A DIY soldering iron stand is essential when working with the tool. Factory devices are generally not practical and do not have additional functions, making the work much easier.
Using something as a stand usually results in a burnt table surface, clothing damaged by tin and rosin, and burns on your hands.
Working on your knees is quite inconvenient and time-consuming. The time and material investments required to manufacture the stand are insignificant; the convenience and speed of work compensate for all the efforts required to manufacture the device.
Basic requirements for stands, determined from operating experience:
- the base must be made of a material that does not conduct heat well;
- racks should not be massive;
- the optimal height of the solder bath is no more than 10 mm;
- The soldering iron should lie on a stand with a slight inclination, the tip is raised, the handle is lowered.
The dimensions of the product will depend on the power and size of the soldering iron.
Simple stand option
Figure 1. Diagram of a soldering iron stand for automatic adjustment temperature.
The most common option, produced within an hour. For the base you can use a segment wooden board thickness of at least 15 mm. The width and length are determined by the soldering iron model. The type of wood does not play a big role. It is advisable that the material be dry.
It is advisable to plan or sand the surfaces.
Then you need to bend two posts from steel wire with a diameter of 3 - 4 mm. Usually used welding electrodes, freeing them from the coating and treating them with emery cloth.
The shape of the stands is similar to the letter “M”. The front one should be higher, the middle bend is somewhat narrower, but the soldering iron should lie freely, without fixation. The C-pillar is slightly lower and the curve is wider. The lower ends of the posts need to be sharpened using sandpaper or a file. Then hammer both posts into the board, according to the size of the soldering iron. The soldering iron tip should be in the air and should be located on the front stand a heating element. If a piece of hardwood is used for the base, it is advisable to drill two holes for the posts with a depth of 4-6 mm and then hammer them in.
A bath for flux and solder can be made from an old MBM type capacitor of the required size. Using a hacksaw, you need to cut off the bottom at a height of 5-8 mm and pull it off. The resulting bath must be washed with solvent or alcohol, degreasing it. After drying, the bath needs to be secured to the base, approximately in the middle between the racks. For fastening, you can use a couple of nails or small screws. If you do not have a capacitor, you can use a suitable cap from tin can or any other tin tray. The thickness of the sheet metal should be small, otherwise it will be difficult to melt the solder when working with a low-power soldering iron.
The stand is ready for use.
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Stand with energy saving circuit
The main disadvantage of soldering irons is their long initial warm-up. When working with circuits, soldering is needed periodically, and the soldering iron must be kept on in between, otherwise the work process will be significantly lengthened.
In addition, the soldering iron overheats, the solder and tip oxidize. Simple scheme, installed on a stand for a soldering iron with your own hands, will help maintain the tool at a lower temperature and quickly warm up during use.
To make it you will need:
- diode, maximum forward current according to soldering iron power;
- microswitch with the required current on the contacts;
- socket, cord with plug;
The base for the stand should be slightly larger than in the previous version. It is advisable to place the socket and microswitch on the side of the soldering iron.
Figure 2. Heating controller diagram.
You need to install a diode into the socket body by connecting it to one of the socket sockets; the polarity of the connection is not important. The power cord is connected with one wire to the second socket of the socket, the second to the free input of the diode. The microswitch is connected with normally closed contacts in parallel with the diode.
It is advisable to insulate all connections and the diode with any in an accessible way. The microswitch must be fixed to the base and a movable bracket must be installed to switch it. The soldering iron lying on the stand should press the bracket lever with its weight. The bracket will switch the microswitch, its contacts will open. The soldering iron will be connected to a voltage of 110 V. The power consumed from the network will be halved, and the temperature will drop accordingly.
When you lift the soldering iron, the bracket will rise, the contacts will close, and within a few seconds the soldering iron will warm up to the required temperature.
To monitor the presence of voltage in the socket or on the base, you need to install a voltage indicator (any available).
Typically, when using such a stand, people often forget to turn off the soldering iron when finished.
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Connecting a soldering iron via a bridge
This circuit allows you to somewhat stabilize the operation of the soldering iron during voltage drops and surges in the network. Unlike the option described above, instead of one diode, you need to install a diode bridge with a smoothing electrolytic capacitor at the output. For production you need:
- four diodes with the required forward current rating;
- electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 40.0 μF, voltage 350 V or higher;
- two microswitches or a group of normally closed contacts from a relay;
- socket, power cord with plug;
- mains voltage indicator.
