Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. Currently, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.
The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, fungi.
Chipboard can be sawed, planed, milled, nails or screws driven into it, drilled, cut. It can be used to make various parts of almost any shape. Possible use different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work; it is, after all, wood. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the advantages, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will discover how to avoid this problem and share some tips.
Preparing for work
Conditions
It must be remembered that for quality work Several conditions must be met.
- Install the stove correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard board must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
- The tool must be in good working order.
- Need to cut Chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
- It is best to apply masking tape to the cut line.
- You must strictly follow safety precautions.
Compliance with all the above conditions will guarantee receipt good results from the work done.
Expert advice
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"To work with concrete mixture it was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon to it washing powder based on a bucket of water. "
"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the obstacle, from rotating along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire over it and lightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is held well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening."
"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out half-holes of the required size with a chisel or hatchet, and then connect the halves again."
Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut out the new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Using a nail of a suitable diameter heated red hot, melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.
" Carpenter's level it is not difficult to turn it into a theodolite, equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight. "
"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end to end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the noleum."
"So that the nail goes into in the right direction and did not bend when driven into a deep hole or groove, you should place it inside the tube, securing it with crumpled paper or plasticine. "
Before drilling a hole in concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.
"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple device will help - a piece of motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and secured to a crowbar on the other side. "
"In order for one person to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom position."
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.
" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. Stuck on dead. "
When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.
"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."
"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make one from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."
"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."
"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "
"Attach portraits, photographs, paintings to wooden frames It is more convenient to work with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the risk of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum. "
"It is not so easy to screw a screw into hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."
To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and with a simple pencil outline the edge border on the outside. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.
For carrying at home large sheets plywood, glass or thin iron, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.
IF you need to saw a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely along the stick.
It will be better and easier to work with a hacksaw if in the middle part you increase the height of the teeth by 1/3.
If on the front of the machine bow saw attach a load weighing about a kilogram, then the work will become easier. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.
"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors. "
"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. Take a piece of rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. It is protected from slipping off by a ring cut from an old car camera."
" Avoid using clamps when gluing wooden frames A laundry cord will help. You should put four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long ones to tighten the frames diagonally. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "
"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, lubricated with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."
"To make it easier to sand a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it with an iron through a damp cloth - and the work will become easier."
"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."
Electric manual Circular Saw In just a few years it will celebrate its centenary. During this time, the “circular” or “parquet” reached technically, if not perfection, then very great heights. Despite all the complexity of the mechanism and settings, the tool has very high safety measures!
It would be strange if a circular saw only served for cutting wood and derivative materials such as plywood, fiberboard, chipboard. Replacing disks and exposing required quantity rpm, this unit can easily cut blanks for laminate, plastic, organic glass and even slate. In a word, he can handle almost all sheet materials, literally and figuratively. Perhaps you shouldn’t experiment with concrete and brick - other tools will handle them, the same circular saws, only for the appropriate purpose.
In choosing a tool the most important role, oddly enough, diameter plays a role cutting disc. After all, if you think about it, it turns out that the diameter of the cutting disc is the parameter that manufacturers have to comply with. Increasing the diameter simply won’t work - you need to increase the motor power in order to spin the tool to the required speed, and therefore, you will need more torque to maintain this speed. Following the torque, it is necessary to improve the stabilization system, which will protect the tool from noise and vibration.
But simply focusing on the diameter of the circle is not enough, because this indicator in fact can have a completely different meaning in the maximum depth of cut. Developers must indicate these parameters in the data sheets accompanying the tools. The most versatile are saws with a cutting depth from 50 mm to 65 mm. Smaller diameter tools are suitable for sawing sheet materials, while units from 65 mm are professional. You should choose among them based on your needs.
Circular saws for wood are no longer possible without reliable and sophisticated electronics. Of course, the more complex it is, the more finance will have to spend when choosing. However, the costs will be recouped when working. What is the cost of the system for maintaining a constant frequency - during operation, the device itself controls the speed of revolutions, and if this indicator drops sharply, for example, when it comes to a higher density of material, then the feed power automatically increases. This will prevent the disc from jamming in the cut, and the quality of the cut itself will noticeably improve.
From network overload when starting the tool, almost all powerful circular saws are equipped with a soft start system, which significantly extends the life of the tools. Not all saws are equipped with a preset idle year, which plays a big role if you have to work with various kinds materials. But all high-quality models are able to independently protect themselves from overloads if the operator does not count the time spent at work.
A sensitive system will react to excess temperature of the motor winding and turn off the power, thereby saving a decent amount of money. Unlike most tools, which are equipped with protection against accidental activation, the safety button, without which it is impossible to press the trigger, does not allow the trigger to be held on. Such a “beast” as a circular saw must always be under control. The functionality of the circular saw largely depends on the base plate.
It is precisely this element of the tool on which its versatility in terms of working from different angles depends.
The adjustment of an inclined cut, for example, is set precisely by the positions of the platform. Usually it is possible to set the desired tilt within 45°, although on professional devices this parameter is increased by another 10 times. Pay attention to how tightly the platform parts are fitted to each other, because the slightest play can affect the result. A well-thought-out platform allows you to turn a manual unit into a stationary circular saw, a kind of machine without a table. This function is good for any unit, but for especially powerful ones it is doubly good, because a table circular saw significantly expands the list of tasks that can be accomplished using the tool. Don't forget about safety and ergonomics!
