Where does siding installation begin? Various types of siding

Installing siding on the walls of the facade of a house can be easily and quickly if you know a few important features installation Technology correct installation siding first of all involves careful preparation of the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls relative to the vertical level is the key to quick and correct installation siding. In the article we will look at some important features of installing siding with your own hands, and the video instructions below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.

Features of installing siding yourself

Today to the most popular and budget materials Vinyl and metal siding can be used for façade finishing. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quite easy and quick, so you can do it yourself. Installation of siding should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame consisting of dry and level wooden blocks ( a budget option), as well as on a metal profile sheathing.

Do-it-yourself technology for installing sheathing under siding

Experts recommend using dry sheathing as a material for installing sheathing under siding. wooden blocks or metal profiles. The bars must be free of cracks and knots, dry and even, and not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, since, firstly, they are heavy and inconvenient, and secondly, self-tapping screws are difficult to screw into them and nails are hammered into them. Ideal and also economical option for the bars it is pine.
It is better to choose bars no longer than 3 m in length; at this length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the bar should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a block of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
You can also make a sheathing for siding from metal profiles. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly smooth and strong enough, so this the best option for the subsystem, although such sheathing will cost a little more, unlike wooden blocks.
Basically, to install lathing under siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is used everywhere. The length of this profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, height 27 mm. Typically, the length of the profile is sufficient for lathing under the siding of one-story buildings, and if the façade height is more than 3 m, the profiles are added, and the profile must also be added under the cladding of the gable part of the wall.

The bars are installed on the wall as follows:

Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl make the necessary markings on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the sheathing bars is no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding no less than 400-600 mm. It is better to mark for the installation of hangers for fastening slats with a pencil or chalk using a profile or block, as well as a building level.
For quick marking, draw marks on the lower part of the façade with suitable spacing and, relying on them using a profile and level, draw marks for installing hangers in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the next walls.
For a height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to attach at least 4-5 hangers approximately every 50-60 cm.

IMPORTANT! Direct metal hangers for installation of sheathing for siding are used mainly for light type of finishing materials (vinyl or metal siding); use, for example, such fasteners for cladding facades with heavy fiber cement panels for exterior finishing at home is not practical. In the case of heavy types of facing facade materials To fasten the subsystem, use special metal brackets securely fixed to the wall.

TO wooden wall The suspension is attached in the center of the marked line with two wood screws no less than 30 cm long.
After that, the hangers are bent in a U-shape and the profiles are inserted into them.
Installation of all profiles should begin by installing the profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, level the profile first in one corner, then repeat the operation in the other.
Screw the self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the corner profiles and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from the bottom and top.

IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, so when setting all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock down the lacing.

The sheathing is exposed over the entire area of the facade, now you can begin installing the siding yourself.

Features of installing horizontal siding

Horizontal installation of siding panels is a more preferable option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, as it has good aesthetic characteristics and also better protects the façade from weather conditions.
The siding must be fastened horizontally to a sheathing mounted vertically. In this case, the starting profile is also fixed in a horizontal position, 1-2 cm away from the base (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and, without tension, carefully screw it to the sheathing; in this case, the panel must be pushed almost flush (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.

Vertical installation of siding

To install siding vertically, horizontal installation of fittings will be required. In this case, you will have to fasten the siding panel from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before installing the siding) into the groove of which you need to push the bottom edge of the panel. A starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws into the profiled holes of the siding panel should be screwed into the upper part of the slot (not completely) leaving a small gap of about 1-1.5 mm, compensating for temperature effects.

How to properly install siding on metal or wood sheathing

Siding can be installed either on a wooden subsystem or on a metal one. Siding installation technology for wooden blocks involves the use of wood screws with rare carvings of at least 30 cm in length. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastening element (not recommended).
The siding is installed onto the metal sheathing using metal screws with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the screw should be a minimum of no more than 20 mm, thus it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the screw into the metal profile.

IMPORTANT! Self-tapping screws for installing siding yourself should be galvanized, this way you will prevent rusty stains on the surface of the siding cladding.

The technology for fastening siding involves the preliminary installation of fittings for all additional accessories and elements. Included with the siding you must purchase starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, slope strips, and soffits. Only after all the additional elements have been installed can you begin to install the siding itself.