For control you will need two pairs of normally closed contacts. You can use two microswitches or relay contacts open type. The contacts must be covered with a cover made of dielectric material.
One pair of contacts (Fig. 1) disconnects and connects one of the bridge diodes, the second – a capacitor. In the working position, power is supplied to the soldering iron through the bridge and smoothed out by a capacitor, in the non-working position - through one of the bridge diodes.
The design and dimensions of such a stand will depend on the available elements. The main elements are similar to previous versions. You can make a movable bracket for switching contacts from a used relay by removing the core and winding.
Greetings, Samodelkins!
To do this we will need the following tools and materials:
1. Laminate scraps left over after renovation
2. A small piece of 16mm chipboard
3. Clamp for polypropylene pipes
4. Electric jigsaw
5. Wood glue
6. Spray paint. The author used black, but then, in some way, he regretted that he chose such a gloomy color. dark color. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a more cheerful color.
7. Putty
8. Sandpaper
9. USB lamp from a fix-price store
10. 2 alligator clips
11. A pair of small bolts and nuts for them
12. Copper wire
The author begins work on a homemade product. First you need to decide what you are going to store in your homemade product. To determine the size of the future product, he compactly folds what will be stored in a homemade organizer in the near future.
At this stage, he also notes the approximate dimensions of the future product.
Now, but more precisely, he makes a drawing of the workpiece. When making a drawing, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the materials used.
Now the author proceeds directly to making the organizer. First, he cuts the laminate and chipboard to size. Super precision is not needed here, but still try to make the cut as close to 90 degrees as possible. This is what the box should look like.
Next, you need to mark what size the stands for the soldering iron holder should be. The recesses should naturally be higher than the walls of the box, and the stands themselves should be of such length that, when lying down, they fit comfortably in the box, and in one layer. Now you need to cut out a recess for both metal parts. The author does it this way:
After some time, he realizes that this could have been done much easier with a wood crown, and only then cut in half. Well, as they say, a good thought comes to someone else or to ourselves, but late.
This is what ended up happening. All you have to do is tighten a couple of screws and you're done.
Now let's start assembling the box itself. Starts from the bottom. Makes small recesses in advance for the screw heads. Then, in the gluing areas, use sandpaper to remove the entire glossy layer of the laminate. Next is gluing. The author takes a special glue for wood products and glues the wide side walls made of chipboard. When gluing, it is advisable to use clamps. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to secure the entire structure from below with self-tapping screws. Next, check the perpendicularity of the walls. You need to measure the angle between the walls. It should be straight - 90°.
Everything is fine, let's move on. Now this design It has rigidity, so it can be glued and screwed onto screws at the same time. This is what happened.
The author made the lid of the box using a tongue-and-groove connection. It's long and tedious. The author adjusted everything by hand so that it fits tightly enough into one whole. Next he glues all the details. This will be quite enough, since practically no loads are expected on this part of the organizer.
Then you will need sandpaper. It is necessary to use it to sand down all possible irregularities and apply wood putty. Putty is mainly needed to cover the chips on chipboard ends, well, and hide all sorts of jambs that formed during manufacturing. After the putty has hardened, you need to clean it. The same sandpaper will come to the rescue.
Next stage– painting.
It is necessary to paint the box to give it a marketable appearance.
Well, the paint has completely dried and here the author would like to add one point. It was necessary to choose a more cheerful color so that loved ones would not have the desire to take the box away and bury, for example, a hamster in it. Anyway.
Now you can carefully remove the tape from the stand where the hot part of the soldering iron will be. We don't need the smell of burnt paint. If there are adhesive traces left from the tape, you can try to remove them. Or leave it as is. After turning on the soldering iron, the remaining adhesive from the tape on the stand should burn out.
And on the part where the handle will be we put on the original rubber band from the fastener for polypropylene water pipe so that the soldering iron does not slide on the stand.
The mounting of the soldering iron stand itself will be very simple. Nuts are glued into the racks and the whole thing is tightened with bolts with heads to the wall of the box. Here's what we ended up with:
Everything is very simple and practical. If you wish, you can drill several more of the same holes, and if you have more than one soldering iron, then this design feature will be very useful. It will be possible to rearrange the rack under different sizes soldering iron Now the author decided to make a couple of clips in the side wall of the box. They will be used as a third hand for soldering. To make such a design you will need this miracle of Chinese engineering from a fix-price store.