Today, a spring-loaded casing is a mandatory part of all circular saws - it completely hides the disk when the unit is idle, and releases it only when there is a stop against the workpiece. Since you will be dealing with hand tools, the issue of its convenience is very important. There are even models for left-handed people! First of all, pay attention to the location of the handles and their shape - as practice shows, if you need an approach from different sides, a mushroom handle is much more convenient, since a straight handle allows you to work comfortably only by cutting in a straight line away from you.
Preparing circular saws for work - sharpening and setting
New tools and disks do not require preparation, however, different manufacturers There may be different wishes on this matter. Over time, it won’t hurt to check the shape of the disc for any deviations from flatness, as well as straighten, sharpen and set the cutting teeth. Flatness can be checked using a special straight edge or special device. If you find irregularities in the shape, mark the areas with chalk and correct them using a hammer.
Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a regular guide circular saw.
We will show it using a hand-held circular saw as an example, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get similar quality cuts with a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.
What affects the quality of chipboard cutting?
IN in this case We will be sawing chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, it has a hard adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.
Saw blade. How to choose it?
When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be durable, because the properties of the glue are very close to glass and dull the tool itself quite quickly. Therefore, in the process of cutting chipboard, you need to choose enough good wheels to cut with them without loss of quality for a long time.
What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?
If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of burrs, because “by hand” it is practically impossible to guide the saw straight through the cut.
On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard workpiece and leave marks on it.
It is important to position the workpiece front part down. Why?
The disk rotates from bottom to top; it cuts the pile of the workpiece upward onto the base. Thus, from below, on front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems begin to form at the top, where the teeth exit the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, and piles happen.
How to minimize them, or avoid them altogether? There are several simple tricks and we will tell you about them now.
Technique 1. Cutting along the guide
We install a guide (rail) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and make the cut. As you can see for yourself, even on outside There are no chips or explosions in our chipboard workpiece. The cut itself was smooth with no signs of scoring or side waves. Why such difference?
What is the merit of the guide?
When we saw with a disk, we inevitably move the saw, the so-called “iron movement” is obtained. That is, when we move our hand, we constantly move the saw to the right and left. A guide that has a hard edge allows you to avoid this.
Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself works smoothly, without changing its position. The result is an ideal line parallel to the guide.
What to do if you don’t have a hand-held circular saw and guide?
You need to make the guide yourself. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any smooth slats, the main thing is that its geometry is smooth.
We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We attach the guide to the workpiece using any clamp and begin cutting.
The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always guide the saw towards the homemade tire.
After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We performed the cut very efficiently, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. With the exception of a small pile on the back side of the workpiece.
Where did this lint come from, since we were working with a guide (tire)?
The purchased cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape prevents the pile from rising and the saw cuts it. In this case, we didn’t have this tape, so we got this lint on the surface.
What to do with the pile in this case?
There are two options:
1. Take regular masking tape. It is glued to the place of the cut, markings are made on it and sawed together with masking tape. The tape holds the ingrown in place and when cutting we get everything clean.
2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same thing with a slower feed, then there will be much fewer chips.
Technique 2. “Reverse cut.”
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates as the workpiece is fed. We exhibit minimum depth cutting, turn on the saw and it moves not forward, but backward.
If you have regular saw, then simply fix the saw with minimal overhang beyond the base. The point of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only catches our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.
Having made the first - trimming cut - you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (backwards). The surface is perfect!
Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - forward feed. We will get two cuts per workpiece. No wave cuts, arson, nothing - perfect quality!
Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chipping
How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping .
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw laminated chipboard only using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with your own hands. then it’s better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE OFF. I don’t want to drag myself back to the workshop, but I need to cut.
This article aims to answer this question. The review of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text????
Method 1 - Scratch
The old-fashioned way. Previously it was used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard coated with a thick layer of varnish. Nowadays it is rarely used. Using a ruler, use an awl or a simple nail to scratch a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.
After this, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not go past it. You can cut with either a jigsaw or a hand saw.
In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.
Detailed tutorial on this method 
The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly along the line. So slow.
Short cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met. 
Firstly, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and a new one. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.
Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. The speed should not be set to maximum (slightly above average.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to maintain the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.
Method 3 - Circular saw
To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). It is more convenient to make long straight cuts with circular saws than with a jigsaw. But in this case, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. Pieces break off from the opposite side (bottom)).
You can cut like a free-flying saw (it’s quite difficult to guide exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - there is a lot of hassle with markings. 
Same with a saw fixed to the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the cutting accuracy and allow you to stamp identical parts.
Even if you use a finishing disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.
Method 4 - Sawing with trimming
This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, it will require plunge saw. but, in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw. To work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured simple circular with a homemade tire). 
The whole trick is to, by analogy with a cutting machine, make two cuts strictly along the same line.
Cutting along a tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out pieces of it. 
If you enlarge the photo it will look something like this
The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the point where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing. 
Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curved cuts, that is, the production of many radius parts. including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
http://ruki-zolotye.ru
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw laminated chipboard only using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Method 5 - Fraser
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making many, including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.