Homemade mount for an angle grinder. Grinder cutting machine: how to make a convenient tool with your own hands

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And yet, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, during welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place begins to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.

I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.

But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...

And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a cutting machine stationary machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.

What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Cutting a water pipe DN32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.

So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. In purchased versions, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder in three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with a tight fit of the frame to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:

I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:

And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:

At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:

After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:

Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used wide masking tape as a marking:

After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:

I put one inside the other:

I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:

And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:

Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, he burned it with an electrode outer pipe so as to weld it from the inside:

Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:

Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:

I made the rods that will be attached to the angle grinder carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. Optimal length I calculated them experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:

All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:

At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:

Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:

I attached the entire structure to this sheet:

I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.

After that I welded it in the corners vertical racks from the same pipe, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.

At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes of short length, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, provide incredible rigidity! ...

I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.

So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:

After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)

By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, the heads of all mounting bolts with reverse side I boiled, melted and cleaned to get a smooth circular table:

For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I was just “fallen” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))

But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.

After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.

I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.

Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.

I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:

I welded it.

And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:

Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:

I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.

Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:

I made the handwheel handle from a furniture bolt and put a metal tube on it.

I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:

When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.

Next, I started making the protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.

First I made a template out of cardboard.

One of the most popular household tools is (“Bulgarian”), which very often becomes an indispensable tool for installation, repair and construction work for fast cutting of metals, stones and other structural materials. Thanks to various replaceable attachments, the scope of use of the grinder is not limited to peeling, grinding and cutting materials, but additional DIY accessories for grinders , greatly facilitate all operations with expanded installation capabilities.

Popular accessories for grinders

Exists a large assortment attachments and devices that transform the grinder into multifunctional machine, which allows you to perform a number of additional operations:

Pendulum saw, which makes it easier to saw and trim structural materials of any strength. Due to the convenient pendulum design and the support on the table of the device, accurate sawing of the material is ensured with minimal effort, because the pressure is provided by the weight of the saw itself.
With your own hands you can create a device for an angle grinder that expands its functions to stationary sharpening machine . Moreover, you can use both flat nozzles with an emery coating for roughing or polishing parts, and homemade nozzle, providing reliable fastening grinding wheel(stone).
It’s quite easy to create from an angle grinder stationary or manual circular saw , which allows you to unravel lumber to specified sizes along or across the wood grain.
Engineering approach and opportunity self-made Various accessories and attachments make it possible to use an angle grinder as an electric drive on drilling, milling and even small-sized lathes. Moreover, such equipment based on an angle grinder can be created with your own hands and non-stationary, using homemade devices.

Simple tools for an angle grinder with your own hands

For quick cross-cutting of metal and wooden measuring materials in everyday life, a stationary pendulum cutting machine is often not enough circular saw, on which absolutely any cutting wheels or saws can be installed. This machine is excellent not only for sawing corners, channels, fittings, and wooden blocks, but also copes well with the task of processing stone and ceramic materials, which allows it to be used for “jewelry cutting” of facing tiles.

Do-it-yourself accessories for an angle grinder are quite easy to assemble, because you only need to fulfill a few conditions:

For the manufacture of a cutting device It is not recommended to use an angle grinder with a power of less than 600 W and the standard size of the cutting wheel is less than 125 mm. At the same time, the quality of the electrical appliance itself will directly affect specifications and the service life of the assembly, therefore it is recommended to use angle grinders only from a proven quality manufacturer.
Without knowledge of the basics of engineering vision and the principles of constructing devices for strength, the assembled cutting installation may not be safe to operate, therefore, in the absence of skills self-assembly simple units should not be experimented with. It is better to turn to professional assemblers and locksmiths.
To assemble a tool for an angle grinder with your own hands, you need to have suitable construction materials and tools: lightweight metal corners, channels, strips or strong wooden blocks, bolts, nuts, a set of plumbing and electromechanical tools.

Video - Do-it-yourself stand for an angle grinder

Assembling a pendulum saw from a grinder

The do-it-yourself device for an angle grinder is a stationary frame with a pendulum-type hinge and quick fastening the Bulgarian herself. Manufacturing of the device is carried out in the following sequence:

Assembling a table with a thrust element for cutting material: Both wood and metal can be used. You can take any workbench or table as the base, and the stop bar is attached at the side edge so that the future saw passes as close as possible to the table wall.

