Where to start repairing a toilet: sequence of work, expert advice. Interesting small toilet design

Building company"YASK" - BUILD on high level will repair your toilet for you, the price of our company will certainly allow you to purchase additional accessories or instead cosmetic repairs You can do what you want major renovation for the same money! We are one of the few companies that can do everything for you in a standard bathroom from 14999 rubles, capital from 17800 rubles, and Euro-lux from 22650 rubles!

Toilet repair prices in our company are minimal and affordable because:

The company "YASK" - STROY has been working in the field of providing repair services since 1996, we have great experience work, so we don’t impose any additional or hidden services on you, everything is honest and transparent!
We have entered into contracts with large construction hypermarket chains, thanks to which we have permanent discounts from 14% on the entire range building materials, and as a result, this discount goes to you;
We do not include in the price possible jumps dollar exchange rate, delivery, damage to materials, additional risks, errors, etc., because we always have an emergency supply of materials in our own warehouses and a professional team of engineering and technical workers;
recorded and spelled out in the construction contract, agreed with the customer in advance and not subject to unreasonable increases!

In our work we use only environmentally friendly clean materials, plumbing equipment from world famous brands and the best ceramic tiles. We provide a guarantee of up to 5 years for all repairs! In addition, if our craftsmen, for their own reasons, cannot cope with the renovation of the bathroom within the time specified in the contract, we will refund you up to 15% of the estimated cost!

Toilet repair price

On our website you can see completed projects and their prices, choose something for yourself, and also use a calculator to calculate the cost of future work.

So dismantling plumbing accessories will cost you 45 rubles. per unit, plaster at 145 rubles. per sq. m, and the labor-intensive dismantling of partitions costs 362 rubles. per sq.m. In general, you can calculate everything that needs to be dismantled yourself or use the services of our company’s free measurer. On average, dismantling costs 3 thousand rubles.

As for installation, all wiring of water supply and sewerage pipes costs 3700 rubles, tile laying from 680 rub. (depending on the cost of the tile itself), installation regular toilet from 850 rubles, hanging from 2100 rubles, installation of a mixer - 615 rubles. etc. The website also lists the price for installing a ceiling in a toilet, from priming to lighting.

In addition, we present to your attention design examples of bathroom renovations. Choose, order the arrival of an estimator-designer, and we will make the repair exactly as in the photo!

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master finishing technologies, then repairing a toilet with your own hands will be an excellent training for you: small area premises will significantly reduce temporary and financial expenses, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the renovation and design of a toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account preparation for finishing, tiling of the floor and walls, and installation suspended ceiling, and installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in episode 137 standard apartments The dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact version design, using materials that are accessible and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start renovating a toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the room into a decent appearance, first of all we will remove the old finish. For this:

We dismantle the toilet by disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that secures the product to the floor.
We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them too.
We remove the old finish - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a hammer drill or a drill with an attachment in the form of a stiff wire brush.

When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep grooves, then they do not need to be removed - just turn off the power to the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
After removal construction waste We treat surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing is completed.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

IN panel house In a typical building, very often it is in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a complex reconstruction, this is where it is worth laying the distribution unit, hiding all the pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When renovating a toilet, I usually do this:

First I lay sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, so it can be laid with minimum slope towards the drain. I select the pipe for direct connection so that it matches the configuration of the toilet outlet - straight or inclined.
At the same stage I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that the slope is maintained at about 2 cm per linear meter.

I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect an outlet for cistern. If you plan to install a washbasin in the bathroom (such options are implemented in larger areas), I make two separate outlets with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate grooves for the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you don’t plan to install it right now), immediately lay the piping for its installation.

I lay the wiring for installing the socket for the water heater in a groove. For lighting along the ceiling, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

From wooden beam, impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box to mask risers, pipework and other elements. It is worth sheathing it immediately before finishing - this way we will not damage the gypsum board during other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After this we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to renovate a toilet, we first need to approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice the most different schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to waste time masking already finished surfaces with film, cloth, newspapers, etc.

It is based on these considerations that I prefer to start with ceiling repairs:

Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part I beat straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The indentation depends on the dimensions of the recessed luminaires. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

Along the line I install on the walls either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam.
I attach guides to the ceiling using metal hangers: I also make them either from timber or from a metal profile. All parts are fixed to the load-bearing surfaces using dowels for express installation.
After completing work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with groove for plastic panels. To attach to wood, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer in using a construction stapler.
The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- This is a ceiling covering with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, and then install it on the ceiling: the ends need to be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks must be secured to the frame beams using a stapler.

