

• Repair plastic P-Tex.
• Fibertex and remover for old grease.
• A special file and a corner with a clamp or “edge cutter”.
• Plastic scraper (scraper).
• A stiff brush made of horsehair or nylon.
• Sanding paper.
• Universal paraffin.

Manufacturers of materials and tools for ski care:

All manufacturers are worthy, and the websites of all three have been translated into Russian. By clicking on the links, you will find a lot of useful information: what other tools are available, where you can buy them, how much they cost.

By the way, you will probably find an old iron with a temperature regulator, a lighter and a knife in the household, and buy a brush for cleaning the file and work gloves where it is convenient.

Once again I enjoyed writing this work. I hope it will be useful to you. Leave comments, requests and complaints, I will be happy to answer any question. Thanks to my friends who filled in the gaps in my experience and knowledge.

Let's float up... no, one second...

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• They allow the use of external boots large volume For various forms legs
• They make it easier to select and try on boots.
• They allow you to sell the consumer some illusion of the possibility of self-adjustment.

• They allow you to take boots of your usual size (with a plus allowance) and fit them more or less correctly on your feet.
• They allow you to solve the problem of fixing specifically narrow feet and legs.
• They allow freestyle skiers to safely land spinning jumps while minimizing the risk of ankle injuries.
• In part, they help solve the problem of freezing feet.

• The leg is “suspended” in the foam core.
• The accuracy of force transfer to the skis decreases.
• The desired improvement in thermal insulation and shock absorption for those with voluminous legs is not always achievable.

SPORTS-MARATHON: THE LARGEST TOURIST AND SKI STORE IN MOSCOW. SAIKINA 4

You may think that Sport-Marathon is just another sports and travel store in Moscow, and you would be wrong. We do sell clothes and equipment for alpine skiing and snowboarding, as well as tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other products for outdoor activities. But this is where our similarities with other stores end. We are different!

Having worked in the market of top-end equipment for more than ten years, the managers of our company have accumulated a huge amount of knowledge in order to try to make truly the best ski and outdoor store in Moscow! And believe me, these are not empty words. Personal passion for tourism and skiing, hundreds of hours at exhibitions and seminars and many years of cooperation with the best distribution companies allow us to present a truly outstanding range.

In addition to an excellent assortment, we tried to make our store not only pleasant and convenient place for shopping, but a real Club and a favorite meeting place for all lovers of tourism, skiing and outdoor activities in general. So we did new renovation, ordered special, individual retail equipment, spent a long time choosing a comfortable and pleasant light, and even developed what we think is the best loyalty system for the most active customers. We've even found a cafeteria area where you can grab a bite to eat during your tiring but enjoyable shopping spree!

Ski boot repairs are done at almost any ski service center. For Moscow, I will take the liberty of recommending Vitaly from the Mountain Ski store on the corner of Lyublinskaya and Saratovskaya streets (Lublinskaya str., 7/2k1), Tekstilshchiki metro station, his tel. +7 910 400 8619 (hello to him from Oleg AnalyzeR!)

What breaks/wears out and is repaired:

• Clips - if you didn’t notice how they came undone, they break easily, and this is the most common breakdown. They are simply replaced with a suitable one.

• The soles of the shoes - when walking on asphalt, the heel breaks, after some time the shoe simply begins to spontaneously fall out of the fastenings. In this case, a heel is glued to the sole, which levels the sole. The same method is used to adjust the camber of boots for skiers with X and O shaped feet - this, by the way, is required by the majority!
• The inner boot (aka felt boot) changes entirely and is shaped to fit your feet. As the most reliable, wear-resistant and good control option, I recommend Intuition inner boots, you can buy them here >>

I have a problem with ski boots - the outer layer on one of the boots is torn at the seam, I guess it can’t withstand the fullness of the climb. More details can be found at photos of my ski boot.

Do you think it can be sewn up or repaired?

If so, who is doing this in Yaroslavl? Contacts?

Or take it for granted and budget for new boots?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

• Cleanup work on the ski slope in the village. Nor. - October 20, 2018 (Saturday) at 09.00, everyone is invited.
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• Route in the Mikhailovsky Forest. New pet. - Friends, hello everyone! Of course, you know about the training.

