Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own lathe on metal. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to purchase a simple tabletop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.
A homemade lathe is quite possible
Using a lathe
A lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts made of different materials, including from metal, allows you to manufacture products various forms and sizes. Using such a unit, you can turn the outer and inner surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut the outer or internal thread, perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.
A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.
Such equipment processes parts with a round cross-section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. IN similar devices the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.
Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts so that processing is carried out with extreme precision and best quality execution.
An example of a homemade lathe with drawings
Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for the assembled on our own lathe, quite high quality which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.
Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas This machine fits perfectly.
Appearance machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
Guide shafts Caliper design Engine drive
Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3
Structural units
Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - bed, two centers - driving and driven, two headstocks - front and rear, spindle, support, drive unit - electric motor.
All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main load-bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.
It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.
A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even not very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large workpieces, which will lead to its shutdown and, possibly, failure.
Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.
Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.
Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.
There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, driving and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.
In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands using wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity The frame of the lathe is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.
When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.
To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.
Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip it with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.
It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors power from 800 W. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.
If you are going to make your own mini-machine for metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.
If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.
The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.
In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.
Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos, demonstrating the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.
The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely secured to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden blocks.
The video below shows the process of making a lathe support yourself.
We propose to build a metal lathe with your own hands smooth adjustment spindle rotation speed.
To create such a small metal lathe, you will need spare parts from various faulty power tools.
The machine has small sizes and a powerful engine.
The manufacture of the speed controller will be shown in step 5.
The video below shows a miniature metal lathe in operation at various speeds. The coupling causes vibration, which becomes greater as the number of revolutions increases.
There is another video in step 9.
Step 1: Materials
You will need some specialized components for a homemade mini metal lathe.
The main ones are produced by Bosch Rexroth: mechanical aluminum profile element, bolts, washers, end caps. The aluminum profile has a cross-section of 45*90 mm and a length of 350 mm.
Support blocks can be purchased from VXB.COM. Part number WH12A.
Bearings 608ZZ are also available on the same site. For our project, it is desirable to use angular contact roller bearings, but ball bearings will also work.
Soft motor coupling with rubber spider from PrincessAuto.com. Electric motor 12 V direct current– from a cordless trimmer from Black & Decker. Speed Control Switch for Milwaukee 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Drill.
The remaining necessary materials for a home metal lathe will be indicated as they appear in the instructions.
Step 2: Making supports
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The internal diameter of the support blocks is 20 mm. You need to drill them to 22mm under outside diameter bearings. This can be done using hand drill or drilling machine.
The bearings are flush mounted on one side of the blocks and secured with screws to the blocks.
As a quill on the rear support we use a conical drill bit with a diameter of 12 mm, which will rotate along with the workpiece. The diameter of the quill clamping shank is 6 mm. In order for the quill to be tightly inserted into the inner ring of the bearing, the diameter of which is 8 mm, we use a copper adapter tube.
A flexible coupling half with a pin with a diameter of 8 mm is installed in the support on the drive side. Cut an M8 thread in the hole of the coupling half, screw in the stud and secure with two hex nuts. You may need to adjust the length of the shaft by installing additional washers on the stud. Then insert the free end of the stud into the bearing and tighten it with a self-locking nut. Try to assemble the knots as neatly as possible.
Step 3: Assembling the machine
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Place the assembled support blocks and corner supports for the motor on the profile base.
Use a metal plate as a motor mount. Drill a hole in it for the motor shaft, as well as holes for attaching to the motor and to the corner supports. Because Since the motor shaft is smaller than the hole in the second coupling half, wrap a strip of aluminum foil around the shaft and place the coupling half on it. Next, install a rubber cross between the coupling halves, secure the motor and the bearing support block of the drive to the base frame.
Secure the rear support block to the frame with bolts.
Install two additional corner supports between the support blocks. They will be used as a tool rest. The ends of the profile base can be closed with special end caps.
Step 4: Making a 3-jaw chuck
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For making 3-jaw chuck Soldering or welding skills required.