In the selected location, I make a hole in the plastic panel through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually install the device itself at the very end of the repair, so for lighting a temporary structure is used from an incandescent lamp with a socket taped to the wires with electrical tape.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option here there will be tiling: the small area significantly reduces purchasing costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finishing is hygienic and durable.

Sequence of work in in this case will be as follows:

I check the walls using a level, and if necessary, I do rough alignment. For high-quality cladding, it is important that differences in plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a hammer drill, and then sand them concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, especially in a room like a bathroom, is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.

I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
I cover the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
I soak the tiles in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to significantly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

I'm cooking glue mixture, diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly using a drill attachment: this needs to be done at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now let's start with the cladding:

I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between the rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. Using the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves to evenly distribute the composition.
It is important not to apply glue to too large an area. Focus on the speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
According to the markings, I apply the tiles to the wall, press them and level them. Using a spatula, carefully remove any protruding excess glue.
To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic spacer crosses.

Wall tiles are laid in rows, from top to bottom. For getting beautiful drawing You can arrange elements offset - in this case, the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 the width. The accuracy of installation is checked using a level and plumb line; if necessary, the position of tiles is adjusted and added/removed adhesive composition.

After finishing the cladding, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I grout the seams. Grout is a paste that is used to fill the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout is dry, I have one last, purely cosmetic step: wash the tile cladding and wipe it with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough and promptly removed excess glue and grout from the surface, then this task will not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the toilet floor with my own hands, I usually assess its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, so the first part of the work on the floor covering is carried out before finishing the walls.

To begin with, I once again clean the base from dust and debris and impregnate it with a penetrating primer.
Then I apply it with my own hands waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the rooms underneath from leaks, so it is worth forming a so-called “trough” here - covering not only the floor, but also the walls with waterproofing to a height of about 15 cm.

I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick on top of the waterproofing. For filling I use self-leveling compounds with quick hardening: their price is higher than the standard one cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and significantly.

After the screed has dried (in best case scenario it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with soil.
For work I choose only floor tiles: they are both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be rebuilt.

Apply tile adhesive to the base using a trowel. cement based. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over a surface of approximately 1 m2 and begin cladding.
I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating them in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacer inserts.

After tiling, I let the glue dry, grout the seams, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The toilet repair itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. There are no special difficulties expected here, but you will have to work hard, especially if in addition to the toilet you also need a washstand:

We install the toilet on the floor in the selected location, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
We make marks at the location of the mounting holes, remove the toilet bowl and use a hammer drill to drill sockets to secure the product.

We hammer dowels into the sockets, install the toilet in place and fix it anchor bolts. In this case, we either insert the toilet outlet directly into the sewer pipe or connect it to it using a flexible corrugation.

We install a tank on top, which we secure to the base with screws and cap nuts.
We connect a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
We place the sink against the wall and mark the mounting points.
According to the markings, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet, we hammer plastic dowels.

Next, we either attach brackets to the wall on which we install the washbasin, or we fix the sink itself to the base using anchors with cap nuts.
We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
We install the mixer, leading to it flexible hoses with cold and hot water.
After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the functionality of the system and check for leaks.
Then we take the prepared recessed lamps, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

Cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much a bathroom renovation will cost, you need to know its area, what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing ourselves or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate calculations, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting into the budget about 30% more funds than what is calculated.

To make budgeting easier, I advise you to use a table containing approximate prices for materials used in bathroom renovations. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as a basis), but it gives a full idea of the order of numbers:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Self-leveling floor mixture	25 kg	280 – 750
Budget tiles for walls	m2	45 — 90
Mid-price wall tiles	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for interior works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling cladding	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm	1 linear m	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 linear m	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 linear m	70 — 120
Crimping fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer tap with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washbasin Santeri	PC.	900
Compact toilet Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, we need to take into account that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealant, gaskets, etc. So the budget margin mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of testing ground for the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. By focusing on the recommendations given, tips in the comments and videos in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skills, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Materials for work:

tiles two suitable shades for walls (top and bottom), transitional narrow tiles, as well as floor tiles. The number of tiles is selected in proportion to the area of the walls and floor.
distribution flexible pipes;
toilet;
LED light bulbs;
plastic panels for the ceiling and metal profiles for them;
with a set of copper wires;
plytonite and grout;
door, door frame and locking device;
primer and a set of screws and dowels.