Vladimir, at first glance, your problem with repairing a ski boot can be solved. Or rip apart the tear, glue the material from the inside and zigzag stitch the torn area. Then sew it in place. Unless, of course, the material has become less durable with age! You just need to find a good shoemaker.

That year I found a female shoemaker. Does it carefully and efficiently. Located in the shopping center "Compass", ground floor(basement) - Yaroslavl, Dzerzhinsky district, Northern residential area, 10th microdistrict, Arkhangelsky proezd, 1B.

Here's Rossignol for you! For elite boots they use one material, while for others they use a cheaper one, which falls apart after a while.

According to information received, there is also a shoe workshop next to the YaMZ entrance, where skiers repaired their ski boots. They say that the renovation was perfect.

Alexey, Thank you very much for the options!
Motorny would be closer for me; now I rarely go to Bragino.
I’ll go, first to the central entrance on Oktyabrya Avenue, and look there!

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    Alexander, thank you.
  • Minfo
    Hi all. To say that I did not prepare for this trail means.
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    Why are there so few reviews, or rather, none at all?
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    Congratulations on a successful finish at a distance of 21 km: Tatyana.
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There is a reason for what Flash said - in production, plastic is not so much thermoformed as THERMOPOLYMERIZED.

that is, it is like paint - it polymerizes once, and that’s it. Then, when heated, it will not be at all as plastic as it was with the same heating at the time of molding. And there’s nothing you can do about it. If you overheat, it begins to decompose, with a loss of strength, naturally.

In general, the results:
Rossignol Salto GTX boots
Placed opposite problem area inside, a spacer imitating a bone at the base of the big toe was placed under pressure, so that the boot expanded compared to its original position.
We warmed it with a construction hairdryer, without fanaticism, carefully.
During the heating process, there was no visible change in the structure and appearance of the material, but the plastic became soft.
As a result, at the place where the spacer rested, the boot softened and bent, and after cooling it retained its acquired shape.
The fitting showed that the problem with pressure on the bone was completely eliminated; all that remained was to check it on a slope, in “combat” conditions.

The photo is terrible. The left shoe in the photo (toes are facing the photographer), “squeezed out” towards the neighbor

I’ll update an old topic a little.

Boots put pressure on the bones in a couple of places in the foot.
There was a desire to add space there - to expand the “soap box” of UPZ-com.
From the tools - old board with a frog mount, several pieces of board, including a support board with a recess for the bolt head, with through holes for an M8 bolt, a “finishing” blotch in an extruded shape, an adjustable wrench, a bolt with a nut and a “body” washer, construction hair dryer.

I marked the location of the hood inside and out in advance.
I secured the soap dish into the frog, installed a support piece of wood inside with a recess for the head of the bolt, and a bolt into it, onto which a pair of pieces of wood with a hole and a thrust piece were placed.
He unscrewed the nut, resting the “punch” against Right place soap dish and making a “tightness”

Using a construction hairdryer, I carefully warmed up the soap dish inside and out, and gradually unscrewed the nut.
From the initial 8 turns of the visible thread section, I went up to 15 turns, where I stopped.

After the soap dish cooled down, I tightened the nut and shook out the tool. On the soap dish, in the desired place, there remains a visible and very noticeable bulge; from the inside, accordingly, there is a notch

Photos of the left (non-stretched) and right (stretched) boots.
As far as we could measure, the difference “before” and “after” was approximately 3-4 mm. All that remains is to check the result on the slope.

Because Rossignol.

I would be very grateful to those who answer the question - where in Moscow I can glue it.

Until recently, about this (not the first time this has happened to me), I contacted a specialist in the M Yugozapadnaya area, but for some reason now I can’t get through to him. Maybe the number has changed.

Along the way, it will be interesting to find out how this is, in principle, done correctly. I strongly suspect that this is... Epoxy resin. But the brand, hardener, plasticizer (if necessary), as well as the place where you can buy it, is a mystery to me.

In the life of every ski athlete, there are problems associated with equipment breakdown. In this article we will try to help you cope with the repair of ski boots (on SNS and Rotofella bindings).

