Electric planer Baikal. Electric plane "Baikal" - what models are there, comparison and reviews

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Characteristics of the Baikal E-315AK plane Power consumption: 1000 W Planing width: 102 mm Rated voltage: 220V/50Hz Planing depth: 0-2.5 mm Quarter cutting depth: 0-20 mm Rotation speed: 11000 rpm Soft start: Yes Electronic engine protection: Yes Operating mode: S1 continuous Dimensions (LxWxH): 305x181x166 mm Weight: 3.6 kg Country of origin: Russia, Izhevsk Warranty: 2 years Features of the Baikal E-314AK planer Smooth adjustment of planing depth Balanced center of gravity Double-sided knives made of high speed steel The electronic unit stabilization of the cutter rotation speed when the load changes and protects the engine from overloads Effective chip emission system (possibility of using the E-392PP dust collector) Locking against accidental start-up Smooth start of the electric motor Powerful motor makes it easy to plan hard wood High rotation speed of the cutter ensures high-quality processing surfaces Electronic balancing of the blade shaft during its manufacturing process ensures minimal vibration on the plane handles.

Any House master always keeps the tool in working order. This especially applies to manual or electric planer knives. Everyone needs to learn how to sharpen plane knives correctly and accurately. What devices and machines exist for sharpening tools, and how can you learn to use them?

If the plane blades are dull

The performance of a planer largely depends on the sharpening of the knives. The knife or cutter of a plane is a metal blade located at a certain angle to the processing surface.

The working position of the cutter is the extended and adjustable part of the knife. The knife protrudes through a slot through which waste chips exit. The plane knives are clamped using simple-shaped clamps. The balanced system of arrangement of the main elements of the plane creates a fairly efficient unit until the master feels that it is time to sharpen the knives for the plane. How to determine whether a plane knife is dull or not?

A dull plane knife does not require complex diagnostics. It is enough to examine the cutting edge (chamfer) in the light. By turning the chamfer around the edge, you can find a shiny thread-like strip, which will signal that the edge has become dull. This is easy to explain: the sharpening angle of the plane knife is 30 degrees. Professional carpenters sharpen the bevel without measuring the angle, relying on their own intuition and achieving the required ratio between the width and thickness of the knife.

When sharpening knives, it is necessary to maintain the balancing and geometry of the blades. If you cannot safely sharpen knives yourself manually, tools and a device for sharpening planer knives will come to the rescue.

The video will help you learn more about plane knives.

Learning to sharpen planer knives is easy. It is enough to study the design of devices, devices and sharpening machines, and also be able to securely fasten the blade of knives.

Sharpening accessories

The simplest and therefore accessible manual device for sharpening knives, you can call it a wooden block, in the upper part of which a plane knife is attached.

This device has two points of contact: at one point the sharpened blade rests on the abrasive, and at the second point on the corner of the bar. The primitive design and manual movement of the device, however, allow for good sharpening of plane knives. It should be taken into account that the sharpening angle geometrically depends on the height of the wooden block above the abrasive surface, as well as the distance to the attachment point.
When sharpening, the blade of a metal knife should be straight.

There are also the following tools used for sharpening:
grinding wheel
sharpening clamp
barrel roller
honing stone
sharpeners with front and side clamping.
Grinding wheel is an abrasive wheel with a diameter of up to 60 mm with a wheel thickness of up to 18 mm and a hexagonal shank. For ease of sharpening, the wheel is equipped with a conical groove located around the circumference. The grinding wheel is made of silicon carbide. For sharpening, an electric drill is used as a driving element.

Sharpening clamp Designed for securely clamping planer knives on the sharpening stop. The clamp has 3 working positions, which allow you to install the rod, aligning it at the required working sharpening angle. The sharpening angle can vary from 30 to 90 degrees. The clamp is attached to screws located on plastic gaskets. The clamp material is anodized aluminum.

Barrel roller designed to eliminate sharpening defects on the workpiece being sharpened. The roller has a characteristic shape that allows you to eliminate “tracks” formed after sharpening with a sharpener in 3 passes. This maintains a 90 degree angle between the sides of the knife and the cutting edge.

Honing stone Designed to function as a substrate for abrasive paste. Convenient geometric dimensions and manufacturing material – low-carbon stabilized steel – ensure flatness over the entire sharpening surface of up to 0.127 mm. Unlike water stones, the whetstone does not need to wipe the surface when sharpening. It is possible to glue the bar to a large surface area, which provides best comfort at work.