Finally

The price per square meter of siding from various companies can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out measures to do-it-yourself siding installation and save a lot of money at the same time. The savings can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.

In fact, there is nothing difficult about installing siding yourself. You just need a little desire and a little optimism, and also have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.

Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instructions

Today in the field building materials presents the widest range of siding produced according to the latest technologies. The most popular among buyers are vinyl, zinc, steel, aluminum and wood material for surface finishing.

Make a choice in favor certain type not enough, you need to know how to lay siding. Regardless of the material, the installation process is almost the same, so it’s enough to figure out how to mount vinyl panels.

Covering with siding panels

Among the variety of materials, vinyl siding takes a leading position and is successfully used in finishing residential buildings. It is made in the form of polyvinyl chloride panels with a thickness of 1 mm and is laid by overlapping each other (overlapping). The siding surface may vary in texture, but imitation wood is often used.

The panels are 30-40 cm long and 20-25 cm wide, with slight adjustments depending on the manufacturer.

Siding has become so popular because it has a number of significant advantages, some of which are described below:

Vinyl siding has high environmental safety indicators.
The panels are highly resistant to temperature fluctuations and resistant to fire.
Over a long service life, the material does not rot and does not change its original shape and color.
To carry out installation work, you do not need to have professional skills and specialized tools, so the installation can be done independently.

Working with siding panels is permissible not only on new buildings, but also for cladding buildings that are in operation. However, before you begin the finishing process, carefully understand the technological intricacies.

Manufacturing of sheathing

Getting ready for installation work, you must carefully study the method of covering siding panels by reading the instructions, which indicate step by step order actions.

Initially, you need to determine the amount of material required to cover your structure. This is done by calculating the area of the facades, taking into account a 10% reserve that will be used to adjust the panels during installation.
Siding requires preliminary preparation surfaces from which all foreign elements that may interfere with installation must be removed. Window openings must be freed from grilles, trim, shutters and slopes; also remove doors and drain pipes.
If necessary, seal gaps and renew (strengthen) the previous finish.
The next stage of the finishing process should be the manufacture of lathing from wooden beams, which are fixed on the wall surface along a vertical line in increments of 30-40 centimeters. The sheathing is not made by fastening the beams in a horizontal position, otherwise a violation will occur natural ventilation space, which is covered with panels. Sheathing should also be installed around doors, windows and at the corners of the house.
Consider sealing areas exposed to moisture using special products.
The siding finishing process begins with determining the starting installation point. The panels should be fixed in such a way that they cover part of the foundation from above. That is, horizontal markings are made on the surface of the walls of the building along the entire perimeter.

Siding panel cladding technology

Next, take the starting strip supplied with the material and nail it with nails at the level of the previously made markings.
Next, secure one panel of siding to the starting strip and nail it across the entire area, working from the center.
After securing the new section of the initial strip, continue sequential installation of the next rows of siding panels.
When starting to install the final panel row, secure the finishing strip by nailing it to the surface of the cornice.

Siding insulation measures

Siding panels are subject to temperature fluctuations, which can lead to changes in the original geometric parameters. To avoid this during installation, it is necessary to provide clearances for possible deformation.

If you follow all these simple rules and technology, you can easily cover your house with siding panels and give it a beautiful appearance. If everything is done correctly, the result will please you for a long time without additional repairs.

Video

We present to your attention a video that shows how siding is installed on an old wooden house:

Finishing the facade with siding and installing a drainage system:

There are already quite a few, including on this site. The material is practical, relatively inexpensive, absolutely accessible. After the purchase, the following question immediately arises: should I entrust the sheathing to an invited craftsman, or should I do it myself? The first option is preferable if there is excess money. If there is none, you will have to install the siding yourself. Video instructions (and more than one) will help any novice builder master this process.

Preparation

Before you begin directly installing the siding, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. This will take some time, but will ensure comfortable work and eliminate errors. What activities should be included in the preparatory phase?

Workplace design. The space around the house along the perimeter should be cleared; it is advisable to install a workbench for marking and cutting material.

A prerequisite is that the house must already shrink, the resulting cracks must be hidden under facade plaster, the video instructions below show this process.

If an old building is being clad, it is necessary to dismantle the existing casing, problem areas(mold, rot) are treated with an antiseptic, painted or removed. Seams and chips can be treated with sealant.