One of the terrible breakdowns is when the sole comes off. It is almost impossible to return the boot to its previous condition. However there is one the right way! To do this we need small screws and a few thin nuts. All parts are sold at any hardware store. Let's make several narrow holes with a drill (according to the diameter of the screw), and insert our screws into them (it is advisable to drill at the junction of the boot with the mount), head down, screw our nuts from the inside of the boot.

Also, for better and long-term retention, it is necessary to glue the 2 parts (sole and shoe) with glue, for example “Poxipol”. So we only attached the bottom of the boot.

The toe of the boot also remains. Let's drill a hole at the toe of the boot. Just like in the sole, insert a screw and tighten it with a nut. If desired, you can install a rivet (it is advisable to purchase screws with a flat head).

All SNS type boots have a clasp, usually just one. If used carelessly, it may break. If this happens, you need to get a thread, a needle, or a strong piece of fabric. Remove the torn Velcro (fastener) from the boot. If the Velcro is torn into two parts, then it is necessary to sew thick fabric to the two torn parts at the place of the tear. If the fastener comes off in the place where a plastic ring is sewn to it, which clings to the shoe, then you need to put the fabric on the Velcro.

Wrap the edge of the fabric around the ring and sew. If you lose it, you can use stiff wire, but it won't last as long. At competitions they sell parts for boots (rarely). So if you lose any parts, you can buy them again. And also in the branded showrooms of the manufacturers of these boots.

On boots of a good brand such as “Pilot SNS”, special foot clamps are installed. It often happens that these clips fall off the shoe. To return the boot to its previous appearance, and most importantly to the foot lock, you need 2 bolts (small diameter). We drill 2 holes in the plastic strip (clamp).

And we pass them through the clamp and insert them into the boot. Accordingly, tighten the nut from the inside of the boot. Now the latch will perform the same functions. And you won't have to buy new shoes.

The pin (or shackle) is a key part of the boot.

I offer my own way of protecting the pins. If you have already discovered that the plastic holding the pin has begun to wear out, or the pin has already fallen out, do not be upset. You can try to cope with this problem. To do this, we will need epoxy glue (don't take it as an advertisement, but I used Bison brand glue), tape, a file, sandpaper and newspaper (so as not to litter with production waste :)).

The idea is to fill the pin in the shoe epoxy glue. First, clean up sandpaper the place that will be filled with glue. If the pin falls out, put it back in place. To prevent the glue from spilling out of the intended area, cover the plastic grooves on the toes of the shoes with tape, after which the prepared glue can be poured. After this operation the boot will look something like this:

For the glue to completely harden, you need to wait a day (without removing the tape). After the glue has hardened, remove the tape (if it comes off :)) and clean off the excess glue with a file so that it can be inserted into the mount. That's practically all.

But there are many ways to avoid letting your boots get to that point. I will give some of them that will help your boots live a long and long time. good life:

– change shoes, i.e. wear boots to the ski track and back;

– wipe the iron pins with a rag after training, because snow is also water, corrosion can occur (although now the pins are made of stainless steel);

– do not walk in boots on asphalt, this is destructive, because... the layer of plastic begins to peel off, and the pin can simply fall out;

– if it is still very difficult for you to carry your boots with you to the ski track and back, then buy special covers for ski boots, or if you feel sorry for money, make them yourself. Here is an example of homemade covers:

This is how you can put it on your boot:

By following all these tips, you will extend the life of your ski boots.

The master there has golden hands. If he is free, he will take it.

Such things, perhaps, will really be repaired: aha:

But here I took it upon myself to treat a specific breakdown...

I received shoes with a broken heel - 1/3 of the pad on the foot was chipped off + a small chip in the plastic of the shoe itself.

Yesterday I started repairs and used epoxy. while it hardens.

I promise to make a cool report upon completion of the renovation.

I won’t have a cool report, but there is some food for thought.

Original: a shoe with a crack at the toe. There is a crack on the side, from the point where the toe and side meet. I treated it like this:
a hole is drilled at the end of the crack (well, that's understandable)
I tried to grab it with epoxy but it didn’t take it (well, it depends on the plastic – I treated the surface normally)
from metal mesh a “patch” of a suitable size and shape is cut out (so that it covers the crack with a good margin) and fused into the body of the boot with a soldering iron.