Veritas Sharpening System with front and side clamps, it is designed for sharpening the knives of planes and jointers, with the exception of knife blades from Japanese manufacturers. The sharpener is a blade that can be clamped together with the knife blade from the front or the side. The sharpener is equipped with a roller that prevents any damage to the sharpening stone. Sharpening of knife blades is carried out using a template that sets the angle with the possibility of manual adjustment.

It should be noted that when working with sharpening devices, it is necessary to pay attention to the reliable fastening of knife blades.
This video will help you learn how to sharpen plane knives using tools.

But of particular interest when sharpening knives is working on a sharpening machine. Learn to work for sharpening machine You can do it yourself by reading the instructions.

Tormek sharpening machine

The Tormek is a low speed grinding machine with a powerful motor and significant torque. The machine allows sharpening work to be carried out continuously over a long period of time. High frequency sharpening provides low speed (up to 90 rps) and water cooling cutting edge sharpened tool. The design and operating principle of the machine for sharpening knives for planes is quite simple. The tool to be sharpened is clamped into the holder.

The holder with the attached tool is secured to a universal support. Then the sharpening machine is turned on. Sharpening of knives or other tools occurs at low speeds using a sharpening wheel immersed in water. The sharpening process is visible, at any time it is possible to adjust and control the clamping force, the width of the sharpening chamfer and the rotation speed of the grinding wheel. When sharpening a tool, burnout of the tool is completely eliminated. The use of various sharpening stones allows you to sharpen any metal.

You can learn how to operate a sharpening machine in a few sessions. Therefore, sharpening knives with your own hands will not be difficult. For greater confidence in the work and practice of sharpening plane knives, you can watch the video.

Let us remind you that sharpening work always requires attention and compliance with safety regulations.

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Perhaps, the PLANE still remains one of the most popular TOOLS of the woodworker - both the master and the amateur. This TOOL is distinguished by an enviable variety of models. Some of them are no longer in use today.

At the end of the 19th century, master carpenters identified four types of planes based on their initial origin: English, German, French and American. In Russia the most widespread German type PLANE (PLANE), not much different from English and French. The word PLANE itself, as well as the names of all TOOLS of this kind (PLANER, ZENZUBEL, FALZGEBEL, etc.) are of German origin.

German and French PLANES did not differ in any qualities from the samples common in Russia. The English PLANE had a wider and shorter block and rounded sides to reduce weight and make it easier to grip by hand. The bottom slot of the block was moved forward and beveled, which made the work much easier.

The blocks of American planes were cast from cast iron. The “face” of the block was carefully polished. Being metal, it could not warp, and the correctness of the PRIGS was ensured. The main advantage of the TOOL was its very practical and convenient way fastening the knife with screws and springs, without wedges (which did not require hammering).
But American PLANES also turned out to be not without sin - cast iron PLANES were heavy to move, the friction of cast iron on wood was greater than that of wood on wood. To get rid of this drawback, the friction surface and weight were reduced. To do this, cast iron blocks were replaced with wooden ones, leaving only small metal attachments with a device for attaching the knife.

The main task of the PLANE is wood processing: planing, leveling surfaces, giving a certain form or size by removing a thin layer of wood (SHAVINGS) with special knives, sometimes called CUTS or pieces of iron, as in the old days.

KNIVES are made of tool steel, hardened and secured in a wooden or metal case. The working part of the knife is called the BLADE. This is simply the sharpened lower part of the knife. But the BLADE can also be made of high-quality steel, the plate of which is welded into in this case to the body of the knife.

All TOOLS for planing are called PLANES. These include PLANES, JOINTERS, CYCLES, etc. The most common PLANE is with wooden block, in which the KNIFE (CUTTER) is secured using a WEDGE. It is much more convenient to use a PLANE if it is equipped with a wooden HORN in the front part. The section of the block that is in contact with the surface being treated is called the OUTSOLE. The front part of the block is called the FRONT, and the rear is called the REAR. The last itself is made of hard and dry wood, often white beech or maple.

The hole in which the KNIFE is installed is called the TAP, and the slot through which the TAP goes to the SOLE is called the SPAN. Through the SPAN, the working part of the blade with its cutting edge extends beyond the SOLE. The SPAN width ranges from 5 to 9 mm depending on the purpose of the PLANE. IN PLANES for rough planing, the blade protrudes beyond the SOLE by 1-3 mm. PLANE KNIFE for finishing planing and cleaning protrudes by 0.1-0.3 mm. The chips are the same thickness.

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Planer knives - which ones can be sharpened?

The operation of a particular plane primarily depends on its type. There are two main varieties:

hand planes - made of plastic, metal or wood and are ubiquitous;
electric planers - this type is produced with a built-in motor to increase the speed and efficiency of the process;

An electric planer may have one or two knives, or cutters. They are usually made of tool steel or tungsten carbide. In the latter case, the cutters cannot be reused and must be replaced. They also vary in shape to perform different functions.