Attention!!! Increasing the distance of the cutting point from the fence causes leverage torque, which can result in an uneven cut or clamp. cutting element with emergency manifestations.

Therefore, the thrust pad is installed a little larger and the excess edge is cut off immediately after assembly by the device itself.

Installation of a hinge behind the thrust bar, which can be easily made from a suitable canopy or by selecting a stud with nuts and washers. A structure made of any metal or strong wood in the form of a handle must be attached to the hinge with the grinder itself attached to it.
A device for attaching an angle grinder can be made with your own hands based on two design principles:

In the form of clamps that are attached to the pendulum handle and attract the body of the angle grinder. You can use both purchased clamps and those made independently in the form of overhead strips and tightening bolts.
Rigid fastening due to bolts screwed into the holes of the angle grinder for attaching the handle. Fastening the bolts in two different planes makes it possible to accurately position the grinder in space, which allows you to fundamentally change the design of the device by making a saw with a protractor. Additionally installed devices adjustments in different planes allow cutting materials under different angles, and the adjusting protractor can be made both on the pendulum itself and on the thrust table.

The grinder is a useful and versatile tool. It is suitable for cutting metal, stone, tiles and grinding surfaces. However, sometimes there are situations in which a stationary machine is more suitable for this type of work. It’s good that using certain accessories for an angle grinder, you can turn it, for example, into a cutting machine!

Grinder machines

Finding a ready-made machine that meets your needs in stores is not difficult. However, the likelihood of finding a design that rigidly fixes the angle grinder and does not move during operation is not great, since they are all made of duralumin. For this reason, people who have machines improve or remodel them in every possible way. But there are many serious obstacles here - the materials of the machine are difficult to weld, or, for example, the design does not take into account points that are important for you - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is more difficult task than making your own!

Purchased version of the grinder holder

Making your own simple device for an angle grinder can be done with minimal costs and within a few hours! In fact, the structure will be a long metal pipe, which is both a frame and a handle. At one end, a transverse metal strip is welded, which has two holes for fastening the grinder.

A more reliable homemade version of the grinder holder

From the same edge, the pipe is attached to a small piece of angle on the movable shaft. The corner itself can be attached to the desktop or to the floor! A spring should be fixed on the opposite side of the fastener, returning the entire structure to its original position.

first option

second manufacturing option

third manufacturing option

That's all - the manufacture of the machine is completed, all that remains is to properly secure the angle grinder. Naturally, this option should be used for simple work, and if precise and complex procedures are required, then the design should be more complex.

Making a cutting machine from a grinder for precision work!

Devices for grinders such as cutting machines are made using the following materials and tools: steel angle, profile pipe, metal sheet under the platform (chipboard can be used), welding machine, channel, drill, shaft, several bearings, small diameter pipe, spring, relay and pedal. Welding, in principle, can be replaced with strong bolts - here you will have to use a drill.

It is worth noting that with this implementation of the machine, it can be easily disassembled if such a need arises.

first design option

Parts and fasteners

We start making the machine from the frame. Each grinder will require an individual design, since each manufacturer produces grinders own design– in some cases you will have to remove the handle, and in others you will need to invent a stand for the entire grinder as a whole! In addition, different frames are needed for different disc diameters.

Frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames and common axis. The lower frame must be fixed on top of a metal or chipboard platform. For a large grinder, it is better to use metal. It is necessary to ensure rotation of the upper frame on which the angle grinder is attached relative to the lower frame in a vertical plane, like a pendulum. To fix the starting position, you will have to use a spring. A fastener should be welded onto the lower frame, which includes a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

Second design option

Ruler - for this particular case, you can use a movable ruler with a limiter, which is welded onto the tube. It adjusts the accuracy of the size, after which it is secured using an end screw!

Electronics. To increase the usability of your machine, you need to provide such things as a start pedal or button (switching using a 12 V low-voltage relay). Using this pedal, voltage will be supplied to the grinder.