Next, we must remember that no surface can be perfectly flat. There will inevitably be depressions, protrusions, and general deviations from the vertical and horizontal. All these flaws will have to be eliminated. Somewhere cut a piece of reinforcement, somewhere a piece of a nail.

The next stage of installing siding with your own hands is stuffing the sheathing. It can be of two types: wooden bars or metal profiles. The distance between the supporting elements is 350-400 mm.

Insulation is placed in the spaces between them ( basalt wool, extruded or expanded polystyrene foam).

Only after this can we say that preparatory work finished, and the siding itself can be installed. However, we remember that there are at least three types of this finishing material on sale (vinyl, metal and base). Each of them has some features and installation secrets. It's time to clearly see what they are.

Video instructions - do-it-yourself metal siding installation

This video shows how an ordinary white brick you can “dress” it in a cute outfit. Installation demonstrated wooden sheathing, the process of insulation, laying metal siding.

In this video, metal profiles are attached to a wooden base.

Finally, this video contains specific instructions on how to properly attach metal structures, how to install metal siding yourself, how to go around windows, etc.

Some practical advice. The installation pitch is 350-400 mm. The panels should move slightly freely on the screws.

Video instructions - DIY vinyl siding installation

Very detailed instructions for vinyl siding.

The lath fastening, sealing, geometry of hardware, the DIY installation process, permissible gaps, type of components, and around corners are clearly shown.

This video demonstrates how vinyl siding can be used to turn a nondescript house into a "candy house."

If something is not clear after viewing, here is a short algorithm for installing siding.

First, the technical elements are put: starting bar, butt H-bars, J-profiles for window decoration, corner elements. In this case, the starting strip must be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Fastening elements - galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

The “corners” first move freely on the upper hardware.

All screws are not tightened until they stop by 1 turn to compensate for thermal expansion.

After connecting the siding panels into a lock, you simply press them to the base and secure them.

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Vinyl siding is a simple enough material that you can work with it yourself. We provide step-by-step illustrated instructions for self-installation.

Siding is installed either directly on the walls of the house or on pre-installed sheathing. If lathing is planned, then installing it yourself will also be the first stage of siding installation.

Siding installation

The entire installation process with your own hands or by workers can be divided into the following installation stages:

We mark and attach the starting J-profiles

When installing siding yourself, especially for the first time, it is better to invest as much time in starting profiles as necessary.

Using a building level, determine the lowest point on the lathing, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the lathing with a shallowly screwed screw (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1: Starting profiles must be installed strictly horizontally

As you move around the house, continue to mark with screws at the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.

If everything is measured accurately, the start and finish points will coincide!

Pull the cords onto the screw-marks screwed into the corners (Fig. 1).

Mark the boundaries of the location of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the sheathing and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).

Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal space of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, attach the J-profiles to the slats.

Do not forget about the technological gap of 10-12 mm between the profiles so that they do not touch during temperature changes.

There should also be a gap between the profiles and nail strips (Fig. 3).

If desired, instead of a 6 mm indentation, you can trim the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not rest against the starting profile during temperature changes (Fig. 4).

Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensure that the starting profiles are installed strictly horizontal!

A filled level during DIY installation will result in a number of siding panels also being skewed. Correcting this situation will be very difficult and may result in a violation of installation technology.

It is better to spend any amount of time maintaining the horizontal level of profiles - the time spent will pay off!

Installation of external corner profiles

Before installation external corners, install or mark the soffits so you can see where their edges will go.

Attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing so that the distance to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and secure it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.

The corner profile will be suspended with a distance of 3 mm from the soffit; the lower edge of the profile should be positioned 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).

Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, secure the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend not placing fasteners too often in the corner profile.

2 potential issues with DIY installation:

The height of the house exceeds 3 meters - the profile is shorter
What if the house has protruding parts (like a basement or porch)?

If you need a length greater than 3 meters: the profiles will have to be overlapped; to do this, cut the top profile so that there is a 9 mm gap between the fastening strips of the joining profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).

Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!

If the base protrudes: everything is simple - the profile needs to be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.

2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner one - this will help save money when installing it yourself. The disadvantage of this solution is that the corner will be less sealed from precipitation - it is better to glue the surface of the wall behind this corner with a strip roll waterproofing(Fig. 7).