For the base of the cartridge you will need a washer of increased diameter with a 6 mm hole. You also need a nut with an M8 thread and a 12 mm long set screw. Screw the set screw into the nut so that the chamfer of the bolt protrudes and can be used to line up the holes in the washer and nut. They should not move relative to each other. Solder or weld them together. Remove the set screw and turn the resulting assembly over.
Place an M12 hex in the center of the washer and install three M8 hex nuts along the three faces of the M12 nut.
Solder or weld the M8 nuts to the washer and remove the M12. Clean the soldering (welding) areas from slag and file the seams. Prime and paint the cartridge black (optional).
Screw in three M8 clamping screws 12 mm long. You now have a three jaw chuck. Before work on desktop machine Tighten the clamping screws completely, otherwise the workpiece may be torn off when working at high speed.
Step 5: Making a Speed Controller
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To make a regulator, you will need a regulator button from a cordless power tool. It is advisable to find a button without a power lock.
Assemble the adjusting mechanism as shown in the photo. Parts for its manufacture can be found in scrap metal. You can use a clamp as the basis for the adjustment mechanism.
Look at the regulator. You may notice that in addition to the thick red and black wires, there are also thin wires going to it. For the regulator to operate, 3.6 V power must be connected to the thin red and black wires. For this purpose, we will add a 3.6 V lithium-ion battery connected with the positive pole to the black wire and the negative pole to the red wire (reverse polarity). The switch-regulator works like this: the harder you press it, the higher the speed of rotation of the rotor.
The switch has a lever for switching the direction of rotation. You need to choose a direction so that the cartridge is screwed onto the thread of the stud when rotating, otherwise it will simply unscrew when the machine is running.
To make a regulator, use a square piece aluminum profile Bosch Rexroth, several M8 bolts and a lever made from metal scraps by welding or soldering (see photo). Glue the switch to the profile. Adjustment is carried out using threaded connection M8. When screwing, the control button is gradually pressed, and the speed of rotation of the engine rotor increases, and when unscrewing, the button is gradually released, and the speed decreases. When the button is fully pressed, the power supply to the electric motor is stopped.
The battery compartment for the 3.6V Li-Ion battery can be found in various devices where such a cell is used as a backup power source, such as a motion sensor.
The wires from the power supply are connected to the bottom of the regulator (the same place as the thin control circuit wires). The motor is connected to the terminals on the top of the regulator.
Step 6: Select a power source
To operate the machine, you will need a voltage of at least 10 V. To do this, you need to select a suitable power source, for example, 12 V. You can connect a 12-volt battery if there is no power supply, but it will not be enough for for a long time work.
For safety, close protective covers rotating parts of the machine.
In the photo you can see an aluminum part processed using a file. The part was turned at low speed without cooling. The cutting tool stop is an M6 bolt installed in the corner supports.
If the coupling connection is poorly balanced, the machine will have a lot of vibration and will need to be firmly mounted on the workbench.
Step 7: Constructing a Dual Axis Tool Holder
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As a base, take a steel blank measuring 125*25*3 mm.
You will also need M8 bolts: two 150 mm long and one 200 mm long with threads along the entire length.
Eleven M8 nuts are also needed.
Drill out the threads of the 8 nuts with an 8mm drill bit. On 4 nuts, grind off one of the edges a little. Place 3 drilled nuts on the two 150mm bolts and thread one threaded nut on each. Place the two drilled nuts onto the 200mm bolt.
Place all the bolts and nuts on the steel base as shown in the photo. The bolts should be as parallel to each other as possible. Make sure the two middle nuts on each of the two outer bolts have their ground edge facing the base plate. There is no need to solder these 4 nuts, because... they will move freely on the bolts (sliding nuts). Solder (weld) the outer 6 nuts to the plate.
Remove the central 200mm bolt. Take another nut, grind off one edge a little and solder this nut with the edge opposite to the grinded one in the center of a steel square plate (see photo).