Repair of a small toilet in an apartment

Toilet repair small size is one of the most simple repairs which you can do yourself. The only thing you should not try to do yourself is to cut threads on the supply stationary pipes. Here you need to use the services of a plumbing specialist who will shut off the access to water and be able to do high-quality thread cutting. This is a responsible job; to perform it, you will need a special, expensive tool, which not every user has.

Preparing the room involves completely cleaning it. All old tiles from the floor and walls, old plumbing. Surfaces are cleaned sandpaper, are cleaned of dust and a layer of soil is applied to them.

The next step is to apply plitonite. This is a very good, durable solution, which can be applied to perfectly level the walls. After this, the ceiling and lighting are installed. The work is not difficult in principle, but it requires painstaking and careful attention. Then the tiles are glued sequentially, starting from the lower layers and ending with the upper ones. Each layer must be allowed to dry thoroughly. While gluing the tiles, its plane is adjusted using a mallet with rubber coating. After gluing the tiles, you need to install the hood and connect it to the light connector so that when the light is turned on, the fan will automatically start.

After the tiles have dried, they are grouted decoratively and a presentable surface is prepared. appearance. Using anchors, the toilet is screwed to the floor and the supply pipes are connected. All are installed decorative elements necessary to give greater functionality to the room.

Now I want to save on everything, including repairs.

And if, having entered your own toilet, you finally understand that it requires at least cosmetic repairs, you don’t have to hire builders.

You can gather your strength and renovate the toilet with your own hands. And if you have no idea where to start, the best option would be to visit relatives, close friends and neighbors to put together a picture for yourself of what your new toilet should be like. At the same time, pay more attention to technologies, which were used during the repair.

Now on the building materials market there is a bunch of various primers and lubricants that improve. Therefore, you can easily choose the material that suits your price.

If there are cracks and dents in the walls, they must first be repaired. cement solution. After it has completely dried, the walls and ceiling must be carefully primed.

Pipe installation

Of course, you can replace the entire riser, but for this it is better to call specialist and come to an agreement with your neighbors.

If replacing the riser is not part of your plans, you can stop at the section of pipeline passing through your apartment.

However, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to leave pipe replacement for later. It should also be taken into account that they can be hide in a special decorative box or cabinet.

Leveling the floor

Firstly, they are cheaper. A Secondly, have excellent sound insulation, durability, and are very easy to install.

Initially, you need to decide how much to buy.

Depending on the perimeter of the toilet and the presence of shelves and drawers, calculate sq. m. occupied by panels. You also need to purchase skirting boards and metal profiles, to which they will be attached cladding panels. It is advisable not to buy very thin plastic as it is less durable. Give preference to materials with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

So, initially you need to create frame from metal siding with the obligatory use of a plumb line. In this case, it is advisable to screw the profiles to the ceiling so that it does not bend over time.

Then we begin gather directly plastic panels, planting them on dowels. This must be done very carefully, since plastic, even despite its thickness, is quite fragile.

After finishing the work, it is advisable to make corner joints miss silicone glue to prevent moisture from getting in there. Skirting boards located on top can also be glued using silicone, while the bottom ones are screwed with dowels.

It looks great, is comfortable and easy to care for.

Repairing a toilet with wallpaper

This the most budget from existing options. For repairs you will definitely need washable wallpaper good quality based on polypropylene or polyester.

The walls must be fine prepared, there should be no traces of paint or plaster on them, because your new wallpaper may simply fall off.

Surfaces are treated with waterproofing and primer to avoid the appearance of fungus and better surface adhesion. Also, when using a primer, you will save a little on glue.

Wallpaper is glued using plumb line and carefully ironing the seams. The advantage of such a repair is its budget And simplicity wallpapering. However, such a toilet will not be very practical, and after a few years you will again have to take up construction tools.

So it's not that difficult or expensive to do. You can always choose building materials according to your wallet and preferences. What is absolutely not worth saving on is plumbing And tile. But in general, a little willpower, ingenuity and desire, and in a couple of days you will boast that you have mastered a new profession as a builder.

Decorating a toilet - a room for a specific purpose, and also a miniature one - requires maximum practicality, while even the slightest discrepancy with the chosen stylistic direction This is where it will catch your eye.