How to determine if a plane needs sharpening

You can easily determine the condition of the cutter by examining the edge (chamfer) of the element. If a thin shiny strip is visible on it, then the blade needs to be sharpened.

Some planes have double-sided knives - when they become dull, it is enough to turn the product over and work with the less worn side.

How to sharpen a plane correctly

In order to properly sharpen a cutter, the following tools are needed:

emery with grinding wheels;
fine-grained block;
grinding stone or leather belt with polishing paste;

In case of severe damage, it is most reliable to rely on a large circle. During processing, the cutter bends a little, and such a circle will prevent this. However, chamfer alignment cannot be avoided even in this case.

Sandpaper with two wheels works well - one fine-grained and the other coarse-grained. They allow you to perform the most precise editing of knives.

Incorrectly sharpened knives will not bring the required quality to the material being processed.

For high-quality sharpening of the material, it is critical to observe correct angle blade applications. In many cases, it varies from 25 to 45 degrees, but for each knife the figure is individual and depends on the hardness of the steel. The angle should be matched to a template that you can make yourself.

It is not recommended to press the blade too hard, otherwise emery wheel will wear off the metal in thick layers - this can ultimately lead to unusability of the material. The steel heats up from friction against the surface of the circle, so it is advisable to periodically lower it into cold water. This way you avoid possible distortion of the knife blade during heating.

After processing with a grinding wheel, the blade must be adjusted using a fine-grained stone. At the end of the procedure, the material is straightened in a grinding stone, or, in its absence, using a leather belt with polishing paste.

The entire operation described is very labor-intensive and time-consuming. However, you need to sharpen your knives in a timely manner - best at the first hint of a decrease in the quality of the plane. If you ignore this point, the knives may eventually become unsuitable for further use - you will have to replace them.

If you don't have sandpaper, you can assemble a simple manual tool for sharpening the cutter. To do this you will need:

bar;
abrasive.

Secure the knife to the top of the block and place the blade on the surface of the abrasive. The angle of inclination of the knife will be geometrically determined by the height of the block. Move the block without putting too much pressure on the abrasive, and to make it easier to move, place it on the glass.

If you do not have experience sharpening a plane with your own hands, then it is better to contact a specialist. In addition, you may get injured.

Checking Blade Adjustment

After sharpening the device, it is necessary to adjust it correctly. To do this, after installing the cutter, you need to inspect the plane and evaluate the distance by which the blade extends beyond the surface.

The optimal case is when the element protrudes by 0.5 mm, and for rougher processing - by 1 mm.

Too much clearance will result in large chips and you will not be able to achieve the desired result. On the contrary, if the protrusion is insignificant, then there will be very few chips and processing of the wood will take a lot of time.

Compared to other carpentry tools, for example, a shekhrebel, which is used for primary carving, a plane is designed for finer processing of wood, and therefore the shavings when working with it should be of small thickness.

How to evaluate the quality of sharpening

Upon completion of the process, it is advisable to immediately check the success of the actions performed. The quality of blade sharpening can be judged by the shavings. Run the plane along the entire workpiece. If in the end the surface of the product is smooth and the chips are long, it means that you managed to sharpen the planer knives properly.

www.interskol.ru

The electric plane serves an indispensable tool When building and renovating a house, as with any power tool, there are consumables in its design. The consumables of an electric planer are knives, with which the wood is processed. As a rule, knives are double-sided, in a set of 2 pieces. Remember: if the plane doesn’t remove shavings well and your knives are dull, then it’s time to change them. But in this case it is worth mentioning that some of them simply need to be sharpened. To do this, you need to know how to position the knives of the electric planer after sharpening, and how to carry out the procedure for sharpening the knives.

Electric planer knives
Changing electric planer knives
Editing on the touchstone
Sharpening electric planer knives
Assembling electric planer knives

Electric planer knives

The knives are mounted on a rotating drum of an electric planer and are designed to remove the top layer of material during the planing procedure wooden products. If this equipment has 1 cutting edge or 2. The latter blades are called rotary blades because their position can easily be changed if one side becomes dull. Electric planer knives are made of tool steel or tungsten carbide. The first of them can be sharpened again.

Blades are shaped like: straight - used for cutting quarters and planing narrow parts; rounded - intended for processing wide areas, because they make transitions between planing lines more accurate; wavy - shaped knives for electric planers are suitable for simulating “aged” surfaces.