In the store it is positioned as a USB lamp for illuminating a laptop keyboard. It can also be used in conjunction with a power bank, or as a night light. It is better suited as the latter, since, to be honest, its light is so-so, but its flexible leg will be useful to us. You will also need a couple of small screws with mortise nuts.
The topic of stands for soldering irons is covered quite well on our website. How is my stand different from others? — I tried to make it as compact, convenient and functional as possible. Do you want the same? - Please, cut to the chase!
The main feature of this stand is the built-in regulator. It was inconvenient because it constantly got lost and mixed up with another small pile on the table. This one is tightly screwed to the stand, it will never get lost and will not jump around the table.
The new one is better than the old one in that it has smooth adjustment and operation indication. Here is the diagram according to which I assembled the regulator:
Diode bridge - any one that can withstand the mains voltage and the current consumed by the soldering iron. (formula for calculating current - Soldering iron power / Mains voltage) A suitable diode assembly or bridge can be removed from the input circuit of the computer power supply. Instead of a diode bridge, you can use a diode, then the adjustment range will be from 50 to 100%.
It is advisable to install fuse F1, but not necessary.
Switch S1, S2 - Bipolar toggle switch with middle position. In the middle position, the soldering iron is turned off and the HL1 LED will not light up. In the position indicated in the diagram, the power of the soldering iron is regulated by trimming resistor R3; in the opposite position of the toggle switch, the current flows directly to the load, bypassing the regulator.
I made all these changes personally for myself, and it is not necessary to repeat this scheme exactly. There is a suitable diagram you can get from there.
Regulator board:
To cover the regulator's guts from external influences I made the case out of plastic and bent the edges using a hair dryer:
We've sorted out the electronic components of the regulator, now let's move on to creating the components of the stand itself.
In order not to lose various small things and store solders, I made a small box of tin, the corners of which for strength:
The soldering iron support itself is, in my opinion, the most successful design. In order for the soldering iron to hold well in such a stop, when inserting it, its center line must be below the horns of the stop.
When soldering, a device is often necessary, but there is no need to always clutter the table with such devices - just attach an alligator clip to the stand, which is secured with a screw:
To clean the soldering iron tip, I use a metal dishwashing sponge, which will be placed in a box with edges made for it:
Stand base - Rectangular chipboard:
Milled recess for rosin:
I crushed rosin from a jar into the recess and warmed it up. construction hairdryer so as not to sleep:
We begin to attach the above nodes to the base; further comment is unnecessary:
The fastening of the main nodes is completed.
To prevent the stand from rolling on the table, I glued rubber rounds to the back side:
Well, to ensure that everything is in accordance with Feng Shui, we glue identification badges onto the regulator body:
Modern soldering irons are highly efficient popular tools used for tinning and soldering elements, as well as melting solder and then applying it to areas of parts soldered to each other.
A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is quite easy to make and makes using the tool safe and convenient.
All currently produced domestic and foreign manufacturers soldering irons differ in power ratings and their design features, which affects the choice of type, size and shape of the stand.
Rod-type models have ceramic and spiral heaters.
The second option is more practical and durable, but has a fairly long warm-up time. A ceramic soldering iron heats up much faster, but requires careful operation and maximum careful attitude, therefore, a high-quality stand can prevent unwanted shocks or failure of the device.
The material for a traditional stand is also selected taking into account the power indicators of the soldering tool:
- 3-10 W models are used in desoldering the smallest microcircuits;
- devices 20-40 W belong to the category of household and amateur radio;
- devices 60-100 W are most often used in automotive services and are involved in unsoldering thick cables;
- soldering irons 100-250 W are used in sealing dishes; they easily solder radiators and other large-sized metal.
The most powerful soldering irons are bulky tools that require especially reliable and strong stands. A convenient and multifunctional stand makes work safe, and the presence of a voltage regulator prevents overheating of the soldering iron in long work with the device.
When connected to the mains, the device quickly warms up to 250-300 °C, so it is placed on a special stand or inserted into it, and then placed on the edge of the working surface.
How to make a stand for a soldering iron with your own hands?
Today, retail outlets sell simply a huge number of a wide variety of devices, including simple holders and entire complexes called soldering stations. Having a minimum number of tools and materials, as well as a small amount of effort and time, allows you to independently make a convenient and practical, durable stand for a soldering iron of almost any type.