I skated on the bots repaired in this way for a couple of days, the mesh was a little frayed, but we can consider that the test passed. Of course, the bots are already clinically dead, but the corpse is moving and even performing the functions assigned to it.
If anyone is interested, I can take a photo of him (a corpse, I mean).

PS this method can only work for cracks; it will not return the broken piece))
By the way, waterboy, as an option - to build a new cover (it is removable, you can simply replace it). Since no epoxy will withstand the loads that fall on this part of the boot.

Skiers will understand me well. Especially those who have encountered this at least once. And if you haven’t encountered it yet, then sooner or later you will definitely encounter it.

Salomon ski boots

So you buy Salomon (or similar) ski boots with Pilot bindings. Not those in which pensioners ride in the park, but those in which you can show good results on a prepared track. You purchase the appropriate mounts for them and install them on your skis. This whole structure costs a lot - anyone who rides will understand what I mean. And after a very short time of riding - several seasons - a problem occurs with them. Namely, the lightning breaks. It must be said that the design of the boots and the way the zipper is installed is radically different from ordinary boots. In boots everything is simple - pull out the broken zipper and sew another one. This is done in any shoe workshop. With Salomon it is a completely different story - the complex high-tech design of the boot is designed to be used for setting records, and not for replacing zippers.

In short, when this happened to the boots,

The first thought is that you need to go and buy new ones, it’s unlikely that anything can be done here.

Nearest sports stores

Immediately after skiing, we went to the nearest sports stores. The most surprising thing is that at the beginning of the season, both Decathlon and Sportmaster had only one model of Salomon running shoes on sale: Decathlon sold only one size, while Sportmaster had any sizes, but the boots cost about 14 thousand rubles, which It’s a lot even for the beginning of the season if you don’t plan to set any records.

Fischer and other brands are not suitable due to inappropriate fastening. Apparently, these stores haven’t even heard of it.

What's being discussed on ski forums

What to do? As usual in such cases, you need to turn to the Internet. It turned out that this topic is quite popular on the skiers’ forum and is discussed every year. It needs to be repaired, this is quite possible. Some forum participants found good specialists in their areas - in ordinary shoe repair shops.

Need to try. In the first workshop they immediately refused to take the boots, they said, come when the master is there, talk to him, we can’t accept such an order without him. But in the second, after carefully examining and assessing the scale of the disaster, the master suggested an option on how to insert a new zipper without affecting the rigid structures of the boot.

In short, either the master was afraid that I was photographing the shoe in his presence, or he was just a super-master, but after two days Salomon looked like new!

The master handled the rigid structure of the boot very delicately.

For what price? 450 rub! If anyone is interested, write and I will tell you the address of the workshop.

There is only one conclusion - always look for options, and don’t rush to do what first comes to mind!

• COMPLEX "Economy" (pre-grinding, sharpening and paraffin) 850

  Edge grinding and sharpening along the edge on a belt, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Economy+" (pre-grinding, scratch filling, sharpening and paraffin) 1650

  Grinding and sharpening of edges along the edge on a belt, repair of the sliding surface, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Standard" (pre-grinding, scratch filling, extra grinding, sharpening and paraffin) 2400

  Grinding and sharpening of edges along the edge on a belt, repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on a stone, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Nordic" (extra sand, filling scratches, extra sand and paraffin) 1800

  Repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on stone, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Comfort" (pre-grinding, filling scratches, extra grinding, sharpening, edge tuning and paraffin) 2750

  Edge grinding and sharpening on a belt, sliding surface repair, extra grinding on a stone, edge tuning, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "All inclusive" (all work included) 3990

  Grinding and sharpening of edges along the edge on a belt, repair of the sliding surface, extra-grinding on a stone, repair (delamination, deformation of the edge), tuning of the edge along the edge, complex machine processing with paraffin.