Video of do-it-yourself tools for an angle grinder

With the help of such a simple device for an angle grinder, we can free our hands, and at the same time make an accurate, even cut without using a vice, and saving time on measurements also plays a role important role. With this design it can be replaced cut-off saw on metal, and if suddenly necessary, the grinder can be easily dismantled.

An angle grinder or grinder makes life easier at work and at home. With its help, you can file a sharp corner, cut off a protruding part of a profile or pipe, make a hole in a tile, etc. It is inconvenient to hold the instrument in your hands all the time. Your hands get tired, and the cut turns out uneven. To make your work easier, we present you a few homemade options cutting machines with holder and bed, which can be made from scrap metal.

Bed for an angle grinder made of profiled pipes and shock absorbers

The grinder is quite a heavy and powerful tool, so the frame to hold it suspended must be strong. Profiled metal pipes provide such strength. Making a holder for an angle grinder from wood is allowed only from thick lumber. However, even in this case, it is impossible to guarantee that the structure will withstand the load. When working with profiled metal pipes you will need a welding machine and skills to operate the equipment. Besides grinder and the welding machine, also prepare for work:

two rear used shock absorbers from the car;
pipes that match the diameter of the shock absorbers for crimping;
profile pipes and metal square corners 25 mm for collecting the base;
two brands 35×25 mm to stiffen the base;
two 40 mm corners for vertical supports;
metal plates for fixing shock absorbers 190×75×5 mm;
square corner 45 mm L=120 mm for connecting the angle grinder with shock absorbers;
12 mm automotive nuts and bolts for tightening the plates.

Before starting work, we are working on a drawing of the future frame. To make it easier for you to do this and avoid typical mistakes When making a design, we recommend that you look at the analogue in the store. Inspect the bolt fastenings, the location of the supporting elements and other parts. It is advisable to be guided by the principle of assembling the frame specifically for your model of angle grinder. After familiarization, all that remains is to transfer the dimensions and make a drawing on paper.

A distinctive feature of this design is the extension of the holder. As a result, we will get an improved version pendulum saw with the ability to adjust the holder not only down and up, but also forward. To bring this idea to life, you will need a pair of old car shock absorbers.

Since the walls of the shock absorbers are thin, and they will bear the main weight of the structure, it is necessary to give them strength. To do this, take a pipe of a suitable diameter and cut the crimps. We drill holes of a suitable diameter in the metal plates for tightening the holders with car bolts, and weld cut pipe clamps to them.

Let's move on to assembling the base. Its dimensions are 46.5x40 cm. In order not to waste money on buying new pipes and angles, we will use scrap metal; anyway, after assembly, the parts will be painted. The back of the base consists of two 25x25 mm squares, and the front of one. Two corners of the same section are welded on the sides. With a space of 10 mm from the side parts, we fix the 35x25 mm tees. To the back of the base we weld two 40 mm corner posts 32.5 cm long at a distance of 9.2 cm from each other. From the inside of the vertical corners we drill holes for fastening the holders. We connect the racks to each other with a plate, which is welded to the right angles of the supports.

The body is ready, we begin to assemble the machine. First we fix everything on the wire. We check the correct assembly of the structure, the quality of the cut and, if necessary, adjust it. If everything suits you, you can move on.

To make it easier to adjust the forward stroke of the holder, cut out a corner of a suitable length (in the photo) and make the corresponding holes in it. The offset at the ends of the shock absorbers is fixed with a threaded rod and nuts.

To fasten the angle grinder, we make a fastening element, the parts of which are welded together. It is fixed on threaded fasteners, it is easy to remove and replace if necessary, change the diameter of the disk. Dimensions are selected individually according to the angle grinder model. Finished part attached with outside shock absorber corner.

After cutting, all parts are painted. To hold the position of the holder with the tool in a horizontal position, in addition to the upper crimp of the shock absorber and the frame, we attach fasteners for a pin with a diameter of 8 mm. The return movement of the pendulum is provided by a door spring, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

We left 1 cm gaps between the side corners and tees for a reason. We will need this space to move the work table. Taking into account the width of the corners and the gap, we make holes on the sides of the table for the adjusting bolts. We paint and attach the table to the base. If you need to move work surface, slightly unscrew the bolts and change the position of the table forward or backward. Additionally, for ease of cutting metal, we recommend making guides at 90 and 45 degrees.