Before using the electric planer, it is recommended to check each time whether the knives are installed correctly. Their cutting edge should barely protrude outwards and should be parallel to the sole of the plane. To determine how the knife is adjusted, lift the tool to eye level with the sole up.

The cutting edge of the knife should protrude on average 0.5 millimeters above the sole. For Scherhebel, which is intended for initial rough planing, the cutting edge must be released by at least 1 millimeter. Adjusting the position of the knife is very simple. Turn the small and large adjusting screws, which are located behind the platform for the electric planer knife, sequentially left and right until the cutting edge is in the desired position.

After this, install the knife into the electric planer and fix the position using the centering lever and screw on the top plate. A new electric planer, as a rule, already has the position of the knife adjusted. However, after prolonged use, the setting will become lost. Therefore, if you are using a plane after a long break, you need to first check that everything is fine. Do not immediately start working on parts with a newly adjusted electric plane without testing it on an unnecessary board.

Classification of knives for electric planers

Also, knives for electric planers are divided by size. If you have an imported plane, for example, from Black & Dekker or Skil, then there are traditional 82 mm knives, they are popularly called “plates”. Among inexpensive and high-quality knives, we can recommend knives from the manufacturer “Zubr” made of carbon steel. These knives are suitable for most foreign planes, even for professional electric tools from Bosch and Makita.

Accurate dimensions: length 82 millimeters, width 5.5 millimeters and thickness 1.2 millimeters. You can find knives from various manufacturers on sale, and the price in this case depends primarily on the company. If you buy Boshevsky ones, the cost will be 2 times higher than simple household ones - Zubr, Stayer, Fit, Matrix. Of course, the difference in quality will be very noticeable.

There are knives that are specifically designed for certain models of electric planes. For the popular planes Interskol and Baikal, special knives are intended; they are wider than the “plates” and thicker. They are stronger, and when you hit a twig or nail when working with an electric planer, the knife will not break, and the notch can be easily removed with sandpaper.

The width of these knives is always approximately 1 centimeter, they differ significantly from others. These knives for electric planers come in different lengths: 82 and 102 millimeters, under different models Baikal and Interskol. If such knives become dull, you can always sharpen them yourself. Unlike thin ones, they can be sharpened using sandpaper if you have sufficient sharpening skills and the ability to maintain a flat surface.

Well, the third type of knives for electric planes is wide and thick, with holes for fastening. They are very specific and are suitable exclusively for certain models, for example, for planes from the manufacturer Rebir, which have a power of 2000 Watts. These knives are different large thickness and power, width reaches 110 millimeters.

Changing electric planer knives

Electric planer knives are presented with highest demands. The fact that they are dull can be easily determined by eye. To do this, hold the chamfer of the piece of iron up to the light and turn it around the cutting edge. The cutting edge is dull if a shiny thread-shaped strip appears at the end of the chamfer in a certain position. The sharpening angle of the electric plane knife should be close to 30 degrees.

Today there are knives for electric planers using a rotary cutter. If one of these knife blades becomes dull, it is customary to turn the knife over for the first time, and the next time replace it with a new sharp knife.

Electric planer knives are installed in a knife holder, which is placed in a conical transverse groove and clamped with three nuts. The height of the knives is adjusted with two screws located at the edges. To remove the knife from the knife holder, you should loosen the nuts and tighten the screws to the end of the screws, which will help pull the knife holder out of the groove.

After this, you need to select a drift that suits the thickness of the knife, and use it to knock the knife out of the knife holder in the transverse direction. Next, turn the knife over or take a new one if the old one is unusable, and carefully push it into place, placing it on the side. Make sure that the knife enters the knife holder strictly parallel to it.

Having placed new knives on the electric planer, you should adjust them in height with screws and tighten them with nuts. In this case, it is recommended to set the same gap for both knives, otherwise the shaft will become unbalanced.

Editing on the touchstone

When planing, achieve good quality treated surface is only possible when used in a planer sharp knife. If the cutting edge is slightly dull and has no jagged edges, it can be sharpened by straightening. It is recommended to grind dull or jagged knives using a grinding wheel.

When grinding a knife on a grinding wheel, it is placed loosely on a flat supporting surface or clamped into a slide. When grinding, the iron must be moved along the grinding disc from side to side. Due to friction, the parts heat up. Therefore, it is necessary to apply moderate pressure when processing the product so that the cutting edge does not lose its hardness and does not turn blue.

The electric planer knife must be straightened after grinding. Only thanks to this manipulation will he receive the desired sharpness. To manually adjust the knives of an electric planer, artificial or natural bars called whetstones are used. The piece of iron can be mechanically straightened on a finishing disk.