• COMPLEX "Paraffin treatment Universal" (machine) 300

  Cleaning the base with a remover, if necessary, treatment with a metal (bronze) brush, applying universal paraffin using a WaxJet machine, polishing. Treating the sliding surface of alpine skis with paraffin significantly improves their performance. At the same time, applying hot molten paraffin is, firstly, a dangerous activity, secondly, it requires special skills, and thirdly, it has its own tricks and subtleties. Our specialists will apply universal all-weather paraffin to your skis using a professional machine, and you can enjoy excellent glide in any weather.

• COMPLEX "Treatment with temperature paraffin" (iron, paraffin not included in the price) 250

  Cleaning the base with a remover, if necessary, treating with a metal (bronze) brush, applying base paraffin with an iron, scraping and polishing with brushes. HOLDING OINTMENT: Cleaning the pad with a remover, sanding, applying holding ointment with an iron “pyramid in 3 layers”.

• COMPLEX "Treatment with basic paraffin" (iron, basic paraffin included in the price) 390

  Cleaning the base with a remover, if necessary, treatment with a metal (bronze) brush, applying 1 layer of base paraffin with an iron. In order for your skis to serve you as long as possible, they must be preserved before long-term storage. Preservation takes place in several stages: cleaning the sliding surface, applying paraffin with an iron, scraping, and treating the edges with an anti-rust compound. Paraffin will prevent drying and oxidation of the sliding surface, and your skis will not lose their performance.

• COMPLEX "Treatment of skis with grip ointment" (ointment included in the price) 390

• COMPLEX "Applying a layer of paraffin for preservation" (iron, base paraffin included in the price) 350

• COMPLEX "Applying a layer of paraffin for preservation" (machine) 200

• PROMOTION "Universal paraffin treatment (machine) and preservation at the end of the season" (machine) 400

Selected services

• Installing or replacing clips, combs, etc. on g/l boots (1 piece) screw. conn. 300

• Installation or replacement of clips, combs, etc. on g/l boots (1 piece) riveted connection. 550

  If you have lost or broken a clip or comb on your boots, our service centers will select the necessary replacement for you.

• Manual sharpening of edges along the edge 850

  To reliably perform carved turns and confident, safe descents on hard trails, you must carefully monitor the condition of the edges of your skis. Manual sharpening cutting edges requires highly professional skills so as not to disturb the angle of inclination of the edges. Our specialists will accurately sharpen the edges on your alpine skis using special tools.

• Manual sharpening of edges on the base 950

  To reliably perform carved turns and confident, safe descents on hard trails, you must carefully monitor the condition of the edges of your skis. Manual sharpening of edges requires highly professional skills so as not to disturb the angle of the edges. Our specialists will accurately sharpen the edges of your skis using special tools.

• Complex delamination repair 890

  If you stored your skis incorrectly or did not use paraffin lubricants, the core could dry out and begin to peel off. In this case, you can extend the service life of the equipment by contacting a professional service center.

• Complex edge repair (deformation) 1590

  In most cases, a knocked out, torn, or partially lost edge of alpine skis can be repaired. Our service specialists will carry out all the necessary work to restore the edge geometry and further trouble-free operation of your equipment.

• Extra polishing on stone 800

  Applying a structure (stein sanding) can significantly improve the sliding properties of alpine skis. Machine grinding is the most difficult, but at the same time the most The best way preparation of the sliding surface. Alpine skis prepared on a professional machine by a qualified specialist have improved performance.

• Grinding and sharpening of edges along the base on a belt 600

  The base is polished on a professional Wintersteiger machine. A perfectly smooth sliding surface without scratches or lint is the key to excellent ski performance. The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the sliding surface of alpine skis.

• Shortening the poles 300

  When skiing, poles perform very important functions and must be suitable for your height. If you made the wrong choice of poles in the store and find that riding with them is inconvenient, do not rush to buy new ones. In our service centers you can shorten ski poles according to your height.

• Sliding surface repair 800

  If during operation the sliding surface of alpine skis becomes damaged, this seriously impairs their performance. Professional and timely repair will help solve the problem and extend the life of your equipment.

• Repair of ski and snowboard decor 450

  In our services you can restore appearance of your equipment, removing scratches and burrs from front side your skis.

• Sharpening the edge along the edge on the tape 250

  The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the sliding surface of alpine skis.