Cutting machine with pendulum arm made of cross shaft

To assemble the frame part and the pendulum holder you will need profile pipes, and for the cantilever mounting you will need additional steel strips and a metal rod. The stand, which will also serve as a working platform, is made from a sheet of steel. We weld a transverse shaft to the pendulum arm from a section of a profile pipe, keeping it perpendicular when fastening. As bearings that will ensure the rotation of the pendulum, we use ready-made bearing units. We press them onto the shaft from both sides. The connection must be rigid, otherwise unexpected longitudinal or transverse displacement may occur. When the bearings are pressed in, we retreat 5–6 cm from the edge of the stand and weld the assembled pendulum with the support units.

We make a U-shaped bracket from a steel strip. This will be the bracket holding the gearbox housing of the angle grinder. To fasten the case, we drill holes in it for bolts on the sides and in the middle. We bend a horseshoe-shaped clamp from a steel bar and make a clamping bar to secure the tool body to the pendulum. It is a metal plate 1.5–2 cm longer than the width of the clamp. We insert threaded fasteners into the holes along the edges of the pressure plate, securing them with nuts. We try on the finished U-shaped bracket and clamp for the angle grinder. Using welding or threaded connections, we attach the parts to the console.

We weld a console with a clamp and a U-shaped angle grinder mount onto the pendulum arm, choosing the appropriate position for the tool. There are different opinions on how to attach the angle grinder - from yourself or to yourself. Considering that medium or small angle grinders are used for domestic needs, we install the rotation disk “from ourselves”. This will allow you to have better control over the accuracy of your cut. For security reasons, do not forget to lock protective cover. Based on the weight of the angle grinder, we select a suitable return spring. After assembling the machine, we test it. We do the first check in idle mode. There should be no vibrations, extraneous noise or play. If there are problems, we fix them. Next, take a cutting wheel with maximum thickness, which you use for work, and cut a groove for the disk with the machine. If necessary, the gap can always be widened.

The final stage is the installation of a stop for metal and wooden blanks. As a rule, two main stops are installed - for cutting at 45 and 90 degrees. The strips can be welded, but it is better to fix them on threaded connection. Such structures can be easily removed and changed. Additional detail, which will make your work easier, will also be a limiter with a measuring ruler. It is enough to fix a metal ruler on the stop and the process of measuring and cutting workpieces with millimeter accuracy will never be a problem for you.

Then your imagination works. You can also equip the machine with protractors, vices and clamps. These grinder attachments allow you to make a cut or groove in the workpiece at any angle. Finally, don’t forget to paint the machine to give it a finished look and protect it from the “web of rust.”

The simplest stand with a holder made from a water pipe and corners

If the previous ideas for stands for angle grinders seemed too complicated for you, we offer you another one that is as simplified as possible, but no less convenient option. To make it you will need corners different sizes, water pipe, metal scraps, as well as bolts and nuts for fastenings. Let's start the analysis with the platform. Its size is selected individually according to the complexity of your work and the dimensions of the workpieces. In our example, the dimensions of the metal platform are 40x27 cm. To give it rigidity and prevent slipping, we screw it to the table at the corners with self-tapping screws, and also strengthen the stand by welding the corners under it.

To attach the holder to the platform, we fix a 50x50 mm corner equal to the width of the stand. We weld another corner of the same section with a height of 17 cm to it in a vertical position.

After that, we move on to the holder itself. We find an old water pipe or other pipe with a diameter of about 25 mm, measuring its length in accordance with the dimensions of the platform and the angle grinder. To secure the cutting wheel on it along with the tools themselves, we weld two metal plates 5 cm wide and 9.5 cm long to the holder. On the edge of the pipe we weld a nut to secure the side handle, which needs to be removed from the angle grinder. This will make it easier for you to lower and raise the stand.