Materials
As the required minimum materials for self-made stands can be considered:
- stable and non-flammable base with legs, made of any materials that are poorly conductive of heat and safe to use;
- supports for laying or inserting a soldering iron;
- a special container filled with rosin (flux).
Simple homemade stand
The most popular auxiliary “options” of the design can be represented by a reliable platform for tinning, a container for solder and a device for cleaning the tip.
When choosing elements that are supposed to be used in making a soldering iron stand with your own hands, preference should be given only to high-strength, non-toxic and durable materials.
Tool
The set of tools may vary depending on the design features of the base and the materials used in working on the structure - a hacksaw for wood and metal, wire cutters, screwdrivers, construction knife, marking and measuring tools.
Simple stand option
The most budget-friendly, simple and widespread, the so-called amateur option, is a design with a metal wire mount for the device. In this case, the conical spring of the holder is fixed on a wooden or ceramic base. Often the wire is replaced with thin metal hangers for clothes.
Homemade mobile structures soldering iron are often made from sheet metal, obtained from a broken computer power supply. This original base is intended primarily for use by people who regularly perform soldering work outside the home. Distinctive feature This model is quite easy to use and functional, as well as its compact size and the ability to transport the base in a small bag or a simple pocket.
Work surface stand
Any most simple coasters may become more convenient if the design is supplemented with some auxiliary elements, represented by a metal sponge for cleaning the tip, a holder for soldering, containers for tin and rosin.
Stand with energy saving circuit
The main disadvantage of a soldering iron is the duration of the initial heating and the need to keep the device turned on even when performing periodic soldering, which has an extremely negative effect on consumption electrical energy. Among other things, overheating of the device is accompanied by oxidation of the tip and solder.
Thanks to the use of a simple circuit that is installed on the base, it is possible to save energy.
For self-production you need to prepare:
- a diode with a maximum forward current corresponding to the power of the device;
- microswitch having the required current on the contacts;
- electrical socket;
- electric cord with standard plug;
- mains voltage indicator.
The socket and microswitch are traditionally located in the side of the base, not far from the soldering iron.
Manufacturing technology:
- installing a diode in the body of the socket;
- connecting a diode to a socket without taking into account polarity;
- connecting the power cord to another socket and free diode input;
- parallel connection of normally closed contacts of a microswitch to a diode;
- insulation of the diode and all connections;
- installation of a microswitch on a movable bracket.
The device, installed on the stand, presses the lever part of the bracket with its weight, which is accompanied by switching the microswitch and opening its contacts. In this case, the power is reduced by half, and the voltage is monitored by an indicator.
As a rule, the operation of a stand with an electrical energy saving circuit requires control of turning off the soldering iron after completion of work.
Connecting a soldering iron via a bridge
This version of the circuit helps to stabilize the operation of an electrical device in conditions of voltage drops and surges in electrical network. In this case, the diode is replaced by a diode bridge with a smoothing electrolytic capacitor at the output.
Materials for production are presented:
- diodes with the required rated direct current values - 4 pieces;
- electrolytic capacitor of 40.0 uF and 350 V or more - 1 piece;
- microswitches or a group of contacts normally closed from the relay - 2 pieces;
- power cord with plug;
- voltage indicator.
Regulator with triac and diode bridge
DIY manufacturing technology:
- cover the contacts with a dielectric cover;
- connect bridge diodes to one disconnected pair of contacts;
- Connect a capacitor to the second pair of contacts.
The operating power position is characterized by voltage supply through the bridge and typical smoothing using a capacitor.
Shape, dimensions and design features models depend on the elements used, and the manufacture of a movable bracket that switches contacts is carried out using a relay, carefully removing the windings and core.
Soldering iron stand with power regulator
A distinctive feature of the design is the presence of a power regulator built into it, which allows you to regulate the heating temperature of the soldering iron.
Materials and tools for manufacturing are presented:
- radio components;
- chipboard sheet;
- high-strength plastic;
- tin elements;
- fasteners and clamps;
- metal sponge;
- rubber parts;
- adhesive composition;
- drill and cutter;
- soldering iron;
- construction hairdryer.