• Applying the finishing structure to the stone 750

  The professional equipment of our services allows us to apply a given structure with precise parameters to the sliding surface of alpine skis. Applying the structure significantly improves the performance of alpine skis and makes their surface more susceptible to paraffin ointments.

• Tuning edging according to the base 450

• Edge tuning 350

  In our services you can sharpen edges using professional equipment. The TRIM machine guarantees excellent quality of edge grinding both from the side surface and from the sliding surface of alpine skis. Edges are sharpened in two directions, providing the ability to apply any number of sharpening angles, both from the side surface and from the side of the sliding surface simultaneously.

• Finishing scraping and brushing (re-preservation) 250

  Rotary brushes are used to clean the sliding surface from dirt and old paraffin, as well as to apply a microstructure to skis and polish the sliding surface. Our specialists will qualitatively and professionally prepare your skis for the new season. Our qualified specialists service centers They will hand-scrape your skis. After finishing sanding, the sliding surface of the skis is perfectly smooth and ready for use.

• Grinding/scraping rough (manual) 450

  Modern materials used for the sliding surfaces of alpine skis provide excellent glide. However, such material is quite susceptible to mechanical damage and requires regular maintenance, which will extend the life of your winter equipment and improve its performance. Sanding is the process of removing the top layer of a sliding surface with already formed pile using a scraper. In our services, qualified specialists will scrape your skis.

• Applying the structure manually using Swix knurling 300

Fastenings

• Installing bindings on cross-country skis and roller skis 350

  From correct installation fastenings largely depends further work skis The mount must be installed at the center of gravity for the optimal ratio of rigidity and elasticity of the ski, the best balancing and controllability of the ski. To install the mount, it is advisable to use special tool, which ensures convenient and reliable operation. So accurate and important work It’s better to entrust it to the specialists of our service centers. Many leading ski manufacturers strongly recommend that bindings be installed only in specialized workshops.

• Installing bindings on alpine skis with drilling using a template 1000

• Installing bindings on skis and snowboards without drilling 450

  Proper operation of the fastenings is the basis of your safety. The bindings must ensure reliable connection between the boot and the ski within permissible loads on the leg and release it when the set threshold is exceeded. Our specialists will install and adjust the bindings on your skis to make skiing enjoyable and safe.

• Dismantling fasteners 180

  If you decide to change your boots and bindings, then in our service centers they will dismantle the old bindings and offer preventive treatment of the remaining holes with special compounds that prevent moisture from entering the ski cavity and rotting the core.

• Individual setting of trigger force 120

  Incorrect adjustment of the fastening force can lead to the most unpleasant consequences. If you adjust it too hard, you may fall and your skis will remain on your feet, increasing the risk of serious injury. On the contrary, with a weak setting, the fastenings will come unfastened at the most inopportune moment. Our services will provide you with an individual setting for the fastening force depending on your weight and level of training.

• Processing old holes during reinstallation 240

  The holes remaining from the old fasteners must be processed special composition, which will ensure the tightness of the ski. If water gets into the ski cavity through the hole, the core will begin to rot.

• Restoration of torn sections of ski and snowboard bindings (1 element) 450

  If during active use you damage a part of the fastener, then our service specialists will restore the structure of the fastenings by replacing or repairing the damaged elements.

• Installing bindings on alpine skis with drilling without a template 1590

  Proper operation of the fastenings is the basis of your safety. The bindings must ensure a reliable connection between the boot and the ski within the permissible load on the leg and release it when the established threshold is exceeded. Our specialists will install and adjust the bindings on your skis to make skiing enjoyable and safe.

Safety and quality of skiing depends on the equipment. Active use and complex tricks lead to damage. Repairing ski boots is an expensive procedure. You can fix some problems yourself.

Losing inventory early or mid-season is frustrating. Rivets and fastenings may break, and the sole may also come off. The question arises, how to repair ski boots yourself. Experienced skiers know how to fix minor problems. Beginners should familiarize themselves with the basic tips, recommendations, and nuances.

Replacing a zipper

Lightning fails frequently. Difficulties arise due to the special design of shoes, stretchy materials, and plastic parts. The best option there will be a call to a professional. Ordinary workshops rarely undertake such work. In some cases, they repair the zipper on a ski boot with their own hands.