On Belgian whetstones, straightening can only be done with the addition of water. On Arkansas bars, a mixture of oil and kerosene is used for straightening. Artificial whetstones come in different levels of grinding. Many have a coarse and fine grain side.
The coarse-grained side is intended for preliminary straightening, and the fine-grained side is needed for fine straightening. To straighten knives on artificial whetstones, you can use a mixture of oils or water. Under no circumstances should you edit on a dry block, because the blade will lose its hardening (release) and become dull. The whetstone needs to be washed from time to time so that the whetstone does not become salty.

When straightening, the chamfer is firmly pressed against the block and moved crosswise until it becomes as shiny as a mirror and all the burrs disappear. The front side of the piece of iron is driven only down and up along the whetstone, and the procedure for straightening it takes less time.
The lapping disc is made from artificial material, which contains a fine abrasive agent. With the help of such discs you can straighten knives for electric planers in machine mode.

Sharpening electric planer knives

Before the procedure for replacing electric planer knives, you first need to determine the need for it. This is easy to find out: if the electric planer passes through the workpiece worse than before, then you need to start re-sharpening its knives. In addition, remember that dull knives can increase the risk of the device being thrown when it hits hard areas of wood, for example, knots.

The first step in sharpening an electric plane knife is to place an abrasive stone in water for a few minutes. The stone should absorb as much moisture as possible. This helps to avoid excessive dust formation and improves the quality of sharpening of the electric planer. When sharpening knives, it is important to ensure that they touch the abrasive stone at the same angle at all times.

The second stage is fixing the knives in a special block. In order to properly sharpen a knife for an electric planer, it is customary to use a special device, which will help to avoid violations of the geometry or balancing of the knives. Loosen the two nuts that secure the block clamping plate and insert the knives as far as they will go into the electric planer knife sharpener. Then tighten the locking nuts again. Make sure that the cutting edges of the knives are located in the same plane.

The third step is the sharpening process itself. Sharpening knives for an electric planer must be done using a special technology. The steel on re-sharpened knives is of such high quality that it allows you to re-sharpen the knives well and make them razor-sharp. However, make sure that the balancing of the knives is not disturbed. Since two knives are used in the electric planer, the issue of balancing is strict.

The straightness of the blade during sharpening is checked using any straight surface. Along the entire length of the blade, the width of the chamfer should be exactly the same. Knives are usually sharpened on a hand sharpener. It is recommended to sharpen for as long as possible until the finest burrs appear on the blade, which are difficult to distinguish by eye. Make sure that the chamfer is smooth, without concavities or convexities. Burrs must be removed. To do this, when sharpening electric planer knives, the knife is placed reverse side flat on the block and pass over it several times.

Assembling electric planer knives

After sharpening the knife, first connect it to the guard. It should protrude 3 millimeters beyond the edge of the lining. Completely assemble the tool, adjust the correct position of the knife so that its edge protrudes beyond the edge of the platform, as expected, by 0.5 millimeters. Connect the knife and the cover with one screw. Loosen the screw, turn the knife 90 degrees and separate the parts.

First, attach the knife to the block with a chamfer and move it in this position back and forth at an acute angle of 30 degrees. When burrs appear on the cutting edge, turn the knife over, place it flat on the block and move it back and forth to remove the burrs. The edge of the knife should protrude 3 millimeters beyond the edge of the pad. The screw that holds the cover and the knife together must be tightened thoroughly so that even after prolonged use both parts fit tightly together.

After sharpening the electric planer knives, you should immediately test the blade by removing a few shavings. It has been proven in practice that the blade of a tool that is put into use immediately after sharpening becomes less dull. To avoid frequent sharpening of knives on a sharpener, carefully monitor the condition of the iron while working, and when the first signs of dullness (shiny stripes) appear, immediately straighten the electric plane on the sharpening stone.

Now you know why it is so important to constantly monitor the position of the knives on the electric planer, adjust them in time, remove and install new pieces of iron. In addition, you always have the opportunity to sharpen the electric planer knives on a special device and put them back on.

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Introduction to the cutting attachment

Electric planer knives plan the top layer of wood. The cutting element of the tool is consumables. The characteristics of the purchased set of knives will determine the further quality of processing and the safety of the master during operation of the power tool. The better the steel from which the knife is made, the longer it will retain its sharpness.

About work

During the operation of planer knives, a significant load is placed on the blade. The tool works as follows: during its reciprocating movement, the knife penetrates the tree to a certain depth. Due to the absence of such a property as plasticity in wood, a plane knife chips upper layer, resulting in the formation of chips. The place for equipping the cutting elements was a special drum on which the knives rotate. The power tool is equipped with two knives. The last cutting element is rotary. Once one of its sides becomes blunt, it can be easily changed. For their manufacture, tungsten carbide and tool steel are used. In the latter case, according to the craftsmen, it is possible to re-sharpen the knives of the electric planer.