Separately, I would like to talk about another attachment of the holder to the vertical corner. To form a plane, we also weld a piece of a 30x30 mm corner to the stand corner and pipe. We add mobility and reliability to the connection of the holder with the frame in this part using an M-8 bolt, clamping it on the reverse side with a nut and a locknut. When raising and lowering the structure in this part of the rack, the bolt is clamped and firmly fixes the selected position of the angle grinder.

The protective casing of the angle grinder is quite rigid, which allows you to make fastenings in it. On one part we fix the plates with bolts, and on the other we make an additional attachment point for the bracket, screwing it to the place where the handle was removed. We cut the bracket 4 cm wide and 16 cm long with a small angular bevel, also about 4 cm.

The main part of the rack is assembled, all that remains is to take care of the ease of use. As in previous versions, we screw a stop from a 50x50 mm corner to the platform. For better visibility during cutting, a small upper part of the corner from the edge can be cut off. Now it will be convenient for you to clamp the workpiece with a clamp and make an even cut. Also, do not forget to paint the machine or coat the metal with enamel to improve its aesthetic appearance and extend its service life.

Many individuals try to do universal machines for do-it-yourself grinders, which will involve various components that will allow you to increase the abilities of an angle grinder many times over, but not everyone succeeds. The main differences between these models:

presence/absence of a frame - a massive metal, wooden plate or frame;
feeder (carriage) for tool or material – forward/backward;
the presence of a transmission unit - belt drive on rollers;
nodes for tilting, shifting material or angle grinders at a certain angle;

We will try to cover different devices and tell you about most of them. The designs of some devices have been developed recently and have not yet been published on the World Wide Web.

The simplest model

She presents a do-it-yourself grinder holder. It serves to make it easier to work with the tool and is necessarily made of metal or metal + textolite. Wooden model such a unit will not withstand the loads and will shatter into pieces.

The device itself consists of different-sized plates fastened together:

welding if the device is made of metal;
screws (bolts) if metal and textolite are used.

The first plate serves as a kind of mobile platform and is made of duralumin, aluminum or steel 2-3mm sheet 35*12 (15) cm. It can be made of textolite, but then you will have to take out a 5-6 mm piece.

The second plate represents the stop. It must be made from a 4 (or more) mm piece of steel 125 * 50 (60) mm. It bears the main load, so you should not take thin material, to avoid injury.

On one half of the plate, make 3-4 holes with your own hands using a 4.2-4.5 mm drill to secure it to the platform, and in the middle of the second half - one with an 8 mm drill. Holes are also made in the platform itself and drilled on the reverse side for countersunk screws.

Instead of the second plate, you can use a regular 4 mm corner of approximate dimensions and drill it accordingly. Then the plate (angle) is screwed or welded to the main platform so that the cutting disk of the tool is 3-5 mm from the edge of the bed.

The corner is bent at 60° to the frame. The cutting power tool is secured to its upper part with a bolt and a lock nut, which is necessary to avoid turning the bolt during inevitable vibration during work. The device is assembled and ready for use.

Additional nodes for the device

First option

To make work easier and more precise cutting (along the line), the device is supplemented with two metal squares and two wooden blocks, the dimensions of which are:

30*30*420 mm;
55*30*80 mm;
27*30*35 mm;
120*60*25 mm respectively.

Measure 12 cm from the end of the long square and bend it with the letter “G”. Corresponding holes are drilled in it and in the main platform, which are drilled out for countersunk screws. Combine the square and the plate, place bars on it and screw it in with screws.

Advice: To make operation easier, install an additional handle

Second option

They use a homemade universal limiter-guide, which they make themselves from the following parts:

2 metal strips 75-100 cm;
1 square 30-70 cm;
2 roller units from drawers.

It goes like this:

The drawer guides are attached to the main platform.
Screw 2 strips on top, making sure that their ends are equidistant from the main plate.
A square is attached to the ends of the strips, bending down.

To fix the roller assemblies, use ordinary clamps or a special screw clamp. It consists of a metal plate 5-8 mm long with the main platform, 5-8 cm wide and 5-6 cm screw (bolt) M5-M8.

a recess or hole is drilled in the middle of the frame and a tap is used to make a thread for an M8-M10 screw about 10 cm long;
screw it in from below;
the retainer in the middle is “perforated” with a drill 0.5-1 mm larger than the caliber of the screw;
put it on the screw, placing it on the moving elements of the roller mechanism;
secure with a wing nut or regular nut.
This grinder machine can be used to cut large objects: doors, panels.