Place this square plate in the center of our structure with the nut facing down, then insert the 200mm bolt back into the nut on the square plate. The bolt must be inserted from left to right so that the free thread of the bolt is on the right side.
Center the top plate on the outermost bolts, then slide the slide nuts under the corners of that plate and carefully solder them to the plate, being careful not to solder them to the bolts.
Make sure the square plate moves freely over the bolts. It may move stiffly at first until the slag falls off.
The outer bolts are not welded to the base, but are held on by threads. This is done so that they have a slight play, which will allow the top plate to move more freely if the bolts were not installed sufficiently parallel.
Cut the ends of the outer bolts flush with the outer bolts. There is no need to cut the middle bolt; it will serve as a feed screw.
The entire manufacturing process outlined above in this step must be repeated for M6 bolts. You will need 6 slide nuts, two 60mm long bolts and one 75mm long bolt with full length threads.
Drill out 6 nuts with a 6mm drill. On 4 nuts, grind off one of the edges a little. Place 2 sliders on each 60mm bolt and thread one on.
Place 2 sliders on the 75mm bolt.
Place and align the bolts and nuts on the top square plate perpendicular to the M8 bolts. Make sure that the ground edge is facing the surface of the plate. Carefully weld the 6 end nuts without disturbing the slide nuts.
Remove the central bolt and grind its head.
Cut the end bolts flush with the soldered nuts.
Place an M6 threaded nut in the center between the outer bolts and insert the center bolt through this nut with the head facing away from you and the free threaded end facing you. This will be the top feed screw.
Take another steel square plate the same size as the previous one. Drill a hole in the center of this plate and chamfer it. Center the plate on the top slide. Move the sliding nuts until there is approximately 6mm between them.
Weld the center nut through the hole in the plate. Try moving the feed screw. It should move freely. Then weld or solder the side sliders. Check the slip.
Weld 4 small head bolts at the corners of the top plate.
Fabricate an aluminum plate with four holes along the edges that fit over and screw onto the bolts on the top steel plate. Cutting tool clamped between the top steel and aluminum plates.
The feed screws should be securely locked but not overtightened. For the lower feed screw, use a lock nut and a sleeve (extended nut): screw them on, pull them together, then drill a thin hole in the sleeve nut through hole(which should go through the bolt in the nut). Insert a small nail into the hole, cut it to the required length and rivet it (see photo). Screw three nuts onto the top bolt and solder them to it.
To secure the resulting tool holder to the machine, weld 4 washers of increased diameter to the bottom plate. The holder will be screwed to the profile with screws.
Prime and paint the holder black.
Step 8: Set up and adjust the machine
You may need to adjust the motor height so that the cutter is centered on the workpiece.
It is advisable to replace the foil wound on the motor shaft under the coupling half with a suitable sized soft metal bushing. This will significantly reduce vibrations.
Step 9: Modification of the machine
Over time, it will be possible to make some improvements to your machine. It is recommended to add a second bearing to the front support block.
A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and the drawings similar product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.
Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:
- drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Drive selection required power is one of the most complex tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
- bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;
- tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
- headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
- master and slave centers;
- caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.
Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.
The belt drive for the electric motor is the cheapest and has sufficient characteristics high level reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.
A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.
Helpful advice! When assembling a lathe, choose the type of transmission that will best suit the task at hand. For example, for a mini lathe with your own hands would be better suited installation of the working part directly on the shaft.
Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:
- longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;
- transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
- inclined - movement under different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.
Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.
If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.
Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
The mechanism is assembled in the following order:
- From metal beams and channels the machine frame is assembled. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used to withstand a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal workpieces longer than 50 mm, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
- Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
- The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
- The shaft is being laid. For this purpose, bearings with a large internal diameter are used.
- Lubricating fluid is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
- The pulley and caliper with guides are installed.
- The electric drive is being installed.
In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.
Helpful advice! A metal lathe, assembled by yourself, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. To do this, connect to the electric shaft grinding wheel.
Selecting an electric motor for the machine
The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.
If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from the old one sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.
When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience working with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help with connection from a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.
Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
If you want to save on spare parts and significantly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular one as a drive. electric drill. This one has constructive solution there are a number of advantages:
- Possibility of quick assembly and disassembly of the structure - the drill is easily detached from the frame and can be used for its intended purpose.
- Easy to carry and transport the machine – a good option, if you have to work with metal workpieces in the garage and on the street.
- Savings - the drill not only acts as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use replaceable attachments as a working tool.
Of course, there are also negative aspects to using a drill lathe. How can processing of large parts be possible using this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively small torque and big number rpm Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will significantly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.
Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.
To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.
Helpful advice! The functionality of a lathe based on an electric drill can be significantly expanded by adding various attachments and additional accessories to its design.
Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, then with its help you can quickly and without special effort produce small identical parts.
Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using powerful electric motor strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.
It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If you cannot do without installing a commutator motor, you must install a gearbox along with it to reduce the speed.
The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.
Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, the front and rear centers should be aligned common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
Helpful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, then be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to operate it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.
You should also adhere to following rules security:
- The working tool must be positioned parallel to the surface of the workpiece being processed. Otherwise, it may come off, causing the machine to break down.
- If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
- To protect your eyes from metal shavings and particles, you can build a special shield or simply use safety glasses.
- After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts fall into the motor.
Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.
There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into the part.
In addition, to work with metal parts different lengths You can make a machine with a collapsible base. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design based on regular table or a workbench.
If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.
Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.
Main advantage self-assembly- This is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A homemade machine can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.
Despite a large assortment Factory-made equipment, its use in everyday life is usually inconvenient or impractical. Impressive dimensions (and weight), variety of functions (some of them are unlikely to be in demand by the “home craftsman”) and a number of other points - all this makes you wonder whether it makes sense to spend money on purchasing a metal lathe? Moreover, the price is the cheapest desktop model about 46,800 rubles.
We will look in detail at how to make a lathe from scratch, with our own hands, and then - recommendations on the choice of materials and the procedure for assembling the machine. These are useful tips and examples of drawings, since making something with your own hands is a creative process; therefore, there simply cannot be “hard” standards. The following configuration diagram is just a reminder.
Lathe design for home use It makes sense to simplify it somewhat. Some components can be modernized (modified), and some can be abandoned altogether. For example, complex automation, feedbox with its gears and EMF. And the movable element of the tailstock - the quill - is unlikely to have great importance for a homemade lathe.
Selection of materials
There is a variety of advice, including that for making individual elements The machine can use wood in the form of boards and beams. Argumentation – such an assembly does not represent big problems and is performed relatively quickly.
I would like to note that they will arise, but then, and very noticeable. A “wooden” machine will not last long. Simply put, it will work, but you will have to forget about the accuracy of the operations. A turning model of equipment, even factory-made, requires not only careful adjustment, but also systematic condition monitoring. The slightest change in the geometry of the same slide will lead to the fact that the processing of the part will turn into a “mockery” of the sample. Wood constantly swells and shrinks. What kind of smooth movement of the carriage, coincidence of the center axes, etc. can we talk about? The same applies to the bed. Dynamic loads will quickly lead to loosening of the base (frame, table or other component).
No matter what drawing is used to assemble a household lathe, metal products (pipes, channel or angle) should definitely be used for the manufacture of all structural elements. More complex - yes, more reliable and durable - undoubtedly. All other options are a waste of time and effort.
Machine assembly procedure
Making any mechanism (installation, unit) with your own hands is a creative endeavor. Each master is guided by the range of tasks that he will have to solve with the help of homemade equipment, availability of free space in the garage (shed, outbuilding) and so on. But if you understand the algorithm of actions, then assemble a lathe household use it won't be difficult. Here are some homemade samples.
If the reader is completely satisfied simplest model, and there is no desire to waste time on design, the author suggests paying attention to a machine based on an electric drill. No additional explanation is required here.
It is clear that the functionality of such an installation is limited. Primarily due to the fact that you can only clamp a drill in the chuck. In fact, such a homemade product can be called a lathe conditionally.