About classification by shape

Knives for an electric planer can be:

Straight. They are used to plan small parts.
Wavy. Using such knives, craftsmen imitate “aged” wood.
Rounded. The products are used in cases where it is necessary to make a neat transition between planing lines. Experienced craftsmen recommend using rounded knives when working with wide surfaces.

About sizes

Cutting elements for imported electrical appliances are called “plates” among consumers. Their standard size is 82 mm. Knives for electric planers are mainly made of high-quality carbon steel. These products, 5.5 mm wide and 1.2 mm thick, are universal because they are suitable for most imported tools. According to consumer reviews, if you choose from inexpensive and at the same time durable cutting attachments, it is better to opt for the Zubr brand. They can be installed on Bosch, Makita, Shkil, Black&Desser electric planers. There are also special knives on the market for those who love to work with wood. Such products, in contrast to standard “plates,” are characterized by increased thickness and width, due to which they are much stronger and easier to sharpen. Length special knives varies from 82 to 102 mm. Cutting equipment designed for a specific model mainly contains a special mounting hole. Such knives are installed on high-power tools. Using an electric planer, stronger wood is processed.

About disposable knives

In addition, knives are disposable and reusable. In the first case, the cutting element cannot be sharpened. Such products are simply replaced. Mostly they are double-sided. When one side becomes dull, the craftsmen simply turn them over and continue working until the other side becomes dull. If the knife has lost its former sharpness, then the movement of the plane along wooden surface it will become difficult. In addition, after passing with a dull knife, it will not be smooth enough. This indicates that it is time to discard the cutting element.

About sharpening

High-quality and safe editing of knives at home will only be possible with a special device. With its help, the master will be able to select the desired sharpening angle. According to some owners, Bosch electric planes, as well as Makita and Shkil, are equipped with such a device. If it is missing, the owner of the instrument will have to purchase it separately.

You will also need a fine-grained abrasive stone to sharpen knives. Before work, experienced craftsmen recommend immersing it in water for a couple of minutes. To begin with, the knife must be securely secured in the above-mentioned device. The cutting elements can be clamped in pairs or sharpened individually. If the knives are paired, then it is very important to ensure that their ends do not get lost during the sharpening process. To do this, the equipment with beveled edges is placed in one plane. If each knife is sharpened separately from each other, then the bevel should be parallel to the stone.

The point of sharpening is to remove various burrs and irregularities from the surface of the blade. For this cutting element you need to move along the surface of the abrasive stone until the burrs completely disappear. First, you need to determine the degree of dullness by looking at the cutting edge. If the chamfer has a shiny stripe, then the cutting equipment needs to be straightened. Then the angle is set to 30 degrees. The knife should be polished in a reciprocating and circular motion. Since the knives of electric planes operate at very high speeds, it is important to prevent them from overheating. To do this, while grinding, the knives must be periodically dipped in a container of water. Otherwise, the hot steel will quickly sink and lose its original hardness.

It happens that the blade is very dull and manual editing becomes tiring. In this case, it is advisable to replace the stone with an electric one. sharpening machine. Judging by numerous consumer reviews, the longer the knife, the easier it is to sharpen.

About installation in the tool

Before you start operating electrical equipment, either with completely new or self-sharpened “plates,” it is important to make sure that they are securely fastened. After replacing the knives of the electric planer, the cutting equipment with its edge should be located parallel to the sole of the tool. You can determine the adjustment of the “plate” by turning the plane over with the sole up.

It is desirable that the edge protrudes outward by no more than 0.5 mm. It is possible to change the position of the knife thanks to special small and large adjusting screws, which are located behind the tool platform. Adjustment of the cutting edge is carried out by sequentially turning these screws left and right.

Finally

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Alexander NN 16-01-2011 12:48