DIY cutting machine

For sawing small-sized parts, channels, angles, pipes, fittings, a homemade pendulum cutting machine is used. If you use the appropriate stones, you can use them to polish things, cut tiles, and ceramics.

Cutting machine made by hand from the parts described below:

bed - made of thick metal and four angles:
racks for the rolling unit, made of the same metal;
a swinging mechanism on which the grinder is mounted;
a guide made from a piece of square;
handles (for convenience) and a lowering limiter for the swing unit.

The bed is a plate (metal at least 5 mm) with slots. Ordinary angles are welded or screwed as legs. If you don't have the appropriate piece, take several strips of thick metal and attach them to the corner legs. Then you won't have to make any cuts.

The stands are made of profile pipes, but it’s easier to screw rectangular metal plates 10 mm or larger, drill holes in them on the side and insert the swing unit on the axis. It is used as a long bolt with a nut and a locknut.

The swing unit is made from strips screwed together, or a blank is cut out of a sheet. At a distance of one third of the length, a 10 mm axle or a long bolt is fixed. At the rear, a smaller axle or ring for the return spring is strengthened. The handle and attachment point for the angle grinder are connected to the front

Advice: To avoid accidental injury, weld this assembly securely with your own hands/

The stop and guide stop are ordinary pieces of squares. The first one is welded from below to the swing unit. The emphasis is installed on the bed. A ring for the return spring is welded to the back.

But such a cutting machine is a little dangerous. You have to hold the part in it with one hand and press the handle with the other. For safe work either two people are needed (one holds the product, the second presses the handle) or the installation of a regular vice on the bed.

Cutting parts at an angle

With the design described above, it is impossible to perform other operations, for example, cutting a part at the desired angle or cutting a part to a certain size. Simple modifications will turn the cutting machine into a universal machine.

For cutting at an angle, you can use 2 types of devices:

Stationary – rigidly fixed.
Universal swivel device.

The first of them is easy to make from several ordinary squares. They are screwed onto the frame at a strictly defined angle to the cutting axis, serving as a kind of guides for the parts to be cut.

The second one is more difficult to make. It's actually a rotating device. It is usually made in the shape of a circle, but a square can also be used. It is fixed on the main frame. A hole with an M10 thread is made in it and a bolt is screwed in from below, which acts as an axis.

Put a circle on the bolt and tighten it with a nut with a stopper or a lock nut so that the gap is at least 0.5 mm. Some kind of clamp, corner (guide) or vice is installed on the circle. The latter option is preferable due to the versatility of the vice.

Three options have been developed for fixing the angle when turning:

Hole-locking.

A series of holes are made in the circle at commonly used angles. They install and drill another one directly through the disk in the frame (closer to the tool disk), the second through the hole opposite. Then use a tap to make an M8-M10 thread or leave it as is (for cotter pin inserts).

Device operation:

scrolling the disk, we combine the holes of the circle and the frame;
We tighten bolts (screws) with a wing head into them or insert a cotter pin.

Using special slots and clamps.

Has great potential. You can rotate it with your own hands to any angle 20° -160°. It differs from the first by the presence of special semicircular slots in the disk.

Using swivel or cap bars.

The versatility of the third option is obvious. It turns around 360 degrees. If necessary, you can completely rotate the circle with the vice and the cut piece around the axis several times.

The circle is clamped with ordinary metal strips. 4 screws (bolts) M8-M10 are screwed into the frame from below, secured (for reliability) with nuts. Two of them, located near the instrument, are considered main.

The strips are installed on the circle, making sure that the bolts fit into their holes.
Nuts are tightened onto the main screws. As soon as the nut reaches the bar, make another one or two turns and lock it with a lock nut.
The remaining two screws are screwed with wings.

Working with a clamp is like this. Twist the wings, freeing the slats. Remove them from the thread and move them apart. Unfold the circle, throw it on and clamp the slats. An extra turn of the nut ensures reliable clamping of the circle.