Installation of internal corner profiles

On internal corners the profiles are mounted in exactly the same way as on external ones - leave a gap of 3 mm to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the strata profile.

A 6 mm indentation must remain before the protruding element below, if there is one (for example, a protruding plinth).

In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the inner corner profile should not rest against it - there should be a gap of 6 mm.

There are 3 options for making internal corners:

If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles on the internal corners are spliced absolutely identical to the external ones - this is very easy to do with your own hands.

A space of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips (excess vinyl is removed using metal scissors), top panel finds on the bottom by 25 mm. Fasteners are placed every 40 mm, in the center of the mounting holes, fasteners at the highest point are placed in the upper part of the mounting hole.

Installation of opening frames

When installing siding with your own hands, the framing of openings, as a rule, raises the most questions. Let's consider 2 installation options:

Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
The openings are in the niches of the walls

If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.

You must first waterproof the openings!

You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical trims per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, take the length of the side of the opening and increase it by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands are beautifully and imperceptibly connected at the junction points.

The profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):

Make bridge cuts on the top profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
Bend these bridges down - precipitation and moisture should flow along them from the upper profile to the lower one
Remove any pieces of vinyl on the side profiles that interfere with the connection to the top
Connect the top and side profiles (the bent bridges will be inside the profiles)

The lower casing is connected in the same way, only the bridges are cut and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to put them on the lower profile.

If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut pieces of vinyl are folded inside the lower profile or simply removed.

If the framed opening, on the contrary, is recessed, then when installing the near-window profile with your own hands, adhere to the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to the depth of the opening niche, which are folded and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).

In order not to get confused when installing siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tabs - they should always cover the joint of the profiles, so that moisture flows through them and didn't get inside. This logic will help evaluate the correctness of the connection.

Installation of the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands, installing the first panel requires maximum attention, just like installing the starting profile.

We recommend that you start installing siding (especially with your own hands) from the least visible side of the house - in order to get the hang of it and work out possible mistakes.

The panel is inserted into the lock of the starting strip and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave 6 mm of space to the bottom of the lock of the corner profile, in case the dimensions of the panel change (Fig. 13). After this, attach the panel to the sheathing without tension.

Technological indentations must be strictly observed: when installing it yourself in winter, the panel (solid) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).

Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its size, and then winter time will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile if too much space has been left for thermal expansion.

IN summer time year – 6 mm
In winter – 9 mm

Extension of panels

The panels are built up either with an H-profile or with an overlap.

When installing overlapping siding panels with your own hands, trim the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as is the case with profiles) (Fig. 14).

Attach the H-profile in the same way as the external and internal corner profiles - at the top the distance from the soffit is 3 mm, and at the bottom lower it 6 mm below the starting profile. In case of protruding obstacles on the façade, leave a 6 mm gap to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).

The H-profile is built up with an overlap, according to the same principles as internal-external corner profiles.

Installation of other panels

When installing siding yourself, check the siding surface for horizontalness on every third row of panels.

When you reach the opening mark, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove unnecessary part vinyl - you need to cut off the width of the opening from the panel, increased by double the technological indentation of 6 mm.

By removing excess sections of vinyl from the ends of the panel, you will ensure a minimum vertical technological gap of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the lock of the near-window profile if necessary (Fig. 16).

In order for the panels to be securely fastened, “hooks” are needed - you will need a special punch (punch).

IN bottom trim An additional finishing profile is inserted into the opening to level the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and can vary.

Rice. 17: Installing the finishing siding panel on the wall

Further steps when installing siding yourself:

Measure the distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile
Subtract a technological indent of 1-2 mm from this value
Mark the entire siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
Make “hooks” and bend them to front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and snap it into the lock of the finishing profile upwards

Installation of the pediment

Sheathe the perimeter of the pediment, placing the fasteners as follows: the top fastener at the top of the fastening hole, the rest in the center. Both J-profiles and internal corner profiles can be used.

Installing the panels yourself is identical to the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here too.

The amount of space between the siding and the bottom of the lock (gutter):

6 mm – in summer
9 mm in winter

The final (last) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach siding in this way.

The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel

Siding panels – spectacular design facade of the house. Thanks to modern technologies this finishing material can imitate almost any surface - stone, wood, brick. The popularity of such decorative panels due to its low cost, as well as excellent quality characteristics. You can install the siding yourself. This does not require any special skills. Just use the instructions below for installing siding with your own hands for dummies.