I’ll share my modest experience on this issue, but I’ll immediately make a reservation that I’m not a super-duper redwood carpenter. At first I had a BLACK-DECKER electric plane, which I bought on occasion in Sweden, there was a discount on it there, the knives were 82, EURO standard (so to speak), I didn’t sharpen them at all, but only changed them, they seemed to be sharpened normally in the package, this plane worked I have a 2 year old one, the anchor burned out. I disassembled this plane, saw that the BLACK-DECKER company was a rare piece of shit, it was better to buy it from China, there was no rear bearing in the motor at all, the plane began to drive a wave across the board before the end, there was play in the blade shaft bearings, in general there was nothing to repair, especially that the price of an anchor in a Moscow service center, without work, was 1650 RUR, they made me sad and worked on the eternal repair of my dacha for 0.5 years like a Chukchi with his old iron with a hand plane, I bought again with knives 82 in LEROY-MERLIN INTERSKOL R-82, fortunately the service center is not far from Leningrad, on the construction market I bought spare knives for it, which are not EURO, but like IZHEVSK, wider than EURO, and now looking at these worn knives, I saw that they were sharpened lousy from the factory, the burrs were not removed, I decided to sharpen them, they were easily sharpened on pocket ceramics, such a triangle, there is also a groove there for sharpening fishing hooks, sharpened by applying the entire wide beveled one-sided plane, then turned it over onto the “working” wide plane, removing the burr, inserted the knives sharpened in this way into the plane shaft and adjusted it to 0 depth using a level, applied the level to the edge of the plane and turned the shaft with the knife by hand , so that the knife slightly catches the level and moves it forward by about 0.5 cm, then moves the level to the other side of the knife, if the level moves further, adjust the screws, achieving uniformity, in the INTERSKOLOVSKY planer it is very good mechanism adjustments, I liked it. After such sharpening, or rather sharpening the knives, the result always worked, the plane moved easily and cleanly. The work he had was not easy, he had to fence the dacha wooden fence 15 acres of land, I bought logs for these purposes, and a fence board, 6 cubes, a whole URAL with a top, at a cheap price, but very shaggy from the sawmill, and for a year my wife and I built a fence, each board on 4 sides was planed with a plane , this cost the plane three or four drive belts, and again the burnt anchor, right there, fortunately, the plane was under warranty in Leningrad, two weeks later they returned it, saying that they had changed the anchor, and all the bearings to imported ones, everything was happy to continue continue to drive the boards, at the end of the fence epic, the front adjusting shoe and the plastic eccentric were destroyed by an unsuccessful knot, it doesn’t matter again on the Leningrad 30r eccentric, and the 120r shoe, and the plane is like new. So INTERSKOL rules, and Izhevsk knives too, I sharpened them a lot, I was always pleased with the result, naturally, if a nail or a fragment of a screw was lost in the board, then the knife should be the other side or replaced with a new one, sharpening is more expensive for yourself. In my non-professional opinion, an electric planer is not a finishing carpentry tool; for this purpose, there are all sorts of jointers - manual ones, where the knives are adjusted using expensive devices to super sharpness and at the same time to super evenness, there are no limits to perfection, and an Izhevsk knife can be easily sharpened by hand on any medium-sized smooth stone from a hardware store for 40-100 rubles.

Good day, dear visitors of the Review site. about!

I hope my review will come in handy for those who are starting home renovations or want to make changes to the decor, and at the same time try themselves as a carpenter.

We will talk about the electric planer “Baikal” E-313.

I got this plane easily: from a relative in Russia. I must say, the thing is very useful on the farm, since frequent repairs and orders for countertops require good and reliable tool. I immediately started working with Baikal, starting to make a new countertop. I must say that the plane with a power of 700 Watts surpassed all its predecessors (I previously had Skil and BlackDekker with a power of 660 Watts). The plane is stable, moves smoothly and smoothly, dumps chips in a timely manner, has a deep quarter, a long cord and good ergonomics. Many people note that the E-313 plane is intended mainly for home use. That’s right, for work it’s better to take more expensive models, and since my works have figured parts, most of the parts are processed by hand; I only remove the uneven layers of the upper part with a plane.

This model can cut from 2 to 4 mm of wood, which is very convenient. The length of the blade is 82 mm; a mono blade would be longer, but it’s just right for small parts. If you lubricate it well, it will last a long time and be true! It is generally worth keeping silent about splinters in wood; in some cases I didn't even use sanding. The cord does not get tangled, there is the possibility of stationary installation, which allows you to cut exactly as much as you want.

I also let my neighbor use it for a while; to say that he was surprised is to say nothing. The table he made for the dacha is indistinguishable from the work of a professional carpenter. Of course, not without my instructions, but, nevertheless, this plane does wonders. And in capable hands - even more so. Thanks to the quarter adjustment, you can perform a wide variety of woodworking jobs by adjusting the depth and width of the cut. I note that not all electric planers allow you to select a quarter, and this is worth paying attention to.

This model is the cheapest, usually many people buy a more expensive one, with a 102 mm knife to cut faster. I think it's a matter of taste. But the price: quality ratio of the planer is just a fairy tale.