But the manufacture of more “serious” equipment is worth looking into in more detail.
Table frame
It is necessary to determine whether the existing workbench (for example, in the garage) can withstand the additional load. If you plan to make a low-power lathe for processing small parts, then a workbench will be enough. When assembling the frame, two points need to be taken into account.
First, you need to weld nickels onto the table legs. If the mobility of the machine is not required, that is, it is not expected to be carried regularly, it makes sense to hollow out it in concrete floor holes, install the frame and fill it with concrete again. The goal is to ensure maximum stability of the structure during the metalworking process.
Secondly, you should not unnecessarily complicate the installation by using a thick steel plate as a tabletop, especially since we are not talking about powerful equipment. It is enough to weld the lathe bed to the frame. Strength will be ensured.
It is necessary to check the compliance of the upper cut of the support frame with the horizontal plane. And only after the structure has been brought back to normal can this working stage be considered completed.
bed
Everything is simple here - welded to size support frame lathe (channel or angle).
Drive unit
Here you have to choose one of two options:
- If it is decided to attach the spindle (clamp, chuck) to the motor shaft, then how to change its speed? And this will have to be done, depending on the hardness of the sample being processed. You can, for example, install a motor from a used electric sewing machine (speed adjustment is provided). Only the power of such a lathe will be minimal, therefore, the possibilities are limited.
- Any electric motor is characterized by the rotational speed of the shaft (rotor). It is clear that regularly replacing the engine with another during operation is impossible. Therefore, you will have to think about how to change the drive gear ratio. The simplest solution is to reinstall the pulley belts attached to the intermediate shaft, that is, use this type of transmission.
“People's craftsmen”, focusing on this technique, make machines with their own hands for 10–12 speeds. Convenience in working with dissimilar materials is ensured, and there is no need to search for components, draw up an automation circuit and assemble it.
There is another argument in favor of this engineering solution. The main force present in machines assembled by hand is along the axis of the shaft. But electric motors of any model are designed for a “perpendicular” load.
If the machine does not have a belt drive, you need to be prepared for frequent repairs. The reason is the destruction of the supporting parts of the engine. It is possible to avoid this, but such modernization requires separate consideration (there are several options) and will significantly complicate the design process.
What to consider when assembling
For such regulation, it is advisable to install a motor with a power in the range of 0.75 - 1.5 kW on a lathe.
It is better not to use collector-type products. The peculiarity of such engines is that when the load decreases (for example, at the moment of retraction of the cutter), the rotor rotation speed increases significantly. The possible result is easy to predict - the workpiece will fly out and the worker will be injured.
As a rule, do-it-yourself lathes are assembled to work with small “blanks” - up to half a meter long and no more than 12 - 14 cm in diameter. For such models, asynchronous motors are considered the best (the recommended power is indicated). The stability of the speed will be ensured, and sudden changes in the rotation speed will be excluded.
Features of the manufacture of other structural elements
It is better (if possible) to take individual components from decommissioned equipment. Even if rework is necessary, it is easier than making it from scratch. Here are some options we will consider.
Sled
Turning from a rod is both difficult and impractical. The strength will not meet the requirements. It's easier to use ready-made elements. For example, shock absorber struts.
Pinol
Often, in homemade lathes, the back stop is fixed. You can use a regular bolt, having previously sharpened the end of its leg.
Tool holder
The author used 2 4 mm metal plates. To ensure that the tool is securely fixed and quickly reinstalled, a threaded axle is welded in the center of the bottom, and a hole of the appropriate diameter is welded in the top. To clamp the cutter - a nut with a “handle”. The distortion of the upper plate when tightening is eliminated, since more holes are drilled in its corners, and welded to the bottom (below them) vertical racks(pieces of rod). As a result, the “clamping” plate moves straight down/up.
When assembling a lathe, it is better to focus on the future. In everyday life, you have to process not only metal blanks, but also other materials - plastics, plexiglass, wood. The conclusion is clear - if you do it yourself turning equipment for home use, you must strive for its versatility. In particular, to the possibility of changing the spindle speed over a wide range.