Correctly selected and laid tiles in the toilet are probably the most competent and therefore popular solution. Let's look at how to choose the right tiles for the toilet and how to install them efficiently.

Criteria for choosing tiles for a toilet

The specifics of this room make it possible to use both floor and. Before laying tiles in the toilet, you need to understand what features the material has in order to understand what type of tiles are suitable for a particular case.

Design features of tiles

It is necessary to select tiles based on the following design features material:

Floor and wall tiles differ in thickness - floor tiles, of course, are thicker. In addition, one type of tile is also distinguished from another by the presence of back side the corresponding sign: for a wall - a hand, for a floor foot.
due to the specific location, it is more durable, hygroscopic and wear-resistant.
Tiles of class PEI1 and PEI2 are suitable as flooring for the toilet the best way, since it is intended for installation in rooms where walking without shoes or in soft indoor shoes is expected.
Type A and AA markings indicate that the tiles are not afraid of contact with any household chemicals.

Choosing the shape and size of tiles for the toilet

The spatial perception of the toilet room directly depends on the size and shape of the tiles.

The tiles in the toilet are selected based on the following features:

Design rules regulate the use of dimensions of interior parts in accordance with the scale of the room, which is also applicable for such finishing materials like tiles. In other words, than smaller area toilet, the smaller the dimensions of the tiled elements should be. Otherwise, the room will seem even smaller.
For a toilet floor with an area of 0.8*1.5 m, 15*15 cm tiles are considered optimal.
For walls, this rule is not so categorical; one tile larger than 15 cm is still not worth choosing.

Advice!
Choosing tiles on trading platform, you should pay attention to the correctness of its geometry, since even in one batch there may be tiles of different thicknesses, uneven edges, etc., and this can seriously damage the appearance of the toilet’s tiles.

Tile color and material

Depending on the material, color and texture, tiles for the toilet should be selected based on the following:

More often than other types in stores you can find ceramic, glass tile and mosaics, of which "ceramics" is the most common.
Each type of tile is attractive in its own way:
- ceramic tiles – price and moisture resistance;
- glass – visually attractive and highly resistant to household chemicals;
- mosaic – the broadest possibilities in the design of patterns, paintings, etc.

Limited space in the toilet forces the use of tiles in wall decoration light shades, reflect light well. In this case, the floor can be finished in black, giving a feeling of depth and visually increasing the volume of the room.

As for the texture, it is important to choose tiles for the floor with a non-smooth, rough surface, which will avoid slipping.
Patterned tiles, friezes, inserts and borders are elements that allow you to decorate a room.
Since the geometry of the toilet is usually extended upward, it is necessary to visually expand the room, which will allow the transverse laying of tiles in a rectangular toilet.

Technology for laying tiles in the toilet

Preparation for laying tiles in the toilet includes the mandatory dismantling of the old floor covering. You shouldn’t touch the toilet in the toilet; it’s better to cut the tiles to fit the shape of the toilet and lay them around it.

The walls and floor must be primed with a special solution, and after it has dried, tiles can be laid, starting from the floor.

Laying floor tiles in the toilet

In the toilet, laying tiles on the floor is carried out according to the following instructions:

Applying a thin layer to the base, first lay out a tiled array of whole tiles, starting from the center of the room, and then move towards finishing the periphery, laying down the trimmings. This way, the trimmings will not be so noticeable.
You can start laying from the entrance of the room and move further inland.
The gap between the tiles should be approximately 2 mm. It can be adjusted with special plastic crosses.
The degree of evenness of the laid tiles must be constantly checked by level.

Advice!
The adhesive should be applied generously to the base to avoid air gaps and sinks under a layer of tiles.

Laying tiles on the walls in the toilet

For installation wall tiles should proceed after the floor covering has dried.

The technology for laying wall tiles is as follows:

The tiles are laid on the walls from bottom to top, starting the laying of each next horizontal row after laying the previous one.
Installation of tiles begins from the most visible far corner, and cut tiles, accordingly, should be less noticeable.
The seams between the tiles are covered with grout of a suitable color.

Otherwise, laying tiles on walls is identical to floor cladding.

As a result, having repaired a toilet with tiles, you will get an almost eternal facing covering, which will require the next renovation, most likely, only when there is a desire to change the design in the toilet. Difficulties in laying tiles can arise only during the first installation. After gaining the first experience, repeated tiling will no longer be such a problem for you.