Probably the only thing that bothered me was the flashes and uneven joints on the plastic part. If the first one can be easily removed stationery knife, then I simply don’t pay attention to the second one. The assembly is excellent, the tool is very pleasant to work with; Few Russian instruments can pamper the buyer with these qualities. Compared to other imported planes, the “Baikal” will be heavier, there’s nothing you can do about it.

Video review

All(5)

An electric planer is a useful thing in the household, and if you are “building” or renovating a private house or cottage, then such a tool is simply necessary. I have already written about how to choose an electric plane, what you should pay attention to, if you are interested, you can read -. Well, today we will look at models from our domestic company “Baikal”, all its models, find out the prices, as well as the pros and cons. I present to your attention full review with photo.

The range of Baikal planers is represented by 4 models, which differ from each other in the power and width of the knife. Otherwise, they are like 2 peas in a pod. So, the models:

E312 AK - power 850 Watt, knife width 82 mm. Price 3000 rubles.
E313 - power 750 Watt, blade width 82 mm. Price 2700 rubles.
E315 AK - power 1000 Watt, width 102 mm - the coolest and best-selling model. Costs the most - 3500 rubles. High power of 1 kilowatt allows you to remove a decent layer of wood (3 mm) and not be afraid that the engine will burn out from overload. Cuts down everything, even twigs and nails)) Just kidding, cutting down nails is a bit hard))
E314 - power 750 Watt, knife width is also 102 mm, also sells very well. Cost 3200 rubles.

They take about 50/50, someone wants a plane with a 102 mm knife to process the board faster. And for those who just need it for home use, the cheapest model E313 is perfect - fortunately, the power of 750 Watts is quite enough to plan boards. And the blade width of 82 mm is standard for most planes. The equipment for all models is the same. In the photo below.

The prices are quite reasonable, not to say that the planes are expensive. Compared to low-power professional models, then professional ones cost a little more. But in terms of quality, “Baikal” is in the category of semi-professional tools, that is, it even competes with models from Bosch and Makita. At least many times these planes were bought from us for production, where they worked shoulder to shoulder with professional models - this is how “Baikal” held up very reliably. So we recommend that if there are decent loads, the Baikals can hold them. Using my jigsaw, I was convinced of this - .

As you can see, the models themselves are quite powerful, when compared with imported ones (Skil, Black & Dekker), they have a maximum power of 650 Watts. As you know, the more powerful the tool, the less load on the engine, which means that the plane will last a long time.

I confidently recommend the products of the Baikal company to all our customers - our domestic manufacturer (Izhevsk), this tool is of good quality, reliable, tested. And planes in general - in my opinion, they are best tool, the build quality is excellent and it is a pleasure to work with.

Of course, compared to other weaker imported models, the Baikal may be a little heavier, but nothing can be done about it. But manufacturers thought about this and released a special stand for sale, with the help of which the electric planer can be turned over and turned into a kind of woodworking machine.

Look, look at the photo, we turned the plane over - and we got a machine, skip the boards, there is also protection that will make the work safer. The stand has holes for firmly attaching it to the workbench. You can “tightly” screw it with bolts for greater reliability. The cost of a special stand for a plane is 450 rubles. Note that you can mount both 82 mm and 102 mm planes, fortunately the stand is adjustable in width. This stand is only suitable for Baikal models.

In general, the manufacturing guys are great, they think about those who will work with their tools and make the work as convenient as possible. Take it for example - it can also be conveniently turned over and secured on a workbench, creating a stationary circular saw.

What kind of work can be done with such a device?

First of all, this is the basic work of planing a layer of wood from a workpiece. Planers remove from 2 to 4 mm of wood, this is possible thanks to the increased power. The convenient handle for adjusting the planing depth will allow you to get the job done efficiently.

The second option, one of the most popular, is that you can choose a quarter. For those who don't know, quartering is the removal of a layer of wood from one edge of the board (you can adjust the width and depth of the removal). Most often this is done to create a fastening of boards, when part of one board overlaps the second. Many models do not have the ability to select a quarter, so be sure to buy electric planers that have this feature. Comes with a plane special device, it is attached like this.

You can choose a quarter of any size; to do this, use the swivels to adjust the depth and width of the sample.

Spare parts for Baikal are always on sale and are inexpensive, so there are no problems with repairs. Guarantee period 1-2 years depending on models.

It’s worth mentioning separately about knives for Baikal models, they (the knives) are noticeably different from imported ones, they are much thicker, more powerful, you can hit knots - nothing will happen to them. The knives are double-sided, so if the knife becomes dull, you can first turn it over. And if the knives are dull on both sides, then you can sharpen them yourself if you have emery on your household. For comparison, if you run an imported plane with thin bladed knives along a knot, the fragile knife will most likely break.