The sequence of work when installing siding is almost always the same. Here are the main stages of arranging the facade of a house using this technology:

Installation of decorative panels always begins with the installation of a starting profile. Later it will be completely hidden by the first plate. If the starting profile is not fixed level, then subsequent panels will lie unevenly on the wall, so you need to constantly monitor the correct installation.
Each siding plate is equipped with a special lock, with which it is fixed to the previous one. There is perforation at the top of the panel. It is through these holes that the plate is fastened.
After the wall is completely assembled, the work must be completed by installing the finishing strip.

When installing siding, you should take into account possible linear expansion and contraction of the material due to temperature changes. So that when you change weather conditions the panels did not burst, it is necessary to create temperature gaps. Siding should not be inserted tightly into vertical and corner strips. The head of the screw/nail that secures the plate should not press it tightly against the frame. The panel should be fastened in the middle of the perforation hole, which will ensure its mobility when temperatures change.

There are no specific rules at what temperature to install siding. It is advisable that the temperature outside is at least minus 10 degrees. But the size of the temperature gaps depends on the time of year in which the installation is carried out. In summer, the side gap should be about 10 mm; in winter, it should be increased to 12 mm.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Installation of any siding begins with the assembly of the frame. It can be vertical or horizontal. Most often, a vertical frame is suitable for panels such as shiplap or blockhouse.

Arrangement of a vertical frame

First, draw a vertical line at the corner of the house using building level and prepared plumb lines. Holes are drilled along the line at equal distances on both sides for fastening hangers or mounting brackets into which the metallic profile. Next, the same guide is attached to the opposite corner of the wall and a construction cord is stretched between them. Adhering to the given level, the remaining guides are attached in increments of no more than 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to additionally install frames made of profiles around windows and doors. In these places, near-window strips or casing will be attached. Additionally, reinforcement of the frame will be required in those places where it is planned to install lighting lamps or a split-system motor unit in the future.

Panel assembly

Once the frame is completed, you can begin the sheathing process. Panels different manufacturers have various designs additional elements and fixing locks. But instructions for connecting them usually come with the kit. vinyl siding. However, there are general principles panel fastening:

corner profiles are attached strictly vertically;
fix the siding panels starting from the middle to the edges;
When attaching the plates, the self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are not tightened to the very end.

Helpful advice! To get a gap between the screw and the siding plate, screw it until it stops and then unscrew it one turn.

Assembly begins with the installation of starting and corner strips. Ordinary vinyl panels are subsequently inserted into them. Since corner strips are quite flexible, they can be used to create both obtuse and sharp corners. To obtain an obtuse angle, the bar is pressed down a little, and for an acute angle, it is compressed.

A special H-connector is provided for joining row panels. It is necessary when the length of the plate is not enough to completely cover the wall. You can do without using this element. Then the plates are screwed together with an overlap.

Rules for installing metal siding: instructions

The principle of façade cladding metal siding the same as vinyl. For installation you will need:

internal and external corners;
starting rail;
connection profile;
finishing rail;
platbands.

Installation of metal siding begins from the corner of the building. The first row of panels is attached to the starting rail with a bottom lock. The following rows are secured with the lock of the previous row. This is how the entire wall is gradually covered. The top row is fixed with a finishing strip.

Helpful advice! If during installation it is necessary to lengthen the corner strips, then the upper part should be mounted on the lower part with an overlap of 2-2.5 cm.

Installation instructions for basement siding

For installation basement siding The installation of sheathing will also be required. It is performed by creating the same frame as for the walls. If there is no concrete or tile covering around the house, then the lower ends do not reach the ground by about 7-10 cm. Additionally, before you begin installing the basement siding, you need to check how level the foundation is. To do this, measure the height of the base along the entire perimeter. If the height is the same everywhere, then a starting profile can be used for cladding. But if there are significant differences, then you will have to trim the very first panel.

Usually sides plinth panels stepped, so the protruding parts near the corners will have to be cut off. A straight edge must be inserted into the corner profile. It is also necessary to match the size of the panels and their number with the long wall. The final plate should not be less than 20 cm. The finishing touch can be considered fastening the J-profile around the entire perimeter of the base. It is necessary to protect against moisture.