DIY technology for making a soldering iron stand with a power regulator:
- assembling the power control board in accordance with the above diagram;
- manufacturing a plastic blank for the body part of the board using a heat gun;
- production of a tin box with soldered corners;
- making a tin box for a metal brush for cleaning the tip;
- assembly of a stop for an electrical device;
- soldering a bolt to a clamp as a “third hand”;
- production of a stand base from a chipboard sheet;
- cutout on the base using a recess cutter;
- placing rosin melted using a hair dryer in a recess;
- fixation metal box, stand and clamp;
- screwing the board and fixing the case.
On final stage manufacturing, a box for an iron brush is screwed on, and anti-slip rubber feet are also fixed with glue on back side a ready-made stand.
To make the operation of the finished stand as comfortable and safe as possible, it is necessary to mark the adjustment of power indicators on the device board.
Conclusion
At self-assembly multifunctional stand, you must remember that the operation of soldering irons that differ in power indicators is accompanied by a display different meanings on an indicator assembled according to the circuit for measuring the current consumed by the device. This feature is not always convenient to use, so experts recommend replacing the indicator element in the circuit with a voltmeter, and preferring an assembly like KTs405a to a traditional diode bridge.
Basic and auxiliary options of the soldering iron stand
To make the device, you need to use materials that do not heat up very much and practically do not conduct heat. Good Alternative option– this is equipping a homemade stand with special legs. The minimum functionality of the design is:
- convenient support for the device heated during operation;
- the presence of a container for flux, ensuring the comfort of using the soldering iron.
In addition, you can add a number of additional functions yourself, which include:
- Equipping the stand with a platform for tinning.
- Adjusting the power of the device. It can be performed either smoothly using a thermostat, or in stages.
- Installation simple device to remove solder residue from the tip.
- Additional capacity for solder.
How to make a soldering iron stand with your own hands? Below we present some of the most simple ways, from which you can choose the most suitable one for you.
Stand with “third hand” device
This design allows you to work with the soldering iron as comfortably as possible, without wasting effort on holding the soldering iron and the two parts being connected at the same time. It is quite deservedly called the “third hand”. To make it you will need the following available materials and accessories:
- two glasses from decorative candles;
- leg from old table lamp or a small lamp;
- two alligator clips;
- a magnifying glass that will make it much more convenient to work with small details;
- a spring retainer, which you can make yourself from ordinary steel wire;
- wooden base.
The first step is to prepare the basis for the future stand. To do this, we mill three niches in it. The first two will be 
be used for installing candle cups, and the third is for a cleaning cloth that removes solder from the soldering iron. After this, all work is performed in the following sequence:
- We mount the cups in the prepared niches.
- We mount alligator clips onto the flexible lamp rod. It is better to make the distance between them adjustable.
- We install the spiral soldering iron holder in one of the corners of the base.
- We drill holes and screw the rod with clamps to the wooden stand.
- If desired, you can attach a magnifying glass to the top of the “third hand”. Also very often it is made removable or installed on a separate rod.
This stand does not require significant financial investments, but makes working with a soldering iron easier.
Stand with power regulator
In Chinese online stores you can already order ready-made kits for home soldering stations, which are quickly assembled into a system for adjusting and monitoring the power of the tool. You can also make a regulator yourself, using components such as:
- a constant resistor with a nominal value of 4.7 Ohms (in the diagram - R2);
- a variable resistor, through which the power will be adjusted (up to 500 Ohms, R1);
- 0.1 microfarad capacitor (C1);
- dinistor DB3 (VD3);
- triac BTA06-600 (VD4);
- diode 1N4148 (VD1);
- LED that will light up when power is turned on (VD2).
How to make a soldering iron power regulator out of all this? The answer to this question can be found in the diagram below.
You can make the board yourself. Holes for parts are drilled in it and conductive paths are made.
If you have minimal experience working with printed circuit boards, making the regulator will not be difficult. You can install it directly on the soldering iron stand. If you plan to use the device at a power higher than 100 W, you will need to use aluminum radiator, which will remove excess heat from the triac.
A soldering iron with a power regulator will allow you to work with small parts and LEDs, and will provide the ability to customize the device to suit your needs. In addition, it will help reduce the load on the device and extend its service life.
The stand itself in this case can be made from rectangular cuttings of boards or chipboard. Using self-tapping screws, a steel plate is screwed onto it, curved in the form of an inverted letter “P” with cutouts for installing a soldering iron. Additionally, you can install containers for rosin and solder (the same cups from decorative candles).