- wood – 700 – 2,400;
- metal – 85 – 940.
When deciding on the dimensions of a lathe, you should focus on the dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed. Specific recommendations on this point are meaningless, but it’s worth recalling the main parameters of low-power industrial equipment (in mm).
- Length – 1 150.
- Width – 600 – 620.
- The height of the spindle axis is about 180. This will allow processing workpieces with a cross-section of up to 175 mm.
In order for the lathe to be truly “working”, before drawing up its drawing it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics amateur models industrial production. Linear parameters are not the main thing. There are also indicators such as the size of the caliper and the limits of its movement, the distance between centers, feed speed, and so on. This will make the choice much easier optimal option DIY assembly machine.
Particular attention should be paid to the coincidence of the centers of the spindle (chuck) and the quill. They should be connected by a horizontal line. Failure to comply this condition leads to the appearance of backlash and beating of the workpiece during the metalworking process. The result is damage. Bad, but not critical. If you have a lot of hardware on hand, you can replace it. But the prospect of constantly acquiring new incisors (and they are so homemade machine will certainly “fly” and quite often) is unlikely to suit anyone.
During the assembly process, questions will inevitably arise about how best to make “this or that” with your own hands. The author advises, in case of difficulty, to look at photographs of lathes available on the Internet - both factory-made and home-made. An acceptable solution will definitely be found.
Happy designing and metalworking!
A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.
Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:
- drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Selecting a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a regular washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
- bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;
- tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
- headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
- master and slave centers;
- caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.
Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Belt drive for an electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.
A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.
Helpful advice! When assembling a lathe, choose the type of transmission that will best suit the task at hand. For example, for a do-it-yourself mini-lathe, it is better to install the working part directly on the shaft.
Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:
- longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;
- transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
- inclined - movement at different angles to grind recesses on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.
Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.
If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.
Caliper structure: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - transverse slide of the caliper; 4 - rotating part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotating part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for securing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guides of the carriage; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the caliper feed from lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron
Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
The mechanism is assembled in the following order:
- The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used to withstand a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal workpieces longer than 50 mm, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
- Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
- The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
- The shaft is being laid. For this purpose, bearings with a large internal diameter are used.
- Lubricating fluid is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
- The pulley and caliper with guides are installed.
- The electric drive is being installed.
In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.
Helpful advice! A metal lathe, assembled by yourself, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for grinding and polishing metal parts. To do this, a grinding wheel is attached to the electric shaft.
Selecting an electric motor for the machine
The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.
If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from an old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.
When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience working with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help with connection from a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.
Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:
- Possibility of quick assembly and disassembly of the structure - the drill is easily detached from the frame and can be used for its intended purpose.
- The ease of carrying and transporting the machine is a good option if you have to work with metal workpieces in the garage or on the street.
- Savings - the drill not only acts as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use replaceable attachments as a working tool.
Of course, there are also negative aspects to using a drill lathe. How can processing of large parts be possible using this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively low torque and a high number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will significantly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.
Diagram of the device of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support
Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.
To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.
Helpful advice! The functionality of a lathe based on an electric drill can be significantly expanded by adding various attachments and additional accessories to its design.
Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, you can use it to quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.
Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.
It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If you cannot do without installing a commutator motor, you must install a gearbox along with it to reduce the speed.
The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.
Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, with the front and rear centers aligned on a common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
Helpful advice! If you are planning to install a structure based on a powerful electric motor, then be sure to make sure that your electrical network has enough power to operate it. At home, it is better to get by with a motor from household appliances, which will definitely work from the voltage in your outlet.
You should also adhere to the following safety rules:
- The working tool must be positioned parallel to the surface of the workpiece being processed. Otherwise, it may come off, causing the machine to break down.
- If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
- To protect your eyes from metal shavings and particles, you can build a special shield or simply use safety glasses.
- After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts fall into the motor.
Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.
There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into the part.
In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a regular table or workbench.
If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.
Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.
The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. It can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.