Sewing the torn part is a simple option. You will need a strong thread, a non-sharp needle, and scissors. The plastic spring is sewn to tissue based. It is difficult to fasten at first, as the zipper pulley is tight. This method will help until the thread wears off. The measure is temporary. It's better to find a professional and replace the entire zipper.

Boot restoration

Cracks in plastic inner boots are common. Appear from impacts, wear, frost, falls. In most cases it is required complete replacement element. You can make repairs yourself when the cracks are small.

You will need to make stainless steel patches. The holes are turned carefully so that the screw fits in tightly and with force. You should not install one large fortification. The boot has a curved shape. To avoid displacement, install two strips of steel about 2 cm thick. This option is suitable for the outer part.

Attention! Repairing parts on your own can weaken the structure, reduce reliability and safety level. Broken elements need to be replaced.

The folding tongue of the boot has burst - just pull the edges together with a thick thread and put a piece on durable fabric or skin. You need to use glue that remains flexible after drying.

Damaged seams

With prolonged use, the threads wear out, the seams tear, and come off. Often breakage occurs at bends. You can repair it yourself. You will need a thick thread, a needle, and scissors. The material of the ski equipment is dense. It is better to use protection for pushing the needle (thimble). Pull the edges until they stop. Having removed the torn old threads, you can use the existing holes. Fasten the end of the thread well. Will last until the next abrasion.

Restoring the clasp

Wear, sudden tugging, and careless use lead to damage to the fastener. If the fastener is made of fabric Velcro, then you can fix it yourself. You will need a piece of thick fabric, a thick strong thread, and scissors. The torn part is connected with a thread. The top and bottom are fixed with fabric and stitched. A broken ring can be replaced with wire. Replace with an original part as soon as possible.

If the sole comes off

Losing the sole of a shoe is a breakdown that is difficult to fix. It is impossible to restore the original appearance with your own hands. A temporary measure is to glue it and fasten it with screws. Hats (preferably flat ones) should be located on the inside of the boot. The nose is screwed on separately - it has a different location, so a separate screw is required.

What is needed for repairs

Equipment and materials depend on the nature of the breakdown. For seams and fabric tears, you will need a thick thread, needle, thick fabric or leather. It is better to take needles with a blunt end - there is less risk of sticking into a finger. Sometimes glue is used - after hardening, the composition must remain elastic, otherwise tears will appear again.

For plastic elements - boot, internal, external parts, fasteners - you will need stainless steel plates, flat head screws, screwdrivers. Thin plastic is pierced with a hot knitting needle slowly and carefully. Areas with thickening are drilled.

Sequencing

Before repairing, boots should be washed and dried. The shoes are disassembled and the damaged element is removed. Before processing, plastic parts are disinfected (alcohol, acetone).

Attention! Best algorithm actions in case of breakdowns - contact a professional technician, complete replacement of faulty elements.

For patches, strengthening the base, joining cracks, take only stainless steel(exposure to snow, ice - rust appears). In case of fabric ruptures, protruding threads are removed and roughness is removed.

An experienced skier can immediately determine the degree of damage and the possibility of repair. Most have their own secrets for repairing equipment. Correcting the situation with your own hands requires dexterity, certain skills, and special equipment.

You can reduce wear and tear on your ski boots with proper care. Can not use detergents with solvents. Boots must be dried after each trip. Fasteners should be checked, not pulled, fastened smoothly. Watch your leg position. It should be comfortable and the girth should be tight. After two to three years, a situation may arise when the foot is not placed in a working position. This may indicate expired services.

Equipment should be put away for summer storage in places without direct exposure to the sun, well ventilated. Shoes are washed, removable fabric parts are washed. Dry away from heating devices. For washing, do not use synthetic aggressive compounds - soap solution, environmentally friendly products.

Important! Caring for ski boots will extend their service life, but will not protect against cracks, chips, and tears. The equipment is selected according to the riding style. Anatomical features and degree of comfort are taken into account. For minimal changes, parts are checked for changes.

Correct service professional master, replacing parts is a guarantee of safety. Malfunctions reduce the quality of shoes and weaken fasteners. You can repair it yourself, but only if there is no other option.

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